Sopron (SHOH-prohn), nestled in the foothills of the Alps a stone’s throw from Austria, is a picture-perfect little Baroque town jam-packed with historic buildings. Its square—watched over by the town’s symbol, the Fire Tower—may be Hungary’s most romantic. Because Austrians flock over the border to sightsee, sample the local wine, and get dental work done (at a fraction of the cost back home), then stumble home, the town’s streets are lined with modest museums and dentist’s offices.
Sopron, populated since Roman times, was a stop on the Amber Route of trade between the Adriatic and Baltic Seas. As a Hungarian backwater of Austria’s Vienna, the town has long been a unique bilingual mix of Hungarian and Germanic culture. But it’s always remained true to Hungary, most famously after World War I, when residents voted to stick with the Magyars rather than becoming part of Austria—earning it the nickname “the most loyal town.” Even so, its proximity to Austria keeps Sopron in touch with its Germanic heritage. Today Sopron caters almost entirely to its German-speaking tourists (while English is in short supply).
Sopron is sleepy...sometimes too sleepy. After dark, the Main Square is magical—but deserted. Museum attendants react to your visit as though they’ve never seen a tourist before. With a little more restoration and liveliness in the Old Town, it could become a major draw. For now, this not-quite-ready-for-prime-time Hungarian burg is a delightful hidden secret.
Sopron deserves a half-day. A few hours is more than enough time to exhaust its sightseeing options, and its sleepiness makes the initial “Oh, wow!” wear off quickly. Sopron fits perfectly on a trip between Budapest and Vienna (adding about an hour to your total train time between those cities). Consider arriving at midday, spending the afternoon here, then either taking a late train out, or spending the night and leaving the next morning.
On a brief visit, lock up your bag at the station and do a spin through the Old Town. With a little more time, explore the Ikva neighborhood northeast of town. If you’re here for a while, head into the Lőver Hills.
Sopron, with about 60,000 inhabitants, is a manageable small city. The compact tourist zone of the Old Town (Belváros) contains most of Sopron’s attractions, and you can walk from one end to the other in less than 10 minutes. The retail district along the ring road (Várkerület) that follows the former outer walls surrounding the Old Town is much livelier, and the gently rolling Lőver Hills embrace the entire city.
Sopron’s TI (called TourInform) hands out maps and brochures about the town and has free Internet access. It’s in the big, yellow Franz Liszt Cultural Center at the southwest corner of the Old Town (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-13:00—except closed Sun Oct-April, Liszt Ferenc utca 1, tel. 99/517-560, www.turizmus.sopron.hu). The TI is next to the city’s central box office, which has tickets and information on local cultural events.
By Train: Sopron’s compact little train station is situated an easy half-mile walk south of the Old Town. Stepping into the main lobby with your back to the tracks, you’ll find luggage lockers (on left), an ATM (on right), an international ticket window (ahead on left), and a domestic ticket window (ahead on right).
Outside on the left is a taxi stand (about 1,300 Ft to hotels at the far end of town, taxi tel. 99/333-333). You can also hop a bus heading into town (#1, #2, #10, #10Y, #12, and #12A); all go directly to the Várkerület ring road that encircles the Old Town. Note: As you exit the station, the bus stop directly to your left is for buses going away from town; for buses into town, walk a half-block straight ahead and look for the stop on the right side of the street. You can buy a ticket for 300 Ft from a kiosk, or pay 350 Ft to the driver.
It’s a 10-minute walk into the Old Town—just go straight out of the station and head four blocks up Mátyás király utca toward the big yellow building in the distance (halfway there, you’ll cross the long, skinny park called Deák tér). When you reach the park-like Széchenyi tér, cross into it, turn left at the flagpole (commemorating Hungarian uprisings throughout history), and look for the big, yellow building on the right (the Franz Liszt Cultural Center). The TI is inside, and the street next to it—Templom utca—is the main drag through the Old Town.
Templom Utca (“Church Street”)
Forestry Museum (Erdészeti Gyűjtemény)
Central Mining Museum (Központi Bányászati Múzeum)
Fabricius House (Fabricius-Ház)
St. George’s Street (Szent György Utca)
THE IKVA NEIGHBORHOOD, NORTHEAST OF THE OLD TOWN
▲Zettl-Langer Collection (Zettl-Langer Gyűjtemény)
Sopron’s Old Town is peppered with museums, but only a few are worthwhile (if tight on time or money, visit the Storno House and climb the Fire Tower, but skip the rest). Notice that these sights are ordered so they form a handy orientation walk (which begins where the “Arrival in Sopron” directions, earlier, leave off). While the Old Town is charming, it can feel pretty dead. The main business street, Várkerület, which arcs around the Old Town, makes up for this, and the square around the Fidelity Monument at the far side of town can be full of energy.
• Begin exploring the town in front of the TI and the yellow...
The huge building holds Sopron’s main concert hall, TI, and central box office. The side facing Széchenyi tér is boldly marked with the words Magyar Művelődés Háza (“House of Hungarian Culture”) to show up their Germanic rivals. Its current name honors the composer who was born in Sopron county (back when it was part of Austria) and performed his first-ever public concert here in Sopron in 1820, when he was only nine years old. Notice the bust (to the right of the entrance) honoring this favorite son. You’ll see “Liszt played here” signs all over town.
• Now head into the Old Town on...
This was where important local bigwigs lived: mayors, lawyers, and intelligentsia. The town’s sturdy wall spared it from being devastated by the Tatar and Ottoman invaders who reshaped much of Hungary. However, a fire, quickly spread by the strong winds that blow through this valley, consumed the town in 1676. Sopron was rebuilt in Baroque style (often over earlier Gothic cellars), which has left it colorful and tidy-looking. You’ll notice that every other building has a MŰEMLÉK (“historical monument”) plaque. Although lots of locally important people and events have graced Sopron, very little of this history is meaningful to visitors. Don’t worry about the nitty-gritty of the town’s past—just enjoy its ambience.
Notice the many fine passages leading to noble courtyards. For example, near the end of the first, very long block, at #12 (on the left), go into the Gothic passage (with pointy arches), which goes into a little courtyard with a Renaissance porch (with rounded arches), showing the evolution of the local architecture.
Back on the main street and a few steps down, the big church on the left is Lutheran. Because the local mayor protected the rights of religious minorities, Sopron was unusually tolerant, attracting groups who were persecuted elsewhere (such as Lutherans at the time of the Reformation). The first Lutheran congregation here was established in 1565, and the current building dates from 1782. Inside, the fine 1884 pipe organ and stately pulpit emphasize the Lutheran emphasis on preaching the word of God. The white-marble 1946 monument just outside the door memorializes the boarded-up windows of Sopron’s Jewish ghetto; the local Jewish population was decimated during the Holocaust (we’ll learn more about this dark time later).
• When the road forks at the green building, stay left. In the next block on the left are two very modest museums, dedicated to Sopron’s major industries. First, at #4, is the...
While most of Hungary’s geography consists of rolling plains and farmland, the area around Sopron is heavily wooded. This museum, part of the local Forestry College, celebrates that heritage, but has virtually no English information and is worthwhile only if you have a special interest. A second collection, upstairs, features the big- and small-game hunting trophies of Béla Hidvégi, a Hungarian sportsman who has traveled the world (a touchscreen provides information in English).
After the 1956 Uprising, there was an exodus of teachers and students from Sopron’s Forestry College to Vancouver, British Columbia. To this day, Hungarians play a major role in the Canadian timber industry.
Cost and Hours: 800 Ft for each collection, 1,300 Ft for both; May-Oct Thu-Tue 10:00-17:00, Nov-Dec and Feb-April Thu-Tue 14:00-17:00; closed Wed year-round and likely closed in Jan; Templom utca 4, tel. 99/338-870.
• Next door at #2 is the slightly more interesting...
Displayed around a courtyard in the beautiful town house of a powerful local family, this museum explains the lives of miners and the history of Hungarian mining and coinage. It also features a life-size replica of a mineshaft and small-scale working models of mining equipment. Collections include decorative items made of metal, and rock and mineral samples. Look for the little dioramas-in-bottles, which were created by miners.
Cost and Hours: 700 Ft; April-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Oct Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Nov-March Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00, closed Mon year-round; Templom utca 2, tel. 99/312-667, www.kbm.hu.
• At the end of the block, the street opens into the main square. Before exploring the square, visit the Gothic church on the right...
So nicknamed for the goat on the coat of arms over its door, this prominent Benedictine church is a Sopron landmark. While much of the rest of Hungary was occupied by the Ottomans, this region remained in Hungarian hands—and this church was actually used for a few royal coronations and parliament sessions. The Gothic interior is adorned with wood-carved Baroque altars and a Rococo pulpit. Notice how the once-clean Gothic apse has been obliterated by the retrofitted Baroque altar—illustrating how little regard each era had for the previous one’s art. On the right, find the plaque listing the ancestors of István Széchenyi who are buried here. (Széchenyi was a powerful 18th-century aristocrat who championed the rights of the poor and built, among other things, Budapest’s Chain Bridge.) By the door, you can pop in a coin to light things up: 200 Ft for a little light, or 400 Ft for lots of light.
Other parts of the church require an additional admission fee (not worth it): the crypt, where various old graves and tombs have been consolidated into a tasteful modern mausoleum; a series of touchscreen terminals that offer additional information about specific church features; and the little cloister and chapter hall, where the carvings that top the columns represent human sins.
Cost and Hours: The church is open daily 8:00-19:00 (likely closes earlier in winter). During certain times when the touchscreen exhibition is open (Tue-Sun 10:00-12:00 & 13:00-17:00), you’ll pay 400 Ft for the church or 800 Ft to also enter the crypt and chapter house; at other times, it’s free to enter the church but the exhibition is closed.
• Leaving the church, you’re in the middle of Sopron’s...
One of the most appealing Old World squares in Hungary, this area is dominated by the giant Holy Trinity Column, erected in 1701 to commemorate the 1695 plague. The wealthy local couple who survived the plague and commissioned the column kneel in thanksgiving at its base. Above them, the column corkscrews up to heaven, marked by Jesus, God the Father, and a dove representing the Holy Spirit. Gleeful cherubs, as if celebrating life after the plague, ride back down the column like kids on a waterslide.
Grand buildings surround the column. Orient yourself with the Goat Church to your back: On the left is the big, white, Neoclassical County Hall. To the right of it are three historic houses, two of which contain museums. The tall Fire Tower (described later) is the town’s main landmark. Next to it is the vast, off-white 19th-century Town Hall, in the eye-pleasing Historicist style of the day. (Those interested in ancient history can walk behind the Town Hall to see fragments of Roman-era Sopron, with posted English information.) Across from the Town Hall, the little yellow building sticking out into the square houses a small Pharmacy Museum (Patika-Ház), which was a working pharmacy from 1642 to 1967 (you can see most everything from the door with a sweep of your head, or pay 500 Ft to examine the exhibits up close; Tue-Sun 10:00-14:00, closed Mon). In the early 16th century, local officials wanted to tear down this house to enlarge the square. But the king, who had visited Sopron earlier and enjoyed the square the way it was, decreed that it not be touched...making it Hungary’s first government-protected building.
• If you’re ready for some museum going, consider the two collections in the pretty Baroque house with the corner turret overlooking the square.
This prime real estate is marked with plaques celebrating visits by two big-league Hungarians: King Mátyás (Matthias) Corvinus and Franz Liszt. Today the building houses two exhibits: the Storno Collection and the “History without Borders” exhibition.
Cost and Hours: Storno Collection-1,000 Ft, history exhibit-700 Ft; both open April-Oct Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Nov-March Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00, closed Mon year-round; Fő tér 8, tel. 99/311-327, www.muzeum.sopron.hu.
Visiting the Museum: Sopron’s best museum is the Storno Collection (Storno-Gyűjtemény), upstairs. Franz Storno, the son of a poor 19th-century Swiss family of chimney sweeps, showed prodigious talent as an artist at a young age and ultimately became quite a Renaissance man. He moved here to Sopron, married a chimney-sweep master’s widow, and became a restorer of buildings for the Habsburg Empire.
Today, in his creaky old house, charming attendants direct visitors through a series of jam-packed rooms to look at a random but fun grab-bag of paintings, decorative items, and other bric-a-brac that Franz collected in his renovation work. While you can borrow an English leaflet for a room-by-room description, renting the cheap audioguide (200 Ft) makes the place much more meaningful—well worth the 30 minutes its narration takes. Following this forces you to take time to look around, and it highlights wonderful little details.
In the entrance hall, check out the panorama painting of 18th-century Sopron (high up on the wall). Later, the balcony room boasts a gorgeously painted, light-filled alcove with table and chairs (as well as more paintings of old Sopron). The old iron box in the middle of this room has a complicated secret-locking system. Passing through the painted door into the bedroom, look for the Biedermeier paintings on the ceilings. The antler chandelier shows a 3-D version of the family seal: chimney-sweeping brush in one hand, compass (for restoration work) in the other.
In the final room (the salon), you’ll see square tables with hinged edges that can be brought up to make them circular. These were practical but also superstitious: It was considered bad luck for a young woman to sit at the corner of a table (either she’d never marry or have a difficult mother-in-law, depending on the legend), so this design ensured that would never happen.
Downstairs, the well-presented “History without Borders” (Határtalan Történet) exhibit, which traces the history of Sopron, is also worth a look (no audioguide, but good English information posted). In the final room, find the exhibit about the post-World War I referendum in which Sopron elected to remain part of Hungary instead of Austria. The referendum, which took place in December of 1921, asked citizens to vote with color-coded ballots whether they would join Austria or Hungary. As you can see from the bilingual posters announcing the results, Hungary won 15,334 votes to Austria’s 8,227. This cemented Sopron’s already-established reputation as being the “most loyal town.” (Maybe it was because other Austrians would never let them live down the town’s German name, Ödenburg, which roughly means “Dullsville.”)
Nearby, you’ll see propaganda trying to convince locals to vote one way or another—such as the unsettling poster of the skeleton, clad in traditional Hungarian folk costume, menacingly serenading the town on his violin.
• Two buildings to the left of the Storno House is the...
This historic mansion, once belonging to Sopron’s most beloved mayor, is home to a pair of dull, skippable museums. The Civic Apartments (Polgári Lakások), basically a collection of old furniture, will appeal only to antique lovers. The Archaeological Exhibit (Régészet-Kőtár) is a very dry overview of the history of Sopron, especially relating to the Amber Road trade route that put the town on the map. The best part is the Roman Lapidarium in the cellar (same ticket)—a collection of Roman tombstones unearthed here, as well as the shattered fragments of three larger-than-life Roman statues.
Cost and Hours: Apartments-800 Ft, archaeological exhibit-700 Ft; both open April-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon and Oct-March, Fő tér 6.
• Dominating the Main Square is Sopron’s symbol, the...
A Roman watchtower once stood here, but the current version was gradually expanded from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Fire watchmen would survey the town from the top of the tower, then mark the direction of a fire with colorful flags (by day) or a bright light (at night) to warn townspeople.
Cost and Hours: 1,150 Ft, May-Aug daily 10:00-20:00, April and Sept-Dec daily 10:00-18:0, shorter hours off-season, can be closed in bad weather, Fő tér 1, www.tuztorony.sopron.hu.
Visiting the Tower: Just above the passage through the gate is a stone carving depicting Hungária, the female embodiment of Hungary—given to the city to thank them for choosing Hungary during the 1921 referendum.
Buy your ticket and climb the 120 steps to the top. On the way up, pause at the landings to check out the exhibits. There are historic photos and drawings of the tower, and the original double-headed Habsburg eagle—with an “L” for the Emperor Leopold—that topped the tower’s spire.
At the top, do a clockwise spin: First is a great view over the rooftops of the Old Town; beyond that, you can see the Lőver Hills, Sopron’s playground. (While the name sounds romantic, lőver refers to master archers who defended the border from Tatar invasions in the 13th century.) Continuing around the tower and looking down, you’ll see remains of the city wall defining the Old Town; an outer wall was once located on the outside of today’s ring road. Beyond the stadium lights is Austria. A bit farther to the right, the big steeple in the distance is St. Michael’s, one of Sopron’s historic churches. Farther to the right, the oddly shaped bulbous tower on the hill is a windmill missing its blades. This was used to garrison Habsburg troops after the 1848 Revolution.
• Descending from the tower, continue through the gateway.
Just on the other side of the tower, look for the giant key monument on the left, commemorating a “key” event in this loyal town’s history. After presenting the Hungarian king with the key to their city when his rival was planning an invasion, Sopron was rewarded with free “royal town” status, which came with special privileges (in 1277). Just beyond is the entrance to the City Wall Walk (Várfal Sétány), where you can walk along part of the course of the surviving wall (not particularly scenic since it’s outside the wall rather than on top of it; free, Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00).
Just outside the Old Town, you reach the ring road and a livelier zone. Look (on your left) for a modern sculpture with three figures, each one representing a time when Sopron demonstrated its fidelity: 1277, when the town sided with the Hungarian king (described earlier); 1921, when they voted to remain part of Hungary; and 1989, when the Iron Curtain fell (symbolized by the woman breaking the barbed wire). In August of that fateful year—before the communists had officially given up the ghost—the “Pan-European Picnic” took place in the hills near Sopron. Residents of various Central European countries—East Germany, Austria, and Hungary—came together for the first time in decades, offering a tantalizing taste of freedom.
Across the busy ring road from this sculpture, look for the Golden Lion Pharmacy (Gyógyszertár Apotheke sign), which has beautiful Art Nouveau Zsolnay porcelain decorations.
Looking back toward the Old Town, notice the colorful little shops that cling like baby animals to the protective town walls.
• From here, you can backtrack to the Main Square and head down New Street to more sights (described next). Or keep going beyond the walls into the Ikva neighborhood (described in the “Ikva Neighborhood” section).
To see more of the Old Town, take the street to the left of the Pharmacy Museum (as you face it). This is...
This misnamed street is actually one of the oldest in town. Near the start of the street (a few steps down from the Main Square), the building at the fork has remains of the original forum of Sopron’s Roman settlement in its basement (likely closed to the public except by prior reservation—but if you see a museum here and are interested in ancient ruins, drop in).
Continue to the right, down New Street—which used to be called “Jewish Street” (Zsidó utca) until the Jews were kicked out in 1526. After the 1848 Revolution, they finally returned...but for less than a century. When the Nazis took control of Hungary, they walled off both ends of this street and turned it into a ghetto. Some 1,840 Sopron Jews were eventually sent to concentration camps...where 1,650 of them died. Along the street, about one block down, are two synagogues. The first is the New Synagogue (Új Zsinagóga), in a modern office on the left at #11. It’s not a museum, but if the door is open you can peek inside.
A few steps down, on the right at #22, is the Old Synagogue (Ó Zsinagóga), dating from the early 14th century (800 Ft, borrow English descriptions, April-Oct Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon and Nov-March, Új utca 22, tel. 99/311-327). Rediscovered in 1968, it has been renovated but still retains a few of its original elements (such as the Torah holder). Notice the two adjacent rooms, separated by narrow windows: Men worshipped in the main room, with the women in the smaller room. In the courtyard is a reconstruction of a ritual bath.
• New Street ends at Ursula Square (Orsolya tér), watched over by the Church of St. Ursula and a statue of Mary that stands in the center of the square. If you double back to the left, you can head up the third of old Sopron’s three parallel streets...
This street is named for the red-and-white Church of St. George (halfway down the street on the right, free, daily 8:00-18:00). The beautiful, stuccoed Baroque interior hosted Lutheran services for a time, but the Lutherans were evicted during the Counter-Reformation. Head across the street and into the fine Renaissance courtyard at #12, where the Lutherans were forced to worship al fresco. Notice the stone pulpit carved into the upper balcony, and the metal rings used to secure a tarp that covered the service in bad weather.
• St. George’s Street will take you right back up to the Main Square, where—if you haven’t already—you can head into...
With a little more time, venture into the workaday streets northeast of the Old Town—beyond the ring road and the Ikva brook (hidden here beneath the road). While lacking the storybook charm of the Old Town, this area is also historic. Back when wealthy aristocrats populated the Old Town, farmers and craftsmen lived here—giving it a rustic, lived-in ambience that’s fun to explore. (It’s also home to several recommended accommodations, and the good Jégverem restaurant—see “Sleeping in Sopron” and “Eating in Sopron,” later.)
The main drag changes names as it twists through this neighborhood (first called Ikva híd, then Dorfmeister utca, then Szent Mihály utca). Eventually it leads up a hill to St. Michael’s Church (Szent Mihály Templom) and the adjacent little Romanesque chapel. The church complex is surrounded by a cemetery.
• Closer to the Belváros, but still in the Ikva neighborhood, is one final Sopron sight, the...
A Bavarian art lover named Gustav Zettl came to Sopron in the late 19th century, set up a distillery, and became a pillar of the community. Today his descendants (usually his great-granddaughter, Ágnes Langer, who speaks English) lead tours of this fine old townhouse that’s jammed with Gustav’s eclectic private collection of furniture, porcelain, paintings, knickknacks, and more. Ágnes will show you everything from a collection of ancient Roman vessels to fine inlaid furniture (find out why a “money changer’s table” has a marble top) to delicately decorated windows to all manner of clever cupboards with hidden panels and drawers. It’s similar in many ways to the excellent Storno Collection on the Main Square, but because the family still resides here, this is a unique opportunity to see a very lived-in home that feels like a museum (or vice versa). Each item on display has been in the family for generations, and Ágnes relishes telling their stories in as much detail as you’d like to hear. Near the end is Gustav’s death announcement, in a frame that also holds a stack of dozens more. It must be both sobering and comforting for Gustav’s descendants to know that their death notices will be added to the family stack someday. The public can only visit with a tour (generally about 40 minutes); it’s smart to call ahead to let Ágnes know you’re coming.
Cost and Hours: 1,000 Ft per person to enter, plus 2,000 Ft for the group for the mandatory tour; April-Oct Tue-Sun 10:00-12:00, closed Mon; Nov-March Fri-Sun 10:00-12:00, closed Mon-Thu; Balfi utca 11, tel. 99/311-136.
With its forested hillsides and fresh air, Sopron is popular with hikers. To get to the best trailhead, take bus #1 or #2 from the Old Town to Lőver Körút, and get off at the giant-domed bath complex. From here, several trails lead through the hills. Before setting out, get advice from the TI (they can give you a free map, or sell you a better one).
Few places have air-conditioning; even fewer have an elevator (I’ve noted those that do).
You’ll pay a bit extra to be right in the Old Town. But it’s worth it—not for the convenience, but for the romance of calling those floodlit cobbles home after dark.
$$$ Hotel Wollner, a top option in Sopron, has real class. This 600-year-old Baroque townhouse on the Old Town’s main street is thoroughly renovated and rents 18 tastefully appointed rooms. An inviting terraced garden in the rear rounds out its appeal (Sb-23,000 Ft, Db-29,000 Ft, bigger superior Db-34,000 Ft, Tb-34,000 Ft, entirely non-smoking, free Wi-Fi, Templom utca 20, tel. 99/524-400, www.wollner.hu, wollner@wollner.hu).
$$$ Pannonia Med Hotel rents 79 rooms on the ring road just across from the Old Town. The large public areas recall Sopron’s faded elegance, while the rooms are straightforward business-class and charmless. As you’re paying a premium for its big-hotel services (such as a swimming pool and fitness center), it’s a bit overpriced (rates vary based on demand, but the inflated “rack rates” are smaller “classic” Db with older furnishings-19,000 Ft, 2,500 Ft more for bigger and newer “comfort” Db with air-con; elevator, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, street noise—ask for quieter room, Várkerület 75, tel. 99/312-180, www.pannoniahotel.com, sopron@hotelpannonia.com).
$$ Palatinus Hotel is a soulless, tour-oriented place with 31 rooms. But it’s a good value—modern, well-priced, and ideally located in the heart of the Old Town (rates vary but typically Sb-9,000 Ft, Db-13,000 Ft, three floors with no elevator, non-smoking rooms, free Wi-Fi, parking-2,000 Ft/day—reserve ahead, Új utca 23, tel. 99/523-816, www.palatinussopron.com, info@palatinussopron.com).
These four accommodations are just outside the ring road. While not as romantic as the Old Town, this appealing residential zone is also historic. The first three places are a five-minute, slightly uphill walk from the Old Town, while the fourth (the best value) is about five minutes farther up.
$$ Erhardt Panzió rents nine rooms above their upscale-feeling restaurant, in a nicely restored house on a quiet, if dingy, street (Sb-10,000 Ft, Db-14,000 Ft, air-con, Wi-Fi, Balfi utca 10, tel. 99/506-711, www.erhardts.hu, info@erhardts.hu).
$$ Wieden Panzió, run by the Fazekas family, has 15 basic but crisp, recently renovated rooms (Sb-8,000 Ft, Db-11,000 Ft, Tb-14,000 Ft, some very large rooms also available, Wi-Fi, some street noise—request quiet room on the courtyard, Sas tér 13, tel. 99/523-222, wieden@fullnet.hu).
$ Jégverem Fogadó (“Ice House Inn”), with a recommended restaurant, rents five cheap, simple, well-worn rooms upstairs from its busy eatery (Sb-7,400 Ft, Db-9,800 Ft, extra bed-2,000 Ft, breakfast extra, Wi-Fi, Jégverem utca 1, tel. 99/510-113, www.jegverem.hu, jegverem@jegverem.hu).
$ Csőszkunyhó Fogadó (“Field Guard’s Shelter”) sits across the street from St. Michael’s Church, on a small hill near the Old Town. Above this local restaurant are two beautiful, spacious, woody rooms—the nicest I’ve seen in Sopron in this price range. The catch: limited English is spoken (Sb-4,900 Ft, Db-6,900 Ft, Tb-9,300 Ft, cash only, Wi-Fi, Szent Mihály utca 35, tel. 99/506-588, www.csoszkunyho.hu, csoszkunyho@gmail.com).
(SEE "SOPRON" MAP, here.)
You might notice lots of bean dishes on the menu in Sopron. The thrifty Germans—who were responsible for most of the winemaking in the surrounding hills—would plant beans in the earth between their rows of vines. In fact, in local dialect, German residents are called “bean farmers.” Sopron is also known for its local beer (called Soproni) and for its local wines.
Jégverem Fogadó (“Ice House Inn”) serves up heaping plates of reliably tasty Hungarian food from a clever, descriptive menu. It’s worth the five-minute walk outside the Old Town (near several recommended accommodations). The circular table in the middle of the cozy dining room peers down into a pit where ice was stored, to be sold through the hot summer months. In good weather, sit out on the inviting terrace. As portions are huge, consider sharing or ordering a smaller dish (1,700-2,800-Ft meals, daily 11:00-23:00, Jégverem utca 1, tel. 99/510-113).
Corvinus, across from the City Hall and in the shadow of the Fire Tower, is a no-brainer for a romantic al fresco dinner on the Main Square. With a traditional menu of good Hungarian classics and a few international dishes, the place sprawls into a wine cellar and its sister restaurant next door, the Generális café (1,400-2,900-Ft main dishes, also indoor seating, daily 11:30-22:00, Fő tér 7-8, tel. 99/505-035).
Papa Joe’s, an American-style steakhouse, had my travel sensibilities crying, “No!”—but my stomach saying, “Hmmmm...maybe.” Here’s your chance to experience the Old West through Hungarian eyes. Done up to the nines like a cowboy saloon (including six-shooter-handle doorknobs and saddle barstools), this theme restaurant grills up steaks and other Tex-Mex dishes (such as baked beans). When locals want a break from Hungarian food, they come here (2,000-4,000-Ft main dishes, daily 11:00-24:00, Várkerület 108, tel. 99/340-933).
Erhardt Restaurant, in the Ikva neighborhood just outside the Old Town (a 5-minute walk away), serves Hungarian and international fare in a sophisticated-feeling, white-tablecloth, mellow dining room. They also have a wine shop and a lengthy wine list (2,500-4,000-Ft main dishes, daily 11:30-23:00, Balfi utca 10, tel. 99/506-711).
Fast and Cheap: Nagymama Konyhája (“Grandma’s Kitchen”) is your best option for a quick, no-frills meal. This small self-service cafeteria, filled with locals, specializes in savory and sweet crêpes (palacsinta, 600-900 Ft), but also offers other traditional Hungarian dishes. Just point to what you want, or ask to see the clear English menu (900-1,200 Ft for most meals, Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-21:00, Várkerület 104, mobile 0620-315-8730).
Coffee and Cake: Dömötöri Kávéház is a pastry and coffee shop slinging a wide array of cakes and fancy ice-cream dishes—with seating in a classy interior, in an aristocratic upstairs, and out on a pretty square across from the big, yellow Franz Liszt Center. It’s where locals satisfy their sweet tooth (500-Ft desserts, June-Aug daily 8:00-23:00, closes earlier off-season, Széchenyi tér 13, tel. 99/506-623).
From Sopron by Train to: Budapest (6/day direct, 3 hours, more with a transfer in Győr), Eger (about every 2 hours, 5-6 hours, transfer in Budapest and sometimes also in Füzesabony), Pécs (1/day direct in the morning, 5.5 hours; otherwise about every 2 hours, 5.5 hours, most transfer at Budapest’s suburban Kelenföld station), Bratislava, Slovakia (hourly direct, 2.5 hours on RegionalExpress/REX; more with transfers at stations in downtown and/or suburban Vienna), Vienna, Austria (every 2 hours direct on RegionalExpress/REX, 1.5 hours; also 1-2/hour with transfer in Weiner Neustadt, 1.75 hours).