Map: Andrássy Út Hotels & Restaurants
Map: Pest Town Center Hotels & Restaurants
Map: Buda Hotels & Restaurants
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. Rather than list hotels scattered throughout a city, I describe my favorite neighborhoods and recommend the best accommodations values in each, from dorm beds to fancy doubles with all of the comforts.
A major feature of this book is its extensive and opinionated listing of good-value rooms. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner and stable staff, run with a respect for Hungarian traditions, and not listed in other guidebooks. Obviously, a place meeting every criterion is rare, and all of my recommendations fall short of perfection—sometimes miserably. But I’ve listed the best values for each price category. I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a pricey laundry service.
Book your accommodations well in advance, especially if you’ll be traveling during busy times. September is extremely tight (because of conventions), with October close behind. The Formula 1 races (one weekend in late July or early Aug) send rates through the roof (see here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Hungary). Most rates drop 10-25 percent in the off-season (generally Nov-March). For tips on making reservations, see here.
I’ve described my recommended accommodations using a Sleep Code (see sidebar). Prices listed are for one-night stays in peak season, include breakfast (unless specified), and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through an online hotel-booking engine or TI). Booking services extract a commission from the hotel, which logically closes the door on special deals. Book direct.
My recommended hotels each have a website (often with a built-in booking form) and an email address; you can expect a response in English within a day (and often sooner).
In Budapest, most hotels quote their rates in euros (for the convenience of international guests), and I’ve followed suit. (Outside of the capital, hotels more often quote rates in forints.) However, most places prefer to be paid in forints (figured at the exchange rate on the day of payment). Unless I note otherwise in the listing, you can assume the hotel accepts credit cards—though smaller places always prefer cash. I’ve listed prices per room, not per person.
The majority of hotels don’t include the 4 percent tourist tax in their rates. Be warned that some big chains also don’t include the whopping 22 percent sales tax, which can make your hotel cost nearly a quarter more than you expected. (Independent hotel rates typically do include sales tax.)
While most hotels listed in this chapter cluster at about €70-105 per double, they range from €20 bunks to €500-plus splurges (maximum plumbing and more). Rooms outside the capital—such as in Eger, Pécs, and Sopron—are much cheaper. Hoteliers know what their beds are worth, so generally you get what you pay for. Since my €100 listings are substantially nicer than my €85 listings, I’d spring for the extra expense to have a comfortable home base. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Traveling alone can be expensive: A single room can be close to the cost of a double.
For each hotel in this chapter, I’ve listed the average price during relatively busy periods (though not peak-of-peak times). At most hotels, you’ll find these rates vary dramatically with demand. A few years back, Budapest built a few too many new hotels; with Hungary’s recent economic woes, many—including some luxury hotels—routinely offer deeply discounted rates to attract guests. Use my prices as a rough guideline, but check the hotel’s own website or try emailing them to ask for their best price. Comparison-shop and make your choice. This is especially helpful when dealing with the larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing,” a computer-generated system that predicts the demand for particular days and sets prices accordingly: High-demand days will often be more than double the price of low-demand days. This makes it impossible for a guidebook to list anything more accurate than a wide range of prices. I regret this trend. While you can assume that hotels listed in this book are good, it’s very difficult to say which ones are the better value unless you email to confirm the price.
In general, prices can soften if you do any of the following: offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or mention this book. You can also try asking for a cheaper room or a discount, or offer to skip breakfast.
If you’re on a tight budget, consider one of Budapest’s many hostels (described on here). But don’t overlook the good-value Bellevue B&B (here) and Mária and István’s place (here). At any hotel, three or four people can save money by requesting one big room.
If you’re arriving early in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. You can drop your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing. When packing, keep in mind that hotel elevators, while becoming more common, are often very small—pack light, or you may need to take your bags up one at a time.
Hoteliers can be a great help and source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a Wi-Fi hotspot. Of my recommended hotels, all of the places in Budapest (and virtually all those outside of Budapest) have English-speaking staff. In the rare instance where they do not, you’ll find a note in my listing.
For environmental reasons, towels are often replaced only when you leave them on the floor. In some cheap hotels, they aren’t replaced at all during your stay, so hang them up to dry and reuse. You might be tempted to borrow your hotel towel for your visit to the thermal baths (saving the towel-rental cost). Some hotels frown on this, others forbid it, and a few will loan you a special towel for this purpose.
Most hotels listed here include a buffet breakfast. Some smaller budget places serve no breakfast at all, while larger chain hotels charge (too much) extra for it; in these cases, I’ve noted it in the listing. Consider having breakfast instead at one of two good cafés I’ve recommended in the Eating in Budapest chapter: Gerlóczy Café or Callas (see “Budapest’s Café Culture” on here).
Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Air-conditioning malfunctions, sinks leak, hot water turns cold, and toilets gurgle and smell. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results.
If you suspect night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one.
Checkout can pose problems if surprise charges pop up on your bill. If you settle your bill the afternoon before you leave, you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention (before 19:00, when the night shift usually arrives).
The only tip my recommended accommodations would like is a friendly, easygoing guest. And, as always, I appreciate feedback on your experiences.
Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the city you came to see.
You’ll pay about €20 per bed to stay at a hostel. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Nowadays, concerned about bedbugs, hostels are likely to provide all bedding, including sheets. Family and private rooms may be available on request.
Independent hostels, which Budapest is full of, tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required); see www.hostelz.com and www.hostels.com.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com); these are fairly rare in Hungary. HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night.
It’s easy, and often cheaper than a hotel room, to rent a furnished apartment in Budapest (I’ve listed a few apartments in this chapter). Consider this option if you’re traveling as a family or with friends, staying at least a few days, and like the option of cooking some of your own meals to save money. Most rental apartments are squirrelled away in big, dank buildings; the proprietors can’t do much about a gloomy entrance and stairwell, but the apartments themselves are generally bright and nicely furnished.
Websites such as HomeAway and its sister sites VRBO and GreatRentals let you correspond directly with European property owners or managers. When you reserve, you’ll typically arrange a meeting time with the proprietor, who will greet you to hand over the keys. Remember that you’ll be basically on your own after that first meeting, so ask any questions up front.
Reserve your rooms several weeks in advance—or as soon as you’ve pinned down your travel dates. Note that some national holidays merit your making reservations far in advance (see here), and that hotels fill up fast in convention season (mainly September and, to a lesser degree, October).
Requesting a Reservation: It’s easiest to book your room through the hotel’s website. (For the best rates, always use the hotel’s official site and not a booking agency’s site.) If there’s no reservation form, or for complicated requests, send an email (see the sample request). Most recommended hotels take reservations in English.
The hotelier wants to know:
• the number and type of rooms you need
• the number of nights you’ll stay
• your date of arrival (use the Hungarian style for writing dates: year/month/day)
• your date of departure
• any special needs (such as bathroom in the room or down the hall, cheapest room, twin beds vs. double bed, and so on)
Remember to ask for the hotel’s best price—many are eager to offer discounts. It can’t hurt to mention this book.
Confirming a Reservation: Most places will request a credit-card number to hold your room. If they don’t have a secure online reservation form—look for the https—you can email it (I do), but it’s safer to share that confidential info via a phone call or two emails (splitting your number between them).
Canceling a Reservation: If you must cancel, it’s courteous—and smart—to do so with as much notice as possible, especially for smaller family-run places—at least three days. Be warned that cancellation policies can be strict; read the fine print or ask about these before you book. Internet deals may require prepayment, with no refunds for cancellations.
Reconfirming Your Reservation: Always call to reconfirm your room reservation a few days in advance. For smaller hotels and pensions, I call again on my day of arrival to tell my host what time I expect to get there (especially important if arriving late—after 17:00).
Phoning: For tips on how to call hotels overseas, see here.
Airbnb and Roomorama make it reasonably easy to find a place to sleep in someone’s home. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. If you want a place to sleep that’s free, Couchsurfing.org is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Most travelers find staying in Pest more convenient than sleeping in Buda. Most sights worth seeing are in Pest, which also has a much higher concentration of Metró and tram stops, making it a snap to get around. Pest feels more lively and local than stodgy, touristy Buda, but it’s also much more urban (if you don’t enjoy big cities, sleep in Buda instead). I’ve arranged my listings by neighborhood, clustered around the most important sightseeing sectors.
Andrássy Boulevard is handy, local-feeling, and endlessly entertaining. With its ample restaurants, upscale-residential vibe, and easy connection to downtown (via the M1/yellow line), it’s the neighborhood where I prefer to sleep. Most of the hotels listed here are within a two-block walk of this main artery. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$ K+K Hotel Opera is wonderfully situated beside the Opera House in the fun “Broadway Quarter”—my favorite home-base location in Budapest. It’s a regal splurge, with 200 classy rooms and helpful, professional service. The published rates are sky-high (Sb-€215, Db-€265), but most of the time you can score a better deal (often Sb-€110, Db-€125 in summer and on weekends; €25 more for bigger and fancier “executive” rooms, non-smoking floors, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking garage-€16/day, Révay utca 24, district VI, M1: Opera, tel. 1/269-0222, www.kkhotels.com, hotel.opera@kkhotels.hu).
$$$ Kapital Inn is an upscale boutique B&B tucked behind the House of Terror. Its six rooms are pricey but perfectly stylish—there’s not a pillow out of place. Albert, who lived in Boston, gives his B&B a sense of real hospitality. You’ll enjoy the public spaces, from the restful, momentum-killing terrace to the giant kitchen, where Albert serves breakfast at a huge shared counter (D-€89—a particularly good value, Db-€125, bigger Db-€149, 2-bedroom suite-€199, cheaper Nov-March, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free communal minibar, up several flights of stairs with no elevator, Aradi utca 30, district VI, M1: Vörösmarty utca, mobile 0630-915-2029, www.kapitalinn.com, kapitalinn@kapitalinn.com).
$$$ Casati Budapest Hotel is a solid value, and conveniently located a block off Andrássy út (across the boulevard from the Opera House, then down a side street—just steps from the edge of the ruin-pub zone). This classy, Swiss-run hotel has 25 rooms in four different styles, ranging from “classic” to “cool” (all the same price—review your options online and choose your favorite). Many rooms surround a peaceful courtyard—in this potentially noisy neighborhood, it’s worth requesting one of these (prices change constantly, but generally Db-€110-130, cheaper Nov-mid-March, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free sauna and fitness room, Paulay Ede utca 31, district VI, M1: Opera, tel. 1/343-1198, www.casatibudapesthotel.hu, info@casatibudapesthotel.hu).
The $ easyHotel chain follows a similar model to its parent company, the no-frills easyJet airline: They charge you very little up front, then nickel-and-dime you with optional extras—so you pay only for what you want (pick up the list at entry: TV access-€7.50/24 hours; hairdryer-€1/24 hours; laundry-€10/load; room-cleaning during your stay-€10; €10 extra if arriving before 8:00 or checking out after 14:00, and so on). The 59 rooms feel popped out of a plastic mold, with a nauseating orange color scheme, sterile quasi-linoleum floors, and tiny prefab ship’s-head bathrooms. But it’s conveniently located (just a block off the busy Great Boulevard and around the corner from the Oktogon), well-run by Zoltán, and the price is right...if you can resist the extras (Sb/Db-€19-69 depending on demand, average rate is €31 for a small room and €35 for a standard room, no breakfast, 24-hour reception, non-smoking, air-con, elevator, free slow Wi-Fi—or pay for faster access, cable Internet access-€2/hour or €10/24 hours, two wheelchair-accessible rooms, Eötvös utca 25A, district VI, M1: Oktogon, tel. 1/411-1982, www.easyhotel.com, info@budapestoktogon.easyhotel.com).
Most hotels on the very central and convenient Váci utca come with overly inflated prices. But these less expensive options—just a block or two off Váci utca—offer some of the best values in Budapest.
$$$ Gerlóczy Café & Rooms, which also serves good meals in its recommended café, is the best spot in central Budapest for affordable elegance. The 19 rooms, set around a classy old spiral-staircase atrium with a stained-glass ceiling, are thoughtfully and stylishly appointed. This gem is an exceptional value (cozy low-beamed attic Db-€104, standard Db-€119, Sb for €12 less, rates include great à la carte breakfast in café, some restaurant noise on lower floors until 23:00, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, free minibar, 2 blocks from Váci utca, just off Városház utca at Gerlóczy utca 1, district V, M3: Ferenciek tere or M2: Astoria or M1/M2/M3: Deák tér, tel. 1/501-4000, www.gerloczy.com, info@gerloczy.com).
$$ Butterfly Home, run with care by András (OHN-drash) and Timea, is a B&B with seven spacious, contemporary-style rooms overlooking a quiet pedestrianized lane a block from the happening University Square (Egyetem tér). You’ll enjoy the (included) à la carte breakfast in the neighboring restaurant. András really hustles to help you fully appreciate Budapest (Sb-€72-82, Db-€99-112, price depends on size, top-floor “economy” room with bathroom down a half-flight of stairs-Sb-€62/Db-€79, 25 percent cheaper Nov-March, book directly with hotel for the best rates, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Képíró utca 3, district V, M3/M4: Kálvin tér, mobile 0630-964-7287, www.butterflyhome.hu, info@butterflyhome.hu).
$$ Peregrinus Hotel, just a block off Váci utca, has 25 high-ceilinged, spacious, old-fashioned, parquet-floored rooms (most of which lack air-conditioning—in summer, request a third-floor room with air-con for the same price). Because it’s owned by the big ELTE university, many of its guests are visiting professors and lecturers (Sb-€60, Db-€85, Tb-€95, cheaper June-Aug and Nov-March, rates very soft—email to ask about deals, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free loaner bikes, Szerb utca 3, district V, M4: Fövám tér, tel. 1/266-4911, www.peregrinushotel.hu, peregrinushotel@elte.hu).
$$ Kálvin-Ház, a long block up from the Great Market Hall, has quirky management, a nice classic feel, and 36 big rooms with old-fashioned furnishings and squeaky parquet floors. The newer top-floor rooms have a bit less classic character, but are air-conditioned and tidier than the older rooms (all rooms cost the same, slippery rates vary with demand—generally around Sb-€59, Db-€79, extra bed-€20, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Gönczy Pál utca 6, district IX, M4: Fövám tér, tel. 1/216-4365, www.kalvinhouse.hu, info@kalvinhouse.hu).
$$ Loft V65 is a peaceful oasis of an apartment right on Váci utca, rented by the family that also runs the recommended Butterfly Home (described earlier). The large, well-appointed apartment has two double bedrooms, one-and-a-half baths, and a kitchen. You can rent just one bedroom (for 2 people, €85 mid-March-mid-Oct, €60-75 off-season) or both bedrooms (for up to 4 people, €95 mid-March-mid-Oct, €75-85 off-season). After you reserve, Gábor and András will arrange a meeting time to give you the keys (non-smoking, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Váci utca 65, district V, M4: Fövám tér or M3: Ferenciek tere, in the mornings call András at mobile 0630-964-7287, in the afternoons call Gábor at US tel. 917-880-3656, www.LoftV65.com, LoftV65@gmail.com).
These two places are within a block or two of the National Museum, just across the Small Boulevard from the Town Center, near M3/M4: Kálvin tér (district VIII).
$$ Brody House comes from artistic DNA—it began as an art gallery that provided a place for its guests to crash, and has evolved into a comfortable, full-service B&B. It fills three spacious floors of a townhouse with eight rooms and three apartments that all ooze a funky, idiosyncratic style. The sprawling public spaces may tempt you to just hang out. Each room is named for an artist who once used it as a studio; they’re wildly different and thoughtfully described on their website (Db-€70-120 depending on size, 2-room apartment with kitchenette-€100-130, continental breakfast-€8, air-con in most of the rooms, two stories up with no elevator, Wi-Fi, Bródy Sándor utca 10, tel. 1/266-1211, www.brodyhouse.com, reception@brodyhouse.com).
$ Budapest Rooms is a great budget option, where the Boda family rents five simple but surprisingly stylish, nicely appointed rooms in a dreary residential zone (Sb-€48, Db-€62, Tb-€74, Qb-€84, all have en-suite bathrooms except one room with private bathroom across the hall, includes continental breakfast, Wi-Fi, Szentkirályi 15, tel. 1/630-4743, mobile 0620-569-9513, www.budapestrooms.eu, info@budapestrooms.eu).
District VII—the city’s Jewish Quarter—has emerged as one of Budapest’s most happening nightlife zones, with ramshackle “ruin pubs” popping up all over. These three options offer proximity to the fun, which means they also come with some noise.
$$ ROOMbach Hotel Budapest Center, tucked down a gloomy but central street facing the Rumbach Street Synagogue, has 51 sleek, basic, smallish rooms with a stylish industrial-mod design. Part of a good-value chain, it feels fresh and modern, and the triple-glazed windows work hard to keep out the ruin-pub noise (Db-€85-95 in high season, can be as low as €75 off-season, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, parking-€12, Rumbach Sebestyén utca 14, tel. 1/413-0253, www.roombachhotel.com, info@roombach.com).
$ Danube Guest House’s six basic, tidy, gaudily decorated rooms can be noisy for light sleepers (more so in warm weather, as open windows are the only “air-conditioning” here—ask for a quieter courtyard room). But if you want proximity to one of the city’s liveliest nightlife areas, this place is a great value (Sb-€45, small Db-€49, bigger Db-€59, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Dohány utca 16, district VII, M2/red: Astoria, tel. 1/788-2891, mobile 0620-419-3986, www.danubeguesthouse.com, danube.guesthouse@upcmail.hu).
$ At BudaBaB, thoughtful Americans Ryan and Ron rent two rooms in their apartment. You’ll feel like you’re a houseguest, as everybody shares the bathrooms and the comfy living room; they appreciate conscientious guests (smaller room: S-€30, D-€45, T-€55; larger room: S-€40, D-€55, T-€70, Q-€85; cash or prepay with PayPal for 3 percent surcharge, Akácfa utca 18, district VII, M2: Blaha Lujza tér, or tram #4 or #6 to Wesselényi stop, tel. 1/267-5240, www.budabab.com, info@budabab.com).
The first listing below is the city’s most prestigious address; the next two are business-class options that are nicely located and worth booking if you can get a discounted rate. All of these are a short stroll from the delightful St. István tér/Zrínyi utca restaurant zone.
$$$ Four Seasons Gresham Palace is Budapest’s top hotel—and one of its most expensive. Stay here only if money is truly no object. You’ll sleep in what is arguably Budapest’s finest Art Nouveau building. Damaged in World War II, the Gresham Palace sat in disrepair for decades. Today it’s sparkling from a recent head-to-toe renovation, and every detail in its lavish public spaces and 179 rooms is perfectly in place. Even if you’re not sleeping here, dip into the lobby and café to soak in the elegance (non-view Db-€420-510, Danube-view Db-€630, prices don’t include 22 percent tax—not a typo, breakfast-€30-35, non-smoking rooms, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, top-floor spa, Széchenyi tér 5, district V, between M1: Vörösmarty tér and M2: Kossuth tér, tel. 1/268-6000, www.fourseasons.com/budapest, budapest.reservations@fourseasons.com). For more on the building’s history, see here.
$$ Hotel Central Basilica has 47 forgettable business-class rooms in the heart of the tidy and sane Leopold Town, near St. István’s Basilica and the surrounding yuppie dining and nightlife zone. The location makes it worth considering if you can score a good price (Sb-€99, Db-€109, superior Db-€139, but prices very soft—usually more like Db-€89, even cheaper Nov-March, air-con, elevator, pay Wi-Fi, Hercegprímás utca 8, district V, M1: Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út, tel. 1/328-5010, www.hotelcentral-basilica.hu, info@hotelcentral-basilica.hu).
$$ Starlight Suiten has 54 spacious suites—each with a living room, bedroom, and kitchenette—on a quiet but dull street directly behind the Gresham Palace (listed earlier). While rates can range widely (€80-130), suites often go for €90—at that price, this place is a great deal (includes small breakfast—or pay for a bigger one, air-con, elevator, guest computer, pay Wi-Fi, free fitness room and sauna, Mérleg utca 6, district V, M1: Vörösmarty tér, tel. 1/484-3700, www.starlighthotels.com, manager.merleg@starlighthotels.com).
All of these places are on or near Budapest’s Great Boulevard (Nagykörút) ring road—though they are spread far and wide. Tram #4 and #6 travel around the Great Boulevard, connecting all of these, and most are also near a Metró stop.
Friendly Budget Beds near Üllői Út: $ Mária and István, your chatty Hungarian aunt and uncle, are saving a room for you in their Old World apartment. For warmth and hospitality at youth-hostel prices, you can bunk in one of their two simple, old-fashioned rooms, which share a bathroom. The smaller room is cheaper and quieter; the bigger room gets some street noise on weekends (S-€20-22, D-€30-34, T-€39-42, price depends on size of room and length of stay—longer is cheaper, no breakfast but guests’ kitchen, cash only, elevator plus a few stairs, Ferenc körút 39, district IX, M3 or tram #4/#6: Corvin-negyed, tel. 1/216-0768, www.mariaistvan.hu, mariaistvan@upcmail.hu). From the Corvin-negyed Metró stop, follow signs for exit “E,” bear right up the stairs, and walk straight about a block and a half, looking for #39 (on the left; dial 19 at the door and ride the elevator to floor 4).
Near Margaret Bridge: $ GuestBed Budapest has five apartments—two in a mellow residential zone near the Margaret Bridge and the Great Boulevard, north of downtown Pest, and three more in the Andrássy út area (one in the Jewish Quarter, another near the Nyugati/Western train station, and another near St. István’s Basilica—all well-described on their website). The straightforward apartments, all with full kitchens, are not luxurious—they’re an old-fashioned mix of parquet floors and Ikea furniture. But this place is distinguished by its welcoming and conscientious owners, János and Jószef. When you book, arrange a time to meet to check in and get oriented. They also rent a “B&B” room in their own apartment (sharing their bathroom)—you’ll really feel like you’re staying with local friends (B&B room-€45, apartment-€60, 2-bedroom apartment-€65, for best rates book directly with hotel, Wi-Fi, airport pick-up service, János also offers bike and walking tours, Katona József utca 39, district XIII, tram #4/#6: Jászai Mari tér, mobile 03670-258-5194, www.guestbudapestapartment.com, budapestrentapartment@gmail.com).
Near the Oktogon: $ Hotel Queen Mary (named not for the British monarch, but for the owner’s wife) is mysteriously cheap and often empty, with impersonal service and 26 unimaginative rooms. The neighborhood is dingy and gloomy (two blocks beyond the end of the happening Franz Liszt Square), but the place is affordable for those on a tight budget and also likely to have rooms when other hotels are full (Sb-€50, Db-€60, Tb-€70, prices vary with demand, 20 percent cheaper Nov-March, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Kertész utca 34—for location see map on here, district VII, between M1: Oktogon and M2: Blaha Lujza tér, closer to tram #4/#6: Király utca, tel. 1/413-3510, www.hotelqueenmary.hu, info@hotelqueenmary.hu).
Budapest has seemingly dozens of apartments that have been taken over by young entrepreneurs, offering basic, rough-around-the-edges hostel charm. You’ll buzz in at the door and climb up a creaky, dank, and smelly staircase to a funky little enclave of fellow backpackers. Most of these places have just three rooms (one double and two small dorms) and feel more like communes than the finely tuned, high-capacity youth-hostel machines common in many other cities. As each of these fills a niche (party, artsy, communist-themed, etc.), it’s hard to recommend just one—read reviews on a hostel site (such as www.hostels.com) and find one that suits your hosteling philosophy. For hostel locations, see the map on here.
$ Aventura Boutique Hostel is a low-key, colorful, and stylish place in a dreary urban neighborhood near the Nyugati/Western train station. Well-run by friendly Ágnes, it’s both homey and tastefully mod, with clean, imaginatively decorated rooms (4 rooms, bed in 4- to 8-bed dorm-€20, D-€42, price can be much less off-season and if you book in advance, breakfast-€2-5, includes sheets, towel rental-450 Ft, guest computer, Wi-Fi, kitchen, laundry service, massage available, across the busy Great Boulevard ring road and a very long block from Nyugati train station at 12 Visegrádi utca, district XIII, M3: Nyugati pu., tel. 1/239-0782, www.aventurahostel.com, info@aventurahostel.com). They also rent several apartments—two nearby, the other near St. István’s Basilica (all Db-€84).
$ Home Made Hostel is a fun-and-funky slumbermill artfully littered with secondhand furniture. It’s run and decorated with a sense of humor. With 20 beds in four rooms located near the Oktogon, it’s another good option (bunk in 8-bed dorm-€14, in 4-bed dorm-€16, D-€39, apartment Db-€42, includes sheets and towels, no breakfast, guest computer, Wi-Fi, kitchen, laundry service, Teréz körút 22, district VI, M1: Oktogon, tel. 1/302-2103, www.homemadehostel.com, info@homemadehostel.com).
The Víziváros neighborhood—or “Water Town”—is the lively part of Buda squeezed between Castle Hill and the Danube, where fishermen and tanners used to live. Víziváros is the most pleasant central area to stay on the Buda side of the Danube, with fine views across the river toward the Parliament building and bustling Pest. It’s expensive and a little less convenient than Pest, but feels less urban.
The following hotels are in district I, between the Chain Bridge and Buda’s busy Margit körút ring road. Trams #19 and #41 zip along the embankment in either direction. Batthyány tér, a few minutes’ walk away, is a handy center with lots of restaurants (see next page), a Metró stop (M2/red line), and the HÉV train to Óbuda and Szentendre. All of these places come with professional, helpful staff.
$$$ Hotel Victoria, with 27 stylish, business-class rooms—each with a grand river view and attention to detail—is a class act. This tall, narrow place (three rooms on each of nine floors) is run with pride and attention to detail by on-the-ball manager Zoltán and his friendly staff (Sb-€129, Db-€134, extra bed-€30, 20 percent cheaper Nov-March, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, cheap international phone calls, free sauna, free afternoon tea for guests 16:00-17:00, reserve ahead for €16/day parking garage or park free on street, Bem rakpart 11, tel. 1/457-8080, www.victoria.hu, victoria@victoria.hu). The painstakingly restored 19th-century Hubay Palace behind the hotel (entrance next to reception) is used for concerts and other events. It feels like a museum, with inlaid floors, stained-glass windows, and stuccoed walls and ceilings—even if you’re not staying at Hotel Victoria, drop in and ask to see it.
$$$ art’otel impresses New York City sophisticates. Every detail—from the breakfast dishes to the carpets to the good-luck blackbird perched in each room—was designed by American artist Donald Sultan. This stylish, fun hotel has 165 rooms spread between two attached buildings: the new section fronting the Danube and a restored older house just behind it (high rack rates, but usually Sb/Db-€99-165 depending on season, figure Sb/Db-€129 in summer, Danube view-€20 more, bigger “art rooms plus”-€35 more, deluxe “art suites”-€60 more, breakfast-€14, non-smoking rooms, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free sauna and mini-exercise room, bike rental, Bem rakpart 16-19, tel. 1/487-9487, www.artotels.com, budapest@artotels.com).
$ Bellevue B&B is one of Budapest’s best deals. It hides in a quiet residential area on the Víziváros hillside just below the Fishermen’s Bastion staircase. This gem is run by retired economists Judit (YOO-deet) and Lajos (LIE-yosh) Szuhay, who lived in Canada for four years and speak flawless English. The breakfast room and some of the six straightforward, comfortable rooms have views across the Danube to the Parliament and Pest. Judit and Lajos love to chat, and pride themselves on offering genuine hospitality and a warm welcome (let them know what time you’re arriving). As this B&B is understandably popular, book ahead (Sb-€50-65, Db-€60-75; price depends on room size, view, and length of stay; 20-30 percent cheaper Nov-March, cash only, non-smoking, air-con, Wi-Fi; M2: Batthyány tér plus a 10-minute uphill walk, or bus #16 from Deák, Széchenyi, or Adam Clark squares to Dónati utca plus a 2-minute walk uphill, then downhill—they’ll email you detailed directions; Szabó Ilonka utca 15/B, mobile 0630-370-8678 or 0630-951-5494, www.bellevuebudapest.com, judit@bellevuebudapest.com).
Romantics may enjoy calling Castle Hill home (district I). These places couldn’t be closer to the Castle Hill sights, but they’re in a tourist zone—dead at night, and less convenient to Pest than other listings.
$$$ St. George Residence, just a couple of short blocks from Matthias Church, rents 24 elegant rooms around a restful garden courtyard. Each room is different and comes with a kitchenette (Db-€129, more for bigger rooms, air-con, Wi-Fi, Fortuna utca 4, tel. 1/393-5700, www.stgeorgehotel.hu, info@stgeorgehotel.hu).
$$ Hotel Castle Garden huddles above an Italian restaurant in a tranquil, park-like neighborhood just outside the castle’s Vienna Gate (north end). As it’s roughly on the way between the castle and Széll Kálmán tér, it’s relatively handy, though still less convenient than the Víziváros listings. But its 39 tastefully appointed, contemporary rooms are a good value for the quality (Sb-€79, Db-€89, maybe less June-Aug and Nov-April, “superior” room with terrace for €20 more, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking garage-€10, Lovas út 41, M2: Széll Kálmán tér; exit the castle through the Vienna Gate and turn left along the wall, or hike up from Széll Kálmán tér and turn right along the castle wall; tel. 1/224-7420, www.castlegarden.hu, hotel@castlegarden.hu).
$$ Burg Hotel, with 26 overpriced rooms on Holy Trinity Square (Szentháromság tér), is simply efficient: concrete, spacious, and comfy, if a bit worn, with a professional staff. You’ll find more conveniently located hotels for less money elsewhere, but if you simply must stay in a modern hotel across the street from Matthias Church, this is it (official rates: Sb-€105, Db-€115, Db apartment-€134, but rates very soft—usually more like €85-99, extra bed-€15, 10 percent discount off their official online rate if you book direct and mention this book—unless they’re very busy, 20 percent cheaper Nov-March, request view room for no extra charge, entirely non-smoking, no elevator, air-con, top-floor rooms are extremely long, family rooms, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Szentháromság tér 7, tel. 1/212-0269, www.burghotelbudapest.com, hotel.burg@mail.datanet.hu).