SERVES 4 TO 8
One day, my friend Frank Newbold and I found ourselves on the way to the Louvre at lunchtime. We passed Café Ruc, which is one of the Costes brothers’ restaurants, and spotted two seats outside under the awning. They serve traditional French food, but with a modern twist. This was inspired by the delicious croque monsieurs we ate there. These sandwiches are on the small side, so serve one or two per person, depending on appetites.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups hot milk
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of nutmeg
12 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated (5 cups)
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
16 slices white sandwich bread, crusts removed
Dijon mustard
8 ounces baked Virginia ham, sliced but not paper thin
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Melt the butter over low heat in a small saucepan and add the flour all at once, stirring with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes. Slowly pour the hot milk into the butter–flour mixture and cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce is thickened. Off the heat add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, ½ cup grated Gruyère, and the Parmesan and set aside.
To toast the bread, place the slices on two baking sheets and bake for 5 minutes. Turn each slice and bake for another 2 minutes, until toasted.
Lightly brush half the toasted breads with mustard, add a slice of ham to each, and sprinkle with half the remaining Gruyère. Top with another piece of toasted bread. Slather the tops with the cheese sauce, sprinkle with the remaining Gruyère, and bake the sandwiches for 5 minutes. Turn on the broiler and broil for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the topping is bubbly and lightly browned. Serve hot.
I use Pepperidge Farm white bread.
SERVES 2 TO 3
This really has the WOW! factor. I was a little afraid to attempt a soufflé (think Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina) but after you’ve made this once, you’ll agree that it’s really easy and so delicious. I generally hate recipes that say “serve immediately,” but this is worth it.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the dish
¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for sprinkling
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup scalded milk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of nutmeg
4 extra-large egg yolks, at room temperature
3 ounces good Roquefort cheese, chopped
5 extra-large egg whites, at room temperature
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter the inside of an 8-cup soufflé dish (7½ inches in diameter × 3¼ inches deep) and sprinkle evenly with Parmesan.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. With a wooden spoon, stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in the hot milk, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon black pepper, the cayenne, and nutmeg. Cook over low heat, whisking constantly, for 1 minute, until smooth and thick.
Off the heat, while still hot, whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time. Stir in the Roquefort and the ¼ cup of Parmesan and transfer to a large mixing bowl.
Put the egg whites, cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat on low speed for 1 minute, on medium speed for 1 minute, then finally on high speed until they form firm, glossy peaks.
Whisk one quarter of the egg whites into the cheese sauce to lighten and then fold in the rest. Pour into the soufflé dish, then smooth the top. Draw a large circle on top with the spatula to help the soufflé rise evenly, and place in the middle of the oven. Turn the temperature down to 375 degrees. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes (don’t peek!) until puffed and brown. Serve immediately.
To make in advance, prepare the recipe through adding the cheeses up to 2 hours ahead. Keep covered at room temperature and then proceed with the recipe just before baking.
Salad with Warm Goat Cheese
MAKES 4 SALADS
Jeffrey and I ate this for lunch at our local café and I ran home to try it myself. It’s easy enough to make for a quiet lunch alone and elegant enough for company. Ask your cheese shop for small, round fresh goat cheese (chévres) crottins; they’re flavorful but soft enough to melt onto the bread.
3 or 4 fresh small goat cheeses (crottins)
8 slices of country white bread
Good olive oil
Salad greens for 4 salads
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Cut each crottin horizontally into 2 or 3 half-inch slices. Place the bread on a baking sheet, brush lightly with olive oil, and place a slice of goat cheese on each piece of bread. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the bread is toasted and the cheese is warm.
Meanwhile, place the salad greens in a large bowl and toss with enough vinaigrette to moisten. Divide the salad among 4 lunch plates. Place 2 slices of toasted bread on each salad, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.
Any assortment of flavorful greens is good for this salad.
SERVES 4
The first time my husband took me to Paris we splurged on a restaurant called Le Coupe-Chou. Jeffrey had a delicious eggplant gratin, which he’s been asking me to make ever since. This version of that dish was inspired by Richard Olney in his wonderful book Simple French Food.
Good olive oil, for frying
1½ pounds eggplant, unpeeled, sliced ½ inch thick
½ cup ricotta cheese
2 extra-large eggs
½ cup half-and-half
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup good bottled marinara sauce, such as Rao’s
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Heat about 1/8 inch of olive oil in a very large frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is almost smoking, add several slices of eggplant and cook, turning once, until they are evenly browned on both sides and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Be careful, it splatters! Transfer the cooked eggplant slices to paper towels to drain. Add more oil, heat it, and add more eggplant until all the slices are cooked.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together the ricotta, eggs, half-and-half, ½ cup of the Parmesan, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
In each of four individual gratin dishes, place a layer of eggplant slices, then sprinkle with Parmesan, salt, and pepper and spoon on ¼ cup of the marinara sauce. Next, add a second layer of eggplant, more salt and pepper, one quarter of the ricotta mixture, and finally a tablespoon of grated Parmesan on top.
Place the gratins on a baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes; lower the heat to 375 degrees and bake for another 20 minutes, or until the custard sets and the top is browned. Serve warm.
If you don’t have small gratin dishes, layer the eggplant slices and other ingredients in one large shallow dish and bake until hot and bubbly.
PissaladièrePROVENÇAL PIZZA
EACH PIZZA SERVES 4 TO 5
Many dishes from Provence take their inspiration from Italy, which is right next door. Pissaladière is usually made in a large rectangle like a tart. It’s great with a salad and a glass of wine for a light summer lunch. You can certainly skip the anchovies. This recipe makes enough dough for two pizzas, so double the topping or freeze one dough for another time.
For the topping (makes 1 pissaladière)
¼ cup good olive oil, plus extra for brushing
2 pounds yellow onions, halved and sliced ¼ inch thick
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 whole cloves of garlic
For the dough (makes 2 pissaladières)
1¼ cups warm (100 to 110 degrees) water
2 envelopes dry yeast
1 tablespoon honey
3 tablespoons good olive oil
4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading
2 teaspoons kosher salt
To assemble each pissaladière
Cornmeal, for baking
12 to 18 anchovy fillets
12 French black olives, preferably oil-cured, pitted
For the topping, heat the olive oil in a very large sauté pan and cook the onions, thyme, salt, pepper, and garlic over low heat for 45 minutes, until the onions are sweet and cooked but not browned. Toss the onions from time to time. After 30 minutes, take out the garlic, chop it roughly, and add it back to the onions.
Meanwhile, for the dough, combine the water, yeast, honey, and olive oil in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. (If the bowl is cold, start with warmer water so it’s at least 100 degrees when you add the yeast.) Add 3 cups of the flour, then the salt, and mix on medium-low speed. While mixing, add 1 more cup of flour, or just enough to make a soft dough. Mix the dough on medium-low speed for about 10 minutes, until smooth, sprinkling it with flour to keep it from sticking to the bowl. When the dough is ready, turn it out onto a floured board and knead it by hand a dozen times. It should be smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a well-oiled bowl and turn it to cover lightly with oil. Cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel. Allow to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Divide the dough into 2 equal parts, rolling each one into a smooth ball. If you’re only making one pissaladière, place one ball on a baking sheet and cover it loosely with a damp towel. Allow the dough to rest for 10 minutes. (If you’re not using the other dough, wrap it well and refrigerate or freeze it for the next time.) Roll the dough lightly with a rolling pin, then stretch it to a 10 × 15-inch rectangle and place it on a baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal.
Spoon the onion topping onto the dough, leaving a ¾-inch border all around. Artfully arrange the anchovies and olives on top, brush the edge of the dough with olive oil, and bake for 15 minutes, or until the crust is crisp. Serve hot on a cutting board.
Really good olives rarely come pitted, but it’s easy to pit them yourself. Smash each olive lightly with the flat side of a knive to split, and pick out the pit.
You can make the dough early and refrigerate it for up to 4 hours. Allow it to come to room temperature before proceeding.
This is best right out of the oven. To make ahead, prepare the dough and the onions separately, then assemble and bake the pissaladière just before serving.
SERVES 6
No one has taught me more about cooking than my dear friend Anna Pump, who owns the wonderful specialty food store in Sagaponack, New York, called Loaves and Fishes. She also writes cookbooks that I use all the time. This tart is inspired by a tart in her first book, The Loaves and Fishes Cookbook.
1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the board
Kosher salt
13 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, divided
3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
¾ cup chopped shallots (3 to 4 shallots)
10½ ounces garlic-and-herb soft goat cheese, such as Montrachet
1 cup heavy cream
3 extra-large eggs
¼ cup chopped basil leaves
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
For the crust, put the flour and ¼ teaspoon salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Cut 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) of the butter into large dice, add to the bowl, and pulse until the butter is the size of peas. With the machine running, add the ice water all at once and process until the dough becomes crumbly. Don’t overprocess. Dump the dough out on a floured board, gather it loosely into a ball, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Roll the dough on a well-floured board and fit it into a 9-inch tart pan with a removable sides, rolling the pin over the top to cut off the excess dough. Butter one side of a square of aluminum foil and fit it, butter side down, into the tart pan. Fill the foil with rice or beans. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove the beans and foil from the tart shell, prick the bottom all over with a fork, and bake for another 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of butter in a small pan and sauté the shallots over low heat for 5 minutes, or until tender. Place the goat cheese in the bowl of the food processor and process until crumbly. Add the cream, eggs, basil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and the pepper and process until blended.
Scatter the cooked shallots over the bottom of the tart shell. Pour the goat cheese mixture over the shallots to fill the shell (if the shell has shrunk, there may be leftover filling). Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the tart is firm when shaken and the top is lightly browned. Allow to cool for 10 minutes and serve hot or at room temperature.
Lightly push the dough into the pan rather than stretching it, or the tart shell will shrink during baking.
Save the beans or rice for the next time you make a tart.
Scrambled Eggs with Truffles
SERVES 4 TO 5
Several years ago my dear friend Patricia Wells invited us for a “truffle” weekend. We cooked every dish for every meal with truffles—even breakfast! This dish is special for a holiday brunch, and the timing is perfect because fresh black truffles are in season in France from late December through February. Scrambled eggs made over a double boiler are so creamy that this is an elegant dish even without the truffles.
1 fresh black truffle (1 ounce)
16 extra-large eggs
1 cup half-and-half
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 to 5 slices
brioche or white toast, crusts removed and cut in half diagonally
Clean the truffle with a soft brush; don’t wash it! Beat the eggs, half-and-half, salt, and pepper together in a heat-proof glass bowl until combined but not frothy. Shave the truffle into the egg mixture with a truffle shaver or mandoline. If you have time, cover with plastic wrap and allow to sit in the refrigerator for a few hours. The eggs will become more infused with the flavor of the truffle.
When ready to serve, set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Cook over the water, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the eggs are thick and custardy. This will take about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat immediately.
Place two toast points on each plate and spoon the cooked eggs on top. Serve hot.
Black truffles are French and white truffles are Italian; don’t even think about using the canned ones.
These will be creamy when done. Cook until a spoon stands up in the middle.
SERVES 4
Lots of people who knew I was writing a French cookbook wanted a recipe for omelettes. I spent days making them but my heart was never really in it because I always imagined myself cooking lunch while my friends sat waiting at the table. Rori Trovato came up with the perfect solution—shirred eggs, or herb-baked eggs. They were so delicious that we were standing with our forks ready as soon as Quentin took this photograph. It’s very French and you can make them with any seasonings you like.
½
teaspoon minced fresh garlic
½ teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
½ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary leaves
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
12 extra-large eggs
¼ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Toasted French bread or
brioche, for serving
Preheat the broiler for 5 minutes and place the oven rack 6 inches below the heat.
Combine the garlic, thyme, rosemary, parsley, and Parmesan cheese and set aside. Carefully crack 3 eggs into each of 4 small bowls or teacups (you won’t be baking them in these) without breaking the yolks. (It’s very important to have all the eggs ready to go before you start cooking.)
Place four individual gratin dishes on a baking sheet. Place 1 tablespoon of cream and ½ tablespoon of butter in each dish
and place under the broiler for about 3 minutes, until hot and bubbly. Quickly, but carefully, pour 3 eggs into each gratin dish and sprinkle evenly with the herb mixture, then sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Place back under the broiler for 5 to 6 minutes, until the whites of the eggs are almost cooked. (Rotate the baking sheet once if they aren’t cooking evenly.) The eggs will continue to cook after you take them out of the oven. Allow to set for 60 seconds and serve hot with toasted bread.
You can only make as many of these as you can fit under your broiler at once. If you use smaller, deeper dishes, adjust the cooking time.
SERVES 6
Puff pastry is the essence of sophisticated French cooking, and it makes any filling elegant. Fortunately, Pepperidge Farm makes an excellent one that you can find in the freezer at your grocery store. This is a delicious lunch but also makes a great dinner for a guest who’s vegetarian.
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
2 cups chopped onions (2 onions)
1 tablespoon chopped garlic (3 cloves)
2 (10-ounce) boxes frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
1/3 cup chopped scallions, white and green parts (2 scallions)
1 cup grated Gruyère cheese
¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
4 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon dry bread crumbs, plain or seasoned
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ cup toasted pignoli (pine) nuts
2 sheets (1 box) frozen puff pastry (such as Pepperidge Farm), defrosted overnight in the refrigerator
1 extra-large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Heat the butter in a sauté pan and cook the onions over medium-low heat for 5 to 7 minutes, until tender. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Meanwhile, squeeze most of the water out of the spinach and place it in a bowl. Add the onion mixture, scallions, Gruyère, Parmesan, eggs, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and pignolis. Mix well.
Unfold one sheet of puff pastry and place it on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Spread the spinach mixture in the middle of the pastry, leaving a 1-inch border. Brush the border with the egg wash. Roll out the second piece of puff pastry on a floured board until it’s an inch larger in each direction. Place the second sheet of pastry over the spinach and seal the edges, crimping them with a fork. Brush the top with egg wash but don’t let it drip down the sides or the pastry won’t rise. Make three small slits in the pastry, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the pastry is lightly browned. Transfer to a cutting board and serve hot.
Defrost puff pastry overnight in the refrigerator. Be sure it’s still cold when you bake it.
To toast pignolis, place in a dry sauté pan over low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until lightly browned.
This can be assembled a day in advance, refrigerated, and baked before serving.
Mussels in White WineMOULES MARINIÈRES
SERVES 6
Almost every bistro in Paris has its own version of mussels in white wine. This traditional country French dish takes some cutting and chopping, but most of it can be done in advance. I serve it for lunch with lots of crusty bread for dipping in the spicy broth, or for dinner ladled over a pound of cooked linguine.
6½ pounds cultivated mussels
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon good saffron threads
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons good olive oil
2 cups chopped shallots (10 to 15 shallots)
1/3 cup minced garlic (12 to 15 cloves)
1 cup chopped canned plum tomatoes, drained (8 ounces)
¾ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup fresh thyme leaves
2 cups good white wine
4 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
To clean the mussels, put them in a large bowl with 4 quarts of water and the flour and soak for 30 minutes, or until the mussels disgorge any sand. Drain the mussels, then remove the “beard” from each with your fingers. If they’re dirty, scrub the mussels with a brush under running water. Discard any mussels whose shells aren’t tightly shut. Soak the saffron in ¼ cup hot tap water for 15 minutes and set aside.
In a large (12-quart) nonaluminum stockpot, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook for 5 minutes; then add the garlic and cook for 3 more minutes, or until
the shallots are translucent. Add the saffron with the soaking water, the tomatoes, parsley, thyme, wine, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil.
Add the mussels, stir well, then cover the pot, and cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until all the mussels are opened (discard any that do not open). With the lid on, shake the pot once or twice to be sure the mussels don’t burn on the bottom. Pour the mussels and the sauce into a large bowl and serve hot.
A mini food processor will make short work of all the chopping.
Use a buttery white wine such as Chardonnay or Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
SERVES 6
It seems as though every other street corner in Paris has a bistro that sells seafood platters outside that people take home for hors d’oeuvres. My friend Ngaere Seeler actually served this for lunch one hot summer day with a fresh corn salad and it was delicious. You can buy everything precooked or already prepared from the seafood shop and all you need to do is arrange it. How easy is that?
Crushed ice
24 raw oysters on the half shell
24 raw littleneck clams on the half shell
3 (1½ pounds) cooked lobsters, cut in half
24 cooked jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined, with tails on
Cooked Dungeness crabs, quartered (optional)
Lemons, halved
Fill a large platter with crushed ice. Place the seafood artfully on top of the ice. Serve with the sauces.
MAKES 1½ CUPS
1¼ cups good mayonnaise
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Combine all the ingredients and serve with the seafood.
MAKES 1½ CUPS
½ cup chili sauce
½ cup ketchup
3 tablespoons prepared horseradish
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
¼ teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Combine all the ingredients and serve with the seafood.
I prefer Heinz chili sauce and ketchup.
MAKES ½ CUPS
2 shallots, minced
¾ cup good champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh green herbs such as parsley, dill, and/or chives
Place the shallots, vinegar, and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook uncovered for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Add the pepper and herbs and serve with the raw oysters.
