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Puddings and cakes

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A truly delicious pudding can really make a meal. Since I was a young girl I have always enjoyed making puddings. I do have a real sweet tooth and, even if it’s just a morsel, I crave a little something sweet after my meal.

The puddings and cakes in Ireland often feature the fruits we can grow here, which means tarts and crumbles packed full of our gorgeous apples, pears and lots of lovely berries. There are also more specifically Irish dishes such as Carrageen Moss Pudding. This chapter also includes a few recipes that use the delicious flavours of Irish coffee, and there’s also a recipe for the drink itself.

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Darina’s summer pudding

This is my mother-in-law Darina’s recipe, which we teach in the Cookery School. It’s such a celebration of summer berries, their flavours mixing and melding together as the pudding sets in the fridge. This summer pudding uses cake rather than bread to line the bowl. That extra dimension of sweetness makes it really special and it should be served with lots of softly whipped cream.

Make sure the fruit and syrup is boiling when you pour it into the cake-lined bowl, otherwise the syrup won’t properly soak in. You can use either fresh or frozen berries.

Vegetarian

Serves 12–16

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Ready in 8 hours

2 (18cm/7in) sponge cakes

550g (1lb 4oz) caster sugar

725ml (24fl oz) water

225g (8oz) blackcurrants, fresh or frozen

225g (8oz) redcurrants, fresh or frozen

225g (8oz) raspberries, fresh or frozen

225g (8oz) strawberries, fresh or frozen

Vanilla ice cream or softly whipped cream, to serve

Cut each round of sponge cake in half, horizontally. Set aside one of the halves for topping the pudding.

Line a large bowl with cake in a single layer. A plastic bowl is useful because it can be squeezed to make unmoulding easier, but it’s not essential; use whatever large bowl you have. The softer side of the cake should be against the bowl. You will need to cut the cake halves into a few pieces to make a sort of patchwork of cake with which to line the bowl. I try and use a few large pieces to begin with then make up the lining by cutting smaller pieces from the remaining cake halves. When you are done, the bowl should be lined with a single layer of cake going all the way up the sides but you will have some scraps left over. Reserve these scraps for later, along with the reserved cake half. Place the cake-lined bowl in a gratin or baking dish.

Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, and bring to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes, then add the blackcurrants and redcurrants and cook until the fruit bursts, 3–4 minutes. Stir in the raspberries and strawberries and remove from the heat.

Ladle some of the hot syrup and fruit into the sponge-cake-lined bowl. When about half full, add the remaining scraps of cake, then fill right up to the top of the bowl with the rest of the fruit (using a slotted spoon) and some more of the syrup. Reserve any excess syrup and place in the fridge. Cover the pudding with the reserved cake half, making a lid for it all, the juice may overflow a little (that’s what the gratin or baking dish is for). Put a plate right side up on top and press down with a heavy weight (such as two cans of tomatoes or beans); more juice will overflow. Allow to cool, then place in the fridge for at least 8 hours or overnight (but it will keep for 3–4 days).

To serve, turn the pudding upside down onto a deep serving dish, unmould by gently squeezing the bowl to free the pudding, then lift the bowl off. Pour any leftover syrup over the top. Serve with vanilla ice cream or softly whipped cream.

Sponge cake

Vegetarian

Makes 2 (18cm/7in) layers

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

125g (4½oz) butter, softened

175g (6oz) caster sugar

3 eggs

175g (6oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

1 tbsp milk

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Use a little butter to grease two (18cm/7in) cake tins, then sprinkle with a little flour and line the bottom of each with a round of parchment paper.

In a bowl, using a wooden spoon or an electric food mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter. Gradually add the sugar, beating until soft and light and quite pale in colour. Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat well between each addition. Sift in the flour and baking powder, then mix everything together lightly and add the milk to moisten. Divide the mixture evenly between the two cake tins and make a little dip in the centre of each to ensure an even rise.

Bake for 20–25 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Place on a wire rack to cool.

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Fluffy lemon pudding

When cooked, this delectable pudding has a layer of lemon sponge sitting on top of a pool of hot lemon curd. This has been made at Ballymaloe for years because it is a favourite of so many people.

Vegetarian

Serves 6

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 40 minutes

50g (2oz) butter, softened

250g (9oz) caster sugar

3 eggs, separated

75g (3oz) plain flour

300ml (11fl oz) milk

Finely grated zest and juice of 2 lemons

Icing sugar, for dusting

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Beat the butter by hand in a large bowl or with an electric food mixer fitted with the paddle attachment until it is really soft and creamy. Add the sugar and beat until pale and fluffy. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating each one in before adding the next. Sift in the flour and add the milk and lemon zest and juice, and mix well together.

Whisk the egg whites in a large, spotlessly clean bowl until they form stiff peaks. Gently fold the egg whites into the cake mixture until well mixed. Pour the mixture into a 1.2 litre (2 pint) oval pie dish (18 × 23cm/7 × 9in) with 5cm (2in) sides.

Bake for 30–40 minutes, until golden and set on top, but not set underneath. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly before sprinkling with icing sugar and serving.

Variation

Individual puddings: Use six small to medium ramekins or ovenproof cups arranged on a baking tray and bake for 15–20 minutes, or until just set. Serve as above.

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Fruit tarts

A seasonal fruit tart is one of the mainstays of Irish puddings. It could be filled with apples and blackberries in the autumn, gooseberries in the summer or rhubarb in the spring. Many Irish farmhouses grow fruit, and it always find its way into a tart of this sort. The pastry isn’t fancy, just a simple but delicious buttery pastry, similar to one that Mrs. O’Connell, my husband’s late grandmother, used to make. My mother-in-law always insists on serving puddings like this with softly whipped cream and with a good sprinkling of brown sugar. It’s really worth doing; the cream accentuates the sweetness of the tart, a little like sprinkling salt over a savoury dish.

Vegetarian

Serves 8–10

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Ready in 1½ hours

175g (6oz) butter, softened

50g (2oz) caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling

2 eggs

250g (9oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

Fruit filling

Softly whipped cream or custard

To make the pastry, use a hand-held beater or an electric food mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment and cream the butter and sugar together until pale and creamy. Add one egg, beating continuously. Beat the second egg in a separate bowl. Pour half of it into the mixture (reserving the remainder for later) and beat again. Sift over the flour and stir in gently to make a smooth, soft dough. Tip the dough onto a clean work surface and knead a little before dividing in two. Shape each piece into a flat round, cover with cling film and leave in the fridge for at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Lightly butter a 23cm (9in) tart tin or shallow pie dish.

Place each pastry half on a floured work surface and roll out to a thickness of about 3mm (⅛in). Use one piece to line the tin, trimming off the excess pastry with the back of a knife. Brush a little of the reserved beaten egg around the edge of the pastry.

Add your chosen fruit filling to the pastry and top with the second rolled-out piece of pastry, trimming the excess once again and pressing the edges together to seal. Use any leftover pastry to decorate the top by rolling it out and cutting it into shapes. Brush all over with the remaining beaten egg.

Bake for 45–50 minutes, until the fruit is tender when tested with a skewer and the pastry is golden. Remove from the oven, lightly sprinkle with sugar and allow to cool slightly. Cut into wedges and serve with whipped cream or custard.

 

Fruit fillings

Apple: Peel, core and dice 700g (1½lb) Bramley or other cooking apples and toss with 150g (5oz) granulated sugar and 2–3 cloves.

Plum, nectarine or peach: Halve, pit and quarter 900g (2lb) plums, nectarines or peeled peaches and toss with 75g (3oz) caster or granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons cornflour. Add an additional teaspoon of the cornflour if the fruit is very ripe.

Strawberry: Toss 700g (1½lb) hulled strawberries (halved if large) with 1 tablespoon cornflour and 50g (2oz) caster or granulated sugar.

Custard

Custard is the perfect accompaniment for a fruit tart or crumble. This recipe takes me right back to my childhood.

Vegetarian

Makes 700ml (24fl oz)

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

500ml (18fl oz) milk

5 egg yolks

100g (3½oz) caster sugar

Pour the milk into a large saucepan and slowly bring to a boil. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks and sugar together in a large bowl until pale and thick. Gradually whisk the hot milk into the beaten eggs and sugar and pour the whole mixture back into the saucepan.

Return to low heat and cook gently for 5–8 minutes, stirring all the time, until the custard thickens slightly (it should just coat the back of the spoon). Pour into a warm jug to serve. If reheating, do so very gently over low heat so that the eggs don’t scramble.

Variations

Vanilla custard: Add 1 vanilla pod, split, to the milk when bringing to a boil in the pan. Remove the pod from the custard before pouring it into the jug to serve. Yummy with plum or rhubarb crumble.

Orange custard: Add 1 strip of orange zest to the milk when bringing to a boil in the pan. Remove the zest from the custard before pouring it into the jug to serve. Goes especially well with the Steamed Ginger Treacle Pudding.

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Irish apple cake

This wonderful cake is a delicious way to make the most of the autumn apples. My husband’s grandmother, Myrtle Allen, has been making this for many years, and it is still made today at Ballymaloe.

Vegetarian

Serves 4–6

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Ready in 1½ hours

225g (8oz) plain flour

½ tsp baking powder

100g (3½oz) butter

100g (3½oz) sugar, plus 2 tbsp

1 egg, beaten

Approximately 100ml (3½fl oz) milk

1 large cooking apple, about 300g (11oz) in weight

1 tsp ground cinnamon

Softly whipped cream, to serve

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Butter a 25cm (10in) pie dish.

Mix the flour with the baking powder. Rub in the butter with your fingertips until the texture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the 100g sugar, beaten egg and enough milk to form a soft dough. Pat out half of the dough in the greased pie dish (don’t worry – it is supposed to be very wet).

Peel, core and chop the apple into 2cm (¾in) cubes. Arrange the apples on the dough and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar and the cinnamon. Gently spoon out the remaining dough on top of the apples to cover them completely. Sprinkle with the remaining sugar and cut a slit through the middle of the top dough.

Bake for 40–50 minutes, until golden and crunchy on the outside (the apples should be soft on the inside). Serve with softly whipped cream.

Rachel’s tip

If the butter is cold (just taken from the fridge), grate it into the flour and it will rub in within a couple of seconds.

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Sweet scones with blueberry jam

Afternoon tea just wouldn’t be right without scones! They are so simple and delicious, particularly with homemade jam, which is much easier to make than many people realise. This scone recipe comes from Elizabeth O’Connell, Isaac’s maternal grandmother.

Vegetarian

Makes 10 scones and 2 × 300ml (11fl oz) jars of jam

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Cooking time: 30 minutes

Ready in 45 minutes

450g (1lb) plain flour

Pinch of salt

20g (¾oz) baking powder

25g (1oz) caster sugar

75g (3oz) butter, softened

2 eggs

200ml (7fl oz) milk

FOR THE JAM

375g (13oz) blueberries, fresh or frozen

2 tbsp water

300g (11oz) caster sugar

3 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

FOR A CRUNCHY GLAZE (OPTIONAL)

1 small egg, beaten (if there is no liquid left from the scones)

Granulated sugar

Butter, whipped cream or clotted cream, to serve

First make the jam, which will then keep in a cool place for several months. Place a saucer in the fridge for testing the jam later. To sterilise the jars (any shape will do, preferably with a lid), put them through a dishwasher cycle, boil in a pan of water for 5 minutes, or place in a preheated oven (150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2) for 10 minutes.

Combine the blueberries and water in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and mash the fruit with a potato masher. Add the sugar and lemon juice and stir over high heat for 5 minutes. Test by placing a small blob on the chilled saucer, leave for 20 seconds, and run your finger through the blob. If it forms a skin, the jam is set. Carefully remove the jars from the dishwasher, pan or oven, using oven gloves, if necessary. Pour the jam into the jars immediately and cover with their lids and screwbands.

To make the scones, preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/Gas Mark 8. Lightly flour a baking tray.

Sift the flour, salt and baking powder into a large bowl; add the sugar and mix. Rub in the butter and make a well in the centre. In another bowl, whisk the eggs and then add the milk. Pour all but 60ml (2½fl oz) of this liquid into the dry ingredients and, using one hand, mix to a soft dough, adding more of the liquid, if necessary.

Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead until a dough is formed. Sprinkle with flour and gently roll out until it is 2–5cm (¾–2in) thick. Cut with a knife or a round 5cm (2in) cutter into scones. Place on the prepared baking tray.

If you opt for a crunchy glaze, brush the scones with the liquid left in the bowl or with a beaten egg, then dip each one, wet side down, into the granulated sugar. Return to the baking tray, sugared side up.

Bake in the centre of the oven for 7–10 minutes, until golden brown on top. Cool on a wire rack. Serve split with butter and jam or with jam and a blob of whipped cream or clotted cream.

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Fruit crumbles

A fruit crumble is a divine yet simple pudding. It’s one of the first pudding recipes we teach here at the Ballymaloe Cookery School. Once you know the technique for making the topping, you can use it to cover whatever fruit you have on hand. I love to serve this dish with flavoured homemade custard.

Vegetarian

Serves 6

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 40 minutes

Ready in 2 hours

Fruit filling

75g (3oz) butter, diced

150g (5oz) plain flour

75g (3oz) soft light brown sugar

Icing sugar, for dusting

Lightly whipped cream, ice cream or custard, to serve

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Lightly butter a 1 litre (1¾ pint) oval (15 × 20cm/6 × 8in) pie dish with 5cm (2in) sides or six individual 120ml (4½fl oz) ramekins. Set on a baking tray.

Prepare your choice of fruit filling from the following list and spread evenly in the bottom of the pie dish or ramekins.

To make the crumble topping, rub the flour and butter together in a large bowl until it resembles very coarse breadcrumbs (don’t rub it in too much or the crumble won’t be crunchy once cooked). Stir in the sugar. Sprinkle the topping over the fruit. (At this point you can place the crumble in the fridge for up to 48 hours or freeze until you want to bake it.)

Bake the crumble for 35–40 minutes in the pie dish (15–20 minutes in the ramekins), until golden and bubbly. Serve dusted with icing sugar and with a dollop of lightly whipped cream.

Fruit filings

Apple and raspberry: Cook 600g (1lb 5oz) (about 2) peeled, cored and roughly chopped cooking apples (such as Bramley or Granny Smith) with 50g (2oz) caster or granulated sugar and 1 tablespoon of water for 6–8 minutes, until soft. Spoon into the prepared pie dish and sprinkle over 200g (7oz) fresh or frozen raspberries.

Apple and sweet mincemeat: Cook 3–4 (800g/1¾lb) peeled, cored and roughly chopped cooking apples (such as Bramley or Granny Smith) with 75g (3oz) caster or granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons of water for 6–8 minutes, or until just softened. Toss with 110g (4oz) sweet mince pie filling and spoon into the prepared pie dish.

Strawberry and rhubarb: Cook 450g (1lb) rhubarb, roughly chopped, with 75g (3oz) sugar and 1 tablespoon of water for about 5 minutes, until it begins to soften. Spoon into the prepared pie dish and sprinkle over 225g (8oz) hulled and quartered strawberries.

Plum and vanilla: Dissolve 75g (3oz) caster or granulated sugar in 100ml (3½fl oz) red wine (or water) in a saucepan over low heat. Pit and quarter 600g (1lb 5oz) plums. Add to the pan with 1 split vanilla pod and cook for 5 minutes, or until the plums begin to soften. Spoon the plums into the prepared pie dish with a slotted spoon. Simmer the remaining liquid until it has reduced by half, making a thick syrup. Remove the vanilla pod and drizzle the syrup over the plums before topping with the crumble.

Variations

Sugars: In place of the light brown sugar, use Demerara, caster or granulated sugar in the crumble topping.

Topping texture: When adding the sugar, stir in any of these: 25g (1oz) rolled oats; 75g (3oz) chopped pecans, chopped hazelnuts or flaked almonds; 2 teaspoons of ground spices, such as cinnamon, nutmeg or mixed spice.

Rachel’s tip

Keep a large batch of the crumble mixture in a food bag in the freezer. Even when frozen, it will easily crumble, so you can remove handfuls to use straight away as you need it.

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Rhubarb and ginger bread and butter pudding

This variation on the classic bread and butter pudding uses rhubarb and ginger, which go together so well. You can use fresh or frozen rhubarb and enjoy the pudding year-round.

For me and so many people in Ireland, this is the absolute essence of comfort food: a pudding that brings us all back to our childhoods, to memories of a dish that is best when cooked without precision or fussiness. It is unashamedly indulgent – the bread soaks up the custard while the sprinkling of granulated sugar ensures the top is perfectly crisp.

Rhubarb is something that grows really well in Ireland, and I have quite a prolific patch in my garden. I like to stew it simply with sugar and water, then serve it with yogurt or custard. This pudding is a serious treat.

Vegetarian

Serves 4–6

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Ready in 2 hours

450g (1lb) rhubarb stalks, cut into 1cm (½in) slices

4 tsp finely grated fresh ginger

150g (5oz) caster sugar

50g (2oz) butter, softened

12 slices white sandwich bread, crusts removed

350ml (12fl oz) single or double cream

350ml (12fl oz) milk

4 eggs

Pinch of salt

2 tbsp granulated sugar

Icing sugar, to serve

Softly whipped cream, to serve

Scatter the rhubarb in a 25cm (10in) square ovenproof baking dish, and sprinkle with half the grated ginger and half the caster sugar. Toss together and then let sit for about 30 minutes to soften a little.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Butter the bread and arrange four slices, buttered side down, in the baking dish. Scatter over half of the prepared rhubarb and top with four more slices of bread, again buttered side down. Repeat with the remaining rhubarb mixture and bread.

Combine the cream, milk and remaining grated ginger in a saucepan and bring just to a boil. While this is coming to a boil, whisk the eggs, salt and remaining caster sugar in a bowl. Continuing to whisk, pour the hot liquid into the egg mixture until well mixed. Slowly pour this custard over the bread and let soak for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the granulated sugar over the top.

Place the baking dish in a deep-sided roasting tin and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides (making a bain-marie). Carefully place in the oven and bake for 45–50 minutes, until the pudding feels just set in the centre. Serve warm with a light dusting of icing sugar and whipped cream.

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Carrageen moss pudding with poached rhubarb

I was first introduced to carrageen (carraigín in Irish, meaning ‘little rock’) moss pudding – Irish moss pudding – when I came down to Ballymaloe at the age of eighteen. Myrtle Allen, who first opened the Ballymaloe House in 1964, has been cooking this dish in the restaurant for decades. It is an old Irish dish but hers is undoubtedly the best version I’ve tried. Carrageen is a type of seaweed that works like gelatin, and it gently sets the cooked milk to make a light and fluffy pudding. Carrageen is harvested at low tide, then put out to dry on the rocks. High in iodine and vitamins, it is also used in a traditional recipe for cough syrup that Myrtle Allen still makes and that she swears by. You can buy carrageen in health food shops and online.

Vegetarian

Serves 4–6

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Ready in 2½ hours

7g (¼oz) or 1 fistful carrageen (Irish moss) (don’t use too much or the pudding will be too firm and strong in flavour)

900ml (1½ pints) milk

50g (2oz) caster sugar

1 egg, separated

1 tsp vanilla extract

100ml (3½fl oz) water

225g (8oz) granulated sugar

450g (1lb) rhubarb, stalks trimmed and cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks

Soak the carrageen in lukewarm water for 10 minutes, then drain and combine in a saucepan with the milk. Bring to a boil, then simmer over very low heat for 20 minutes.

Pour the milk through a sieve into a bowl. The carrageen will now be swollen and resembling a jellyfish, so push the jelly through the sieve into the milk. Discard the remaining carrageen. Whisk in the caster sugar, egg yolk and vanilla.

Whisk the egg white until stiff and gently stir it into the milk; it will rise to give the pudding a light, fluffy top. Pour into one large bowl or evenly distribute into individual cups or glasses. Cover and place in the fridge for 1–2 hours to set.

To poach the rhubarb, combine the water and granulated sugar in a saucepan, stir and bring to a boil. Add the rhubarb, cover, bring to a boil and simmer for exactly 1 minute. Turn off the heat and allow the rhubarb to remain in the covered saucepan until almost cool. Transfer to a bowl to finish cooling.

Serve the rhubarb on top of or on the side of the carrageen pudding.

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Porter cake

This traditional Irish cake uses a porter, such as Guinness, Beamish or Murphy’s, and is a deliciously rich and moist fruit cake. Make it a few days in advance of the celebratory event (it’s perfect for St. Patrick’s Day) if you wish, and it will improve even more!

Vegetarian

Serves 10–12

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 2 hours

Ready in 3 hours

450g (1lb) plain flour

1 tsp grated or ground nutmeg

1 tsp mixed spice

1 tsp baking powder

Pinch of salt

225g (8oz) butter

225g (8oz) light brown sugar

450g (1lb) sultanas or raisins or a mixture of both

75g (3oz) chopped candied peel, shop-bought or homemade

2 eggs

1 × 330ml (12oz) bottle porter or stout

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Line the sides and bottom of a 20cm (8in) high-sided round cake tin (the sides should be about 7cm/2¾in high) with greaseproof paper.

Sift the flour, nutmeg, spice, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Rub in the butter, then stir in the brown sugar, sultanas and candied peel.

Whisk the eggs in another bowl and add the porter. Pour into the dry ingredients and mix well. Pour into the prepared tin.

Bake for about 2 hours. If the cake starts to brown too quickly on top, cover it with foil or greaseproof paper after about 1 hour. The cake is done when a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Allow the cake to sit in the tin for about 20 minutes before turning it out and leaving it to cool on a wire rack.

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Christmas pudding with whiskey cream

When I was growing up, our Christmas pudding would vary a little each year. My mum didn’t use exact quantities of anything, and I liked that each year was different. I’m like that myself, adding a little more or less of some ingredients some of the times. I love the not-so-traditional cranberries in this recipe, which give the pudding a delightfully zingy flavour.

Vegetarian

Serves 8–12

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Cooking time: 3 hours

Ready in 5 hours

100g (3½oz) raisins

100g (3½oz) sultanas

100g (3½oz) dried cranberries

100g (3½oz) candied peel, shop-bought or homemade, chopped

100g (3½oz) currants

4 dates (pitted) (100g/3½oz), halved

100ml (3½fl oz) whiskey, plus extra for serving

100g (3½oz) ground almonds

2 cooking apples, such as Bramley or Granny Smith, grated (do not peel)

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

6 tbsp golden syrup

10 whole, blanched (skinned) almonds

200g (7oz) butter, chilled and grated

180g (6oz) soft dark brown sugar

4 eggs, beaten

230g (8oz) gluten-free flour or 250g (9oz) self-raising flour, sifted

½ tsp baking powder

¼ whole nutmeg, finely grated

½ tsp ground cinnamon

FOR THE WHISKEY ORANGE CREAM

100ml (3½fl oz) double cream

1–2 tbsp icing sugar, sifted

2 tbsp Irish whiskey

Finely grated zest of 1 small orange

In a saucepan, gently simmer the dried fruit in the whiskey for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and leave for at least 1 hour.

Mix the ground almonds, apples and lemon zest and juice together in a bowl.

Set out two (1 litre/1¾ pint) pudding basins or deep, heatproof bowls, preferably ceramic. Pour 3 tablespoons of golden syrup into each of the pudding basins and arrange 5 almonds and a few pieces of soaked fruit decoratively in the golden syrup.

Using a wooden or metal spoon, mix the grated butter, brown sugar and eggs together in a large bowl. Add the flour, baking powder, nutmeg and cinnamon and mix together thoroughly. Spoon into the pudding basins and flatten out. Gently bang the bowls on the work surface to release any air bubbles.

Cut two rounds of parchment paper to fit neatly over the top of each, then cut out two more rounds about 5mm (¼in) wider than the rim of the basin. Place them over the basins and tie with a long piece of string under the lip of the bowl and over the top again. Tie at the other side to make a handle.

Place each basin in a large saucepan and carefully pour hot water around them to come three-quarters of the way up the sides. Cover and steam for 3 hours, keeping the water in the saucepan topped up all the time.

Remove the basins from the water and allow to cool. Remove the top paper lid and cover with a new one. Store in a cool place.

Reheat by steaming for 1 hour in the same way as above. Meanwhile, make the whiskey orange cream. Whip the cream until just stiff and fold in the icing sugar, whiskey and orange zest.

To serve, turn the puddings out onto a large plate. Pour a little whiskey over and ignite. Serve with the whiskey orange cream.

Candied peel

You can use the mixture of fruit suggested here, or just fifteen of the same fruit.

Vegetarian

Makes about 1.1 litres (1¾ pints)

Preparation time: 30 minutes plus 24 hours soaking

Cooking time: 4 hours plus 30 minutes cooling

5 oranges

5 lemons

5 grapefruit

1 tsp salt

1.25kg (3lb) caster or granulated sugar

Cut the fruit in half and squeeze out the juice. (Reserve the juice for another use, perhaps homemade lemonade.) Put the peel into a large bowl, add the salt and cover with cold water. Leave to soak for 24 hours.

Next day, throw away the soaking water, put the peel in a large saucepan and cover with fresh cold water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer very gently for about 3 hours, or until the peel is soft. It should mash between the tips of your fingers easily when it is cooked. Remove the peel from the pan and discard the water. Scrape out any remaining flesh and membrane from inside the cut fruit, using a teaspoon, leaving the white pith and rind intact.

In a clean large saucepan, dissolve the sugar in 1 litre (1¾ pints) of water, then bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the peel and simmer gently for 30–60 minutes until it looks shiny and translucent (‘candied’) and the syrup forms a thread when the last drop falls off a metal spoon. Remove from the heat and allow to stand for 20–30 minutes to cool slightly.

Put the candied peel into sterilised glass jars and pour the syrup over. Cover and store in a cold place or in the fridge. It should keep, stored like this, for at least 3 months. You can chop or slice the candied peel as you need it.

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St. Stephen’s Day muffins

What better way to use up any bits of leftover Christmas pudding than with these festive and delicious muffins? They are divine with a cup of coffee or tea and can be frozen.

Vegetarian

Makes 6 muffins

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Ready in 1 hour

1 egg

6 tbsp milk

25g (1oz) butter, melted

2 tbsp sherry, Irish whiskey or brandy

125g (4½oz) leftover Christmas Pudding, broken into lumps

125g (4½oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp mixed spice

75g (3oz) caster sugar

Icing sugar, for dusting

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Line a 12-hole muffin tin or 24-hole mini muffin tin with paper cases.

Whisk the egg in a bowl, then add the milk, melted butter, sherry and the pieces of Christmas pudding.

Sift the flour, baking powder and mixed spice into another bowl. Add the caster sugar and mix well. Make a well in the centre, add the wet ingredients and mix together until a soft, lumpy batter forms.

Spoon the mixture into the paper cases and bake for 20–25 minutes, until the muffins feel springy to the touch.

Allow to cool in the tin for a few minutes, then remove from the tin and place on a wire rack to cool completely. Dust with icing sugar to serve.

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Irish coffee meringue roulade

This Irish coffee roulade is quite a grown-up dessert. It’s decidedly wintery and I like to make it when there’s not much fresh fruit around. Of course, we know just how well whiskey and coffee go together, and this dish is perfect served with small Irish Coffees.

Vegetarian

Serves 6–8

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 25–30 minutes

Ready in 2 hours

A little vegetable oil, for greasing

4 egg whites

225g (8oz) caster sugar

1 tbsp instant coffee powder

FOR THE FILLING

425ml (15fl oz) whipping cream

1 tsp instant coffee powder

1 tbsp sifted icing sugar, plus extra for dusting

2 tbsp Irish whiskey

Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Line a 23 × 33cm (9 × 13in) Swiss roll tin with foil, folding the sides up to make a frame 4cm (1½in) high and squeezing the corners together. Brush lightly with vegetable oil.

Put the egg whites in the spotlessly clean bowl (stainless steel is best) of an electric food mixer (or use a hand-held electric beater) and whisk until soft peaks form.

Add the sugar all in one go (but if using a hand-held beater, add the sugar in stages) and whisk at full speed for 4–5 minutes, until stiff peaks form. Using a large metal spoon, fold in the instant coffee firmly and quickly. Spoon the meringue into the prepared tin and smooth with a spatula.

Bake for 15–20 minutes, until faintly browned and firm to the touch.

Allow the meringue to cool for a few minutes, then turn out onto a sheet of foil (slightly bigger than the roulade), carefully turning it upside down onto the sheet and gently removing the foil on the bottom. Allow to cool completely.

To make the filling, whip the cream until it forms soft peaks, then fold in the instant coffee, icing sugar and whiskey. Spread the coffee cream over the meringue, leaving the long edge nearest to you free of cream for about 4cm (1½in).

Holding the foil closest to you, roll up the roulade away from you and leave it in the foil until you are ready to serve (it will hold neatly here for a couple of hours in the fridge).

When ready to serve, unwrap the roulade and gently push it onto a serving dish using a spatula. Dust with icing sugar and serve immediately.

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Irish coffee cups

Warm coffee cakes served in teacups with a whiskey sauce and whipped cream, these make a smart and playful dessert, perfect for a dinner party, because both the cakes and sauce can be made ahead of time. The cakes are better if made on the same day, but the sauce can be made up to a couple of days ahead. Reheat the sauce in a saucepan and reheat the cakes in the oven (preheated to 130°C/250°F/Gas Mark ½) for 10 minutes or just until warmed through. Serve with Irish Coffee.

Vegetarian

Serves 4

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 25–30 minutes

Ready in 2 hours

125g (4½oz) butter, softened

125g (4½oz) soft light brown sugar

2 eggs

1 tbsp coffee essence (ideally Camp or Irel brand)

125g (4½oz) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

150ml (5fl oz) double or whipping cream, softly whipped, to serve

FOR THE SAUCE

125g (4½oz) caster sugar

6 tbsp water

150ml (5fl oz) double or whipping cream

4 tbsp Irish whiskey

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 and butter the insides of four small ovenproof teacups or four 6cm (2½in) diameter ramekins, if you intend to tip the cakes out of them for serving.

Cream the butter until soft in a large bowl or with an electric food mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the brown sugar and beat until the mixture is light and fluffy.

Whisk the eggs with the coffee essence in a small bowl for just a few seconds until mixed, then gradually add to the creamed butter mixture, beating all the time. Sift in the flour and baking powder and fold in gently to combine.

Divide the mixture among the teacups or ramekins and place these in a deep-sided ovenproof dish or roasting tin. Pour boiling water into the dish so it comes to halfway up the sides of the cups.

Bake for 25–30 minutes, until the centre of each cake is springy to the touch.

While the cakes are baking, make the sauce. Combine the caster sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar as the mixture heats up. Turn the heat up to high and continue to boil, but without stirring, until the syrup becomes a deep golden caramel colour. Cook the sauce just to the point when it starts smoking. (If it’s not cooked enough you won’t get a strong enough caramel flavour, but if overcooked it will taste slightly bitter.) You may need to swirl the pan, rather than stirring the mixture, toward the end of caramelising to ensure it cooks evenly.

Turn down the heat and immediately stir in the cream and whiskey, taking care as it may bubble and spit; then set aside. You may need to whisk it for a few seconds over low heat to help the caramel dissolve into the cream and whiskey.

When the cakes are done, remove from the oven and allow to cool for a couple of minutes. Place on saucers or serving plates, or tip them out onto warm plates if you prefer. To serve, pour a tablespoon of the warm whiskey sauce over each, then top that with a spoonful of softly whipped cream.

Irish coffee

Irish coffee was invented by Joe Sheridan at what was then Shannon Airport in 1942. The story goes that on a particularly stormy evening, one plane was lucky to land, and Joe Sheridan, the chef at the airport’s restaurant, wanted to make a drink to warm them through. He added Irish whiskey to a sweetened coffee with cream. One of the passengers asked if they were drinking Brazilian coffee, and Joe replied that it was Irish coffee. The drink is now universally popular and still served all over Ireland.

The trick with Irish coffee is that there must be enough sugar in the coffee to support the weight of the cream. If there’s not enough sugar, the cream sinks to the bottom. The cream shouldn’t hold a stiff peak, but should hold a very soft peak.

Vegetarian

Serves 1

Preparation time: 5 minutes

35ml (1¼fl oz) Irish whiskey (Paddy’s, Powers or Jameson)

1½ tsp brown sugar

Hot coffee

Softly whipped cream

Pour the whiskey into a cup and stir in the brown sugar. Top up with coffee, leaving a space of 1cm (½in) from the rim of the cup to the top of the coffee, and stir to dissolve the sugar. Dip a spoon into hot or boiling water, then use that spoon to add the cream to the coffee – it will slide gently off the spoon.

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Little hot after-dinner shots

Merrilees Parker, a wonderful British cook, made something similar to this when I appeared with her on the television show Great Food Live. I like to serve this after a winter dinner party. It is nicely luxurious – a little like Irish coffee, only without the coffee!

Vegetarian

Serves 8

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 3 minutes

200ml (7fl oz) brandy or whiskey

200ml (7fl oz) Stock Syrup

8 tbsp softly whipped cream

Pour the brandy and syrup into a saucepan and heat very gently; do not boil. Divide among eight little glasses. Dip a spoon into boiling water and use to spoon on the cream, allowing it to slide off the spoon and sit on top of the sweet brandy or whiskey. The cream should not sink. Serve immediately.

Stock syrup

This basic sugar syrup has many uses, including sweetening cocktails and poaching fruit. It keeps indefinitely, and it is very handy to have some on hand.

Vegetarian

Makes 150ml (5fl oz)

Preparation time: 5 minutes

200g (7oz) caster or granulated sugar

200ml (7fl oz) water

Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and bring slowly to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When the sugar has dissolved, boil for 2 minutes and allow to cool.

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Steamed ginger treacle pudding

This pudding is really just a hug in a bowl. The glorious steamed pudding is made perfectly sweet with the toffeelike flavour of treacle and the gentle heat of ginger. You can buy stem ginger in syrup online if you can’t find it elsewhere. Alternatively, you can use crystallised ginger in the cake batter and then golden syrup in place of the ginger syrup in the treacle mix.

Vegetarian

Serves 6

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 1½ hours

Ready in 2 hours

125g (4½oz) butter, diced and softened, plus extra for greasing

4 tbsp black treacle

4 tbsp ginger syrup (from the stem ginger jar)

110g (4oz) soft light brown sugar

2 eggs

150g (5oz) self-raising flour, sifted

2 tbsp milk

75g (3oz) stem ginger, very finely chopped

Ice cream, softly whipped cream or Custard, to serve

Butter a 1 litre (1¾ pint) pudding basin or deep, heatproof bowl, preferably ceramic. Mix the treacle and the ginger syrup together and pour into the bottom of the basin.

Cream the butter and brown sugar together by hand or with an electric food mixer fitted with the paddle attachment until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Fold in the flour and add in the milk. Stir in the stem ginger and spoon the mixture into the pudding basin to fill it two-thirds of the way up, smoothing the top with the back of the spoon. (The treacle will come up the inside of the basin, so be careful not to mix it into the cake mixture.)

Butter a piece of greaseproof paper and fold a pleat across the centre. Cover the basin with the paper, butter side down, and secure with string under the lip of the basin. Place in a steamer with a tight-fitting lid and simmer over low heat for 1¼–1½ hours, until the top of the pudding is firm to the touch and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Remember to top up the water in the steamer, if necessary.

Alternatively, if you don’t have a steamer, sit the pudding basin on an upturned saucer in the bottom of a large saucepan. Pour enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the basin and cover with a tight-fitting lid, then cook for the same length of time. Again, remember to keep the water topped up all the time.

Remove the pudding basin from the steamer, carefully loosen the pudding by running a spatula around the inside of the basin and invert onto a warm serving plate (one that is wider than the top of the basin). The treacle sauce will ooze down the sides of the pudding. Spoon over any sauce remaining in the basin and serve with ice cream, whipped cream or custard.

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Dark sticky gingerbread

This classic teatime cake can be served warm with cream as a dessert or sliced and buttered at any time. The flavour is quite intense, and it’s the kind of treat that is immensely satisfying. It stays deliciously moist and has a lovely mixture of different spices so will keep very well. Divine with a cup of coffee.

Vegetarian

Makes 1 loaf

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 55 minutes

Ready in 1 hour 40 minutes

60g (2½oz) butter

75g (3oz) golden syrup

50g (2oz) molasses or black treacle

110g (4oz) plain flour

25g (1oz) self-raising flour

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 heaped tsp ground ginger

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

100g (3½oz) caster sugar

Pinch of salt

120ml (4½fl oz) milk

1 egg, beaten

50g (2oz) crystallised ginger, finely chopped

FOR THE SYRUP

80g (3oz) caster or granulated sugar

80ml (3fl oz) water

1 tsp finely grated fresh ginger

FOR THE TOPPING (OPTIONAL)

200g (7oz) icing sugar, sifted

Juice of ½ lemon

Preheat the oven to 170ºC/325°F/Gas Mark 3. Line a 13 × 23cm (5 × 9in) loaf tin with parchment paper.

Melt the butter, golden syrup and molasses in a small saucepan over low heat. Set aside.

Sift the flours, bicarbonate of soda, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and pepper into a large bowl. Stir in the sugar and salt. Add the milk and egg and mix until smooth. Gradually add the melted butter mixture, stirring until well incorporated. Fold in the chopped crystallised ginger. The mixture will be runny. Pour into the prepared loaf tin.

Bake for 50–55 minutes, until risen and firm to the touch, and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Do not open the oven to test before the bread has baked for at least 45 minutes.

After the gingerbread has been baking for about 40 minutes, make the syrup. Combine the sugar, water and grated ginger in a small saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes. When the gingerbread is done, remove from the oven and prick all over with a fine skewer. Pour over the hot syrup, then place the loaf tin on a wire rack to cool for 20 minutes. Remove the cake from the tin and place on a wire rack to cool completely.

To make the topping, mix together the icing sugar and lemon juice in a small bowl until thick and smooth. Spread carefully over the top of the cake with a spatula or a table knife, allowing some icing to drip over the edges.

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Brown bread ice cream

It may seem strange, but this Victorian invention is a divine ice cream. It’s a wonderful way of using our great Irish bread, whether it’s brown soda bread or brown yeast bread. The crumbs are mixed with sugar and caramelised in the oven. The deeply flavoured sweet nuggets are then stirred into the rich ice cream. This is perfect on its own or with a butterscotch, caramel or chocolate sauce.

This recipe is particularly useful as it doesn’t require an ice cream machine; you simply stir the cream into an Italian meringue, then freeze it overnight. The ice cream it makes is very light and doesn’t need to soften before scooping.

Vegetarian

Serves 6–8

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Ready in 12 hours

100g (3½oz) chopped Brown Soda Bread or Brown Yeast Bread

50g (2oz) soft brown sugar

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

150ml (5fl oz) double or whipping cream

2 eggs, separated

1 tbsp rum (optional)

125g (4½oz) granulated sugar

100ml (3½fl oz) water

Pinch of cream of tartar

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.

Place the bread in a food processor and whiz for 30–60 seconds to form coarse breadcrumbs. Add the brown sugar and cinnamon and pulse for a few times just to mix. Spread out on a baking tray and toast in the oven for about 10 minutes, until well browned. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Whisk the cream until soft peaks appear, then mix in the egg yolks and rum (if using) and set aside.

Combine the granulated sugar and water in a saucepan and heat slowly, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Boil fiercely for 5 minutes, until the syrup thickens and the last drops on a spoon dipped into it form a sort of thread. Meanwhile, using an electric whisk, whisk the egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff. Still whisking, gradually pour in the hot syrup in a thin stream and continue to whisk until the mixture is cool, glossy and stiff, 4–5 minutes. Add the whipped cream mixture along with the caramelised breadcrumbs and fold until mixed through.

Transfer the mixture to a container with a lid, cover and place in the freezer. Freeze overnight before serving.

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Dark chocolate sauce

Very quick to make, this hot chocolate sauce is the ultimate in sinfulness – perfect drizzled over any ice cream, especially the Brown Bread Ice Cream. Although it keeps in the fridge for several weeks, I challenge you to leave it there for that long.

Vegetarian

Makes 175ml (6fl oz)

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

75g (3oz) chopped dark chocolate

100ml (3½fl oz) double or whipping cream

Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl sitting over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Whisk in the cream to make a smooth sauce. Keep warm in the bowl until ready to serve.

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