aerial view of New Haven
New Haven and the Connecticut Coast
Silver Sands State Park Beach.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Yale University Campus: Spend an Ivy League afternoon—or week—in the university’s wonderful museums, which range from natural history to British art (click here).
S Paddling the Thimble Islands: Keep your eyes peeled for pirate gold as you explore the tiny islets that speckle Long Island Sound (click here).
S Silver Sands State Park: Take time to wander the expansive salt marshes and dunes, but the beach is the real draw here, with gorgeous sand that invites lazy days by the water (click here).
S Mystic Seaport Museum: Step into the life of a 19th-century seafaring community at this living museum, where you can hoist a sail, meet costumed interpreters, or belt out a sea shanty (click here).
S Mashantucket Pequot Museum & Research Center: The foremost Native American research institute in New England is also a fascinating museum (click here).
Though often overshadowed by its showstopping neighbors, the “land of steady habits” is full of quirky surprises—don’t make the mistake of dismissing Connecticut as an extended New York suburb. Drive the state’s scenic coastal road and you’ll find dreamy beaches, old-fashioned fishing villages, and an archipelago of tiny islands scattered across Long Island Sound. Head inland to discover a landscape of farms, fields, and forests, then explore New England’s native cultures at the Mashantucket Pequot Museum & Research Center.
Of all the states in New England, Connecticut embodies the greatest contrasts, and nowhere is that more apparent than in the eastern part of the state, which is home to big cities, rural farm country, and the state’s largest tourist attractions: Mystic Seaport and a pair of behemoth casinos. East of the Connecticut River, the state looks more toward New England than New York, and much of the land here is—or was—devoted to farming. The remnants of stone walls and foundations are still visible through the trees in land that has been slowly reclaimed by forest.
If you have just one day to spend in eastern Connecticut, head straight to the historic shipbuilding center of Mystic. The reconstructed 19th-century community of Mystic Seaport is among New England’s top historical attractions, and one of the best maritime museums anywhere. With a bit more time, spend several days along the southeast coastline, exploring the salty city of New London and the historic village of Stonington.
For a taste of Connecticut’s high culture, overnight in the revitalized university city of New Haven, home to Yale’s gorgeous campus and fine museums. The jewel in its crown is the highly acclaimed Yale Center for British Art. After a day or two in New Haven, give yourself another two or three days to drive down the coast.
And while the northeastern Quiet Corner offers few formal attractions, it would be easy to while away a few days there, relaxing with long looping bike rides through dairy farms and picking your own apples at country orchards.
Visitors flock to Connecticut’s coastal towns for colonial architecture, antiques stores, and restaurants serving freshly caught seafood with local flair. Beaches and clam shacks are big summer draws here, and the coast’s sandy edges fill with umbrellas through the warm months. Though it lacks the high drama of northern New England maple forests, this part of Connecticut is dreamy in autumn, when the gently changing colors make a picturesque contrast with the flanking ocean.
Some of the earliest areas in the United States to be settled by Europeans are along this stretch, and many towns have historical societies that preserve local architectural heritage. The nerve center of the coast, though, is the grown-up college town of New Haven. The town was founded in 1638, and Yale accepted its first students in 1701, establishing the roots of one of America’s most elite institutions. Even if you’re not enrolling, Yale’s museums and campus are worthwhile destinations, and the city’s distinctive pizza merits a side trip for aficionados.
The Gateway to New England, Greenwich is the first place you’ll reach when crossing over the New York border. Founded in 1640, it has a long history of prosperity, attracting scions of industry who leveraged a busy port and business-friendly proximity to New York City. While Greenwich is known for mansions built on rolling lawns, high-end stores, and restaurants, the town has more history and culture than it’s often credited with, including a destination-worthy museum and rousing polo matches. And since philanthropy is a thriving and competitive sport here, it’s worth checking local listings for events, which can include high-profile speakers.
The Bruce Museum (1 Museum Dr., 203/869-0376, www.brucemuseum.org, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun., $10 adults, $8 ages 5-22 and 65 and older, children under 5 free) is an art, science, and natural history museum with a permanent collection that includes everything from a Native American wigwam to glow-in-the-dark geodes; rotating exhibitions feature well-known artists such as Andy Warhol, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Alfred Sisley. There’s a great playground across the street.
The circa 1730 Bush-Holley Historic Site (39 Strickland Rd., 203/869-6899, www.greenwichhistory.org, $10 adults, $8 seniors, children under 18 free) started as a merchant home and later became the site of the first American impressionist art colony. The story of both eras is on display at the fascinating site, which is part of the campus of the Greenwich Historical Society, which also operates an art gallery with rotating exhibitions.
If your taste is contemporary art, schedule a visit to the Brant Foundation Art Study Center (941 North St., 203/869-0611, www.brantfoundation.org, 10am-4pm Mon.-Fri. by appointment only, free), a small by-appointment-only museum on the gorgeous property of billionaire Peter Brant, the art collector, publisher of Interview, and polo player (see Events section).
The New England version of Rodeo Drive, a stroll down Greenwich Avenue from West Putnam Avenue to Railroad Avenue takes you past retailers like Lilly Pulitzer and Saks Fifth Avenue as well as homegrown stores such as Hoagland’s and Vineyard Vines, with restaurants and cafés throughout.
If you’re visiting on a Sunday afternoon in June, July, or September, try to catch a polo match at the Greenwich Polo Club (1 Hurlingham Dr., 203/561-1639, www.greenwichpoloclub.org, $40 per car), a spectacular site for high-goal polo. Bring your own picnic, purchase snacks from food vendors, or buy a VIP ticket for reserved space and other amenities. Other events include Art to the Avenue in May, June’s Greenwich International Film Festival, and the Antiquarius Holiday House Tour (a once-a-year opportunity to tour private homes) and the Greenwich Reindeer Festival, both in December. For other events, check www.greenwichsentinel.com.
On Greenwich Avenue, the casual Pasta Vera (48 Greenwich Ave., 203/661-9705, www.pastavera.com, 8am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-9pm Sun., $13-27) has stood the test of time amid frequent turnover. A display case of prepared food is available in front, yet the restaurant menu has sophisticated options such as misto di mare, a seafood stew with shrimp, scallops, and salmon, along with a wide range of inventive salads.
Just off the main drag, Elm Street Oyster House (11 W. Elm St., 203/629-5795, www.elmstreetoysterhouse.com, 11:30am-9:30pm Sun.-Tues., 11:30am-10pm Wed.-Thurs., 11:30am-10:30pm Fri.-Sat., $16-38) is a gem of a spot that—no surprise—specializes in seafood, with lots of sunlight and cheerful decor. If you want to rest your feet after some serious Greenwich Avenue shopping, sidle up to the marble-topped bar (where you’ll sit under the gaze of John Singer Sargent’s Portrait of Madame X), relax with an oyster sampler and a cold Sancerre, or try dishes like wasabi- and sesame-crusted yellowfin tuna.
For an elegant evening, Thomas Henkelmann (420 Field Point Rd., 203/869-7500, www.homesteadinn.com/thomas-henkelmann.php, noon-2:30pm and 6pm-9:30pm Tues.-Fri., 5:45pm-9:30pm Sat., $38-47) combines contemporary French cuisine with white-glove service. Earning four stars from the New York Times and snagging Relais and Châteaux’s Grand Chef award, Henkelmann is known for classics like sweetbreads in a Périgord black truffle sauce, and rabbit baked with foie gras and picholine olives.
Brunch in the pretty atrium at the Hyatt Regency Greenwich (1800 E. Putnam Ave., 203/637-1234, http://greenwich.regency.hyatt.com, $142-224) draws nonguests, as do this large hotel’s many corporate and social events. Built on the site of the former Condé Nast publishing plant, the Hyatt has several wings and an indoor pool.
Those who appreciate modern design gravitate toward J House (1114 E. Putnam Ave., 203/698-6980, www.jhousegreenwich.com, $209-229), with its sleek lines and minimalist decor. A popular indoor/outdoor bar, which hosts occasional live music and DJs, is as much of a city “scene” as one gets in these parts.
Right on Long Island Sound at the bottom of Greenwich Avenue is the Delamar (500 Steamboat Rd., 203/661-9800, www.delamar.com/greenwich, $309-329), a sophisticated property with a waterfront restaurant and spa. Classic and contemporary decor blend seamlessly, resulting in appeal to a wide variety of guests.
You’ll find boutiques and cafés in Norwalk’s redeveloped and trendy South Norwalk neighborhood, which comes alive as people get late-night snacks and range from bar to bar. The area, dubbed SoNo, is only a few blocks long, but the sprawling city of Norwalk includes attractive residential neighborhoods, manufacturing plants, and strip malls lined with big-box stores. Visitors are more likely to pause for the aquarium and museum, two of the coast’s most appealing destinations for families with small children.
For a regional attraction, the Maritime Aquarium (10 N. Water St., 203/852-0700, http://maritimeaquarium.org, 10am-6pm daily July-Aug., 10am-5pm daily Sept.-June, $22.95 adults, $20.95 children 13-17 and seniors 65 and above, $15.95 children 3-12) impresses with sharks, both a ray and jellyfish touch pool, and a few profoundly adorable meerkats. The aquarium also operates an IMAX theater and harbor cruises that focus on the natural history of the area.
A favorite with the preschool crowd, Stepping Stones Museum for Children (303 West Ave., 203/899-0606, www.steppingstonesmuseum.org, 10am-5pm daily June-Aug., 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun. Sept.-May, $15 adults and children, $10 seniors over 62, free active military and infants under 1 year) has an indoor water-play area, a seasonal miniature train ride, and a separate location for toddlers to explore, ride the mini school bus, and play dress up. At the back of the parking lot and not affiliated with the museum, Devon’s Place Playground has equipment for both younger and older kids as well as a seasonal, outdoor water splash pad.
With a patio of picnic tables overlooking Norwalk Harbor, SoNo Seaport Seafood (100 Water St., 203/854-9483, sonoseaportseafood.com, 11am-10pm daily summer, 11am-9pm daily winter, $8-26) is a classic go-to spot in the summer for New England-style seafood. There’s indoor seating as well so people can get their fix of fried clams, soft shell crabs, shrimp, and oysters year-round. In addition to fried specialties, the menu offers blackened shrimp salad, lobster potpie, and Alaskan king crab legs.
Get your fill of shrimp and grits or chicken and waffles at Beach House SoNo (19 N. Water St., 203/956-7171, www.beachhousesono.com, 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-10:30pm Fri., 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-10:30pm Sat., 10:30am-5pm Sun., $12-29), which also serves more refined options, like crackling duck with carrot-ginger purée. Brunch draws crowds for pitchers of bacon-infused Bloody Marys and eggs Benedict with a Southern twist.
You can make a meal of the small plates at The Spread (70 N. Main St., 203/939-1111, www.thespreadsono.com, 5pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 5pm-11pm Fri.-Sat., 11am-4pm and 5pm-10pm Sun., $17-36), a lively restaurant and bar with an industrial-chic vibe. Mexican-born chef Carlos Baez trained in top Connecticut seafood restaurants and combines those influences into vibrant dishes like grilled Portuguese octopus with chorizo topped with cotija cheese.
A sleepy, leafy, New York City suburb, compact New Canaan is less cosmopolitan than Greenwich or Norwalk. In the tidy, walkable town center there’s a selection of restaurants and coffee shops, shops, and a theater, but the quiet town has some surprising finds. Both the Philip Johnson Glass House and Grace Farms are pilgrimage places for architecture buffs, with modern design that melds with the bucolic scenery.
This suburban town seems an unlikely vanguard for modernist architecture, but this is where the renowned architect Philip Johnson built his groundbreaking Glass House in 1949. Operated by the National Trust for Historic Preservation since Johnson’s death in 2005, the Philip Johnson Glass House (Visitor Center, 199 Elm St., 203/594-9884, www.theglasshouse.org, 9:45am-2:30pm Thurs.-Mon. May-Nov., 1-hour tour $25, 3-hour tour $100 weekdays, $120 weekends) is fascinating to explore. Tours, which take in the house, landscape design, and the sculpture and art sprinkled throughout the property, depart from the visitor center in downtown New Canaan.
Also featuring sublime glass architecture, Grace Farms (365 Lukes Wood Rd., 203/920-1702, www.gracefarms.org, 10am-6pm Tues.-Sat., noon-6pm Sun., free) has five buildings that are connected by an undulating covered walkway that rolls down the fall line of the hillside. Set on 80 acres and used by nonprofit organizations, this relaxing space is especially beautiful in the autumn.
Greenwich, Norwalk, and New Canaan are in Fairfield County, which is served by major roads I-95 and Route 15 (Merritt Parkway).
The Metro-North (877/690-5116, www.mta.info) commuter rail line has stations in these towns, while the closest Amtrak (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) station is Stamford, which has rental car agencies and a taxi stand on the northbound side. You will need quarters for parking in downtown Greenwich; Norwalk meters accept change of all types as well as credit cards; New Canaan meters vary in their acceptance of change, bills, and credit. Greenwich Taxi (203/869-6000, www.greenwichtaxiinc.com) deploys taxis from the northbound platform of the Greenwich Metro-North train station, and Fairfield County is also served by Uber. Norwalk Transit (www.norwalktransit.com) operates public buses that connect the Greenwich and Norwalk train stations with popular locations in those towns.
The sprawling city of New Haven is a blend of historic architecture, picturesque town greens, and some unpolished urban grit that’s survived recent revitalization. One of the country’s oldest cities, New Haven thrived for three centuries as an active port, then fell under the malaise that struck many other Connecticut cities in the mid-20th century, effectively making Yale an island in a city with a reputation for drugs and violence.
More than any other city in the state, however, New Haven has experienced a rebirth—led by an active decision by the university to invest in the city’s infrastructure and improve its image. Nowadays, New Haven is known around the state as a funky and educated oasis with active arts programming and venues that attract major music and sporting events. The real surprise, however, are the rural delights just beyond the city limits, from the beautiful Thimble Islands to the small-town charmers that stretch east along the coast.
Founded in 1701, Yale was the third college in the United States, and quickly established a rivalry with its northern neighbor Harvard, founding a tradition of one-upmanship that’s alive and well. In contrast with Harvard’s distinctive brick buildings, many of Yale’s buildings are done in a striking Gothic style, making a tour of the campus a genuine visual treat. Tours start at the Yale University Visitor Center (149 Elm St., 203/432-2300, www.yale.edu/visitor, 10:30am and 2pm Mon.-Fri., 1:30pm Sat.-Sun., free) and include visits to several of Yale’s libraries, including the rare-book library, which holds a copy of the Gutenberg Bible.
Yale University campus
In addition to its collection of British art, Yale also has several other outstanding museums. The Yale University Art Gallery (1111 Chapel St., 203/432-0600, http://artgallery.yale.edu, 10am-5pm Tues.-Fri., 11am-5pm Sat.-Sun., until 8pm Thurs. Sept.-June, free) holds works from all over the world, with a strong collection of medieval European paintings and several fine canvases by American modernist Edward Hopper.
The Yale Collection of Musical Instruments (15 Hillhouse Ave., 203/432-0822, http://collection.yale.edu, 1pm-4pm Tues.-Fri., 1pm-5pm Sun. Sept.-June, free) includes instruments from all over the globe, starting with a 1,000-year-old Incan conch trumpet; a “sound gallery” plays highlights from Yale concerts.
The Peabody Museum of Natural History (170 Whitney Ave., 203/432-5050 or 203/432-8987, www.yale.edu/peabody, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun., $13 adults, $9 seniors, $6 students and children 3-18, free to all 2pm-5pm Thurs. Sept.-June) has exhibits drawn from Yale expeditions, including a fascinating study of the history of evolution. The centerpiece, however, remains the famous dinosaur skeletons—including stegosaurus, triceratops, and brontosaurus—collected by C. O. Marsh, the museum’s first director and one of the founding fathers of paleontology.
While Yale has many attractions worth visiting, the Yale Center for British Art (1080 Chapel St., 203/432-2800, http://ycba.yale.edu, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun., free) is particularly worth singling out. British art is frequently overshadowed by its European counterparts, but the United Kingdom has a style and artistic history all its own—this museum is the largest and most comprehensive collection outside of the British Isles. Highlights include the psychedelic drawings of poet-artist William Blake, the luminous seascapes of J. W. Turner, and the bucolic landscapes of Thomas Gainsborough and John Constable. The building itself is no slouch either; designed by Louis Kahn, it is a modernist gray cube confronting the adjoining plaza.
The New Haven Museum & Historical Society (114 Whitney Ave., 203/562-4183, www.newhavenmuseum.org, 10am-5pm Tues.-Fri., noon-5pm Sat., $4 adults, $3 seniors, $2 students, children under 12 free, free for all 1pm-4pm first Sun. of each month) contains a mishmash of 350 years of history, ranging from Quinnipiac artifacts to mementos of New Haven’s role in the China trade. The museum also has a collection of artifacts relating to the Amistad affair, including a striking portrait of the leader of the Africans, Joseph Cinque (also known as Sengbe Pieh), on trial. New Haven also pays homage to those brave Africans with its Amistad Memorial (165 Church St.), a 14-foot bronze relief sculpture that depicts their capture, trial, and return home. The monument was sculpted in 1992 and placed on the former site of the New Haven jail, where the crew was imprisoned in 1839 while they awaited trial.
A nationally known music hall, Toad’s Place (300 York St., 203/624-8623, www.toadsplace.com) attracts names that range from unheard-of to huge. An ever-rotating roster of music (from reggae and pop to techno DJs and blues) keeps the scene fresh. The inventively named Bar (254 Crown St., 203/495-1111, www.barnightclub.com) draws crowds for its mashed potato and bacon pizza, with a lively DJ dance scene that fires up late night.
Tennis’s top female players come to New Haven to compete in the Connecticut Open (Connecticut Tennis Center at Yale, 45 Yale Ave., 855/464-8366 or 203/776-7331, www.ctopen.org, mid-Aug.), which benefits a range of community causes. Just in time for the holidays, New Haven launches a Celebration of American Crafts (203/562-4927, www.creativeartsworkshop.org, Nov.-Dec.), a juried craft show exhibition featuring jewelry, ceramics, and other items from hundreds of artisans from all over the country.
Behind the kitschy-retro facade at Owl Shop (268 College St., 203/624-3250, www.owlshopcigars.com, 10am-1am Mon.-Thurs., 10am-2am Fri.-Sat., noon-1am Sun.), one of the oldest cigar and tobacco shops in the country, you’ll come upon imported pipes and endless glass cases filled with smoking accessories. Take a seat in the adjoining brick-walled café, have a drink, and puff away. The New Haven outpost of Ten Thousand Villages (1054 Chapel St., 203/776-0854, www.tenthousandvillages.com/newhaven, 10am-6pm Mon.-Thurs., 10am-8pm Fri.-Sat., 1pm-6pm Sun.) is chock-full of fairly traded crafts from all over the planet. Pick up a hand-carved giraffe for the living room, a chunky necklace made of semiprecious beads, or handwoven table linens.
The scattered archipelago off the coast of Branford is named after the thimbleberry, a cousin to the raspberry that grows wild on the islands. They could just as well be named for their diminutive size, however; in addition to 24 populated islands, literally hundreds of pink granite outcroppings poke their peaks out of the waves. The islands are home to a variety of critters, including a winter population of seals—and a summer influx of rich people from New York, who have built elaborate mansions, tiny cottages, and even little gazebos on the rocks.
Thimble Islands
In addition to being unlike anything else on the New England coast, the islands have spawned dozens of legends, such as an enduring myth that the pirate Captain Kidd buried treasure on so-called Money Island. The best way to take in the islands is at sea level, from the vantage of your very own sea kayak. Branford River Paddle Sports (50 Maple St., Branford, 203/980-8451, www.branfordriverpaddlesports.com) leads kayak and paddleboard expeditions to the Thimbles. If you’d rather let someone else do the paddling, sign up for a 45-minute narrated tour with “Captain Mike” on the Sea Mist, operating under the name Thimble Island Cruise (Thimble Island Rd., Stony Creek, 203/488-8905, http://thimbleislandcruise.com, May-Oct., $13 adults, $12 seniors, $6 children under 12).
The 297 acres of beach, dunes, restored salt marsh, open areas, and woods of Silver Sands State Park (1 Silver Sands Pkwy, Milford, 203/735-4311, www.ct.gov/deep/silversands, 8am-sunset daily, free) includes the 14-acre Charles Island, which is connected to the park by a sandbar that’s submerged during high tide. Legend has it that Captain Kidd buried his treasure on this island, which is closed May-August to protect egrets and other bird rookeries. Construction on a concession stand, new restrooms, and increased parking is expected to be finished in late 2018. Lifeguards are on duty Wednesday-Sunday.
Pizza was reportedly introduced to America in New Haven, so it’s only natural that the city’s pizzerias would be its pride. Exhibit A is S Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana (157 Wooster St., 203/865-5762, www.pepespizzeria.com, 11am-10pm daily, pizzas from $7). The simple interior lets the pies take center stage, with toppings from mozzarella and bacon to mushrooms and fresh clams.
Pull up a chair at one of the wide, burnished-wood tables of Viva Zapata (161 Park St., 203/562-2499, http://vivazapatanewhaven.com, 11:30am-1am Sun.-Thurs., 11:30am-2am Fri.-Sat., $6-16) and brace your taste buds for some simple-but-good Mexican food. Staples like tostadas and fajitas are always available, as are seafood chimichangas and filet con queso (filet mignon stuffed with jack cheese and jalapeños).
Serving inventive Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine, S Olea (39 High St., 203/780-8925, www.oleanewhaven.com, 5pm-9:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 5pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., $26-35) tops many lists of best restaurants in the area. Chef Manuel Romero was born in Spain and knows how to prepare bacalao, ceviche, and rabbit, but shellfish lovers should not pass up the fideuà (vermicelli with squid ink, mussels, shrimp, and clams).
The name of Pad Thai Restaurant (1170 Chapel St., 203/562-0322, www.padthai-newhaven.com, 11:30am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 11:30am-10:30pm Fri.-Sat., $6-17) may be a little on the pedestrian side, but the food is anything but. Authentic Thai is all over the menu here—from the spicy chaiya noodles with seafood and basil to the coriander-scented fried fish.
Oozing with cheese, the pies at Bella Napoli Pizza (864 Boston Post Rd., Milford, 203/877-1102, www.bellanapolipizzaonline.com, 11am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-11pm Fri.-Sat., $6-19) are said to feed half of Milford on weekend nights. Specialty pizzas include creations like clams casino, an egg and cheese breakfast pie, and the Philly cheesesteak.
With wide windows and a simple interior, Café Atlantique (33 River St., Milford, 203/882-1602, www.cafeatlantiquedtm.com, 7am-8pm Mon.-Tues., 7am-9pm Wed.-Thurs., 8am-10pm Sat., 8am-6pm Sun., $5-9) is an ideal spot for quick-but-tasty (and inexpensive) lunches. Order up a pesto-chicken panini and smoothie, or opt for the crepes, which are the stars of the show. There are savory renditions like goat cheese, olives, and almonds, and a lovely banana Nutella crepe for dessert.
The chef-owner of Le Petit Cafe (225 Montowese St., Branford, 203/483-9791, www.lepetitcafe.net, 6pm-9pm Wed.-Sun., $57.50 prix fixe for 4 courses) may be originally from Hong Kong, but the restaurant itself is a perfect evocation of a French bistro. Four-course prix fixe dinners are served in a dining room that feels formal without pretension. The menu includes French standards like escargot and duck confit, expertly prepared by Chef Roy Ip. As a nod to his homeland, however, a couple of Asian-inspired dishes have been slipped into the menu.
Neopolitan, New York style, Chicago style . . . in the oozy, blistered geography of pizza, New Haven’s oddball flatbreads are unique and beloved. Strictly speaking, New Haven makes apizza, pronounced “ah-beets,” and if you could sequence the apizza genome, it would point straight back to Naples—a century ago, the New Haven neighborhood of Wooster Square was known as Little Naples for the high concentration of immigrants who traced their roots to the city that invented pizza, and that’s still where you’ll find the city’s top slices.
New Haven Pizza
What makes it apizza? A classic New Haven pie is tossed by hand, stretched thin, then baked in a searing hot coal-fired oven, whose internal temperature can rise well above 650 degrees Fahrenheit. Order it plain and it comes topped with crushed tomatoes, olive oil, a dusting of pecorino cheese, and a bit of oregano—add some mootz to layer the pie with bubbling mozzarella. Not that that’s the only option. According to the fervent partisans of New Haven pizza, local pizza joint Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria also invented white clam pizza, and its version comes topped with fresh clams, garlic, olive oil, and a restrained layer of grated cheese.
The granddaddy of New Haven pizza is Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana (157 Wooster St., 203/865-5762, www.pepespizzeria.com, 11am-10pm daily, pizzas from $7), where pies come crisp and sooty at the edges, with gorgeously toasted fillings in between. Clam pizza is delightfully simple and gets even better with the addition of chopped bacon.
Neck-and-neck with Frank Pepe’s for the best in the city is Sally’s Apizza (237 Wooster St., 203/624-5271, www.sallysapizza.com, 4pm-9pm Wed.-Thurs., 4pm-10pm Fri., 3pm-10pm Sat., 3pm-9pm Sun., pizzas from $7.50), which has been doling out pies with a side of terse service since 1938. The tomato pie wins extra acclaim here, but the differences are subtle and personal—judge for yourself.
Something to drink with that pizza? If you’re going for the full immersion in New Haven flavors, opt for a Foxon Park soda—it’s been made in East Haven since 1922, with a long list of throwback flavors, including white birch, iron brew—a Scottish cross between cream soda and root beer—and gassosa, an Italian-style lemon-lime soda.
One of the best places in New England to sample native seafood is also one of the simplest. The red-and-white outdoor canopy sits right along Route 1 at S The Place (901 Boston Post Rd./Rte. 1, Guilford, 203/453-9276, 5pm-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 5pm-10pm Fri., 1pm-10pm Sat., noon-9pm Sun. May-Oct., $9-25), where all manner of seafood is cooked on a huge outdoor grill. “Guests” sit down on stumps along large picnic tables to dig into fire-roasted lobster, clams, and, if they are lucky, melt-in-your-mouth filets of smoky fresh bluefish. Note that there’s a cash-only policy.
Vintage couches and a marble lobby belie the low nightly price tag of Hotel Duncan (1151 Chapel St., 203/787-1273, www.hotelduncan.net, $65-100), located a block away from Yale. It’s the oldest hotel in the city—a fact that does show through in timeworn furnishings—but the age also lends a comfortable charm to the venerable institution. Rooms on the top floor have outstanding views.
Located smack downtown and close to just about everything, New Haven Hotel (229 George St., 203/498-3100, www.newhavenhotel.com, $144-199) is both convenient and quiet. The property offers good perks, including a 24-hour fitness center, restaurant, and evening wine and cheese reception.
Built with Ivy League bigwig visitors in mind, the Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale (155 Temple St., 203/772-6664, www.omnihotels.com, $170-394) is the luxury choice for its health club, rooftop restaurant, function space, and scads of business services (including a business center).
An 1820 Greek Revival bed-and-breakfast, S Austin Street Inn (9 Austin St., 203/387-1699, www.austinstreetinn.net, $179-189) has four guest rooms. In the Westville Village Historic District, a former industrial center that’s now an artists’ community, the inn is within walking distance of restaurants, shops, and parks.
The Study at Yale (1157 Chapel St., 203/503-3900, http://studyatyale.com, $229-279) appeals to the guest whose idea of relaxation is picking a book from the floor-to-ceiling bookcase in the lobby and kicking back in a leather chair with a view of Yale’s redbrick arts campus. A gallery exhibits works by Yale students, while a restaurant, café, and fitness center round out amenities.
New Haven is served by the Greater New Haven Convention and Visitors Bureau (169 Orange St., 203/777-8550, www.newhavencvb.com). For maps, brochures, and reservations, stop by Visit New Haven (545 Long Wharf Dr., 203/777-8550, www.visitnewhaven.com), which runs an information center downtown.
New Haven is located at the intersection of I-91 and I-95: it’s 1.75 hours from New York City, 2 hours from Boston, and 1.75 hours from Providence.
Both Amtrak (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) and Metro North (800/638-7646, www.mta.info) run trains to and from Union Station (50 Union Ave.); Greyhound (203/772-2470, www.greyhound.com) and Peter Pan Bus Lines (800/343-9999, www.peterpanbus.com) provide bus routes to the same location.
The New Haven regional service of CT Transit (203/624-0151, www.cttransit.com) operates buses around the city and immediate suburbs. Milford Transit (203/874-4507, www.ci.milford.ct.us) runs shuttle buses around the town of Milford. The Shore Line East (800/255-7433, www.shorelineeast.com) commuter rail service runs trains to Guilford, Branford, and other eastern suburbs, continuing on to New London.
A tidy package of quintessential New England, the village of Essex has a Main Street lined with beautifully preserved historic homes and a park crowned by a pristine gazebo. It won’t take more than an hour to stroll around the compact downtown, but there are a handful of historical highlights that make it worth lingering. The Connecticut River Museum explores the maritime heritage of the Connecticut River Valley, while the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat keep the golden age of travel alive.
At the end of Main Street by the town dock, the Connecticut River Museum (67 Main St., 860/767-8269, http://ctrivermuseum.org, 10am-5pm daily Memorial Day-Columbus Day, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun. Columbus Day-Memorial Day, $10 adults, $8 seniors, $7 students, $6 children 6-12, children under 6 free) explains the importance of the river in the area’s history. A highlight of the collection is a replica of The Turtle, a wooden submersible built in 1775 by Yale student David Bushnell to transport a bomb to British ships during the Revolutionary War. His efforts were unsuccessful, but his invention was the precursor to the submarine.
It’s not just small children who flock to Essex to ride the old-fashioned Essex Steam Train & Riverboat (1 Railroad Ave., 860/767-0103, www.essexsteamtrain.com, hours and prices vary), which connects to a riverboat for a 2.5-hour excursion. There are white-tablecloth fine-dining excursions for adults as well as a sunset, cigars, and whiskey cruise. Much programming is geared toward little ones, however, with Thomas the Train and pirate-themed days, plus Santa Claus shows up in season.
If you don’t have time for a big water excursion, hop a little ferry to Marley’s Café (11 Ferry St., 860/853-0133, hours vary widely, May-Oct., $5-30), in the Essex Island Marina. This unique, casual spot is accessible via a quick ride on a little boat—and somehow hopping a boat to the restaurant gives it the feel of a getaway.
One of the longest continually operating inns in the United States, the S Griswold Inn (36 N. Main St., 860/767-1776, www.griswoldinn.com, entrées $19-35, rooms $195-345) first opened its doors in 1776. Simple, elegant rooms and suites are appointed with antique furnishings in keeping with the inn’s historic feel—some have fireplaces, while others have views to the ocean. Stop into a tavern that’s decked with memorabilia, or pause for a bite in the Library or Gun Room, adorned with books and firearms that date to the 15th century. The cuisine highlights classic New England fare such as a creamy clam chowder and perfectly roasted cod; there’s a kids’ menu for the younger set. A museum-worthy maritime art collection is on display in the public areas. Ask for literature about the inn’s history at the front desk.
Essex is easily accessible from I-95 and I-91 via Route 9. There are plenty of marinas in the area if you’re traveling by boat. 9 Town Transit (860/510-0429, http://estuarytransit.org) operates 15 buses on four flexible routes (fixed stops with deviations) throughout the region, including connections to New Haven, New London, and Middletown. Fares, which can be purchased online or on the bus (but the driver cannot make change) are $1.75 for adults, $.85 for seniors, and free for children under four.
The little town of Mystic made its fortunes in shipbuilding, and the community now thrives by keeping that salty history alive. Set on the edge of the Mystic River, the Mystic Seaport Museum is a full immersion in New England’s seafaring past, as a proud whaling vessel bobs at her moorings and sailor-interpreters lead visitors in rousing sea shanties.
Just across the river, the quiet village of Stonington is home to Connecticut’s sole remaining fishing fleet, which sets out each morning to troll the coastal waters for bottom fish, clams, and scallops. Stonington achieved brief fame during the War of 1812, when its two 18-pound cannons repelled an attack by five British warships, but nothing so dramatic has unfolded in the ensuing years. These days, it’s all nostalgia—perfect for a stroll by the sea or a day of imagining life before the mast.
Situated a mile upriver from downtown, the Mystic Seaport Museum (Rte. 27, Exit 90 off I-95, 860/572-5315, www.mysticseaport.org, 9am-5pm daily Apr.-Oct., 10am-4pm daily Nov.-Mar., $28.95 adults, $26.95 seniors and students, $18.95 children 4-14, children under 4 free) has more than 500 vessels in a miniature city that is a careful reproduction of a bustling 19th-century seaport.
Mystic Seaport Museum
The most engaging attractions, however, are the village folk and old salts who regale visitors with tales of the sea, and the Charles W. Morgan, America’s last surviving whale ship, launched in New Bedford in 1841. Interpreters detail how the tryworks rendered all that whale blubber, and also lead parties in hoisting sails, complete with authentic sea shanties. There are plenty of interactive experiences for kids, a boat-themed play area, a cooperage, and much more, with frequent demonstrations of old-fashioned sailor skills. In case you’re visiting on your birthday, let the ticket office know—birthday visitors get in free.
A highlight of the visitor experience at the very large, interactive Mashantucket Pequot Museum & Research Center (110 Pequot Tr., Mashantucket, 860/411-9671, www.pequotmuseum.org, 9am-5pm Wed.-Sat. Mar. 29-Oct. 31, 9am-5pm Tues.-Sat. Nov., $20 adults, $15 seniors, $12 children 6-15, children under 6 free) is walking through a re-created village that brings pre-European culture to life.
Learn how people built their homes, hunted, and cared for their sick by pressing buttons on a phone-like device that has explanations for each setting. The museum, which is also a prominent research facility, doesn’t mince words as it recounts the decimation of Native American tribes through warfare and disease. With a collection of some 150,000 books, the center’s primary mission is researching, collecting, and preserving Native American artifacts from southern New England.
Be first in line when the Mystic Aquarium (55 Coogan Blvd., Mystic, 860/572-5955, www.mysticaquarium.org, 10am-4:50pm daily Jan. 2-Feb. 17 and Dec. 1-24, 9am-4:50pm daily Feb. 18-Mar. 31, Sept. 5-Nov. 30, and Dec. 26-Jan. 1, 9am-5:50pm daily Apr. 1-Sept. 4, $35.99 adults, $30.99 seniors, $29.99 children 13-17, $25.99 children 3-12, children under 3 free) opens to beat the throngs of visitors at this popular attraction. Beluga whales, penguins, and a ray touch tank are crowd pleasers, as are daily seal shows in an indoor theater. Since many of the exhibits are out of doors, come prepared for the weather.
Founded in 1840, the small Old Lighthouse Museum (7 Water St., Stonington, 860/535-1440, www.stoningtonhistory.org, 10am-5pm Sun.-Tues. and Thurs.-Sat. May-Oct., $10 adults, $6 children) proudly snags the title of America’s first lighthouse museum, and now exhibits art and artifacts from Stonington’s past.
Those who appreciate art, history, and gardens will want to get off I-95 at exit 70 to visit the Florence Griswold Museum (96 Lyme St., Old Lyme, 860/434-5542, www.florencegriswoldmuseum.org). The cheerful yellow 1841 FloGris, as it is known, was an American impressionist art colony in the early 1900s. Painters like Childe Hassam were inspired by the tranquil Lieutenant River and the beautiful informal gardens that are lovingly re-created today. There’s a café on-site as well as a gallery showcasing the museum’s collections and rotating exhibitions. Visitors are encouraged on Sunday afternoons April-December to paint en plein air, and are given the tools to do so. Fall brings the popular Wee Faerie Village, an imaginative creation of a fairy village complete with a post office, school, movie theater, and so on, scattered throughout the museum’s 13-acre campus.
Marching bands, floats, and even Miss Connecticut turn out for the annual Blessing of the Fleet (Stonington Fishermen’s Dock, 1 High St., Stonington, late July, free), which begins with a mass at St. Mary Church followed by a parade through downtown and culminates with a clambake on the waterfront and boats moored in the harbor.
A parade of antique and classic vessels set off from Mystic Seaport during the Antique and Classic Boat Rendezvous (888/973-2767, www.mysticseaport.org, July); the boats can be seen at the seaport that weekend. More than 250 visual artists compete each year in the juried Mystic Outdoor Art Festival (860/572-5098, www.mysticchamber.org, mid-Aug.), which also features food and craft vendors ranged along Main Street.
A spot-on representative of a classic Connecticut preppy retailer, Island Pursuit (23 W. Main St., Mystic, 475/777-3303, www.islandpursuit.com, 10am-9pm daily) sells items like brightly patterned shift dresses and ingenious waterproof espadrilles. You can lose yourself browsing the eclectic items in Puffins (4 Holmes St., Mystic, 860/415-9644, 10am-5pm Sun.-Thurs., 10am-6pm Fri.-Sat.) like oil paintings, handblown vases, and whimsically decorated small furniture pieces. Pick up some fine art, antiques, and unique objects literally spanning the centuries at Rue Auber Antiques (65 Cutler St., Stonington, 860/504-3251, rueauber.com, 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., by appointment Sat.-Sun.).
The prompt service deserves its raves at Noah’s (113 Water St., Stonington, 860/535-3925, http://noahsfinefood.com/new, 7:45am-9pm Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., 7:45am-9:30pm Fri.-Sat., $14-21), the small, tin-ceilinged spot where locals bounce between the cheery booths and bar. Opt for the seafood—dishes of tender swordfish or the superb lobster roll—and you won’t be sorry.
S Mystic Pizza (56 W. Main St., Mystic, 860/536-3700, 10am-10pm daily, $8-14), the real-life pizza restaurant that served as the inspiration for Julia Roberts’s 1988 film of the same name, is still churning out pies every night. Tables can get crowded for dinner, so be prepared to wait.
A lively spot right on the water near the drawbridge, S & P Oyster House (1 Holmes St., Mystic, 860/536-2674, www.sp-oyster.com, 11:30am-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 11:30am-10pm Fri.-Sat., $26-49) is not surprisingly heavy on seafood, but there’s a kids’ menu if you’re dining with picky little eaters. There’s both indoor and outdoor seating; make reservations (well, they call it “priority seating” and they don’t guarantee your preferred time slot) if you are going in season.
Connecticut isn’t all fragile antiques and quiet inns—the state is packed with kid-friendly spots. In fact, there’s loads of hands-on fun for the wee ones in these parts, starting with the Beardsley Zoo (1875 Noble Ave., Bridgeport, 203/394-6565, www.beardsleyzoo.com), the state’s only zoo, where you can see plenty of species (some endangered) in well-kept environments. There’s a tropical rainforest full of exotic birds, a carousel, a restaurant, and picnic areas.
At New Haven’s Peabody Museum of Natural History (click here), you’ll find live animals alongside brontosaurus and stegosaurus skeletons and exhibits on evolution and ancient Egypt, plus rocks, minerals, and meteorites. For a day on the move, the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat Ride (click here) lets families cruise a riverboat down the Connecticut River, then hop onboard an authentic steam locomotive. Travelers with younger kids shouldn’t miss the Stepping Stones Museum for Children (click here), where little visitors can climb inside an ambulance and follow floating balls in a water play area.
Yale’s Peabody Museum
It’s all fun and games at Quassy Amusement Park (click here), the 20-acre family playground on Lake Quassapaug with interactive water attractions, swimming, boat rides, and live entertainment. Still more water fun happens at Mystic Aquarium (click here), home to beluga whales, penguins, and many marine animals. Or, head straight into the state’s historic relationship with the sea at the nearby Mystic Seaport Museum (click here). Sure it’s crowded, but for good reason: Kids love exploring the wooden whalers and historic tall ships, the planetarium, and a working shipyard.
Continuing the water theme, about a half hour inland from Mystic, The Dinosaur Place (1650 Hartford-New London Turnpike, Montville, 860/443-4367, http://naturesartvillage.com/the-dinosaur-place, 10am-6pm daily Apr. 1-Nov. 26; Apr. 1-May 12 and Oct. 1-Nov. 26 $16.99 ages 2-59, $14.99 over 60, May 13-June 16 and Sept. 5-30, $19.99 ages 2-59, $16.99 over 60, June 17-Sept. 4 $23.99 ages 2-59, $20.99 over 60; children under 2 always free) has a dinosaur-themed water park (spray areas, not rides), a playground, a maze, and mini golf, but the main draw are the enormous life-sized dinosaur statues that line easy, wide trails that are fine for strollers.
A contender for best lobster eggs Benedict in the universe can be found at Kitchen Little (36 Quarry Rd., Mystic, 860/536-2122, http://kitchenlittle.org, 7:30am-2pm Mon.-Fri., 6:30am-1pm Sat.-Sun., $.99-18.99), a small, unassuming spot on the 2nd floor of the Mystic Marina. Serving hearty breakfasts since 1980, Kitchen Little has a comfortable porch with views of sleek yachts.
In the village of Noank, about 10 minutes from Mystic, Ford’s Lobster (15 Riverview Ave., Noank, 860/536-2842, www.fordslobster.com, 11:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-9pm Sun., $19-42) sits right on a dock and is a perfect spot to dig into dishes like the lobster bomb or grilled halibut if you are lucky enough to get a table right away (no reservations). It’s BYOB, so come prepared.
Fans of traditional New England dining will enjoy a meal at Captain Daniel Packer Inne (32 Water St., Mystic, 860/536-3555, www.danielpacker.com, 11am-10pm daily, $20-34), a 1756 downtown establishment housing both pub and restaurant. In the latter, take a seat near the fireplace and sup on lemon-peppered chicken and baked scallops from nearby Stonington.
Utilitarian and budget-friendly, Days Inn Mystic (55 Whitehall Ave., 860/572-0574, www.daysinn.com/mystic, $60-100) is convenient to all sights and right off I-95, and there’s a free buffet breakfast with bagels, waffles, cereal, yogurt, and more. Oh, and there’s a pool.
Old Lyme Inn (85 Lyme St., Old Lyme, 860/434-2600, www.oldlymeinn.com, $135-175) is a perfect balance of sophistication and relaxation. Rooms all have queen or king canopy beds and pretty views, and include an excellent (and filling) continental breakfast.
Foxwoods Resort Casino (350 Trolley Line Blvd., Mashantucket, 860/312-2000, www.foxwoods.com, $129-694) has four hotels: the upscale Grand Pequot Tower featuring 1,400-square-foot villas, restaurants, including one from Guy Fieri, an indoor pool and spa, and Tanger Outlet stores; Great Cedar Hotel, in the center of the casino action; Two Trees Inn, an off-site property designed to feel like a country inn; and the Fox Tower, with a spa and a huge outdoor pool. A golf course, bowling alley, arcade, impressive Pequot Museum, and miles of trails on the 2,000-acre property ensure even non-gamblers will be kept busy.
With three casinos to Foxwoods’ seven, Mohegan Sun (1 Mohegan Sun Blvd., Uncasville, 888/777-7922, www.mohegansun.com, $149-499) is smaller, with only two hotels: Sky Tower, which has a 10,000-square-foot indoor pool, and the smaller (400 rooms versus Sky Tower’s 1,563) and more recently built Earth Tower. There are two spas, a golf course, and an advantage over Foxwoods for parents: Kids up to age 12 can be dropped off at Kids Quest/Cyber Quest, an entertainment venue with activities like karaoke and rock climbing.
Its majestic views overlook Mystic Harbor and Long Island Sound, but that’s just part of what makes S The Inn at Mystic (Rtes. 1 and 27, Mystic, 860/536-9604, www.innatmystic.com, $95-325) so darn pretty. Between the beautifully manicured flower gardens, the rooms outfitted in designer fabrics and massive beds (some with fireplaces, whirlpools, and patios), and the charming mansion itself, it’s hard to decide where to look next.
All the major travel publications have raved about Inn at Stonington (60 Water St., Stonington, 860/535-2000, www.innatstonington.com, $195-490) at one point or another, and with excellent reason. The superbly run, impeccably kept spot offers personal (but never intrusive) service. The 18 rooms all look as though Martha Stewart herself decorated them; each comes with fireplaces and oversized bathrooms, and most have whirlpool tubs and modem ports, to boot. There’s also a homemade continental breakfast, free bike loans, and use of the exercise room.
The Greater Mystic Chamber of Commerce (860/572-1102, www.mysticchamber.org) and the Connecticut Office of Tourism (800/288-4748, www.ctvisit.com/mystic) can provide further information about this region.
Amtrak (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) runs trains to stations in Mystic (Rte. 1), New London (27 Water St.), and Old Saybrook (455 Boston Post Rd.). Greyhound (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) operates bus service to New London (45 Water St.). New London is also a major hub for ferries crossing Long Island Sound, including the Cross Sound Ferry (2 Ferry St., 860/443-5281, www.longislandferry.com) to Orient Point, the Viking Fleet (631/668-5700, www.vikingfleet.com) to Montauk Point and Martha’s Vineyard, and the Block Island Express (800/444-4624, www.goblockisland.com) to Block Island.
Bus company Southeast Area Transit (SEAT, 860/886-2631, www.seatbus.com) operates routes through area towns including New London, Groton, East Lyme, and Stonington.
Sitting proudly in the middle of the state, surrounded by a spider web of interstate highways, Connecticut’s capital has a long history and a bad rap. The city was settled just after Boston and spent 200 years as a flourishing port city, linked to the ocean by the wandering Connecticut River.
This is where the first law school in America was founded in 1784, and the location of America’s first insurance company—two claims to fame that earned the city’s title of “America’s Filing Cabinet.” Since then, Hartford has seen a long decline, rising crime, and a layer of grime that’s taken the shine off the early American glory.
But there are glimmers of energy and revitalization in the city, where all that history is shot through with the vibrancy of university life, plenty for a day of exploring. And in the communities that surround the capital, you’ll find historic house museums and offbeat attractions that are seriously under the radar.
Samuel Langhorne Clemens—the writer who become known to the world as Mark Twain—is more often associated with the wide, muddy flow of the Mississippi River than urban Connecticut. But many of his masterpieces, including The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn and The Adventures of Tom Sawyer, were penned in this Victorian Gothic manse, now the Mark Twain House & Museum (351 Farmington Ave., 860/247-0998, www.marktwainhouse.org, 9:30am-5:30pm daily, closed Tues. Jan.-Feb., $20 adults 17-64, $18 seniors, $11 children 6-16, children under 6 free), just outside of downtown Hartford. Twain lived here for 16 years, and while he was here, he formed the nucleus of a literary group that included Harriet Beecher Stowe, Booker T. Washington, and other giants of the Gilded Age.
Inside, docents give tours of the house, including the billiards room where Twain did most of his writing; the elaborate Middle Eastern-inspired decor by Louis Comfort Tiffany; and Twain’s telephone, one of the first installed in a private residence. Fun options include tours led by actors playing Twain’s staff including his butler and housekeeper. Some tours fill in advance, so it’s worth booking ahead. Visitors receive a $3 discount at the Stowe Center next door.
Harriet Beecher Stowe lived in this Victorian “cottage” (77 Forest St., 860/522-9258, www.harrietbeecherstowecenter.org, 9:30am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun., closed Tues. Jan.-Mar., $14 adults, $12 seniors, $8 children 5-12, children under 5 free) right next door to the Mark Twain House for 33 years. Through objects, photographs, and interactive media, docents tell the story of the author and the lasting impact of her novel Uncle Tom’s Cabin. Exhibits explore the author’s passion for social justice, including emancipation and women’s rights, and a specially designed tour for children ages 5-12 provides a wonderful introduction to these concepts. Visitors receive a $3 discount at the neighboring Mark Twain House.
Harriet Beecher Stowe Center
The gargantuan Wadsworth Atheneum (600 Main St., 860/278-2670, www.wadsworthatheneum.org, 11am-5pm Wed.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.-Sun., $15 adults, $12 seniors, $5 students, children 18 and under free, free for all 4pm-5pm Wed.-Sun. and 10am-1pm second Sat. of each month) is not only America’s oldest art museum, it’s also one of its best. Founded in 1842 by arts patron Daniel Wadsworth, the Atheneum has a broad range of genres, including works by European masters such as Monet, Picasso, and Dali; a fantastic collection of Classical bronzes; and early American portraiture, including the oldest known American portrait, Elizabeth Eggington. But two collections outshine the rest: the paintings of the Hudson River School, which formed the original basis of Wadsworth’s collection, and the Amistad Center for Art and Culture, which documents the African American experience through fine art, photography, historical artifacts, memorabilia, and rare books.
Plan to spend a few hours at the Connecticut Science Center (250 Columbus Blvd., 860/724-3623, www.ctsciencecenter.org, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun. Sept.-June, 10am-5pm daily July-Aug., $23.95 adults, $21.95 seniors 65 and over, $16.95 children 3-17, children under 3 free), a nine-story Cesar Pelli-designed museum featuring 165 hands-on exhibits and activities. Special events like a Minecraft competition and attractions such as a butterfly garden and 3-D nature films keep this museum hopping.
The regal facade of the 1796 Old State House (800 Main St., 860/522-6766, www.cga.ct.gov/osh/, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat. early July-early Oct., 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri mid-Oct.-early July, $6 adults, $3 children 6-17, students, and seniors, children under 5 free) dominates Hartford’s downtown. The building was designed by Charles Bulfinch, the foremost architect of the federal period, who also designed the Massachusetts State House and redesigned the U.S. Capitol. Inside the state house is an amusing “museum of curiosities,” drawn from the private collection of a colonial portrait artist who had his studio in the building and collected, among other things, the horn of a unicorn and a two-headed calf. A self-guided audio tour covers the building’s many historic dramas, including the trials of the enslaved Africans who took over the ship Amistad and abolitionist educator Prudence Crandall.
The modern-day Connecticut State Capitol (210 Capitol Ave., 860/240-0222, www.cga.ct.gov, guided tours hourly 9:15am-1:15pm Mon.-Fri. Sep.-June; 9:15am-2:15pm Mon.-Fri. July-Aug., self-guided tours 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri. year-round, free) is a mishmash of architectural styles dominated by a soaring central tower capped by a 12-sided golden dome. Tours take in the building’s ornate interior, as well as works of painting and sculpture important to the state.
Very worth the 15-minute drive to Farmington, Hillstead Museum (35 Mountain Rd., 860/677-4787, http://hillstead.org, 10am-4pm Tues.-Sat., $15 adults, $12 seniors, $8 children 6-12, children under 6 free) is a colonial revival house museum noteworthy for its art collection, famous guests, and builder—one of the first female American architects. The stately grounds sprawl across 152 acres and include a sunken garden and walking trails.
Half an hour beyond Hartford are two wonderful, small, family-focused amusement/water parks, each at the edge of a scenic lake. With 20 rides, waterslides, and a toddler-friendly play area, Quassy Amusement Park and Waterpark (2132 Middlebury Rd., Rte. 64, Middlebury, 203/758-2913, www.quassy.com, hours and days vary, May-Oct., $28 over 45 inches tall, $25 under 45 inches tall) also has paddleboats, canoes, and kayaks available to rent on the beach. Opened in 1846, Lake Compounce (186 Enterprise Dr., Bristol, 860/583-3300, www.lakecompounce.com, hours and days vary, May-Sept., $44 over 52 inches tall, $34 under 52 inches tall, $23 seniors) is the oldest continuously operating amusement park in the United States. With a wooden roller coaster and a triple-launch steel coaster, Lake Compounce attracts families with older kids, but little ones can try the Dino Expedition and Flying Elephants. The adjoining water park has wave pools, waterslides, and a family rafting adventure.
Worried you’ll miss a crucial play in the big game? Not if you’re at Black Bear Saloon (187 Allyn St., 860/524-8888, www.blackbearhartford.com), which has 30 TVs and takes its sports seriously. With more than a dozen craft beers on tap and nine levels of a historic 19th-century building in which to enjoy them, City Steam Brewery Café (942 Main St., 860/525-1600, http://citysteam.biz) is a popular gathering place. A festive, Irish pub atmosphere enlivens The Half-Door (270 Sisson Ave., 860/232-7827, www.thehalfdoorhfd.com), where regulars chow down on bangers and mash and catch frequent live music. With cheap drinks and plenty of pool tables, Pigs Eye Pub (356 Asylum St., 860/278-4747, www.pigseyepub.com) draws the college crowd, who hit the dance floor after a few “pigtails.” Don’t miss the outdoor space with a view of Bushnell Park.
Honoring the city’s founder, the Thomas Hooker Day Parade and Festival (www.facebook.com/hookerdayparade, mid-May) in Bushnell Park resembles Mardi Gras with costumed revelers throwing beads and candy, marching bands, and giant puppets, plus food trucks, local vendors, child-friendly activities, and a classic car show. Hartford celebrates the start of summer with Rose Weekend (Prospect Ave. and Asylum Ave., 860/231-9443, http://elizabethparkct.org/whats_happening.html, 11:30am-4pm mid-June), an event in Elizabeth Park that features the blooming of 15,000 roses along with music, poetry, and storytelling. From Thanksgiving until after Christmas, Hartford is brightened nightly by the Festival of Light (860/742-2267, www.holidaylightfantasia.org, late Nov.-early Jan., $15 per car), during which a million lights transform Goodwin Park into a starry fantasia celebrating Christmas, Hanukkah, and Three Kings Day.
Much of the city’s shopping lies outside of the city itself, in suburbs like Farmington, West Hartford, and Avon. That said, there are some distinctive souvenirs to be found at Hartford Prints! (42½ Pratt St., 860/578-8447, www.hartfordprints.com, 11am-7pm Tues.-Sat.), where you can pick up a cutting board in the shape of Connecticut, a Small State Great Beer pint glass, and a CT QT onesie for any baby in your life. Also check out the Museum Store at the Old State House (800 Main St., 860/522-6766, www.cga.ct.gov/osh/, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat. July-early Oct., 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri. mid-Oct.-early July), which carries a solid stash of books about Connecticut, distinctive jewelry, and games and toys.
Perched high up on the Metacomet Ridge west of Hartford, the 165-foot Heublein Tower makes a tantalizing goal for hikers in Talcott Mountain State Park (Rte. 185, Bloomfield, 860/242-1158, www.ct.gov.dep, noon-2pm Thurs.-Sun., free). Reached by a moderate 1.5-mile stretch of the Metacomet Trail, the tower is done in the Tyrolean style, and has a rich history, including a visit by President Dwight Eisenhower. The Metacomet Trail stretches for 40 miles up the ridge and is also accessible from other parks in the region, including Peak Mountain in Granby. Another good spot for some outdoor exercise is the Windsor Lock Canal State Park (Bridge St., Windsor Locks to Canal St., Suffield, www.ct.gov/dot), which has 5 miles of level trails overlooking the river and its ingenious series of locks.
The 18-mile Farmington River Trail (www.traillink.com/trail/farmington-river-trail) is a loop trail that mostly follows the river and passes through several towns. It connects to Farmington Canal Heritage Trail (http://fchtrail.org)—an 80-mile rail corridor and a canal tow path—in Farmington and Simsbury.
Traversing eight towns in north-central Connecticut, the 38.5-mile Tunxis Trail (www.ctwoodlands.org/blue-blazed-hiking-trails/tunxis-trail) has options for loop hikes and a variety of terrain for all experience levels. Highlights of the northern section, accessed from Barkhamsted (http://barkhamsted.us), are the Indian Cave and Soapstone Quarry dating to 800 BCE.
Currently undergoing renovations, Hartford’s standby is Max Downtown (185 Asylum St., 860/522-2530, maxrestaurantgroup.com/downtown, 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-11pm Fri., 5pm-11pm Sat., 4:30pm-9:30pm Sun., $21-49), a 30-year favorite with chophouse classics. At the time of writing, the restaurant planned to add lighter fare and small plates to the venerable menu.
Founded in 2007 by a charity that supports the local community, Firebox (539 Broad St., 860/246-1222, www.fireboxrestaurant.com, 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm Tues.-Fri., 5:30pm-10pm Sat., 11am-2pm and 4:30pm-8:30pm Sun., $24-34) has a long list of farm suppliers on a New American menu. Duck with a cherry demi-glace arrives alongside goat feta polenta, and it’s well worth perusing the excellent wine list.
They don’t call it soul food for nothing; the comfort fixings at S Black-Eyed Sally’s (350 Asylum St., 860/278-7427, www.blackeyedsallys.com, 11:30am-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-11pm Fri.-Sat., 11:30am-8pm Sun., $10.95-19.95) are first-rate. Blackened catfish and jambalaya are house specialties, but the big don’t-miss is the rib-and-sausage “Sally’s Pig Out” (you’ll understand the true meaning of that name after you eat the entire thing).
A relative downtown newcomer, trendy Salute (100 Trumbull St., 860/899-1350, www.salutehartford.com, 11:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 3pm-9pm Sun., $17-36) walks the line between a casual and upscale Italian restaurant. The lively space with stone walls, leather banquettes, and flattering lighting draws crowds for dishes like shrimp piccata and short ribs served with goat cheese mashed potatoes. There’s always a gluten-free pasta special and vegetarian options like “spasta pesto”—julienned vegetables in a nest of spaghetti squash with pesto and tomato sauce.
For inventive pizzas including a kimchi Reuben and bacon-chicken-ranch, head to The Blind Pig Pizza Co. (89 Arch St., 860/744-4333, http://blindpigpizza.com, 11am-10pm Sun.-Wed., 11am-11pm Thurs.-Sat., $10-14). Opened in 2016 by the team behind Bear’s Smokehouse BBQ, Blind Pig offers four barbecue pies as well as gluten-free options.
Worth the 15-minute trip east of Hartford, the New York-style S Rein’s New York Style Deli (435 Hartford Turnpike, Vernon, 860/875-1344, www.reinsdeli.com, 7am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 7am-midnight Fri.-Sat., $6-14) is always abuzz with devotees downing delicious traditional Jewish delicacies from matzo ball soup and cheese blintzes to chopped liver and whitefish salad. On your way out the door, grab a few black-and-white cookies for the road.
Right next to the XL Center and just a few blocks from the state capitol, Hilton Hartford (315 Trumbull St., 860/728-5151, www.hilton.com, $100-339) is a tightly run operation of about 400 rooms. Expect all the usual Hilton amenities (in-room coffeemakers and high-speed Internet access) plus an indoor pool and fully outfitted fitness center.
In the center of the action, the Hartford Marriott Downtown (200 Columbus Blvd., 860/249-8000, $130-189) has two restaurants, an indoor pool, a hot tub, and a fitness center. Club-level rooms allow access to a private lounge with free continental breakfast and evening appetizers.
The hippest place to stay in downtown Hartford, the Goodwin Hotel (1 Hayes St., 860/246-7500, www.goodwinhotel.com, $99-299) got a boutique makeover in 2017. Those hoping to channel some of J. P. Morgan’s financial success can stay in the suite named for its most famous guest—Morgan was born across the street and was a cousin of the Goodwin brothers who in 1881 built this redbrick hotel, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. Don’t miss the chance to stop by the hotel’s bar for an “adult snow cone.”
The Hartford Business Improvement District (hartford.com) and Central Regional Tourism District (www.centerofct.com) operate websites with area tourism information; the latter has a guide you can order or download. Hartford Magazine (www.hartfordmag.com) is a publication of the Hartford Courant newspaper, which is also behind www.ctnow.com.
Hartford is located at the intersection of I-84 and I-91, 2 hours, 20 minutes from New York City, and 1 hour, 40 minutes from Boston.
Amtrak (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) runs trains to Hartford’s train station at One Union Place, with additional service to Windsor and Windsor Locks. Greyhound (800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) offers buses to many area locations, including Enfield, Farmington, and Middletown.
CT Transit (860/522-8101, www.cttransit.com) operates bus service throughout Hartford and the greater Connecticut River Valley. The E line runs from the corner of Main and Travelers Streets to West Hartford (15 min.) and Farmington (35 min.). The N line runs from the Old State House (800 Main St.) to Windsor center (45 min.), and the U line runs from the Old State House to Middletown (1 hr.). All fares are $1.75. For taxi service, try City Cab (860/416-6587), or pick one up at the taxi stand in front of Union Station.
Tucked into the state’s northwestern corner, the Litchfield Hills are blissfully quiet, studded with lush hills, farms, and small villages. This is prime leaf-peeping territory in autumn, and a favorite country escape from New York City. Not that anyone goes to the Litchfield Hills to live off the land—this is rural New England gone upscale, with excellent restaurants, luxe inns, and a lifetime of high-end shopping.
Litchfield was settled in 1721, and very much looks the part of a quaint colonial town. Restored to a high shine, 18th-century architecture clusters around a pristine town green, and wide avenues are lined with historic homes. Things are quiet enough today, but Litchfield was a hotbed of Revolutionary sentiment and played a big part during the Revolutionary War era, with hometown figures that include Vermont’s militia captain Ethan Allen, future vice president Aaron Burr, and several signers of the Declaration of Independence.
Because of that tradition—not to mention its almost impregnable position deep in the hills—Litchfield served as a command center and storehouse during the war. General George Washington passed through four times during 1780 and 1781, and Litchfield and its surrounding communities have painstakingly marked his steps and noted every place he laid his head at night.
A story in the Litchfield Monitor in 1803 reported that the Litchfield Green, a wide, oval expanse in the center of town was filled with broken fences, woodpiles, and overgrown shrubbery, with hogs, not to mention truants, wandering around at will. Such an image today is all but inconceivable. Litchfield’s town green stretches as much as a football field from end to end and is lined on one side by shops and restaurants, all trying to outdo each other to exude a combination of colonial forthrightness and upscale panache.
Just looking up at the white clapboard facade of the 1828 First Congregational Church recalls the era of tricornered hats, musketry, petticoats, and breeches. It’s interesting to know, then, that the church wasn’t on the green more than 50 years before it was moved to make room for a more “fashionable” Gothic church. The original meetinghouse was used as an armory, dance hall, and even a skating rink before a colonial revival effort in the 20th century restored it to its commanding location on the green.
Though all of Litchfield might be considered an open-air history museum, the peerless collection at the Litchfield Historical Society (7 South St., 860/567-4501, www.litchfieldhistoricalsociety.org, 11am-5pm Tues.-Sat., 1pm-5pm Sun. mid-Apr.-Nov., free) is especially worthwhile. Stop to see artifacts from colonial, federal, and Victorian times, including period furniture, clothing, accessories, pewter, tavern signs, manuscripts . . . the list goes on.
The Historical Society also gives tours of the Tapping Reeve House (82 South St., 11am-5pm Tues.-Sat., 1pm-5pm Sun. mid-Apr.-Nov., free), a colonial home that once housed a law school run by future Supreme Court Justice Tapping Reeve at the turn of the 19th century. More than 1,000 students were educated there, including 130 future U.S. senators and congressmen and such luminaries as Horace Man, Noah Webster, and John C. Calhoun.
The area’s take on farm-to-bottle distilling, Litchfield Distillery (569 Bantam Rd., 860/361-6503, www.litchfielddistillery.com, tours and tastings on the hour noon-5pm Wed.-Sun., free), uses locally sourced grains for its award-winning bourbon, vodka, and gin. Tours explain the distilling process, concluding with a tasting of the distillery’s spirits.
One of New England’s best natural-history centers, and Connecticut’s largest wildlife refuge and nature center, the White Memorial Conservation Center (80 Whitehall Rd., off Rte. 202, 860/567-0857, www.whitememorialcc.org, 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun., $6 adults, $3 children 6-12) is a 4,000-acre preserve that combines an impressive museum with 35 miles of trails. The museum is full of high-quality dioramas painted by James Perry Wilson, who created the ones at the American Museum of Natural History in Manhattan, with interactive exhibits that appeal to all ages.
The trails, however, are the main draw—a mix of paths for cycling, walking, and horseback riding, plus cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in winter. Along the way, some 30 observation platforms have been set up to afford visitors a vantage point for spotting birds and other wildlife. The rare golden-ringed warbler is one of 116 species known to breed here; also of note are the 2,500 mergansers that descend on Bantam Lake in December. The most popular trail is Little Pond Boardwalk, a 1.5-mile wood path over the water and wetlands of the pond. There are campgrounds on-site, and educational programs, events, and guided walks are offered year-round.
Very much a Litchfield Hills take on agriculture, Arethusa Farm (556 S. Plains Rd., 860/567-8270, www.arethusafarm.com) was founded by a pair of executives from Manolo Blahnik—a shoe company famed for exorbitant prices. Here, cows’ tails are shampooed with Pantene Pro V, and the animals live in pristine white barns. Tours of the farm are held 12:30pm-2:30pm each Saturday, or you can stop by Arethusa Farm Dairy (822 Bantam Rd., Bantam, 860/361-6600, 10am-8pm Sun.-Thurs., 10am-10pm Fri.-Sat.) to taste milk and ice cream from the pampered bovines.
Litchfield’s annual Gallery on the Green (860/567-8298, www.jwclitchfieldhills.org, June) isn’t a permanent gallery, but a yearly installment of around 100 artists and artisans who set up shop to exhibit original watercolors, oil paintings, jewelry, and other crafts. The Litchfield Jazz Festival (Goshen County Fairgrounds, 116 Old Middle Rd./Rte. 63, Goshen, 860/567-4162, www.litchfieldjazzfest.com, Aug.) has drawn an impressive roster of jazz greats like Dave Brubeck and Diana Krall for music under the stars since 1996.
Jeffrey Tillou Antiques (39 West St., 860/567-9693, www.tillouantiques.com, 10:30am-5pm Mon. and Wed.-Sat., 11am-4:30pm Sun.), on the Litchfield Green, specializes in fine 18th- and early 19th-century American furniture and paintings. Selling both new and antique furniture, art, and gift items, Housatonic Trading Company (920 Bantam Rd., Bantam, 860/361-6299, www.housatonictradingcompany.com, 8am-5pm Mon.-Tues. and Thurs.-Sun.) also operates a café offering coffee and panini.
Look for the store with large white columns on the Litchfield Green and enter the fresh and colorful world of Oliphant Design (29 West St., 860/567-8199, http://oliphantdesign.com, 11am-5:30pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-6pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun.), which sells women’s and children’s clothing, jewelry, and home decor. The name Hayseed (On the Green, 860/567-8775, 11am-5pm Mon.-Tues., 10am-5pm Wed.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.) is strictly tongue-in-cheek, as this “country couture” clothing store stocks the latest high-fashion items no self-respecting woman with a second home in the Litchfield Hills would be without. Think Ralph Lauren and then some.
Half an hour north of town, Dennis Hill State Park (Norfolk, www.litchfieldhills.com) is a favorite destination for walkers. The two-mile Romantic Ramble at Dennis Hill loop trail leads to a hilltop gazebo with sweeping views of the Litchfield Hills. From there, you can continue to the top of 1,627-foot Dennis Hill to look across three states—Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Vermont—from an observation platform on the roof of a once-grand bungalow.
The Litchfield Hills area is a fantasyland for bikers, where hilly climbs and long, winding back roads lead to white-steepled churches and country stores. The Bicycle Tour Company (9 Bridge St., Kent, 888/711-5368, www.bicycletourcompany.com) offers guided tours of the northwestern corner of the state, including both of Connecticut’s covered bridges. Rentals are $25 per day, $75 per week, with specials for families and other groups.
If you’re up for a 49-mile route, The West as It Gets Ride (Kent, www.ctbikeroutes.org) travels through Lime Rock, Lakeville, and Sharon and also visits Duchess County, New York, traveling mainly on roads with low car traffic.
Relax after all that shopping in one of the plush treatment rooms at The Spa at Litchfield Hills (407 Bantam Rd., Litchfield, 860/567-8575, www.litchfield-spa.com, 9am-6pm Mon.-Thurs., 9am-7pm Fri., 9am-6pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.). There, the detoxifying Moor mud bath or the one-hour whirlpool pedicure will restore all your energies for the next shopping trip.
Highly acclaimed and for good reason, S West Street Grill (38 West St., 860/567-3885, www.weststreetgrill.com, lunch: 11:30am-2:30pm Mon. & Wed.-Fri, 11:30am-3:30pm Sat.-Sun; dinner: 5:30pm-9pm Sun. & Wed.-Thu, 5:30pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., $23-42) is a little bit of big city in the country—a contemporary, buzzing bistro on Litchfield Green, with the requisite exposed brick and distressed wooden floors. Global flavors are the kitchen’s focus, which translates to specialties such as pan-seared scallops with celery root and fire-roasted salmon with heirloom tomatoes. There are always vegan choices, and a top-notch wine list is also offered. Check ahead to find out the schedule for popular “bistro nights,” with an affordable prix fixe menu and wine specials.
Arethusa Farm is behind the fine-dining restaurant Arethusa al Tavolo (828 Bantam Rd, Bantam, 860/567-0043, www.arethusaaltavolo.com, 5:30pm-9pm Wed.-Thurs., 5:30pm-10pm Fri., 11:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-10pm Sat., 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-8:30pm Sun., $30-39), whose chef Dan Magill trained under Daniel Boulud. Small and stellar, this gem offers dishes such as roasted local striped bass and ravioli filled with spinach and Arethusa camembert.
Calling itself the “weirdest restaurant in Litchfield County and quite possibly the world,” Bohemian Pizza (342 Bantam Rd., 860/567-3980, 11:30am-8:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-9:30pm Fri.-Sat., 11:30am-7:30pm Sun., $15-21) tries hard to live up to the name, with an energetic young vibe and decor ranging from a canoe to Holstein-patterned seats. The little restaurant is serious about its pizza, however, turning out awesomely good pies topped with everything from sun-dried tomatoes to andouille sausage, alongside a full menu of pastas, meal salads, and other simple-but-tasty entrées.
With a menu that changes daily, Winvian (155 Alain White Rd., Morris, 860/567-9600, http://winvian.com, 6:30pm-9pm Wed.-Fri., 12:30pm-2pm and 6:30pm-9pm Sat.-Sun., $98-115 prix fixe) expertly prepares creative three-course meals such as a crudo of kampachi starter, hand-rolled ravioli filled with guinea hen and chestnut as a pasta course, followed by a duo of braised short rib and New York strip steak. A series of charming dining rooms with fireplaces are decorated with antiques, oil paintings, and Oriental rugs, enveloping diners in the warmth of a 1775 farmhouse. The restaurant is part of a unique hotel that hosts guests in creatively themed cottages; guests must announce themselves at the gate.
Known for its fresh seafood and warm-weather patio dining, Saltwater Grille (26 Commons Dr., 860/567-4900, www.litchfieldsaltwatergrille.org, 4pm-8:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-9:30pm Fri.-Sat., 11:30am-8:30pm Sun., $18-42) is a casual, hopping spot with fun items like Oysters Saltafeller (baked with a spinach-artichoke cream and topped with bacon) and classics such as seared tuna. A jazz band is a welcome addition to Sunday dinners. Non-fish eaters and kids will find options as well.
The colonial-style Litchfield Inn (432 Bantam Rd./U.S. 202, 860/567-4503, www.litchfieldinnct.com, $161-339) is actually a recently built hotel with modern amenities operated by Best Western. There are 32 accommodations, including 12 themed rooms such as Log Cabin and Contessa. The on-site restaurant, Tavern Off the Green, serves quite good modern American fare.
The Sachem Farmhouse Bed & Breakfast (15 Hopkins Rd., Warren, 860/868-0359, www.thesachemfarmhouse.com, $200-310) overlooks Lake Waramaug and is next to Hopkins Vineyard. The elegantly decorated 1870 farmhouse has four guest rooms, two with private baths; the other two share a hall bath. Guests are invited to meet the sheep and the guard donkey named Georgia on this working sheep farm.
Among the area’s most exclusive and luxurious options, Winvian (155 Alain White Rd., Morris, 860/567-9600, http://winvian.com, $549-1,500) has 18 themed cottages nestled on 113 acres. A real helicopter inside your cottage outfitted with a bar and TV is one option; another is a tree house perched 35 feet above the forest floor. Brainchild of a variety of designers, the cabins are all very different, but each has a deep Jacuzzi tub, shower, fireplace, and a private outdoor space such as a screened-in patio or deck, plus bicycles to explore the area.
The Northwest Connecticut Convention & Visitors Bureau (860/567-4506, www.litchfieldhills.com) runs an information booth on the village green, open unreliably May-October.
Litchfield is located about 30 miles west of Hartford on Route 202. The closest public transit goes to Waterbury: Metro North (800/638-7646, www.mta.info) runs trains while Peter Pan Bus Lines (800/343-9999, www.peterpanbus.com) offers bus service. CT Transit (www.cttransit.com) has local bus service within Waterbury (203/753-2538) and Bristol (203/327-7433), but in the Litchfield Hills, having your own car is almost essential. Car service is available from Kelly Transit (30 Railroad Sq., Torrington, 860/489-9243, www.kellytransit.com).
Incorporated during the Revolutionary War, in 1777, the picturesque little town of Washington made the ultimate gesture of loyalty by naming itself after the Continental Army’s general-in-chief. (The town was originally called Judea.) Like the towns around it, Washington has its share of restored colonial houses—however, nature here tends to outshine anything people have built. The town has garnered a reputation for putting on one of the best foliage displays every year, with sugar maple, scarlet oak, beech, and honey locust trees each contributing their unique colors to the palette. Washington Village is arranged around an attractive green with its own picturesque clapboard church, and just down the hill is Washington Depot, the town’s commercial center.
A highlight of the Institute for American Indian Studies (38 Curtis Rd., 860/868-0518, www.iaismuseum.org, 10am-5pm Wed.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun., $10 adults, $8 seniors, $6 children 3-12) is a life-sized 16th-century Algonquain village, complete with three wigwams, a longhouse, and a native plant garden. The dedicated, knowledgeable staff at this research and education center discuss the history of area Native Americans (ask about the tribe that has a quarter acre in Trumbull), explain customs and traditions, demonstrate how they measured the calendar year with the shell of a snapping turtle, and so much more. Fascinating rotating exhibitions about Native people from across the United States include artwork, crafts, and clothing. Several trails allow easy exploration of the 15-acre wooded property.
In nearby Washington Depot, the Washington Art Association (4 Bryan Memorial Plaza, Washington Depot, 860/868-2878, www.washingtonart.org, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat., 10am-2pm Sun., free) is a top-notch exhibitor of local artwork. The association holds regular gallery openings, as well as art classes, speakers, and a popular holiday sale.
Over Columbus Day weekend, Washington holds a Design & Antiques Show to support the local library, which also has a museum dedicated to area history. No small affair, the 2017 event featured 18 dealers, two parties, and Cornelia Guest as the honorary chair. Around Halloween, the Gunn Memorial Library and Museum (5 Wykeham Rd., 860/868-7756, www.gunnlibrary.org) leads a popular evening cemetery tour, with costumed actors bringing notable past residents to life.
The quaint commercial center of Washington Depot is anchored by the Hickory Stick Bookshop (2 Green Hill Rd., Washington Depot, 860/868-0525, www.hickorystickbookshop.com, 9am-5:30pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.), the area’s cultural hub, with well-stocked shelves of contemporary fiction and nonfiction books. The shop also hosts numerous local-author readings. Authors with Litchfield Hills homes who have read here in the past include Arthur Miller, Madeleine L’Engle, and William Styron.
With a blend of country charm and urban sophistication, Marty’s Café (6 Green Hill Rd./Rte. 47, Washington Depot, 860/868-1700, http://m.mainstreethub.com/martyscafe, 7am-5pm daily, $7-16) is a stylish espresso bar with enough rustic touches to remind you that you are in the sticks. In addition to Wi-Fi and racks full of newspapers, it offers up creative sandwiches—try the trio of sliders with pulled pork, portobello and goat cheese, and turkey club with bacon.
The staid name aside, Mayflower Dining Room (118 Woodbury Rd./Rte. 47, 860/868-9466, www.gracehotels.com/mayflower, noon-2pm and 6pm-9pm Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., noon-2pm and 6pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., $16-54) is a white-tablecloth joint that overlooks the beautiful Shakespeare Garden at the elegant Grace Mayflower Inn. An appetizer of Japanese hamachi crudo and trout roe can be followed by rack of lamb with foraged ramps. There’s also the more casual, dimly lit Tap Room, where you can get a burger if the mood strikes.
George Washington never slept at G. W. Tavern (20 Bee Brook Rd., Washington Depot, 860/868-6633, www.gwtavern.com, 11:30am-9pm Sun.-Tues. and Thurs., 11:30am-10pm Fri.-Sat., $13-36), but the casual pub and eatery does everything it can to honor him, with a framed picture of you-know-who over the fireplace and a bust overlooking the light and airy dining room. After a full day of leaf-peeping, a piping-hot crock of French onion soup topped with gooey gruyère cheese is just the ticket. Entrées like ground-pork meatloaf and chicken potpie are similarly comfort-food oriented. Specials are updated nightly online.
The Grace Mayflower Inn and Spa (118 Woodbury Rd./Rte. 47, 860/868-9466, www.gracehotels.com/mayflower, $565-1,765) invites superlatives. A Relais & Chateaux property, it is a sublimely elegant hotel with a stunning destination spa (for guests only), indoor and outdoor pools, sophisticated dining, and beautiful gardens (the American Poets’ Garden is on one side of the Grace Mayflower and the Shakespeare Garden is on the other—get it?). There are 30 accommodations in four buildings that range 368-1,200 square feet; some have a balcony, fireplace, and/or sitting area. A putting green and tennis courts add to the amenities in the warmer weather; the hotel can provide cross-country skis and snowshoes in winter to explore its 58 acres. Children under 12 are not allowed except at the restaurants.
A sophisticated and intimate Dutch Colonial country house overlooking a nature preserve, Hidden Valley Bed and Breakfast (226 Bee Brook Rd., 860/868-9401, www.hiddenvalleyct.com, $260-280) has three guest rooms and a heated plunge pool. For more privacy, choose the ground-floor Red Guest Suite, which has a private entry and kitchenette. In the main house, the Blue Master Bedroom’s draws are a thermal spa bath and sweeping valley views. If you are traveling with a child, there’s a daybed in the Green Bedroom.
Unusual for a bed-and-breakfast with only two rooms, the Orange Gild Bed and Breakfast and Spa (137 Nichols Hill Rd., 860/868-9636, www.orangegild.com, $300-350) has a sauna for guests’ use. And not only one sauna but a Finnish sauna, an infrared sauna, and a steam shower. These spa experiences are included in the rate as is breakfast, which usually includes Dutch beschuit, fruit, a smoothie, and freshly baked Dutch pastries like puddingbroodje (the proprietors are from the Netherlands). Rooms are large and have a king bed and private bath. There’s a whirlpool in one and an additional twin bed in the other.
It looks like an unremarkable motel from the street, but most of the rooms at the Rocky River Inn (236 Kent Rd., New Milford, 860/355-3208, www.therockyriverinn.com, $92-202) are refreshingly contemporary in design. On 10 acres on the Housatonic River and near Candlewood Lake, this 36-room property has multiple room categories; the ones called economy are less expensive and have not received the upgrades the ones in the luxury class have.
On the town green, the Homestead Inn (Elm St., New Milford, 860/354-4080, www.homesteadct.com, $109-249) renovated rooms in its two buildings—the 1853 Homestead B&B (no children under 13) and the 1938 Treadwell House—in 2016. Book the Marilyn Monroe Suite if you’re a fan: She actually stayed here. Rooms are individually decorated and are more sophisticated in the B&B. Treadwell accommodations are more kid-friendly, with sleeper sofas, bunk beds, and the like.
Washington is located 1 hour west of Hartford on diminutive Route 47, and is a 70- minute drive from New Haven. There is currently no public transit to Washington.
With more of a downtown to explore than elsewhere in the Litchfield Hills, Kent’s population of 3,000 swells with out-of-towners on the weekends. In the 19th century, Kent was an industrial town, producing pig iron, but that gritty past has given way to galleries and design stores supported by the thriving creative community. A few traces of the old days are on display at a pair of museums that explore the years of iron smelting and mining, and there’s plenty of hiking nearby, including Connecticut’s only covered bridges and the state’s highest waterfall.
Once the home of artist, author, and collector Eric Sloane, Eric Sloane Museum & Kent Iron Furnace (31 Kent-Cornwall Road/Rte. 7, 860/927-3849, www.ericsloane.com/museum.htm, 10am-4pm Fri.-Sun. May-Oct., $8 adults, $6 seniors over 59 and college students, $5 children 6-17, children under 6 free) reconstructs Sloane’s studio and displays his extensive collection of early tools that are examples of great American craftsmanship. Also on-site are a pioneer cabin built by Sloane using information in Noah Blake’s 1805 Diary of an Early American Boy, and the remains of the Kent Iron Furnace, which operated 1826-1892.
The Connecticut Antique Machinery (31 Kent Cornwall Rd., 860/927-0050, www.ctamachinery.com, 10am-4pm Wed.-Sun. May-Oct., free, donations welcome) museum, which shares a driveway with the Sloane Museum, explores the history of the state’s mining operations for iron, copper, garnets, marble, limestone, basalt, and brownstone, as well as local clay deposits and brickmaking operations. There’s an extensive collection of Connecticut minerals and a special exhibit about how Native Americans used quartz and other materials from the earth to make tools.
Connecticut’s first farm brewery, Kent Falls Brewing Company (33 Camps Rd., 860/398-9645, http://kentfallsbrewing.com, 2pm-7pm Thurs.-Fri., noon-5pm Sat., farm tours 2pm Sat.) was established in 2014 on the 50-acre mixed-use Camps Road Farm, land that has been in continuous agricultural use for more than 250 years. Brews range from IPAs and lagers, with a few offbeat options like the sour wheat Meyer lemon and shaved coconut-infused lemon coconut gose (whew!).
The Connecticut Antique Machinery’s Fall Festival (www.ctamachinery.com, Sept.) attracts thousands of people to see steam engines, farm equipment, and blacksmiths at work, while shops display creative gingerbread structures during the Kent Gingerbread Festival (www.kentctgingerbreadfest.com, Dec.).
A community hub with frequent readings by local authors, House of Books (10 N. Main St., 10am-5pm Mon.-Thurs., 10am-5:30pm Fri.-Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.) is also a trove of information about the region, from free tourist booklets to hiking guides and children’s books.
For going on 100 years, the Kent Art Association Gallery (21 S. Main St., 860/927-3989, www.kentart.org, 1pm-5pm Thurs.-Sun. Mar.-Oct,) has showcased the works of emerging and established artists, and organizes art-related programs. Its calendar is active throughout the year, so check the website for updates.
The high-profile Morrison Gallery (25 N. Main St., 860/927-4501, www.morrisongallery.com, 11am-5pm Thurs.-Sat., 1pm-4pm Sun.) showcases contemporary and modern paintings and sculpture. At press time, a larger gallery with outdoor space able to exhibit large-scale sculpture and installations was under construction at 60 North Main Street.
Close your eyes and say the name R.T. Facts (22 S. Main St. and 8 Old Barn Rd./Kent Barns, 860/927-1700, http://rtfacts.com, 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.)—the “artifacts” in question are a collection of eclectic furniture, lighting, garden and architectural details, and lots of unique objects. Some items are antiques and others are made locally. The Main Street shop has three buildings and garden spaces; the 7,000-square-foot museum-like showroom in the Kent Barns collection of businesses is two blocks away.
Whimsical handcrafted ceramics, jewelry, clothing, glass items, rugs, and sculpture have kept Heron American Craft Gallery (16 N. Main St., 860/927-4804, http://heroncraftgallery.com, 11am-5pm daily) a destination for shoppers for 30 years. Kids of all ages will get a kick out of a specially curated selection of “unusual playthings.”
There are two covered bridges open to cars in Connecticut, and both are in the Litchfield Hills. For a great view of one of them plus a hike on a portion of the Appalachian Trail, do the four-mile Bull’s Bridge River Walk (www.litchfieldhills.com) that links Bull’s Bridge with Anderson Memorial Bridge, following the Housatonic River.
The state’s highest waterfall is in Kent Falls State Park (Rte. 7, www.ct.gov/deep/kentfalls), a 250-foot cascade reached by an easy 0.25-mile trail with a few steep sections. It passes through a covered bridge that was built in 1974 for foot traffic only.
covered bridge in Kent Falls State Park
A small, family-friendly spot, Mohawk Mountain Ski Area (46 Great Hollow Rd., Cornwall, 860/672-6100, www.mohawkmtn.com, 9:30am-8pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-10pm Thurs.-Fri., 8:30am-10pm Sat., 8:30am-4pm Sun., $64 ages 16 and over, $56 children 5-15, $15 children under 5) is regarded as having the best skiing in the state. There’s no terrain park, but the ski instruction is comprehensive for a variety of experience levels. An alternative to the cafeteria in the main lodge is the full-service ski-in, ski-out restaurant partway up the mountain on Pine Trail.
A town fixture, the Fife ’n Drum (53 N. Main St., 860/967-3509, http://fifendrum.com, 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-9:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., 11am-8:30pm Sun., $23-36) is the kind of old-school place that tosses Caesar salad and flambés duck tableside. There’s live music on Friday evenings and 13 rooms available in the inn upstairs.
At Kingsley Tavern (14 N. Main St., 860/592-0261, http://kingsleytavern.com, 5pm-9pm Wed.-Thurs., 5pm-9:30pm Fri., 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-9:30pm Sat., 11:30am-8pm Sun., $10-28), kids are happy with burgers, and adults gravitate to the jerk chicken and Saigon sandwich made with pork, shrimp, or tofu on a baguette with pickled daikon, cucumber, jalapeño, and spicy mayo. Grab a table outside in nice weather to watch the comings and goings of the town. Reservations are accepted only for parties of five or more.
Specializing in seasonal, New American cuisine from high-end local provisioners, Gifford’s (9 Maple St., 860/592-0262, http://giffordsrestaurant.com, 5pm-9pm Fri., noon-9pm Sat., 11am-7pm Sun., $18-36) is around the corner from Kent’s main drag. Surprises like chicken and waffles and pad thai enliven a menu of American standards such as pan-roasted scallops and lemon chicken. Everything is prepared in-house, from the bread to the desserts.
Set on two acres in the middle of downtown, Starbuck Inn (88 N. Main St., 860/927-1788, http://starbuckinn.com, $207-267) goes the extra mile, offering a daily afternoon tea and a thoughtful breakfast. Six guest rooms each feature a custom-built armoire, Frette linens and towels, a pillow-top mattress, and a private bath. There’s a queen bed and shower in three rooms, and two rooms have king beds and a bathtub/shower; the king suite’s main appeals are its private entry, comfortable living area, and large walk-in shower.
For more space and accommodations for more than two people, a good option is The Amselhaus (6 Rug Rd., Cornwall, 860/248-3155, www.theamselhaus.com, $175-325). The two multi-floor suites each has a kitchen, living room, dining room, porch, and private entrance. There are two bedrooms plus a sleeper sofa in the South Suite, and the North Suite has three bedrooms. An 1830 farmhouse, the inn is 13 minutes from Kent and four miles from Cornwall’s famous covered bridge, near Mohawk Mountain.
Consistently voted the best B&B in the state, The Inn at Kent Falls (107 Kent Cornwall Rd., 860/927-3197, www.theinnatkentfalls.com, $245-385) is a sophisticated, welcoming home dating to the 1700s but renovated and updated with private baths and modern amenities. There are three smaller rooms plus four suites that have sitting areas and additions like a fireplace and daybed. Professionally designed gardens with walking paths, an outdoor pool, and a patio add to its charms; cooler temperatures find guests gathering by the fireplaces and piano in the common rooms.
The Kent Chamber of Commerce (860/592-0061, http://kentct.com) has an informative website and produces a comprehensive pocket guide to the area, including maps, business listings, and a calendar of events. Pick one up around town—House of Books usually has it in stock.
Kent is located at the intersection of Route 341 and Route 7, by the New York border. It’s 80 minutes from Hartford, and 90 minutes from New Haven. There is currently no public transit to Kent.
A satellite photo of the eastern seaboard at night shows the entire coast from Washington DC to Boston lit up like a Christmas tree—except one small portion, the northeastern corner of Connecticut. Tucked into a pocket between the big cities of Worcester, Hartford, and Providence, the upper-right corner of the state has been called the “last green valley” for its miles of wooded back roads and romantically decayed farmhouses and stone walls. While that may be a bit of hyperbole, the area’s other nickname, the “Quiet Corner,” seems just about right. The pace of life is quieter here, with a country-store mentality that seems more like Vermont than Connecticut.
Not that the Quiet Corner was always so quiet; back at the turn of the 19th century, the area’s swift-flowing rivers and proximity to the early mill industry of Rhode Island meant that it was one of the first areas to industrialize. For decades, the Quinebaug River currents churned the wheels of textile mills of manufacturing centers like Putnam and Willimantic until they gradually fell into disuse in the 20th century.
Named in honor of Revolutionary War hero General Israel Putnam, who was from nearby Brooklyn, Connecticut, Putnam was incorporated in 1855. The town flourished in the 19th century as a center for textile production, with cotton mills providing clothing to Civil War troops. Located on the Quinebaug River and with a railroad line crossing the town, Putnam was ideally placed for industry. The river hasn’t always been a benevolent force, however. Two massive floods in 1955 devastated Putnam, but it bounced back with a focus on antiques dealers. Since the antiques trade dissipated in the last decade or so due to Ebay and other digital retail platforms, Putnam has diversified into arts and crafts venues, boutiques, and a variety of restaurants and bars, and also stages festivals and events that bring people downtown.
If you’re a fan of Gertrude Chandler’s children’s book series The Boxcar Children, climbing into an actual boxcar across the street from the author’s childhood home will be a thrill. At the Boxcar Museum (1 S. Main St., no phone, http://boxcarchildrenmuseum.com, 11am-4pm Sat.-Sun. mid-May-mid-Oct., free but donations appreciated), visitors will find a collection of original signed books, photos, and artifacts from the author’s life, and a re-creation of the Boxcar Children’s living space.
The largest winery in Connecticut, Sharpe Hill Vineyard (108 Wade Rd., 860/974-3549, www.sharpehill.com, 11am-5pm Fri.-Sun., tastings $10-15) has racked up awards for a wide range of wines, which include everything from Riesling to cabernet franc. It’s a lovely spot, and worth a stop to enjoy wines with views of the rolling vineyards, which turn rusty in autumn.
Ten minutes south of Putnam, the small town of Killingly is also worth a stroll—in the borough of Danielson, Main Street is filled with shops, and you’ll find one of the area’s most interesting breweries: Black Pond Brews (21 Furnace St., Danielson, 860/207-5295, www.blackpondbrews.com, 5pm-8pm Thurs.-Fri., 3pm-8pm Sat., 1pm-5pm Sun.) mixes up small batches of everything from American IPAs to a jalapeño saison.
A restored century-old vaudeville theater in the heart of Putnam’s antiques district, Bradley Playhouse (30 Front St./Rte. 44, 860/928-7887, www.bradleyplayhouse.org, shows $19 adults, $15 students and seniors, musicals $23 adults, $20 students and seniors) plays host to amateur drama and musicals. You can hear live music six days a week at The Stomping Ground (132 Main St., 860/928-7900, www.the-stomping-ground.com, 11am-1am Tues.-Sun.), across the street from the Bradley. Potpies and grilled cheese with creative ingredients set the tone for the eclectic food menu.
A mind-boggling selection awaits at Antiques Marketplace (109 Main St., 860/928-0442, 10am-5pm Wed.-Mon.), the largest and most diverse antiques mall around. Pore over goods in more than 325 exhibits on four floors, including furniture, art, jewelry, and collectibles from seemingly every time period and several continents. The same owners curate Jeremiah’s Antique Shops (26 Front St., 860/928-0666, www.facebook.com/jeremiahsantiques, 10am-5pm Wed.-Mon.), which sells the wares of 70 dealers, with everything from estate jewelry to comic books.
A large arts collective selling paintings, ceramics, sculptures, notecards, scarves, and more from local artists and artisans, Silver Circle Art Center (75 Main St., Ste. 3, 860/928-2900, www.silvercirclegallery.com, noon-4pm Sun. and Wed.-Thurs., 11am-5pm Fri.-Sat.) is an impressive display of local talent. Locally made, vividly glazed bowls and platters line the shelves at Sawmill Pottery (112 Main St. #14, 860/963-7807, www.sawmillpottery.com, 10am-4pm Mon. and Sat., 10am-9pm Tues.-Thurs., 10am-8pm Fri., noon-4pm Sun.), which also offers studio sessions and classes.
Tracing a 26-mile path from Putnam to Pomfret, the Air Line State Park Trail (860/928-6121, www.ct.gov/deep) follows a former railroad bed through pretty farms and woodlands. Both Putnam and Killingly have paved riverfront paths for walking and cycling. The Putnam River Mills Heritage Trail winds for 1 mile between Pomfret and Providence streets; the town’s history and historic mill buildings are explained via signs. Pick up Killingly’s 3.5-mile trail at the parking lot on Water Street, off Route 12.
The roads in the region are particularly good for cycling, with sparse traffic, gentle grades, and scenery with every mile. The brochure Northeast Connecticut’s Bike Guide details 10 self-guided loops through the region. Bikes can be rented at Scott’s Cyclery (1171 Main St., Willimantic, 860/423-8889, www.scottscyclery.com).
The Vanilla Bean Café (450 Deerfield Rd., Pomfret, 860/928-1562, www.thevanillabeancafe.com, 7am-3pm Mon.-Tues., 7am-8pm Wed.-Thurs., 7am-9pm Fri., 8am-9pm Sat., 8am-8pm Sun., $7-14) has been the center of life in sleepy Pomfret since 1989. At the juncture of Routes 169, 97, and 44, the 90-seat Vanilla Bean is a gathering place for a great cup of coffee (try the Nutella latte), freshly made sandwiches, and burgers; plus it hosts folk, blues, and jazz musicians on Saturday evenings.
In a former train station, The Crossings (45 Main St., 860/928-3663, http://crossingsbrewpub.com, 11:30am-11pm daily, $7-21) is a large, casual restaurant with high, pressed-tin ceilings. It serves several of its own beers and elevated pub grub like the standout seasonal BLT lobster roll, made with fresh Maine lobster.
Ice cream lovers will not want to walk past Victoria Station Café (91 Main St., 860/928-2600, www.victoriastationcafe.com, 6am-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 6am-11pm Fri., 8am-11pm Sat., 8am-9pm Sun., $6-18) without ordering a cone. About 30 homemade flavors change often but might include ginger peach, caramel apple, and limoncello. Coffee, pastries, and light lunch items like quiche and stuffed croissants invite lingering. Upstairs is a space for live music.
A family-owned seasonal food stand that’s been serving cheap and tasty burgers, hot dogs, chicken, seafood, and ice cream since 1937, Deary Bros. Mike’s Stand (12 Intervale St., 860/928-1191, www.dearybrosmikesstand.com, 11am-9:30pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-11pm Fri.-Sat. mid-Apr.-mid-Sept., $3-23) is a local institution. Order at the window and enjoy your fried goodness—including the unusual options of grilled cheese and tuna, pepper steak, and a choice of bay or sea scallops—or handcrafted ice cream like Dinosaur Crunch and Bubble Gum, at a picnic table.
A restaurant that embodies the Quiet Corner experience, Golden Lamb Buttery (499 Wolf Den Rd., Brooklyn, 860/774-4423, http://thegoldenlamb.com, noon-2:30pm Thurs., noon-2:30pm and 7pm-9pm Fri.-Sat., $75 prix fixe dinner, à la carte lunch entrées range $12-17) offers a hayride through its picturesque farm, wine on the terrace overlooking the pond and a pasture with roaming horses, and a prix fixe meal in a rustic barn. The restaurant, which is roughly 15 minutes south of Putnam, is on the 1,000-acre Hillandale Farm, which supports sheep, cows, and donkeys, grows herbs and vegetables, and has trails that guests are welcome to explore.
It’s worth planning ahead to snag the single cottage at the S Inn at Fox Hill Farm (760 Pomfret St., Pomfret Center, 860/928-5240, www.innatfoxhillfarm.weebly.com, $215), a romantic escape whose private back deck overlooks the farm’s pretty lake. Rates include a hearty breakfast prepared by the friendly innkeepers, and the cottage’s fridge is stocked with complimentary snacks.
The tastefully decorated colonial revival Gwyn Careg Inn (68 Wolf Den Rd., Pomfret Center, 860/928-5018, http://gwyncareginn.com, $150-200) sits on 14 acres that include a large pond and a Spanish garden surrounded by 10-foot stone walls. One of the six guest accommodations is furnished with two twin beds; the rest are suites with a sitting area, and two even have two separate bedrooms. All have a private bath and come with a full country breakfast.
The Route 169 corridor is promoted by the nonprofit The Last Green Valley (107 Providence St., 860/963-7226 or 866/363-7226, www.thelastgreenvalley.org), which runs a well-stocked information center in downtown Putnam. Operating from Putnam, WINY Radio (860/928-1350, www.winyradio.com) is a useful source of up-to-the-minute information about Putnam and all of eastern Connecticut. Find it online or at 1350 AM. The Putnam Business Association runs an informative website at www.discoverputnam.com.
Putnam is in northeastern Connecticut on Route 21, a short distance from Interstate 395. It’s 1 hour from Hartford, and 1.5 hours from New Haven.
The 8,000 residents of this rural community are spread across 62 square miles, so exploring feels like a true taste of rural life. A farming town in the 18th century, Woodstock became known for the summer parties of its most famous resident, Henry Bowen, whose oddball Victorian house is now the area’s main tourist draw.
The first thing you notice about the quirky Victorian Roseland Cottage/Bowen House (556 Rte. 169, 860/928-4074, www.historicnewengland.org, tours hourly 11am-4pm Wed.-Sun. June-mid-Oct., $10 adults, $9 seniors, $5 students) is the color: bright rose pink. In fact, that was the original shade that Henry Bowen painted the cottage, which he gave as a gift to his wife, a lover of roses. The building is now the country’s best surviving model of the Gothic Revival architecture that was all the rage for a brief period of time in the mid-19th century. The exterior is all quatrefoils and balustrades, and the interior feels more like a cathedral, with high ceilings and stained glass in the parlors.
Roseland Cottage/Bowen House
Today the home is owned by Historic New England, which has restored the house. Because the home was continuously in the hands of the family, all the furniture and artwork is original to the house—a rarity in house museums. As a special treat, don’t miss the 19th-century bowling alley, with wooden pins and balls, in a barn on the property.
One of the oldest one-room schoolhouses in America, Quasset School (Frog Pond Rd., off Rte. 171, 860/968-0208, www.townofwoodstock.com, 1pm-4pm Sun. July-Aug.) held classes 1690-1944. As a wonderful connection to history, the town’s third graders even today spend a week in the school, which is close to the Woodstock Elementary School.
Lynda Hennigan re-creates 19th-century sailors’ valentines that she sells in her eponymous Lynda Susan Hennigan gallery (1089 Rte. 169, 860/315-5334, www.lyndasusanhennigan.com, open Sat.-Sun., call for hours). Formerly a blacksmith shop, post office, and auto repair shop, Scranton’s Shops (300 Rte. 169, South Woodstock, 860/928-3738, www.scrantonsshops.com, 11am-5pm Wed.-Mon.) has 85 dealers selling antiques, furniture, collectibles, art, and crafts.
At the Woodstock Fair (281 CT-169, 860/928-3246, http://woodstockfair.com, Labor Day weekend), everything from cattle to guinea pigs and giant vegetables to quilts are entered into competition. Carnival rides, a horse show, and a barnyard babies birthing center add to the fun.
A roadside favorite, with big slices of pie and an old-fashioned menu, Sweet Evalina’s Stand (688 Rte. 169, 860/928-4029, www.sweetevalinas.com, 7am-8pm daily, $5-11) is perfect for getting a glimpse of local life. Farmers belly up to big burgers or bowls of chili, or just opt for ice cream at an outdoor picnic table. Both of the following accommodations also have on-site restaurants.
Built by a Bowen, as was Roseland Cottage, The Mansion at Bald Hill (29 Plaine Hill Rd., 860/974-3456, www.mansionatbaldhill.com, $140-230) is a Victorian home with six guest rooms and a restaurant that’s open to the public. The four-story landmark sits on 90 acres, with extensive gardens and hosts many weddings and private events.
Of the 21 guest rooms at the Inn at Woodstock Hill (94 Plaine Hill Rd., 860/928-0528, www.woodstockhill.com, $160-260), eight rooms have working gas fireplaces and six have four-poster beds. Other accommodations in this white clapboard house built in 1816 include a separate sitting areas, cedar bathrooms, skylights, or cathedral ceilings. A beautiful patio overlooks the expansive grounds. If you’re traveling with a group, the three-bedroom guest cottage next door is a great option. Continental breakfast is complimentary, and there’s a fine-dining restaurant on the premises. This former home was built for the grandson of the Roseland Cottage Bowen.
The Woodstock Business Association (www.explorewoodstock.com) produces a brochure that’s downloadable from its informative website.
To get to the Quiet Corner by car, take I-395 south from Worcester (30 miles or 40 minutes to Putnam); U.S. 6 west from Hartford (30 miles or 40 minutes to Willimantic); or U.S. 6 east from Providence (30 miles or 50 minutes to Brooklyn).
Windham Region Transit District’s (860/456-2223, www.wrtd.net) service area includes Ashford, Chaplin, Columbia, Coventry, Lebanon, Mansfield, Scotland, Willington, and Windham, none of which gets you exactly to the Quiet Corner. A car is necessary to explore this region.