Under three hours’ drive from downtown Rio, this superb national park offers visitors the chance to explore some of Brazil’s most inspirational and crowd-free landscapes. Itatiaia is wildlife rich and well served with walking trails, either self-guided or with local tour guides.
t The park’s boulder-strewn peaks reaching into the clouds
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t A lone hiker following a path through the rugged landscape of Parque Nacional do Itatiaia
Brazil’s oldest national park, Parque Nacional do Itatiaia (Itatiaia National Park) was established in 1937 to protect the high alpine meadows and the gradations of thick Mata Atlântica, or Atlantic rainforest, that cover the park’s steep mountain ridges. The scenery here is magnificent. The park’s highest regions are capped with by boulders, eroded into organic shapes by millions of years of rain and wind. They sit on expansive grassland coursed by babbling brooks, which become fast-flowing rivers once they reach the warmer forested areas below. Here they tumble, roar, and fall over waterfalls and rapids. The trees around them are busy with primates. Curious brown capuchin monkeys are a common sight along the numerous trails. Scarcer are the shy muriqui monkeys, a threatened species. Birdlife, too, is prolific in the park, home to 350 species, many of which are endangered; the park plays a crucial role in their conservation. Dusky-legged guans wander along the few paved roads, brilliant seven-colored and black and gold cotingas flit about with toucans, and the early morning air buzzes with the sound of hummingbirds.
The park can be crowded on weekends, but during the week the trails are quiet. The ranger station provides simple walking maps with routes clearly marked.
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stay Pousada Esmeralda Comfortable chalets with a spring-fed outdoor pool. ⌂ Estrada do Parque Nacional ∑ pousadaesmeralda.com.br \\\ Hotel Donati Nestled in the center of the park, this historic hotel organizes walking tours and wildlife guides for guests. ⌂ Estrada do Parque Nacional ∑ hoteldonati.com/br \\\ |
This is the only part of Rio de Janeiro State to ever see snow, albeit rarely.
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t Thick riverine vegetation and evergreen rainforests of the Mata Atlântica
Stretching from northern Brazil south to Uruguay, the Mata Atlântica (Atlantic rainforest) is a green belt of tropical biodiversity, covering some 38,610 sq miles (100,000 sq km). Around 40 percent of its 20,000 plant species and 30 percent of its 2,315 animal species are endemic. Closer to the Equator, tall trees drip with epiphytes, orchids, and entangled creepers. Further south, forests house the distinctive araucaria, monkey-puzzle pines. Besides its abundant wildlife, it shares its habitat with around 60 percent of Brazil's population.
ENDANGERED ECOSYSTEM
t The endangered golden lion tamarin, Brazil’s tiny, long-tailed primate
Squeezed out by ever-expanding coastal cities, particularly Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo, most of the Mata Atlântica has disappeared. Of the original forest that once carpeted the coastline, less than 7 percent remains. The rainforest has a high proportion of endemic plants and animal species, so once the forest habitat has gone, species extinction will inevitably follow. Besides making way for cities, ports, and their associated infrastructure, much of the Mata Atlântica has fallen victim to deforestation, replaced by cattle pastures, logging, and crops, most notably soya. Soya plantations have spread far and wide across South America, including this rainforest. Nearly all the soymeal produced becomes animal feed. With the world’s insatiable appetite for meat and soya products, demand is expected to double over the next 50 years.
SUSTAINABLE HOPE
t Exposed roots of a dense mangrove forest near Romana Island in the Amazon region
Despite losing much of the Mata Atlântica, some residents are trying to protect what is left. One of the forest’s pin-up animals is the golden lion tamarin, a tiny, long-tailed primate. Fewer than 3,500 of these endangered animals remain in the wild, some inhabiting the Reserva Biológica Poço das Antas, a 28,000-acre (11,331-ha) forest reserve near Rio de Janeiro. Villagers offer ecotourism tours; guiding visitors around the forests in hope of a glimpse of the tamarins. Similar ecotourism projects have been established for the forest flora and fauna.
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Asociação Mico-Leão-Dourado
⌂ BR-101, Km 214, Silva Jardim, Rio de Janeiro (state), 28820-000 # Adv booking only ∑ micoleao.org.br
This association offers unforgettable visits to the heart of the golden lion tamarin's habitat.
Legado das Aguas
⌂ Rodovia Regis Bittencourt, Km 394, Miracatu, São Paulo (state), 11850-000 ¢ Mon ∑ legadodasaguas.com.br
Navigate the forest's incredible scenery on a land or water tour.
Reserva Ecológica de Guapiaçu (REGUA)
⌂ Estrada de Guapiaçu, s/no, Guapiaçu, Cachoeiras de Macacu, Rio de Janeiro (state), 28680-000 # Adv booking only ∑ regua.org
One of South America’s most biodiverse and endemic-rich biomes, this wildlife- and bird-watching site has lush wetlands, trails, and a visitor lodge.
Eco Lodge Itororó
⌂ Estrada do Curuzu, Nova Friburgo, Rio de Janeiro (state), 28616-330 # Adv booking only ∑ ecolodge-itororo.com
This secluded eco-lodge offers trekking expeditions over the Organ Mountain Range and bird-watching tours.