COCONUT AND PEPPER MOUSSE WITH GUAVA SOUP
This is an example of combining European dessert techniques with the exotic fruit and spices of India to create something new, light and healthy.
SERVES 4
For the pineapple jelly
200ml pineapple juice
1 teaspoon vegetable gel powder or agar-agar
For the coconut and pepper mousse
2 leaves of gelatine
1 egg white
20g caster sugar
300g thick coconut purée
½ teaspoon black peppercorns, finely ground
For the guava soup
250ml guava juice
1 sprig of mint leaves, finely chopped
2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
juice of ½ lemon
various exotic fruit, such as melons, papaya, dragon fruit and pineapple, cut into 1cm dice, to decorate
coriander cress to garnish
To make the pineapple jelly, put the pineapple juice in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Whisk in the vegetable gel or agar-agar, then pour into a shallow tray and leave to cool and set. Cover and chill until required.
To make the coconut and pepper mousse, put the leaves of gelatine in a bowl with water to cover and leave to soak for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, beat the egg white until soft peaks form, then add the sugar and continue beating until a stiff, glossy meringue forms. After the gelatine has soaked, lift the leaves out of the water and squeeze to remove any water. Place the squeezed gelatine in a small pan over a low heat to melt, or microwave on Low. Add the melted gelatine to the meringue and stir in. Add the coconut purée and black pepper and fold them in, then divide the mixture between 4 moulds and chill until set.
To make the guava soup, mix all the ingredients together and chill until required.
When ready to serve, gently dip the moulds containing the mousse in hot water, then invert them and unmould into 4 soup bowls.
Unmould the pineapple jelly and cut it into small decorative shapes or into discs equal in size to the mousse. Divide the soup between the bowls, then garnish with the pineapple jelly and exotic fruit and serve quickly.
LEMON POTS WITH KALA KHATTA SORBET AND INDIAN SPICED CHOCOLATE BISCUITS
Kala khatta is one of my favourite flavours of the ice-lollies I used to enjoy as a child in India. In the days before ice cream was easily available, the ice lolly vendor’s arrival was eagerly awaited on hot, balmy afternoons during the long summer holidays. Here at Cinnamon Kitchen, we’ve tried to re-create the memories of those hot summers with this sharp, acidic dessert. A hint of lemongrass adds an Indian flavour to the otherwise traditionally French lemon pots.
SERVES 6
For the lemon pots
300ml double cream
100g sugar
1 stick of lemongrass, outer layer removed and bruised
grated zest of 3 lemons
6 egg yolks
juice of 2 lemons
fresh redcurrants, to decorate
fresh mint leaves, to decorate
lemon slices, to decorate
For the kala khatta sorbet
500ml water
150g sugar
50g glucose powder
340g kala khatta syrup (or use 680ml blackberry juice boiled until reduced by half and left to cool, or 340ml crème de mûre)
25ml lemon juice
For the Indian-spiced chocolate biscuits
85g butter, softened
70g soft brown sugar
185g caster sugar
1 egg white
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
150g plain white flour
60g cocoa powder
4 pinches of ground black pepper
4 pinches of red chilli powder or cayenne
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1 teaspoon ajowan seeds
white chocolate, melted, to decorate
Firstly, make the sorbet. Pour the water, sugar and glucose into a pan and gently bring to a boil, reduce the heat and allow to simmer for 3–4 minutes. Remove the sorbet syrup from the heat, set aside and cool to room temperature. In a separate bowl combine the kala khatta syrup or blackberry purée and lemon juice and mix with the sorbet syrup. Depending on the size of the ice cream machine, pour the mixture in batches and allow 25 minutes of churning before transferring the mixture into containers for freezing.
Now make the lemon pots. Put the cream, sugar, lemongrass and lemon zest in a heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring. Beat the egg yolks in a heatproof bowl and stir in the lemon juice, then whisk in the cream mixture, whisking constantly. Strain the mixture into 6 ramekins or other ovenproof containers, (more or fewer, depending on their size).
Place the ramekins in a roasting tray half full of hot water. Bake in an oven preheated to 150°C/Gas Mark 2 for 30 minutes, or until just set on the outside edge, but still wobbly in the centre. Remove from the tray and leave to cool, then chill until required.
To make the biscuits, using an electric mixer, cream the butter until smooth. Add both sugars and continue beating, on high speed, for one minute until fully incorporated. Add the egg white and vanilla and beat until smooth, scraping down the side of the bowl, as necessary. Sift over the flour, cocoa powder, ground spices, salt and bicarbonate of soda and beat, on a low speed, until a soft dough forms. Stir in the ajowan seeds.
Divide the dough into 2 equal portions, then use your hands to roll into ‘logs’ 2.5cm thick. Wrap tightly in clingfilm and chill for at least 10 minutes.
To bake, cut off slices 2–3mm thick and arrange on an oiled baking sheet. Transfer to an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and bake for 11 minutes. Remove the biscuits from the oven and allow them to cool on wire racks. When cool, drizzle with white chocolate and place in the fridge to set, then put in an airtight container and store at room temperature.
HOLY BASIL CRÈME BRÛLÉES WITH RED FRUIT COMPOTE
Holy basil, also know as tulsi, is a much revered plant in India. It is not commonly used in cooking, although it’s sometimes included in teas. It has a wonderful fragrance and a beautiful calming and purifying effect. I think it works particularly well in this dessert.
SERVES 12
For the crème brûlées
1 litre double cream
50g holy basil
6 eggs
4 egg yolks
200g caster sugar
100g demerara sugar
For the red fruit compote
50g strawberries, hulled and quartered
50g raspberries, halved
50g redcurrants
50g blueberries, halved
100g caster sugar
10 lemon balm leaves, finely sliced
Put the cream and holy basil in a pan and bring to boiling point, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Strain the cream, then return it to the pan and bring it to just below boiling point. Whisk the egg, egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl, then slowly pour in the cream, whisking constantly. Pour the mixture into 12 ramekins and place in a roasting tin half full of hot water. Bake in an oven preheated to 110°C/Gas Mark ¼ for 30 minutes, or until just set. Remove the ramekins from the roasting tin and leave to cool, then chill.
To make the red fruit compote, gently mix together all the ingredients in a bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave to macerate for 2 hours.
To serve, sprinkle the demerara sugar over the holy basil brûlées and caramelise with a blowtorch or under a very hot grill. Leave until the top becomes crisp, then serve with the berry compote alongside.
HONEY AND LIME CHEESECAKE WITH MARINATED CHERRIES
This is a very fresh and light take on the ever-popular cheesecake, and it works particularly well with cherries when they are in season. When cherries aren’t available, I like to serve it with the Red Fruit Compote.
SERVES 4
120g thick strained Greek yoghurt (250g yoghurt that is left to drain overnight)
110g mascarpone cheese
60g clear honey
50g caster sugar
juice of 1 lime
finely grated zest of ½ lime
90g double cream, whipped
For the marinated cherries
200g cherries, some stoned and some left whole with the stalks still on
40g icing sugar
juice of 1 lime
2 mint leaves, finely chopped
4 Brandy Snap Tuiles, to serve
Mix together the Greek yoghurt and mascarpone cheese. Beat in the honey, sugar and lime juice and zest, then quickly and lightly fold in the whipped cream. Divide the mixture between 4 ring moulds lined with greaseproof paper, then cover with clingfilm and chill for at least 20 minutes, until set.
For the marinated cherries, mix all the ingredients together and refrigerate until required.
When ready to serve, unmould the cheesecakes by lifting out the ring moulds and peeling away the greaseproof paper and place on 4 plates, then surround with the cherries and serve with a brandy snap tuile on each plate (you can sit the cheesecakes inside the tuiles if you wish).
MANGO AND CHILLI SOUP WITH MANGO AND PISTACHIO KULFI
Kulfi is India’s answer to ice cream, and there is little that beats mango kulfi when this luscious fruit is in season.
SERVES 10
For the Mango and Chilli Soup
2 large ripe mangoes, peeled with flesh removed from the stone and puréed in a blender or liquidiser with 100ml of water
1 green chilli, finely chopped
2 mint leaves, finely shredded
juice of 2 limes
sugar, to taste (optional)
salt, to taste (optional)
1 fresh ripe mango, peeled and flesh cut into 5mm dice to garnish
For the Mango and Pistachio Kulfi
480ml evaporated milk
100g caster sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
¼ teaspoon ground fennel
a pinch of saffron strands
3 large ripe mangoes, peeled with flesh removed from the stone and puréed in a blender or liquidiser with 150ml of water
100g shelled pistachios, chopped
Start by making the kulfi. Put the evaporated milk and sugar in a pan and bring slowly to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the ground cardamom and fennel and the saffron. Set aside and cool to room temperature, then stir in the mango purée, mix together and transfer to the fridge to chill.
Place the mixture in an ice-cream machine and process towards freezing, according to the manufacturer’s instructions, but you want to ensure it’s not quite frozen. Transfer to a bowl, fold in the pistachio nuts, then divide between 10 kulfi moulds and freeze.
To make the soup, in a bowl beat together the mango purée, chilli, mint and lime juice and add sugar or salt, if required. Transfer the soup to the fridge to chill.
To serve, turn out the kulfi into 4 bowls, add the soup and sprinkle with the diced mango at the last moment.
Vivek’s tip
Look for kulfi moulds in Asian food shops and cookware shops and from online suppliers. If you can’t find any, you can use small yoghurt pots. To unmould, take the kulfi straight from the freezer and dip them up to the rim in hot water for a few seconds. Place one top down in a bowl, invert the mould and bowl and give a good shake - you should hear it drop out. Gently remove the mould and unmould the remainder.
CARROT-GINGER HALWA TART WITH BLACK CARDAMOM ICED DOUBLE CREAM
I developed this dessert as an Indian take on a quintessential British favourite: treacle tart. It was created as part of the London Restaurant Festival celebrations in 2011. To my mind, this combines the best of both countries.
SERVES 12
100g ghee or clarified butter
500g carrots, grated
100g caster sugar
1 tablespoon raisins
250ml evaporated milk
50g piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
3 green cardamom pods, ground
For the tart base
150g plain white flour, plus extra for rolling
40g icing sugar
80g cold unsalted butter, diced
1 egg, beaten
For the tart filling
4 eggs
2 egg yolks
250g treacle
For the iced double cream
50g caster sugar
1 tablespoon milk powder
175ml whole milk
50ml double cream
4 pods black cardamom, seeds removed and crushed
First make the tart base. Mix together the flour and icing sugar in a mixing bowl. Rub in the butter to get a breadcrumb texture, then add the egg and mix until a soft dough forms. Wrap in clingfilm and chill for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the halwa. Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan, add the carrots and cook gently, stirring, for 10 minutes, until the juice from the carrots has evaporated. Add the sugar and raisins and cook until the sugar melts. Add the evaporated milk and cook on a medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture looks like orange fudge. Stir in the ginger and cardamom, then spread the mixture on a baking tray and leave to cool.
Roll the dough out thinly on a lightly floured surface and use to line a 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin. Prick the base all over with a fork, then place in the fridge for about 20 minutes.
To make the iced double cream, mix together the sugar and milk powder in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the whole milk and cream and bring to the boil. Pour into a blender or food processor and quickly blitz. Strain into an ice cream maker, and when it is almost frozen, fold in the black cardamom pods and finish churning. Transfer to the freezer.
Alternatively, pour into a shallow container and place in the freezer, until semi-frozen. Then transfer to a chilled bowl and whisk well to break down the ice crystals. Return to the container and place in the freezer again. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times. Leave until frozen.
Remove the tart case from the fridge and cover with baking parchment or clingfilm and weigh down with rice or baking beans. Bake in an oven preheated to 140°C/Gas Mark 1 for 40 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the filling, put 500g of the carrot halwa in a bowl and mix in the eggs, egg yolks and treacle. Remove the paper and rice or beans from the pastry case and pour in the filling carefully. Return the tart to the oven preheated to 120°C/Gas Mark ½ and bake for 40 minutes, until the filling is just set.
Leave the tart to cool on a wire rack for a few minutes, then carefully remove it from the tin. Cut into slices and serve with a scoop of the iced double cream.
I love this sorbet for its fresh, clean taste. It pairs very well with most chocolate desserts and I particularly love the way that the heat from the chillies comes through later.
SERVES 4
200ml mandarin purée (often available in frozen form)
200ml water
50g caster sugar
grated zest of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon finely chopped green chilli
1½ tablespoons liquid glucose
Put the mandarin purée, water and sugar in a heavy-based pan and heat gently, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat and simmer gently for 20 minutes, skimming off the scum that has gathered on the surface. Add the lemon zest, chilli and liquid glucose and leave to cool. Place in an ice-cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Alternatively, pour into a shallow container and place in the freezer until semi-frozen, then remove and stir briskly with a fork to break down the ice crystals. Return to the freezer and repeat these processes 3 or 4 times, then freeze until the sorbet is firm.
This draws inspiration from the quintessential favourite summer drink made with cooked, green mangoes and cumin. Well, ours has just had a makeover and turned into a sorbet – how cool!
SERVES 4
4 green mangoes
finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
60g caster sugar
300ml water
50g liquid glucose
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted
1 tablespoon finely chopped mint leaves
Put the green mangoes in a baking tray and roast in an oven preheated to 190°C/Gas Mark 5 for 25–30 minutes, until they are softened. Set aside and leave to cool completely, then peel, deseed and strain the pulp, which should amount to about 200ml.
Mix together the green mango pulp with lime zest and juice, sugar, water, liquid glucose and cumin seeds. Place in an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions, adding the mint leaves just before the sorbet finishes churning. Transfer to the freezer until required.
Alternatively, pour into a shallow container and place in the freezer, until semi-frozen. Then transfer to a chilled bowl and whisk well to break down the ice crystals. Return to the container and place in the freezer again. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times. Leave until frozen.
PINEAPPLE CARPACCIO WITH TAPIOCA KHEER
Tapioca kheer is something Hindus eat when they are fasting during religious festivals. Tapioca is one of the few starches allowed during these religious festivals and, therefore, used a lot at those times, but not often otherwise. Even though it’s not very traditional to team tapioca and citrus, I like the zingy effect of orange zest and the acidity works well with the clean taste of tapioca. This pineapple carpaccio is very simple, clean and salad-like, and works well as a light dessert option.
SERVES 6
½ pineapple, peeled, cored and sliced finely, ideally using a mandoline or a thin knife
1 teaspoon pink peppercorns, crushed
2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon clear honey
juice of ½ lime
coriander cress to garnish
For the Tapioca Kheer
2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
120g tapioca
750ml milk
2 green cardamom pods
grated zest of 1 orange
2 teaspoons sultanas
50g granulated sugar
Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan, add the tapioca and fry, stirring, for 2–3 minutes. Add the milk and cardamom pods and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tapioca has softened. Add the orange zest and raisins and stir for 3–4 minutes. Add the sugar and stir until it has completely dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the tapioca to cool.
Meanwhile, make the pineapple carpaccio. Put the pineapple, pink peppercorns, ginger, honey and lime juice in a non-metallic bowl and gently mix together. Place in the fridge until required.
Just before serving, gently stir the carpaccio again, then sprinkle with coriander cress leaves and serve with the tapioca kheer.
SPICED PISTACHIO CAKE WITH LONG PEPPER ICE CREAM AND SATSUMA CHUTNEY
I love the beautiful green colour and the incredibly deep flavour of pistachio in this cake and it works wonderfully with the slight hint of background flavour of long peppers in the ice-cream. We use both butter and olive oil for this recipe, but you can make the cake with just olive oil if you prefer. The long pepper we use here is ‘piper longum’, the Indian long pepper. It has a mild pepperiness, and deep, haunting woody notes that help to make this dessert unique. You should be able to buy it from specialist suppliers online.
SERVES 4-6
100g ground pistachios
25g plain white flour
25g coarse semolina
½ teaspoon baking powder
a pinch of ground cardamom
a pinch of ground black pepper
50g butter, melted
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
100g caster sugar
2 eggs
juice and grated zest of ½ lemon
juice of ½ orange
For the long pepper ice cream
200ml milk
200ml double cream
4 tablespoons liquid glucose
50g granulated sugar
7 long peppers
3 egg yolks
For the satsuma chutney
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
1 dried red chilli
8 satsumas, peeled, separated into segments and deseeded
50g granulated sugar
First make the ice cream. Put the milk, cream, liquid glucose, sugar and long peppers in a pan and slowly bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and strain into a bowl to remove the peppers. Lightly whisk the egg yolks, then gradually whisk into the milk mixture. Pour into an ice-cream machine and freeze. Alternatively, pour into a shallow container and place in the freezer, until semi-frozen. Then transfer to a chilled bowl and whisk well to break down the ice crystals. Return to the container and place in the freezer again. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times. Leave until frozen.
For the pistachio cake, combine all the dry ingredients in a bowl, apart from the sugar. Mix the butter and the oils together. Whisk the sugar and the eggs together, gradually adding the butter and the oil mixture. Gently fold in the flour mix, followed by the zest and the juices. Pour the mixture into a greased 15cm springform cake tin and bake in an oven preheated to 160°C/Gas Mark 3 for 30 minutes, or until a cocktail stick inserted in the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool completely on a wire rack. Meanwhile, make the satsuma chutney. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan to smoking point and add the cinnamon stick, bay leaf and chilli. When they give off their aromas, add the satsumas and stir on a medium-low heat for 3–4 minutes, until they have softened. Add the sugar, stirring until it dissolves, then reduce the heat and cook on a low heat, stirring, for 15–20 minutes, until the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
To serve, place slices of the pistachio cake on plates with the satsuma chutney and serve the long pepper ice cream alongside.
Possibly the longest-serving dessert at The Cinnamon Club, Cinnamon Kitchen and now at Cinnamon Soho, this dish has had so many makeovers that I’ve lost count. Our latest version includes caramelised pear halves, served on a yoghurt and raisin mix with pieces of saffron jelly and coriander cress.
SERVES 4
2 William pears (not too ripe)
600ml water
250g caster sugar
a generous pinch of saffron strands
5cm piece of cinnamon stick
5 green cardamom pods
2 star anise
50g demerara sugar
1 quantity of Saffron Jelly, to decorate
10 sprigs of coriander cress, to decorate
For the raisin raita
200g Greek yoghurt
2 tablespoons raisins
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
Peel the pears, leaving the stems on, and put them in a bowl of water to prevent discolouration. Put the water, sugar, saffron, cinnamon, cardamom and star anise in a saucepan in which the pears will just fit upright. Slowly bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the pears, reduce the heat and poach for 15–20 minutes, until the pears are tender, but still slightly firm. Remove from the poaching liquid and leave the pears to cool. Increase the heat, bring the poaching liquid to the boil and allow it to reduce by half. Once you have a syrupy liquid, remove from the heat and set aside.
When the pears are cool, cut them in half lengthways and remove the cores and any pips. (You may wish not to core them so as to present them as we have opposite – in which case be sure to warn your guests!)
Mix together all the ingredients for the raisin raita and spoon on to 4 plates. Place the pear halves upright on a baking sheet, sprinkle the demerara sugar over the halves and caramelise with a blowtorch or under a very hot grill. Leave until the glaze becomes crisp, then add to the plates, decorate with saffron jelly, spoon over the poaching liquid, sprinkle with coriander cress and serve.
SHRIKHAND CHEESECAKE WITH FENNEL- AND CORIANDER-FLAVOURED STRAWBERRIES
Lots of chefs pair strawberries with good aged balsamic, and I once tried Heston Blumenthal’s strawberries with coriander at The Fat Duck. At the time our menu included cardamom shrikhand which was paired with fresh strawberries, and I thought it would work with tamarind chutney. We tried, and it works very well, so here it is.
SERVES 4–6
For the cheesecake
250g strained Greek yoghurt (500g yoghurt that is left to drain overnight)
100g mascarpone cheese
100ml double cream, whipped to soft peaks
50g caster sugar
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
For the crumble base
250g plain white flour
250g caster sugar
180g ground almonds
250g cold salted butter, diced
For the fennel- and coriander-flavoured strawberries
250g strawberries, hulled and some sliced and some left whole (or use any other berries in season)
grated zest and juice of ½ lime
2 mint leaves, finely shredded
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, roasted and crushed
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted and crushed
a pinch of salt
a pinch of sugar
To make the crumble base, mix together the flour, sugar and ground almonds, then rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Spread on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and bake in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 10–12 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the pan and leave to cool, then use your fingertips to break into fine crumbles.
For the cheesecake, gently fold together all the ingredients and chill for 20 minutes.
To assemble the cheesecake, press a layer of the crumble about 1.5cm thick in a 15cm springform cake tin. Add the cheesecake mixture, smooth the surface and place in the fridge to chill for at least 2 hours.
Meanwhile, prepare the strawberries. Put the strawberries in a non-metallic bowl, add the remaining ingredients and toss gently. Leave to macerate for 10–15 minutes.
Slice or scoop the cheesecake onto serving plates and serve with the strawberries dotted around. In the restaurant we add a strawberry caramel tuile. The Saffron Caramel Tuiles would also work well.
SOUTH INDIAN MOONG LENTIL KHEER WITH FRESH MANGO
I recently discovered how well this traditional south Indian-style kheer, sweetened with jaggery, tastes with fresh mangoes when they’re in season. Give it a go! The kheer is so versatile it can be served hot or chilled, either on its own or as a substitute for custard with Christmas pudding!
SERVES 6
50g yellow moong lentils
35g basmati rice
1 tablespoon ghee or vegetable oil
500ml water
1 litre whole milk
100g jaggery, molasses sugar or unrefined muscovado sugar
pinch of ground cinnamon
50ml made up coconut cream
2 ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced, to serve
For tempering
1 tablespoon ghee or vegetable oil
20g cashew nuts
10g raisins
Wash the lentils and rice separately under cold running water, then leave to soak separately for 15 minutes.
Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan to smoking point. Add the lentils and stir until they turn golden brown. Add the water and let the lentils simmer on a low heat for 20–25 minutes, until they are almost half cooked. Stir in the rice and milk and cook, stirring, for 20 minutes, or until the rice is just cooked.
Stir in the jaggery (or molasses sugar or muscovado sugar) and cook for another 10–15 minutes, until the mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon. Stir constantly and take care that the lentils and rice do not catch on the bottom of the pan. Add the cinnamon powder and coconut cream and cook for another 5 minutes, until the mixture has a custard-like consistency. Remove the pan from the heat.
For tempering, heat the ghee in a heavy-based frying pan to smoking point and add the cashew nuts and raisins. When the cashew nuts turn golden brown, immediately pour this mixture on to the kheer. Serve the pudding hot or chilled with the slices of fresh mango.
South Indian Moong Lentil Kheer with Fresh Mango
We had realised pretty early on during the opening of Cinnamon Kitchen that, if we were to stand any chance of getting people to have three courses, we could not have just traditional Indian desserts like halwa, gulab jamuns or ras malai. We decided to either lighten up Indian desserts or spice up Western desserts. This is an example of how we gave a popular European dessert the spice treatment. When I can get them, I like to use the small Indian bananas that have a nice acidity and sharpness to them; but feel free to substitute with regular bananas, if you prefer. The tart is also enhanced by the delicate aromatic spice and bite of the pink peppercorns.
SERVES 4-6
4 bananas
½ teaspoon pink peppercorns, coarsely crushed
150g puff pastry
For the caramel
150g granulated sugar
50ml water
15g butter, plus extra for greasing the tin
To make the caramel, put the granulated sugar and water in a small, heavy-based pan and heat gently, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has melted. Increase the heat and cook, without stirring, until it forms a dark golden caramel. Add the butter, standing well back in case it splutters, then simmer for 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and pour into a greased 20cm cake tin to coat the base. Leave until cool and set.
Peel and slice the bananas and arrange them in overlapping circles on top of the set caramel. Sprinkle the pink peppercorns over. Now roll out the puff pastry to about 3mm thick and cut out a 23cm round. Cover the bananas with the pastry, tucking the edge down inside the tin. Bake in an oven preheated to 190°C/Gas Mark 5 for about 15 minutes, until the pastry puffs up and turns golden. Remove the tart from the oven and invert it on to a plate so the bananas are on top. Alternatively, you could make individual tarts, as we do in the restaurant (see picture), using 12cm discs of pastry and smaller tins. The larger tart is an easier one to make and share at home.
Serve hot with ice cream such as Black Cardamom Iced Double Cream.
This is a selection of desserts inspired by the religious offerings made in temples across different parts of India. Some of my most memorable dessert experiences while growing up in India are linked to visits to different temples and the different offerings being prepared and distributed at these festivals. Following are three of the most distinct memories.
SERVES 4
Amruth literally means ‘immortal nectar’, and this is a combination of five (panch) immortal nectars (amruths), or ingredients.
⅓ banana
50ml milk
50ml Greek yoghurt
30g granulated sugar
2 teaspoons clear honey
Blend all the ingredients and chill for 30 minutes. Serve as a lassi in a small cup or bowl.
A typical semolina pudding served in Sikh temples every Sunday.
2 teaspoons ghee or vegetable oil
10 raisins
5 cashew nuts
50g coarse semolina
50g sugar
4 strands of saffron (optional)
150ml milk or water
Melt the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan and add the raisins and the cashew nuts. When the raisins puff up, add the semolina and stir until the grains are golden. Add the sugar and saffron and slowly pour in the milk or water, stirring constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Cook on a low heat for 2–3 minutes, until the pudding leaves the sides of the pan. Divide between 4 bowls and serve hot.
This is an Indian style-crumble, served as an offering in temples all over northern and eastern India.
2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
4 tablespoons wholemeal flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
20g jaggery or molasses sugar
1 green cardamom pod, pounded to a powder in a mortar and pestle
Heat the ghee in a heavy-based pan, add the flour and stir on a low heat until it turns golden brown. Add the granulated sugar and jaggery or molasses sugar and continue stirring until the mixture becomes crumbly. Stir in the cardamom.
To serve, arrange a little of each mixture on 4 plates, and serve the panchamrut chilled, the sooji hulwa hot and the panjiri at room temperature.
VALRHONA CHOCOLATE FONDANT AND COFFEE PARFAIT
No matter what kind of a restaurant you run, you need at least one good chocolate dessert, and this is one of the most popular desserts at Cinnamon Kitchen. Ever.
SERVES 4-6
For the coffee parfait
175ml double cream
3 leaves of gelatine
100ml water
50g caster sugar
3 egg yolks
2 tablespoons instant coffee granules, dissolved in 3 tablespoons boiling water
For the chocolate fondant
125g Valrhona chocolate (we use 55% cocoa)
100g unsalted butter, chopped
2 eggs
80g caster sugar
50g plain white flour
2 teaspoons cocoa powder
½ teaspoon baking powder
To make the coffee parfait, whisk the cream until stiff peaks form, then set aside in the fridge. Soak the gelatine in cold water to cover for 10 minutes.
Put the water and sugar in a large saucepan and stir to dissolve the sugar, then boil, without stirring, until it reaches 118°C on a sugar thermometer. Remove the pan from the heat.
Squeeze out excess water from the soaked gelatine and whisk it into the syrup. Add the egg yolks and dissolved coffee. Fold in the whipped cream. Pour into a deep baking tray lined with clingfilm and use a wet palette knife to spread to a thickness of 1cm. Leave to cool, then transfer to the fridge to set.
For the chocolate fondant, melt the chocolate with the butter in a bowl placed over simmering water (take care to ensure the bowl isn’t touching the water), then remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and sugar together until thick and creamy. Mix together the flour, cocoa powder and baking powder. Fold the cooled chocolate mixture into the eggs, then fold in the flour mixture. Spoon the mixture into 4 greased 4cm metal ring moulds on a baking sheet lined with a silicone mat or a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper. Transfer to an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and bake for 8-9 minutes, until the mixture starts to rise up and shrinks back from the moulds.
Meanwhile, invert the coffee parfait on to a cutting board, peel off the clingfilm and cut to whatever shape you wish.
Remove the fondants from the oven to rest for a minute or so, then carefully unmould with a small knife and transfer to 4 plates. Serve immediately with coffee parfait pieces.
Perfect for desserts such as Honey and Lime Cheesecake with Marinated Cherries.
MAKES 10 TUILES
25g icing sugar
25g butter
25g liquid glucose
25g plain flour
Whisk the sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Add the flour and liquid glucose and mix until well combined. Wrap the dough in clingfilm, rolling it to form a fat sausage, and set aside in the fridge for 30 minutes to chill. Unwrap the dough and slice into 10 and place on a baking sheet. Flatten each slice into thin discs either using a rolling pin or pressing with your fingers to spread evenly.
Bake the tuiles in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 5–6 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven, allow to cool just enough to be able to handle them and, while still warm and pliable, shape them around a rolling pin or jam jar. Cool and store the tuiles in a cool, dry air-tight container for 2–3 days away from moisture. Should they go soft, they can be reheated slightly and become crisp again once cooled.
This is a useful garnish to adorn the fruits of your labour.
600g caster sugar
400g liquid glucose
a pinch of saffron, soaked in 3 tablespoons hot water for 10 minutes
Combine the sugar and liquid glucose in a heavy-based pan and stir until the sugar dissolves. Strain in the saffron-infused water and cook, without stirring, on a high heat until the mixture reaches 150°C on a sugar thermometer. Pour out onto a silicone baking mat on a baking sheet or onto a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper, and use a wet palette knife to spread into an even layer. Once cool, break the caramel and transfer to a food processor and quickly blitz until a fine powder forms. Store in an airtight container until required.
When ready to bake, sprinkle the ground caramel thinly on to a silicone baking mat or baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and place in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and bake for about 4–5 minutes, until the sugar melts and forms a thin film. Remove from the oven and let cool, then break into smaller pieces to use as a garnish for any of your desserts.
This is a good recipe for a spiced chocolate sauce that works well to decorate a plate or simply to dunk your biscuits into. Feel free to replace the cumin with chilli flakes for that extra kick!
250ml milk
75g caster sugar
20g cocoa powder
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and lightly crushed
225g dark chocolate with at least 70% cocoa, chopped
2 drops of vanilla extract
Mix together the milk, sugar, cocoa powder and cumin seeds in a heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Put the chocolate and vanilla in a heatproof bowl and pour the boiling mixture over them, stirring until the chocolate melts. Transfer to a jug to cool, then seal for later use. The sauce can be kept for up to a week in the fridge.
A by-product of the saffron-poached pears we make at the restaurant. The poaching liquor is reduced a little, then turned into a jelly, either to add a new texture on the plate as a garnish, or to be served on its own rolled in caster sugar as a petit four.
100ml water
75g caster sugar
a pinch of saffron strands
1 green cardamom pod
1 star anise
1g vegetable gel or 2g agar-agar
Bring the water to the boil in a heavy-based saucepan and stir in the sugar until it dissolves. Remove the pan from the heat, add the saffron strands and leave for about 30 minutes to infuse. Add the cardamom and star anise, return the pan to a low heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
Whisk in the vegetable gel, stirring to dissolve. Pour into a shallow tray or any other mould and leave to cool and then chill for about 30 minutes, until set. Unmould and cut into cubes or any desired shape to use as a decoration on any dessert, for an extra dimension.
Abdul Yaseen, without whom there wouldn't have been a Cinnamon Kitchen, let alone a Cinnamon Kitchen cookbook.
The team at Cinnamon Kitchen and Anise, who've made light of the worst recession known to our generation and established CK as the City's favourite Indian.
Awanish Roy, Mor Singh Jakhi, Narendra Yadav, Palash Mitra and Rakesh Nair for help with recipes.
All of you who've attended our cooking masterclasses over the years and helped me collect and correct recipes.
Jon Croft, for believing in a Cinnamon Kitchen cookbook. Lara Holmes, Lucy Bridgers and Matt Inwood, for your patience.
Shanna Manross for keeping it together.
Maya, Eshaan and Archana for all the weekends you lost while I worked on this book. Thank you.
