Block Island wildflowers
PAWTUCKET AND THE BLACKSTONE VALLEY
Narragansett Town Beach.
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Rhode Island School of Design Museum: Set on the campus of the design school, this museum’s remarkable collection ranges from jewelry worked by ancient artists to modern installations (see click here).
S WaterFire: Watch downtown Providence light up as floating braziers ignite on the city’s rivers (see click here).
S Newport’s Mansions: Channel the 19th-century elite while visiting summer homes that combine Gilded Age glamour, exquisite art, and monumentally bad taste (click here).
S Cliff Walk: Stroll between the mansions and the sea on this seven-mile walking path (click here).
S South County Beaches: Paddle into the waves at Narragansett Town Beach or bring your binocs to Napatree Hill—the barrier beaches of the southern coast have something for everyone (click here).
S Cycling Block Island: You’ll pass more bicycles than cars on your way around this tiny island, where almost half the land is in conservation (click here).
Nothing’s far from anywhere in this tiny state, but there’s a lot to explore in Little Rhody, whose coastline wraps around deep bays, islands, and inlets before taking a long, straight run at the edge of the Atlantic.
Barrier beaches draw summer crowds for surfing and sun, then turn beautifully vacant in the cooler months, perfect for spotting the migratory birds that flock to the coast.
Long overlooked by travelers, the capital city of Providence has cutting-edge art galleries alongside gorgeous historic architecture, while Newport’s Gilded Age mansions are fascinating temples to 19th-century gilt and gaud.
Founded by the theologian Roger Williams—who was kicked out of Massachusetts when his free thinking annoyed the Puritans—Rhode Island later became New England’s most prominent trafficker in African slaves, a trade that flourished after the first abolition law was passed in the colonies. Those contradictions between an independent identity, religious tolerance, inequality, and the legacy of slavery have shaped the state’s history and landscape, from rundown mill towns to moneyed enclaves.
At the northern end of Rhode Island, the Blackstone Valley was the birthplace of America’s Industrial Revolution, with churning mills that eventually turned the Blackstone River into the country’s most toxic waterway. Workers lived in appalling conditions, even as the up-and-coming barons of industry built their summertime palaces in Newport. In Providence, money from slavery helped lay the bricks of Brown University, long considered the most liberal of the Ivy League schools.
And there’s a milder contrariness that runs through Rhode Island, too, a delightful weirdness that draws the visitor in, from the spine-tingling writing of Providence writer H. P. Lovecraft to the legends behind Newport’s Touro Tower, and a lineup of offbeat foods that can only be found in the Ocean State.
With just a few days in Rhode Island, you can cover a lot of territory. Depending on whether you’re interested in city culture or historic mansions, Providence and Newport are the two logical bases for exploring, with the state’s beaches within easy day-tripping distance. Add a few more days to your itinerary and Block Island is in reach, ditching the day visitors on a two-night trip.
First things first—Rhode Island is not an island. Many of the state’s most important destinations are at the edge of the water, however, overwhelmingly clustered around Narragansett Bay, which extends to the outlet of the Providence River. Newport is on an island, the long isle of Aquidneck, linked to the mainland by a series of bridges.
Once overlooked and grimy, Providence is now among the most interesting cities in New England. A pair of landmark colleges draws creative students from around the world, and graduates that stay on inject a vibrancy visible in the thriving art scene, cafés, and up-and-coming neighborhoods.
Keep your head up as you walk through the historic center to see architectural detailing hidden in plain view above the bustling streets. There are statues tucked high over the sidewalks, elegant rooflines, and busts that have kept watch over the city through some long, lean years.
From the start, Providence has had an independent spirit. Roger Williams founded a colonial settlement here after getting kicked out of Puritanical Massachusetts for his religious beliefs, and Providence became the very first colony to declare independence from England in 1776.
The city retains a bit of grit and smoke from the long era when no tourist would head to Providence for a weekend away, but things were largely transformed by the legendary mayor Buddy Cianci, a force of nature with mob connections, a felony conviction, and a vision for the future. It’s a sign of the times that as Providence appears on lists of America’s coolest cities, some locals have begun to wax nostalgic about the old days—a reminder to visit Providence now, before it gets too clean and too cool entirely.
Browse art by ancient Egyptians and midcentury modern designers at the extraordinary Rhode Island School of Design Museum of Art (20 N. Main St., 401/454-6500, www.risdmuseum.org, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun., $12 adults, $10 seniors, $5 college students, $3 children 5-18, children under 5 free), usually simply called the RISD Museum (that’s ris-dee). The breadth of the collection is remarkable in itself, and it’s especially striking to see art and design from ancient Greece and Egypt, then travel through the centuries to cutting-edge work.
Another highlight is the enormous holdings of costumes and textiles, with the earliest clothing items dating back to 1500 BCE, and articles from historic Japan, the European Renaissance, and Native American groups.
Set high above the city, the Ivy League Brown University campus (Admission Office, 45 Prospect St., 401/863-1000, www.brown.edu) is the crest of the College Hill neighborhood. It’s a pleasant place to walk through clusters of brick buildings, and the university is deeply entwined with Rhode Island’s history, both good and tragic. The independent spirit of early Rhode Island remains in a less traditional approach to education than other Ivy League landmarks, but the university’s ties to the transatlantic slave trade haunts the institution to this day—the Brown family owned and traded slaves, as did many early members of Brown’s governing board. Self-guided tours of the campus are available on the university website.
For a peek into the daily life of abolitionist John Brown, who gave his name to the local university, pop into the John Brown House (52 Power St., 401/331-8575, www.rihs.org, 10:30am-4:30pm Tues.-Sat. Apr.-Dec., 10:30am-4:30pm Fri.-Sat. Jan.-Mar., $10 adults, $8 seniors and students, $6 children 7-17, free children under 7). Meticulously restored, the grand Georgian mansion, built in 1788, is chock-full of excellent-quality period antiques and local art.
Another highlight of the neighborhood is the Providence Athenaeum (251 Benefit St., 401/421-6970, www.providenceathenaeum.org, 9am-7pm Mon.-Thurs., 9am-5pm Fri.-Sat., 1pm-5pm Sun.), a historic library that was a favorite haunt of Edgar Allan Poe and H. P. Lovecraft.
The downtown neighborhood swirls around the Rhode Island State House (82 Smith St., 401/222-2357), worth a look for its freestanding enormous dome—one of the largest of its kind in the world. Cross the river to another gem of Providence architecture, the Providence City Hall (25 Dorrance St., 401/421-7740, www.providenceri.com, 8:30am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri.), a gorgeous Beaux-Arts landmark wrought in brass and marble.
The city hall appears in the writing of local horror author H. P. Lovecraft, as does the former Industrial Trust Tower at 111 Westminster Street that’s often referred to as The Superman Building, the tallest building in Rhode Island.
Colorful and a bit corny, this Italian American enclave is full of red-sauce joints, Italian bakeries, and little neighborhood markets. Beyond first impressions, though, there’s a lot of fascinating history here—a good option for exploring are the gourmet walking tours of the neighborhood by Savoring Rhode Island (800/656-0713, www.savoringrhodeisland.com, 3-hour tours $55), which blend local stories and culinary heritage.
Several miles outside of the city, the historic Roger Williams Park & Zoo (1000 Elmwood Ave., 401/785-3510, www.rwpzoo.org, 10am-5pm daily Apr.-Sept., 10am-4pm daily Oct.-Mar., $14.95 adults, $12.95 seniors, $9.95 children 2-12) was one of the first in the United States and remains among the best in New England. Highlights include a miniature Nubian goat, red pandas, wildebeest, cotton-top tamarins, and a Linne’s two-toed sloth.
Surrounding the zoo is a 427-acre park that’s free to access, with a series of paths that wind around manicured gardens, ponds, and pavilions. The park is especially lovely in the fall, when the trees and Japanese Garden are brightly lit by colorful leaves.
Providence hums with creative energy, which powers dozens of local art galleries and art spaces—too many to visit on a single trip to the city. You’ll find an entire complex of galleries and performance spaces at AS220 (95 Mathewson St., Unit 204, and 115 Empire St., 401/831-9327, www.as220.org, 1pm-6pm Wed.-Fri., noon-4pm Sat.), with work by more than 150 artists in a series of rotating exhibits.
Another favorite for contemporary art is Yellow Peril Gallery (60 Valley St. #5, 401/861-1535, www.yellowperilgallery.com, 11am-8pm Thurs.-Sun.), where you’ll find works by midcareer and more-established names that explores themes from society and pop culture.
To see what creative minds at the Rhode Island School of Design are making, stop by the Gelman Student Exhibitions Gallery at RISD (20 N. Main St., 401/709-8660, www.risd.edu, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun.), which showcases some of the best work by current students. For a more complete listing of galleries, a great resource is the monthly Gallery Night event website (www.gallerynight.org).
The beloved horror writer was a Providence native, and avid readers will find references to the city woven through his hefty oeuvre. Lovecraft adored Providence, so the city’s become a pilgrimage for avid fans. The first stop on any Lovecraftian voyage through Providence should be Lovecraft Arts & Sciences (65 Weybosset St., 401/264-0838, www.necronomicon-providence.com, 10:30am-6:30pm Mon.-Sat.), a store that’s packed to the gills with all the weird and otherworldly things that populate the author’s stories. It’s also the home base for the Lovecraft Arts & Sciences Council, a nonprofit that runs Lovecraft walking tours, organizes the yearly NecronomiCon, and holds a range of appropriately creepy Lovecraft-themed events.
It’s almost easier to single out places in Providence that Lovecraft didn’t write about, but two favorite haunts were the superb Providence Athenaeum and the Ladd Observatory (210 Doyle Ave., 401/862-2641, www.brown.edu, open to public 9pm-10:30pm Tues., free), where he liked to watch the stars. And of course, Lovecraft’s grave is a must-see for aficionados, who troop to lovely, 200-acre Swan Point Cemetery (585 Blackstone Blvd., 401/272-1314, www.swanpointcemetery.com, 8:30am-4pm daily), where his gravestone reads simply: “I am Providence.”
In 1994, dozens of wood-filled braziers in the river were set alight for the city’s annual New Year’s Eve celebration in a massive art installation. That onetime display has now become WaterFire (401/272-3111, www.waterfire.org), a series of fire sculptures that light up on eight Saturday nights July-September. Starting at sunset, music is piped in on giant speakers, street performers and food stalls are set up on the riverbanks, and the city becomes one big open-air carnival, made romantic by the smell of smoke and the sight and sounds of crackling flames.
WaterFire in Providence
On the third Thursday of every month, 21 Providence art spaces open their doors for Gallery Night (www.gallerynight.org, 5pm-9pm). There’s a printable gallery map available on the website, or you can join a free guided tour on the Art Bus that leaves from One Regency Plaza every 20 minutes between 5:30pm and 7pm. Free parking is also available on gallery nights, with lots marked on the gallery map.
With a retractable glass roof and amazing views of downtown Providence, the Rooftop at the Providence G (100 Dorrance St., 401/632-4904, www.rooftopattheg.com, 5pm-10pm Mon.-Wed., 5pm-2am Thurs., 4pm-2am Fri.-Sat., 4pm-10pm Sun.) is stylish and trendy, and it’s a glorious spot to watch the stars appear above the city. Experienced hands recommend bypassing the food for a drink by one of the outdoor fire pits.
For something completely different, Ogie’s Trailer Park (1155 Westminster St., 401/383-8200, www.ogiestrailerpark.com, 4pm-1am Mon.-Thurs., 3pm-2am Fri., 4pm-2am Sat., noon-1am Sun.) is a mishmash of kitsch, cat-themed art, and mid-century design. Food includes bygone snacks like grilled peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, along with a menu of old-fashioned cocktails that features some tiki classics. Beer comes in cans, naturally.
The “speakeasy” experience might be a little contrived, but walking through a lingerie shop to get into Justine’s (11 Olneyville Sq., 401/454-4440, 7pm-1am Tues.-Thurs., 7pm-2am Fri.-Sat.) makes this feel like a slightly risqué discovery. Low lighting and vintage decor keep the atmosphere romantic (excellent cocktails don’t hurt, either).
With a lineup of high-quality, hop-focused beers, Long Live Beerworks (425 W. Fountain St., Unit 104, www.longlivebeerworks.com, 4pm-9pm Wed.-Thurs., 4pm-10pm Fri., 1pm-10pm Sat.) makes some of Rhode Island’s best pours. There’s indoor and outdoor seating in the stylish tasting room, and food trucks circle the wagons to provide drinking snacks.
The art-rich Providence community means hipper-than-average stores filled with everything from ultramodern fashion to vintage treasures. One favorite is the men’s and women’s clothing boutique Clover (233 Westminster St., 401/490-4626, www.cloverprovidence.com, 11am-6pm Mon.-Sat., noon-6pm Sun.), with an industrial-chic vibe and super-stylish lines. A collectively run vintage store with finds by a handful of local dealers, The Vault Collective (235 Westminster St., 401/250-2587, www.thevaultri.com, 11am-7pm daily) is organized by era, making it a fun place to browse looks gone by.
Shopping in this Italian American neighborhood is all about snapping up old-world treats for the trip home. The classic standby is Tony’s Colonial Food Store (311 Atwells Ave., 401/621-8675, www.tonyscolonial.mybigcommerce.com, 8:30am-6pm Mon.-Thurs., 8am-6:30pm Fri., 8am-6pm Sat., 8am-5pm Sun.), whose shelves are packed with olive oils, imported pasta, and other treats.
Weaving through some of Providence’s top sites, the 2.5-mile Independence Trail (401/441-6401, www.independencetrail.businesscatalyst.com) is an excellent orientation to the city, looping through downtown, up to the Rhode Island State House, and across the river to College Hill. Follow along on the downloadable map, then call the trail phone number at a series of plaques to listen to short recordings about each site.
Running 14.5 miles from Providence to Bristol, the East Bay Bike Path (www.dot.ri.gov) makes a great day trip out of the city, and it’s almost entirely flat. Hop on at the northern terminus of the trail at India Point Park (India St., Providence), then ride south across a series of inlets and coves on your way along the curving shore of Narragansett Bay. If you only want to ride one way, put your bike on the #60 RIPTA bus from Providence to Newport, which stops at Roger Williams University in Bristol, a couple of easy miles from the Bristol Trail terminus at Independence Park (Thames St., Bristol).
Since the Providence and Woonasquatucket Rivers flow right through downtown Providence, getting out on the water offers a great perspective on the cityscape. Single and tandem kayaks are available to rent from Providence Kayak Company (Waterplace Park, 10 Memorial Blvd., 401/829-1769, www.providencekayak.com, rentals from $20) in downtown. There’s also a range of Providence boat tours, including the informative Providence River Boat Company (575 S. Water St., 401/580-2628, www.providenceriverboat.com, daytime tours $22 adults, $17 children 12 and under), whose 50-minute tours cover history, architecture, and local culture. The open-air boats run after dark during WaterFire, which is a remarkable way to see the flaming art installations up and down the rivers.
Standard diner fare and a postage-stamp seating area can’t keep Haven Brothers Diner (Fulton St. between Exchange St. and Memorial Blvd., 401/603-8124, 5pm-3am Sun.-Thurs., 5pm-4am Fri.-Sat., $4-10) from legendary status. It’s been slinging meals since 1893, though the onetime horse-drawn food truck is now a shiny silver trailer with seating inside. The classic order is the super-sloppy “murder burger,” topped with bacon, mushrooms, sautéed onions, and a fried egg.
Young, creative chef Benjamin Sukle started cropping up on best-in-America lists when he opened Oberlin (186 Union St., 401/588-8755, www.oberlinrestaurant.com, 5pm-11:30pm Thurs.-Mon., $20-30) in 2016. It’s a wine bar with wonderful small plates: an innovative raw bar, delicate Italian American fare, and thoughtful recipes using sustainably caught fish. The simple interior can get loud as the evening wears on, and reservations are a good idea.
If you’re looking for breakfast or lunch in downtown, Small Point Café (230 Westminster St., 401/228-6999, www.smallpointcafe.com, 7am-7:30pm Mon.-Fri., 7:30am-7:30pm Sat., 8am-7:30pm Sun., $5-10) is a welcome break from the bustle. A brief menu of sandwiches, salads, and simple breakfasts is served with good, strong coffee, and the student atmosphere makes for fun people-watching.
Dine on farm-to-table fare at Nick’s on Broadway (500 Broadway, 401/421-0286, www.nicksonbroadway.com, 8am-3pm and 5:30pm-10pm Wed.-Sat., 8am-3pm Sun., brunch $7-13, dinner $18-26), a New American bistro whose bar looks straight into the bustling open kitchen. The menu includes creative vegetarian options and locally sourced meat and fish, and the four-course tasting menu is created with the best of what’s super fresh—$65 for a specially designed feast.
Treats like hand-sized meat pies, savory biscuits, and piles of cookies keep North Bakery (70 Battey St., 401/421-4062, www.northbakery.com, 7am-6pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-11pm Fri.-Sun., $2-9) among the city’s best places for an afternoon snack, and a solid cocktail menu keeps the casual spot busy well into the evening. The DanDan hand pie is the classic order: It’s a full-flavored goat pastry spiced with dried chile and black pepper.
The airy dining room at the eclectic vegetarian restaurant The Grange (166 Broadway, 401/831-0600, www.providencegrange.com, 8am-midnight Sun.-Thurs., 8am-1am Fri.-Sat., $10-17) feels like a rustic loft, with lots of pockmarked wood and railroad spike beer taps. The roasted cauliflower is a perennial favorite on the wide-ranging menu, and there’s live music on some weekend nights.
A strong contender for the best Italian meal on Federal Hill, S Enoteca Umberto (256 Atwells Ave., 401/272-8466, 5pm-1am Tues.-Thurs., 5pm-2am Fri.-Sat., $20-35) serves southern Italian cuisine from a teeny kitchen. Dishes of handmade pasta and braised meats are served in bowls that are ready to share, and the restaurant has a convivial, family-style vibe that can feel like the best kind of dinner party. Wine pairings are superb, and reservations are essential.
For more of a classic Italian American experience, Andino’s Italian Restaurant (171 Atwells Ave., 401/453-3164, www.andinositalianrestaurant.com, 11:30am-11pm daily, $14-25) has old-style favorites like eggplant parmigiana, pasta with meatballs and red sauce, and tiramisu. If you’re hoping to try snail salad—an Italian-Rhode Island mainstay—this is a great place to order one.
The laid-back little brother of restaurant Chez Pascal, S Wurst Kitchen (960 Hope St., 401/421-4422, www.chez-pascal.com, lunch 11:30am-2:30pm Tues.-Sun., dinner 5:30pm-9pm Tues.-Thurs., 5:30pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., $7-10) has garnered a cult following for house-made hot dogs and sausages that include brats, knackwurst, kielbasa, and chorizo, all beautifully spiced. There are small plates as well, but the simple hot dog topped with kraut is a reminder of how good a meal that can be.
Local chain Olneyville New York System Restaurant (18 Plainfield St., 401/621-9500, www.olneyvillenewyorksystem.com, 11am-2am Sun.-Thurs., 11am-3am Fri.-Sat., $3-8) won an America’s Classic Award from the James Beard Foundation in 2014 for its distinctive take on the Rhode Island wiener, which comes topped with mustard, meat sauce, chopped onions, and a bit of celery salt.
A fried-dough joint that inspires rapturous odes, PVDonuts (79 Ives St., www.pvdonuts.com, 8am-4pm Wed.-Sun., $2-5) slow-raises its brioche doughnuts for a richer flavor, then dunks the little confections in everything from pop rocks to cereal milk. The old-fashioned doughnuts are a delight as well, especially when they’re fresh from the fryer.
Aside from hotels and inns, there are many rental options on Airbnb—notably a handful of houseboats moored in the heart of town.
A 15-minute walk from downtown, the bare-bones Esperanto Providence Hostel and Guesthouse (62 Nolan St., 401/216-8807, www.providencehostel.com, 4-bed dorms $29-50, private rooms $69-125) is easily the best deal in town. A fully equipped kitchen, luggage and bicycle storage, and common spaces make this a convenient spot for travelers, though basic amenities are seriously basic.
The hippest spot in town is S The Dean (122 Fountain St., 401/455-3326, www.thedeanhotel.com, $99-179), where vintage furniture and artwork meet a modern aesthetic. Much of the artwork in the hotel was created by local artists, and all the design feels conspicuously boutique. Despite the almost overwhelming cool, rooms are simple and surprisingly affordable, with buddy-trip-friendly bunk beds and single rooms. If you love the style, it would be easy to spend the entire weekend inside: The Dean also has a karaoke bar, coffee shop, beer hall, and “cocktail den.”
Built in a former rectory that’s stocked with antiques, Old Court Bed & Breakfast (144 Benefit St., 401/751-2002, www.oldcourt.com, $145-235) is convenient to Brown University and RISD. The house is full of character, and the friendly innkeeper furnishes guests with cooked-to-order breakfasts and plates of warm cookies. Off-street parking is especially welcome in the middle of town, where finding a spot can be a hassle.
Harkening back to the olden days of Rhode Island style is the Hilton-run Providence Biltmore (11 Dorrance St., 401/421-0700, www.providencebiltmore.com, $199-400), where plush carpets and over-the-top chandeliers strike a balance between camp and class. This hotel is full of ghost stories and lore, and was once named America’s Most Haunted Hotel—among the extremely dubious claims made about the Biltmore is that one of the financial backers was a practicing Satanist, who supposedly had a chicken coop installed on the roof to provide chickens for sacrifices.
For maps, updates on the city’s events, and any other tourist information, call or stop by the Providence Warwick Convention and Visitors Bureau (10 Memorial Blvd., 401/456-0200, www.goprovidence.com, 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri.). To learn the colorful story of former Providence mayor Buddy Cianci, the podcast miniseries Crimetown (www.gimletmedia.com/crimetown) is highly recommended and packed with details from Rhode Island’s world of organized crime.
The city’s major hospitals are Miriam Hospital (164 Summit Ave., 401/793-2500, www.lifespan.org/partners/tmh) and Roger Williams Medical Center (825 Chalkstone Ave., 401/456-2000, www.rwmc.com).
The state’s airport is T. F. Green (2000 Post Rd., Warwick, 401/737-8222, www.pvd-ri.com), an international, clean, and efficient facility with plenty of parking. About a 30-minute drive from downtown Providence, the airport is also easily accessed by buses run by Rhode Island Public Transit Authority (RIPTA, 401/781-9400, www.ripta.com). Many Providence hotels also offer free shuttle service.
The commuter line that runs frequently every day between Boston and Providence is operated by the Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority (MBTA, 617/222-3200, www.mbta.com). Also, Amtrak (800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com) runs regular service between Providence and Washington DC, stopping in Boston and New York, among other cities, along the way.
Peter Pan Bus Lines (401/331-7500, www.peterpanbus.com) operates several routes in and out of Providence from key cities—including Boston, New York City, Newport, Cape Cod, and others. The discount carrier Megabus (www.megabus.com) also offers service to New York City, New Haven, Dartmouth, and New Bedford.
Providence is a remarkably walkable city, and anywhere you can’t get on foot is served by RIPTA (Rhode Island Public Transit Authority, 401/781-9400, www.ripta.com). All bus routes start at Kennedy Plaza (in front of the State House) and cover the city for the usual fare of $2.
Parking can be a hassle in downtown, but the on-street meters are free 9pm-2am, as well as all day Sunday. Many meters have a time limit of two hours. The website www.parkdowntownprovidence.com has a helpful map of all the city’s parking garages.
If Providence has been overlooked by travelers, Pawtucket—long known by the unflattering nickname “The Bucket”—remains almost invisible. For decades, the fourth-largest city in the state cropped up in national news reports with terrible headlines: The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) named the Blackstone River the most polluted in the United States, while nearby Central Falls was nominated the cocaine capital of the United States.
But things have changed. Life has returned to the once-toxic Blackstone River, with muskrats and egrets on banks once covered in industrial effluent. While Pawtucket remains rough around the edges, there are microbreweries and artists’ collectives settling into formerly abandoned spaces. Central Falls, meanwhile, has some of the best Portuguese and Colombian food in New England, a seriously under-the-radar destination for a foodie adventure.
And the Blackstone River Valley is fascinating, a nascent National Historic Park that was established in 2014 and extends northeast to Woonsocket. Arguably the American birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, the Blackstone River powered spinning bobbins and looms, drawing a steady flow of immigrants that began in the early 1800s and continues to this day.
Built inside the mill that started everything, the interactive Slater Mill Museum (67 Roosevelt Ave., Pawtucket, 401/725-8638, www.slatermill.org, 10am-4pm daily July 4-Labor Day, 10am-4pm Tues.-Sun. May-June and Sept.-Oct., 11am-3pm Sat.-Sun. Mar.-Apr. and Nov., $12 adults, $10 seniors and students, $8.50 children 6-12, children under 6 free) is housed in original 18th- and 19th-century buildings. Admission includes a 90-minute tour of the mill led by costumed interpreters who demonstrate the enormous amount of work it took to produce clothing and food by hand—contrasted with the hulking Old Slater Mill, its industrial counterpart, which demonstrates how clothing and tool production became increasingly mechanized. You’ll leave treating your cotton shirt with newfound respect.
The planned Blackstone River Valley National Historic Park doesn’t have much infrastructure yet, so another good place to explore the river’s industrial past is Blackstone River State Park (Lower River Rd., Lincoln, www.riparks.com, dawn-dusk daily). Long and narrow, the park is part of the Blackstone River Bikeway (www.cycleblackstone.com) a 10-mile, off-road bike path that extends from Woonsocket to Pawtucket, descending gradually with the Blackstone River. Within the state park itself, the small Captain Wilbur Kelly House Transportation Museum (1075 Lower River Rd., Lincoln, 401/333-0295, 9am-5pm daily, free), tells the story of changing times on the Blackstone River, from Native Americans to canal boats and the Industrial Revolution. The museum parking lot is also an excellent place to start a ride on the Blackstone River Bikeway.
Blackstone River Bikeway
A surprisingly large green space that’s hemmed in by suburbia, Lincoln Woods State Park (park entrances on Rte. 123 and Rte. 146, 401/723-7892, www.riparks.com, sunrise-sunset daily, free) has an enormous pond with swimming beaches, picnic tables, walking trails, mountain biking, and some of the best bouldering in New England—walk through the woods and you’ll see rock climbers hiking with big pads on their back, headed for freestanding rocks that they climb without ropes.
Sit down to a meal at S Beirão Restaurante (1374 Broad St., Central Falls, 401/729-7966, 10am-9pm daily, $12-20), and tuck into a Portuguese feast, and listen for the listing accents of Portuguese and Cape Verdean locals. The menu includes classics like caldo verde, and it’s always worth asking about specials, which can feature wonderfully traditional preparations of local seafood. Vinho Verde is plentiful, cheap, and perfect with the salty fare.
The Mexican fare at Taqueria Lupita (765 Dexter St., Central Falls, 401/724-2650, www.taquerialupitari.com, 11am-9pm Tues.-Thurs., 11am-10pm Fri.-Sat., 1pm-8pm Sun., $8-12) ranges from Mexican American standbys like nachos and quesadillas to rich hominy soup, sweet tamales, and chicken sauced with ground pumpkin seeds. The tortillas are made by hand and the food is consistently excellent, the atmosphere brightened up with souvenirs and textiles from south of the border.
With cuisine straight from the mountains of northwest Colombia, El Paisa (598 Dexter St., Central Falls, 401/726-8864, www.elpaisa.com, 7am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 7am-11pm Fri.-Sat., $9-20) is a transporting experience. The long menu includes treats like picada, great fried piles of Colombian sausage and vegetables, as well as platters of fish and meat with all the fixings. Order la bandeja paisa for a traditional, over-the-top serving of meat, rice, beans, yucca, potato, ham, corn cakes, fried bananas, and salad. Cash only.
A basic eatery with counter service, La Arepa (574 Smithfield Ave., Pawtucket, 401/335-3711, www.laarepari.com, 11am-8:30pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-7pm Sun., $4-8) excels at making the Venezuelan treats the restaurant is named for—little corn cakes patted around fillings like stewed beef or black beans and cheese. Get a plate for a hearty meal with plantains, salad, rice, and beans.
Most visitors to the Blackstone Valley stay in Providence, where there are more options and a livelier atmosphere. There is one notable exception, however: the wonderful Samuel Slater Canal Boat (Blackstone River, Central Falls, 401/724-2200, from $149), built in the traditions of the low-lying canal boats that once plied the Blackstone River. Sleeping on the boat is a great experience, a private haven in the middle of the city. Run by the Blackstone Valley Tourism Council, the boat can be booked through Airbnb.
Close to the Samuel Slater Mill in downtown Pawtucket, the Blackstone Valley Visitor Center (175 Main St., Pawtucket, 401/724-2200, www.tourblackstone.com, 10am-4pm daily, hours vary in winter) is a great resource for exploring the entire region, with a series of museum-like exhibits that are worth a stop in themselves.
Pawtucket is five miles north of Providence, just off I-95. The Rhode Island Public Transit Authority (401/784-9500, ext. 2012, www.ripta.com) operates frequent buses to Pawtucket from downtown Providence.
Nestled in among a handful of quieter suburbs, this well-groomed town of roughly 50,000 centers around the Blackstone River. Like Pawtucket, Woonsocket was at the heart of America’s early industrialization, with more than 20 mills operating in the area by the mid-19th century. The French Canadians who flocked to the mills still make up much of the community, and the Museum of Work and Culture tells their stories.
Explore the town’s past as a center for wool manufacturing at the Museum of Work and Culture (42 S. Main St., 401/769-9675, www.woonsocket.org, 9:30am-4pm Tues.-Fri., 10am-4pm Sat., 1pm-4pm Sun., $8 adults, $6 seniors and students, children under 10 free), a former textile mill full of interactive exhibits and French Canadian immigrant history.
Both unexpected and delightful, St. Ann’s Arts and Cultural Center (84 Cumberland St., 401/356-0713, www.stannsartsandculturalcenter.org, 1pm-4pm Sun., $10 adults, $8 seniors and students, children 4 and under free) is a small-town church with the largest collection of frescoes in the United States. The 93-year-old church was painted in 1940 by Canadian artist Guido Nincheri, and according to local lore, the faces on the cherubs are those of young Woonsocket locals at the time the frescoes were made.
The Woonsocket area lays claim to two of Rhode Island’s most legendary destinations for “chicken family-style,” a hearty spread of roast chicken, pasta with marinara sauce, rolls, french fries, and salad that is especially beloved in the Blackstone Valley. The all-you-can-eat meals have been popular since at least the 1930s, but the heavyweight contender is Wrights Farm Restaurant (84 Inman Rd., Harrisville, 401/769-2856, www.wrightsfarm.com, 4pm-9pm Thurs.-Fri., noon-9pm Sat., noon-8pm Sun., $12-15), a vast dining hall that attracts families and groups from around the state. While the eatery gets mixed reviews for the quality of the fare, the founders of the Bocce Club Restaurant (226 St. Louis Ave., Woonsocket, 401/767-2000, 5pm-10pm Tues.-Sat., noon-9pm Sun., $12-20) are said to have invented chicken family-style when they opened the first version of the Bocce Club in their basement, feeding crowds that would then play bocce on the lawn.
Woonsocket is 30 minutes from Pawtucket off Route 146, and there’s RIPTA service from Providence that passes through Lincoln (401/784-9500, ext. 2012, www.ripta.com, #54).
From its early days in the 17th century, Newport was a haven for freethinkers, heretics, and dissidents drummed out of Puritan settlements, who thrived and intermingled while the town gradually grew into a bustling port city.
When the U.S. economy turned to railroads and industry, Newport became a summertime escape for Eastern elite, whose opulent “cottages” were the toast of New York’s polite society. Their surviving homes are maintained to a high gloss and filled with antiques and designs that offer a fascinating glimpse of what Mark Twain sardonically dubbed the Gilded Age, a time of runaway fortunes, dollar princesses, and raw inequality.
But beyond the flashy ballrooms and boudoirs, summer in Newport is pure New England, and it would be easy to spend a week sailing Narragansett Bay, surfing beach breaks, and taking in ball games at Cardines Field. The city has a thriving arts scene, from a year-round film festival to a pair of destination-worthy museums. Despite the summer crowds, though, crossing the Newport Bridge onto Aquidneck Island is like being let in on a delicious secret—almost 400 years after its founding, Newport feels like a discovery.
TOP EXPERIENCE
When Newport was the place to spend the summer season, the wealthiest families in the United States piled their money into ostentatious “cottages”—sprawling mansions whose gilt, gaud, and grandeur are truly something to behold. The most famous of these date to the Gilded Age, a period in the late 19th century that saw extraordinary income inequality, when industrialists—sometimes called robber barons—made stunning fortunes from railroads, finance, and monopolies on natural resources. From an aesthetic perspective alone, Newport’s mansions are fascinating, and it’s easy to while away a few afternoons exploring dozens of rooms packed with art from around the world and manicured grounds designed by some of the most famous American architects.
But beyond the golden frames and marble flourishes, the mansions tell a story about a singular moment in U.S. history, when American wealth was ascendant, but European culture reigned supreme. The houses are packed with art brought back from European travels, and many are designed to resemble the French and Italian palaces that Americans encountered during their time abroad. That blend of American money and European heritage defined much of elite social life at the time, as newspaper headlines announced the marriages of wealthy “dollar princesses” to impoverished European aristocrats.
The Preservation Society of Newport County (401/847-1000, www.newportmansions.org) maintains eight remarkable mansions that can be visited with guided tours or self-guided audio tours (not all locations offer both options). Each is fascinating, but after three in a row, the wainscoting starts to swim before your eyes and you can’t tell neo-Gothic from Louis XIV. Fortunately, the society’s two- and five-house tickets ($9/$35 adults, $9/$12 youth 6-17, children under 6 free) are not limited to a single day, so tours of aristocratic boudoirs can be interspersed with time at the beach. Tickets to The Breakers are sold separately, but to visit any other single house, purchase a one-house ticket at any mansion or online ($17.50 adults, $8 youth 6-17, children under 6 free). The operating schedules are complex and subject to change, so it’s worth calling the Preservation Society prior to visiting.
With time for just one mansion, however, The Breakers (44 Ochre Point Ave., 9am-6pm daily late-June-Aug., 9am-5pm daily Sept.-late June, $24 adults, $8 children 6-17, children under 6 free) is Newport’s showstopper. Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt II built the Italianate behemoth to resemble an open-air palazzo, and downy clouds arc above the central Great Hall. The house was created by Richard Morris Hunt, founder of the first American architectural school, and he wove the story of the Vanderbilt fortune into his design, with marble railcars and dozens of stylized acorns and oak leaves.
The Breakers
Marble House (596 Bellevue Ave., 10am-5pm daily) can’t rival the scale of The Breakers, but the sumptuous, French-inspired home is filled with extraordinary art, extravagant furniture, and an imposing amount of gold leaf and marble. The remarkable Gothic Room is a famous example of Gothic Revival in the United States.
A favorite among mansion aficionados is The Elms (367 Bellevue Ave., 9am-6pm daily late June-Aug., 9am-5pm daily Sept.-late June), one of the most elegant of the Newport homes. French-inspired architecture and furnishings are set amid Classic Revival gardens that feature grand old trees and some surprising statuary—don’t miss the imaginative bronze of a tiger attacking an alligator. Darker and more subdued, Kingscote (253 Bellevue Ave., 10 am-5pm daily) is among the earliest mansions in Newport, and it’s set apart by Gothic Revival architecture and older technologies. Built by plantation owner George Noble Jones, Kingscote dates to an earlier generation of Newport elite, when wealthy, antebellum Southerners came north to escape the heat.
The perfect Newport day might start with early morning light at Cliff Walk, but the scenic, 10-mile Ocean Drive (www.oceandrivenewport.com) has got sunset on lock. To begin, follow Thames Street south from downtown, turning right onto Wellington Avenue, continuing on as it becomes Halidon Avenue, then making a right onto Harrison Avenue. While Ocean Drive follows various roads, it’s clearly signposted at every turn.
Keep watch for fainting goats, llamas, and sheep as you pass the Swiss Village Foundation (www.svffoundation.org) on Harrison Avenue; the foundation is an egg and sperm bank for endangered livestock breeds that’s open to the public just one day each year.
Duck off the main road onto Fort Adams Drive for a side trip through historic Fort Adams (401/847-2400, www.riparks.com, free), then continue south along Harrison Avenue to Ridge Road. Turn right onto Castle Hill Avenue then right again onto Ocean Avenue to pause for a drink on The Lawn at Castle Hill Inn (590 Ocean Dr., 401/849-3800, www.castlehillinn.com), one of the most elegant stretches of grass in Newport. After your break at the inn, turn right on Ocean Avenue to stay on the Ocean Drive route to Brenton Point State Park (Ocean Ave., 401/849-4562, www.riparks.com, free), which wraps all the way around the point where Narragansett Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean. Brenton Point’s consistent winds make it the best kite-flying spot around, so bring your own or pick one up at the park’s small shop, then grab a Del’s Lemonade from one of the trucks that prowl the parking lot. For an interesting glimpse of a once-grand Newport mansion, peek through the fence at The Bells, now crumbling into a creepy, atmospheric ruin on the park’s grounds. To find the building, follow the grassy road behind the restrooms.
You’ll eventually loop up by way of Bellevue Avenue. Ocean Drive can take a brisk 35 minutes or extend through a leisurely afternoon.
In 1998, one of Newport’s great mansions was transformed into the National Museum of American Illustration (492 Bellevue Ave., 401/851-8949, www.americanillustration.org, 11am-5pm Thurs.-Sun. late May-early Sept., 11am-5pm Fri. Sept.-late May, guided tours 3pm Fri. year-round, $20 adults, $18 seniors, $14 students, $10 children 5-12, children under 5 not admitted), the first museum in the country devoted to illustration art. The collection includes work by N. C. Wyeth, Maxfield Parrish, and Norman Rockwell, the most iconic names from the golden age of American illustration, which stretched from the post-Civil War era to the 1950s. It’s a fascinating look at the intersection of popular culture, propaganda, and fine art, and the knowledgeable docents offer insight into U.S. art history. Don’t leave the museum without exploring the grounds of Vernon Court; a romantic rose garden, terraces, and a sunken garden are beautifully maintained in the neoclassical style.
As the British navy set up floating blockades during the War of 1812, the militia at Fort Adams manned an impressive array of 17 cannons that would give any invading fleet a rough welcome to the Newport Harbor. Join a guided tour at Fort Adams State Park (90 Fort Adams Dr., 401/841-0707, www.fortadams.org, tours hourly 10am-4pm daily May-Oct., noon and 2pm Sat.-Sun. Nov.-Jan., noon and 2pm daily late Mar.-Apr., $30 families, $12 adults, $6 youth 6-17, children under 6 free; self-guided tours $15 families, $6 adults, $3 youth 6-17, children under 6 free) to explore officers’ quarters, the ramparts, and fascinating tunnels to the outer defenses, or visit the fort at your own pace (though tunnels aren’t accessible on self-guided tours).
The rest of the park is free to explore, and swimming beaches, picnic areas, and rolling grass make it a pleasant spot on warm afternoons. The 2.2-mile Bay Walk loops along the shoreline, up the western side of the park, with views of the Narragansett Bay, and back down the eastern edge, where you can see the bristling masts and white sails of Newport Harbor.
Browse modern and historical art in (yet another) historic mansion at the Newport Art Museum (76 Bellevue Ave., 401/848-8200, www.newportartmuseum.org, 10am-4pm Tues.-Sat., noon-4pm Sun., $10 adults, $8 seniors, $6 students and military, children under 6 free). The John N. A. Griswold house was built by Richard Morris Hunt (of The Breakers fame), and is one of the earliest and best-known American Stick-Style buildings. It’s an atmospheric place to see works by William Trost Richards, Gilbert Stuart, and other New England artists, and the rotating exhibitions are a highlight.
Rhode Island is thought to be the first civil authority in the world to guarantee religious freedom to all citizens, and it became a haven for Quakers, Jews, and freethinkers that Puritans saw as a threat to their social fabric. Perhaps the most vivid place to hear about this part of Rhode Island’s legacy is at the historic Touro Synagogue (85 Touro St., 401/847-4794, www.tourosynagogue.org, synagogue 10am-3:30pm, visitors center 9:30am-430pm Sun.-Fri. July-early Sept.; synagogue 10am-1:30pm, visitors center 9:30am-2:30pm Sun.-Fri. Sept.-Oct.; synagogue noon-1:30pm, visitors center 11:30am-2:30pm Sun. Nov.-Dec., $12 adults, $10 seniors, $8 students and military, children under 14 free), the only surviving colonial-era synagogue in the United States.
Construction on the building began in 1759, and the layout resembles that of synagogues in the Caribbean islands and Amsterdam; Newport’s Jewish community was descended from the Sephardic people expelled from Spain by the Inquisition, who continued to more tolerant homes in the Netherlands and the New World. The synagogue itself is a stunning building, with an airy balcony for the formerly gender-divided congregation, a 500-year-old Torah, and a framework of 12 Ionic columns—one for each tribe of Israel.
Each year, community members gather to celebrate Rhode Island’s spirit of religious liberty by reading a historic letter from President George Washington to the congregation, expressing his support for their freedom. “It is now no more that toleration is spoken of as if it were the indulgence of one class of people,” he wrote, “the Government of the United States . . . gives to bigotry no sanction, to persecution no assistance.”
Sample locally made beer and rum at Newport Storm Brewery and Newport Distilling Co. (293 J.T. Connell Hwy., 401/849-5232, www.thomastewrums.com, noon-5pm Sun.-Mon. and Wed., noon-6pm Thurs.-Sat., beer tastings $9, rum tastings $10). Guided tours are available each day at 3pm, but you can explore the brewing and distilling processes anytime with a self-guided option; the tour climbs to a balcony above the brewery floor, past a towering stack of oak barrels filled with enough rum for a lifetime of daiquiris. A couple centuries ago, Newport had 22 rum distilleries, but things got pretty dry for local spirit lovers after 1842—Newport Distilling Co. is the first legal Newport distillery since then. Its Thomas Tew rum is distilled from domestically produced blackstrap molasses and got its name from a local privateer-turned-pirate.
Just down the street from the synagogue is another beautiful and historic house of worship. The airy, light-filled sanctuary of Trinity Church (141 Spring St., 401/846-0660, www.trinitynewport.org, 10am-4pm Mon.-Sat., 11:30am-12:30pm Sun. late May-Oct., 11:30am-12:30pm Sun. Nov.-May, $5 adults, children under 13 free) is occupied by fascinating architectural details and artwork that can be explored with a self-guided tour. George Washington, Queen Elizabeth, and the Anglican bishop Desmond Tutu have all attended worship here, and the public is welcome to join services at 10am on Sunday.
Leather-bound books and historic portraits line the walls at the Redwood Library and Athenaeum (50 Bellevue Ave., 401/847-0292, www.redwoodlibrary.org, 9:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Tues. and Thurs.-Sat., 9:30am-8pm Wed., 1pm-5pm Sun., $10 adults, students, youth under 18, and Rhode Island library cardholders free), the oldest surviving lending library in the United States. Though the admission fee seems high for this relatively diminutive spot, it’s still an intriguing place to explore; come at 10:30am to join a guided tour (free with admission), or find the library’s artistic and architectural highlights with a self-guided brochure. Don’t miss the self-portrait of Gilbert Stuart, a native Rhode Islander and 18th-century portraitist who created the most famously unfinished canvas of George Washington.
In the heart of Bellevue Avenue’s shops and cafés is a pair of museums that may split the true aficionados from their less dedicated companions (who may be more interested in an “Awful Awful” shake across the road at Newport Creamery). Tennis fans won’t want to miss the International Tennis Hall of Fame Museum (194 Bellevue Ave., 401/849-3990, www.tennisfame.com, 10am-6pm daily July-early Sept., 10am-5pm daily Sept.-Dec., 10am-5pm Wed.-Mon. Jan.-Mar., 10am-5pm daily Apr.-June, $15 adults, $12 seniors, students, and military, youth under 17 free), a shrine to the history, arcana, and heroes of the game, complete with a life-sized talking hologram of tennis great Roger Federer. Even the setting is infused with tennis history; the museum grounds once housed the Newport Casino, a social club that hosted the first U.S. National Men’s Singles Championship in 1881. The museum’s impeccable grass courts may be booked for games ($80 per half hour, $120 per hour).
At the other end of the block, the Audrain Automobile Museum (222 Bellevue Ave., 401/856-4420, www.audrainautomuseum.org, 10am-4pm daily, $14 adults, $10 seniors, military, and students, $8 youth 6-17, children under 6 free) is a celebration of the finest cars and motorcycles ever made; the museum exhibits rotate completely every few months to bring in vehicles from several private collections. Recent exhibitions have focused on American muscle cars, a rare collection of prewar vehicles, custom hot rods, and “speed machines,” a show that included Michael Schumacher’s Ferrari F310B and a Porsche 918 Spyder with a top speed of 214 mph.
Thames Street is the heart of the action, and some of the waterfront’s restaurants double as the area’s most appealing bars. The Black Pearl, Diego’s, Midtown Oyster Bar, and Fluke Wine, Bar & Kitchen are all appealing places to cozy up to a pint or cocktail, and the walkable district is so compact that it’s easy to wander until you find a happening place. One safe bet is O’Brien’s Pub (501 Thames St., 401/849-6623, 11:30am-1am daily), an easygoing spot with a big bar and outdoor seating that’s bustling all year. Another is Clarke Cooke House (26 Bannister’s Wharf, 401/849-2900, www.bannistersnewport.com, 11:30am-1am daily), where you can watch the sunset from the back patio, then stay through the evening, when things get pretty lively.
When summertime crowds overwhelm Thames Street, however, locals retreat to the watering holes on Broadway, a few of which retain enough seedy charm to be a refreshing change from the waterfront. One favorite spot is Pour Judgement (32 Broadway, 401/619-2115, www.pourjudgementnewport.com, 11am-1am Mon.-Fri., 11:30am-1am Sat., 10am-1am Sun.), which combines a pleasantly divey feel—neon signs, bric-a-brac—with great craft beers and a surprisingly appealing menu of bar food and healthier options. Regulars love the wings, the burgers, and the sloppily delicious Gouda cheese fries.
More history-minded barflies stop by The White Horse Tavern (26 Marlborough St., 401/849-3600, www.whitehorsetavern.us, 11am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-11pm Fri.-Sat.) to channel colonial-era conspirators and Newport pirates—the atmospheric bar is one of a handful of claimants to “oldest tavern in America,” and might just take the award. The White Horse has been serving drinks since 1673 and retains clapboard walls and huge ceiling beams typical of original 17th-century architecture. The dinner menu is more dated than historic, but it’s worth a visit just to enjoy the remarkable space.
For two weekends each summer, generally the last weekend of July and the first weekend in August, Newport fills to the brim with music lovers, drawn to two of the country’s most important—and historic—festivals. Newport Jazz Festival (www.newportjazz.org) is the original, a three-day extravaganza that always includes some of the genre’s biggest names. Dizzy Gillespie and Billie Holiday played the 1954 festival, and Miles Davis, Duke Ellington, and Ella Fitzgerald each released live albums of their Newport performances. Five years later, Newport Folk Festival (www.newportfolk.org) kicked off with a memorable show that included the debut performance of 18-year-old Joan Baez (who invited Bob Dylan to join her on stage in 1963). He came back in 1964 and 1965, when he famously played his first live electric set; after being booed by some members of the audience, he didn’t return to the festival for 37 years.
Both festivals remain vital, and artists that range from rock and roll to R&B pack the fields at Fort Adams State Park. To make the festivals a part of your road trip, start planning soon—tickets and many of the accommodations in the area sell out the previous winter, and prices skyrocket during both weekends. Visit the festival websites for more information, and be aware of the festivals while planning your trip; if you’re not in town for the festivals, you’d likely rather be somewhere else entirely.
As in all New England tourist towns, there are plenty of fudge shops and kitschy souvenir stores around Newport, but there are also some beautiful places to browse nautical knickknacks, clothing, and gifts.
Tempting shops are sprinkled all along the waterfront, but a good place to start would be the cavernous Armory Antiques and Fine Art (365 Thames St., 401/848-2398, 10am-5pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-6pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-7pm Sat.), where dozens of dealers pile up everything from ships in bottles to leather-bound books and fine china. A bit closer to the center, Cabbage Rose (493 Thames St., 401/846-7006, 11am-7pm daily) charms with pretty accessories and locally printed T-shirts.
From lithographs of J-class sloops to oil paintings of Newport beaches, Arnold Art (210 Thames St., 800/352-2234, www.arnoldart.com, 9:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.) brings together marine artists like Keith Reynolds and Helena Sturtevant—some of the area’s most recognizable.
Tony boutiques around Bellevue Avenue sell charming bits of the Newport lifestyle, like the perfectly sweet Cottage & Garden (9 Bridge St., 401/848-8477, www.cottageandgardennewport.com, 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun. July-Aug., 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat. Sept.-Jan. and Mar.-June), where displays of vintage furnishings, antiques, and garden supplies are arranged just so. If you’re getting ready for a yacht party—or just want to play dress-up as if you were—sloop-ready fashions are at Angela Moore (190 Bellevue Ave., 401/619-1900, www.angelamoore.com, 10am-5:30pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.).
Get the best views in town from the narrow path that threads between Newport’s most elegant homes and the rocky edge of the Atlantic Ocean. Cliff Walk (www.cliffwalk.com) winds 3.5 miles from Easton’s Beach (175 Memorial Blvd., signed entrance to Cliff Walk at the western edge of the beach), also known as First Beach, to Bailey’s Beach at Bellevue Avenue, known locally as “Reject’s Beach” since it’s open to, you know, the public. The finest stretch of scenery starts at the 40 Steps, an engraved granite staircase at the end of Narragansett Avenue. Heading north, the path is smooth and well-constructed for a 0.5 mile and passes behind The Breakers, Rosecliff, and Marble House. After Ruggles Avenue, the going gets a bit harder, and a sturdy pair of walking shoes is required.
Limited street parking is available at First Beach and on Narragansett Avenue, but it can be challenging to find a parking spot in the popular Bellevue Avenue area. The #67 RIPTA bus (401/784-9500, ext. 2012, www.ripta.com/67, $2, full-day pass $6) is convenient for making a one-way trip from 40 Steps to Ruggles Avenue or Bailey’s Beach; buses run every 20-30 minutes and pass close by the entry and exit points.
Much of Newport’s coastline is rocky and rugged, but those salty points shelter wonderful beaches that are bustling all summer—though some are livelier than others.
Watch surfers catch waves and take a ride on the vintage carousel at Easton’s Beach (aka First Beach, 175 Memorial Blvd., 401/845-5810, parking $20 weekends, $10 weekdays), a 0.75-mile stretch of sand that fills up with a friendly crowd of families. With ice cream shops and frozen lemonade trucks, this is a sweetly nostalgic place to enjoy the sun, and the on-site Rosie’s Beach Store rents out umbrellas, chairs, and boogie boards. It’s sometimes possible to find free parking on the side streets off Memorial Boulevard.
A few miles past Easton’s Beach is Sachuest Beach (aka Second Beach, 474 Sachuest Point Rd., 401/847-1993, parking $20 weekends, $10 weekdays), where there are better waves and sometimes a thinner crowd. This beach is also the home of Rhody Surf (401/206-9283, www.rhodysurf.com, private lessons $95 for 1 person, $165 for 2 people, $65 each additional person), which offers surfboard rentals and surfing lessons with certified instructors. The western edge of the beach catches the biggest swell, while the eastern end is calmer, so toss out your beach blanket accordingly.
A rocky cove shelters Gooseberry Beach (123 Ocean Ave., parking $20), making it a good choice for quiet swims and smaller children, and the beach is often less crowded than other places in town. Open-topped kayaks are available for rent, but the nearby beach club is not open to the public, so it’s worth bringing your own supplies. Avoid the Bellevue Avenue traffic and expensive parking by hopping on public transportation; Gooseberry Beach is just under a mile from the final stop on the RIPTA #67 bus route.
Aspiring yachties and ambitious landlubbers can hit the harbor in 12-meter America’s Cup sailboats—a class of racing boats designed for the prestigious America’s Cup race—with a pair of local charter companies. America’s Cup Charters (63 Mill St., 401/849-5868, www.americascupcharters.com, 2-hour sail $75 adults, $40 children under 11, $195 3-hour racing experience) has the largest fleet of winning boats in the world, while 12 Meter Charters (12 Bowen’s Wharf, 401/851-1216, www.12metercharters.com, 2-hour harbor sail $98 adults, $50 children 5-12, $139 3-hour racing experience) has a slightly smaller, but equally impressive quiver of sailing yachts.
Slower-moving and breathtakingly beautiful, old-fashioned schooners fly some of the prettiest sails on Narragansett Bay, and they’re notably more comfortable than the sleek and speedy America’s Cup boats. The 80-foot, teak-trimmed Aquidneck (32 Bowen’s Wharf, 401/849-3333, www.sightsailing.com, $32 1.75-hour sightseeing cruise, $41 sunset sail with drinks, $5 discount for children 6-12) has gaff-rigged sails and a broad, comfortable deck that’s perfect for a glamorous turn around the coast. Two-masted, wooden Madeleine (24 Bannister’s Wharf, 401/847-0298, www.cruisenewport.com, $32 1.5-hour sightseeing cruise, $41 sunset sail, $5 discount for children under 12) is 72 feet and impossibly elegant, with a pretty mermaid figurehead to lead the way across the water.
Experienced sailors can rent their own boat from Sail Newport (60 Fort Adams Dr., 401/846-1983, www.sailnewport.org, 3-hour keelboat rental from $126); after being checked out by a staff member, hit the harbor at the helm of a J22 or a Rhodes 19.
In addition to the seven-mile Cliff Walk and the trails at Fort Adams State Park, there are plenty of ways to escape the crowds on scenic trails near the sea. Remember: It’s important to be aware of ticks while hiking in this area.
Cliff Walk
With woodland habitat, streams, and fields, Norman Bird Sanctuary (583 Third Beach Rd., Middletown, 401/846-2577, www.normanbirdsanctuary.org, 9am-5pm daily, $3) attracts a diverse range of birds, from bobolinks to black-crowned night herons. Seven miles of hiking trails thread through 325 acres: The 1.4-mile Nelson Pond Trail traces a ridge covered with cedar and oak trees stunted by the wind and salt air, while the 1.2-mile Valley Trail passes through one of the preserve’s most diverse areas. Each of the tree species that grows within Norman Bird Sanctuary may be found along the trail, including four species of oak and eastern red cedar, the area’s only native conifer.
Borrow a pair of binoculars and a wildlife identification guide from the visitors center at Sachuest Point National Wildlife Refuge (Sachuest Point Rd., Middletown, 401/364-9124, www.fws.gov, 10am-4pm daily, free), then watch for snowy owls, harlequin ducks, and incredibly adorable New England cottontail rabbits. The 1.5-mile Ocean View Loop offers lots of water access and can be linked to the 1.2-mile Flint Point trail for a longer walk. Don’t miss the explanation of the area’s fascinating geological history at the visitors center—the rock record in the refuge retains traces of Rhode Island’s 356 million-year-old run-in with present-day Africa.
Grab a wiener and some popcorn, then watch the Collegiate League Newport Gulls go to bat at Cardines Field (W. Marlborough St. and America’s Cup Ave., 401/845-6832, www.newportgulls.com, $5 adults, $2 seniors and youth 13-18, $1 children under 13), where there’s baseball two or three times a week from early June through the August playoffs. The historic field offers an old-fashioned taste of the sport that’s largely been lost in the corporatized professional leagues, and is a blissful, family-friendly way to spend a summer evening.
On Saturday afternoons June-September, Newport dons its pearls and polo shirts for the matches at Newport Polo (250 Linden Ln., Portsmouth, 401/846-0200, www.nptpolo.com, lawn seating $12 adults, youth under 16 free). It’s the perfect place to bring an elegant picnic and enjoy the sunshine as national and international teams hook, bump, and pass their way through a series of chukkas, or periods. At halftime, spectators are invited onto the field to stomp the grass back into place after being torn up by flying hooves. Matches begin at 5pm and gates open at 1pm (noon in Sept.), so plan to arrive early for prime picnic spots.
Bustling Thames Street is lined with fudge shops, fine dining, and everything in between, including some of Newport’s best seafood restaurants. It’s the heart of the tourist scene and can get jammed with visitors, but joining the summer crowds by the water is just part of the Newport experience. In recent years, however, a cluster of hip, locals-oriented places have opened on Broadway, and when Thames Street starts looking like an out-of-control yacht party, it’s worth heading over there to enjoy a meal away from the din.
Seafood stars at the modern, romantic Fluke Wine, Bar & Kitchen (41 Bowen’s Wharf, 401/849-7778, www.flukewinebar.com, 5pm-9:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 4pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., 5pm-9pm Sun., mains $28-36), which takes up three sunny floors on Bowen’s Wharf with views of the water. Crispy oysters with mango pepper relish and chili mayo are a perennial favorite, as is the ultra-local Point Judith fluke. Grab a linen-topped table in the downstairs dining room for a leisurely meal, or head to the 3rd floor, where the casual bar is the perfect place to enjoy rounds of oysters and drinks from Fluke’s menu of excellent cocktails.
Cozy up to the bar at S The Black Pearl (Bannister’s Wharf, 401/846-5264, www.blackpearlnewport.com, 11:30am-10:30pm daily, $8-30) for a bowl of award-winning chowder—rumor has it that The Black Pearl won Newport’s chowder cook-off so frequently it got barred from entry. The casual tavern is the place to be here, where you can rub elbows with sailors and sightseers in a room that feels like a piece of maritime history.
You can watch all of Newport come and go at Midtown Oyster Bar (345 Thames St., 401/619-4100, www.midtownoyster.com, 11:30am-10pm daily, lunch $10-17, dinner $10-36), a popular hangout with a raw bar, dining room, and comfortable pub. The outdoor decks are dreamy on hot summer evenings, and you can wander around until you find the perfect place to sit. Mains like caramelized sea scallops with cauliflower mash are appealing and super fresh, but the appetizers tend to be Midtown’s most creative options; tuna tartare tacos are a favorite with regulars, and the charred octopus is a highlight. The bar’s especially good on Tuesday, when you can get a free trio of oysters with a featured drink.
Even if it weren’t for the fresh, creative Mexican food, Diego’s (11 Bowen’s Wharf, 401/619-2640, www.diegosnewport.com, 11:30am-1am Mon.-Fri., 9am-1am Sat.-Sun., $13-18) youthful rock-and-roll atmosphere would set it apart in elegant Newport. Mexican wrestlers’ masks, mason jar cocktails, and punk music are tonic after a morning in the Gilded Age, and the house drinks are among the best in town. Spiced sangrias are displayed at the bar, along with an apothecary’s assortment of funky drink ingredients, from rosebuds to tamarind. Crispy pork belly tacos come with a local fruit pico de gallo and chipotle crema, and the over-the-top crack fries have a cult following—order them “dirty Donald” style for a dollop of spicy duck gravy.
Newport’s best burgers are served with piles of fresh toppings and minimal fuss at S Mission (29 Marlborough St., 401/619-5560, www.missionnpt.com, 11am-10pm Tues.-Sat., 11am-9pm Sun., $8-10), a casual spot just off Broadway. Organic, grass-fed beef is freshly ground for burgers and hot dogs, and the restaurant uses Newport-grown potatoes for its crisp, golden, hand-cut fries. Counter service can be poky, and tables in the small dining rooms fill up quickly, but with an excellent selection of canned beers, impeccable food, and very un-Newport prices, Mission is a rare find.
Settle in with a good book and better coffee at the Broadway outpost of Empire Tea & Coffee (22 Broadway, 401/619-1388, ext. 1, www.empireteaandcoffee.com, 6am-6pm Sun.-Thurs., 6am-8pm Fri.-Sat., $3-6), a rambling café with plenty of spots to work and read. Wireless Internet, well-made espresso, and excellent teas make this an appealing place to while away a rainy day.
It’s worth getting up early to beat the weekend breakfast crowd at the homey Corner Café (110 Broadway, 401/846-0606, www.cornercafenewport.com, 7am-2:30pm Mon.-Wed., 7am-9:30pm Thurs.-Sat., 7am-4pm Sun., $5-15). Hearty omelets come with herb-flecked home fries, and regulars love the Portuguese French toast, but there are pages of options that cover the entire breakfast canon. Morning’s the real draw here, but a lunch menu of salads and sandwiches and the evening pizza lineup are respectable options for an unpretentious meal.
Tucked into the same tony block as the International Tennis Hall of Fame and the Audrain Automobile Museum, Annie’s (176 Bellevue Ave., 401/849-6731, www.anniesewport.com, 7:30am-4:30pm daily, $5-18) is refreshingly old-fashioned and unpretentious. Homey booths and a diminutive diner counter are pleasant places to sit down to a bowl of lobster bisque or corn and clam chowder, and hearty breakfast plates are served all day. House-made corned beef hash and home fries are a local favorite.
Another respite from Bellevue glitz is S Meg’s Aussie Milk Bar (111 Bellevue Ave., 401/619-4811, www.megsmilkbar.com, 8am-3pm Mon.-Sat., $5-12), a cozy breakfast and lunch place run by a Newport local and her Australian husband. Breakfast classics are very reasonably priced, and a lunchtime lineup of soups, salads, and sandwiches are the perfect fuel for browsing the mansions and/or hitting the beach. Australian knickknacks and menu items are an enjoyable touch; hand-sized meat pies are comforting treats, and the uninitiated should try ordering a “Tim Tam Slam” with their hot drink—it’s an Aussie tradition worth globalizing.
An Awful Awful from the Newport Creamery (Newport Mall, 181 Bellevue Ave., 401/846-6332, www.newportcreamery.com, 7am-10pm daily, $4-10) is a summertime tradition in Rhode Island; the name of the thick ice cream shake stands for “awful big, awful good.” A somewhat generic selection of sandwiches and burgers rounds out the menu, and the low prices make the Newport Creamery a decent option for families, but this place is all about the ice cream.
There’s another outpost of Empire Tea & Coffee (112 William St., 401/619-1388, ext. 4, www.empireteaandcoffee.com, 6am-6pm daily, $3-6) just off Bellevue Avenue, which is a convenient place to stop for light lunches, like salads and panini, along with a coffee, tea, and wireless Internet while exploring the sights.
Head past the sandy crescent of Easton’s Beach for another Rhode Island food pilgrimage; S Flo’s Clam Shack (4 Wave Ave., Middletown, 401/847-8141, www.flosclamshacks.com, 11am-9pm daily, $5-22) has been ruling the old-school seafood scene since 1936. Buoys, lobster traps, fishing nets, and Rhode Island kitsch hang from every surface, and the menu features all the seafood shack classics: Golden fried clams come piled atop french fries and coleslaw; generous lobster rolls and oyster rolls overflow from a toasted, buttered hot dog bun; and chowder arrives creamy, clear, or red. Flo’s does brisk business in Rhode Island-style clam cakes, a fried, hush puppy-like dumpling speckled with bits of clam meat that can be ordered singly or by the dozen. When coming to Flo’s during the summer months, be prepared to wait in line; there’s a small parking lot out back, otherwise try across the street, near the park.
Head north from Bellevue Avenue and you can try another Rhode Island classic, jonnycakes, at Newport’s unassuming Bishop’s 4th St. Diner (184 Admiral Kalbfus Rd., 401/847-2069, 6am-2pm Mon.-Fri., 6:30am-2pm Sat.-Sun., $4-9).
From sandy beaches to polo matches, there are plenty of prime picnic spots in town. Pick up basic supplies at the centrally located Stop & Shop (250 Bellevue Ave., 401/848-7200, 7am-10pm daily), or pack your hamper with more elegant fare at Picnic Gourmet (26 Bellevue Ave., 401/619-1181, www.picnicnewport.com, 7am-7pm daily), which spreads out a tempting array of house pastries, baguette sandwiches, soups, and specialty cheeses.
Another excellent stop is Newport Wine Cellar & Gourmet (13 Memorial Blvd., 401/619-3882, www.newportwinecellar.com, 10am-7pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun.), offering ready-to-eat salads, fresh bread, and cheese that pairs well with an excellent wine selection.
Find local provisions at the Aquidneck Growers Market (9am-1pm Sat. year-round, 909 E. Main Rd. Middletown; 2pm-6pm Wed. late-May-Oct., Memorial Blvd between Chapel and Edgar, Newport; 401/848-0099, www.aquidneckgrowersmarket.org), a good place to meet farmers, bakers, fishers, and chefs.
There’s an inn on every corner in Newport’s compact downtown, but finding a bed that won’t break the bank can be a challenge in peak season. Rooms fill up months in advance for popular festival weekends, and many places maintain a two-night minimum on the weekends. That said, there are some incredible places to stay in town, ranging from homey dorms to aristocratic suites, and off-season prices are considerably lower than those listed.
With a central location and a homey atmosphere, William Gyles Guesthouse: Newport International Hostel (16 Howard St., 401/369-0243, www.newporthostel.com, May-Nov., dorm beds $29-79) is an unbeatable budget option for solo travelers and a convivial place to meet other visitors. The hostel’s four-bed, single-gender dorms are slightly cramped but filled with light, and a cozy living room, kitchen, and outdoor porch are available for guest use. The hostel’s friendly tone is set by the owner, an adventurous traveler who’s generous with tips for exploring the area, sometimes offers spontaneous city tours, and has a fleet of bicycles available for rent. A simple breakfast of cereal, toast, tea, and coffee is provided, and the hostel has wireless Internet, but no parking.
The compact rooms at S Crow’s Nest at the Seaman’s Church Institute (18 Market Sq., 401/847-4260, www.crowsnestnewport.com, $135-150) are neat as a pin, decorated with sweet quilts and images of the sea. This unique accommodation was designed as a haven for seamen and fishermen on shore leave, and the Seaman’s Church Institute’s profits still go to providing services for “the men and women of the sea,” as well as other people in need. All rooms share clean communal bathrooms, and visitors have access to the extraordinary ocean-themed Seaman’s Chapel and a library stocked with all the books you need to plan a round-the-world sailing trip. The Crow’s Nest is a wonderful find in Newport; fishers, military, and mariners should inquire about discounts.
Just a short walk from the harbor front, the Burbank Rose (111 Memorial Blvd. W., 401/849-9457, www.theburbankrose.com, $129-265, parking $15) feels like a glimpse into Newport’s past—simple rooms are furnished with old-fashioned charm, and the owner prepares freshly baked pastries for the generous continental breakfast. Three suites are available with a small kitchen and sitting room, and every room has a coffeemaker, flat-screen television, and private bath. The steep, narrow stairs are as authentic as the hospitality, and 3rd-floor suites may be a challenge for some guests.
With an unbeatable location on the Thames Street waterfront, LEED-certified Forty 1° North (351 Thames St., 401/846-8018, www.41north.com, $350-1,100) eschews Newport’s beachy pastels for a palette of muted grays and iridescent highlights—the result is a kind of mermaid modernism. For travelers arriving in Newport on their own yachts, Forty 1° North has a private, full-service marina—for the rest of us, it’s easy to while away an afternoon on the dock, enjoying a cocktail and watching the dock lines fly.
The ultraromantic S Castle Hill Inn (590 Ocean Dr., 401/849-3800, www.castlehillinn.com, $650-900) commands sweeping views of the water and feels like a world apart. Follow rocky footpaths to the Castle Hill Lighthouse, bring a drink down to Grace Kelly Beach, or cruise to downtown on the inn’s motor launch. If a night at the Castle Hill Inn isn’t in your travel budget, it’s worth stopping by the inn’s iconic lawn on a warm afternoon to sip a drink and watch the sails drift past.
Candy-colored decor offers a cheeky, modern take on Newport’s over-the-top style at S Gilded (23 Brinley St., 401/619-7758, www.gildedhotel.com, $300-500). The irreverent design is refreshing and fun; rooms are stocked with iPads, plush linens, smart televisions, and kimono robes; and you can brush up your bank shot or wicket skills at the on-site billiard room and croquet green. Breakfast is a selection of small plates that’s perfect for light appetites, but might send hungry travelers looking for more.
Guests at the historic Admiral Fitzroy Inn (398 Thames St., 866/848-8780, www.admiralfitzroy.com, $119-329, free parking) can escape the ruckus on Thames Street with a rooftop deck and thoughtfully decorated rooms that are light-filled and comfortable. Hot croissants and baked goods are served in an airy breakfast room, along with fresh fruit, yogurt, and granola. An elevator provides wheelchair access to all rooms (though not the rooftop terrace). Don’t miss the Admiral Fitzroy barometer in the lobby—like the inn itself, the barometer was named for the British naval officer and scientist that captained the HMS Beagle during Darwin’s famous expedition, and who revolutionized weather forecasting.
Twenty minutes north of downtown, the Melville Ponds Campground (181 Bradford Ave., Portsmouth, 401/682-2424, www.melvillepondscampground.com, Apr.-mid-Nov., tents $40, RVs $65-90) is a friendly place to put down stakes, with hot showers, picnic tables, fire rings, and a pretty stream through the property. Consult the map on the campground website before booking, as some sites are a fairly long walk from the bathhouses, and beware of holiday weekends and Newport’s festival dates, as sites go up in price and have a two- or three-day minimum.
With an excellent location near Second Beach and the Sachuest Point NWR, Second Beach Family Campground (474 Sachuest Point Rd., Middletown, 401/846-6273, www.middletownri.com, May-Sept., RVs $60-70) has full hookups, but offers few other amenities. Tents are not allowed.
Stock up on brochures, maps, and any other kind of information on the area at the centrally located Newport County Convention & Visitors Bureau (23 America’s Cup Ave., 401/845-9110, www.discovernewport.org, 9am-5pm daily). There’s also parking on-site.
The area’s major hospital is Newport Hospital (11 Friendship St., 401/846-6400, www.lifespan.org/newport). Local pharmacies include Rite Aid (268 Bellevue Ave., 401/846-1631, www.riteaid.com) and CVS (181 Bellevue Ave., 401/846-7800, www.cvs.com, pharmacy hours 8am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-8pm Sat.-Sun.). A handful of banks are found on Thames Street, and several ATMs are located on Thames Street and on Bellevue Avenue, as well as at the bus station and in convenience stores. Free Internet access is available in several local cafés and at the majority of hotels (offered to guests only) in town. Faxing and shipping services are offered at The UPS Store (270 Bellevue Ave., 401/848-7600, www.theupsstore.com).
Newport’s Thames Street area and Bellevue Avenue can get clogged with traffic during peak season, and parking can also be a challenge during summer months; the largest public lot is at Gateway Center (23 America’s Cup Ave., $2 per half hour, $1.50 each additional half hour, $24.50 all-day maximum), and metered parking is available in the center for $2 per hour.
For visitors who prefer to leave their cars parked, it’s easy to visit the main attractions on Bellevue Avenue on the #67 RIPTA buses (401/784-9500, ext. 2012, www.ripta.com/67, $2), which run frequently every day of the week. Another good way to get around is by bicycle; rent one at Mansion Rentals (113 Memorial Blvd. W., 401/619-5778, www.mansionrentalsri.com, 9am-7pm daily, $7 per hour, $25 full day). Taxi service is available from Atlantic Taxi Service (401/239-6600, www.atlantictaxinewport.com), or you can get squired around in a two-wheeled pedicab by Newport Pedicab (401/432-5498, www.newportpedicab.com).
After winding through the folds of Narragansett Bay, the Rhode Island coast makes a run for it at the edge of the Atlantic, breezing past a series of sandy barrier beaches and clam shacks. The shoreline can fill to the brim on warm summer weekends, but head inland and the whole place retains a rural feel, with nature preserves and miles of farmland. Pack a beach blanket and some tanning oil, and find your stretch of sand—from the rollicking party feel of the Narragansett Town Beach to the gorgeous Napatree Point and everything in between.
South County beach
Better known as a bay, beer, and Native American tribe, Narragansett was once America’s first seaside resort, drawing Gilded Age tourists to frolic ’til dawn at its swanky beachfront casino. After the casino burned down in 1900, the community underwent a slow decline that left it overshadowed by neighboring Newport. These days it’s all beach and is considered the best surfing destination in South County, with gentle, beginner-friendly waves and board rental places that pull up to the edge of the water.
The migration to this swath of shore starts first thing in the morning, with groups laden down by blankets, umbrellas, and everything for a full day of serious beach time. The town beach is a great stop for novice surfers, as the waves tend to stay under shoulder high, and they’re relatively gentle. Rent a board or sign up for lessons from Warm Winds (town beach south parking lot, 401/789-9040, www.warmwinds.com, rentals $25-55, group lessons from $50), which also has a surf report hotline (401/789-7020).
Pavilions by the entrance to the beach have food, first-aid, and restrooms, though they’re only open when admission is charged mid-June-Labor Day ($8 adults, children under 12 free). Parking on-site is $10 on weekdays, $15 on weekends—if you’re willing to walk, though, continue south from the beach along Ocean Road, where it’s usually possible to find an unmetered parking spot at the edge of the road.
Facing south from the village of Point Judith, this is one of the best beaches for families, with mild waves and a playground on-site. There are picnic tables, a pavilion with coin-operated showers, and food, and the fine sand is especially comfortable for lounging. Parking for nonresidents is $12 on weekdays and $14 on weekends, and lifeguards are on duty 9am-6pm daily in season.
To experience the real scope of Narragansett Bay, you have to get out on the water—Rhode Island Bay Cruises (1347 Roger Williams Way, North Kingstown, 401/295-4040, www.rhodeislandbaycruises.com, 1.5-hour cruises from $30 adults, $28 seniors, $16 youth under 13) runs a regular schedule of cruises that loop down through the bay, past 10 lighthouses, and over to Newport and Aquidneck Island. Some of the lighthouses are quite a distance away, so it’s worth packing a pair of binoculars.
Set back on the river that flows out to Narragansett Town Beach, Narrow River Kayaks (94 Middlebridge Rd., 401/789-0334, www.narrowriverkayaks.com, kayaks/stand-up paddleboards from $25/35) has rental boats to take out on a very gentle river that’s blissfully uncrowded even when the beach is packed. Go bird-watching in the warm shallows, paddle out to Gooseberry Island, or head upriver for a glimpse of a less developed side of the Rhode Island coast.
Aside from the snack-bar style options at the Narragansett Town Beach pavilions, restaurants are a bit thin on the ground. One exception is the beloved Crazy Burger Café and Juice Bar (144 Boon St., 401/783-1810, www.crazyburger.com, 8am-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 8am-9:30pm Fri.-Sat., $5-13), which has a good selection of vegan entrées and solid breakfasts in addition to the namesake burgers and juice (as well as a fabulous key lime pie). This place tends to be busy, so come prepared for a wait on weekends. By the beach itself, The Coast Guard House (40 Ocean Rd., 401/789-0700, www.thecoastguardhouse.com, 11:30am-midnight Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-1am Fri.-Sat., 10am-midnight Sun., $11-40) might not stand out for its menu of seafood and American fare, but views from the deck and terrace are so good it almost doesn’t matter. This is prime territory for sunset drinks and snacks.
Just across from Point Judith, the S Matanuck Oyster Bar (629 Succotash Rd., South Kingston, 401/783-4202, www.rhodyoysters.com, 11:30am-10pm daily, $18-40) is worth the trip for refined seafood at the edge of the water. Above all, though, this place is all about bivalves, with a raw bar that uses oysters from the bar’s own oyster farm, which is run by the marine biologist owner.
For a more down-home take on seafood, Iggy’s Doughboys (1151 Point Judith Rd., 401/783-5608, www.iggysdoughboys.com, 11am-8pm daily, $4-15) is a Rhode Island classic. The “doughboys” themselves are bits of fried dough rolled in powdered sugar, and bowls of chowder come in red, white, and clear—those correspond to Manhattan style, the New England version, and Rhode Island’s own take, with clams and potatoes swimming in a salty broth. The fish-and-chips is also excellent, super-flaky fresh cod in a crisp crust, and this is a good place to try stuffed quahogs, hard-shelled clams filled with minced clam meat. There’s plenty of outdoor seating here, but for a quieter meal, take your food to the beach—continue down Point Judith Road until it takes a big swing to the left, and a small path heads straight to the shore.
The town of Narragansett, and the villages that extend from it, is accessible from Route 1, with the smaller Route 1A/Ocean Road running along the shore. To reach the beaches by public transit, the best bet is to travel to the West Kingston Amtrak Station (1 Railroad Ave., West Kingston, 800/872-7245, www.amtrak.com).
The most rural of the South County towns, a patchwork of farms and cottages runs right up to the incredible, seven-mile Charlestown Town Beach (557 Charlestown Beach Rd., 401/364-1222, www.charlestownri.org, nonresident parking $20, cash only). While the beach can get crowded, this is often the best place to go when other Rhode Island beaches are overflowing with out-of-towners—come early to stake out the best possible beachfront. The only food available is a little hot dog wagon, so bring a cooler if you’re staying for the day.
On the other end of the big lagoon, East Beach/Ninigret Conservation Area (East Beach Rd., 401/322-0540) is one of the least developed beaches along the southern coast—three miles of sand that runs between the Atlantic Ocean and Ninigret Pond—and a favorite spot for bird-watching. Parking spots are very limited, so it’s a bit of a risky bet in season.
Charlestown is accessible from Route 1, which runs through the forest with spur roads to the coast. This area is not accessible by public transportation.
Another narrow stretch between a lagoon and the sea, Misquamicut State Beach (Atlantic Ave., 401/596-9097) is a summery vacation town that’s popular with families, though the adjoining restaurants and services have seen better days.
Just about the only place on the south coast where you can get bar service from a beach chair, Misquamicut has several restaurants that extend all the way onto the sand, notably The Andrea (89 Atlantic Ave., 401/348-8788, www.andreaseaside.com, 11am-1am daily, $9-24), a landmark beach bar and restaurant with long rows of Adirondack chairs. The Andrea also has a webcam that’s permanently trained on the beach, which is a good place to check if you want to see how packed the beach is. Beach parking for nonresidents is $28, but it’s usually possible to find cheaper options if you’re willing to walk.
Running parallel to Route 1A, Misquamicut’s “strip” is Atlantic Avenue, with a series of beach access points and parking lots. This area is not accessible by public transportation.
Maybe it’s the influence of nearby Connecticut that makes this village so much tonier than the rest of the southern coast, but Watch Hill is decidedly genteel. The finest beach here is the lovely Napatree Point (Westerly, 401/348-2500, www.oceanchamber.org, free 2-hour parking), a slender, sandy spit that points straight out into the sea before looping back onto itself.
It’s easily among the loveliest beaches in Rhode Island, and you can walk with views of the ocean to each side, just a ruff of dune grass dividing the two shorelines. Though the most sought-after sighting in Watch Hill is Taylor Swift, whose sprawling beach house is a local landmark, this is a great place for watching birds, including piping plover and osprey.
On the way to the beach, you’ll pass the Flying Horse Carousel (151 Bay St., 401/348-6007, www.watchhillbeachandcarousel.com, 11am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-9pm Sat.-Sun., $1), a 19th-century beauty whose horses are outfitted with real horsehair tails and swing from long chains. To preserve the carousel’s antique horses, it’s only open to children under five feet and 100 pounds. If kids can snag the brass ring as they pass, it’s good for a free ride. From the carousel, follow Bay Street 0.5 mile south to the Watch Hill Lighthouse (Lighthouse Rd., www.watchhilllighthousekeepers.org), a squat tower that’s almost entirely surrounded by water. There’s a small on-site museum (1pm-3pm Tues.-Thurs. July-Aug., free) that explores the life and work of a lighthouse keeper.
To reach Watch Hill’s main sights, turn onto Watch Hill Road from Route 1A, then follow it until it loops through the Watch Hill Historic District. This area is not accessible by public transportation.
An isle of wild roses and coastal cliffs, Block Island offers a glimpse of the New England coast as it once was. The nonprofit Block Island Conservancy has preserved almost half the island from development, so it’s free from the runaway vacation homes that crowd other coastal getaways.
And since humans aren’t the only visitors that love Block Island’s coast and wetlands, it’s become a pilgrimage place for bird-watchers, who travel to the island each fall to spot some of the migratory birds that stop on their long flight south—even amateurs should pack a pair of binoculars.
The island’s main town of Old Harbor is a compact cluster of shops and bike rental places that can get clogged with tourists during summer weekends, but it’s always possible to escape the crowds on one of the trails that loop through the island interior. This is the place to leave your car on the mainland and explore by bike or moped, following the island’s back roads to beaches, dunes, and coves. And when the sun sinks low above Block Island Sound, join the human migration toward outdoor decks in Old Harbor and by the Great Salt Pond, where sunset drinks kick off the island’s laid-back nightlife.
Perched way up on the cliffs of Mohegan Bluffs, this lighthouse has kept ships from the treacherous coast of Block Island since 1874. A National Historic Landmark, the lighthouse and attached keeper’s house are brick red and rather elegant, with a blend of Gothic Revival and Victorian architecture. The modern-day light is mounted on a nearby steel tower, and the old-fashioned version is now a small museum that’s open for tours (122 Mohegan Tr., 401/466-5009, 11am-5pm daily early July-mid-Sept., free). Though the grounds of the lighthouse are open each day sunrise-sunset, the volunteer-run museum has somewhat sporadic hours that are limited to the weekend during the shoulder season. For updated information about visiting the museum, call the Southeast Lighthouse phone number, or try the Block Island Tourism Council (800/383-2474).
Though its location isn’t as dramatic as its southern cousin, the 55-foot-tall granite North Lighthouse (Corn Neck Rd., 401/466-3200, www.lighthouse.cc/blockinorth, early July-early Sept.) keeps watch over the northernmost point of the island at the end of a rocky beach. Inside, a small museum details the history of Block Island shipwrecks and rescues.
The island’s agricultural past comes alive, sort of, at Manisses Animal Farm (Spring St. and High St., 401/466-2421, www.theinnatblockisland.com, dawn-dusk daily, free), an exotic animal farm at the Hotel Manisses with llamas, camels, fainting goats, and a zebu named Zeke.
For more about the history of the island, drop by the Block Island Historical Society (Old Town Rd., 401/466-2481, https://blockislandhistorical.org, 11am-4pm daily late June-early Sept., 11am-4pm Sat.-Sun. early Sept.-mid-Oct., off-season by appointment, $6 adults, $4 students and seniors), which maintains a series of well-labeled exhibits on 16th- and 17th-century farming and household life, as well as several rooms set up in the style of the island’s heyday of Victorian tourism.
The first thing you’ll spot on the boat into Old Harbor are the broad decks that grace the front of downtown hotels, and decks are the place to be when the sun goes down. A standby in the middle of town is the National Hotel (36 Water St., 401/466-2901, www.nationalri.com, 7:30am-11pm daily high season, call for hours in the off- and shoulder-season), a grand dame hotel with a deep, shady deck that’s ideal for early evening margaritas—and when the stars come out, head around the back to the hotel’s fire pit. Hidden from view on the water side, the bar at The Surf Hotel (32 Dodge St., 401/466-2241, www.thesurfhotelbi.com, 5pm-11pm daily) has gorgeous views of Crescent Beach and catches delicious summer breezes from the ocean.
Half a mile from the strip in Old Harbor, the S Spring House Hotel (52 Spring St., 401/466-5844, www.springhouseblockisland.com, 3pm-sunset daily) lays out long lines of Adirondack chairs with gorgeous water views, and rolls out a menu of drinks and tapas that’s just available on the lawn.
But for the very best sunset drinks on the island, make the (short) trek to the Great Salt Pond, where The Oar (221 Jobs Hill Rd., 401/466-8820, 11:30am-9pm daily) has perfect views of the placid boat basin. Grab a frozen drink and settle in on the deck, or at one of the picnic tables that dot the waterside lawn.
The most exciting time on the island is during Block Island Race Week (914/834-8857, www.blockislandraceweek.com), held in June of odd-numbered years. Some 2,000 sailors and 200 boats from around the world vie for trophies during a week of regattas and onshore partying. An off-season highlight of the island calendar is the Block Island Christmas Stroll (800/383-2474, www.blockislandinfo.com, late Nov.), a post-Thanksgiving celebration that lights up the streets of Old Harbor with music and merriment.
It’s impossible to miss Block Island’s shopping, which lines the main street of Old Harbor to catch day-trippers as they step off the ferry. You’ll find lots of T-shirts with vacation sloganeering, as well as every conceivable thing that can be imprinted with the distinctive silhouette of Block Island.
If you’re looking to stock up on snacks or picnic fare, the island’s main outlet is Block Island Grocery (101 Ocean Ave., 401/466-2949, 8am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-9pm Sun.). The food is quite a bit more expensive than on the mainland, so self-caterers might want to bring their preferred foods along.
A short walk north from Old Harbor, Crescent Beach (Water St.) stretches 2.5 miles in a wide, sweeping curve of gorgeous yellow sand, making it a favorite for day-trippers. In general, families crowd the southern portion, while teenagers and couples take over the less crowded north side. Midway up the sand is Fred Benson Town Beach, where you’ll find a pavilion with food, as well as beach chairs and umbrellas to rent.
Even on hot August days, the relative inaccessibility of Vail Beach (Snake Hole Rd., off Mohegan Tr.) leaves it spectacularly quiet. The beach, which is a crunchy blend of rock and sand, is located down a 150-foot-long stairway that slants down the face of Mohegan Bluffs, with no services.
More than 30 miles of trails crisscross the island landscape, a marvelous network called The Greenway. Pick up a hiking map at the chamber of commerce office near the ferry landing (1 Water St., 401/466-2982, www.blockislandchamber.com, 9am-5pm daily, maps $2).
The centerpiece of Block Island’s conservation land is Rodman’s Hollow (Cooneymus Rd.), a 230-acre basin scooped out by glaciers 10,000 years ago and now filled with forested meadows and maritime shrub land. To enter the hollow, which is on the southwestern side of the island, turn onto Black Rock Road off Cooneymus Road; 0.25 mile from the turnoff, you’ll see a wooden turnstile on the left, leading to a 0.9-mile loop trail. If you’re visiting the island in mid-May, this is the perfect place to catch the “shad bloom,” when the island’s shad trees flourish with silvery blossoms.
On the north side of the island, trails through Clay Head Preserve lead to a quiet beach and the Clay Head Bluffs, the cliffs that are visible from the ferry. The Clay Head Trail takes off from the eastern side of Corn Neck Road, just under 3 miles north of the intersection with Ocean Avenue. Follow the first stretch of trail 0.3 mile toward the ocean, then you’ll reach an intersection: Turn right to head to the beach, or turn left to climb into the Clay Head Bluffs, where a wandering network of footpaths are known as The Maze.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Bicycles are just about perfect for exploring Block Island, and you’ll find a handful of places to rent some wheels as soon as you step off the ferry. For the full experience, set out on the 16-mile Block Island Bicycle Tour (www.so-new.org/tour/block-island-bicycle-tour), a route that loops past all the island’s major (and minor) sights, including both lighthouses, the Mohegan Bluffs, and lots of sandy beaches, with scannable QR codes and little historical tidbits at a series of twelve stops. Maps of the tour are available at the visitors center by the ferry landing (1 Water St., 401/466-2982, www.blockislandchamber.com, 9am-5pm daily, free) or from the bike rental places, but it’s also possible to follow along on your phone.
bicycle rental shop on Block Island
Most of the bike rental places in town have comparable prices and quality, but Island Moped Rentals (Chapel St., behind the Harborside Inn, 401/466-5925, www.bimopeds.com, full day $30, 3 days $40) has one of the biggest selections, including kid trailers and baby seats.
The sheltered Great Salt Pond makes for some of the best paddling—both kayaks and stand-up paddleboards—on the island, with oyster farms to explore and little coves that are ideal for nosing around. Rentals are available from Fort Island Kayaks (40 Ocean Ave., 401/466-5392, www.sandypointco.com, rentals from $25), and the company also offers guided kayak and stand-up paddleboard fishing tours, as well as longer charters. A handful of fishing charter companies are based in Block Island, and most run trips out to the big wind farm south of the island—the structures have created an artificial reef that attracts a remarkable variety of fish.
The cute and compact S Persephone’s Kitchen (235 Dodge St., 401/466-5070, www.persephoneskitchenbi.com, 7am-4pm daily, $5-12) is a fresh, vegetarian break from the fried fare and seafood served at many island restaurants. A menu of breakfast sandwiches, fancy varieties of toast, smoothies, and “bowls” leans healthy, and there’s house-made baked goods to go with the café’s strong coffee.
Owned by Molly, Brigid, and Maria Price, Three Sisters (443 Old Town Rd., 401/466-9661, 11:30am-2:30pm daily, $7-23) offers oversized sandwiches with funky names and soups like sweet potato-apple. On some evenings, the shop stays open for dinner under the name Mister Sister, and islanders congregate for barbecue ribs, the catch of the day, and live music under the stars.
Sidle up to the window at Rebecca’s Seafood Takeout (435 Water St., 401/466-5411, www.rebeccasseafood.com, 7am-8pm Mon.-Tues. and Thurs., 7am-2am Wed. and Fri.-Sun., $5-15) for wraps, seafood sandwiches, fish-and-chips, and other snack bar fare, including a full range of fried seafood. Service is quick, and there are picnic tables outside, but it’s just as easy to head down to the water and eat with a view.
In the middle of Old Harbor, Mohegan Cafe and Brewery (Water St., 401/466-5911, 11:30am-9:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-10pm Sat., 11:30am-9pm Sun. May-Oct., hours vary in winter, $17.95-23.95) is in the middle of the road in other ways as well. With a big menu that includes burgers to fancy steaks, a wine list and decent beer selection, and a casual atmosphere, it’s a family-friendly option that turns into a convivial drinking spot.
The laid-back Poor People’s Pub (30 Ocean Ave., 401/466-8533, www.pppbi.com, 11:30am-1am daily, $11-25) specializes in mac and cheese with fancy fixings, served sizzling-hot in a skillet, but the menu runs to a solid selection of pub food, burgers, snacks, and a solid lobster and corn chowder.
While most of the island leans casual, Winfield’s (214 Corn Neck Rd., 401/466-5856, www.winfieldsbi.com, 6pm-10pm daily, $26-37) is romantic and thoroughly grown-up. The kitchen consistently turns out the best food on Block Island, from filet mignon to lamb chops, squid salad, and duck confit prepared by a self-taught Texas chef.
Finding a place to stay on Block Island on a budget can be difficult, especially in the high season, when many accommodations have a three-night minimum. A good resource is the Block Island Chamber of Commerce (1 Water St., 800/383-2474, www.blockislandchamber.com), which maintains a list of any specials and discounted rates.
After a full overhaul for the 2017 season, the Seacrest Inn (207 High St., 401/466-5504, $80-240) is spic and span, and it’s still one of the most inexpensive places to stay on the island. All rooms have private (though tiny) baths, televisions, air-conditioning, and reasonably comfortable queen beds, and the decor is updated and modern. There’s no Wi-Fi available on the premises, and the inn is managed by the Harborside Inn by the ferry landing, where guests pick up their keys.
From the turret atop Sheffield House (351 High St., 401/466-2494 or 866/466-2494, www.sheffieldhousebi.com, shared bath $180-210, private bath $220-260), you get a picture-perfect view of the ocean (and the creatures at the adjoining animal farm). It’s walking distance from the action in town, but far enough away to feel calm in the middle of the summer, and the innkeepers serve a hearty breakfast each morning. Rooms are old-fashioned and sweet, with quilts and flowered wallpaper, and the inn’s blooming honeysuckle means that some rooms are infused with a heady fragrance.
Among all the old-fashioned choices, S The Darius Inn (62 Dodge St., 401/466-2722, www.dariusblockisland.com, rooms $150-400, suites $195-565) is downright cool, like visiting the beach house of an ultrahip friend. Bright and cheery decor pulls in many vintage and secondhand elements, with quirky art and tons of character. Rates include a hot, healthy breakfast and an evening cocktail hour, when guests gather on the back lawn. The inn is especially friendly to travelers with pets, though some rooms are designated animal free.
While many of the Victorian landmarks on the island are faded with time and salt air, the elegant Spring House Hotel (Spring St., 401/466-5844 or 800/234-9263, www.springhousehotel.com, $125-450) remains luxurious. Rooms are tastefully decorated with pastels and floral bedspreads, some with private baths as big as the bedrooms, but the gorgeous veranda is the real joy here, a big, shady porch made for whiling away a summer afternoon. The Spring House Hotel has a long history on the island, and notes on its website that it has hosted “notable guests such as President Ulysses S. Grant, Mark Twain, and Billy Joel.” (Oh, Rhode Island.)
Brochures and advice are available from the Block Island Chamber of Commerce (1 Water St., 800/383-2474, www.blockislandchamber.com, 9am-5pm daily), which runs a visitors center at the ferry landing in Old Harbor.
There is no major hospital on the island, but The Block Island Medical Center (6 Payne Rd., 401/466-2974) offers daily care and emergency services. ATMs aren’t easy to find, though there are a couple near the ferry terminal, as well as at the Chamber Visitors Center (Old Harbor, 800/383-2474, www.blockislandinfo.com), Winfield’s Restaurant (214 Corn Neck Rd., 401/466-5856), and Washington Trust Company (123 Ocean Ave., 401/466-7710, www.washtrust.com).
Internet services on the island are often quite slow, but Island Free Library (Dodge St., 401/466-3233, www.islandfreelibrary.org) offers free access with no password, so you can pick up a signal even after the library is closed for the day.
The easiest way to get to the island is by ferry. Block Island Ferry (401/783-7996, www.blockislandferry.com) runs a car ferry year-round from Point Judith (34 Great Island Rd., Galilee, 55 min., round-trip $26 adults, $25 seniors, $13 children 5-11, $7 bicycles, $80 vehicles), as well as a high-speed ferry (May-Nov., 30 min., round-trip $38 adults, $22 children 5-11, $12 children under 5, $8 bicycles) from the same location.
Parking lots are a cottage industry in Point Judith, where most places charge $10 per day. There are, however, one or two places that charge $5, so it’s worth circling the very small strip to look for options.
Summer ferry service is also available from Newport (Perrotti Park, 39 America’s Cup Ave., late June-early Sept., 1 hr., round-trip $51 adults, $26 children 5-11, $12 bicycles) and Fall River, Massachusetts (State Pier, 1 Water St., late June-early Sept., 1 hr., round-trip $30 adults, $14 children 5-11, $6 bicycles).
From Connecticut, Block Island Express (2 Ferry St., New London, 860/444-4624 or 401/466-2212, www.goblockisland.com, 1.25 hrs., round-trip $53 adults, $27 children 5-11, $20 bicycles) runs a fast ferry from New London. And departing from Montauk is the Viking Fleet (462 W. Lake Dr., 631/668-6668, www.vikingfleet.com, 1.25 hrs., round-trip $80 adults, $50 children 5-12, children under 5 free, $10 bicycles).
Block Island also sees a limited amount of air traffic. New England Airlines (56 Airport Rd., Westerly, 800/243-2460, www.blockislandsairline.com) has regular flights from Westerly Airport in South County.
Cars are not only unnecessary on Block Island, they are liable to be more hassle than they are worth, and renting a bicycle or moped is highly recommended. Lining up to meet each ferry, several taxis give tours of the island, including Monica’s Taxi (401/742-0000) and Mig’s Rig (401/480-0493, www.migsrigtaxi.com); most of the taxis charge about $75 for a tour that runs between 60-90 minutes for up to four people, with supplemental fares of $10 per person after that.