A meal is only as good as its side dishes. A grand roast chicken, for example, should be served with crisp and golden roast potatoes that really do it justice. We Irish are a nation thoroughly in love with the potato, and whether roasted, boiled, mashed or fried there are few meals served without spuds. It is the floury varieties that are most popular here – varieties such as Kerr’s Pink, Golden Wonder and Home Guards.
With so many delicious varieties available, vegetables needn’t be an afterthought but can be just as delicious and impressive as the meat you serve. Cabbage, when cooked gently in butter – not overboiled – is a seriously special vegetable. Peas and broad beans make for beautiful and sweet summer treats. Both colcannon and champ are two divine examples of combining great fresh vegetables with our beloved mashed potatoes.
This salad comes from a Quaker lady, Lydia Strangman, who used to live in Kinoith, the house in which my husband grew up, on the grounds of the Ballymaloe Cookery School. It is wonderfully old-fashioned and salads of the sort would have been served all over the country in days gone by. To my husband Isaac, this is the perfect expression of a salad as comfort food.
The dressing is named after the small village of Shanagarry, which is just next to the Cookery School.
Vegetarian
Serves 2–4
Preparation time: 25 minutes
A few handfuls of lettuce leaves
4 tomatoes, quartered
½ cucumber, sliced
4 radishes, sliced
2 small beetroot, cooked, peeled and sliced
2 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and quartered
2 spring onions
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
A few sprigs of watercress
FOR THE SHANAGARRY CREAM DRESSING
2 hard-boiled eggs, shelled
1 tbsp dark brown sugar
Pinch of salt
1 tsp dry mustard powder
1 tbsp malt vinegar
125ml (4½fl oz) double or whipping cream
To make the dressing, cut the eggs in half and push the yolks through a sieve and into a bowl. Add the sugar, salt and mustard powder. Add the vinegar and cream and mix together. Chop the egg whites quite finely and stir half into the dressing mixture; reserve the rest for sprinkling over the salad.
You can arrange the salad on one large plate or on individual serving plates. Arrange the lettuce in the centre of the plate, then scatter over the tomatoes, cucumber, radishes and beetroot. Arrange the egg quarters on top, then sprinkle over the reserved egg whites, spring onions, parsley and watercress. Drizzle over the dressing and serve immediately.
A great salad is often just as simple as some leaves with a dressing, but there are times when you might want to introduce other flavours and textures. Try adding chopped spring onions or red onions, diced avocado, olives, toasted pine nuts or roasted seeds, such as pumpkin, sunflower or sesame.
To dress the salad, drizzle a little dressing over the dry, washed leaves, then toss gently in a bowl. There should be just enough dressing so that the leaves are almost glistening; if they’re overdressed, they will be soggy and heavy.
Vegetarian
Makes 150ml (5fl oz)
Preparation time: 10 minutes
100ml (3½fl oz) extra virgin olive oil
50ml (2fl oz) freshly squeezed lemon juice
Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the dressing, mix the olive oil and lemon juice in a jar and shake vigorously to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Alternatively, put the ingredients in a bowl and just stir together.
Honey garlic dressing: To the basic dressing, add 1 peeled and crushed small clove garlic, 1 teaspoon honey and 1 finely chopped small shallot (or ½ red onion).
Balsamic thyme vinaigrette: Replace the lemon juice with balsamic vinegar and add 1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme leaves to the basic dressing.
Dijon-honey vinaigrette: Replace the lemon juice with cider vinegar and add 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard and 1 teaspoon honey.
This dish turns cabbage into something truly luxurious. The saltiness of the bacon works perfectly with cabbage. It is particularly good served with roast pork or chicken.
Serves 6–8
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
50g (2oz) butter
6 rashers of smoked streaky bacon, thinly sliced
1 large savoy or green cabbage (about 600g/1lb 5oz), outer leaves removed
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp water
200ml (7fl oz) single or double cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Melt the butter in a large frying pan or wok over high heat, add the bacon and fry for 4–5 minutes, until crisp and golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
Meanwhile, cut the cabbage into quarters, removing the core from each piece, and thinly shred across the grain. Add the cabbage to the pan, along with the garlic and water. Sauté for about 5 minutes over medium-high heat, tossing frequently, until wilted and just tender.
Increase the heat a little and return the bacon to the pan. Pour in the cream and allow to bubble for a few minutes until thickened slightly. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
This is the way we prepare cabbage here at the Ballymaloe Cookery School. The cabbage isn’t boiled, but cooked in butter with only a splash of water. This way the water doesn’t leech out any flavour or nutrition.
Vegetarian
Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 3 minutes
450g (1lb) savoy cabbage (or another dark green, leafy cabbage)
25g (1oz) butter
2 tbsp water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Remove the tough outer leaves from the cabbage. Cut the head of cabbage into quarters, from top to bottom. Cut out the core, then slice the cabbage crossways into fine shreds, about 5mm (¼in) thick.
Combine the butter and water in a wide saucepan over medium heat and allow the butter to melt. Toss in the cabbage and season with salt and pepper. Cover with a lid and cook for 2–3 minutes, until just softened; do not let the cabbage burn. Taste immediately for seasoning and serve.
The leeks are cooked in butter and just a small amount of water, making them richly flavoured and wonderfully soft. The most mild of the allium family, leeks are very versatile, and this dish would be just as at home with chicken or pork as with a piece of fish.
Vegetarian
Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
6 medium leeks (about 1kg/2lb 2oz), washed and dark green tops and roots removed
25g (1oz) butter
2 tbsp water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp chopped fresh marjoram, chervil or tarragon (optional)
Cut the leeks into slices about 2cm (¾in) thick.
Combine the butter and water in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper and stir to mix well. Reduce the heat to very low and cover. If you can, place a disc of greaseproof paper or butter wrapper on top of the leeks before you add the lid; this keeps them very moist though it isn’t essential. Cook for 6–10 minutes, until just cooked; the leeks shouldn’t lose their fresh green colour but should be good and soft. Stir in the chopped herbs (if using), then serve.
Kale is a favourite of mine. It gets us through the dark winter months when there isn’t much green around. This recipe is supremely soothing; the rich cream is offset by just a hint of warming nutmeg. It is a very versatile side dish and works well with roast or grilled meat.
Vegetarian
Serves 4
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
450g (1lb) curly kale, stems removed (approximately 300g/11oz without stems) and finely shredded
100ml (3½fl oz) single cream
25g (1oz) butter
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the kale and cook for 3–5 minutes, just until tender, then drain the kale and return to the saucepan. Add the cream, butter and nutmeg and allow to bubble for 2–3 minutes, until slightly thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve while hot.
Pea purée is naturally sweet and the green colour is lovely and intense. Make sure the peas are only just cooked, so they don’t lose their bright colour and fresh flavour. This pureé works especially well with fish, such as mackerel, but is great served as a dip with tortilla chips.
Vegetarian
Serves 4
Preparation time: 3 minutes
Cooking time: 2 minutes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
450g (1lb) fresh or frozen peas
75ml (3fl oz) extra virgin olive oil
Good squeeze of lemon juice
Bring a saucepan of water to a boil with 1 teaspoon salt. Tip in the peas and cook for 1–2 minutes (plus an extra minute for frozen peas), until just soft, then drain well. Combine with the olive oil and blend in a food processor or with a hand-held blender until smooth. Add lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.
Broad beans are one of my favourite summer vegetables. Though a little time-consuming to prepare properly, they are always worth it. The mint here brings its fresh taste, which goes great with the beans, although you can just as easily serve them with parsley or no herbs at all. Keep the leftovers and toss into a salad the next day.
Vegetarian
Serves 2–4
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
500g (1lb 2oz) podded fresh or frozen broad beans
25g (1oz) butter
4 tbsp roughly chopped fresh mint
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil with 1 teaspoon of salt. Add the beans, bring back to a boil and cook for 2–3 minutes if fresh, or 5–6 minutes if frozen. Drain well. Once cool enough to handle, pop the beans out of their skins.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. When the butter is frothing, add the beans and toss for 30–60 seconds to warm through. Add the mint, tossing it with the beans, and season well with salt and pepper. Spoon into a bowl and serve immediately.
Unsurprisingly, with all our rain and woodlands, we have an abundance of mushrooms every autumn. I love the big flat frills of a portabello mushroom – they look so proud and almost regal. If you can’t get portabellos, any big flat mushroom would work well in this recipe.
Vegetarian
Serves 4
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
8 portabello mushrooms
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
25g (1oz) finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE LIME CREAM CHEESE
150g (5oz) cream cheese, softened
1 heaped tbsp chopped fresh mint
Zest and juice of 1 lime
Juice of ½ lemon
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.
Remove the stems from the portabello mushrooms, arrange the caps on a baking tray, drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle over the Parmesan cheese, garlic, thyme and some salt and pepper.
Roast for 10–15 minutes, until softened. Meanwhile, stir together the cream cheese, mint, lime zest and juice and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Spoon the lime cream cheese on top of the mushrooms and serve.
We have great root vegetables and often I cook them simply roasted or in a mash with little dressing up. I do like to get more creative (especially by February when that’s all there is growing!), and this dish is a real favourite of mine. The natural sugars in the vegetables work beautifully with the apricot jam.
Vegetarian
Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
500g (1lb 2oz) small carrots, tops trimmed
500g (1lb 2oz) small parsnips, peeled and halved (if larger than the carrots)
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp apricot jam
2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.
Combine the carrots and parsnips in a large roasting tin and drizzle with the olive oil. Scatter over the cumin seeds, season with salt and pepper and toss everything together to coat evenly. Roast in the oven for 40–45 minutes, tossing occasionally in the oil during cooking, until tender and golden.
In the meantime, heat the apricot jam and lemon juice for a few minutes in a small saucepan, stirring until you have a smooth, runny sauce. Pour this over the carrots and parsnips for the last 10 minutes of cooking, tossing the vegetables in the sauce to coat evenly. Sprinkle with the coriander just before serving.
Cauliflower cheese is maybe the most nostalgic dish to me. My mum would often make it when I was young. She’d mostly use whatever cheese was in the fridge, but usually a creamy cheese like a Cheddar. This is supremely comforting food to serve with roast chicken or beef.
Vegetarian
Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cauliflower, broken into small to medium florets, leaves reserved
300ml (11fl oz) Basic White Sauce made with 3 tbsp plain flour and 3 tbsp butter
¼ tsp dry mustard powder
75g (3oz) grated cheese (Cheddar, Gruyère, Stilton, whatever you have!)
Good pinch of nutmeg (freshly grated, if possible)
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Fill a large saucepan with about 3cm (1in) water and add a little salt. Arrange the cauliflower leaves in the bottom, sit the cauliflower florets on top, cover with a lid and bring to a boil. Cook for 8–10 minutes, until the stems are tender when pierced with a knife. Remove the cauliflower (discarding the leaves), drain well and arrange in a single layer in a large gratin dish.
In the meantime, make the cheese sauce. Start with the white sauce in a small saucepan over low heat and add the mustard and most of the grated cheese, reserving a little to scatter over the top of the dish, and stir until melted. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Preheat the grill to high. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower in the dish and then scatter the reserved cheese on top. Grill for 2–3 minutes, until golden and bubbling on top. Scatter the chopped parsley over and serve.
Once the cauliflower cheese is assembled in the dish, it can be popped in the fridge for a few hours until you are ready to serve. Before grilling, reheat the cauliflower cheese in a preheated 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6 oven for about 20 minutes.
Some roast meats, like lamb or traditional stuffed chicken, simply demand really good roasted potatoes as an accompaniment. My late grandmother used to make the best roasted potatoes, the ones that are crispy and crunchy on the outside, and soft on the inside. The trick is to parboil the potatoes, then drain them and shake them in the saucepan before roasting.
Vegetarian (if made with olive oil)
Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
8–10 large floury potatoes, peeled and, if large, cut in half
Olive oil, duck or goose fat, or beef dripping
Salt
4 sprigs of thyme or 2 sprigs of rosemary
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7.
Drop the potatoes into boiling salted water and cook for 10 minutes. Drain off the water and shake the potatoes around in the dry saucepan with the lid on – this roughens the surface of the potatoes and makes them cook up crispier.
Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a roasting tin on top of the hob, add the potatoes and toss, making sure the potatoes are well coated (add more fat if they are not). Sprinkle with salt and roast in the hot oven for 35–55 minutes, basting (spooning the hot oil or fat over them) every now and then and turning over after 20 minutes or so. When they are nearly cooked, tuck the herb sprigs in between the potatoes. You can turn the oven down to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6 after 15–20 minutes if you think they are dark enough. If the potatoes have to keep warm in the oven for any amount of time, do not cover them or they will go soggy.
Stuffing may have once been used to bulk out more expensive meat, but it is cooked now as a delicious dish in its own right. This is a great basic stuffing recipe with lots of variations for you to try. Do experiment with your own favourite herbs and ingredients. This stuffing can be made in advance and kept in the fridge for a couple of days or frozen.
Makes about 250g (9oz)
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
25g (1oz) butter
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
3 tbsp chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as parsley, thyme and sage
100g (3½oz) fresh white breadcrumbs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Combine the butter and olive oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and garlic, cover with a butter wrapper or a piece of greaseproof paper and then cover with a lid. Cook for 8–10 minutes, until the onions are soft but not browned. Take off the heat, remove the lid and paper cover and stir in the herbs and breadcrumbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Lemony stuffing: (Makes about 250g/9oz)
Stir the finely grated zest of 1 lemon and the juice of ½ lemon into the stuffing mixture at the same time as the herbs and breadcrumbs.
Chorizo stuffing: (Makes about 350g/12oz)
Cook 110g (4oz) very finely chopped dried chorizo sausage with the onion. Basil, thyme and marjoram would go well with this as the mixed herbs.
Smoked bacon stuffing: (Makes about 325g/11½oz)
Use a red onion in place of a yellow one, and cook with 50g (2oz) chopped smoked bacon or pancetta. Use thyme and/or parsley as the herbs.
Ivan Whelan’s chestnut stuffing: (Makes about 450g/1lb)
Stir 150g (5oz) finely chopped and toasted chestnuts into the stuffing mixture. Use sage and/or rosemary as the herbs. For Christmas stuffing, add 50g (2oz) dried cranberries as well.
Fruit and nut stuffing: (Makes about 450g/1lb)
This variation goes surprisingly well with chicken. Stir 50g (2oz) chopped dried apricots, 50g (2oz) sultanas and 50g (2oz) chopped and toasted hazelnuts into the stuffing mixture.
What I love about this recipe is that two humble ingredients are brought together, and with just a little effort they’re made into something really special. The onions become golden and sweet in the pan, while the potatoes are crispy on the outside but wonderfully fluffy on the inside. This is delicious with any roast meat, a steak or even a burger. Use any leftover mixture in a frittata or omelette. You can omit the onions and just serve the sautéed potatoes, if you desire.
Vegetarian
Serves 4
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
800g (1¾lb) floury potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm (¾in) cubes
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
25g (1oz) butter
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme or rosemary leaves
Dry the potatoes well in a clean tea towel. Pour 3 tablespoons of the olive oil into a large, heavy frying pan over high heat and add the potatoes. Turn the heat down to low-medium and sauté the potatoes for 30–35 minutes, tossing regularly, until softened, crisp and golden. Season well with salt and pepper.
In the meantime, heat the butter and remaining oil in a separate frying pan over low-medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the onion. Cook for about the same length of time, 30–35 minutes, until softened and caramelised to a golden colour. Add the garlic and thyme to the onions during the last 5 minutes of cooking and season well with salt and pepper.
Tip the caramelised onions into the pan with the sautéed potatoes, toss together and serve immediately.
For a variation on standard mashed potato, why not try making it with other root vegetables? This recipe uses a mixture of parsnip, celeriac and sweet potato for a luxurious mash that’s full of flavour. What’s great about this side dish is that it works well with whatever root vegetables you have. This recipe should be considered a guideline only; try using more or less of any of the vegetables, or you could add Jerusalem artichokes, turnips or even beetroot. With butter and cream, you can turn modest ingredients into something quite luxurious.
Vegetarian
Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 20–25 minutes
1 carrot, cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 parsnip, peeled and cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks
½ celeriac, peeled and cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks
1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks
2 tbsp butter or olive oil
2 tbsp double or whipping cream (optional)
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme or rosemary
Put the carrot in a large saucepan and cover with cold water, adding a good pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-high and simmer for 5 minutes. Tip in the parsnip, celeriac and sweet potato and continue cooking for another 15 minutes, or until all the vegetables are tender.
Drain well, then add the butter and the cream (if using). Mash the vegetables either by hand or in a food processor for a smoother purée. Taste for seasoning, adding pepper and more salt if needed, then stir in the chopped herbs and serve.
Good mashed potato is the best comfort food ever, eaten on its own with a great knob of butter melting in it. It is hugely popular in our family – we’d eat it for every meal! For the most nutritious version – and the fluffiest mash – boil the potatoes in their skins and peel afterwards. Floury potatoes are always best as new potatoes are too waxy for mashing.
Vegetarian
Serves 4
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
1kg (2lb 2oz) floury potatoes, scrubbed clean
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g (2oz) butter
200ml (7fl oz) milk, or 150ml (5fl oz) milk and 50ml (2fl oz) single or double cream, plus more if needed
Put the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with cold water and add a good pinch of salt. Bring the water to a boil and cook the potatoes for 10 minutes. Then pour out all but about 4cm (1½in) of the water, cover and continue to cook the potatoes over very low heat. Don’t be tempted to stick a knife into them at any stage to see if they are cooked – the skins will split and the potatoes will just break up and become soggy if you do. About 20 minutes later, when you think the potatoes might be cooked, test them with a skewer; if they are soft, take them off the heat and drain them.
Peel the potatoes while they are still hot, holding them in a clean tea towel to avoid scalding your hands. Mash them immediately. Add the butter, but don’t add any milk until the potatoes are free of lumps. Bring the milk to a boil in a small saucepan. Slowly stir the boiling milk into the potatoes – you may not need it all, or you may need more, depending on the texture of the potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
If you want to make the mash in advance, add a little extra milk, to keep the potatoes moist as they sit. The mash keeps well in a warm oven as long as it is covered with a lid, plate or foil.
Boxty are traditional potato pancakes that are particularly loved in the Northern counties. They can be served as a potato side dish rather than mashed or boiled potatoes or as part of an Irish breakfast. This is my husband Isaac’s take on boxty, he uses cream and not too much flour so they’re good and rich.
Vegetarian
Serves 4
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
1 egg
50ml (2fl oz) single cream
250g (9oz) floury potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated
15g (½oz) plain flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
25g (1oz) butter
In a bowl, whisk together the egg with the cream. Add the potato and flour, season with salt and pepper and stir to mix. The mixture will be slightly runny.
Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the potato mixture and cook for 8–10 minutes on each side, until the surface is golden brown and the potato is cooked through. Remove to a serving plate and cut into wedges to serve.
Champ is similar to colcannon, but made with spring onions. I’ve added peas for their sweetness and to make this dish a little more substantial. The peas and spring onions are cooked in the milk so their flavour infuses the whole dish. This champ makes a versatile side dish and goes well with any meat, especially bacon or pork.
Vegetarian
Serves 6–8
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
1.5kg (3lb 4oz) floury potatoes, scrubbed clean
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
100g (3½oz) butter
500ml (18fl oz) milk or 400ml (14fl oz) milk and 100ml (3½fl oz) single cream
450g (1lb) fresh or frozen peas
75g (3oz) sliced spring onions
4 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Fill a large saucepan with water, then add the potatoes and a good pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Then pour all but about 4cm (1½in) of the water out of the pan, cover and continue to cook the potatoes over very low heat. (Don’t be tempted to stick a knife into them as the skins will break and they will disintegrate.) Continue to cook for another 20–30 minutes, until a skewer goes in easily.
Drain the potatoes, peel while they are still hot and put into a bowl along with three-quarters of the butter. Mash immediately by hand, or beat in an electric food mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, until they are free of lumps.
Bring the milk (or milk and cream) to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the peas and spring onions and boil for 2 minutes. Then add the parsley and remove from the heat. Add most of this mixture to the potatoes, season with salt and pepper and beat until creamy and smooth. Add more of the milk mixture if necessary (you might not need all of it, but do add in all of the peas and spring onions using a slotted spoon), then serve hot with the remaining butter melting in the centre.
Colcannon is a traditional Irish dish made from mashed potato and cabbage or kale. By roasting the garlic, its flesh is tempered and tamed to become sweet and mellow.
Vegetarian
Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1¼ hours
1 large bulb garlic, left whole and unpeeled
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
1 sprig of rosemary
1kg (2lb 2oz) floury potatoes, scrubbed clean
450g (1lb) savoy cabbage or kale
250ml (9fl oz) milk
50g (2oz) butter, plus extra to serve
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7.
Place the whole bulb of garlic in a small ovenproof dish, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper and add the sprig of rosemary. Cover with foil and roast for about 45 minutes, until the garlic has completely softened.
Put the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Add a good pinch of salt, cover with a lid and bring to a boil. After 10 minutes, strain off two-thirds of the water, put the lid back on the pan and cook over gentle heat so that the potatoes steam for about 30 minutes, until they are tender.
Remove and discard the dark tough outer leaves from the cabbage (if using). Wash the rest and cut into quarters, removing the core. Cut the cabbage across the grain into slices about 5mm (¼in) thick. Place in another large saucepan, add the milk, and simmer for about 4 minutes or until tender. If you’re using kale, cut out the tough centre rib of the leaves, then slice and cook in milk as for the cabbage.
When the potatoes are just cooked, peel them while still warm and immediately mash them with the butter and some salt and pepper. Use your fingers to squeeze out the roasted garlic pulp and beat into the potatoes with enough boiling milk from the cabbage to make a fluffy purée. Then drain the cooked cabbage or kale, stir into the mash and taste for seasoning.
For perfection, serve immediately in a hot dish with a lump of butter melting on top.
