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Fortaleza

Ceará k 4 miles (6 km) S of town @ n Ceara Convention and Visitors Bureau, Rua Gilberto Studart 55, Cocó; www.visiteceara.com

With pretty urban beaches, a pleasant climate, and a cooling breeze coming off the ocean, Fortaleza has an appealing resort-like atmosphere. Founded in the early 1500s, it remained a small town until after Brazilian independence in 1822, when it rapidly developed into one of Brazil’s largest ports. There is a small historic section near the old port, but beyond that Fortaleza has a spacious, modern feel.

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t The dazzling skyscrapers of Fortaleza, sprawling right to the ocean’s edge

Experience Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and Ceará

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n Double-tap image to read the labels

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Theatro José de Alencar

Praça José de Alencar s/n § (85) 3101 2583 # 9am–noon, 2–5pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat & Sun

Named after one of Brazil’s famous novelists, the Theatro José de Alencar was built in 1908. The theater’s high-Victorian cast-iron structure was imported from Glasgow. Additional decorative elements, such as the stained-glass windows and interior furnishings, were done in the Art Nouveau style.

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Museu do Ceará

Rua São Paulo 51 § (85) 3101 2609 # 9am–5pm Tue–Sat

Inaugurated in 1932, this was the first major public museum to be opened in Fortaleza. Today it is housed in the former Legislative Assembly building and possesses a vast archive of things relating to the history of Ceará – coins, paintings, furniture, indigenous artifacts, folk art, and more. Its most prized exhibit is the dagger belonging to notorious outlaw Lampião.

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Mercado Central

Rua Maestro Alberto Nepomuceno 199 # 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8am–4pm Sat, 8am–1pm Sun mercadocentraldefortaleza.com.br

Fortaleza’s huge indoor central market is the cheapest place in town for fine leatherwork, lace, or textiles, with more than 500 stalls across four stories. The market is also an excellent place to sample local ice cream made from regional fruits.

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Centro de Turismo

Rua Senador Pompeu 350 § (85) 3212 3014 # 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8am–4pm Sat, 8am–noon Sun

This former 19th-century prison has been transformed into a bustling market, with a different shop in each of the old jail cells. The market specializes in local artisan handicrafts, including fine lace, leather, and figurines. The market is a good place to stock up on top-quality cashew nuts, and there is also a tourist office here.

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Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar

Rua Dragão do Mar 81, Iracema # 8am–10pm Mon–Thu (to 11pm Fri–Sun) dragaodomar.org.br

Fortaleza’s cultural center is a striking white building with a circular design. It houses the Museum of Contemporary Art, a history and anthropology museum, a planetarium, and a cinema and theater venue.

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Praia de Cumbuco

21 miles (33 km) W of town

Cumbuco is the city’s favorite beach playground, with the Lagoa da Banana offering a wide variety of watersports. Lagoa do Parnamirim, just south of Cumbuco, is ringed by tall dunes, making it perfect for “ski-bunda” (bum-skiing), where skiers slide on wooden boards down a dune into the lagoon.

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Praia do Futuro

Praia do Futuro is one of the best beaches in the city for swimming and is also a nightlife destination, with many restaurants and several beach discos that are popular on weekends. On Thursday nights, Fortalezans head to open-air restaurants such as Chico do Caranguejo Praia to feast on fresh crab and listen to live forró music.

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Praia de Iracema

Though called a beach, this is actually a former port, now transformed into the city’s most popular nightlife and dining area. The focal point of the area is a long pier, built in 1920, and modeled on the piers of Brighton, in the UK.

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Praia de Meireles

This pretty urban beach is lined with thick groves of coconut palms and waterside cafés. Although the water is not good for swimming, this is a great spot for strolling, sunbathing, or people-watching.

Did You Know?

Slavery was abolished in Fortaleza in 1884, four years before the rest of Brazil.

Experience Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and Ceará

The Story of Iracema

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Written by José de Alencar in 1865, this story tells of the love that a Tabajara princess bore for Martim, a white Portuguese settler. Iracema uses magic to make Martim fall in love with her, and is ostracized by her community. Away from her people, she loses her magical powers and her lover. A statue of Iracema on Meireles beach is sited where, according to legend, she stood awaiting the return of her beloved.