The American elk closely resembles the red deer of Europe and Asia and is now regarded by mammalogists as belonging in the same species. The red deer is smallest in Scotland where it is about the size of a mule deer. But on the continent, it is larger and becomes progressively larger eastward into Asia. In Mongolia and Siberia the red deer is called the maral and is nearly the size of the American elk. In Europe, Scandinavia, and eastward, the animal we call the moose is referred to as elk. This can cause some confusion when American sportsmen are discussing trophy hunting with their European counterparts.
In North America there are three primary subspecies of elk: the American elk, which grow the largest antlers; the Roosevelt’s elk of the coastal areas of the northwest, which are the largest bodied elk; and the smaller tule elk of the valleys of central California. American elk, Roosevelt’s elk, and tule elk are separated by the boundary lines described in Chapter 2.
The measurement of American elk differs from Roosevelt’s and tule elk. Racks of mature American elk bulls normally show six points on each side (including main beam tip as a counted, but not individually measured, point). Trophies with seven, or even more normal points are occasionally found. American elk racks are often very symmetrical.
Roosevelt’s and tule elk are more inclined to develop several extra points adjacent to and above the major G-4 point as shown in figure 7-A. These extra points are called “crown points” (the presence of several often produces a cup-shaped “crown,” thus the name), just as they are in red deer. These crown points often develop in a very non-symmetric pattern especially on very large, mature bulls and are a highly desirable characteristic of these elk. For this reason, these extra points on or above G-4 are rewarded in the measuring system by adding their lengths into the total score without a deduction for lack of symmetry.
American elk also display some tendency to develop crown points but to a lesser extent. Often a mature American elk may have points immediately above G-4 that protrude more from the side of the beam than from the top (figure 7-B). These points do not follow the usual highly structured pattern of American elk and are treated as abnormal points. Other abnormal points may be present on mature bulls. Since the occurrence of bulls with abnormal points is common, a separate non-typical American elk category exists. As Roosevelt’s and tule elk are measured in a different fashion, there is no need for non-typical categories for these subspecies of elk.
As indicated in Chapter 3, a measurable point is any projection at least one inch long and longer than wide at some location at least one inch from the tip of the projection. (Each projection should be measured to ascertain whether it is or is not a point.) Once it is determined that a projection is a point then the entire point length is measured from its tip down to its base. Point base lines are established where the point joins either the main beam or another point. The base should reflect the normal antler configuration as if the point was not present.
If you are scoring an American elk, you need to decide if the animal should be scored as a typical or non-typical once you have identified the 6 or more normal points. In most cases it will be quite obvious. If there is any doubt, consider the number of abnormal points. If there are no or only a couple of short abnormal points, the rack should first be scored as a typical. If there are several to numerous abnormal points, use the non-typical score chart. Regardless, there is no difference in how typical and non-typical American elk are scored; all measurements are the same in both categories. The real difference between the two categories is that the total of the lengths of the abnormal points is deducted to arrive at the typical score and added in to arrive at the non-typical score.
Once you have scored a trophy, you can transfer the measurements from a typical score chart to a non-typical score chart to determine the non-typical score. If you used a non-typical score chart, you can transfer the measurements to a typical score chart to arrive at the typical score for the same trophy. In most cases, a trophy will make the minimum in only one category. If a trophy qualifies for both categories, it is the owner’s option to choose which the trophy will be listed in as it cannot appear in both. It is strongly suggested, however, that such a trophy be listed in the category where it ranks the highest.
The length of beam and antler point length measurement may be taken by the use of the flexible steel cable or a 1/4-inch wide flexible, steel clip-end tape. The use of a round, flexible steel cable (such as a bicycle brake cable) greatly speeds up the measuring process while still yielding an accurate measurement. However, only the steel tape can be used for circumference measurements
In the past, elk with skull plates that had been fractured or shattered by a bullet, dropping, etc., were not acceptable for entry in B&C. However, it is now possible to enter such trophies, so long as the pieces can be perfectly pieced back together and the spread measurements taken. Skull plates that have been sawn in half still are not eligible for entry in B&C. Each damaged skull is considered on a case by case basis. See the Shed Antlers/Split Skulls policy for complete details of this policy.
For measurement of length, the cable is positioned along the outer curve of the beam or point. The end of the measurement is marked by attaching an alligator clip to the cable at the proper spot. The cable is then removed and held in a straight line against a clip-end tape or folding carpenter’s rule to record the length measurement. The clip-end tape is often faster to use when antler points are generally straight as the clip-end can easily be hooked on the end of the antler point and the tape stretched across the point’s base line. When using a 1/4-inch wide tape on a curved point or antler beam, the measurer will need to mark locations and pivot the tape along the line of measurement. Be sure to align the tape at the appropriate length when pivoting the tape.
The length of antler beam measurement is illustrated on the score chart, being generally a line from the antler burr to the beam tip. The measurement begins at the point where the center line of the antler along the outer side intersects the burr. To determine the starting point, find the middle of the burr as the antlers are viewed from the side. It is neither at the lower front edge, nor at the rear edge of the beam, but rather at the outside center of the burr.
The measurement proceeds on the outer side the beam on out to the beam tip. In general, this line should stay near the middle of the beam on the outer side. Since the antler beams on most mature elk tend to roll, it is very helpful to first mark the point bases for the normal points. These base lines will provide reference points that help the measurer stay near the middle of the beam. The line can be measured from either the burr to the tip or from the tip to the burr. If an abnormal point (or antler projection) is in the line of measurement, simply find the shortest path around the point and continue the measurement.
In rare instances, it may be necessary to use calipers to determine an accurate length of main beam measurement because of an obstructing point or growth. If this is the case, make tick marks immediately before and after the obstruction to mark the path of the main beam through it. Then, measure the distance from the burr to the obstruction with a cable, and use calipers to measure the distance through the obstruction. Finish by measuring the distance from the opposite side of the obstruction to the beam tip with a cable. Record all three measurements and add them together to arrive at the length of the main beam and record it on the score chart.
After the measurement of the beam lengths, the lengths of the normal points are recorded. Keep in mind the following general rules for elk points:
1) Normal points arise from the front (G-1, G-2), side (G-3), and top (G-4, G-5, etc.) of the main beam at roughly spaced intervals and are usually paired with similar points on the other antler in a symmetrical pattern.
2) Prior to January 2008, an extra pair of normal points could occur below the large dagger points (figure 7-C). When this happened, the dagger points were renamed the G-5 points, the G-5s became G-6s, etc. This is no longer the case. Any sets of matched points below the G-4 points, other than the normal G-1, G-2, and G-3 points, are always abnormal.
3) Points arising from the side or bottom of the main beam are always abnormal or crown points (see the discussion that follows for clarification of crown points).
4) If an elk has an unmatched G-1, G-2, or G-3 point (figure 7-D), this point should be treated as a normal point. It should be entered on the score chart as a normal point and (like G-1 on mule deer) a zero or dash entered on the opposite side for the missing point. Above G-4, one cannot have an unmatched normal point on American elk unless the point is matched against one that is completely broken off or unless the unmatched point is at the end of the beam. For American elk, if an unmatched point occurs between two normal points above G-4, it is treated as an abnormal (non-symmetry) point. On Roosevelt’s and tule elk, it would be measured as a normal point. Below G-4, an unmatched point that is not a G-1, G-2, or G-3 point is an abnormal (non-symmetry) point for all three species of elk.
5) While the score chart shows space for recording only seven normal points, there is no upper limit to how many normal points can occur on an elk antler. In the extreme rarity that more than seven normal points (not including the beam tip) occur, the measurements of the extra point(s) may be included as a separate, additional line or as a separate attachment. Be sure to explain this action in the REMARKS section.
The scoring of Roosevelt’s and tule elk differs from American elk in regards to the treatment of “crown” points. Roosevelt’s and tule elk may have one to several extra points, not counting other normal points (G-5, G-6, etc.), on or above the G-4 dagger point. These “crown points” may display a wide variety of configurations and may not match from side to side on the antlers. On Roosevelt’s and tule elk, the measurer must still identify normal points past G-4 if they exist. Normal points past G-4 project upward from the top of the beam. Often the G-5 point may be separated from the G-4 point by several other points that project from the side of the beam. Figure 7-E presents various illustrations of crown points. The normal points are recorded in their proper blanks on the score chart. All other points on or in the vicinity of G-4, or above G-4, on Roosevelt’s and tule elk are measured as crown points and entered in the blanks provided in the upper right corner of the score chart.
The total of the lengths of the crown points is added in as a step in obtaining the final score. Roosevelt’s and tule elk may have abnormal points as well as crown points. Abnormal points are any projections below G-4 that are not the normal G-1, G-2, and G-3 points. The total of the lengths of the abnormal points for both Roosevelt’s and tule elk (like typical American elk) is deducted from the score total.
Another difference occurs in the treatment of point length differences. Since the pattern of points above G-4 on Roosevelt’s and tule elk may be highly influenced by crown points, no point length deductions are taken for normal points beyond G-4.
To summarize, differences in the treatment of points on American elk and both Roosevelt’s and tule elk are:
1) Abnormal points on Roosevelt’s and tule elk (points off other points, points from underside of beam, extra paired or unpaired points not G-1, G-2, or G-3) occur only below G-4.
2) Roosevelt’s and tule elk crown points would be considered abnormal points on American elk. One common occurrence of this on American elk is the presence of a pair (one on each antler) of large points immediately past G-4 that project more from the side (tilt out) than from the top. As previously noted, these are abnormal points on American elk.
3) On Roosevelt’s and tule elk abnormal, non-symmetry points can only occur below G-4; on American elk they can be either above or below G-4.
4) Point branches (points off of other points) are always abnormal points. On Roosevelt’s and tule elk such branches on or above G-4 are treated as crown points.
The lengths of the individual points are recorded in the proper blanks on the score chart. Points are measured either from the base lines established on the main beam to the tip of each point or from point tip to the base line. Either method should yield the same result. Generally, points end in a sharp cone shape, with the measurement being to the tip of this cone. Should the point end in a noticeably blunted condition, somewhat like a human thumb, the measurement line can be continued to the midpoint of the rounding.
Establishment of the base lines for individual point measurement is straightforward. The base line is established to separate that material properly called main beam from the material of the point (or to separate an abnormal point from its “parent” point). Properly drawn, the base line should delineate the same amount of beam (or “parent” point) material below it as can be ascertained on either side of the point. This is especially critical in elk as the beam often twists and decreases in diameter at some point locations. One should remain parallel with the contour of the lower edge of the beam when establishing a base line to ensure that the point base line has not cut too deeply into the main beam (figure 7-F).
Antler points are measured along the outer side of their curve. In most cases the normal points curve inward and are simply measured on the outside of the rack. But, should a point curve outward (often G-6 points will), it would be appropriate to measure it on the inside of the rack and thus reflect properly the outer curve of the point.
One item to note is the taking of the length of the G-1 point. The base line for G-1 is drawn from the top of the beam just next to the burr to the top of the beam between G-1 and G-2 on the outer side of the beam. The length of G-1 is then measured from the tip, over the curve, to the center of this point on the outer side. It is not taken over the curve to the burr! The proper line of measurement begins at the tip and proceeds over the curve of G-1 and then angles across the point to the center mark that is on the outer side as shown in figure 7-G. If the G-1 point is “bent” downward rather than in the usual upward fashion, the measurement of its length is taken in same way except now the line is coming up from the tip of the point. The same procedure of following the outer curve applies to abnormal points as well.
The four circumferences (H-1, H-2, H-3, and H-4) are taken by the use of a ring-end tape by looping the tape around the beam, with the zero mark up. Pull the tape together and gently move it along the beam until the smallest circumference measurement is obtained. This value is then recorded as the circumference for that location. If you use a clip-end tape to measure circumferences, overlap the tape a full 10 inch increment to simplify the procedure. Be sure to subtract the amount of overlap before recording the measurement.
Undoubtedly, elk trophies large enough to reach the current All-time records book minimums will have at least five normal points (not including the beam tip) on each antler. For such trophies the four circumferences will be taken between points in the usual manner described on the score chart. However, should there be only four normal points (not including the beam tip) on the antler, the H-4 circumference should be taken halfway between the G-4 point and the antler tip. To take this measurement properly, determine the center of the base of G-4 where it meets the main beam measurement line, then measure from this point to the beam tip. The halfway point of this line is the correct location for the H-4 circumference.
If a point is broken completely off, take the measurement in the usual locations. If a G-2 point is completely missing on one antler, then take H-1 and H-2 at the same location, the smallest place between G-1 and G-3.
The presence of crown points can make the taking of H-4 tricky. As figure 7-H displays, the measurer must take the circumference at the smallest location between the normal G-4 point and the normal G-5 point. Several crown points may interrupt the spacing and necessitate the trial measurement of several locations in order to find the smallest.
The inside spread should be taken with a folding carpenter’s rule, utilizing the extension to complete the measured line. Care must be exercised to properly position the ruler for this measurement. The line of measurement should be at a right angle to the long axis of the skull. It must also be parallel to the skull cap. Thus, if one beam should be positioned higher than the other, it will be necessary to utilize a straightedge against the higher antler to properly locate the line. The actual measurement will reflect the greatest distance between the inside edges of the two main beams at their center, making sure to keep the measurement oriented as noted above.
Rarely, one or both antlers will curve outward excessively near their tips (figure 7-I). In such rare cases credit should not be given the elk for such abnormal spread. Thus, the inside spread measurement must be taken where the “flaring” antler(s) begins to diverge from the normal curvature or at a location below the point of divergence, whichever is greater.
Note that spread credit (Column 1 of the score chart) cannot exceed the length of the longer main beam. If the spread measurement does exceed the longer main beam, enter the longer main beam length (rather than the inside spread measurement) in Column 1 of the score chart for the spread credit.
The tip to tip spread and greatest spread are supplementary measurements and are not figured into the final score. They are recorded on the score chart as they do indicate the general conformation of the rack, and with the other measurements give a rather complete picture of antler formation for the trophy.
The supplementary data of tip to tip spread should also be taken by use of the folding carpenter’s rule or steel tape. This measurement is simply from the center of the tip of one antler to the center of the tip of the other. If the main beams are essentially the same length as one another, the inside spread measurement could be nearly the same length as the tip to tip if the bull’s antlers gradually (not excessively) widen. It would be a rare occasion that the tip to tip and inside spread would be exactly the same.
Greatest spread is best taken by use of two perpendiculars, such as carpenter’s levels held upright by large c-clamps or perfectly square-cut wooden blocks. The measurement is then taken by using a steel tape or folding carpenter’s rule between the perpendiculars. If perpendiculars are not available, a floor and wall can be used for one perpendicular with the second being improvised from a carpenter’s level or a straight, square-cut board. In no case should the human eye be relied upon for establishment of the second perpendicular line.
A bull elk is one of North America’s most majestic creatures, and a really big bull elk is the best of the best, one of the most regal, most dramatic, and most impressive creatures in the entire world. There is a big difference between a nice, normal, respectable, good bull and a monster that will make the records book. It isn’t hard to tell the difference, but the first decision you need to make is whether or not you care.
Although it’s possible for a huge bull to turn up almost anywhere these big deer are found, there aren’t large numbers of really big bulls anywhere. In a lot of elk country any bull at all is truly a fine trophy, and any six-point bull is a great trophy. As with all trophy hunting, you can’t shoot a big one unless you’re willing to turn down lesser animals. This may not be the best course of action for all elk hunters in all areas, especially not for those who like to eat elk meat. Let’s start with the clear understanding that there aren’t enough big bulls to go around, and it isn’t always sensible to spend a lot of time counting antler points, let alone computing Boone and Crockett scores. However, sometimes there is time, and in some times and places there are lots of elk, enough that you really can size them up and try to find the bull of a lifetime. Will you know him if you see him?
Relatively few elk hunters go afield with a certain records book score in mind, but lots of elk hunters go in search of a “six-point bull.” This isn’t a bad plan, provided you understand that a six-point bull isn’t necessarily a monster, nor even fully mature, and that there are huge 5x5s wandering around that dwarf many 6x6s. That said, six points per side (including the main beam tip) is the normal configuration for most American elk. Some bulls never grow the sixth point, and some grow a seventh and (rarely) even more, but most mature bull elk are 6x6s. It is normal for an elk’s first antlers to be spikes. It is just as normal for a spike to go straight to a 5-point rack as a 2-1/2-year-old, and then to a small six-point rack as a 3-1/2-year-old.
Often the process is slower and, rarely, it can be faster. But a 3-1/2, 4-1/2, or even 5-1/2-year-old bull is a long way from full maturity, regardless of how many points he is carrying. It depends on the country, but a bull elk’s best set of antlers will probably come in his 10th, 11th, or even 12th year. There’s a lot of growing to do between his first six-point rack and his best rack, so there are six-pointers and then there are six-pointers.
However, simply identifying, in an instant, a six-point bull is not difficult. Elk antlers grow with a main beam that goes up and slightly back, usually curving rearward toward the tip of the main beam. Points tend to grow forward and slightly outward from the main beam. In the normal configuration there are two brow tines that project forward, a third point that projects from the side of the antler, and fourth and subsequent points that grow from the top of the main beam. The fourth point is normally the longest and most dominant point. Sometimes called the dagger point or the sword point, this is usually the single most distinctive feature of an elk rack, and you’ll pick it up in an almost instantaneous glance.
If the main beam tip goes straight back from the dagger point you’re almost certainly looking at a five-point antler. If there’s another point rising upward behind this prominent dagger point, perhaps making a horizontal “Y,” then you’re looking at a six-point antler. Again, the dagger point is almost always the longest and thickest point, and unless something is missing (broken off or not grown), it will be the fourth point. Points behind the dagger point are generally shorter. So, not counting the main beam tip, one point behind the dagger means a six-pointer. Two points behind the dagger means the rare seven-pointer, with the sixth tine usually considerably shorter than the fifth tine.
If a “six-point bull” is what you have in mind, this is all you need to know, but don’t take it too literally because I’ve seen hunters pass huge five-pointers in favor of much smaller six-pointers! Now, let’s progress to records book score. Elk are measured by a combination of beam lengths, point lengths, circumferences at four different places on the main beam, and inside spread. The minimum is lower for Roosevelt’s elk than for American elk, also known as Rocky Mountain elk, and lower still for tule elk, but in all cases the minimum is very, very high, and it takes a real whopper to make the grade in any category. Although the basic criteria of beams, points, circumferences, and inside spread are the same, Roosevelt’s and tule elk are measured differently because they often grow additional points near the dagger point, forming a cluster or “crown” of points like a European red deer. American elk, which rarely crown, are divided into typical and non-typical categories. We will focus initially on the most plentiful and widespread American elk, with notes on Roosevelt’s and tule elk at the conclusion.
For American elk it requires a minimum of 375 points for entry into the All-time records book as a typical bull and 360 points to enter in the Awards book. The non-typical minimum is 385 points for both the Awards and All-time records books. As an indicator of how large such a bull really is, most nice, representative, good 6x6 elk will measure somewhere between 260 and 290 Boone and Crockett points. Relatively few people will ever see a true record-class bull, but the yardstick by which you would know them are the same for lesser bulls.
With any antlered game it’s important to understand that all the criteria are important. No rack is perfect, not even a World’s Record. Since there are more points than anything else, point length is very important, but what you really want is a combination of long points, long beams, good mass, and a wide spread. Since no wapiti has all of this in equal proportion, you have to look at the overall rack, longer points make up for short beams, extreme mass makes up for a narrower spread, and so forth. It’s important to look at the entire rack and not become fixated on one feature, whether outstanding or weak. That said, some criteria are more important than others. We’ll look at each.
Long beams are not sufficient to put an elk in the records book. You need all the rest, but most great elk have long main beams. In the all-time records book, main beams of American elk range from a very few heads with a beam length in the mid-40s, all the way to beams well over 60 inches in length. The average beam length of the top 10 typical heads is over 58 inches. Interestingly, however, the average beam length of the bottom ten typical heads is 55-4/8 inches, not much difference. Note that the top 10 typical American elk average 426 points; the bottom 10 average just over 375 points. That’s a 50-inch difference, but the difference in beam length averages just 2-4/8 inches.
What this should tell you is that most great elk have very long beams. There are exceptions, and they must have the rest as well, but long beams matter. It’s very difficult to quantify beam length when you’re looking at an elk through binoculars, but it isn’t difficult to see that a bull has exceptionally long beams. With the head carried normally, antlers erect, look for antlers that are significantly taller than the elk’s shoulder height. With the head thrown back, perhaps to bugle, look for main beams that appear to reach as far back as the haunches. It is difficult to precisely estimate beam length against body size, but this business about “being able to scratch his rear end with his antlers” is valid. An elk with really long beams can almost do this. Another good visual clue on a six-pointer is extreme length behind the last point, and, on any elk, the apparent length behind the dagger point, preferably at least 20 inches.
This is a measurement that many hunters don’t like. It’s a measurement of air, not antler. Looking at typical American elk (the category with by far the most entries) the range is quite considerable. The narrowest head in the book has an inside spread of just 32-2/8 inches, exceptionally narrow for a mature bull. At a total of 384-1/8 B&C points, this bull actually outscores the widest bull, 55-6/8 inches (total score 380-2/8). This suggests that spread isn’t everything! Indeed it isn’t, and this is borne out by the averages of the top 10 and bottom 10 entries. The top 10 typical American elk range from 38-2/8 inches inside spread to 53 inches, with an average of 46-2/8 inches. The bottom 10 range from 38 inches to 49-4/8 inches, with an average of 42-4/8 inches. Again, this is not significant against the 50-inch difference that separates these elk in Boone and Crockett’s scoring system.
In the field, this is not a criteria I would worry about too much, except in the relatively rare case where you’re looking at a very narrow, straight-up-and-down rack. Most “big” elk will come well outside the ears or, from the rear, will have antlers that extend well outside the body profile. This will put you somewhere in the low to mid-40s, and that’s all you need be concerned about. A really wide bull gives you a bonus, and that’s good. A really narrow bull may be a problem, but not if the beams and points are spectacular. Note that the fourth typical American elk in the all-time records book has an inside spread of just 39 inches, and the ninth head in the same listing has an inside spread of just 38-2/8 inches.
As a bull reaches full maturity, he may or may not grow additional points, and he may or may not add significant length to his rack, but his antlers will become more massive. Most really good elk have heavy antlers and carry the mass the length of the main beam. An individual circumference measurement is not a large number, but there are four circumference measurements on each side, so they add up. “H-1” is taken at the smallest place between the first (brow) tine (G-1) and the second tine (G-2). H-2 is taken between the second and third (G-3) tines, H-3 between the third and fourth (G-4, normally the dagger) tines, and H-4 is taken between the dagger point and next point (G-5) or, if a G-5 is lacking (a five-point rack), then the measurement is taken halfway between the G-4 and the end of the main beam.
Mass is very hard to judge, and isn’t something worth spending a lot of time on. Few elk that are “big” in the more visible characteristics have thin antlers. The average H-1 (between first and second point) on the top 10 typical American elk is 10-4/8 inches, which is very massive. The average H-1 of the bottom 10 is 8-6/8 inches. That is a fairly significant difference, especially if you figure this average difference of 1-4/8 inches is carried through all 8 circumference measurements. However, the next-to-last head in the all-time book has an unusually small H-1 of 6-7/8. This is the very rare “big bull” that is not at least reasonably heavy. Throw that one out and the average goes up to nine inches.
You want to look for antlers that are visibly as large or larger in circumference than the ear bases, and, more importantly, maintain the appearance of thickness at least to the fifth point. It’s unusual to have a lot of time to look at a big bull, and mass is not where you should spend most of it.
On even the most massive-beamed bull elk the total circumference measurements will not approach 20% of the total points. Spread is worth perhaps as little as 10%, but never much more than 15%. Beam length matters, a lot. The total of both the beam lengths can easily exceed 100 points, and on a “record-class” bull, will surely exceed 90 points, so it is worth close to 25% of the total score on a big bull. Do the math. That means tine length accounts for at least 40% of the total, sometimes more, but rarely less.
If you have time to really study a bull, look at the main beams and really look at the tines. Obviously you want to count points. Because there are additional points to measure, 7x7s score well and the rare bulls with additional typical points score even better, provided they match. Tines that are not matched on the other antler are deducted, unless they’re non-typical points and the animal is measured as a non-typical. So a big 6x6 will out score an equally big 7x6 every time. Broken points also count against you, so you do want to look for symmetry, but don’t get carried away looking for a 7x7. Elk with more than six points dominate the first page of the records book listings, but after that the most common configuration among record-class elk is the same as the most common configuration among mature bulls: 6x6.
This being the case, it should be obvious that point length is the single most important criteria, regardless of how many points the bull has. There are many 7x7s that won’t make the magical minimum, while a lot of 6x6s have. It is even possible for a bull to “make it” without the sixth point. There are currently no 5x5 bulls in the all-time records book, but there is one 6x5, scoring 378-6/8 points. Remembering that differences in symmetry are deducted, thus the length of the sixth point on the one side was subtracted. This was one big elk.
The good news is that point length is one of the easiest things to judge because there is a yardstick. On a big American elk the distance from the eye to the tip of the nose is about 12-4/8 to 13 inches. Perhaps better, the distance from the base of the burr to the tip of the nose is about 15-4/8 inches. There are variances, but they’re slight, and this is not an exact science, nor will you normally have time to make it so. The most important thing on a big elk is long points, as many and as long as possible.
Start at the bottom and work up. The brow tines are usually strong. You want them to extend at least to the end of the nose, preferably longer and with some curve, which greatly adds to the length. A curved brow that appears to reach the end of the nose should be about 18-inches long. The G-2s and G-3s are often a bit weaker, but they can’t be too weak. They, too, need to approach the distance from burr to tip of nose. Now comes the truth-teller, the dagger point. The dagger point is usually the longest point, and there are a lot of potential inches there. You want it to be considerably longer than the burr-to-nose distance, approaching double the eye-to-nose yardstick. If it’s a clean 6x6, the G-5 point matters a lot. It has to be strong, at least 8 or 10 inches. This is less important if the bull is a 7x7, but you still need some inches in the top of the rack.
The best people in the world at judging elk are the veteran guides at the White Mountain Apache Reservation, because they have seen more big elk taken than anyone else in the world. Typically, they take an average for mass based on “feel,” and they take an average for inside spread based on a “narrow, wide, or normal” judgment. Where they spend the time is working out the beam lengths and the point lengths because that’s where it’s at.
So let’s look through the spotting scope at a really good 6x6. Get your notebook out. He seems to have really long beams, almost scratching his rump. We’ll give him 55 inches on each beam. Spread is fairly wide, not noticeably splayed out, but wide. We’ll give him 45 inches of inside spread. Mass isn’t huge, but is pretty good. We’ll figure he starts at a normally heavy 9 inches and keeps it pretty well, maybe 30 inches of circumference on each antler, 60 total.
Now we’re going to work out the points. The brow tines curve nicely and seem to pass the tip of the nose. Let’s give them 18 inches. The G-2s and G-3s are also good, but not quite so long, and they seem about equal. Let’s give them 16 inches each. The G-4s are quite good, about half again the burr-to-nose distance. Let’s give them 22 inches. The back fork is also pretty good. We’ll call the G-5s at least eight inches each.
Now let’s look again for visible differences from one side to another. No, no points are missing, and while there will certainly be subtle differences, none are obvious. Okay, do the math. We’ve got 110 inches on the beams, 60 inches in circumference, and 45 inches of inside spread. The point length is 80 inches per side, total of 160. If you’re right, you’re looking at a bull that will score 375 points. Hopefully you’ve been conservative rather than generous in your estimation, and hopefully you haven’t missed any significant deductions. If these two things are true, you’re looking at a Boone and Crockett typical bull.
The only non-typical elk category is for the American elk. A non-typical point is not a mismatched point from one side to the other, but a point that grows somewhere other than in the typical pattern, perhaps a drop point or a horizontal point coming off the main beam. As is the case with deer, the possibilities are almost endless, but, if anything, non-typical elk are less common than non-typical deer, and it’s rare to see more than a handful of true non-typical points. Reflecting this, the non-typical minimum is 385 points. This means that only 10 inches of true non-typical points are required above a typical measurement of 375. In theory, a couple of non-typical “kickers” of five or six inches would take the “perfect bull” we described above out of the typical and into the non-typical category. Non-typical bulls are extremely hard to judge, but you can measure the points by the same criteria. The trick is to make sure you’re looking at non-typical points and not deductions.
Roosevelt’s elk and tule elk are generally measured in the same way with one major exception. Both subspecies often grow irregular “crown” points near or above the G-4 or dagger point. These points are measured separately and added into the total score. Abnormal points below the G-4 are deducted, and there is no category for non-typical Roosevelt’s or tule elk.
The other major difference is the racks are more compact. Roosevelt’s elk are giants in the body, with the eye-to-nose and burr-to-nose distances maybe 1/2 inch longer than with American elk. The racks on the best bulls tend to be just as heavy, but main beams are considerably shorter. Beam lengths above 50 inches are rare, with most of the best Roosevelt’s elk having beams in the mid-40s. Reflecting this, the minimum score for Roosevelt’s elk is 290 points.
Tule elk are much smaller in the body, and although the best racks tend even more toward crown points than Roosevelt’s elk, the main beams are shorter yet and not quite as massive. Deduct about 1-4/8 inches from the eye-to-nose and burr-to-nose distance and judge accordingly. Mind you, it’s all a matter of scale. The minimum score for the new tule elk category is 285, reflecting that tule elk are likely to have more points than Roosevelt’s elk, but shorter beams and less mass.
During hunting season there won’t be many occasions when you have the time to get out your notebook and try to figure all this out. Nor should you. Sometimes, when elk are feeding on a distant hillside, you can sit down and work it out. But “the big ones look big,” and if he looks that big, your time may be better spent making a stalk. On the other hand, the more time you spend really judging elk the better (and faster) you will be at it. This is a great exercise for off-season scouting, or while game viewing in a park. It takes practice and no one will reach perfection. The more time you spend looking and judging elk, the better prepared you will be when you see a big bull in the field. As with all antlered game, the secret is to look at the whole rack, not just one feature, and to know what you’re looking at. ■
