t Praia de Tambaú, one of João Pessoa’s scenic beaches
t Praia de Tambaú, one of João Pessoa’s scenic beaches
Brazil’s third-oldest city, João Pessoa maintains an air of old-world charm, with a host of well-restored colonial churches, convents, and monasteries. Local visitors, however, flock here mainly for the easy atmosphere of its great white sandy beaches. The dense tropical forest that once covered the coastal strip of Paraíba now thrives only in patches, one of which lies within João Pessoa, forming one of the largest areas of natural wilderness in any city in the world.
One of the less developed cities in Brazil, João Pessoa has a small historic core, which remains little changed. Modern João Pessoa gravitates toward the beaches.
One of the city’s most striking churches, Igreja de São Francisco sits majestically atop a hill. The most striking feature of this 18th-century church is the tower topped with an oriental dome. The altar contains an 18th-century statue of St. Benedict, one of the church's few black saints. The church is part of the larger Centro Cultural de Sao Francisco complex, which also includes the Convento de Santo Antônio, and a museum of popular and sacred art.
Praia do Cabo Branco is a beach area looking out over the easternmost point in the Amer-icas, Ponta do Seixas (Seixas Point). The point is topped by a small lighthouse, with a monument marking the spot.
Actually a large coral reef, Ilha de Picãozinho is a popular spot north of the center. At low tide, boats take visitors over to swim and snorkel in the natural tide pools.
Another low-tide attraction is Ilha de Areia Vermelha (Island of Red Sand), 12 miles (20 km) north of town. For approxim-ately 25 days every month, low tide exposes a beautiful beach of striking red-orange sand. It makes a perfect spot for swimming, snorkeling, or sunbathing. It is accessible from Praia da Camboinhas.
t Colorful houses in the old center of João Pessoa
⌂ Praça São Francisco, Centro Histórico § (83) 3221 0779 # 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat & Sun
Experience Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and Ceará
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stay Slow Hostel One of the friendliest hostels you’ll come across in Brazil. Rooms are spacious, common areas inviting, and only minutes from the beach. ⌂ Av Cajazeiras 108, Manaíra, João Pessoa ∑ slowhostel.net \\\ Verdegreen Conveniently located by the beach, this eco-designed hotel features modern rooms, and an outdoor pool. ⌂ Av João Maurício 255, Manaíra, João Pessoa ∑ verdegreen.com.br \\\ |
t Cyclists approaching the Lajedo do Pai Mateus, or “Devil’s Marbles”
Situated in the Cariri Paraíbano, a large plateau in the Serra da Borborema, Cariri is the point at which the sertão region begins. Tours in this area of aboriginal rock carvings and huge rock formations can be organized by Cariri Ecotours.
One of the formations, the Lajedo do Pai Mateus, sits on the private grounds of a fazenda. A vast slab of bare granite, it is littered with boulders bigger than houses, as if a giant had scattered their collection of pebbles – unsurprisingly, it’s known as the “Devil’s Marbles” locally.
From the plateau, there are breathtaking views of the Borborema valley. The diverse landscape consists of small trees, bushes, cacti, and bromeliads. Sightings of emus, an ostrich-like avian (though considerably smaller), are common in this area.
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⌂ Ponta Negra ∑ caririecotours.com.br
Experience Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and Ceará
One of the most popular folklore traditions of the northeast, the Festas Juninas began as a peasant celebration of the corn harvest and the June solstice, the longest night of the year in the Southern Hemisphere. June also coincided with the feasts of St. Anthony, St. John, and St. Peter. Over the years, the pagan rituals and Catholic events were melded together. The atmosphere is burlesque, as partygoers dress up in peasant outfits and perform square dances to the sounds of forró.
t Watching the sunset from the dunes at Genipabu
The main reason to visit Genipabu is to view the magnificent dunes. This small town is located north of Natal, close to the edge of an impressive landscape of moving sands that pile up into high dunes and plunge down to the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. Visitors can rent sandboards or dune buggies to ride up and down the dunes. Note that the Parque Dunas de Genipabu, an area of 164-ft- (50-m-) tall shifting dunes, is off-limits to all but licensed buggy drivers.
Although buggy rides are very popular in this area, these motorized vehicles have been known to have a negative effect on the formation of dunes and growth of local vegatation. For a more gentle and environmentally friendly experience, hike up the ridges for spectacular views of the coast. The best time of day to visit the Parque das Dunas is in the afternoon, in order to enjoy the lovely golden sunset over the dunes.
t The Forte dos Reis Magos, looking toward the city of Natal
Natal is a pleasant, modern, and safe city, increasingly sought out as a sunshine destination by winter-weary Europeans. It has several attractions, including beautiful beaches, sand hills, lagoons, unusual sand art, and an incredible nightlife.
The city and its most famous landmark, Forte dos Reis Magos (Fort of the Magi), date back to December 25, 1598, when the Portuguese established a fort and settlement at the mouth of the Rio Potengi. In honor of the season, the city was named Natal, the Portuguese word for Christmas. The fort was named after the three wise kings of the east who had traveled to Bethlehem bearing gifts. The Dutch occupied the fort in 1633, upgrading it into its current five-pointed formation before turning it back over to the Portuguese in 1654. Access to the fort is via a narrow pedestrian walkway. At high tide, the fort is cut off from land by the waves. Visitors have the full run of the Fort of the Magi, from the garrisons and the mess hall to the high ramparts, which offer terrific views of the city skyline.
Natal was never a large trading center, and there are few historic buildings. The city’s 19th-century penitentiary has been converted into the Centro de Turismo, a showcase for regional arts and crafts. All of the dozens of prison cells along four corridors have been transformed into shops selling leatherwork, lace, ceramics, hammocks, and figurines from northeastern folk festivals. A restaurant and a cafeteria offer some regional dishes. On Thursday evenings, the courtyard of the old prison becomes an outdoor dance hall, as the center plays host to forró com o turista, an evening of forró dancing, with live music and instructors on hand to help shy and left-footed foreigners with the dance steps.
Most visitors to Natal stay in Ponta Negra, a pleasant waterfront neighborhood in a modern part of the city featuring a lovely long beach with good waves for surfing. At the far end of the beach, the Morro do Careca, a towering 390-ft (120-m) sand dune, is now off-limits to climbers because of the danger of erosion.
On the coast between the old downtown and the modern parts of Natal there stands the beautiful Parque das Dunas, a 12-sq-mile (6-sq-km) reserve of coastal dunes and native vegetation, which can only be visited with a guide.
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⌂ Praia do Forte § (84) 3211 3820 # 8am–4pm daily
⌂ Rua Aderbal de Figueiredo 980 § (84) 3211 6218 # 9am–7pm daily
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⌂ Av Alexandrino de Alencar s/n § (84) 3201 3985 # 8am–6pm Tue–Sun
The Vale dos Dinossauros contains fossilized footprints of over 80 dinosaur species.
Brazil’s most important prehistoric site, Sousa is located deep in the Paraíba interior, almost on the border with Ceará. It was a large shallow lake where hundreds of dinosaur species roamed, 130 million years ago. Prehistoric tracks can still be seen on the dry riverbed of the Rio de Peixe, also known as the Vale dos Dinossauros. The largest track forms a perfect 164-ft- (50-m-) long trail across the riverbed.
Scattered throughout the valley are numerous other tracks, most of which have not yet been catalogued or protected. Some, indeed, have yet to be discovered. Grande Cariri Ecotours can combine trips in this area with visits to Cariri.
⌂ Rua Joaquim Fagundes, Natal ∑ caririecotours.com.br
Maracajaú’s coral reefs offer one of the best spots for snorkeling along Brazil’s north coast. The reefs lie approximately 4 miles (7 km) offshore. At low tide, the receding ocean leaves the reefs from just 3 to 9 ft (1 to 3 m) underwater, and forms natural pools, called parrachos, which combine the water with an array of marine life. They are shallow enough for snorkelers and swimmers to observe dozens of species of colorful, tropical fish. The water is crystal clear and warm year-round, making it a popular destination for swimmers. Tour operators offer scuba-diving trips, but the water is so shallow, it is hardly worth the expense.
The best way to reach Maracajaú is by a dune buggy, departing from Natal (or Genipabu) and traveling north along the coastline. Check the tide tables to time the journey in order to arrive in Maracajaú at, or a few hours before, low tide. The large Mo-Noa Park, replete with slides and swimming pools, en route to the coral reefs in Maracajaú, is an enjoyable stop for children.
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# 10am–4pm daily ∑ parkmanoa.com
The Costa Branca lies in the far northwest of Rio Grande do Norte. Starting at Porto do Mangue, it stretches across the villages of Areia Branca and Grossos and ends at Tibaú. The name “Costa Branca” refers to both the white dunes and the salt works found along this coast. The region has not yet been discovered by mass tourism, and its beaches, mangroves, dunes, and lagoons are blissfully devoid of crowds. Praia do Rosado, just west of Porto do Mangue, is famous for its pinkish sand dunes. The red soil underneath the shifting network of dunes mixes with the white sand of the beach giving them an unusual and distinctly soft, pink hue.
The coast’s largest village, Areia Branca, offers the best tourist facilities for a few days exploring the region. Tibaú is the last village in Rio Grande do Norte, bordering Ceará. Its beach is mostly used by residents of Mossoró. Local artisans use the colored sand to make artistic designs inside small glass bottles.
Located 34 miles (55 km) inland from the coast, Mossoró is, in many ways, the archetypal sertão town of the northeastern interior.
The main places of interest in Mossoró are connected to a dramatic moment in history in 1924, when the townspeople fought off an attack by the legendary bandit leader Lampião and his gang of outlaws. The event is still commemorated every June 13 with great ceremony.
Mossoró is an ideal jumping-off point for visiting the Lajedo de Soledade, an archaeological site. Its limestone rocks were formed more than 90 million years ago. Tours begin at the visitors’ center, at the Museu de Soledade. From here, visitors can depart on a guided walk featuring 10,000-year-old rock paintings, and impressive fossils containing the remains of a range of extinct animals, including saber-toothed tigers.
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§ (84) 3333 1017 # 8am–5pm Tue–Sun ∑ lajedodesoledade.org.br
t The cityscape of Campina Grande
Ideal for experiencing the unique sertão (backcountry) culture, Campina Grande is a large market town with some degree of industrial growth.
The autumn harvest festival, Festas Juninas, although celebrated everywhere in the northeast, is biggest in Campina Grande. The vast, fairground, Parque do Povo, includes several smaller theme parks such as the Sítio São João, a reproduction of a traditional ranch where visitors can observe the rural nordeste lifestyle.
The fascinating Museu de Arte Assis Chateaubriand has a striking collection of modern works, with a focus on the work of artists from the northeast.
t Dancers at the city’s lively Festas Juninas
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§ (83) 3310 6100 # During Festas Juninas and other local events
⌂ Av Floriano Peixoto 718, Centro § (83) 3341 1947 # 1:30–6:30pm Mon–Fri
Experience Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and Ceará
Repentista is a popular form of entertainment in areas such as Campina Grande, in the interior of the northeast. Singers engage in a two-man musical duel, making their rhymes up on the spot, trying to score points off their opponent. Musicians sometimes accompany themselves with a tambourine or the viola nordestina, developed from the Portuguese seven-string guitar. The singing duelists take turns singing out a stanza, trying to win the favor of the audience by making fun of their opponent.
t Gliding over the striking red cliffs at Canoa Quebrada’s beach
In the 1970s, Canoa Quebrada transformed from a sleepy fishing village into a popular hippie hangout; it is now a mainstream beach resort. According to a legend, the name, meaning “Broken Canoe,” originated with a Portuguese skipper who wrecked his ship close to shore and donated the useless craft to local fishermen. Never having seen such a craft before, locals named the site after it.
The beaches of Canoa Quebrada, featuring red cliffs, fine sand, and offshore reefs, attract many visitors today. The bustling village is known for its cafés and restaurants, and for the bars and clubs lining the main cobblestoned street. Even at the busiest times, however, it is not difficult to get away from the crowds and find a spot on one of the more deserted beaches. Buggy tours are a popular way to get out of town. The tour to Ponta Grossa, 18 miles (30 km) southeast, travels along miles of empty beaches framed by red sandstone cliffs. Other activities include kitesurfing, and sailing on a jangada (traditional fishing boat).
About 6 miles (10 km) southwest is the small town of Aracati. It is one of the few historic towns in this part of northeast Brazil. An important center for the 18th-century cattle industry, Aracati has several buildings dating back to this time. Most noteworthy is the Mercado Central (Central Market), still used today.
Experience Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and Ceará
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eat Samba Rock Vibrant central bar and restaurant with live music. ⌂ Praca Principal, Jericoacara \\\ Naturalmente Eco-conscious café serving salads, crepes, and açaí bowls. ⌂ Rua da Praia s/n, Jericoacoara \\\ Kaze Izakaya Intimate sushi spot with a dimly lit outside deck. ⌂ Rua São Francisco s/n, Jericoacara \\\ Ello Restaurante Top-end restaurant offering a six-course tasting menu. ⌂ Rua s/n, Jericoacoara \\\ |
The isolated village of Jericoacoara is a beach lover’s paradise. The village consists of five streets made of sand; in 2002, the entire region was declared a national park, putting a complete halt to the construction of new buildings.
Surrounded by dunes and lagoons, Jeri (as locals call it) is a place for those who like water, waves, and wind. Windsurfers and sailors from around the world flock here from June to January.
Dune buggies are used to explore the surrounding beaches and dunes, and visit the various lagoons, the most beautiful of which are Lagoa Azul and Lagoa do Paraíso, located about 12 miles (20 km) east of the village. Jeri’s postcard view is that of Pedra Furada, a basalt outcrop on the edge of the sea, about a 15-minute walk from the village. The red rock glows in the late afternoon light.
Insider Tip
Pay for an afternoon guided horse ride to get some of the sand dunes to yourself. You’ll ride away from the crowds and can take beautiful shots on the sand as the sun sets, with nobody else around.
t Ubajara Cave, Parque Nacional de Ubajara
Located almost exactly halfway between Fortaleza and Teresina, the Parque Nacional de Ubajara is the smallest national park in Brazil. Situated close to the small town of Ubajara, the park features the Ubajara Cave. The entrance to the cave can be reached either by cable car or via a steep, marked trail through the forest. The 3,937-ft- (1,200-m-) long cave is filled with stalactites and stalagmites, the work of several centuries of erosion and calcium deposition.
Fifteen chambers totaling 3,674 ft (1,120 m) have been mapped, of which 1,377 ft (420 m) are open to visitors. Eight galleries are lit up to display some of the amazing formations that have taken shape inside the cave.
The elevation gain is just over 1,640 ft (500 m), and the trail leading up to the cave, though rather strenuous, offers some spectacular views of the Serra da Ipiapaba, as well as several waterfalls and beautiful natural pools. The hike takes about two hours, one-way.
t Cable car to the cave