Fürdő
▲▲▲SZÉCHENYI BATHS (SZÉCHENYI FÜRDŐ)
▲▲GELLÉRT BATHS (GELLÉRT FÜRDŐ)
Splashing and relaxing in Budapest’s thermal baths is the city’s top attraction. Though it might sound daunting, bathing with the Magyars is far more accessible than you’d think. The first two thermal baths I’ve described in this chapter (Széchenyi and Gellért) are basically like your hometown swimming pool—except the water is a hundred degrees, there are plenty of jets and bubbles to massage away your stress, and you’re surrounded by scantily clad Hungarians. If you want a more “authentic” and naked experience, I’ve also described one of those (Rudas, which also has a more modern “wellness” area).
All this fun goes way back. Hungary’s Carpathian Basin is essentially a thin crust covering a vast reservoir of hot water. The Romans named their settlement near present-day Budapest Aquincum—“abundant waters”—and took advantage of those waters by building many baths. Centuries later, the occupying Ottomans revived the custom. And today, thermal baths are as Hungarian as can be.
Locals brag that if you poke a hole in the ground anywhere in Hungary, you’ll find a hot-water spring. Judging from Budapest, they could be right: The city has 123 natural springs and some two dozen thermal baths (fürdő). The baths, which are all operated by the same government agency, are actually a part of the health-care system. Doctors regularly prescribe treatments that include massage, soaking in baths of various heat and mineral compositions, and swimming laps. For these patients (who you might see carrying a blue ticket), a visit to the bath is subsidized.
But increasingly, there’s a new angle on Hungary’s hot water: entertainment. Adventure water parks are springing up all over the country, and even the staid old baths have some enjoyable jets and currents. Overcome your jitters, follow my instructions, and dive in...or miss out on the quintessential Budapest experience.
American tourists often feel squeamish at the thought of bathing with Speedo-clad, pot-bellied Hungarians. Relax! It’s less intimidating than it sounds—and the fun you’ll have far outweighs the jitters. I was nervous on my first visit, too. But now I feel like a trip to Hungary just isn’t complete without a splish-splash in the bath.
While Budapest has several mostly nude, gender-segregated Turkish baths (such as Rudas), my favorites—Széchenyi and Gellért—are less intimidating: Men and women are usually together, and you can keep your swimsuit on the entire time. (Even at mixed baths, there generally are a few clothing-optional, gender-segregated areas, where locals are likely to be nude—or wearing a kötény, a loose-fitting loincloth.)
Bring along these items, if you have them: swimsuit, towel, flip-flops, bottle of water, soap and shampoo for a shower afterward, comb or brush, swim or shower cap (see below), plastic shopping bag or sealable baggie (for your wet swimsuit), and maybe sunscreen and leisure reading. Hotels typically frown on guests taking their room towels to the baths. Try asking nicely if they have some loaner towels just for this purpose (they’ll probably tell you to rent one there...but what they don’t know won’t hurt them). At Budapest’s baths, you can usually rent a towel or swimsuit (for men, Speedos are always available, trunks sometimes)—bring enough cash for the deposit, which will be refunded when you leave. A swim cap is required in lap pools at each bath. You can rent or buy a flimsy one there, but if you know you’ll be swimming laps, see if you can grab a shower cap from your hotel—it will work fine.
Each bath complex has multiple pools, used for different purposes. Big pools with cooler water are for serious swimming, while the smaller, hotter thermal baths (gyógyfürdő, or simply gőz) are for relaxing, enjoying the jets and current pools, and playing chess. The water bubbles up from hot springs at 77° Celsius (170° Fahrenheit), then is mixed with cooler water to achieve the desired temperatures. Most pools are marked with the water temperature in Celsius (cooler pools are about 30°C/86°F; warmer pools are closer to 36°C/97°F or 38°C/100°F, about like the hot tub back home; and the hottest are 42°C/108°F...yowtch!). Locals hit the cooler pools first, then work their way up to the top temps.
While the lap pools are chlorinated, most of the thermal baths are only lightly chlorinated, or not at all. Unlike swimming pools in the US—where the water is recycled back into the pool—water here is slowly drained out and replaced with fresh water from the hot springs. Locals figure this continuous natural flushing makes chemicals unnecessary. Still, total germophobes may not be entirely comfortable at the baths; either convince yourself to go with the flow, or skip the trip.
You’ll also usually find a dry sauna, a wet steam room, a cold plunge pool (for a pleasurable jolt when you’re feeling overheated), and sunbathing areas (which may be segregated and clothing-optional). Some baths have fun flourishes: bubbles, whirlpools, massage jets, wave pools, and so on.
The most challenging part of visiting a Hungarian bath is the complicated entrance procedure. Things have gotten much easier in recent years, but you’ll still be confronted with a complex payment scheme, lengthy menus of massages and other treatments, and occasionally monolingual staff. While it seems confusing at first, it’s more logical than you might think—and, thankfully, English translations of your ticket options and directions to various parts of the complex are posted. Although I’ve carefully outlined the specifics for each bath, they can change from year to year. Some general tips: Keep track of any receipt or slip of paper you’re given, as you may be asked to show it later (for example, to get your towel deposit back). Hang in there, go where people direct you, and enjoy this unique cultural experience. Remember, they’re used to tourists—so don’t be afraid to act like one. If you can make it through those first few confusing minutes, you’ll soon be relaxing like a pro.
Advance tickets for the baths are sold in hotel lobbies and other sales outlets all over town. But as there’s rarely a line to buy a bath ticket, prebooking makes little sense—just buy your tickets when you arrive at the bath.
Budapest’s baths recently upgraded to a system that uses a plastic, watch-like wristband as your ticket. When you enter, touch the wristband to the entry turnstile, then again to be assigned a changing cabin or to access a locker, then again each time you want to unlock your cabin or locker. When you’re done, drop the wristband into a slot as you exit the turnstile.
While enjoying the baths, you can leave your clothing and other belongings in your locked cabin or locker. Although I’ve found these to be safe, and bath employees assure me that thefts are rare (a cabin is safer than a locker), it’s at your own risk. Another option is to leave valuables in a safe (generally costs 600 Ft, ask when you buy ticket). Many locals bring plastic shopping bags to hold their essentials: towels, leisure reading, and sunscreen.
Be aware that the jets, bubbles, waves, waterfalls, and whirlpools sometimes take turns running. For example, a current pool runs for 10 minutes, then a series of jets starts up and the current pool stops for 10 minutes, then the current pool starts up again, and so on. If a particularly fun feature of the pool doesn’t seem to be working, just give it a few minutes.
While many treatments require a doctor’s prescription, anyone can enjoy a massage. Typically you’ll book this when you buy your ticket, and arrange a time; on busy days (especially Mon, Fri, and Sat), you may have to wait an hour or two—if you don’t want to spend all day at the baths, ask when the soonest available time is before you book. On other days, you may be able to get your massage immediately (or whenever you want).
You’ll be offered a choice of different kinds of massage. There are two basic kinds: A “relax massage” or “aroma massage” is a restful rubdown, typically using oil (often scented). This is what’s sometimes called a Swedish-style massage. The other option is a “scrub massage” or “skin-firming massage.” Similar to a Turkish-style massage, this is (for some) less restful, as it’s intended to exfoliate your skin and involves some very hard scrubbing.
Yet another choice is a Thai massage; you’ll see this advertised at some baths, sometimes in a separate section (since it’s operated by a private agency). You’ll lie on a mat close to the floor for more of a full-body stretching-and-cracking massage, using feet, knees, and elbows—usually administered by an actual Thai immigrant. Sometimes the Thai massage service also provides a more restful, scented-oils massage as well.
One more word on massages: Remember that the spas are medical facilities, so the massage may be more functional and less serene than what you’re used to back home.
After you’ve changed back to street clothes and are ready to leave the bath, ask whether there’s a centrifuge (centrifuga) where you can give your soggy swimsuit a spin. (Most baths have one, but they’re often hidden.) After just a couple of minutes, it’s merely damp rather than dripping—and easier to carry home without making a mess.
Here are some useful phrases:
| English | Hungarian | Pronounced |
| Bath | Fürdő | FEWR-dur |
| Men | Férfi | FAYR-fee |
| Women | Női | NUR-ee |
| Changing Cabin | Kabin | KAH-been |
| Locker | Szekrény | SEHK-rayn |
| Ticket Office | Pénztár | PAYNZ-tar |
| Thermal Bath | Gyógyfürdő, Gőz | JODGE-fewr-dur, gorz |
Please trust me, and take the plunge. My readers almost unanimously report that the thermal baths were their top Hungarian experience. If you go into it with an easygoing attitude and a sense of humor, I promise you’ll have a blast.
Budapest’s two-dozen baths (fürdő) were taken over by the communist government, and they’re all still owned by the city. The three baths listed here are the best-known, most representative, and most convenient for first-timers: The Széchenyi Baths are more casual and popular with locals; the Gellért Baths are touristy, famous, and genteel; and the Rudas Baths are old-school Turkish, with more nudity and less “fun” (unless you find public nudity fun...but that’s a whole other book). Rudas also has a modern “wellness” section, offering an interesting contrast under one roof. To me, Széchenyi is second to none, but some travelers prefer the Gellért or Rudas experience. As they’re all quite different, doing more than one is an excellent option. For more information on all of Budapest’s baths, see www.budapestgyogyfurdoi.hu or www.spasbudapest.com.
To soak with the locals, head for this bath complex—the big, yellow, copper-domed building in the middle of City Park. Széchenyi (SAY-chehn-yee) is the best of Budapest’s many bath experiences, a place to relax and enjoy some Hungarian good living. Magyars of all shapes and sizes stuff themselves into tiny swimsuits and strut their stuff. Housewives float blissfully in the warm water. Intellectuals and roly-poly elder statesmen stand in chest-high water around chessboards and ponder their next moves. This is Budapest at its best.
Cost: 4,500 Ft for locker (in gender-segregated locker room), 500 Ft more for personal changing cabin, 200 Ft more on weekends, cheaper if you arrive after 19:00. The price includes the outdoor swimming pool area and the indoor thermal bath and sauna (but note that the indoor sections close earlier—see below). Couples can share a changing cabin: One person pays the cabin rate, the other pays the locker rate, but both use the same cabin. As the cabins are tight, you may need to take turns...or get very cozy.
Hours: Swimming pool (the best part, outdoors) open daily 6:00-22:00, indoor thermal bath and sauna open daily 6:00-19:00, last entry one hour before closing. On some summer weekends, the baths may be open later (see “Night Bathing,” later).
Location and Entrances: In City Park at Állatkerti körút 11, district XIV, M1: Széchenyi fürdő. The huge bath complex has three entrances. The busiest one—technically the “thermal bath entrance”—is the grand main entry, facing south (roughly toward Vajdahunyad Castle). I avoid this entrance—there’s often a line during peak times, and it’s a bit more confusing to find your way once inside. Instead, I prefer the “swimming pool entrance,” facing the zoo on the other side of the complex—it’s more user-friendly, has shorter lines, and is open later. A third, smaller “medical entrance,” to the right as you face the zoo entry (near the Metró station), provides access to either the thermal bath changing rooms or the swimming pool changing rooms, but can also have long lines (tel. 1/363-3210, www.szechenyibath.hu).
Massage: A wide array of massages and other special treatments are offered—find the English menu in the lobby. If you’re interested in this, set up an appointment and pay at the office near the towel-rental desk (3,300 Ft/20 minutes, 4,500 Ft/30 minutes, expect 15-30-minute wait for your appointment when it’s busy). Remember that these massages are medicinal—not the mellow, soothing variety you might expect back home. You’ll pay more for something more hedonistic. There are two other options: a Thai massage parlor at the upper level of the complex (above the swimming pool entrance—just follow the signs) and a separate “information” desk just inside the swimming-pool entrance where you can book a “V.I.P. massage” (either option costs 11,000-14,000 Ft/1 hour).
Night Bathing: The baths are a joy in the evening, when both the price and the crowds are reduced. In cool weather, or even rain or snow, the pools maintain their hot temperatures—making this a delightful after-hours activity. Busy sightseers can be extremely efficient by closing down the museums, then heading to the baths. The only caveat: The indoor (and less appealing) thermal bath sections close after 19:00.
Additionally, Széchenyi is open late into the night on summer weekends, for a “sparty” event called Szecska (“Chaff”), where the bath complex basically becomes one big hot-water dance club (about 7,000 Ft if you book online in advance, mid-April-Sept Sat 22:30-late, www.szecska.hu).
Entry Procedure: While the following details might seem intimidating, it’s easier than it sounds. Take your time and you’ll eventually find your way. These instructions assume that you’re using the swimming pool entrance (from this entrance, there are parallel facilities in each direction).
First, in the grand lobby, pay the cashier. You’ll be given a waterproof, watch-like wristband with an electronic chip inside. Touch your wristband to the panel on the turnstile to enter the complex. Just after the turnstile, pause to get oriented: Straight ahead is a row of private changing cabins. At the start of this row is a stairwell. If you go up the stairs, you’ll find another floor of changing cabins (as well as the Thai massage area, gender-segregated “solarium” sun terraces, and a fun grandstand overlooking the main pool—these are ideal vantage points to snap some photos before you change). If you go down the stairs, you’ll find a long hallway lined with hairdryers and mirrors; the locker rooms are at each end (remember, men are férfi and women are női). Also downstairs, you’ll find the counter where you can rent a towel or swimsuit (do this before you change, as you’ll need money: towel-700 Ft plus refundable 1,500-Ft deposit; swimsuit-1,100 Ft plus refundable 4,400-Ft deposit). Renting a small safe for your valuables costs 500 Ft.
Report to the area that you paid for (private cabin or locker room). If you paid for a cabin, look for an electronic panel on the wall, and hold your wristband against this panel for a few seconds—you’ll automatically be assigned a number for a cabin. Go find your cabin. When you touch your wristband to the lock, the light turns blue and the door unlocks. The door should lock automatically when you close it (but test it to be sure). You can reopen your cabin as often as you like. If you forget the number of your cabin, just touch your wristband to the panel in the hall, and it’ll remind you.
If you paid for a locker, you can head for the locker room and choose any open one. Once you hold your wristband against it to lock it, it can only be unlocked by that same wristband.
If you get confused, the attendants (who usually speak a few words of English) can help you find your way.
Phew. Now that you’ve changed into your swimsuit and stored your belongings, let’s have some fun.
Taking the Waters: The bath complex has two parts, outside and inside.
For most visitors, the best part is the swimming pool area outside. Orient yourself to the three pools (facing the main, domed building): The pool to the left is for fun (cooler water—30°C/86°F, warmer in winter, lots of jets and bubbles, lively and often crowded, includes circular current pool); the pool on the right is for relaxation (warmer water—38°C/100°F, mellow atmosphere, a few massage jets, chess); and the main pool in the center is all business (cooler water—28°C/82°F in summer, 26°C/79°F in winter, people doing laps, swim cap required). You get extra credit for joining the gang in a chess match. Stairs to saunas (with cold plunge pools, cold showers, and even an ice maker) are below the doors to the indoor thermal bath complex.
There’s a basic snack bar right in the middle of the complex, but you’re also allowed to bring in your own food if you munch discreetly.
For good views—or to use the well-equipped fitness center—climb up the stairs near the front of the changing-cabin hallways. There you’ll find the grandstand area overlooking the main pool, with the fitness center just above it.
If you’re feeling waterlogged and need a break from the baths, it’s fun just to explore the sprawling complex. It’s a bit of a maze, but don’t be afraid to poke around (keep in mind that several areas—such as the solarium sun terraces up top—are clothing-optional; again, men are férfi and women are női). Go for a photo safari, and don’t miss the grandstand.
Inside the main building is the thermal bath section, a series of indoor pools; each of these is designed for a specific medical treatment. You’ll notice each one is labeled with the temperature (ranging from 28°C/82°F to 36°C/97°F to 38°C/100°F; you’ll also find steam rooms with a 18°C/64°F cold plunge pool nearby). The pools also have varying types and amounts of healthy minerals—some of which can make the water quite green and/or stinky. Hungarians who use Széchenyi Baths medicinally have worked out a specific regimen for moving from pool to pool. But if all of this smelly water is lost on you (as it is on many foreigners), it’s totally fine to focus on the fun outdoor pools. (I’ve had many great visits to Széchenyi Baths without ever going inside the thermal bath complex.)
Exit Procedure: When you leave, be sure to leave your locker open. If you rented a towel or swimsuit, return it to the desk where you got it to reclaim your deposit. Then, as you exit the complex, insert your wristband into the little slot at the turnstile to exit. Now continue your sightseeing...soggy, but relaxed.
If you’re heading to the Metró, the station is very close, but easy to miss: It’s basically a pair of nondescript stairwells in the middle of the park, roughly toward Heroes’ Square from the thermal bath entrance (look for the low-profile, yellow Földalatti sign; to head for downtown, take the stairwell marked a Vörösmarty tér felé).
Using the baths at Gellért (GEH-layrt) Hotel costs a bit more than the Széchenyi Baths, and you won’t run into nearly as many locals; this is definitely a more upscale, touristy, spa-like scene. While its thermal areas are smaller, they’re arguably even more atmospheric—with exquisite porcelain details and an air of mystery. If you want a soothing, luxurious bath experience in an elegant setting, this is the place. And if it’s fun you’re looking for, the Gellért Baths have something that Széchenyi doesn’t: a huge, deliriously enjoyable wave pool that’ll toss you around like a queasy surfer (summer only).
Cost: 4,900 Ft for a locker, 400 Ft more for a personal changing cabin, cheaper if you arrive after 17:00.
Hours: Daily 6:00-20:00, last entry one hour before closing.
Location: It’s on the Buda side of the green Liberty Bridge (M4: Szent Gellért tér; or take trams #47 and #49 from Deák tér in Pest, or trams #19 and #41 along the Buda embankment from Víziváros below the castle, Gellért tér stop). The entrance to the baths is under the stone dome opposite the bridge, around the right side of the hotel (Kelenhegyi út 4, district XI, tel. 1/466-6166, ext. 165, www.gellertbath.com).
Entry Procedure: The grand entry hall is fully open to visitors, so feel free to poke around to get the lay of the land before buying your ticket (good views from the gallery up above). The entrance doors are flanked by ticket windows; just past those, on the right, is an information booth that usually has English-speaking staff.
In the summer, they sell two different tickets based on which changing area you’ll use (same price for either ticket, and both options allow you to move freely between the thermal baths and swimming pool areas once you’re inside). With a thermal bath ticket, you’ll change in a large, gender-segregated area with wooden stalls separated by curtains. With a swimming pool ticket, you’ll go to a mixed area where opposite-sex couples can share a cabin (this area also has gender-segregated locker rooms). I prefer the swimming pool section, which has more secure lockers. Couples who want to share a cabin should ask for “swimming pool ticket, one cabin, one locker.” As the cabins can be tight, you may have to take turns changing.
A dizzying array of massages and other treatment options are also sold at the ticket windows. Most are available only with a doctor’s note, but some massages are for anyone (generally 3,500 Ft/20 minutes, 4,700 Ft/30 minutes, 5,700 Ft/40 minutes; arrange a time when you buy your ticket). Upstairs, you can also book a Thai massage.
Buy your ticket (and, if you like, pay for a massage), and you’ll be issued a plastic wristband that acts as your ticket. Then glide through the swanky lobby. The indoor swimming pool is on your right, about halfway down the main hall; look for Gate II. Looking through the window to the pool, visualize the perfectly symmetrical bath complex: The men’s thermal bath, changing cabins, and lockers are on the left, while the identical women’s facilities are on the right. The two sections meet at this shared pool in the center.
If you bought a swimming pool ticket, you’ll touch your wristband to the turnstile and enter here: Men/férfi go down the stairs on the left, and women/női on the right (either way, you’ll head down a long hallway, then up stairs to the changing areas—a mixed-gender area for cabins down below, with a segregated locker area up above). If you have a thermal bath ticket, the entrances are a bit farther away: women to the right, closer to the entrance (Gate I); and men to the left, at the end of the hall (Gate III).
If you want to rent a towel (700 Ft) or swimsuit (1,000 Ft; both with a 4,000-Ft deposit, cash only), look for the desk near the entrance to the changing cabin area.
Once inside the changing area, if you bought a cabin ticket, hold your wristband against the electronic panel to be assigned a changing cabin number. Once you track it down, touch your wristband to the cabin to open it. The door locks automatically behind you (but test it just to be sure). If you bought a locker ticket, you can choose any open locker, then lock it with your wristband. It can only be unlocked using that same wristband.
Taking the Waters: Once you’ve changed, you can spend your time either indoors or out. From the locker room, look for signs to the effervescent bath-pool (for the indoor section) or to the swimming-pool with artificial waves (for the outdoor section).
Inside, the central, genteel-feeling hall is home to a cool-water swimming pool (swim cap required—you can buy a cheap one for 700 Ft) and a crowded hot-water pool (36°C/97°F). On sunny days, they crank open the retractable roof; for nice views down onto the pool, find the stairs up near the locker rooms. Back toward the main hall are doors to the thermal baths (easy to miss—walk to far end of pool and look for signs). While the doors may still be marked for men’s and women’s sections, both sides are now open to both genders. These grand old halls are probably the most atmospheric part of the bath—slathered with colorful porcelain decorations (especially the men’s side). There are big pools at either end: 36°C (97°F) and 38°C (100°F) in the men’s section, and slightly cooler in the women’s section. Notice that these temperatures perfectly flank the normal temperature of the human body, allowing you to toggle your temp at will. At the far end of the bath are a steam room (45-50°C/113-122°F) and a cold plunge pool (18°C/64°F). Back out near the changing cabins is a dry sauna (a.k.a. “dry sweating rooms,” 50-70°C/122-158°F). If you paid for a massage, report to the massage room in this section at your appointed time—or just show up and see if they can take you.
Outside, you’ll find several sunbathing areas and a warm thermal pool, along with an atmospheric woody sauna and a big barrel-shaped plunge pool with cold water (all hiding up the stairs on the right). But the main attraction is the big, unheated wave pool in the center (generally closed Oct-April, weather-dependent). Not for the squeamish, this pool thrashes fun-loving swimmers around like driftwood. The swells in the deeper area are fun and easy to float on, but the crashing waves at the shallow end are vigorous, if not dangerous. If there are no waves, just wait around for a while (you’ll hear a garbled message on the loudspeaker five minutes before the tide comes in).
Exit Procedure: When you’re finished, return your towel and swimsuit to reclaim your deposit, then insert your wristband into the slot at the exit turnstile.
To get to the Turkish roots of Budapest’s obsession with thermal baths, head for Rudas (ROO-dawsh). It’s the most historic, local, and potentially intimidating of the three baths I list—but it may also be the most rewarding, as it offers the most variety. Rudas has three sections (covered by separate tickets): the Turkish-style thermal bath zone; the swimming pool area; and the wellness section. While the swimming pool is nothing special, the other two are strikingly different—and equally worthwhile. Read these quick descriptions before your visit, to decide which area(s) you want to experience.
Rudas’ thermal section feels more like the classic Turkish baths of yore: On most days, the main thermal bath section is men-only, and those men wander around nude or in flimsy loincloths under a 500-year-old dome first built by the Ottoman Turks. These baths are not about splashy fun—there are no jets, bubbles, or whirlpools. Instead, Rudas is about history, and about serious temperature modulation—stepping your body temperature up and down between very hot and very cold. While not for the skittish, Rudas offers adventurous travelers and bath connoisseurs another facet of the Budapest baths experience. Be aware that all of Budapest’s single-sex, nude baths are (to varying degrees) a popular meeting point for the local gay community—though Rudas is less so than some others (such as Király Baths). Rudas becomes far more widely accessible to all visitors on weekends (Sat-Sun), when men and women mingle together in swimsuits under the fine old dome; then, at nighttime (Fri-Sat only), this old chamber becomes a modern nightclub until the wee hours.
The newly opened wellness area—with a handful of relaxing jet pools—is the modern, accessible yin to the thermal baths’ antique yang. The main reason to visit this section is the rooftop terrace, where you can sunbathe or soak while looking out over sweeping views of the Budapest skyline. Imagine: You’re up to your earlobes in hot water, looking out over commuters slogging across the city’s clogged bridges...and feeling pretty happy to be on vacation.
Finally, Rudas’ swimming pool is similar to, but far less elegant than, Gellért’s, and is only worthwhile for those who want to swim laps.
Cost: The various parts are covered by separate tickets. The historic thermal bath alone costs 3,000 Ft, the wellness center alone costs 2,900 Ft, and the swimming pool can be added to either ticket for a few hundred extra forints. But I’d spring for the 4,500-Ft combo-ticket that covers everything—thermal, wellness, and swimming pool—to enjoy the full scope of what Rudas offers. On weekends, the combo-ticket costs 5,500 Ft.
Hours: Daily 6:00-20:00, last entry one hour before closing. While the wellness area is mixed-gender every day, the thermal baths are open only to men Mon and Wed-Fri, only to women Tue, and to both men and women Sat-Sun. The night bathing (described later) is also mixed-gender.
Location: It’s in a low-profile building at the foot of Gellért Hill, just south of the white Elisabeth Bridge (Döbrentei tér 9, district I, tel. 1/375-8373, www.rudasbaths.com). From the Döbrentei tér stop on trams #19 and #41 (along the Buda riverfront, between the Gellért Baths and Batthyány tér), walk under the off-ramps for the big white bridge, pass the statue of Elisabeth, and go through the tunnel. The baths are straight ahead. Tram #18 from Szent Gellért tér drops you off right in front. From Pest, you can ride bus #7 or #107 from Astoria or Ferenciek tere to the Rudas Gyógyfürdő stop; in the other direction, these buses also reach Rudas from Szent Gellért tér.
Night Bathing: The baths are open—to both men and women, in swimsuits—with a dance hall ambience Fri-Sat 22:00-late (4,400 Ft).
Entry Procedure: Buy your ticket (see options above), and if you want, rent a towel (400 Ft for a “bath sheet,” plus 1,000-Ft refundable deposit) or a swimsuit (1,200 Ft plus 4,000-Ft deposit), or book a massage—either a relaxing “aroma relax massage,” or a rougher, exfoliating “water massage with soap” in a noisy, busy room (either costs 3,100 Ft/20 minutes, 4,100 Ft/30 minutes, 5,000 Ft/40 minutes).
You’ll be issued a plastic wristband, which you’ll use to go through the turnstile into the changing area (two floors of private cabins—there are no lockers in the thermal bath section). If you paid to rent a towel or swimsuit, give your receipt to the attendant to claim it now. Hold your wristband against the electronic panel on the wall for a few seconds to be assigned a cabin number, then find that cabin and touch your wristband to the lock in order to open it. After you change and are ready to explore the complex, lock the cabin door (unlike the other baths in town, it doesn’t lock automatically)...then go have fun.
In the wellness and swimming pool areas, you’ll wear your swimsuit everywhere, every day. For the thermal bath area, if you’re here on a mixed day (Sat-Sun), the dress code is swimsuits. On other days, bathers can go nude, and many of the men wear a flimsy loincloth called a kötény (issued as you enter). If you’re a self-conscious, gawky tourist (it happens to the best of us), you can wear your swimsuit...although you might get some funny looks.
Taking the Waters: This historic complex was thoroughly renovated a few years ago, making the outer section feel almost institutional. But the innermost section transports you half a millennium back in time.
Rudas’ thermal bath area is all about modulating your body temperature—pushing your body to its limit with heat, then dousing off quickly with a bucket of cold water, then heating up again, and so on. The different temperatures are designed to let you do this as gradually or quickly as you like.
The central chamber, under an original 35-foot-high Turkish dome supported by eight pillars, is the historic core of the baths. The main, octagonal pool in the center is surrounded by four smaller pools, each in its own corner. Working clockwise from the right as you enter, the four corner pools get progressively hotter: 28°C (82°F), 30° C (86°F), 33°C (91°F), and 42°C (108°F). While the hottest pool feels almost scalding at first, you can ease your way into it, the same way you would into cold water. Conveniently, the largest, central pool—at 36°C (97°F)—is not too hot, not too cold...juuuust right.
Along one wall are entrances to the wet sauna (nedves gőzkamra, to the left), with 50°C (122°F) scented steam; and the dry sauna (hőlégkamra, to the right), with three progressively hotter rooms ranging from 45°C (113° F) to 72°C (161°F). Near the entrance to each one is a shower or—if you don’t want to beat around the bush—a bucket of frigid water (pull the rope for immediate relief if you’re feeling overheated).
Surrounding this central chamber are hallways with other areas: resting rooms, tanning beds (szolarium, costs extra), massage rooms, a cold plunge pool, and a scale to see how much sweat you’ve lost.
Float on your back for a while in the main octagonal pool, pondering the faintly glittering translucent tiles embedded in the old Turkish dome. You’ll notice that the voices echoing around that dome are mostly Hungarian—there are very few tourists here. You might see people stretching, moving from pool to pool very purposefully, or even doing chin-ups from the metal supports; some are athletes, training for their next event.
When you’re ready for a change of pace, head back through the lobby to the other half of the building. First you’ll walk along the swimming pool (for laps), then enter the turnstile for the wellness area. The first room, with a huge window looking out over the busy embankment road, has three small pools of different temperatures (32°C/90°F, 36°C/97°F, and a sweltering 42°C/108°F), all with powerful massage jets. In the cold plunge pool (12-14°C/54-57°F), notice the ice maker that continually drops in a cube or two, every few seconds. Thirsty? Get a drink at the stately ram’s-head tiled fountains that line the walls.
But the real highlight of the wellness area is upstairs: At the end of the room, find the staircase and head on up, passing the inviting restaurant (with loaner bathrobes and fine views across the Danube) on your way to the rooftop terrace. While other Budapest baths envelop you in opulent architecture, this is the only one that envelops you in Budapest itself. Whether soaking in rays on the sun deck, or taking a dip in the 36°C/97°F thermal pool, you’re surrounded by the bustle of the city. Scanning the horizon, you’ll see a workaday burg going about its business...oblivious to the swimsuit-clad barnacle clinging onto the base of Gellért Hill. Your solitude is broken only by the periodic rumble of trams trundling past on the road below you.
Exit Procedure: After changing, return your rental towel and swimsuit to the attendant and get your receipt; present this at the front desk (along with your original towel receipt) to get your deposit back. Then drop your wristband through the little slot at the turnstile, head out the door, and stumble along the Danube...as relaxed as you’ll ever be.
Aaaaahhh.