MAKES 1 CUP (ENOUGH FOR ABOUT 4 DOZEN OYSTERS)
Chef John Besh, the charming and talented chef/owner of many of New Orleans’ top restaurants, makes one of the best slow-roasted, fennel-scented, crackling-covered pork loin roasts (aka porchetta) on the planet. Inspired by a version we cooked together for a charity event at his home, I came up with this marmalade. In addition to making a crazy-delicious grilled oyster topping, it’s also an unbeatable condiment for scallops or pork chops, sandwiches, eggs, and cheese plates.
½ pound thick-cut bacon, cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces
1 small fennel bulb with fronds, bulb halved, cored, and thinly sliced; fronds finely chopped
1 large shallot, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
½ teaspoon freshly grated orange zest
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
Kosher salt
In a medium saucepan, cook the bacon over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, about 8 minutes. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat.
Reduce the heat to medium, then stir in the sliced fennel bulb, shallot, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, sage, rosemary, zest, pepper flakes, and a pinch of salt, then add ½ cup water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally and reducing the heat as necessary to keep the mixture barely simmering, until thickened, 50 minutes to 1 hour.
Remove the marmalade from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Transfer to a blender or food processor and pulse, scraping the sides of the blender jar or food processor as needed, until you have a coarse marmalade. Dollop the marmalade on the grilled oysters, then sprinkle with the fennel fronds.
The marmalade keeps, in an airtight container and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature or gently warm before serving.