Svalbard

Svalbard Highlights

Longyearbyen

Barentsburg

Pyramiden

Ny Alesund

Svalbard

Pop 2573

Why Go?

Svalbard is the Arctic North as you always dreamed it existed. This wondrous archipelago is a land of dramatic snow-drowned peaks and glaciers, of vast ice fields and forbidding icebergs, an elemental place where the seemingly endless Arctic night and the perpetual sunlight of summer carry a deeper kind of magic. One of Europe's last great wildernesses, this is also the domain of more polar bears than people, a terrain rich in epic legends of polar exploration.

Svalbard's main settlement and entry point, scruffy Longyearbyen, is merely a taste of what lies beyond and the possibilities for exploring further are many: boat trips, glacier hikes, and expeditions by snowmobile or led by a team of huskies. Whichever you choose, coming here is like crossing some remote frontier of the mind: Svalbard is as close as most mortals can get to the North Pole and still capture its spirit.

When to Go

• Dec–Feb Deep immersion in the polar night and a winter jazz festival.
• Feb–Apr The light returns with week-long festivities; from late February there's a stunning blue tinge to the light.
• Jun–Aug Days without end and an array of activities in the summer light.

Best Places to Eat

A Huset

A Fruene Kaffe og Vinbar

A Coal Miners' Bar & Grill

A Gruvelageret

A Kroa

Best Places to Stay

A Basecamp Spitsbergen

A Svalbard Hotell & Lodge

A Coal Miners' Cabins

A Radisson Blu Polar Hotel

Svalbard Highlights

1 Hiking Walking out into the Arctic wilderness and onto Longyearbreen glacier under the midnight sun.

2 Dog-sledding Experiencing the polar silence like the explorers of old.

3 Walrus safaris Taking a summer day trip to see walruses on Prins Karls Forlandet.

4 Pyramiden Travelling to this eerily abandoned Soviet outpost and admiring the Nordenskjöldbreen glacier.

5 Ny Ålesund Taking a day trip to this remote settlement surrounded by gorgeous Magdalenefjord.

6 Barentsburg Drinking vodka and Arctic beer on a day trip to this intriguing Russian village.

7 Longyearbyen museums Immersing yourself in the natural and human history of Svalbard.

8 Boat expeditions Circumnavigating Svalbard in search of polar bears in the ultimate Arctic adventure.

9 Longyearbyen restaurants Sampling Arctic cuisine at Gruvelageret, Coal Miners' Bar & Grill and Huset.

History

The first mention of Svalbard occurs in an Icelandic saga from 1194. Officially, however, the Dutch voyager Willem Barents, while in search of a northeast passage to China, is regarded as the first visitor from the European mainland (1596). He named the islands Spitsbergen, or 'sharp mountains'. The Norwegian name, Svalbard, comes from the Old Norse for 'cold coast'. Today Spitsbergen is the name of Svalbard's largest island. In 1920 the Svalbard Treaty granted Norway sovereignty over the islands and restricted military activities. Initially signed by nine nations, it now has over 40 adherents, whose citizens enjoy the same rights and obligations on the islands as Norwegians themselves.

Wildlife

In addition to polar bears, Svalbard is home to other emblematic Arctic species. The species you're most likely to see are the Arctic fox (also known as the polar fox) and Svalbard's unusually squat reindeer.

Svalbard's reindeer are genetically akin to their distant Canadian cousins and some have been found bearing Russian tags, proving that they walked in over the ice. Unlike their cousins on the mainland, they don't live in herds but in family groups of two to six animals. As they have no predators other than humans, they thrive and the estimated population of around 10,000 is kept constant by an annual cull. Most Svalbard reindeer starve slowly to death when they're about eight years old, their teeth having been ground to stumps by the stones and pebbles they mouth along with sprigs of edible matter.

Despite having been hunted to the brink of extinction in centuries past, whales can still be seen on occasion in Svalbard's waters, while seals are also common. Walruses, too, suffered from relentless hunting, although a population of between 500 and 2000 still inhabits Svalbard.

POLAR BEARS UNDER THREAT

Polar bears are one of the most enduring symbols of the Arctic wilderness – loners, immensely strong and survivors in one of the world's most extreme environments. But for all the bears' raw power, some scientists predict that they could be extinct by the end of this century if the world continues to heat up.

Polar bear numbers had been in decline since the late 19th century, when intensive hunting began. But ever since the 1973 treaty for the Conservation of Polar Bears and their Habitat, signed by all the countries whose lands impinge upon the Arctic, polar bear numbers have been gradually increasing again and latest estimates by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) suggest that there are between 22,000 and 31,000 left in the wild; Svalbard has a population of around 3500.

But as is the case throughout the Arctic, Svalbard's glaciers are retreating and the ice sheet, their natural habitat and prime hunting ground for seals, the mainstay of their diet (an adult bear needs to eat between 50 and 75 seals every year), is shrinking. In 2017, a particularly bad year, even most of Svalbard's north coast remained ice-free throughout the winter – one polar bear that was being tracked by the WWF remained stranded on the island of Storøya, off the archipelago's far northeastern coast, after sea ice that usually connects the island to the rest of Svalbard failed to form.

Shrinking sea ice matters because although polar bears are classified as marine mammals and are powerful swimmers, many risk drowning as they attempt to reach fresh ice floes that are ever more separated by open water. Less sea ice also means that some populations will become isolated and inbred, weakening their genetic stock. The birth rate may also fall since females need plenty of deep snow to dig the dens in which they whelp. And hungry bears, on the prowl and desperate for food, could lead to increasing confrontations with humans.

Your chances of seeing one, unless you're on a cruise and observing from the safety of a ship, are minimal, especially in summer. In any event, contact is actively discouraged, both for your and the bear's sake (if a snowmobiler gives chase, for example, he or she will be in for a stiff fine). Bears under pressure quickly become stressed and overheat under their shaggy coats and may even die of heat exhaustion if pursued.

Should you come within sight of one on land, don't even think about approaching it. An altogether safer way to track polar bears is to log onto www.panda.org/polarbears, managed by the WWF. Here, you can track the movements of bears that scientists have equipped with a collar and satellite transmitter.

8Getting There & Away

Unless you're travelling on a boat cruise from the Norwegian mainland, the only way to reach Svalbard is by air, with either SAS or Norwegian, from Tromsø or Oslo. At the time of research, Finnair was negotiating to become the first airline to offer international flights to/from Longyearbyen, but an initial request for summer flights was turned down in 2017 and the earliest such flights may happen appears to be the summer of 2018.

Longyearbyen

Pop 2100

Longyearbyen is like a portal to a magical sub-polar world. Just about every Svalbard experience begins here, but if you came to Svalbard and spent the whole time in Longyearbyen (Svalbard's only town of any size), you'd leave disappointed. That's because although Longyearbyen enjoys a superb backdrop including two glacier tongues, Longyearbreen and Lars Hjertabreen, the town itself is fringed by abandoned mining detritus and the waterfront is anything but beautiful, with shipping containers and industrial buildings. The further you head up the valley towards the glaciers, the more you'll appreciate being here. Even so, Longyearbyen is a place to base yourself for trips out into the wilderness rather than somewhere to linger for its own sake.

History

Although whalers had been present here in previous centuries, the town of Longyearbyen was founded in the early 20th century as a base for Svalbard's coal-mining activities; the town was named after the American John Munro Longyear, who first set up the coal-mining operations here in 1906. For decades, Store Norsk, owner of the pits, possessed the communal mess, company shop, transport in and out, and almost the miners' souls. Then in 1976 the Norwegian state stepped in to bail the company out from bankruptcy. Today most of the few people who live here year-round enjoy one-year tax-free contracts. There are at least seven mines dotted around Longyearbyen and the surrounding area, although only one, Mine No 7, 15km east of town, is still operational. The town's gritty coal-mining roots still show through, commemorated in the statue of a grizzled miner and his pick near the Lompensenteret.

1Sights

oWild Photo GalleryGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %405 17 775; www.wildphoto.com; h10am-4pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours Mar-May, Sep & Oct)F

This gallery of stunning Svalbard photos by Ole Jørgen Liodden and Roy Mangersnes is small but filled with utterly unforgettable images. A book that contains most of the displayed images, Svalbard Exposed, is sold here, and the two photographers run photo expeditions in Svalbard and elsewhere.

Svalbard Global Seed VaultLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.seedvault.no)

Deep inside a mountain, down beneath the permafrost, a vast artificial cavern, already dubbed the Doomsday Vault or a vegetarian Noah's Ark, was opened in 2008. It's a repository with a capacity for up to four million different seed types (and up to 2.25 billion seeds in all), representing the botanical diversity of the planet. Note that casual visitors are not welcome.

Svalbard BryggeriBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %902 86 205; www.svalbardbryggeri.no; guided tour 350kr; hguided tours 6pm Mon, Wed & Sat)

Having opened for business in 2015, Svalbard's very own brewery makes the very quaffable Spitsbergen IPA, Spitsbergen Pilsener and Spitsbergen Pale Ale – 16% of the water used in making their beers comes from the Bogerbreen glacier. They also offer 90-minute guided tours of their operations with free tastings thrown in. Advance reservations are essential and can be made through the tourist office.

North Pole Expedition MuseumMUSEUM

(Spitsbergen Airship Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %957 35 742; www.spitsbergenairshipmuseum.com; adult/child 90/40kr; h10am-5pm)

This fascinating private museum houses a stunning collection of artefacts, original newspapers and other documents relating to the history of polar exploration. There's intriguing archive footage and labels are in English – you could easily spend a couple of hours here reliving some of the Arctic's most stirring tales. It's across the road from the back side of the Svalbard Museum, down near the waterfront.

Svalbard MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 64 92; www.svalbardmuseum.no; adult/student/child 90/50/15kr; h10am-5pm Mar-Sep, noon-5pm Oct-Feb)

Museum is the wrong word for this impressive exhibition space. Themes on display include life on the edge formerly led by whalers, trappers, seal and walrus hunters and, more recently, miners. It's an attractive mix of text, artefacts, and birds and mammals, stuffed and staring. There's a cosy book-browsing area for lounging, too, with sealskin cushions and rugs.

Galleri SvalbardGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 23 40; www.gallerisvalbard.no; adult/concession/child 70/40/20kr; h11am-5pm Mar-Sep, 1-5pm Tue-Sat & 11am-3pm Sun Oct-Feb)

Galleri Svalbard features the Svalbard-themed works of renowned Norwegian artist Kåre Tveter (1922–2012), so pure and cold they make you shiver, as well as works by other artists, such as Olav Storø (www.storoe.no). It also has fascinating reproductions of antique maps of Svalbard, historical drawings with a Svalbard focus and temporary exhibitions. The gallery has a small cafe and an excellent shop.

POLAR BEAR DANGER

Don't let your desire to see Svalbard's symbol, the polar bear, blind you to the fact that a close encounter with this iconic creature rarely ends well. As the signs on the outskirts of Longyearbyen attest, polar bears are a real danger almost everywhere in Svalbard. If you're straying beyond Longyearbyen's confines, you're strongly advised to go with an organised tour. Walk leaders carry guns and know how to use them. Standard equipment too, especially if you're camping, are trip wires with flares and distress flares – to fire at the ground in front of the bear, not to summon help, which could be hours away.

With patterns of polar bear behaviour changing as sea ice levels shrink and tourist numbers increase, close encounters with polar bears are becoming more common. In 2015 a tourist was injured when a bear attacked his tent, while four polar bears were shot in self-defence in 2016 (double the annual average). In one incident, four tourists shot and killed a bear that attacked them while they were skiing in the far north of the archipelago. An investigation found that the tourists had correctly followed all procedures. In another incident, a three-year-old polar bear was sedated and relocated to another part of Svalbard after it was sighted in Longyearbyen.

The last bear fatality was in 2011 in the vicinity of the Von Post glacier, 40km from Longyearbyen. The previous fatality, in 1995, happened only 2km from Longyearbyen.

2Activities

Restrict yourself to Longyearbyen and you'll leave with little sense of the sheer majesty of Svalbard's wilderness. Fortunately, there's a dizzying array of short trips and day tours. The tourist office has an extensive weekly activities list. All outings can be booked through individual operators (directly or via their websites; see also www.svalbard.net).

Also possible are half-day summer excursions with wheeled sleds pulled by pack dogs, horse riding and fat bike excursions.

Summer

Birdwatching

More than 160 bird species have been reported in Svalbard, with the overwhelming number of these present during the summer months; the only species to overwinter in the archipelago is the Svalbard ptarmigan. If you're in Longyearbyen in summer, among the common species you're likely to see are the barnacle goose, king eider, common eider, Arctic tern, purple sandpiper, glaucous gull and snow bunting; the best chance for sighting these species is in the Adventdalen delta southeast of the centre on the road to Mine No 7; the Arctic tern and snow bunting are easily seen on the Longyearbyen outskirts. A little further afield, especially on the boat trips to Barentsburg or Pyramiden, the little auk, black guillemot, puffin and fulmar are among the most commonly sighted species. Some tour operators run short boat trips to the 'bird cliffs' close to Longyearbyen, while birders should buy the booklet Bird Life in Longyearbyen and Surrounding Area (50kr), which is available from the tourist office.

Boat Trips

The range of boat day trips you can undertake to get out into the further reaches of Svalbard is growing with each passing year. Barentsburg and Pyramiden are the most popular with daily departures, but Ny Ålesund is also now within reach.

To Ny Ålesund

At the time of research, two companies were offering day trips to Ny Ålesund, one of the Arctic's best day trips and bringing one of the world's northernmost settlements within reach of the day tripper. Note that they don't operate every day and hence require careful planning.

• Better Moments ( GOOGLE MAP ; %400 95 965; www.bettermoments.no) Friday expeditions (11 hours, 3990kr).
• Spitsbergen Guide Service ( GOOGLE MAP ; %941 70 070; www.spitsbergenguideservice.no) Two to five weekly trips (10 hours, 4150kr).

To Barentsburg & Pyramiden

The most popular boat excursions are to the Russian settlements of Barentsburg and Pyramiden; some stop at glacier tongues along the way (Esmarkbreen for Barentsburg, Nordenskjöldbreen for Pyramiden).

• Arctic Explorer ( GOOGLE MAP ; %954 78 500; www.arcticexplorer.no) Uses fast boats to enable you to visit both Barentsburg and Pyramiden in a single day (2900kr, 11 hours). You'll only get 1½ hours in Barentsburg and 2½ hours in Pyramiden, but you'll see some glorious scenery en route and it's an ideal taste for those with little time.
• Henningsen Transport & Guiding ( GOOGLE MAP ; %918 53 756, 79 02 13 11; www.htg.svalbard.no) Excellent 10-hour summer-only trips to Barentsburg and Pyramiden (1950kr). En route, they tend to sail closer to shore than other companies, rather than sailing down the middle of the fjord.
• Polar Charter ( GOOGLE MAP ; %480 55 700; www.polarcharter.no) Sends out the MS Polargirl to Barentsburg and the Esmark glacier (1700kr, eight to 10 hours, three weekly), and to Pyramiden and Nordenskjöldbreen (1700kr, eight to 10 hours, four weekly); prices include a lunch cooked on board.
• Svalbard Booking ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 50 00; www.svalbardbooking.com) Fjord trips to Pyramiden (1550kr, eight hours) six times a week.

Shorter Boat Excursions

• Basecamp Spitsbergen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 46 00; www.basecampexplorer.com/spitsbergen) Boat safaris to Isfjord Radio (seven hours, 1990kr) from Wednesday to Saturday. They can also arrange three-day expeditions with two nights at this remote spot.
• Henningsen Transport & Guiding Six-hour Friday-evening trips to Yoldiabukta and Wahlenberg glacier for 1550kr.
• Polar Charter Five-hour Friday trips to the Borebreen glacier (1200kr).
• Spitsbergen Travel Daily Isfjord boat trips to Fuglefjella and Hiorthhamn (three hours, 890kr)

Hiking & Fossil Hunting

Summer hiking possibilities are endless and any Svalbard tour company worth its salt can organise half-, full- and multi-day hikes. The easiest options are three-hour fossil-hunting hikes (from 400kr), some of which take you up onto the moraine at the base of the Longyearbreen glacier.

Some popular destinations for other hikes, many of which include glacier hikes, are Platåberget (500kr, three hours); up onto the Longyearbreen glacier itself (750kr, five hours); Sarkofagen (525m above sea level; 690kr, six hours); Trollsteinen via Lars glacier (795kr, six hours); Fuglefjella ( 990kr, seven hours); and Nordensklöldtoppen (990kr, eight hours).

Spitsbergen Outdoor Activities (%917 76 595; www.spitsbergenoutdooractivities.com) and Poli Arctici ( GOOGLE MAP ; %913 83 467, 79 02 17 05; www.poliartici.com) are among the better smaller operators, with numerous options, but all companies can get you out and walking.

Kayaking

Kayaking on Adventfjorden is a popular summer outing. Five-/seven-hour trips start from 850/1050kr, with evening and midnight-sun excursions also possible. Svalbard Wildlife Expeditions ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 22 22; www.wildlife.no), which offers numerous weekly departures, also offers a 10-hour combined kayak and mountain-summit hike four times a week for 1499kr. Spitsbergen Outdoor Activities is the other major kayaking operator, with at least one daily departure.

Walrus Safaris

One of the most exciting new types of tours to hit Svalbard in years, walrus safaris now run to Prins Karls Forlandet (with a glacier stop en route) from mid- or late May to August or mid-September. You can get to within 30m (either on land or at sea) of the great blubbery things lounging on the beach. A warming soup is included in tours prices and both of these companies are excellent:

• Better Moments Four departures weekly (2190kr, seven hours)
• Svalbard Booking Four trips weekly (1990kr to 2390kr, seven hours)

Winter

Basecamp Spitsbergen and Spitsbergen Travel in particular offer some truly epic, multiday cross-country ski expeditions, but it's worth spending time looking at what all of the tour companies have to offer.

Dog-Sledding

The environmentally friendly rival to snowmobiling, dog-sledding is in many ways the iconic Svalbard winter activity – the soundtrack of huskies barking and the scrape of the sled across the ice are a far more agreeable accompaniment in the wilderness than the drone of a snowmobile engine. Expect to pay around 1590kr for a four-hour excursion, although longer expeditions are possible.

Dedicated dog-sledding operators include the following:

• Green Dog Svalbard ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 61 00; www.greendog.no)
• Polardogs Svalbard ( GOOGLE MAP ; %966 59 126; www.polardogssvalbard.com)
• Svalbard Husky ( GOOGLE MAP ; %78 40 30 78; www.svalbardhusky.no)
• Svalbard Villmarkssenter ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 17 00; www.svalbardvillmarkssenter.no)

Snowmobiling

Riding or driving a snowmobile is the main way of getting around Svalbard in winter and it certainly enables you to cover a greater distance and see more than is otherwise possible.

Before setting out, pick up a copy of Driving a Snowmobile in Svalbard from the tourist office. To drive a snowmobile scoot, you'll need to flash your home driving licence. Check with the tourist office; many areas are off-limits for snowmobiles. Daily rates start from 1200kr to 1500kr for the basic model.

Most companies will offer snowmobile safaris. Spitsbergen Travel has a particularly wide range of excursions, while Svalbard Booking offers snowmobile rental.

Sample expeditions (prices may vary between companies) include the following:

• Barentsburg (2400kr, eight hours)
• Coles Bay (1900kr, four hours)
• East coast Spitsbergen (2500kr, 10 hours)
• Elveneset (1900kr, four hours)
• Northern-lights safari (1750kr, three hours)
• Pyramiden (2500kr, 11 hours)
• Von Post glacier (2400kr, eight hours)

TTours

City Sightseeing & Mine Tours

• Gruve-3 Svalbard (%911 65 929; gruve3@snsk.no; adult/child 590/295kr; h9am & 1pm) Coal mining has always been central to the Longyearbyen story. Three-hour tours to Mine No 3 are a sobering experience, heading underground as countless miners have done in the past, and guides will take you through the mining story and give you a feel for what it must have been like to work underground.
• Rana Itinerans (walking tour without/with lunch 450/600kr; h9am, 12.15pm, 3pm & 6pm Sun-Thu, 9am, 12.15pm & 3pm Fri & Sat Jun-Aug) Runs 2½-hour guided Longyearbyen city walks.
• Svalbard Maxi Taxi (%79 02 13 05; www.taxiguiden.no; per person 345kr; h10am & 4pm Jun-Aug) This local taxi company offers two-hour minibus tours that take you further than you might think possible around Longyearbyen. When the weather's fine there are stunning views from a number of the places visited, and you can cover more distance than you would on foot, without needing a gun and guide.

Food & Drink Sightseeing

There are tours and tastings at Longyearbyen's brewery, Svalbard Bryggeri, three times a week, while Karlsberger Pub also offers whisky tastings thrice weekly.

• Arctic Tapas (%46 27 60 00; www.arctictapas.com; per person 895kr; h6.30-9pm Tue, Thu, Fri & Sun) This tour bus with a difference offers a sightseeing tour of Longyearbyen accompanied by an on-board four-course meal with a focus on northern Norwegian produce and specialities – think cheese, trout, salmon, reindeer, herring… There's one free drink included in the cost of the tour.
• Spitsbergen Travel (Hurtigruten Svalbard; GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 61 00; www.spitsbergentravel.com) Offers an Arctic Wilderness Evening at 7pm four nights a week, which includes dinner out in the wilds of Adventdalen, with an informative lecture on polar bears and Spitsbergen history thrown in (1045/500kr per adult/child).

MULTIDAY BOAT CRUISES AROUND SVALBARD

To really get a taste for the inner and outer reaches of Svalbard in a short space of time, there's no better alternative than a multiday coastal boat cruise. They don't come cheap, but these are once-in-a-lifetime journeys. Any of the following run such cruises:

Arctic Wildlife Tours (%958 97 730; www.arcticwildlifetours.com) Wildlife and photography tours to Svalbard aboard specially chartered vessels.

Discover the World (%UK 01737 214 250; www.discovertheworld.co.uk) UK company with cruises that include Iceland, mainland Norway and Spitsbergen.

G Adventures (www.gadventures.com) Eight-day cruises along the Spitsbergen shore.

Hurtigruten (www.hurtigruten.com) A range of cruises including a complete and utterly unforgettable circumnavigation of Svalbard.

Naturetrek (%UK 01962 733051; www.naturetrek.co.uk) Has 10-day Svalbard cruises with a wildlife focus.

Wildfoot Travel (%UK 0800 195 3385; www.wildfoottravel.com) Wildlife-themed five- to 15-night cruises including one that takes in Franz Josef Land and Jan Mayen.

zFestivals & Events

Dark Season BluesMUSIC

(www.svalbardblues.com; hOct)

A five-day jam session to warm you up before the onset of winter and the long months of darkness.

Polar JazzMUSIC

(www.polarjazz.no; hFeb)

A long winter weekend of jazz in the bruise-blue half-light of February.

SunfestCULTURAL

(www.solfest.no; hearly Mar)

Week-long celebrations beginning on 8 March to dispel the polar night.

4Sleeping

Longyearbyen has some excellent accommodation, from the world's northernmost full-service hotel right down to a campground or simpler rooms once used for miners' accommodation. To sleep in a hammock strung out above one of the husky kennels (per person 400kr), contact Svalbard Villmarkssenter.

Longyearbyen CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 10 68; www.longyearbyen-camping.com; campsites per adult/child under 13yr 120kr/free; hApr & Jun-Aug)

Near the airport on a flat stretch of turf, this particularly friendly campground with kitchen and showers overlooks Isfjorden and the glaciers beyond. It's about an hour's walk from town. You can also hire a tent (150kr), mattress (10kr) and sleeping bag (50kr). There are no cabins, but it does issue certificates for those who bathe naked in the fjord…

Coal Miners' CabinsGUESTHOUSE$

(Spitsbergen Guesthouse; GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 63 00; www.spitsbergentravel.no; dm 400kr, s 590-1050kr, d 875-1400kr; hmid-Mar–mid-Sep; W)

This guesthouse is a subsidiary of Spitsbergen Travel and can accommodate up to 136 people. Spread over four buildings (the terrific Coal Miners' Bar & Grill is housed in one), the renovated rooms are simple and generally great value for money, albeit at Norway prices.

Mary-Ann's PolarriggHOTEL, GUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 37 02; www.polarriggen.com; Skjæringa; s 790-1350kr, d 1050-1600kr; W)

Run by the ebullient Mary-Ann and adorned with mining and hunting memorabilia, the Polarrigg brims with character, although most of this is in the public areas; rooms are quite simple. In the main wing, rooms have corridor bathrooms and doubles come with bunk beds. There are two large, comfortably furnished lounges, while in the smart, if somewhat overpriced, annexe, rooms have every comfort.

oSvalbard Hotell & LodgeHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 50 00; www.svalbardbooking.com/Accommodation/Svalbard-Hotell; s/d/apt from 1790/1990/2250kr; W)

Svalbard Hotell & Lodge offers stylish rooms with dark Scandinavian wood tones offset by stunning large photos above the beds and splashes of colour in the linens. There are flat-screen TVs, and you couldn't be more centrally located for the main shops and restaurants of Longyearbyen. The two- and three-bedroom apartments, known as Svalbard Lodge, are similarly outstanding.

Watch for their new Elvesletta designer property, due to open nearby in 2018.

oBasecamp SpitsbergenLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 46 00; www.basecampexplorer.com; s 1150-2600kr, d 1600-3000kr; W)

Imagine a recreated sealing hut, built in part from recycled driftwood and local slate. Add artefacts and decorations culled from the local refuse dump and mining cast-offs. Graft on 21st-century plumbing and design flair and you've got this fabulous place, also known as Trapper's Lodge. The 16 cabin-like rooms are the definition of cosiness and comfort, and the breakfasts are splendid.

Radisson Blu Polar HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 34 50; www.radissonblu.com/en/hotel-spitsbergen; s 1390-3100kr, d 1690-3400kr, ste from 2800kr; W)

This 95-room chain hotel ('the world's northernmost full-service hotel') is the town's premier address, although the rooms are functional and extremely comfortable rather than luxurious; the suites in the neighbouring annexe are nicer. It costs 200kr extra for a 'superior room' with partial views of the fjord and Hiorthfjellet mountain beyond, and a coffee machine.

Spitsbergen HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 62 00; www.spitsbergentravel.com/start/accommodation/spitsbergen-hotel; r from 1611kr; hFeb-Oct; W)

This comfortable place (sink yourself low into the leather armchairs of its salon) is where the mine bosses once lived. Rooms are comfortable, with a vaguely old-world air, while public areas are adorned with memorabilia from Longyearbyen's past.

BOOTS OFF PLEASE!

Reflecting the days when miners would remove their coal-dust-encrusted boots at the threshold, local decorum still dictates that people take off their shoes upon entering most buildings in town. Exceptions include the majority of shops and places to eat, although many hotels still maintain the practice. We're pleased to report that guns must also be left at the door just about everywhere.

5Eating

Longyearbyen's eating scene gets better with each passing year, ranging from agreeable and informal pub restaurants to temples of high gastronomy. In addition to the stand-alone establishments, there are good restaurants in the Spitsbergen Hotel and Svalbard Hotell & Lodge. The excellent guided tour with Arctic Tapas will also appeal to foodies looking for a different dining experience.

oFruene Kaffe og VinbarCAFE$

(The Missus; GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 76 40; Lompensenteret; lunch mains 45-89kr; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; W)

'The Missus' is a welcoming and popular cafe, serving decent coffee, baguettes, pizza, snacks and other light meals. There's free wi-fi, the walls are adorned with stunning photography and the food's good – lunch specials usually include a soup or a salad. The soups are particularly outstanding.

oCoal Miners' Bar & GrillNORWEGIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 63 00; www.spitsbergentravel.com/start/food/coal-miners-bar-grill; mains from 199kr; hkitchen 3-10pm)

A renovation of this former mining mess hall has transformed it into one of Longyearbyen's coolest venues. There's warming decor, fabulous charcoal-grilled meals (the spare ribs and burgers are excellent) and the humming backdrop of a happy crowd that often hangs around to drink long after the kitchen closes; they throw people out at midnight (1am on Friday and Saturday).

oHusetNORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 50 02; www.huset.com; bistro mains 150-220kr, restaurant mains 295-369kr, Nordic Tasting Menu 900-1100kr; hbistro 4-10pm Sun-Fri, 2-10pm Sat, restaurant 7-10pm Tue-Sun)

It's something of a walk up here but it's worth it. Dining in the bistro is casual, with well-priced dishes such as reindeer burgers or reindeer stew with lingonberries on the menu. Its signature dish is the coal-grilled hamburger (160kr) – a meaty burger with all the trimmings, so juicy, we're told, that lonely scientists in their tents dream of it.

In the same building, the highly regarded restaurant serves up dishes such as terrine of Svalbard reindeer, fillet of reindeer and quail. Its wine cellar has over 20,000 bottles. The Nordic Tasting Menu takes in everything from Isfjord cod and bearded seal to Svalbard reindeer sausage and common eider egg.

Mary-Ann's PolarriggTHAI, NORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 37 02; www.polarriggen.com; Skjæringa; mains 175-345kr; h4-10pm)

This excellent restaurant offers up spicy Asian rice dishes in a wonderful glasshouse setting, festooned with living plants that, unlike their native Svalbard counterparts, entwine and climb much more than 2cm high. Also served are some local Norwegian specialities, including Svalbard reindeer or seal steak.

KroaNORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 13 00; www.kroa-svalbard.no; mains lunch 106-161kr, dinner 159-269kr; h11.30am-2am)

This pub restaurant was reconstructed from the elements of a building brought in from Russian Barentsburg (the giant white bust of Lenin peeking from behind the bar gives a clue), and it feels like a supremely comfortable and spacious trapper's cabin. Service is friendly and mains verge on the gargantuan. Dishes range from pepper steak and butter chicken to Arctic char carpaccio.

oGruvelageretNEW NORDIC, INTERNATIONAL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 20 00; www.gruvelageret.no/en; 4-course set menu 895kr; h6-10pm)

Opened in the winter of 2015, Gruvelageret occupies a stunningly converted wooden mining warehouse and serves up an exceptional set menu that begins with Atlantic salmon, moves on to borscht soup and reindeer fillet before climaxing with the gorgeous 'crushed cheesecake'. The location, high on a hill deep in the valley, is as splendid as the food.

Advance reservations are essential and payment is by credit card only.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Although alcohol is duty-free in Svalbard, it's rationed for locals and visitors must present an onward airline ticket to buy beer and spirits (not wine). The booze outet Nordpolet ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 25 34; www.svalbardbutikken.no/no/vareutvalg/nordpolet; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) is at the back of the Coop Supermarket; 'XO Svalbard Cognac' makes an original gift.

Longyearbyen has its own brewery, Svalbard Bryggeri, while Basecamp Spitsbergen has a stunning, glass-roofed 'Cognac Loft', perfect for watching the winter Northern Lights (guests only, but this may be relaxed when things are quiet).

Karlsberger PubBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 20 00; www.karlsbergerpub.no; Lompensenteret; h5pm-2am Sun-Fri, 3pm-2am Sat)

Enter this place, put on your shades and be dazzled at the sight of over 1000 bottles of whisky, brandy and sundry spirits shimmering behind the bar at this snug pub. They also serve pub meals. Ask about their whisky tastings (595kr per person), which happen at the dangerous time of 5pm (where do you go from there?) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

HusetBAR, CLUB

(The House; GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 50 02; www.huset.com; hbar 4-11pm Mon-Sat, 2-11pm Sun, nightclub 10pm-4am Fri & Sat)

Huset is your all-purpose night spot, with a bar and nightclub (cover charge 100kr) where live acts take to the stage on weekends. The wine cellar here has a staggering 20,000 bottles and is one of Scandinavia's best – tastings can be arranged with advance reservations.

KroaBAR

(The Pub; GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 13 00; www.kroa-svalbard.no; h11.30am-2am)

Bustling Kroa, with metal bar stools fashioned from old mine stanchions and sealskin rugs, is enduringly popular and blurs the line between restaurant and bar in a most agreeable way.

SvalbarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 50 03; www.svalbar.no; h11am-2am Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri-Sun)

Svalbar is your fairly standard Norwegian bar with a dartboard, billiard table, and small menu of food until 11pm. It's popular with a younger crowd.

ICEBERG WATER

Relatively new to the list of Svalbard souvenirs, Svalbarði (www.svalbardi.com) is such a quintessentially Svalbard product that we wonder why no one thought of it until now – premium drinking water from Svalbard glaciers. It all began back in 2013 when Norwegian-American Jamal Qureshi took some glacier meltwater to his wife as a gift, and the idea was born of marketing Svalbard's purest commodity – pure water that has spent thousands of years inside the pristine glaciers of Kongsfjorden. Packaged in designer bottles, Svalbarði can be bought for around 400kr at a number of shops around Svalbard, or online with worldwide shipping.

7Shopping

GullgruvaJEWELLERY, CLOTHING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 18 16; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)

A cut above many other souvenir outlets in town, Gullgruva puts Arctic designs at the heart of everything they do, from the tasteful polar-bear-themed jewellery to Svalbard-themed clothing.

SvalbardbutikkenDEPARTMENT STORE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 25 20; www.svalbardbutikken.no; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 3-6pm Sun)

Part supermarket, part department store and with a small but decent selection of local souvenirs, Svalbardbutikken is Longyearbyen's catch-all shopping experience.

SkinnbodenCLOTHING, ARTS & CRAFTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 10 88; www.skinnboden.no; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, noon-3pm Sun)

The range of 'Arctic Products' at this place is something of a catch-all for all manner of rather unusual products – reindeer-skin boots, sealskin gloves, hats and vests, and even rugs made from the pelts of musk ox and other Arctic creatures. It also has a small range of jewellery. It won't be everyone's cup of tea, but at least it's different.

8Information

Medical Services

Apotek 1 Spitsbergen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 12 12; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Pharmacy.

Longyearbyen Sykehus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 42 00) The town's hospital.

Tourist Information

Sysselmannen På Svalbard ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 43 00; www.sysselmannen.no; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) For independent hiking and gun permits.

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %79 02 55 50; www.visitsvalbard.com; h10am-5pm May-Sep, noon-5pm Oct-Apr) Produces a helpful weekly activities list and has other information about the Svalbard archipelago.

8Getting There & Away

SAS (www.flysas.com) flies from Longyearbyen to/from Oslo directly in summer (three flights weekly) or via Tromsø (three to five times weekly) year-round.

Norwegian (www.norwegian.com) also flies three times a week between Oslo Gardermoen and Longyearbyen.

To/From the Airport

The airport bus Svalbard Busservice (%79 02 10 52; www.svalbardbuss.no/flybussen; adult/student/child 75/50/25kr) meets arriving and departing planes and takes passengers to hotels around town. Otherwise, Svalbard Maxi Taxi (%79 02 13 05) and Longyearbyen Taxi (%79 02 13 75) charge 120kr to 150kr for the journey between town and airport.

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Bicycles can be rented for between 150kr and 350kr from Poli Arctici or Basecamp Spitsbergen and various other, well-signposted outlets around town. Street bikes (no off-roading) are available for those staying at Longyearbyen Camping.

Car & Motorcycle

You can't go that far by car, but Arctic Autorent ( GOOGLE MAP ; %917 02 258; www.autorent.no; per day 890-1050kr), with an office in the airport arrivals hall, can get you your own set of wheels.

WORTH A TRIP

AROUND SVALBARD

oMagdalenefjordBAY

( GOOGLE MAP )

The lovely blue-green bay of Magdalenefjord in Nordvest Spitsbergen, flanked by towering peaks and intimidating tidewater glaciers, is the most popular anchorage along Spitsbergen's western coast and is one of Svalbard's prettiest corners. If you catch it on a sunny day (or a moody one with atmospheric storm clouds lurking), you'll think you've wandered into some Arctic paradise. Most visitors come as part of a multiday cruise.

oKrossfjordenBAY

( GOOGLE MAP )

This 30km-long fjord north of Ny Ålesund is a popular detour for cruise ships, partly for the scenic beauty of Lillehöökbreen (its grand tidewater glacier), but also for the abundance of cultural relics scattered around the shores – the first whaling station on Spitsbergen was established here in 1611. Despite being so far north, as with Ny Ålesund, much of the fjord's shore is free of snow in summer.

VirgohamnaBAY

( GOOGLE MAP )

One of the most intriguing sites in northwest Spitsbergen is Virgohamna, on the bleak, gravelly island of Danskøya, where the remains of several broken dreams now lie scattered across the lonely beach. Among them are the ruins of three blubber stoves from a 17th-century whaling station and eight stone-covered graves from the same era. You'll also find the remains of a cottage built by English adventurer Arnold Pike, who sailed north and spent a winter subsisting on polar bears and reindeer.

Prins Karls ForlandetISLAND, NATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

On the west coast of Spitsbergen, the oddly shaped, 86km-long, 11km-wide island of Prins Karls Forlandet is a national park set aside to protect breeding walruses, seals and sea lions. The alpine northern reaches, which rise to Grampianfjellet (1084m), are connected to Saltfjellet (430m), at the southern end, by a long, pancake-flat plain called Forlandsletta.

Barentsburg

Pop 471

Visiting the Russian mining settlement of Barentsburg is like stumbling upon a forgotten outpost of the Soviet Union somewhere close to the end of the earth. Although efforts are being made to spruce it up, the bleakness of its Soviet-era architecture in the icy north still seems like a grim evocation of Arctic Siberia.

The first thing you see upon arrival is its power-station chimney, belching dark black smoke into the blue sky. This isolated village continues to mine coal against all odds and still produces up to 350,000 tonnes per year – the seam is predicted to last until around 2030. With its signing in Cyrillic script, still-standing bust of Lenin, murals of muscled workers in heroic pose and a rundown and dishevelled air, Barentsburg is a wonderfully retro Soviet time warp.

History

Barentsburg, on Grønfjorden, was first identified as a coal-producing area around 1900, when the Kullkompaniet Isefjord Spitsbergen started operations. Several other companies also sank shafts and in 1920 the town was founded by the Dutch company Nespico; 12 years later it passed to the Soviet Trust Arktikugol.

Barentsburg, like Longyearbyen, was partially destroyed by the British Royal Navy in 1941 to prevent it falling into Nazi hands (ironically, the German navy itself finished the job later). In 1948 it was rebuilt by Trust Arktikugol and embarked on a period of growth, development and scientific research that lasted until the fall of the Soviet Union.

Barentsburg, like every other pit on Svalbard, has known tragedy. In 1996 many of those who perished in a plane crash during a blizzard near Adventdalen were miners' families from Ukraine. A year later 23 miners died in a mine explosion and fire.

4Sleeping

Pomor HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %941 30 128; www.goarctica.com; s/d/tr 500/600/800kr; W)

This simple place was renovated in 2015 and has unadorned but tidy rooms that have a slightly institutional feel but are well priced. Some have fine views of the surrounding mountains. The hostel is a cheaper alternative to the Barentsburg Hotel. The Red Bear Pub & Brewery across the road is good for meals and drinks.

Barentsburg HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %941 30 128; www.goarctica.com; s/d/ste 800/1000/1200kr; W)

The Barentsburg Hotel has reasonable rooms that are, like Barentsburg itself, a fine evocation of former Soviet times. Despite the old-fashioned decor, the rooms were renovated in 2013 and make for a comfortable and atmospheric stay.

The restaurant serves traditional Russian meals, featuring such specialities as boiled pork with potatoes and Arctic sorrel, parsley and sour cream. Breakfast/lunch/dinner costs 150/250/200kr.

Bookings in advance for both rooms and meals are essential. In the bar you can enjoy a deliciously affordable and generous slug of vodka or a Russian beer, as well as live music on Friday and Saturday evenings. It also sells large tins of the Real McCoy caviar at prices you'll never find elsewhere in the West, let alone Norway.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Red Bear Pub & BreweryBREWERY, PUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-10pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

The locally brewed beer (using pure glacier water) is the big attraction here, but they also serve meals (breakfast/lunch/dinner 150/250/200kr), and they do a rather quaint 'Sweet Saturday' with homemade ice cream, milkshakes and baked goodies.

8Getting There & Away

Three companies offer summertime boat excursions to Barentsburg from Longyearbyen – Arctic Explorer, Henningsen Transport & Guiding and Polar Charter. The Henningsen Transport & Guiding and Polar Charter boats head across the fjord to the vast Esmark glacier on the homeward journey, while Arctic Explorer offers a faster boat and enables you to visit Pyramiden on the same day. The price includes a couple of hours in Barentsburg, mostly occupied by a guided tour.

In winter, it's possible to travel between Longyearbyen and Barentsburg as part of a snowmobile safari. Spitsbergen Travel is one of many operators offering this excursion.

Pyramiden

Pop 4–15

Formerly Russia's second settlement in Svalbard, Pyramiden, named for the pyramid-shaped mountain that rises nearby, is a rewarding day trip from Longyearbyen, although you can now stay overnight for the full isolation experience.

A skeleton staff of Russians still lives at Pyramiden to keep the flag flying, and the reopening of a couple of places to stay has breathed a little life into the settlement, although it remains a largely empty and poignant Arctic outpost. The combination of astonishing beauty (Nordenskjöldbreen, one of Svalbard's most dramatic glaciers, is just across the water), the busts of Lenin, towering Soviet exhortations to defend the motherland and the relics of coal-mining operations tumbling down hillsides is a very Svalbard scene. Staggering beauty scarred by a one-time industrial wasteland make for a jarring juxtaposition of the pristine with the post-apocalyptic.

History

In the mid-1910s coal was discovered here and operations were set up by the same Swedish concern that exploited Sveagruva. In 1926 it was taken over by a Soviet firm, Russkiy Grumant, which sold out to the Soviet Trust Arktikugol, exploiters of Barentsburg, in 1931. In the 1950s there were as many as 2500 Russian residents, exceeding the population of Longyearbyen today. During its productive heyday in the early 1990s it had 60km of shafts, 130 homes, agricultural enterprises similar to those in Barentsburg and the world's most northerly hotel and swimming pool. But with the mine no longer yielding enough coal to be profitable and with Russia not willing or able to subsidise the mine, Pyramiden was abandoned in 1998.

1Sights

Focal points for your walk around town are the 1970s-era Soviet architecture, a prominent bust of Lenin and the sports hall. There's a small hotel shop selling a small selection of Soviet memorabilia and a bar serving vodka shots.

Across Billefjorden to the east, Nordenskjöldbreen is a stunning glacier running as a broad front from the Svalbard interior to the fjord shoreline; most boat excursions from Longyearbyen draw near for photos. The boat journey itself from Longyearbyen is a splendid trip, passing striated cliffs and accompanied by puffins and fulmar.

4Sleeping

Pier HostelHOSTEL$

(Pyramiden Container; GOOGLE MAP ; %941 30 128; www.goarctica.com; dm 300kr; hMar-Oct)

Sleeping in a shipping container somehow captures the industrial spirit of Pyramiden. Indeed, it doesn't come much simpler than the 12 bunk beds in these three converted containers down by the port – as their own publicity states, the place isn't really romantic, but the views across the fjord more than compensate.

Tulpan HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %941 30 128; www.goarctica.com; s 800-1000kr, tw 1000-1200kr, ste 1500kr)

The Tulpan Hotel is a wonderful throwback to another age. Modern rooms are comfortable but unremarkable, though waking up in the cheaper and faithfully preserved 'Soviet-style' rooms will have you wondering if the Iron Curtain ever really lifted. And the sense of silence right outside your window once the day trippers return to Longyearbyen is so pure as to be unnerving.

There's an on-site restaurant (advance reservations required) serving Russian specialities – both set menus (meals 150kr to 250kr) and à la carte choices are available.

Note that payment is in cash only and there's no wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

In summer, four Longyearbyen-based tour agencies offer a range of day cruises to Pyramiden – Arctic Explorer, Henningsen Transport & Guiding, Polar Charter and Svalbard Booking.

In winter, snowmobile safaris between Longyearbyen and Pyramiden are possible.

Ny Ålesund

Pop 30–130

Despite its inhospitable latitude (79°N), you'd be hard pressed to find a more awesome backdrop anywhere on earth than the scientific post of Ny Ålesund, 107km northwest of Longyearbyen. Ny Ålesund likes to claim that it's the world's northernmost permanently inhabited civilian community (although you could make a case for three other equally minuscule spots in Russia and Canada). There's a hardy year-round population of around 30 scientists, rising to 130 in summer (never more as that's the number of beds available) as researchers from about 15 countries fly in.

With day visits from Longyearbyen now possible in summer, a visit to Ny Ålesund is no longer the sole preserve of cruise-ship passengers, and a visit here somehow captures Svalbard's otherworldliness, most notably its remoteness, its resilient human footholds and its natural power and beauty.

1Sights

Mine MuseumMUSEUM

(Gruvemuseum; GOOGLE MAP ; donation suggested; h24hr)

Ny Ålesund's neat little Mine Museum is in the old Tiedemann's Tabak (tobacco) shop. It recounts the coal-mining history of the area – it's a simple but pleasing affair with a good mix of artefacts and information panels.

BLOMSTRANDHALVØYA

Gravelly Blomstrandhalvøya was once a peninsula, but in the early 1990s it was released from the icy grip on its northern end and it's now an island. In summer the name Blomstrand, or 'flower beach', would be appropriate, but it was in fact named for a Norwegian geologist. Ny London, at the southern end of the island, recalls one Ernest Mansfield of the Northern Exploration Company who attempted to quarry marble in 1911 only to discover that the stone had been rendered worthless by aeons of freezing and thawing. A couple of buildings and some forlorn machinery remain.

8Getting There & Away

Although there is a small airstrip here, it's solely for visiting scientists, and the only way to reach Ny Ålesund is on a summer cruise ship or day-trip boat excursion from Longyearbyen.