Egg Noodles with Savoy Cabbage and Sausage

In the Old Country, homemade lokshen (egg noodles) were once a criterion by which a Jewish woman’s worth was measured. Even in the New Country, women continued to make homemade noodles on the Lower East Side of Manhattan and other places Jews settled. One of our great-aunts would make lokshen at home on Thursday nights in preparation for Shabbat, and over the course of the evening, members of the family would trickle in. Each one took home a care package filled with noodles and strudel.

In this recipe, we’ve paired wide egg noodles with a classic Eastern European combination of cabbage and spicy chicken sausage. This is a wonderful winter pasta dish, or for any time you are in the mood for something hearty and satisfying. The sauce can be prepared hours, or even a day, ahead.

SERVES 6

1 savoy cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and quartered

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped (about ½ cup)

2 medium carrots, peeled, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 2 teaspoons)

2 teaspoons crushed fennel seeds

8 ounces hot Italian chicken sausage, casings removed and meat crumbled

½ cup dry white wine

Up to 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

12 ounces wide egg noodles

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ to 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Freshly ground black pepper

Using a steamer, steam the cabbage quarters until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. When cool enough to handle, slice thinly.

In a large heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrots, and garlic and sauté until the onion is translucent and has begun to soften, about 7 minutes. Add the fennel seeds and sausage meat, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring, until the meat is browned evenly, about 5 minutes.

Add the cabbage, wine, and 1 cup stock to the meat mixture. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the cabbage is cooked, about 20 minutes. Add more stock, a few tablespoons at a time, if needed to keep the mixture moist.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook until very al dente, about 8 minutes (or follow package directions). Drain the noodles, return them to the pot, and add 1 cup of the sauce. Toss over high heat for 1 minute. Stir in the parsley, nutmeg, and pepper (to taste). Transfer to a serving platter or shallow wide bowl, top with the remaining sauce, and serve.