CENTRAL AMERICA BASICS
This section has all the practical details you’ll need on the whole of Central America, including information on getting there, advice on getting around if Nicaragua is one stop on a longer trip and guidance on everything from health to volunteering opportunities.
Getting there
While you can travel to Central America overland from Mexico or by sea from Colombia, your most likely point of entry is through one of the region’s international airports. Of these, the most popular gateways are Guatemala City, San José (Costa Rica) and Panama City.
Prices for flights to the region with established carriers can vary hugely. For the best fares on scheduled flights, book well in advance of travel, as airlines only have a fixed number of seats at their lowest prices. Fully check conditions before making a booking, however, as these cheap fares are almost always heavily restricted; the one provision nearly all carriers attach to tickets is the required duration of trip – generally the best prices allow a maximum stay of one to three months, with prices rising for a six-month duration, and again for a year’s validity. It is not always cheapest to book direct with the airline; some travel agents can negotiate discounted fares, in particular for students or those under 26. It may be worth considering a one-way ticket if you are planning a long trip, although you may have difficulties passing through immigration without an onward ticket.
Another option is to look into routes operated by charter airlines to package-holiday destinations. For the most part these are available from the US to Belize, Costa Rica and Panama, although it is also possible to reach Cancún in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula from the UK. These charter flights allow limited flexibility, usually for a fixed period of one or two weeks, but can be picked up last-minute at very reasonable prices.
If planning a substantial amount of overland travel in Central America, consider purchasing an open-jaw ticket (for example, arriving in Guatemala City and returning from Panama City). Prices for open-jaw tickets are usually comparable to a straightforward return. Alternatively, round-the-world (RTW) itineraries can incorporate Central American destinations if you travel via the US and onward to Auckland, Sydney, etc.
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From the UK and Ireland
There are no direct flights from the UK or Ireland
to Central America. Most routes are offered by US carriers – American, United
and Delta – and involve connections in the States. Onward flights to Central America may be operated by
regional airlines such as Copa (
copaair.com) and Avianca (avianca.com; formerly TACA and its subsidiary LACSA). A few European
airlines also offer flights through their hub cities to Guatemala City, San José
or Panama City – these include Iberia (via Madrid; iberia.com) and KLM (via Amsterdam;
klm.com). As clearing US immigration
and customs can be a lengthy process, these European flights can frequently be
faster. Alternatively – and less expensively – a wide network of carriers flies
from Europe direct to Mexico, from where you can travel to Central America.
Journey times from the UK and Ireland vary according to connection times, but it is possible to get door-to-door in a day. Published return fares from London to Central American capitals start at around £600–700 in the winter, rising substantially in the summer months.
From the US and Canada
Several US carriers operate direct flights to all
Central American capitals. The main US hubs, offering good connections with
other North American cities, are Houston (United; united.com), Fort Lauderdale (Spirit
Airlines; spiritair.com), Dallas
(American; aa.com) and Atlanta (Delta;
delta.com), but there are also
direct routes from New York and Los Angeles to Guatemala City, San Salvador, San
José and Panama City. Flights are frequent and can take as little as two hours
(Miami to Belize City, for example). Low-cost carrier Jet Blue (jetblue.com) also flies to San José
(Costa Rica) from Fort Lauderdale and Orlando, and from Liberia (Costa Rica) to
New York. Prices vary – advance return fares start from as little as US$300
(including taxes), though a more realistic estimate would be in the region of
US$400–600.
From Canada you can fly direct with Air Canada
(aircanada.com) from Toronto to
Costa Rica (San José; 7hr). There are also seasonal direct flights between
Toronto and Montréal to Central American cities with Air Transat (airtransat.com), and from Toronto
to Liberia (Costa Rica) with WestJet (westjet.com). Return trips between Canada and Central America start
at about Can$700, although there are many travel companies offering seasonal
packages with flights from Can$500. Alternatively, there are many connections to
all Central American capitals via the US.
TRAVEL VIA THE US: ESTA CLEARANCE
The US government requires those travellers coming to or through the US on the Visa Waiver Program to apply online for clearance via ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorization) – if you arrive at the airport without having done so, the airline won’t allow you to check in.
To apply for clearance visit http://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/ at least three days before travelling;
you’ll need your passport to hand, and the admin fee at the time of publication
is US$14. Clearance remains valid for two years. Companies advertising
assistance with ESTA clearance should be ignored, as no officially recognized
bodies provide this service.
Note also that Visa Waiver Program qualifiers coming to the US overland (via Mexico or Canada) do not need to have ESTA authorization – you just fill in the green I-94W form at the border instead (make sure you hand in the form when you leave).
From Australia, New Zealand and South Africa
There are no direct flights from Australasia or
South Africa to Central America, but it’s easy enough to connect with flights in
the US or Europe. From Australia and New Zealand, the quickest route is through Los
Angeles and then Dallas or Houston (approximately 20hr; from Aus$1700/NZ$2000).
From South Africa (Johannesburg) the options
include BA (ba.com)/American via London
and New York, Iberia via Madrid and Delta via Dakar and Atlanta (from
ZAR12,000). Connections are not great: the journey takes at least 24
hours.
From Mexico
It is fairly straightforward to travel overland by bus from Mexico to Guatemala or Belize. Several companies offer services with varying degrees of comfort (worth taking into consideration, given the length of most trips – Palenque to Flores is eight hours, Tulum to Belize City is nine). Popular routes include: Cancún/Tulum (via Chetumal/Corozal) to Belize City; Palenque (via Frontera Corozal/Bethel) to Flores, Guatemala; San Cristóbal de Las Casas (via Ciudad Cuauhtémoc/La Mesilla) to Huehuetenango; and the Mexican Pacific coast (via Ciudad Hidalgo/Ciudad Tecún Umán) to Quetzaltenango.
Unfortunately, one annoyance experienced by many travellers (particularly crossing into Guatemala) is the demand for unofficial “fees” at immigration – usually it’s not immigration officials that ask for this fee, but a third party. It’s often easier to go with local services than one of the long-distance carriers – travelling with a busload of gringos can prove expensive. It is worth changing pesos at the border with moneychangers, as an opportunity may not arise later. Be sure to do your sums prior to agreeing to a transaction and check what you’re given before handing over your cash.
It’s possible, too, to fly from many of Mexico’s
airports to Central America’s main cities with airlines such as Aeroméxico (aeromexico.com), Avianca and Copa –
one-way fares for Interjet’s Mexico City to Guatemala City flight start at just
US$85 (interjet.com.mx).
From South America
There is currently no overland passage between Central and South America due to lack of infrastructure and a guerrilla presence in the Darién jungle bordering Colombia and Panama. Known as the “Darién Gap”, this break in the Carretera Panamericana (Panamerican Highway) means that intercontinental travellers will need to cross this area either by air or by sea.
Unless part of an airpass or RTW ticket, flights from South to Central America are typically cheaper bought in the country of departure (agents there will have access to discounted fares). However, as always, booking at the last minute can mean settling for the highest prices, so ideally you should plan at least a few weeks in advance. One-way fares from Quito/Bogotá to Panama are in the region of US$500 (considerably less with a student card).
There’s a steady flow of sea traffic between Panama and Colombia via the Caribbean, and private sailboats often offer passage as crew for the three- to five-day journey between Colón and Cartagena . Despite several attempts to establish one (most recently in 2012), there are still no regularly scheduled ferries, but many boats frequently make the run – usually depending on demand.
ROUND-THE-WORLD (RTW) FLIGHTS
Round-the-world flights connect Sydney, Perth,
Auckland and Johannesburg to Mexico City, Guatemala City, San José and Panama
City, usually via Los Angeles or London using American Airlines or code-share
partners. It is also possible to reach Australasia from both Santiago (Chile)
and Buenos Aires (Argentina) as part of the same RTW tickets with BA/Qantas’s
Oneworld (ba.com/qantas.com). British Airways/Qantas and
United/Air New Zealand (airnz.co.nz)
Star Alliance fares from London start at around £1500, and allow multiple stops
in several continents within a certain mileage.
AGENTS AND OPERATORS
Coco Tours Honduras 
504 3335 4599, hondurascoco.com. Small, locally based tour company
leading a variety of Central American tours, including cultural Garífuna
visits, with a portion of profits supporting Garífuna projects.
Dragoman UK 1728 885576, US 1800
805 7680, Australia 1300 352 054, New
Zealand 0800 770107, dragoman.com.
The overland adventure specialists offer a 32-day “Central America
Adventure” and a 28-day trip from Guatemala to Panama City.
Exodus UK 1800 843 4272, exodus.co.uk. Huge range of adventure travel
packages, from 12-day camping trips around Belize to 15-day cycling
tours of Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Panama.
Geckos Adventures Australia 613 8601 4444, geckosadventures.com. Australian-based agency,
with a number of tours led by local guides within Latin America.
Hosteltrail UK 131 208 0007, hosteltrail.com. Backpacker hostels and tour
operators throughout Central America.
Intrepid Travel UK 0800 781 1660, US 1800
970 7299, Australia 1300 018 871, New
Zealand 0800 600 610, intrepidtravel.com. Specializing in small-group,
off-the-beaten-path tours through Central America, from 17 to 58
days.
Journey Latin America UK 020 8622 8469, journeylatinamerica.co.uk. Well-established tour
operator offering tailor-made itineraries as well as sound advice on
travel in the region.
Keka’s Travel Agency 1 800 593 5352, kekastravel.com. Miami-based operators specializing
in Latin American travel, offering low airfares and budget
packages.
North South Travel UK 01245 608 291, northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive
travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to
support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of
sustainable tourism.
Quetzaltrekkers Nicaragua 505 2311 6695,
Guatemala 502 7765 5895, quetzaltrekkers.com. Nonprofit organization
providing trekking tours in Guatemala and Nicaragua, with profits
directly funding children’s educational and recreational
projects.
REI Adventures US 1800 622 2236, rei.com/adventures. Outdoor adventure experts
offering kayaking, jungle and multisport trips to Belize, and Arenal
Volcano, jungle and sea adventures to Costa Rica.
STA Travel UK 0871 230 0040, US 1 800
781 4040, Australia 134 782, New Zealand
0800 474 400, South Africa 0861 781
781, statravel.com. Worldwide specialists in
independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental, rail
passes, and more. Good discounts for students and under-26s.
Trailfinders UK 0845 058 5858, Republic of
Ireland 01 677 7888, Australia 1300 780
212, trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and
most efficient agents for independent travellers.
Tucan Travel UK 020 8896 1600, Australia
0293 266 633, tucantravel.com. An independently owned agency
offering a variety of worldwide tours, including comprehensive budget
expeditions.
Wilderness Travel US 1800 368 2794, wildernesstravel.com. Off-the-beaten-path
adventure tours, safaris and treks to Costa Rica, Guatemala and
Panama.
Yampu Tours UK 0800 011 2424, Australia
1800 224 201, US 1 888 926 7801,
yampu.com.
Another small indie outfit, offering a large number of tours within
Latin America.
Entry requirements
Nationals of the UK, Ireland, Canada, the US, Australia and New Zealand do not need visas to visit any of the seven Central American countries. Visitors are eligible for stays of either thirty days (Belize, Panama) or, in the case of Costa Rica and the CA-4 countries, ninety days.
You should be able to extend this period by leaving the country and re-entering, or you can pay for a thirty- or ninety-day visa extension at immigration offices. You should have a valid passport with at least six months remaining and, officially, an onward ticket (these are seldom checked but may be a sticking point at border crossings or customs, especially entering Costa Rica).
All countries charge entry fees (sometimes referred to as a “tourist card”) to certain nationalities, depending on relations between the countries. Investigate your destination’s entry requirements before travelling, and arrive prepared with cash. For more information about specific countries and border crossings in Central America, see the relevant country’s chapter, and always check with your embassy before travelling.
CENTRAL AMERICA BORDER CONTROL AGREEMENT
Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua are party to the Central America Border Control Agreement (CA-4). Under the terms of this agreement, tourists may travel within any of these four countries for a period of up to ninety days without completing entry and exit formalities at border and immigration checkpoints (though officers will still check your passport), aside from paying entry fees. The ninety-day period begins at the first point of entry to any of the CA-4 countries. Fines are applied if you exceed the ninety-day limit (at least US$115), although a request for an extension can be made for up to ninety additional days by paying a fee (around US$15–20), before the limit expires, in one of the countries themselves (to do this in El Salvador you must be sponsored by a CA-4 national). Note that you can only extend your visa once – you must leave the CA-4 area after the second ninety days expires. You can avoid the extension process by travelling to a country outside the CA-4, and then re-entering (usually after a minimum of 24 hours) – you’ll then get a fresh ninety-day visa.
CENTRAL AMERICAN EMBASSIES ABROAD
Belize UK: Belize High Commission, 3/F, 45 Crawford Place, London, W1H 4LP
(020 7723 3603, belizehighcommission.com); US:
2535 Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington DC, 20008
(202 332 9636, embassyofbelize.org).
Costa Rica Canada:
350 Sparks St, Suite 701, ON, K1R 7S8 (613 562
2855, costaricaembassy.com); UK:
Flat 1, 14 Lancaster Gate, London, W2 3LH (020
7706 8844, costaricanembassy.co.uk,
info@costaricanembassy.co.uk); US:
2114 S St NW, Washington DC, 20008 (202 480
2200, costarica-embassy.org).
El Salvador Canada:
209 Kent St, Ottawa, K2P 1Z8 (613 238
2939); UK:
8 Dorset Square, London, NW1 6PU (020 7224
9800, embajadalondres@rree.gob.sv); US:
1400 16th St NW, Suite 100, Washington DC, 20036
(202 595 7500, elsalvador.org).
Guatemala Canada:
130 Albert St, Suite 1010, Ottawa, ON, K1P 5G4
(613 233 7237,
embcanada@minex.gob.gt); South Africa:
16/F, 2 Long St, Cape Town (021 418
2020, mrast@solo.pipex.co.za); UK:
13 Fawcett St, London, SW10 9HN (020 7351
3042, embgranbretana@minex.gob.gt); US:
2220 R Street NW, Washington DC, 20008 (202
745 4953,
embestadosunidos@minex.gob.gt).
Honduras Canada:
151 Slater St, Suite 805-A, Ottawa, ON, K1P 5H3
(1 613 233 8900, hondurasemb.org); UK:
115 Gloucester Place, London, W1U 6JT (020
7486 4880); US:
3007 Tilden St NW, Suite 4M, Washington DC, 20008
(202 966 7702, hondurasemb.org).
Nicaragua UK:
Vicarage House, Suite 31, 58–60 Kensington Church St, London, W8 4DB
(020 7938 2373,
emb.ofnicaragua@virgin.net); US:
1627 New Hampshire Ave NW, Washington DC, 20009
(202 939 6531).
Panama Canada:
130 Albert St, Suite 300, Ottawa, ON K1P 5G4
(613 236 7177, embassyofpanama.ca);
UK: Panama House, 40 Hertford St, London, W1Y 7TG
(020 7409 2255, panamaconsul.co.uk);
US: 2862 McGill Terrace NW, Washington DC, 20008
(202 483 1407, embassyofpanama.org).
BORDER CROSSINGS
Most travellers in Central America take advantage of the close proximity of the region’s many distinct nations, crossing international borders regularly. While for the most part this is straightforward, “border days” can also be some of the most exhausting of your trip – follow the tips mentioned here to ease the strain.
- Always check specific entry requirements before heading for the border.
- Ensure that your passport is stamped on both entry and exit.
- Try to cross in the morning, when public transport links are more frequent and queues lighter.
- Research current exchange rates online at oanda.com or xe.com and be savvy when dealing
with moneychangers.
- If asked for “processing fees” request a receipt (such as the stamp given by Panama). Without one, these fees are not legal. Be sure to bring a small amount of US dollars for any unexpected fees.
- Do not engage in discussion of your business with strangers. Borders are notorious hangouts for petty criminals and con men. If you are confused about how to proceed, ask a uniformed official.
- At popular crossings avoid group transport, which will slow your progress considerably. Chicken buses operate these routes as frequently as any other (although not at night).
- If given a stamped entry document do not lose it – you will require it later for departure.
< Back to Central America Basics
Getting around
If you’re not in a hurry and are willing to travel on public transport, you can get around most of Central America on US$1–2 per hour (probably slightly more in Belize, Costa Rica and Panama). While public transport systems are sometimes slow – and almost always crowded and sweaty – they can often also be extremely efficient: in most places you will rarely have to wait long for onward transport. On major roads, especially, buses run with high frequency and can offer a great insight into the day-to-day life of the country. Flights are relatively expensive but shuttle long-distance between major cities and can help access remote areas, such as the region’s many wonderful islands.
The following is a general guide to Central American transport. More specific information can be found in the “Getting around” section of each country’s “Basics” section.
NAVIGATING CENTRAL AMERICAN CITIES
The majority of Central American cities are laid out on a grid system, making navigation fairly straightforward: usually numbered calles (streets) run east–west and numbered avenidas (avenues) run north–south, with a parque or plaza as the point zero. For more information on navigating specific cities, see the relevant chapter.
By bus
Travelling by bus in Central America is by far the most convenient, cheap and comprehensive way to get around. The cost of travel depends mainly on the quality of the transport – you can look forward to paying anywhere from approximately US$1/hr for one of the region’s infamous “chicken buses” to US$6/hr for a guaranteed seat on a more comfortable “Pullman”-style coach.
Chicken buses generally serve as second-class, or local, services. They stop on demand, wherever passengers ask to get off or people flag down passing services. Sometimes it can seem like you’re stopping every 30m, but these buses are handy for impromptu itineraries and each country’s extensive network of routes allows you to get off the beaten path with relative ease. In most places chicken buses tend to run on demand rather than to schedules, departing when full, though in Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Panama (where, in fact, the chicken buses, or “diablos rojos” are being phased out, and are rare outside the capital) schedules are more regular – in those countries it is wise to check at bus terminals before travelling for current timetable information. Tickets are usually bought on board, once the journey is under way, either from the conductor or from his assistant. It is always worth checking the price before boarding to avoid rip-offs, which are not unknown. Luggage usually goes on the roof; always keep valuables on your person and an eye on your stuff as best you can, as theft on buses is unfortunately all too common – interior overhead luggage racks are particularly risky.
Pullman buses generally cover long-distance routes and operate to a schedule, making much quicker progress and so remaining economical when you wish to cover ground more rapidly. Seats should be reserved at the appropriate ticket office in advance. Several bus companies run services from one country to another as well as within individual countries.
In addition to the sites listed here, horariodebuses.com provides a
useful rundown of online bus schedules in Central
America.
REGIONAL BUS CONTACTS
Hedman Alas hedmanalas.com. Connecting major cities in Honduras
and Guatemala.
King Quality king-qualityca.com. Buses from Tapachula, Mexico,
depart for all Central American capitals down to San José, Costa
Rica.
Pullmantur pullmantur.com. Luxury buses from San Salvador (El
Salvador) to Tegucigalpa (Honduras) and Guatemala City.
Tica Bus ticabus.com.
Tica Bus covers the most ground, spanning the region from Panama City
through to Chiapas, Mexico, and stopping at most major cities.
Transnica transnica.com.
Routes from Managua (Nicaragua) to San José (Costa Rica) and Tegucigalpa
(Honduras).
Transportes Galgos transgalgosinter.com.gt. For travel between
Tapachula in Mexico, El Salvador and Quetzaltenango and Guatemala City
in Guatemala.
CHICKEN BUSES
Central America’s “chicken buses” are legendary. These are old school buses from North America, with a few important modifications to get them ready for the rigours of travel: most likely some Jesus stickers, elongated seats for extra bums and a speaker system for the reggaetón soundtrack. Once you find the bus you need, get on and wait for it to fill up around you; luggage (livestock, bicycles, chickens, the kitchen sink, your backpack) goes wherever it will fit. Just when you think the bus couldn’t possibly get any fuller, twenty snack vendors will jump aboard, screaming at you to buy full-fat goodies. Journeys are never dull. But besides entertainment, all the madness does provide one of the best opportunities to chat to local people. Even if your Spanish is shaky, a smile and a simple “Buenas” goes a long way. Once the ice is broken, your fellow passengers will undoubtedly help you to reach your destination with ease.
By plane
Although Central America has a good international flight
network, connecting the region’s key points of interest with its
capital cities, unless you are severely pushed for time few flights are worth
the money, since distances are usually short and accessible by bus, and prices
aren’t particularly cheap (around US$200/US$400 student/standard one-way for
Guatemala City–San José). Regional carriers Avianca/TACA (avianca.com) and Copa (copaair.com) both offer youth fares;
to be eligible you will need to have an ISIC card. If you do plan to do a bit of flying, consider buying an
airpass, which will allow short hops within
Central America, as well as routes to Mexico, the US and some South American
destinations. Passes can be bought in conjunction with your international ticket
in your country of origin. However, these usually force you to specify your
route in advance and rarely allow for trips to your preferred destinations (most
travellers are not necessarily interested in visiting the region’s chaotic
capital cities).
Of greater interest to budget travellers are the domestic flights that connect the region’s more populous areas to isolated tourist destinations – such as Nicaragua’s Corn Islands, Panama’s Bocas del Toro and Honduras’s Bay Islands, all of which are more than a day’s travel by bus from their respective capital cities. Internal flights can be reasonably priced, especially if bought in advance, although in general you will have to purchase them locally.
By boat
You’re likely to travel by boat at some point if you spend any time in Central America – in some places watercraft are the only way to get around, in others they can provide a welcome break from the monotony of bumpy bus rides. Vessels range from the canoe-like lanchas with outboard motor to chugging ferries and speedy catamarans. Watery journeys of note include: Punta Gorda (Belize) to Lívingston (Guatemala) and onward to the Río Dulce area; across Lago de Nicaragua to Isla de Ometepe; down the Río San Juan to the Caribbean. There are also some budget-friendly options through the Panama Canal .
By car
Considering the prevalence of public transport and the relative expense of car rental, renting a vehicle is unlikely to have much appeal. If, however, you want to reach isolated spots, and can find a trusted group to share the costs and/or risks, renting a car (or 4WD) does give you some flexibility. Prices vary throughout the region (US$25–40/day, depending on your location, for the cheapest vehicles, with insurance extra). Always familiarize yourself with the conditions of rental before signing a contract and be aware that in the event of an accident, insurance excess levels are usually huge, sometimes up to US$1000 – meaning that you’ll have to pay for fairly common damages (such as dented bumpers and burst tyres), costing several hundred dollars (the excess can sometimes be reduced by paying a higher daily insurance premium). With no insurance you’ll be liable for the cost of a new car in the event of accident or theft. If you do decide to rent a vehicle you will need a full driving licence, credit card and passport. Some agencies do not rent to under-25s, although others may have an age limit of 21. Always park securely, preferably in a car park with attendant, especially in cities. There are no breakdown services available, but petrol stations are plentiful; the price of fuel is slightly higher than in the US but considerably cheaper than in Europe.
Taxis
Travelling by taxi in Central America is something of a gamble, but a necessary one: drivers are either some of the friendliest, most helpful folk you’ll encounter or some of the biggest swindlers, but at night, especially in large cities, they provide the only safe mode of transport. Always settle a price before getting in (even if there is a meter, try to get an estimate), clarifying that the price is for the journey, regardless of the number of passengers or amount of luggage; throughout the region most short journeys will cost a minimum US$2–5. In terms of safety, always use registered taxis. Costa Rica and Nicaragua in particular have seen a rise in taxi-jackings; as many taxis are colectivos, picking up random passengers along the route, it has become all too frequent for drivers to pick up armed passengers who will forcibly ask you to hand over your cash (if you are lucky), or drive you around to drain your bank accounts with ATM withdrawals. Ask at tourist information offices and local hotels for recommended drivers, and be alert. It also pays to keep an eye on the map as your journey progresses – a possible deterrent to drivers quite literally taking you for a ride. Note that the colectivo taxi is unknown in Guatemala, where, as in Honduras and El Salvador, the three-wheeled tuk-tuk, or moto-taxi, is becoming more common.
By bike
Though many locals travel by bicycle, bike rental is not widely available in Central America. However, some countries, like Belize, are seeing increased bicycle tourism, and a number of travellers are also touring the region with their own bikes. Notwithstanding the dangers of Central America’s anarchic road customs, cycling in the region is facilitated by the mostly flat terrain, relatively short distances between settlements and ease of transporting bicycles aboard buses.
Accommodation
Budget accommodation in Central America is plentiful, and often of excellent quality. The best places to stay are truly memorable for their warm atmosphere, great facilities and stunning location – they are also invariably the best places to get up-to-date travel information. Others, however, can promise cockroaches, poor sanitation and noisy neighbours. It’s always worth shopping around, and inspecting rooms before paying.
Do not be afraid to walk away and look at alternatives – this may even precipitate a drop in prices. Booking ahead is generally not necessary, except during holiday periods in busy tourist centres – plan on arriving early or calling well in advance.
JUNGLE LODGES
Throughout Central America you will find an array of rural jungle lodges in some truly magical locations. While many lodges charge fairly exorbitant prices, not all are beyond a budget traveller’s means. If you have the opportunity, staying at a lodge is usually well worth the splurge and/or detour. However, as lodges are usually isolated, you will be captive to spending all your cash in one place. Lodge owners are of course wise to this and lay on all sorts of tempting treats to help relieve you of your cash.
Hotels and guesthouses
The mainstays of travellers’ accommodation in Central America are hotels and guesthouses (and their regional equivalents: posadas, pensiones, cabinas, cabañas and hospedajes). Cabinas and cabañas, where accommodation is in individual structures and detached from other guests, are usually found at the beach or in the jungle.
The room rates given throughout this guide are for the cheapest double room in high season. A basic double room (around US$20) will have a bed, a light and probably a fan (ventilador). Most places offer the choice of private or shared bathroom; a private bath (baño privado) will cost a few dollars more than a shared one (baño compartido). Hot water is a rarity unless you’re splurging on a swankier room; keep an eye out for gas-fired hot water systems – the standard (and decidedly dodgy) electrical showerheads tend to produce tepid water at best and can also deliver electric shocks. Some hotels will provide you with towels and soap and most with toilet paper. By paying a few extra dollars you can also find rooms that come with cable TV, fridge, a/c, mosquito nets and/or balcony. Double rooms are often equivalent in price to two dorm beds (good news for couples and something for friends to consider). Private single rooms, on the other hand, are often only marginally discounted (if at all) from the standard price for a double. Internet, especially wi-fi, is becoming increasingly available throughout the region, and is often provided free to hotel guests.
Hostels
Hostels, while not particularly widespread, are increasingly common in Central America, often run by foreigners with a keen eye for backpackers’ needs. These establishments offer some of the most sociable and comfortable lodgings in the region. A dorm bed should cost around US$7–12, but in capital cities (especially San José and Panama City) expect to pay around US$15. Most hostels have a few private rooms as well as dorms.
The best hostels may provide facilities such as a kitchen, internet and/or wi-fi access, lockers, bar and restaurant areas, TV and movies, as well as tours and activities. The lockers are a definite plus – theft does occur, so do not leave valuables lying around; you might consider travelling with your own padlock. Some hostels will even offer free board and lodging if you want to stay put and work for a period.
Hostelling International cards are of little or no use in Central America.
Camping
Organized campsites are a rarity in Central America. However, some national parks do allow camping and have limited facilities such as drinking water, toilets and campfire provisions. Expect to pay around US$3–5 per person to pitch a tent (though Costa Rica can be pricier). Camping doesn’t hold much appeal for locals, so don’t expect to find gear on sale or for rent – you will have to carry what you need. It is also possible to pay to hang a hammock (your own or hired) in some areas. This may seem more appealing than an airless room, but the mosquitoes can be fierce – make sure you have a net.
Health
There’s always a risk of illness in a country with a different climate, food and bacteria – still more so in a poor country with lower standards of sanitation than you might be accustomed to. Most visitors, however, get through Central America without experiencing anything more serious than an upset stomach as long as they observe basic precautions about hygiene, untreated water and insect bites.
Above all, it’s important to get the best advice you can before you depart: visit your doctor or a travel clinic. You should also invest in health insurance.
General precautions
There’s no need to go overboard, but as you are packing consider putting together a travel medical kit. Components to include might be: painkillers and anti-inflammatory drugs, antiseptic cream, plasters (Band Aids) and gauze bandages, surgical tape, anti-diarrhoea medicine (Imodium or Lomotil) and rehydration salts, stomach remedies (Pepto Bismol or similar), insect repellent, sun block, anti-fungal cream, and sterile scissors and tweezers.
Once in Central America, basic hygiene will go a long way towards keeping you healthy. Bathe frequently, wash your hands before eating and avoid sharing water bottles or utensils. Make sure to eat a balanced diet – eating peeled fresh fruit helps keep up your vitamin and mineral intake; malnutrition can lower your resistance to germs and bacteria. Hepatitis B, HIV and AIDS – all transmitted through blood or sexual contact – are common in Central America. You should take all the usual, well-publicized precautions to avoid them. Two other causes of problems in the region are altitude and the sun. The answer in both cases is to take it easy; allow yourself time to acclimatize and build up exposure to the sun gradually. Avoid dehydration by drinking enough – water or fruit juice rather than beer or coffee, though you should take care with water. Overheating can cause heatstroke, which is potentially fatal. Lowering body temperature (by taking a tepid shower, for example) is the first step in treatment.
Inoculations
If possible, all inoculations should be sorted out at least ten weeks before departure at your local health clinic. The only obligatory jab required to enter Central America is a yellow fever vaccination; however, this is only needed if you’re arriving from a “high-risk” area – northern South America and much of central Africa – in which case you need to carry your vaccination certificate. A yellow fever shot is also highly recommended if travelling in Panama east of the canal. Long-term travellers should consider the combined hepatitis A and B and the rabies vaccines, and all travellers should check that they are up to date with the usual polio, diphtheria, tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis A jabs.
Food and water
People differ in their sensitivity to food. If you are worried or prone to digestive upsets then there are a few simple things to keep in mind: steer clear of raw shellfish and seafood when inland; only eat raw fruit and vegetables if they can be peeled; and avoid salads unless rinsed in purified water.
Contaminated water is a major cause of sickness in Central America, and even if it looks clean, drinking water should be regarded with caution (even when cleaning teeth and showering). That said, however, it’s also essential to increase fluid intake to prevent dehydration. Bottled and bagged water is widely available, but always check that the seal is intact, since refilling empties with tap water for resale is not unknown. Many restaurants use purified water (agua purificada), but always ask.
There are various methods of treating water while you are travelling: boiling for a minimum of five minutes is the most effective method of sterilization, but it is not always practical, and will not remove unpleasant tastes. Water filters remove visible impurities and larger pathogenic organisms (most bacteria and parasites). To be really sure your filtered water is also purified, however, chemical sterilization – using either chlorine or iodine tablets, or a tincture of iodine liquid – is advisable; iodine is more effective in destroying amoebic cysts. Both chlorine and iodine unfortunately leave a nasty aftertaste (which can be masked with lime juice). Pregnant women or people with thyroid problems should consult their doctor before using iodine tablets or purifiers. Inexpensive iodine-removal filters are recommended if treated water is being used continuously for more than a month. Any good outdoor equipment shop will stock a range of water treatment products.
Intestinal troubles
Diarrhoea is the stomach ailment you’re most likely to encounter. Its main cause is simply the change in your diet: the food in Central America contains a whole new set of bacteria, as well as perhaps rather more of them than you’re used to. Don’t try anything too exotic in the first few days, but do try to find some local natural yoghurt, which is a good way to introduce friendly bacteria to your system. Powdered milk, however, can be troublesome, due to being an unfamiliar form of lactose.
If you’re afflicted with a bout of diarrhoea, the best cure is the simplest one: take it easy for a day or two and make sure you rehydrate. It’s a good idea to carry sachets of rehydration salts, although you can make up your own solution by dissolving five teaspoons of sugar or honey and half a teaspoon of salt in a litre of water. Reintroduce only bland foods at first (rice, dry toast, etc) – papaya and coconut are also good. Diarrhoea remedies like Imodium and Lomotil should be saved for emergencies, like if you need to travel immediately. Only if the symptoms last more than four or five days do you need to worry. If you can’t get to a doctor for an exact diagnosis, a last resort would be a course of Ciproxin (ciprofloxacin) – you may want to consider asking your doctor for a prescription and carrying some in your medical kit.
Cholera, an acute bacterial infection, is recognizable by watery diarrhoea and vomiting, though many victims may have only mild or even no symptoms. However, risk of infection is low: Central America was recently declared a cholera-free zone by the Pan American Health Organization.
If you’re spending any time in rural areas you also run the risk of picking up various parasitic infections: protozoa – amoeba and giardia – and intestinal worms. These sound hideous, but they’re easily treated once detected. If you suspect you have an infestation, take a stool sample to a good pathology lab and go to a doctor or pharmacist with the test results. More serious is amoebic dysentery, which is endemic in many parts of the region. The symptoms are more or less the same as a bad case of diarrhoea, but include bleeding. On the whole, a course of Flagyl (metronidazole or tinidozole) will cure it; if you plan to visit the isolated rural reaches of Central America then it’s worth carrying these, just in case. If possible, get some, and some advice on their usage, from a doctor before you go. To avoid contracting such parasites think carefully before swimming in rivers and lakes during or just after the rainy season, when waste washes down hillsides into the water.
Malaria and dengue fever
Malaria, caused by the transmission of a parasite in the saliva of an infected anopheles mosquito (active at night), is endemic in many parts of Central America, especially in the rural Caribbean lowlands. There are several different anti-malarial prophylactics available, all of which must be started in advance of travel, so make sure you leave plenty of time to visit your doctor. The recommended prophylactic for all of Central America, except for the area east of the Panama Canal, is Chloroquine; east of the canal, including the San Blas Islands, it’s Malarone, causing minimal side effects. Consult your doctor about which drug will be best for you. It’s extremely important to finish your course of anti-malarials, as there is a time lag between bite and infection. If you do become ill after returning home, let your doctor know that you’ve been in a malarial risk area – symptoms usually occur ten days to four weeks after infection, though they can appear as early as eight days or as long as a year after infection.
In addition to malaria, mosquitoes can transmit dengue fever, a viral infection that is prevalent – and on the increase – throughout Central America (usually occurring in epidemic outbreaks). Thankfully, the more deadly strain of hemorrhagic dengue is less prevalent in Central America. Unlike malaria, the mosquitoes that pass dengue fever are active during the day, and there’s no preventative vaccine or specific treatment, so you need to pay attention to avoiding bites.
Other bites and stings
Taking steps to avoid getting bitten by insects, particularly mosquitoes, is essential. In general, you should sleep in screened rooms or under nets, burn mosquito coils containing permethrin (available everywhere), cover up arms and legs (though note that mosquitoes are attracted to dark-coloured clothing), especially around dawn and dusk when mosquitoes are most active, and use insect repellent containing more than 35 percent DEET.
Sandflies, often present on beaches, are tiny and very difficult to see, and hence avoid – you will become aware of their presence only when they bite, and by then it can be too late. The bites, usually found around the ankles, itch like hell and last for days. Don’t give in to the temptation to scratch, as this causes the bites to get worse and last longer. Sandflies can spread cutaneous leishmaniasis, an extremely unpleasant disease characterized by skin lesions that can take months and even years to heal if left untreated.
Scorpions are common: mostly nocturnal, they hide during the heat of the day under rocks and in crevices. Their sting is painful (occasionally fatal) and can become infected, so you should seek medical treatment. You’re less likely to be bitten by a spider, but the advice is the same as for scorpions and venomous insects – seek medical treatment if the pain persists or increases.
You’re unlikely to see snakes, but wearing boots and long trousers will go a long way towards preventing a bite in the event that you do – walk heavily and they will usually slither away. Most snakes are harmless – exceptions are the fer-de-lance (which lives in both wet and dry environments, in both forest and open country, but rarely emerges during the day) and the bushmaster (found in places with heavy rainfall, or near streams and rivers), both of which can be aggressive, and whose venom can be fatal. If you do get bitten, remember what the snake looked like (kill it if it’s safe to do so), wrap a lightly restrictive bandage above and below the bite area, but don’t apply enough pressure to restrict blood flow and never use a tourniquet. Disinfect the bite area and apply hard pressure with a gauze pad, taped in place; then immobilize the bitten limb as far as possible. Seek medical help immediately.
Swimming and snorkelling might bring you into contact with potentially dangerous sea creatures. It’s extremely unlikely you’ll be a victim of shark attack, but jellyfish are common and all corals will sting. Some jellyfish, like the Portuguese man-o’-war, with its distinctive purple, bag-like sail, have very long tentacles with stinging cells, and an encounter will result in raw, red welts. Equally painful is a brush against fire coral: in each case clean the wound with vinegar or iodine and seek medical help if the pain persists or infection develops.
Rabies does exist in Central America. You’ll see stray dogs everywhere; the best advice is to give them a wide berth. Bats can also carry the rabies virus; keep an eye out for them when entering caves. If you are bitten or scratched, wash the wound immediately with soap and running water for five minutes and apply alcohol or iodine. Seek treatment immediately – rabies is fatal once symptoms appear. If you’re going to be working with animals or planning a long stay, especially in rural areas far from medical help, you may well want to consider a pre-exposure vaccination, despite the hefty cost. Although this won’t give you complete immunity, it will give you a window of 24–48 hours to seek treatment and reduce the amount of post-exposure vaccine you’ll need if bitten.
Getting medical help
For minor medical problems, head for the local pharmacy (farmacia) – look for a green cross. Pharmacists are knowledgeable and helpful, and many speak some English. They can also sell drugs over the counter (if necessary) that are only available by prescription at home. Most large cities have doctors and dentists, many trained in the US, who are experienced in treating visitors and speak good English. Your embassy will have a list of recommended doctors and hospitals, and we’ve included some in this guide, in the “Directory” sections of the main town accounts. Medical insurance is essential. If you suspect something is amiss with your insides, it might be worth heading straight for a pathology lab (laboratorio médico), found in all main towns, before seeing a doctor, as the doctor will probably send you there anyway. Many rural communities have a health centre (centro de salud or puesto de salud), where healthcare is free, although there may be only a nurse or health-worker available and you can’t rely on finding an English-speaker. Should you need an injection or transfusion, make sure that the equipment is sterile and ensure any blood you receive is screened.
Medical resources for travellers
Travellers should check the latest health advice before travelling to Central America, and if suffering any symptoms after returning home.
UK AND IRELAND
Fit for Travel fitfortravel.nhs.uk.
Hospital for Tropical Diseases thehtd.org.
MASTA (Medical Advisory Service for Travellers
Abroad) masta-travel-health.com.
Tropical Medical Bureau tmb.ie.
US AND CANADA
Canadian Society for International Health csih.org.
CDC wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel.
International Society of Travel Medicine istm.org.
Travel Health Online tripprep.com.
AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND SOUTH AFRICA
Travel Doctor traveldoctor.com.au.
Culture and etiquette
Forget those stereotypes of a scantily clad world of steamy salsa: the reality in Central America is much more conservative. Throughout the region the Church (both Catholic and Evangelical Protestant) retains a powerful influence on everyday life.
Traditional family values are prevalent throughout Central America: children are considered to be a blessing – a sign of virility and in many cases an economic asset – and consequently families are often large. Homosexual relationships are publicly frowned upon if not actively condemned; gay and lesbian travellers should be discreet.
While undeniably friendly and fun-loving (especially in the cities), local people may seem shy and unsure about the gringos squeezed into their chicken bus. You will seldom experience hostility, but it pays to greet fellow passengers with a simple “Buenas” and a smile to break the ice. Politeness is valued highly, so even if your Spanish is poor, take the trouble to learn key pleasantries and they’ll serve you well.
Information about social customs specific to each country is given in the relevant chapter.
Dress
Most locals dress modestly but smartly and visitors not wishing to draw unwelcome attention should do the same. You will make a better impression if you do – especially worthwhile when you are coming into contact with officials. Flashy exhibitions of wealth are not recommended (jewellery should be left at home). Shorts (for men and women) are not generally worn away from beaches, but low-cut tops for women are becoming more usual, especially among the young. In the cities, men wearing T-shirts or untucked shirts will be considered a bit scruffy in formal settings, and even in clubs and posher bars. If visiting places of worship, especially, dress modestly – skimpy shorts and flesh-revealing tops are not appropriate. Women will probably also want something to cover their heads.
< Back to Culture and etiquette
Money matters
Travellers to Central America, especially Westerners, are likely to experience the uncomfortable assumption by locals that you are in fact a multimillionaire (even if you are poorly dressed). Although you may be on a strict budget, the very fact that you have been able to travel abroad, coupled with your potential earning power back home, means you have an economic freedom unobtainable to many you will encounter. As a rule, however, you will ultimately be judged on your conduct and not your wealth: it isn’t helpful, therefore, to be too liberal or too mean with your cash. Instead, show appreciation for good service by tipping (take tips into account when working out your budget), and paying what will satisfy both parties when haggling. Haggling is accepted in markets (both tourist and local) and when fixing taxi fares. Prices for tours and hotel rooms are usually fixed, though you can usually get lower accommodation rates for stays of one week or longer. Prices in shops are generally fixed, although it’s usually worth asking if there are discounts if you buy more than one item.
< Back to Culture and etiquette
Women travellers
Machismo is an ingrained part of Central American culture – female travellers will frequently experience whistling, tssking and even blatant catcalls, though probably not anything more sinister than guys showing off to their friends. Ignoring such attention is the easiest way to deal with these situations, as retorts or put-downs are often seen as encouragement. No matter how modestly you behave, though, you will probably not counteract the view that foreign women are not only desirable, but also easily attainable. Conversely, women travelling as part of a straight couple should be prepared to be invisible in many social interactions. Even if the woman is the only one to speak Spanish, for example, locals (especially men) will often automatically address their reply to the man, for fear of causing offence.
Despite this, most female travellers report positive experiences in the region. There are, however, still precautions to be taken. At night, try to move in groups, and remember it’s always possible simply to ask for help if you feel uncomfortable.
Work and study
High unemployment and innumerable bureaucratic hurdles make the possibility of finding paid work in Central America very unlikely, although there are limited opportunities to teach English, especially in wealthier countries like Costa Rica. It’s far easier to work as a volunteer – many NGOs operate in the region, relying mainly on volunteer staff. Opportunities for studying Spanish are plentiful and often fairly cheap, with a number of congenial Central American locations drawing students from all over the world.
Teaching English
There are two options for teaching English in
Central America: find work before you go, or just wing it and see what you come
up with after arriving. The latter is slightly less risky if you already have a
degree and/or teaching experience. You can get a CELTA (Certificate in English Language Teaching to Adults), a
TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign
Language) or a TESOL (Teaching English to Speakers of
Other Languages) qualification before you leave home or even while you’re
abroad. Courses are not cheap (about £1350/US$2150/Aus$1550 for one month’s
full-time tuition) and you are unlikely to make this investment back very
quickly on Central American wages. Once you have the necessary qualifications,
check the British Council’s website (britishcouncil.org) and the
TEFL website (tefl.com) for a list of English-teaching
vacancies.
Places like Guatemala City and San José in Costa Rica are your best bet for teaching in Central America, although colonial, tourist-oriented towns like Antigua in Guatemala and Granada in Nicaragua are also likely spots.
Volunteering
There are voluntary positions available in Central America for everything from conservation work in Costa Rica to human-rights work in Guatemala. If you have a useful skill or specialization, you might have your room and board paid for and perhaps even earn a little pocket money, although more often than not you’ll have to fund yourself. If you don’t have any particular skills you’ll almost definitely have to pay for the privilege of volunteering, and in many cases – particularly in conservation work – this doesn’t come cheap. While many positions are organized prior to arrival, it’s also possible to arrange something on the ground through word of mouth. Noticeboards in the more popular backpacker hostels are always good sources of information.
Studying Spanish
Some people travel to Central America solely to learn Spanish and there are many cities and towns with highly respected schools. Antigua and Quetzaltenango in Guatemala, San José in Costa Rica and, to a lesser extent, Granada and San Juan del Sur in Nicaragua are all noted centres for language instruction. Prices vary, but you can expect to pay around US$200/week; this includes room and board with a local family, a standard feature of many Spanish courses and great for full cultural immersion. Some schools will also include activities, allowing you to take your learning out of the classroom and providing an insight into the local area. Courses usually run from Monday to Friday, but should include seven nights’ homestay to include in the weekend. Cheaper courses are available – lessons without lodging or activities – but your learning curve is unlikely to be as steep.
Useful contacts
Though it is possible to arrange Spanish lessons last minute, you’ll need to book several weeks or months ahead if planning to volunteer or teach English.
UK AND IRELAND
British Council 020 7930 8466. The Council’s Central
Management of Direct Teaching (020 7389 4931) recruits
TEFL teachers for posts worldwide (check britishcouncil.org for
current vacancies).
I to I Volunteering 1800 985 4852, i-to-i.com/volunteer. Runs a range of volunteer
projects in Costa Rica, from sea turtle preservation and teaching
English to working with children and building homes for underprivileged
families.
Volunteer Service Overseas 020 8780 7500, vso.org.uk. UK-based charity organization,
offering volunteer opportunities across the globe.
US AND CANADA
AFS Intercultural Programs US 1 800 AFS-INFO, Canada
1 800 361 7248 or 514 288 3282; US
afs.org, Canada afscanada.org.
Cultural immersion programmes for high-school students and graduates in
Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras and Panama.
Aide Abroad 1 888 6 ABROAD or 512 904 1137, aideabroad.org. Voluntary placements in Central
America, lasting two weeks to one year. Intermediate Spanish
required.
American Institute for Foreign Study 1 866 906 2437, aifs.com. Language study and cultural immersion
in Costa Rica.
AmeriSpan 1 800 879 6640, amerispan.com.
Language programmes, volunteer/internship placements (English teaching,
healthcare, environment, social work, etc) and academic study-abroad
courses throughout Central America.
Amigos de las Américas 1 800 231 7796 or 713 782 5290, amigoslink.org. Veteran nonprofit organization
placing high-school and college-age students in child health promotion
and other community projects in Central America.
Peace Corps 1 800 424 8580, peacecorps.gov. US institution that recruits
volunteers of all ages (minimum 18) and from all walks of professional
life for two-year postings throughout Central America. All applicants
must be US citizens.
World Learning 1 800 336 1616, worldlearning.org. Accredited college semesters
abroad; the large Latin American studies programme includes an
ecology/conservation course in Belize and a politics-themed course in
Nicaragua.
AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND SOUTH AFRICA
AFS Australia 1300 131 736 or
02 9215 0077, afs.org.au; NZ 0800 600 300 or 04
494 6020, afs.org.nz; South Africa 11 447 2673, afs.org.za.
Cultural immersion programmes for high-school students and
graduates.
Australian Volunteers International 03 9279 1788, australianvolunteers.com. Postings of up to two
years in Costa Rica, Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua, as well as
shorter-term, team-based assignments for younger volunteers.
WORLDWIDE
Cactus Language cactuslanguage.com. Language-holiday specialist with
a wide range of courses in Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua
and Panama. Prices are often lower than if applying directly to the
schools.
Council on International Educational Exchange
(CIEE) UK 020 8939 9057, US 1 800
40 STUDY or 1 207 533 7600; ciee.org. Leading
NGO offering study programmes and volunteer projects around the
world.
Earthwatch Institute earthwatch.org. International nonprofit organization
dedicated to environmental sustainability. Voluntary positions assisting
archeologists, biologists and even ethnomusicologists in Costa Rica,
Nicaragua and Belize.
Gapyear.com gapyear.com.
Comprehensive resource with search engine providing links to volunteer
and language teaching/learning options worldwide.
Global Volunteer Network globalvolunteernetwork.org. Voluntary placements
on community projects worldwide.
Global Vision International Australia 1300 795 013, gviaustralia.com.au; US 1888 653 6028,
gviusa.com; UK
017 2725 0250, gvi.co.uk. Worldwide placements, many in Central
America, including marine conservation and teaching work.
Idealist idealist.org. A
comprehensive portal of global volunteering positions, connecting
applicants with jobs and volunteer placements within the nonprofit
sector.
Peace Brigades International peacebrigades.org. NGO dedicated to protecting human
rights, with placements accompanying human-rights workers in Guatemala.
Costs (including a small monthly stipend) are covered, although
fundraising is encouraged. Applicants need to be 25 or older and fluent
in Spanish.
Projects Abroad US 1 888 839 3535, projects-abroad.org; Australia 1300 132
831, projects-abroad.com.au; Canada 1 877 921
9666, projects-abroad.ca; South Africa 21686
0916, projects-abroad.org.za; UK 1903 708300,
projects-abroad.co.uk. The leading global
organizer of overseas volunteer work, ranging from teaching and
conservation, to healthcare and sports.
Raleigh International 020 7371 8585, raleighinternational.org. Long-established
youth-development charity working on community and environmental
projects worldwide. Opportunities for both young volunteers (17–25) and
older skilled staff (over 25). Central American projects in Costa Rica
and Nicaragua.
Crime and personal safety
While political violence has decreased over recent years, crime rates in Central America continue to rise, and tourists make handy targets. Though the majority of crime is opportunistic theft – bag-snatching or pickpocketing – some criminals do operate in gangs and are prepared to use extreme violence. It is commonly accepted that Guatemala tops the list for crimes committed against tourists, but it is possible to be the victim of crime anywhere in the region, especially if you let your guard down.
General precautions
As you’re packing, keep the sentimental value of what you take with you to a minimum. Do not wear jewellery, and carry only a small amount of cash in your wallet. Larger volumes of cash and credit cards should be kept close to your body – in a money belt, hidden pocket or even in your shoes. Scan any important documents (passport, insurance, etc) and email them to yourself, so you can access them even if you lose everything. It’s worth carrying a paper copy too, so that you can leave the originals in a hotel safe. There is always a dilemma about whether to carry electronic devices (such as a camera, tablet or MP3 player) on your person or leave them in your hotel. If you choose to leave them, make sure they’re not accessible – you could always pack a small padlock and short length of chain (or cable lock), so that you can create a DIY safe in a wardrobe or under a bed.
It’s very important in Central America to keep an eye on your belongings at all times. Never put anything down or let your possessions out of your sight unless you’re confident they are in a safe place. The highest-risk areas for opportunistic theft are large urban centres, bus stations, at ATMs and at border crossings. Buses are also a focus for petty thievery. When travelling by bus you’ll often be separated from your main bag – it will usually end up on the roof. This is generally safe enough (and you’ll probably have little option in any case). Theft of the bag itself is unlikely, but opportunist thieves may dip into zips and outer pockets, so don’t leave anything you’d miss accessible. Some travellers choose to put their pack into a sack to disguise it, prevent pilfering and also keep it clean and dry – not a bad idea. If you carry a day-pack, fill it wisely and keep it on your person (preferably strapped to you). Do not use overhead racks on buses. Needless to say, there is a greater risk of crime after dark, so try to arrive in new towns in daylight so that you’re not wandering unlit streets with all your gear. Bear in mind, too, that the threat of petty crime does not exclusively come from the local population – unscrupulous fellow travellers have been known to help themselves to anything of value.
Violent crime does occur in Central America. Muggings at knifepoint, armed robbery and rape are all dangers to be aware of. If threatened with a weapon, do not resist. You can reduce your chances of falling victim to these crimes by staying in populated areas or around other travellers. However, it should be noted that tourist shuttles are actually more likely to be a target for hijackers, especially at night.
Armed hold-ups of cars are rare but do happen (typically small groups of masked men with guns will try to block the road). You’re especially vulnerable if you drive alone – avoid isolated roads and try to travel with a group. These banditos are unlikely to take your car – they want your cash. Most locals advise that you should simply drive on without stopping (especially if you are already going fast), as they’re unlikely to shoot. It’s a tough call, but if you do stop, do not resist and just pay up.
< Back to Crime and personal safety
Drugs
Drugs of all kinds are available everywhere. Buying or using really isn’t worth the risk: penalties are very strict. If you are arrested with drugs your embassy will probably send someone to visit you, and maybe find an English-speaking lawyer, but otherwise you’re on your own. Practically every capital city has foreigners incarcerated for drug offences who’d never do it again if they knew what the punishment was like. Drug gangs are a major problem, especially in Honduras, Guatemala and El Salvador, and are responsible for much of the high crime rates.
< Back to Crime and personal safety
Reporting a crime
If you are unfortunate enough to suffer a crime, report the incident immediately to the police – if there is a tourist police force, try them first – if only to get a copy of the report (denuncia), which you’ll need for insurance purposes. The police in Central America are poorly paid and, in the case of petty crime, you can’t expect them to do much more than make out the report. If you can, also report the crime to your embassy – it helps the consular staff to build up a higher-level case for the better protection of tourists.
Travel essentials
BUDGET TIPS
- Slow down. Racing from place to place eats into your budget, as you’ll be forking out for transport and tours every day.
- Eat and drink as the locals do. Local staples can be half the price of even the most reasonable tourist menu. Set lunches in traditional comedores are great value.
- Cut down your beer bill. When buying booze it’s cheapest to get it from small tiendas (shops) and take back the bottles to claim the deposit. Litre bottles are more economical than the 330ml ones.
- Refill your water bottle. Many hostels/hotels offer water refills for free or a small fee. Alternatively, in some countries you can buy 500ml bags (bolsitas) of water. If you’re not moving around, invest in larger gallon bottles.
- Use local transport. Tourist shuttles should be the exception, not the norm.
- Let your money work for you. Try to get a bank account that allows free withdrawals at foreign ATMs. This also allows you to carry small amounts of cash, as ATMs are plentiful.
- Share costs with other travellers. The price of a private room for two is often cheaper than two dorm beds; a triple is even better value.
- Walk as much as possible, during the day at least. Taxis are often very expensive (though often the only safe option at night, when you should take them).
- Shop in markets, bakeries and supermarkets. Self-catering is worthwhile if you’re staying in one place and can eat your leftovers for breakfast.
- Learn to haggle – bargaining can be fun. Don’t be afraid to confront taxi drivers or chancers who you suspect are trying to rip you off. However, don’t be too aggressive – a traveller from a comparatively rich country arguing over a few cents is not cool.
Costs
Your daily expenses are likely to include accommodation, food and drink and transport. You may wish to budget separately for activities, as one-off costs (for example, a day’s snorkelling or diving) can be high and would blow a daily budget. In general, the cheapest countries in the region are Honduras, Nicaragua, Guatemala and El Salvador, while Belize, Costa Rica and Panama are more expensive. However, even in these countries it is still possible to travel on a budget of around US$35 per day, with the most significant difference being the cost of public transport and accommodation.
Generally speaking, the price quoted in restaurants and hotels is the price you pay. However, in some more upmarket establishments an additional tax will appear on your bill; it’s worth checking if tax is included from the outset. Service is almost never included, and, while not expected, tipping for good service can make a huge impact on the basic wage. Prices for accommodation (as well as some airfares and organized tours) can be considerably cheaper in low season (generally Sept–Dec), when it’s always worth negotiating to obtain the best price (prices quoted in this guide are based on high-season rates).
Tiered pricing (charging foreigners more than nationals) is becoming more common, in particular for entrance fees. This is based on the premise that tourists can afford to pay considerably more to visit attractions than those on local salaries.
Electricity
All countries in the region use sockets accepting the flat two-pronged plug
common to the majority of the Americas; kropla.com is a useful website with information about adapters and
converters. Standard voltage is 110–120v. Be wary of
electric showerheads, often with protruding wires,
in budget accommodation. If it isn’t working (more than likely), do not touch
the fitting. You may want to consider using a towel to turn off the conductive
taps, too.
Gay and lesbian travellers
Apart from in Belize – where homosexual acts are illegal, and which officially bans gay foreigners from entering the country (though these laws have yet to be enforced, and are soon to be challenged before the Supreme Court) – consensual homosexual acts are legal throughout Central America (and in Mexico, which is far more liberal). In reality, however, homosexuality is barely tolerated by conservative Central American society, and harassment does exist in certain areas. Gay and lesbian travellers are unlikely to experience problems, however, if they remain discreet. Unsurprisingly, there is little in the way of an open gay community or scene. In the more cosmopolitan capital cities a few gay clubs exist, although these are almost entirely geared towards men.
YOUTH AND STUDENT DISCOUNTS
There are few youth or student discounts in the region. Indeed, often you will find yourself charged more than locals simply because you are a foreigner. It is always worth enquiring if discounts are available, however, as on occasion entrance fees may be tiered (and applicable to foreigners as well as nationals). If a discount is applicable you will need to show ID. Most useful is the International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which can also be used to obtain discounts on flight bookings. You can get these from STA Travel and affiliated agencies with current official ID issued by your school/university (enrolling at a Spanish language school is generally not sufficient to obtain official student ID).
Insurance
It’s important to take out an insurance policy before travelling to cover against theft, loss, illness or injury. Before paying for a new policy, however, check whether you are already covered on any existing home or medical insurance policies that you may hold. A typical travel insurance policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and – up to a certain limit – cash or cheques, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey. Most of them exclude so-called dangerous sports unless an extra premium is paid: in Central America this can mean scuba diving, whitewater rafting, surfing and trekking. It is also useful to have a policy providing a 24-hour medical emergency number.
When securing baggage cover, make sure that the per-article limit – typically under £500/US$1000 – will cover your most valuable possession. If you need to make a claim, you should keep receipts for medicines and medical treatment as well as any high-value items that are being insured. In the event that you have anything stolen, you must obtain a denuncia from the police.
Several companies now offer tailored “backpacker” insurance, which provides low-cost coverage for extended durations (beyond the standard thirty-day holiday policies). These include Rough Guides’ own recommended insurance.
ROUGH GUIDES TRAVEL INSURANCE
Rough Guides has teamed up with WorldNomads.com to offer great travel
insurance deals. Policies are available to residents of more
than 150 countries, with cover for a wide range of adventure sports, 24hr emergency assistance, high levels of
medical and evacuation cover and a stream of travel safety
information. roughguides.com users can take advantage of their policies online
24/7, from anywhere in the world – even if you’re already travelling. And
since plans often change when you’re on the road, you can extend your policy
and even claim online. In addition, buying travel insurance with WorldNomads.com can also leave
a positive footprint and donate to a community development project. For more
information go to roughguides.com/travel-insurance.
Internet
Central America is increasingly well connected to
the internet and you should have little difficulty getting online. Even smaller
towns usually have at least one internet café, often populated by noisy gaming
schoolkids, and hostels, restaurants and hotels are increasingly offering free
wi-fi. Many internet cafés are well equipped with webcams and headphones as well
as the facility to download digital photos onto CD. Check kropla.com for details of how to use
your laptop when abroad.
Stamps are rarely available outside the post office (correo), although it can be worth asking if you are buying a postcard, for example, as occasionally souvenir shops and stationers do stock them. Sending mail from the main post office in any capital city is probably the best way to ensure speedy and efficient delivery. The cost and speed of mailing items varies from country to country, but is by far cheapest and quickest from Panama. To receive mail by poste restante you should address it to yourself at “Lista de Correos” at the “Correo Central” in the capital city of the appropriate country.
Maps
The best overall map of Central America, covering
the region at a scale of 1:1,100,000, is produced by Canada’s International
Travel Maps and Books (itmb.com). They
also publish individual country maps at various scales. Maps are generally hard
to find once you get to Central America, so it’s wise to bring them with you
when possible.
Money
Cash payments are the norm in Central America, with the most convenient way to access money being via an ATM (cajero automático). Most machines accept Visa and MasterCard credit cards, as well as Visa debit cards, and are increasingly widespread throughout the region. However, it is always advisable to check the Directory sections of specific destinations in this guide in advance of travel to confirm that smaller settlements have an ATM, as not all do. If you are relying on ATMs, it’s worth having a back-up card in case the first is lost or stolen. If you plan to be travelling for a significant period, it is worth thoroughly researching your bank’s terms for cash withdrawals abroad – some make no charge at all, allowing you to make frequent withdrawals and carry only small amounts of cash around urban areas. As a possible alternative some banks will give cash advances over the counter (sometimes for a small fee). Try to hoard notes of small denominations; you will constantly encounter problems obtaining change from local businesses, often stalling transactions as no one has anything smaller than a US$1 bill (or its equivalent). In general, budget-friendly hotels and restaurants do not take credit cards, though a few mid-range establishments and tourist handicraft shops may accept them. Travellers’ cheques are increasingly difficult to change for the same reason, but are good to carry as a back-up. Note that most Central American ATMs do not accept five-digit PINs; contact your bank at home in advance if you have one.
Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica each have their own
national currency, while El Salvador and Panama
both use the US dollar (in Panama the dollar is divided into 100 balboas –
although US cents are also legal tender). However, US
dollars are accepted throughout Central America and in many places
prices for tourist services (language school fees, plane tickets, tour fees) are
quoted exclusively in them. Indeed, some ATMs (particularly those in Nicaragua)
will actually dispense dollars on request. Local currency is always accepted at
the current exchange rate, though, so there is no need to carry huge amounts of
dollars in cash, though it is certainly useful to carry some to exchange at
border crossings. Generally speaking, you should also get rid of any remaining
unwanted local currency at border crossings, as it will be more difficult to
exchange the further away from the border you are. Try to research the current
exchange rates before dealing with moneychangers (oanda.com or xe.com).
Phones
It’s easy enough to phone home from most cities and towns in Central America. Each country has a national telecommunications company with offices throughout the country. It’s also worth keeping an eye out for internet cafés that offer Skype, for excellent-value international calls. Mobile phones are as prolific as they are in the developed world; despite living in relative poverty, the rural population can often be spotted checking their text messages. You may find that taking your own phone comes in useful in emergencies, but on the other hand, it does become one more item to keep secure. Also remember that rates to receive calls and messages while abroad are often extortionate. Alternatively, you may consider buying a phone locally, as packages that include call-time are reasonable. However, practically speaking, if you only anticipate making the odd call, forget the mobile and simply use local payphones, which are usually easy to come by (the exception is El Salvador, where they have largely been replaced by mobiles).
Shopping
When it comes to shopping you’ll find that what’s on offer is either significantly cheaper or significantly different to what’s available back home – from places like the Guatemalan highlands, where indigenous craft markets abound, to Panama City, where glitzy shopping malls offer cut-price designer clothing and shoes. Throughout the region you can also buy locally sourced coffee, thereby supporting local farmers.
In markets haggling is standard. Try not to get cornered by stallholders, who will try to pressure you into buying on the spot. It is always wise to compare various sellers’ best prices before agreeing to a sale. If you’re looking for crafts, it’s also worth scouting out official tourist shops (where prices are fixed) to get a ballpark figure to try and beat in markets. If you plan to buy several items you will get the best prices if you buy in bulk from the same seller. Haggling is not commonplace in shops. However, if you are unsure about whether or not prices are fixed, simply ask if discounts apply: “Hay descuentos?”
Time
Panama is GMT –5, and all the other countries are GMT –6, in the Central Time Zone (same as Central Standard Time in the US). In recent years, Central American governments have gone back and forth on the issue of whether or not to apply daylight savings as an energy-saving measure, and will no doubt continue to do so in the future.
Tourist information
Official sources of tourist information in Central America are spotty at best. For budget travellers, often the best way to obtain the latest advice is to talk to other backpackers about their experiences. Similarly, popular hostels usually have notice boards and the best have clued-up staff with local knowledge. All Central American countries do have their own official tourist offices, which we have detailed in each individual Basics chapter, but the prevalence of these on the ground is not great. However, the following tourist-office websites provide a useful reference, especially for pre-trip planning. See also the “… Online” boxes in the individual Basics chapters for further suggestions.
USEFUL WEBSITES
2backpackers.com Blog from a well-travelled couple who have journeyed extensively
across Central America (and pretty much everywhere else).
centralamericanpolitics.blogspot.com Blog that follows Central American politics by associate professor of
political science at the University of Scranton (US), currently living
in Guatemala.
cotal.org.ar Confederation of Latin American Tourist Organizations.
horariodebuses.com Useful online bus schedules for Central (and South) America.
lanic.utexas.edu/country/central/ Latin American Network Information Center.
latinnews.com Real-time news feed with major stories from all over Latin America in
English.
onlinenewspapers.com One page of news per country, with hyperlinks to Spanish and English
papers.
Travellers with disabilities
Central America is not the most accessible part of the world for travellers
with disabilities. On the whole, it’s the top-end hotels and services that may
offer equipped facilities – out of the price range for most budget travellers.
However, for the most part, Central American society is community-orientated and
strangers take pleasure in helping and facilitating the passage of others.
Costa Rica (where tourist facilities are
well developed) and Panama (where there is a
large expat community) have the best infrastructure, relative to the rest of the
region. Specialist websites advising travellers with disabilities include able-travel.com, globalaccessnews.com and disabledtraveladvice.co.uk.