How far to go is not only a matter of how many days you have, but also how far to walk each day. A good rule of thumb for this is to plan shorter days at the beginning, so that your body can adjust to the terrain and to carrying a pack for 6-8 hours a day. This lets you find your own rhythm and avoid early injuries. Once you are acclimated, you can add more kilometers a day or find your sweet spot. Some trekkers love taking their time to take in the natural beauty and the small churches and shrines along the way, and may prefer to average 12-18 kilometers (7.5-11 miles) a day. Others get their high from rushing it, and love to cover 25-35 kilometers (15.5-22 miles) a day. Most fall somewhere in between, and a good average is 21-25 kilometers (13-15.5 miles) per day.
Nothing ruins this trek like too much baggage. A good place to start is to make a list of everything that you think you will need, and then go through it item by item, questioning why you need each thing. If it serves anything other than actual use in the everyday trek, leave it at home. (The Camino’s support structure has had over a thousand years of anticipating pilgrims’ needs, and you can find anything you need in an unplanned circumstance, or even things that you use each day and need to replace, from band aids to batteries.) A good rule of thumb is to carry no more than 10-15 percent of your body weight. You should anticipate carrying 2-3 pounds of water and food each day, so be sure your pack’s final weight is 2-3 pounds under the mark.
The three most important items are:
• Trekking shoes, such as light hiking shoes or sturdy cross trainers, that you’ve broken in and that fit you perfectly. Hefty hiking boots are usually overkill on the Camino, unless you need the extra support. Some peregrinos even hike in running shoes. Find the shoe that fits your body, and do not let anyone else, even well-meaning trekking store clerks, tell you what feels right. Do not buy new shoes the week before you leave; this almost always creates problems, from blisters to more serious foot and leg problems.
• Socks designed for blister prevention (double-layered, seamless, not 100% wool or cotton). Wright Socks are a good brand. From spring to autumn, I like ankle-length socks. A nice trick for layering warmth is to take a pair of woolen, knee-length socks whose toes and heels are shot, and cut them off at the ankle to create a pair of leggings you can slip on, as needed for added warmth. A perk is that these won’t need to be washed as often as socks.
• Pack: Choose a light, moderate-sized (30-40 liter/1,830-2,440 cubic inches) pack that fits your torso, hips, and shoulders well.
Also bring a small first-aid kit. You can purchase travel-size first-aid kits from trekking stores, and add your own ingredients to augment them. I have used ibuprofen and arnica gel the most, and always outfit my kit to include these. You should not need to carry a lot for blisters if you take measures to prevent them. Plus, almost every place on the Camino stocks up on blister aids such as Moleskin and Compeed, as well as arnica and ibuprofen.
There are no areas on the Camino where the altitude is so high that you’d need to acclimate, but it’s still important to prepare for the trek. There are a lot of opinions about how to train, but the truth is that any form of training will set you ahead physically and psychologically once you reach the Camino. Do what you can and commit to it. The most basic program involves a weekly routine of walking, stretching/yoga, and once or twice a week, a full hike (over 8 miles) with your backpack at full weight. (Walking with your pack will also help you decide if you really need all the things in there.) Try to begin this regime a minimum of two months (six months is ideal) before you depart. Even if all you can do is 2-3 miles a day and stretching daily, plus a few 8-mile test treks with pack, that will set you well ahead.
No visa, only a passport, for France or Spain is required for members of the European Union and in the Schengen zone. Citizens of the United Kingdom, post-Brexit (so far), can still visit Europe without a visa, but should double-check as this law could change.
Visitors to Spain and France for 90 days and less from Canada, the USA, Australia, New Zealand, and almost all of Central and South America (with some exceptions) also do not need a visa, only a valid passport. Most citizens of Asia and Africa, including South Africans, in addition to a valid passport, will need to apply for a Schengen short-stay visa, which will allow for a stay of up to 90 days (or a long-stay visa that will allow a visit of more than 90 days); you will also be asked to show proof that you have enough funds to support you while in Europe (usually, a current bank statement will suffice), and that you are covered with travel insurance.
For everyone outside of the EU, it is always wise to double-check with the Spanish Embassy in your country as well as your own country’s state department, and also to visit the European Union’s official website (www.ec-europa.eu/commission/index_en) to learn the current requirements.
Check with your health insurance carrier to see if they cover expenses abroad. If they do not, there are many inexpensive options. One of the most common and respected is through Allianz (www.allianztravelinsurance.com); this is sometimes even offered as part of the purchase price of your airline ticket, and may be less than $50. Another reputable company is World Nomads (www.worldnomads.com).
Of the more than 200,000 people on the Camino Francés each year, about 25% start walking from Sarria, by far the most popular starting point. Travelers beginning in Sarria are usually motivated by the confluence of several things, including limited time and a desire to gain a taste of the Camino experience, but the main reason is the desire also to collect a Compostela.
The next most popular starting points are Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (12%), León (4%), O Cebreiro (4%), Ponferrada (3%), and Roncesvalles (3%). But many entry points, such as Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, and Astorga, are accessible via the same networks of buses and trains—so start where you want, given your time, inclination, and desired experience.
The most common international entry points to reach the Camino are Paris (CDG), Madrid (MAD), and Barcelona (BCN), which are well connected to Camino destinations via both bus and train. From these airports, you can also get connecting flights to the following regional airports (the first three are nearest the eastern end of the Camino; the latter two are nearest the west end):
Light pack (40L/2,440 cu in or less) that fits your body well.
Water bottle(s) that can carry a minimum of 1.5 liters (1 half-gallon). I prefer two lightweight stainless steel bottles to camelback water reserves, because they are easier to clean thoroughly and don’t taste of plastic.
Trekking shoes, such as light hiking shoes or sturdy cross-trainers.
One (1) pair of after-trekking shoes that can double as slippers in albergues and about-town shoes for dinner. Flip-flops or Tevas can be good for the shower.
Three (3) pairs of double-layer socks, so that you have one clean, dry pair at all times, in case it rains or you step in a puddle.
Two (2) pairs of quick-dry hiking pants, one that can be rolled up to serve as shorts or capris.
Two to three (2-3) tee-shirts (1-2 short-sleeve and 1-2 long-sleeve, depending on season). I prefer cotton to moisture-wicking fabrics, which stink after a few days, even after being washed.
One (1) lightweight sweater or fleece: a cashmere sweater is as light and practical as fleece, layers well for lightness and warmth with t-shirts and a rain jacket, gets smelly less frequently, and looks elegant in the evening.
One (1) rain poncho that can double as a picnic blanket or seat.
Three (3) pairs of quick-drying underwear
Two (2) bras for women, ideally comfortable sports-style bras.
Sun hat (for spring to fall).
Warm cap and gloves (winter).
Sunglasses.
Sunscreen.
First aid kit.
If you’ll be sleeping in albergues (rather than hostels, rural inns, or hotels), you’ll also need:
A lightweight sleeping bag, gauged to the season you are walking, and/or a sleeping-bag sheet as an extra layer for winter nights (and as the sole sleeping gear for summer nights). I have a 20-ounce three-season sleeping bag, and when I use a sleeping sheet, I use one treated with permethrin as an added barrier against bedbugs. (Prolonged use of permethrin is not advised.)
A traveler’s towel or a cotton bandana that doubles as towel and headgear, preferably one that dries quickly.
A small dry sack (ultra-light, such as Sea To Summit’s 2-liter sack) for your valuables (passport, wallet, phone, camera) to take with you to the shower in albergues that lack lockers.
A head lamp in case you need to go downstairs at night to get to the bathroom.
A lightweight cotton scarf for warmth, sun protection, coverage when you get out of the shower, or to use as a sheet over an albergue bunk bed. This can also serve to cover bare shoulders when entering a church.
A rain jacket that also doubles as an extra layer for wind or added warmth.
A light but warm jacket if you are walking in winter.
Ultra-light dry sack the size of your pack (such as Sea to Summit’s 35-liter sack) to line the inside of your pack, which will assure it stays dry in hefty rain. It also serves double-duty as a pillow when stuffed with clothes, as a laundry bag, and as an outer-pack shell (if you have to check your pack on an airline) to protect the straps from tear.
A compass. Consider jettisoning all modern tech (it will lighten your load) and learn to use an old-fashioned, lightweight compass. Hook it onto your pack and feel very much the explorer.
A guidebook with maps (such as this one).
A journal and pen.
A camera with extra memory cards (available on the trail but sometimes hard to find).
A smartphone, or a simple flip phone for emergencies. (You can buy a simple phone for very little in Spain and top up minutes as you go.)
• Bilbao (BIO), served by Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com), Iberia (www.iberia.com), Air France (www.airfrance.com), and Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com), among others
• Pamplona (PNA), served by Air Nostrum (www.airnostrum.com)
• Biarritz (BIQ), served by Ryan Air (www.ryanair.com) and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com)—the nearest airport to the eastern end of the Camino
• A Coruña (LCG), served by Air Europa (www.aireuropa.com), Air Nostrum (www.airnostrum.com), Gestair (www.gestair.com), Iberia (www.iberia.com), TAP (www.flytap.com), and Vueling (www.vueling.com)
• Santiago de Compostela (SCQ), served by Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com), Air Europa (www.aireuropa.com), Air Nostrum (www.airnostrum.com), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com), Gestair (www.gestair.com), Iberia (www.iberia.com), Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com), Ryan Air (www.ryanair.com), and Vueling (www.vueling.com)
To reach Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Roncesvalles: The nearest airports are Biarritz, Bilbao, and Pamplona. From any of these, you can take an Express Bourricot shuttle to either Saint-Jean (1-2 hours) or Roncesvalles (1-2.5 hours). It’s also possible to reach Roncesvalles and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port from Pamplona via ALSA bus (1-2 hours).
To reach León: The nearest airports are Santiago de Compostela or Oviedo. You can catch a train to León from either Santiago de Compostela (4.5-6.5 hours) or Oviedo (3 hours). The Madrid airport also has direct bus (6 hours) and train (4.5 hours) connections to León.
To reach Ponferrada: The nearest airport is Santiago de Compostela, where you can catch a train (4 hours) or a bus (4 hours) to Ponferrada. From the Madrid airport there are buses (5 hours) to Ponferrada.
To reach O Cebreiro: The nearest airport is Santiago de Compostela, where you can catch a bus (3.5 hours) to Pedrafita do Cebreiro. From the Madrid airport there is a bus (6 hours) to Pedrafita do Cebreiro. From Pedrafita, you can catch a cab for the remaining 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) to O Cebreiro.
To reach Sarría: The nearest airport is Santiago de Compostela. From Santiago de Compostela, you can catch a train (2 hours) or a bus (3 hours) to Sarria. From Madrid a train, via a train change in Ourense, goes to Sarria (8 hours).
Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) lets you purchase one ticket for travel from London to Bayonne (five trains daily; 8 hours; £270/€302) with one train change in Paris. You depart London St Pancras Station and arrive in Paris Gare du Nord, where you will need to catch Métro line 4 to Paris Montparnasse station for a train to Bayonne. With a separate ticket from SNCF (www.oui.sncf), take the regional train from Bayonne to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (1.5 hours; €11).
France’s rail company, SCNF (www.oui.sncf), connects trains from Paris to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (8 hours; €124-200) with a change in Bordeaux and Bayonne.
Spain’s national rail, RENFE (www.renfe.com), has a line that runs the length of the Camino, operating from Irún, at the Pyrenees, and stopping in Burgos (€25-38), Sahagún (€32), León (€35), Astorga (€40), Ponferrada (€40), and Santiago de Compostela (€48). RENFE trains also connect Barcelona and Madrid to a number of Camino destinations, including Pamplona (direct: 4.5 hours from Barcelona, €36-67; 3-4 hours from Madrid, €24-65), Logroño (4 hours from Madrid, €30-62; and 5 hours from Barcelona, €36-70; both change trains in Zaragoza), Burgos (direct: 6.5-8 hours from Barcelona, €42-100; 2.5-4.5 hours from Madrid, €21-36), and Sarria (13 hours from Barcelona, some are direct, €41-95; and 10 hours from Madrid, €30-55, all trains to Sarria change in Ourense).
Purchase tickets online to assure the best price (though do note that the RENFE site in particular can be finicky). You can also buy your ticket (including all connections) at your first train station/entry point in France (at a SNCF station) or Spain (at a RENFE station). If purchasing in the station, I prefer to purchase from the ticket vendor rather than the vending machine. That way, if there is any issue with the credit or debit card, the ticket seller can enter the number manually and confirm the purchase. The ticket-vending machines are hit or miss at times, for reasons that seem to stymie even the SNCF and RENFE employees.
Though air is by far the most efficient way, economically and time-wise, to arrive in France or Spain from London (followed by train), Euroline (www.eurolines.eu) runs buses from London to Bayonne (3-10 buses daily, 24 hours, €45-100), Bilbao (2-8 daily, 26 hours, €90-160), Pamplona (three buses every Fri. only, 30 hours, €77-200), and Burgos (3-6 buses on four days of the week, which can vary each week, 36 hours, €115-170). The dramatic range in prices is based on many factors—the day of the week, which bus you reserve, if there is a festival or holiday—but tend to be highest during the peak summer months (July and Aug.).
The bus company, ALSA (www.alsa.com), connects just about all starting points on the Camino with Madrid and Barcelona, and nearly all destinations on the Camino to each other, including Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, Sahagún, León, Astorga, Ponferrada, and near O Cebreiro at Pedrafita do Cebreiro.
ALSA also runs buses from Biarritz’s airport to Pamplona, from Barcelona to Pamplona, and from Pamplona to Roncesvalles and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. They also run direct lines from Madrid’s Barajas airport to Pamplona, Burgos, and León. To reach Sarria by bus, Monbus (www.monbus.com) is the most direct route from Santiago de Compostela. More regional bus companies reach smaller towns and hamlets on the Camino not served by ALSA; these smaller companies are listed in their respective destination chapters.
Brittany Ferries operates four routes to Spain from Ireland (www.brittanyferries.ie) and the UK (www.brittany-ferries.co.uk):
An overnight sail from Cork, Ireland leaves for Santander, Spain (33.5 hours), which is 3 hours from Pamplona. Other routes depart Portsmouth, England for Santander (24 hours) and Bilbao (28 hours), which is 1.5 hours from Logroño and 2 hours from Pamplona. The fourth route connects Plymouth, England, to Santander (19.5 hours).
Each route runs one ferry per week. Ferries can range in price, €99-510, depending on season and whether you embark on foot or with a car. Prices go up the nearer the departure date, so it is worth inquiring well in advance.
Taxis can be a valid option for getting from a gateway airport to your starting place if the shuttle and bus schedules do not align with your plans. You usually can find other pilgrims to share a taxi with you, bringing the cost down significantly. Taxis in Spain typically charge a little over €1 per kilometer, so a 15-kilometer (9.3-mile) ride will be around €20 and a 30-kilometer (18.6-mile) ride around €35.
On the Camino, from stopping point to stopping point, taxis are readily available and you can ask at the local café-bar, albergue, or hotel to call you a taxi. Drivers do not expect a tip, but if you give a euro or two for good service, they’ll be elated.
The Camino’s towns and cities are accessible by major highways from Madrid, Santander, Bilbao, and Barcelona.
All the major international car-rental companies have offices in the major cities and larger towns (Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao, Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, León, Ponferrada, and Santiago de Compostela) that connect to the Camino, including Europcar (www.europcar.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com), Avis (www.avis.com), Enterprise (www.enterprise.com), Thrifty (www.thrifty.com), and Dollar (www.dollar.com).
Some agencies may set a minimum age to rent, around 21 or 23 years old, and most will add on an extra surcharge for young drivers (typically under 25). In France, the young driver supplement may be as much as €30-40 per day on top of the rental price, and in Spain around €20 per day in addition to the rental fee. There are no official maximum age limits to drive or rent a car in France and Spain but some agencies may set an upper limit to 70, 75, or 80 years of age, or may want to see that your license was renewed within the last five years. Be sure to inquire ahead of time with the rental company.
You must be 18 years old to drive in France and Spain. You must have your passport and a valid driver’s license to rent a car and drive legally in France and Spain. The information for those coming from outside Europe about whether you also need an International Driving Permit (IDP) is confusing and often states that you do not need one to drive in France or Spain. In both countries, officially, you are expected to have an IDP to accompany your valid driver’s license from home. An IDP is not a license but a translation of your current license into an international form that is recognized around the world. You can apply for one via the officially recognized national auto club that is allowed to issue these, such as the American Automobile Association (www.aaa.com) in the USA, and the Canadian Automobile Association (www.caa.ca) in Canada. You will still need to carry your driver’s license with you.
Both France and Spain are stringent about drinking and driving, and there are frequent patrols that may stop drivers for random roadside breathalyzer tests. Both France and Spain hold legal blood-alcohol levels at a maximum of 0.5mg/ml, which is lower than in the UK and USA. One glass of wine or a beer will typically take your blood level to between 0.2-0.3mg/ml. It’s best not to drink until after you reach the destination where you plan to spend the night, and therefore won’t be driving any more that day.
About 20 percent of Spain’s roads have tolls, and on most large highways you will have occasional toll stops (these can range from €5-25, depending on your entry and exit point). The smaller, scenic roads near the Camino are toll-free. The same holds for driving in southwestern France.
The speed limit in both France and Spain is typically 110-130km/hour (68-80 mph) on large highways, 80km/hour (50 mph) on open roads in France, and 90km/hour (55 mph) on open roads in Spain, and 50km/hour (30 mph) in towns; but in some urban or village areas it can be 20-30km/hour (10-20 mph).
Driving the Camino is slightly longer than walking it, around 810 total kilometers (503 total miles) from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela and 920 kilometers (572 miles) total to the coast at Finisterre or Muxía. A minimum of two weeks is enough to cover the whole stretch, but three weeks is ideal, and will allow you to use the more scenic and smaller roads that parallel the Camino rather than the highway.
Driving does have its advantages. First, it allows you to time your arrival in towns, so you can stop for lunch and eat when the locals do, around 2pm, and then use the siesta hours, around 3-5pm, for rest and to drive to that night’s accommodations in time for the early evening when places open up again; you will be installed and ready to sightsee and enjoy the nightlife. As a driver, you will not have access to most albergues, but you will still be able to share the pilgrim experience by staying in the same towns and villages in rural hotels, hostales, and pensiones.
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is best reached via Bayonne and Biarritz. The best way to reach Roncesvalles is via Pamplona. Both towns are connected via the mountain road (D-933 in France and N-135 in Spain) over the Pyrenees. After Roncesvalles, driving along the N-135, which follows and parallels the Camino de Santiago, will take you all the way to Pamplona.
From Pamplona, the A-12 highway runs parallel to the Camino to Burgos and is called the Autovía del Camino de Santiago. It gives quick access to major hubs such as Pamplona, Estella, Logroño, and Burgos. But for a more leisurely and pretty driving, the smaller highway—N-1110/N-111A then N-120—also parallels the Camino. From Burgos, the N-120 continues to León and past to Astorga, where the LE-142 will next carry you near the trail to Ponferrada.
The LE-713 connects Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo, where it merges with the N-VI through La Portela de Valcarce and Vega de Calcarce to Herrerías. This reaches the base of the final ascent of the route, over O Cebreiro’s mountain, where the foot trail and the road part ways until O Cebreiro. The driving route is way-marked with blue signs with a yellow scallop shell to guide drivers along a parallel path to the trail. From O Cebreiro to Ventas, follow the LU-633; at Ventas the LU-633 gives way to the C-535 to Palas de Rei. From Palas de Rei to Santiago de Compostela, the road to follow is the N-547. Access is the same by car as by foot to all stopping points on the Camino when you follow these roads. Where these roads do not pass directly through destinations on the trail, there are marked, smaller access roads to reach the same settlements.
On average, some 92 percent do the Camino on foot. Some 7 percent cycle it, and the remaining 1 percent do it by horse, donkey, or wheelchair. For those on wheels, about half the Camino is on roads and about half on dirt paths that are also near paved roads, which cyclists are expected to take whenever possible—especially when the trail is narrow and rocky—to keep the foot trail safe for trekkers. Often the deviations for bikers are marked when the trail requires this added clarity.
To cycle the whole Camino takes on average two weeks, covering 50-80 kilometers (30-50 miles) per day. You can also combine walking with cycling, and some pilgrims enjoy renting a bike in Burgos to cross the meseta, returning it in León. Many places along the Camino, especially in the cities, offer bike rentals expressly for the Camino. Bicigrino (www.bicigrino.com; €40/day) offers pick-up and drop-off addresses in Burgos, Calzadilla de la Cueza, Sahagún, and León, as well as other start and stop points across the entire north. Velobur Bikes (www.velobur.es; €30-150/day depending on promotions) does pick-up and drop-off points from Burgos to León and points in between, and even a little farther past León.
With a bike, you can still stay in most albergues, but priority is given to walkers; at most, you’ll need to wait until 6pm to be given a bed. Such restrictions do not apply to other accommodations. Most lodging, albergues and others, have options for overnight bike storage.
The Camino is well marked for some 95 percent of its 900 kilometers/560 miles (including the stretch to Finisterre and Muxía), but constant vigilance is a good idea for staying on the trail. Most markers are either yellow arrows painted on signs, posts, walls, and rocks, or scallop shells made of ceramic, stone, or concrete, many posted on kilometer pillars along the path. In the Pyrenees, on the border with France and Spain, and into Navarra, horizontal red and white stripes painted on posts and signs also mark the way. You will also notice that pilgrims leave stones on the pillar way-markers, as well as on large boulders on the trailside, creating cairns. This is another way the Camino is unofficially marked, and it’s also a good way to check if you are still on the trail.
The terrain of the Camino is quite varied. More than half the time, it’s on dirt or rocky footpaths. Other times, it parallels a country lane, small road, or rural highway. On a few occasions, it is right on the bank of the road, and only very rarely right on it, but it is these times when you need to be especially cautious with oncoming traffic. A few times you may also need to cross a road, at which point you’ll need to muster extra caution. Many of the more treacherous parts of the Camino in recent years have had protective barriers installed, or have been rerouted.
A few sections of the Camino can readily be skipped, more because they are unpleasant urban walking than for any dangers. The worst of these are leaving Logroño, and entering and leaving León; in all cases, you can catch a bus for a few kilometers to skip these parts.
A pilgrim’s credential—credencial del peregrino in Spanish and carnet de pélerin in French—is also known as your passport. It’s an accordion-folded document slightly longer than a regular passport. A stamped credential is first and foremost a passport that lets you stay in albergues (and gives discounts in some museums), and also that documents where you began and where you’ve walked. But it also is necessary if you wish to earn a certificate of walking.
Credentials usually cost €2. You can pick up a credential at all the gateway cities and starting points, such as at the pilgrim’s welcome office in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Many albergues (especially the municipal ones, including those in Pamplona, Puente la Reina, Estella, Logroño, León, Ponferrada, and O Cebreiro) and churches and monasteries also have credentials (such as in Sarria, at the Iglesia de Santa Mariña and the Monasterio de la Magdalena). You can also get one mailed to you before departing from your national pilgrims’ association, such as the American Friends of the Camino (USA), Canadian Company of Pilgrims, Confraternity of Saint James (UK), Australian Friends of the Camino (Australia and New Zealand), and Confraternity of St. James South Africa.
You’ll get your credential stamped every day, usually at the place you stay, but almost every place along the Camino—including shops, cafés, and restaurants—has a stamp they enjoy sharing. Churches also often have a stamp that you will find as you enter. For some pilgrims, their stamped credential is the best souvenir of their walk. If you are walking all the way from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela, you will probably easily fill 2-3 passports before you are done. It’s fine to stamp other things, if you wish, such as in your journal, a map, or whatever other parchment you wish to use to create a document of your journey with these unique imprints.
The Compostela (the certificate of completing the pilgrimage) is a beautiful document in Latin, with your name and the date you arrived in Santiago de Compostela, and illuminated with medieval illustrations from the 12th-century Codex Calixtinus and the 15th-century Breviario de Miranda. The Compostela is issued by the church, which only considers the last 100 kilometers (62 miles) as qualifying for walkers (or the last 200 km/124 mi, if you cycled). You must present your credential in the pilgrim’s reception office in Santiago de Compostela, and be sure that it has two stamps per day, minimum, from Sarria forward (and two per day from Ponferrada if cycling); all stamps before Sarria (Ponferrada) do not matter for this certificate.
a pilgrim’s pack
the Compostela
the many forms of pilgrims’ credentials
While the Compostela is the most valued certificate, it is actually one of four other certificates that you can earn while walking the Camino, each one with its own quirky criteria. If you walk from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Sahagún (the Camino’s midway point) and collect one stamp per day, you can get a halfway certificate, a Carta Peregrina. Earn a Fisterana by walking from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre and collecting two stamps per day. You can earn a Muxiana in just a day by walking the challenging route from Finisterre to Muxía and collecting two stamps for that day, one in Finisterre and one in Lires. You can also earn a Muxiana for walking from Santiago de Compostela to Muxía, stamping your credential a minimum of twice per day.
Essentially, there are three types of accommodations on the Camino: pilgrim dorms called albergues; low-cost and budget inns called pensiones (many with shared bathrooms); and hostales (with private baths), traditional hotels, and casas rurales (all with private bathrooms).
Pilgrim dorms, called albergues, are the traditional pilgrims’ accommodations on the Camino. There are four types of albergues: municipal or xunta (municipal, run by the town or village); parroquia (parish, run by a religious organization); privado (private, run by private individuals and families); and asociación (run by nonprofit pilgrim associations, typically from different countries, and usually run by volunteers). Most open in the afternoon and stay open until about 10pm, which is lights out, when everyone is expected to be in bed and quiet. Some even lock the doors, so it is good to observe the curfew. Most have set prices but some albregues run on a donativo (donation) basis; try to leave at least €5 minimum if you can. Typically, municipal albergues are bare bones and the least expensive (€5-7). Next in price are those run by parishes and associations (€5-12), followed by private albergues (€10-15), which offer more creature comforts. Most albergue types offer an evening menú or communal meal (€10-12), and many also offer breakfast (€3-5).
If you stay in an albergue, you will be sleeping in a room with other people, at times as few as four, and at others, as many as 50 (but on average, around 8-15 people). Almost all the albergues are mixed-gender dorms, though a few have separate women’s and men’s sleeping quarters. Many, especially the private albergues, also have private rooms that cost two to three times more than a dorm bed (€20-40). Beds are almost all twin size, and most are bunk beds. Bathrooms vary: Some are gender mixed and others separate. Some have private shower stalls and others are open. (All have private toilets!) If you plan on staying in albergues, you’ll want to pack a light, small, quick-dry traveler’s towel and either a light sleeping bag or sleeping bag sheet, depending on the season. Consider bringing flip-flops to wear in the shower.
Albergues are only meant for those walking or cycling the Camino and who have a credential (but don’t sweat it: if you lose your credential, you can buy a new one and get it stamped at the albergue). Additionally, walkers get priority over cyclists. Many only allow cyclists to check in after 6pm, 3-4 hours after the albergue opened for walkers, and only if there are any beds left over.
Pensiones and hostales are usually small family-run hotels (€22-60), some including breakfast at extra cost (€4-6) and some with attached restaurants and cafés. Many pensiones offer homey private rooms with a shared bathroom. Hostales, not to be confused with hostels, almost always come with your own private bath. As a rule, almost all these establishments are clean and comfortable, with minimalist but pleasant decor.
Hoteles and casas rurales (rural bed and breakfasts) are at the higher range (€40-100+) and are the most plush options for pilgrims, with elegant rooms, cozy lounges, and many services and creature comforts for the asking (sometimes including laundry service, massage, and spa treatments). Hotels will always offer private rooms with an ensuite bath. Casas rurales are almost always private rooms with attached bath, but at times the private bath is across or down the hall, and very rarely, it might be shared with one other guest.
A special category of luxury hotels are the state-run paradores, historic former monasteries, mansions, or palaces that have been beautifully restored and converted into hotels. The Camino has a few, the most astounding being the Parador San Marcos in León. The other famous Camino parador is the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos, a repurposed 16th-century pilgrims’ hospital right next to the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
If you are staying in an upper-end hotel, it is customary to leave the cleaning staff a tip of around €1 for each day that you stay there.
A special network of hotels on the Camino, called Posadas del Camino (www.posadasdelcamino.com), have banded together and offer a 10% discount card after you’ve stayed in your first Posada hotel in the network. You can find the list on their website, which lists 21 participating hotels fairly evenly spread out across the Camino, starting from Hotel Akerreta in Akerreta (just after Zubiri in Navarra) to Hotel Capitol in Santiago de Compostela. Be sure to ask for the 10% discount card before departing from your first Posada hotel.
Generally speaking, cafes and bars are reasonably frequent on the Camino, appearing every few kilometers or so. You can eat there, or often you can ask for un bocadillo para llevar (a sandwich to go) and indicate if you want it to be a bocadillo de tortilla (egg omelet sandwich), de jamón (with ham), or de queso (cheese). Most bars will have these ingredients on hand and will make you a sandwich on the spot for around €3-5. One advantage of stopping at cafés rather than picnicking is that paying customers can use their bathroom facilities and also ask if they can fill your water bottle with water from the tap.
For long stretches (noted throughout this guide), you may want to pack a lunch and take a trailside break in the middle of the day. It’s smart to keep snacks such as nuts and dried fruit in your pack, along with plenty of water. There are many public fountains alongside the road, in town squares, and on the trail, but only the ones that are marked potable (drinkable) should be used to fill water bottles.
Spanish breakfast is light: typically toast or a croissant with coffee, though tea is also available. Many bars also make zumo de naranja natural (fresh-squeezed orange juice) to order. Heartier fare is available for pilgrims, and you almost always can get a pincho de tortilla (thick wedge of potato omelet) with fresh bread and whatever beverage you want. A pincho de tortilla, café con leche (espresso with steamed milk), and glass of fresh-squeezed OJ costs around €5.50 and can really fuel the morning well.
Most albergues offer breakfast, at extra cost (€3-5), where you can get toast, coffee, juices (from a carton or bottle), and sometimes yogurt, cheese, ham, fruit, and hardboiled eggs. With the many cafés on the Camino, you can also decide to get an early start from your albergue and break for breakfast along the way.
The menú del peregrino, “pilgrim’s menu” (€9-12), a basic three-course meal offered at local restaurants and albergues, evolved to meet the tastes of international eaters while still offering classic Spanish dishes at affordable prices. It’s typically served for dinner, and includes a starter dish (salad, pasta, soup), a main dish (grilled meat/fish/eggs and potatoes and vegetables, a substantial stew), a dessert (custard/flan, pudding, ice cream, fruit), bread, and water, and usually (but not always) wine, beer, or other beverage. Restaurants usually offer several choices for the three courses. The pilgrim’s menus at albergues are more family style, with just one offering for each course, and the latter tend to be more vegetarian friendly.
Pilgrim’s menus are fresh, almost always from local ingredients, but they are often economical and basic dishes that do not showcase the best cooking of a region. For that you may need to step outside the menú del peregrino option and pay a little more (€13-15) for either an a la carte offering or a slightly more upscale menú del día (daily menu, €13-18), geared toward working locals on their lunch break.
The Spanish in the north sit down to lunch around 2pm and dinner around 9pm. While they still rise early, they accommodate this schedule with the siesta hour, around 3pm until 5pm. In times past this was a challenge for peregrinos, but the Spanish in recent times have devised a way to cater to everyone’s needs, offering menús del peregrino earlier in the evening, around 6:30-7:30pm. After feeding hungry pilgrims, locals then cook their own dinner for their Spanish customers and their families.
Servers in France and Spain earn living wages so the practice of tipping is different. Along the Camino, tipping is not really expected for the menú del peregrino or menú del día. At special meals in restaurants, leaving 3-5 percent of the total bill is typical (if you really loved the meal, leave 5-10 percent). In cafés, over drinks and snacks, it is fine to leave nothing, but sometimes patrons leave a few centimes to show appreciation for a hardworking bartender or waiter.
There are no public restrooms on the Camino. Many people relieve themselves on the side of the trail, but this should be avoided, as with the growing number of pilgrims on the trail, it creates garbage, takes its toll on the environment, and compromises the integrity of the many nearby waterways and farmers’ fields. Instead, when you need to use the restroom, purchase a drink or snack at a bar or café so you can use their facilities. It’s a great way to rehydrate and refuel, too.
If you absolutely must relieve yourself trailside, don’t do so near farmer’s fields, or closer than a few hundred feet from a stream or waterway. Carry a plastic bag to pack out toilet paper to where you can dispose of it safely. And if you do more than pee, yes, you should pick up your waste, wrap it well, and throw it away in a waste bin.
There is important etiquette on the trail and with other peregrinos. First, be sure to dispose of trash (including TP and human waste) in proper receptacles. Both locals and peregrinos have been infuriated by the amount of trash, and TP, that has accrued in farmers’ fields, the trail, forests, and gardens.
Other trail etiquette is to make way for people who are trying to pass, and if passing, to thank the person. It is a small gesture that goes a long way to keep the Camino congenial. If cycling, it is imperative to slow down before approaching those on foot and make your presence known long before trying to pass, so that you don’t startle walkers carrying heavy packs and cause them to lose their balance.
Locals tolerate just about any type of dress in public and churches, but dressing modestly is a nice way to show respect; you may want to drape a light scarf over bare shoulders before entering a church.
In the albergues, it is key to honor everyone’s boundaries. With other peregrinos, this means to only take up your bunk or bed space, and to keep the albergue clean, and to leave it clean. Be quiet and considerate, and don’t turn on lights or headlamps if heading to the restroom at night while others are still sleeping. If you leave early, make as little noise as possible, and absolutely do not rustle plastic bags (the bane of many!) until you are well outside of the sleeping quarters.
It is also imperative to be kind to the hospitaleros/as (local volunteers serving pilgrims in the albergues) and locals who are doing everything to serve peregrinos. They work long days, cooking and cleaning the albergues and then going home to cook for their own families, and all on either a donativo (donation) or small fee basis, so your patience goes a long way. Even better: Ask how you can help.
Overall, the Camino is safe, but visitors should keep their street smarts on, especially as the Camino is becoming more popular than ever. Water and food are high quality and at the same high standards as the rest of Europe: all water from indoor plumbing and from indoor taps is treated and drinkable. On the trail, only drink out of fountains marked potable.
No inoculations are required for international travelers to Spain or France, though people may want to be sure they are up to date on their tetanus shots.
Violence on the Camino is nearly unheard of; however, tragedies have occasionally occurred. Most recently, in 2015, a female pilgrim was lured (via fake yellow arrows painted on the trail) to a remote farm, where she was murdered. The perpetrator is now serving the highest jail sentence possible in Spain. Since the murder, locals and municipalities have increased their regular monitoring of Camino trail markers, some installing official signs instead of hand-painted marks, and the local police and the rural police (who have always been vigilant about monitoring the trail) have increased their efforts.
There are a few parts of the Camino where you will be near the road or will need to cross it; at these times, take extra care to watch for quickly appearing and moving cars.
For serious emergencies requiring either medical or police intervention, dial 112. Many emergency operators can work out your concern, even if you do not speak a lot of Spanish. To report minor crimes that are not immediate emergencies, the Spanish police also have a hotline for visitors—902-102-112—with operators on hand who speak English, French, Italian, and German. You can also ask a hospitalero to help you contact the right authorities and make a report.
The Camino has a strong network of medical clinics (centros de salud) and pharmacies all along the trail, in towns large and small. For minor issues (such as tendonitis, bed bugs, or digestive discomforts) seek out a pharmacist. You will identify a pharmacy (una farmacía) with the green cross sign over the entrance.
For more serious issues, the Camino has many excellent hospitals, which locals (hospitaleros, pharmacists, and inn keepers) will readily help you to get to. Some major hospitals include:
Pamplona: Hospital de Navarra (Calle de Irunlarrea, 3; 848-422-222), near the university and 2.7 kilometers (1.7 miles) southwest of the historic center.
Logroño: Hospital San Pedro (Calle Piqueras, 98; 941-298-000), 3 kilometers (1.9 miles) southeast of the cathedral.
Burgos: Hospital Universitario de Burgos (Avenida Islas Baleares, 3; 947-281-800), 3 kilometers (1.9 miles) northeast of Burgos’s cathedral.
León: Hospital Universitario de León (Altos de Navas, s/n; 987-237-400), 2.7 kilometers (1.7 miles) due north of the cathedral.
Sarria: (Centro de Salud): Centro de Salud de Sarria (Rúa Toleiro, 14D; 981-506-176 and 982-532-111), a 7-minute, 650-meter (2,133-foot) walk from the Iglesia de Santa Mariña to the east side of the river Sarria.
Santiago de Compostela: Hospital Clínico Universitario de Santiago (Rúa da Choupana, s/n; 981-950-000), 2.2 kilometers (1.4 miles) southwest of the cathedral.
It is strongly advised to have at least 1.5 liters (0.5 gallon) of water (more in summer) on you at all times as you hike the Camino. At the same time, if it is hot and you are sweating a lot, it is also a good idea to replenish lost salt. (Some travelers even carry a little travel-size salt shaker.)
In warm weather, protect yourself from heat stroke and exhaustion by getting an early start, right before or as the sun rises, and stop early in the day. Use sunscreen, a hat, and protective clothing, and drink ample water.
Bed bugs do not transmit any known diseases, but their bites can cause uncomfortable bumps and welts. Your best defense is to learn to identify the signs that they may be in a room, and to quickly check for these signs before setting your pack down and settling in. Bedbugs are oval and somewhat flat (when not gorged with blood) and about the size of a small lentil. They become more pea-shaped when full of blood. They also leave trails of excrement, so if you see little brown or black dots in a row on a mattress or sheet, you may be dealing with bedbugs. They like to hide by day in mattress creases or wall cracks, and then come out at night to feed. Report any signs or sightings and show them to the albergue hospitalero or hotel manager right away, and then find yourself somewhere else to stay. If you already paid, you can and should get your money back.
The Camino has had its share of chinches (bed bugs), but the vast majority of accommodations are on top of the matter, both to prevent and contain infestations. Still, if you’re worried about bed bugs, consider traveling with permethrin-treated sleeping bag liners or sleeping sheets.
Ticks are rarely discussed on the Camino, but they do exist, and in both southwestern France and northern Spain some can carry Lyme disease. Some peregrinos have picked up ticks when they wander off the trail for a bathroom break in the tall grasses (another reason to avoid relieving yourself on the side of the trail!). In rainy warm seasons, especially spring, they are a greater issue. If you get a tick and don’t know the proper way to remove it, seek the assistance of a hospitalero, pharmacist, or medical clinic. Remove it immediately and disinfect the area.
Blisters can usually be prevented if you make sure that your hiking shoes fit you perfectly before leaving home. Test them with a few 10-15 mile (16-24 kilometer) walks at home to be certain that they don’t begin to chafe when your feet get warm and swell. It’s also smart to wear socks specifically woven for blister prevention. Also, make sure your pack weight is within or under the advised 10-15 percent of your body weight. As you walk, get in the habit of stopping every 5-6 kilometers (3-4 miles) to rest, take off your shoes and socks, and let them and your feet air dry before putting them back on. On rainy days when this is not possible, I like to have that extra pair—that third pair that is not drying from washing or already on my feet—of dry socks to pull from my pack and put on.
If you do get blisters, wash your feet well and let them dry, then see what the extent of the blister(s) is. If mild, some swear by Compeed or other form of second skin as a good protective barrier, but inquire with a pharmacist and see what they may offer or advise. If the blister is more extensive, seek the aid of an experienced hospitalero or pharmacist to help treat it, often with a sterilized needle to puncture and drain it. You will want to keep the blister free of infection and minimize any further irritation so that it will heal quickly.
Many leg, knee, ankle, and back injuries on the Camino can be prevented by a daily habit of stretching, especially when you have finished the day and want to collapse after a hot shower. Be sure to fit in 5-10 minutes of stretching and you should be able to prevent the vast majority of muscle and joint ailments that can plague pilgrims.
On public national holidays in Spain (listed below), some places may be closed:
• New Year’s Day: January 1
• Epiphany (Three Kings’ Day): January 6
• Carnival: A few days, and especially the Tuesday, before Ash Wednesday and the start of Lent usually within February or March
• Semana Santa: the week leading up to Easter Sunday
• Worker’s Day: May 1
• Saint John’s Night: June 23, Saint John’s Day: June 24
• Assumption of Mary: August 15
• Spanish National Day: October 12
• All Saints’ Day: November 1
• Constitution Day: December 6
• Immaculate Conception: December 8
• Christmas Day: December 25
• Festival of the San Ildefonso (Jan. 23, Camponaraya): Mid-winter festival of the village patron saint.
• San Tirso’s Festival (Jan. 28, Palas de Rei): Celebration of the town’s patron saint.
• Fiesta del Cocido del Porco Celta (last weekend in Jan., Sarria): Celtic pork festival, celebrating dishes made from the native Galician pig.
• Cheese Festival (early Mar., Arzúa)
• Feira do Queixo (late Apr., Palas de Rei): Cheese festival celebrating the region’s queso de Ulloa.
• Fiestas del Santo (late Apr.-mid May, Santo Domingo de la Calzada): Feast days of patron saint Santo Domingo de la Calzada, with a lot of eating and evening processions throughout town.
• Romeria de la Virgen del Puente (Apr., Sahagún): Celebration of the produce of the land and of spring, unofficially called the romeria del pan y queso (bread and cheese pilgrimage).
• Fiesta de Melindres (mid May, Melide): Two-day festival of the anise-laced local cookies.
• Las Fiestas del Calle del Laurel (last week of May, Logroño): Pintxos/pinchos and wine celebration on a pub-packed street.
• Festividad de San Bernabó (June 11, Logroño): Festival honoring Logroño’s patron saint, Bernabó, with a communal feast of stew, bread, and wine for the city’s poorest members.
• Fiesta de San Juan de Sahagún (June 12-13, Sahagún): Celebration of the town’s patron saint.
• Fiesta de San Juan (June 21-25, Sarria): Five-day celebration of Saint John, with music, dance, folkloric and religious processions, and bullfights.
• Fiesta de San Juan (June 24, Castrojeriz): Saint John’s Festival, celebrating both the summer solstice and Saint John the Baptist’s feast day.
• Medieval Festival (June, Hospital de Órbigo): Reenactment of a famous jousting tournament with jousting, food, drink, and fanfare.
• Fiesta de la Virgen de la Peregrina, (July 2, Sahagún): Processions, traditional folkloric groups, bonfires, and festive foods.
• Fiesta de los Sanfermines (July 6-14, Pamplona) The famed running of the bulls, originally in honor of the town’s patron saint, San Fermín. It’s a massive party.
• Festival de Santiago (July 15-31, Santiago de Compostela): Saint James’s feast day, July 25, is so big it’s celebrated over a couple weeks, with music, art exhibits, and theater productions.
• Fiesta de Ajo (mid-July, Castrojeriz): Garlic festival.
• Feria del Queso (third week in July, Fromista): Cheese fair where you can taste the artisanal cheeses and meats produced in the region.
• Fiesta de Nuestra Señora del Carmen (July 21, Melide): Animated festivities of music, dance, processions, and foods.
• Fiesta de la Magdalena (July 22, Castrillo de los Polvazares): Mary Magdalene’s feast day. Locals dress in traditional Maragato attire, and there are processions with the icon of Mary Magdalene, along with music, song, dance, and festive foods.
• Festa da Praia (last weekend in July, Finisterre): Beach festival, with food, song, and festivities.
• Fiesta del Carmen (last Sun. in July, Muxía): Maritime procession from Muxía across the estuary to the village of Camariñas.
• Fería de Alfarería y Cerámica (July, Navarette): Ceramics fare with local wares.
• Fiesta de la Almeja (early Aug., Corcubión): Clam festival, with clam tastings complimented with crisp white wines.
• Mary’s Assumption into Heaven (Aug. 15, Santo Domingo de la Calzada): Feast day for the town’s patroness.
• Fiesta de San Roque (Aug. 15-21, Melide): A week of animated festivities of music, dance, processions, and foods.
• Fiesta del Fin del Camino (third weekend in Aug., Finisterre): End of the Camino Festival that doubles as a festival of anchovies, with eating, drinking, dancing, and chances to sample the local delicacy.
• El Misterio de Obanos (late Aug., Obanos): Reenactment of a local legend, involving the whole village as the stage and its inhabitants as the cast.
• Celebration of Mary’s Birth (Sept. 8, Roncesvalles): Region-wide festivities centered in one of the most important Marian sanctuaries in the Pyrenees.
• Festival of Santa Maria das Areas (Sept. 8, Finisterre): Honoring the town patroness with processions, song, and feasting.
• Fiesta de Sejo (second Sun. in Sept., Castrojeriz): Celebration of the town patroness, with processions and folk traditions in music, dance, and food.
• Virxe da Barca Romería (between Sept. 9 and 15., Muxía): Pilgrimage and festival honoring the Virxe da Barca, Our Lady of the Boat, that brings people from all across Galicia.
• Santa María la Real (Sept. 15-18, Nájera): Local celebration with processions, concerts, and food.
• Fiesta de Gracias (Sept. 18, Santo Domingo de la Calzada): Harvest festival of thanks, during which an image of Mary is carried in procession through town.
• Fiestas de San Mateo and Fiesta de la Vendimia (third weekend in Sept. and centered on Sept. 21, Logroño): Festival of the wine harvest, with copious food and wine and eruptive cheer interspersed with serious blessings and gratitude.
• Festival of La Soledad (third weekend in Sept., Camponaraya): Celebration of the village patroness, La Soledad. Often coincides with the wine harvest.
• Fiesta de San Fermín Chiquito (Sept. 25, Pamplona): Compared to the running of the bulls, a smaller, more solemn, and religious festival to honor San Fermín, with a much more intimate and local flavor (and no bull runs).
• Fiesta del Pimiento Riojano (last Sun. in Oct., Nájera) Celebrating the flavorful piquant little red pepper in Riojan cuisine.
• Fiesta de la Castaña (Oct., Samos): Chestnut festival, with chances to try soups, breads, pastries, candies, and preserves made with the native nut.
• Ecological fair (Oct., Arzúa) Natural, local, and organic products and services.
• Ferias de la Concepción (typically around the 6th to the 9th of Dec., Santo Domingo de la Calzada): Celebration with an atmospheric medieval market and Camino market highlighting thousand-year-old arts, crafts, foods, music, dance, and theater.
Spanish is the primary language (and French, for those flying into France or starting in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port). Basque is a main language with French and Spanish in Basque Country and in Navarra. Gallego is the most-spoken language in Galicia, a language closer to Portuguese than Spanish. But everywhere, Spanish is understood.
Though the Spanish largely do not speak English, except in the upper-scale hotels and restaurants, this is changing more and more. The Spanish are remarkably helpful and willing to go above and beyond to help visitors, even those visitors lacking a lot of language skills themselves. Still, learn a little Spanish and it will deepen your experience.
Be sure to alert your bank and your credit card company before you depart; let them know the days of your trip so that your cards will not be blocked from use once you land.
The Camino is pretty much a cash economy, and it’s smart to have an average of €200 in your pocket, an amount you can replenish with a debit card at ATMs along the way in major cities, large and small towns, and some large villages. I also like to draw money from the ATM during open bank hours, and from a machine on the premises of the bank office—some also have machines inside in a more sheltered area of their entrance or lobby. That way, if there is an issue, I can get help right away.
You can withdraw a maximum of €300 per day from Spanish ATMs; this should last 10-12 days for those with modest budgets of €25-30/day, and 6-7 days for those with budgets of €40-50/day. Some banks may charge a fee; if so, they will always post what it is as you are about to withdraw, so that you can choose to continue or to cancel the transaction. Your home bank may also charge fees for ATM withdrawals, which is a good thing to look into before leaving. Remember also to inform your bank and your credit card company about the dates and countries you’ll visit, so that they will not block the card when you begin to use it abroad.
ATM keypads in Europe are numerical, with no letters, so if your PIN code is something you remember using four letters, be sure to look at a keypad before leaving so you can translate the letters to their corresponding numbers on the same keys.
It is smart to have an emergency credit card tucked in a safe place, or to use on a splurge such as, say, staying in a five-star establishment where credit cards are certainly accepted. The chip-and-pin card is the most common card style in use in France and Spain, but if you have a chip-and-signature or magnetic strip-style card, this should not pose a problem as long as the transaction is with a vendor who can enter the number manually to complete a transaction. It may pose a problem at self-service vending machines with no human attendants, such as gas pumps and train ticket kiosks. Visa, followed by MasterCard, are the two most widely used and accepted credit cards. While albergues, most rural and family-run pensions and hostales, and many bars and cafés only accept cash, credit cards are more accepted in urban and upscale restaurants and hotels, at tourist sights, and in tourist shops.
Though exchange rates fluctuate, approximate exchange rates are:
• USA: €1= $1.17 (USD, €0.85/$1)
• Canada: €1= $1.54 (CAN, €0.65/$1)
• United Kingdom: €1= £0.89 (GBP, €1.12/£1)
• Australia: €1= $1.58 (AUD, €0.63/$1)
• New Zealand: €1= $1.72 (NZD, €0.58/$1)
• South Africa: €1= R0.58 (ZAR/Rand, €0.58/R1)
A minimum budget of €25-30 per day will cover staying in albergues and enjoying a mix of meals, from purchasing groceries and cooking your own to also enjoying a communal meal at the albergue or menú del peregrino for dinner each day.
A royal budget of €100 per day will let you stay in all ranges of accommodations, except for the most opulent, and eat anywhere you desire. But if you stayed in albergues some days and modest pensiones and hostales on others, this budget will help you cover a night per week in a parador or other luxury hotel.
And best, in the middle, an average budget of €40-50 per day for food and lodging allows for mixing it up and staying in all the types of accommodations available, and also enjoying some of the best restaurants on the Camino. Some days you may want to stay in an albergue but splurge on a special meal, and other days you may stay in a nice hotel but then go for the budget-minded menú del peregrino.
Wifi is becoming ubiquitous all along the Camino. (Meanwhile, public computers and internet cafés are on the decline.) And while some locals (especially some albergues in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and the refuge in Orisson) believe pilgrims should disconnect, most albergues, especially the privately run ones, have succumbed to pilgrim demand for wifi, although the signal isn’t necessarily always very strong. WiFi, when available, is free to paying customers in cafes and bars and to guests in albergues and other accommodations.
If you want to bring your phone, check with your service provider to see if you can use your phone abroad and what the fees will be. If your phone is unlocked, you can purchase a Spanish SIM card with a Spanish phone number after arriving (such as at Orange, Movistar, and Vodafone) to use for the duration of your trip, paying as you go with top up-minutes that you can purchase at the mobile network stores along the way. In the more modern albergues, dorm beds, more and more, each have their own personal plug so that you can recharge your device overnight.
Mobile phone reception is nearly ubiquitous all along the Camino, and strongest near settlements. At times there may be brief patches of no service in the more remote stretches through less populated areas, such as when crossing the Pyrenees from Orisson to Roncesvalles, a patch here and there in the valley from Roncesvalles to Pamplona, parts of crossing León’s mountains from the Cruz de Ferro to El Acebo, and on small sections of the Camino Finisterre trail toward the coast after leaving Santiago de Compostela.
If calling from within the country (France or Spain), you should not need to dial the international country code (+33 for France, and +34 for Spain) before dialing the 9-digit number. In Spain, the first three digits of the nine-digit phone numbers are the regional or area code. If it begins with a “9” it is a landline, and if it begins with a “6” or “7” it is a cell phone.
Note that you can dial the emergency number, 112, from any phone.
Spain and the Camino are generally quite safe for female and solo trekkers, but it’s important to remain vigilant, as you would anywhere in the world.
Harassment, verbal or otherwise, is also rare, though with the increasing popularity of the route, some women have reported receiving unwanted advances, such as groping, and (on much rarer occasions) assault. Authorities take such incidents seriously and ask that you report them right away by dialing 112. You can also go directly to the local police (and hospitaleros can help you or take you there). The Spanish police also have a non-emergency hotline for visitors—902-102-112—with operators speaking several languages, including English.
If you want an extra measure of security, you can ask to join Camigas, an all-women’s network (a closed group on Facebook) of female pilgrims. Through the network, you can ask advice, or even find other women to walk with.
The Spanish in general, and the Camino culture in particular, is open minded and tolerant, and celebrates diversity. Spain was the fourth nation in the world to legalize gay marriage, in 2005, and legalized adoption by same-sex couples in 2006. LGBTQ+ travelers will probably find more tolerance and ease here than back home. Pilgrims are a diverse mix (hailing from more than 140 countries) but overall the community is open and tolerant.
At the same time, whether heterosexual or not, people do not show too much romantic affection in public, not even kissing lightly on the lips, so all couples may want to practice discretion.
While albergues offer little privacy, same-sex couples will not have a problem getting a private room together, and few Spanish innkeepers will have an issue with it. There is no specific Camino network for LGBTQ+ travelers, but the all-inclusive and very supportive Camino Forum (www.caminodesantiago.me) is a good place to read other pilgrims’ experiences, ask any questions that concern you, and get a balanced response.
Spain is an open and tolerant culture, and most of its citizens are very welcoming to people of all ethnicities and nationalities. Travelers may be surprised to hear Spaniards refer to someone by physical or national attribute, and anything is game: la morena (the brown one), la gorda (the fat one), el rubio (the blond one), la negra (the black one), el Americano (the American), el chino (the Chinese), la chica (the girl), la guapa/el guapo (the pretty/handsome one) and the like. However, no harm is meant by this.
The Camino is also riotously diverse, and there are many people from all around the world, especially Europe, Asia, and Latin America, walking it. Within the local and international community of the Camino, people of color will most likely experience total ease and welcome, though there may be the rare occasion where you are seen by a villager or other pilgrim as “exotic,” especially if you are of African descent.
The Camino Forum (www.caminodesantiago.me) is also a good community of pilgrims to read other pilgrims’ experiences and ask any questions that concern you about walking the Camino. A good Camino memoir that shares the experience of walking the Camino as African Americans is No Complaints . . . Shut Up and Walk, by Emmett and Jasmyne Williams.
Walking the Camino may be one of the best things a family can do together. The Spanish culture is oriented toward children and family, and Spaniards love it when they see a multi-generational tribe on the trail. Almost everywhere you go on the Camino, you and your children will probably receive a lot of attention, cheer, and help, both from Spaniards and from other peregrinos. All accommodations, including albergues, are open to children.
Depending on the age of your children, you will want to think about the distance to walk each day. Be sure to take breaks and have snacks and water for rest stops in between cafés.
A good view into the experience of walking as a family with children is from World Towning, a nomadic family of four who walked the Camino in 2018 and beautifully documented their day-to-day trek on several YouTube videos (www.worldtowning.com; start with Episode 68, “Ready to Begin: Camino de Santiago Vlog”).
The Camino is becoming as much a rite of passage for reflecting on life and deciding the next chapter for older people as it is a “gap year” for younger people. On average, 24 percent of pilgrims are 60 and older.
One of the splendors of staying in albergues is meeting people of all ages, from toddlers as young as two to seniors nearing 90. Additionally, Spanish culture shows a lot of respect toward older people, and help is always available should you desire it.
While the Camino is demanding, it is also well supported. It’s a long-distance test of persistence, pacing, and patience, more than it is a test of sheer physical strength or speed. The stretches that challenge younger people, such as the first day of crossing the Pyrenees and the area around O Cebreiro, will also be the stretches where senior pilgrims will want to take extra care. Be sure to prepare physically in advance of your trip, and continue a regimen of daily stretching throughout.
While it requires serious planning, many persons with mobility restrictions, whether cane, crutch, or wheelchair, have done the Camino. Not all sections are passable or advisable, but large sections are, including the last 100 kilometers (62 miles). While not all facilities are accessible to those in wheelchairs, awareness and support for handicapped peregrinos is increasing. Some services offer special planning points (as well as route planning and pack transfer) for those doing the Camino with a wheelchair, such as the Santiago de Compostela-based Pilgrim (www.pilgrim.es). The UK pilgrims’ association, Confraternity of Saint James, offers good considerations for those with disabilities in planning and doing the Camino, including links to lists of albergues with accessibility, route maps, and other important planning tools (https://www.csj.org.uk/question/pilgrimage-for-people-with-disabilities/).
Ambitious pilgrims using canes, crutches, or wheelchairs can traverse the full Camino with appropriate training and protection. You may want to bridge difficult sections—the Pyrenees and the mountains of León, for instance—with a taxi or bus. Those doing the Camino in a wheelchair will, about half the time, like cyclists, follow the roads when the trail is too rocky or narrow, or when it’s an uneven foot path, though this prospect is more treacherous in a wheelchair than on a bike, as drivers are less likely to expect or see a wheelchair. (Many who opt to do the whole Camino in a wheelchair do it in sections and/or have friends and family accompany them.) Like many pilgrims in general, most pilgrims with mobility issues begin in Sarria and make the final 115-kilometer (71-mile) trek into Santiago de Compostela, which is the most accommodating section of the Camino, and the one where you will likely not need a taxi or bus unless you feel like it. Moreover, pilgrims are a very helpful group and many will be on hand to offer assistance in a pinch.
Nearly every country has its own pilgrim association that is a community of information and support, both before and after walking the Camino. Many also have an official pilgrim’s credential that they can send you for a small fee. The two core associations are those in France (La Société Française des Amis de Saint Jacques de Compostelle, www.compostell.asso.fr) and Spain (Federación Española de Asociaciones de Amigos del Camino de Santiago, www.caminosantiago.org). In English-speaking nations, some of the largest pilgrim associations are:
• In the USA: American Pilgrims on the Camino, www.americanpilgrims.org
• In Canada: The Canadian Company of Pilgrims, www.santiago.ca/contact-us/
• In the UK: The Confraternity of Saint James (CSJ), www.csj.org.uk
• In Ireland: Camino Society Ireland, www.caminosociety.com
• In Australia and New Zealand: Australian Friends of the Camino, www.afotc.org
• In South Africa: Confraternity of St. James South Africa, www.csjofsa.za.org
• In the Netherlands: Genootschap van Sant Jacob, www.santiago.nl/english/intro
In all, there are over 800 places to stay on the Camino, and more are opening each year. If you begin your Camino in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the Pilgrim’s Welcome Office hands out a free complete listing of all albergues on the Camino from there to Santiago de Compostela, efficiently condensed into a three-page (front and back) document. Camino Forum (www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources) also offers a free, current and nearly complete listing of albergues online (look for the regularly updated PDF titled “All Albergues on the Camino Francés”).
Three free and basic online guides offering interactive maps and altitudes of the Camino also strive to keep current lists of accommodations, some with direct links to maps, websites, and for some, direct bookings on Booking.com. These are:
Eroski Consumer (www.caminode-santiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/frances)
Gronze (www.gronze.com/camino-frances)
Forwalk (www.santiago.forwalk.org)
There are many transfer services that will pick up your pack from the place you stayed and deliver it to the next stopping point if you have reservations and know where you are staying each day. Many accommodations work with the transfer services and have their bag tags there for you to use. These services let you reserve online ahead of time, or as you go; fees can range from €4-10 per daily transfer. Two of most common ones are Jacotrans (www.jacotrans.es/en; €7/daily transfer) and the Spanish postal service, Los Correos (www.elcaminoconcorreos.com/en; €4/daily transfer). The Los Correos website also has a lot of great tips for walking the Camino from postal workers who have done the pilgrimage themselves.
The large sporting goods store Decathlon (www.decathlon.com) has locations in France and Spain, including in Pamplona, Estella, Logroño, Burgos, and Santiago de Compostela.
In Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, right in the heart of the medieval town next to many of the albergues, the Boutique du Pelerin (32 Rue de la Citadelle; 559-379-852; www.boutique-du-pelerin.com) can supply anything you may have forgotten or offer good advice about what you really need.
In Pamplona is the excellent Caminoteca (Calle Curia, 15; 948-210-316; www.caminoteca.com), 50 meters (164 feet) off the Camino in the old town near the cathedral. They carry gear and supplies tailored to pilgrim needs and also offer loads of advice at this early stage to help you fine-tune and adjust your Camino.
The Camino-oriented trekking store Planeta Agua (www.planeta-agua.com) has stores in Zubiri, Viana, Logroño, and Santo Domingo de la Calzada; all are on or near the Camino as it passes through these towns.
Near the train station, K2 Planet (Avenida Doctor Fleming, 20; 987-804-196; www.k2planet.com) in León has been outfitting people for the Camino since 1989 and is great for equipment as well as advice.
In Sarria, Peregrinoteca (Calle Benigno Quiroga, 16; 982-530-190; www.peregrinoteca.com) carries the latest trekking gear and is right on the Camino as you enter the town.
For paper maps, Michelin Camino de Santiago (Map 160) creates a light map book detailing day-to-day stages of the Camino, with the trail marked out on a detailed topographical map. John Brierley also puts out a light maps and accommodations listings-only book, Camino de Santiago—Maps. For digital maps, Eroski Consumer (www.caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/frances), Gronze (www.gronze.com/camino-frances), and Forwalk (www.santiago.forwalk.org) offer digital maps for use on an internet browser or app format for any tablet device.
Unless otherwise noted, terms are in Spanish.
abajo: down, below
abierto: open
aduana: customs
aeropuerto: airport
albergue: pilgrim’s hostel
aldea: hamlet
alimento: food
almuerzo: lunch
alrededores: outskirts
alto: hill or height
arriba: up, above
arroya: stream
aseo: toilet (public bathrooms in bars, cafes, restaurants, and stations; can also be servicios)
auberge (French): pilgrim’s hostel
autobús: bus
autopista: highway
ayuda: assistance
banco: bank
baño: bathroom (of a hotel/hostal room or private home)
barrio: neighborhood
bastón: walking stick/pole
bebida: soft drink
bien: good, well
billete: ticket, banknote
bocadillo: sandwich
bolsa: bag (shopping), purse
bolso: pocket, purse
bosque: forest
botillo: smoked pork sausage from El Bierzo
buen bueno, buena: good
cajero: cashier
cajero automático: ATM
calcetines: socks
Caldeirada: bouillabaisse-like fish stew from Galicia and Portugal
caldo: broth
caldo Gallego: Galician soup made of beans, pork, and leafy greens
caliente: hot
calle: street
cama: bed
camarero: waiter
cambio: change, exchange
capilla: chapel
carnet de pèlerin (French): see credencial del peregrino
carretera: road, highway
casco antiguo: historic center
castillo: castle
castro: round hilltop fortress
catedral: cathedral
cena: dinner
cerca: near
chinches: bed bugs
Chi-Rho: an early symbol of Christ, formed by overlapping the first two letters of Christ’s name in Greek
ciudad: city or large town
coche: car
cocido: stew
Codex Calixtinus: 12th-century guide to the Camino
col: mountain pass (in the romance language of Occitan)
comida: meal
Compostela: certificate completing the pilgrimage, collected at the church in Santiago de Compostela
concha: shell
conductor: driver
consulado: consulate
convento: convent
correos: post office
correspondencia: connection (train, bus, plane)
corto: short glass of beer
costa: coast
credencial del peregrino: pilgrim’s passport; the document that allows trekkers to stay in albergues and collect a Compostela at the end of their journey (if they gather enough stamps)
crucero or cruceiro: roadside cross
cuajada: yogurt-like custard
cuarto: room
cuenta: bill, check, tab
cueva: cave
dentro: inside, in
derecha: right (direction)
derecho: straight, law
desayuno: breakfast
descuento: discount
destino: destination (also destiny)
dinero: money
donativo: donation
dormitorio: dormitory
edificio: building
église (French): church
embajada: embassy
entrada: entrance
entrée (French): entrance
ermita: hermitage
estacionamiento: parking
estación: station
estación de autobus: bus station
estación de tren/ferrocaril: train station
Euskadi (Basque): Basque Country
euskara (Basque): the Basque language
excursión: excursion
farmacía: pharmacy
fermé (French): closed
ferrocaril: railway, railroad
flecha: arrow
frio: cold
fuente: fountain
fuera: outside, out
gracias: thank you
gratuito: free (cost)
granja: farm
guía: guide
habitación: room
horario: timetable, schedule
horreo: stone granary on stilts; common in Galicia
hospitalero/hospitalera: albergue staff (male/female)
hostal: family-run inn
iglesia: church
izquierda: left (direction)
lejos: far
lesker (Basque): you’re welcome
libre: free (unoccupied)
librería: bookshop
llegada: arrival
maleta: suitcase
manta: blanket
mapa: map, plan
meiga: traditional herbalist/healer from León and Galicia
menú del peregrino: pilgrim’s menu; a basic three-course meal offered in local restaurants and albergues
meseta: plateau
mercado: market
milsker (Basque): thank you
misa: Mass
mochila: backpack
monasterio: monastery (can also refer to a convent)
moneda: cash, money, coin
monja: nun
monje: monk
monumento: monument
mozárabe: Islamic architectural style by Iberian Christians from the south in Christian Spain
mudéjar: Islamic architectural style by Iberian Muslim builders in Christian Spain
museo: museum
noticias: news
océano: ocean
orujo: after-dinner drink
ouvert (French): open
palloza: traditional Galician round stone house with a thatched roof
panadería: bakery
parada: bus stop/subway stop/taxi stop
paradores: historic former monasteries that have been converted into state-run hotels
parque: park
pasaporte: passport
paseo: walk
pastelería: pastry shop
pèlerin/pèlerine (French): pilgrim (male/female)
peligro: danger
peregrino/peregrina: pilgrim (male/female)
periódico: newspaper
pimientos de Padrón: Little green peppers sautéed in olive oil and served with a dash of salt. In an order, about one in ten is hot and the rest are sweet.
pincho: appetizer, snack
pintxos: Basque spelling of pinchos
piquillos: stuffed roasted peppers
playa: beach
policía: police
potable: drinkable (agua potable: drinkable water)
praia (Gallego): beach
precio: price, cost
pueblo: village or small town, a people (as in el pueblo Español: the Spanish people)
puente: bridge
puerta: door or gate
puerto: pass or port
pulpo: octopus
pulpo á feira: boiled octopus seasoned with Spanish paprika, olive oil, and sea salt
queimada: ritual drink made from orujo, lemon and orange peel, coffee beans, and sugar, and lit before drinking
queso: cheese
refuge (French): shelter, albergue
refugio: shelter, albergue
río: river
romanico: Romanesque
romano: Roman
romería: local pilgrimage
ropa: clothes
ruinas: ruins
sábana: bed sheet
sacerdote: priest
salida: departure, exit
santo/santa: saint
santuario: sanctuary
sello: stamp (both a pilgrim’s credential stamp and a postage stamp)
semáforo: traffic light
Semana Santa: Holy Week/Easter Week
servicios: toilets (public toilets in bars, cafes, restaurants, and stations; can also be called aseos)
signo: sign
sin alcohol: nonalcoholic
¡socorro!: help!
sopa: soup
sortie (French): exit
taquilla: ticket office
tarjeta: card
tarjeta de crédito: credit card
tienda: shop
toalla: towel
toilettes (French): toilets
torre: tower
tortilla Española: onion-and-potato omelet
tren: train
turismo: tourist office/information
vendimia: grape (wine) harvest
viña or viñedo: vineyard
vino: wine
zapatos: shoes
Hello. Good day. Hola. Buenos días.
Good afternoon. Buenas tardes.
Good evening (early evening). Buenas tardes.
Good evening (late evening). Buenas noches.
Mr./Mrs./Miss. Señor/Señora/Señorita.
Please. Por favor.
Thank you. Gracias.
Goodbye. Adiós.
Until later. Hasta luego.
Yes. Sí.
No. No.
How much is . . . ¿ Cuantos se cuesta . . . ?
Please, where is the toilet? (asked in bars, restaurants, and cafés) ¿Por favor donde esta el servicio?
Please, can you tell me where is . . . Por favor, puede decirme dónde está . . .
I need . . . Necesito . . .
How are you? ¿Cómo está usted?
What is your name? ¿Cómo se llama?
My name is . . . Me llamo . . .
I am [a permanent quality, such as English, married, single] . . . Soy [Inglés, casada/o, soltera/o] . . .
I am [a temporary state such as lost] . . . Estoy [perdida/o] . . .
I don’t understand. No entiendo.
It’s okay/It’s not important. No importa.
You are very kind. Usted es muy amable.
I am tired. Estoy cansada/o.
I am hungry. Tengo hambre.
I am thirsty. Tengo sed.
Do you speak English? ¿Habla usted inglés?
Please, where can I find . . . Por favor, dónde puedo encontrar . . .
To the left. A la izquierda.
To the right. A la derecha.
Straight ahead. Todo derecho.
The time. La hora (the hour, as in ¿Que hora es? [What time is it?]) or el tiempo (the time, as in el tiempo del los romanos [the time of the Romans] or quiero llegar a tiempo [I hope to arrive on time]).
The weather. El tiempo. (Hace buen tiempo. [The weather is good.])
The morning. La mañana.
The afternoon and early evening. La tarde.
The evening/night. La noche.
I need to go to... Tengo que irme a...
Can you please call me a taxi? ¿Puede usted por favor llamame un taxi?
The bus. El autobus.
The train. El tren.
The airport. El aeropuerto.
The plane. El avión.
A taxi. Un taxi.
A car. Un coche.
The schedule. El horario.
A ticket. Un billete.
A map. Un mapa.
Day/week/month Día/semana/mes
Monday Lunes
Tuesday Martes
Wednesday Miercoles
Thursday Jueves
Friday Viernes
Saturday Sabado
Sunday Domingo
January Enero
February Febrero
March Marzo
April Abril
May Mayo
June Junio
July Julio
August Agosto
September Septiembre
October Octubre
November Noviembre
Please, I need a bed/a room. Is there one available? ¿Por favor, necesito una cama/un cuarto. Hay una/uno disponible?
For one (person) Para uno.
For two (people) Para dos.
With a private bath Con baño privado.
A/the bed Una/la cama.
A/the sheet Una/la sábana.
A/the towel Una/la toalla.
Some toilet paper Algo de papel higiénico.
The street La calle.
The village/town/city La aldea/el pueblo/la ciudad.
The square La plaza.
The church La iglesia.
The cathedral La catedral.
The monastery/convent El monasterio/el convento.
The intersection. La intersección.
The path El camino.
The yellow arrow La flecha amarilla.
A water fountain with drinkable water. Una fuente con agua potable.
I/We would like the menú/combined plate/[dish listed on the menu]. Me/Nosotros gustaría el menú (del día, del peregrino)/plato combinado/[dish listed on the menu].
I would like . . . Me gustaría . . .
Water Agua.
A mineral water (flat). Un agua mineral.
Carbonated mineral water. Un agua mineral con gas.
Juice Zumo.
Orange juice Zumo de naranja.
A beer Una cerveza.
A glass of red wine. Una copa de vino tinto.
A glass of white wine. Una copa de vino blanco.
A glass Un vaso.
A bottle Una botella.
The dish El plato.
The [fixed price] menu El menú.
A fork Un tenedor.
A spoon Una cuchara.
A knife Un cuchillo.
Some bread Algo de pan.
The soup La sopa.
Vegetables Verduras, and also legumbres.
Meat Carne.
Fish Pescado.
Shellfish Mariscos.
Vegetarian Vegetariana/o.
Vegan Vegana/o.
Gluten free Sin gluten.
Breakfast El desayuno.
Lunch El almuerzo.
Dinner La cena.
A snack Un pincho.
The check, please. La cuenta por favor.
Excuse me. I need help . . . Disculpame. Necesito ayuda . . .
Help! ¡Socorro!
This is an emergency. Ésto es una emergencía.
Please call the police/an ambulance. Por favor llama a la policía/una ambulancía.
A doctor Un médico.
A pharmacy Una farmacia.
I don’t feel well No me siento bien.
Blister Ampolla.
Dehydration Deshidración.
Fever Fiebre.
Cold Resfriado.
Flu Gripe.
Foot Pie.
Knee Rodilla.
Ankle Tobillo.
Leg Pierna.
Back Espalda.
Arm Brazo.
Wrist Muñeca.
Hand Mano.
Shoulder Hombro.
Neck Cuello.