< Around California Wine Country
Wineries extend Northwest into the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County, stretching toward the Pacific Ocean, whose consistently cool, moist climate makes Mendocino Wine Country a realm of Gewürztraminer and other “green wine” grapes. Delightful B&B inns speckle the region, where deep valleys are shaded by majestic redwood forests, salmon swim in sparkling streams, and golden eagles soar overhead. The Anderson Valley is a gateway to the majestic Mendocino coastline. To the northeast, the vineyards of the upper Russian River Valley are interspersed with walnut and pear farms. The mountainous and thickly forested Lake Country region draws visitors to Clear Lake – the largest natural lake wholly within California. It offers fishing and other watersports.
Drained by the Navarro River, this valley is a sparsely populated Shangri-La, with a delightful climate tempered by cool marine air that creeps in from the sea. SR-128 twists its way northwest between stands of redwood and fir trees, passing through scattered hamlets populated by aging hippies, old loggers, and a young breed of vintners with concern for the Earth. Its vineyards, which hug broad ridge-top plateaus and benches, produce world class Pinot Noir and Alsace varietals.
This rustic farming community on the west bank of the Russian River is set amid oak covered hills. It is named for the hop-growing industry that flourished here for a century until it was killed off by mildew in the mid-1950s. The Hopland Band of Pomo Indians operates the Hopland Sho-Ka-Wah Casino on tribal lands east of town. Hopland is the main gateway to Clear Lake, via SR-175 which snakes uphill.
Founded in 1938 by Swiss immigrants, Weibel Family Vineyards is run by the fourth generation of Weibels, who continue a family tradition of producing premium California sparkling wines from estate-grown Pinot Noir grapes, as well as a particular wine of note – Green Hungarian – first produced here in 1959 from a grape of obscure origin. The relaxed tasting room is welcoming, and visitors can marvel at the panoramic vine-yard and valley views from a deck.
This boutique winery in the upper Russian River Valley is acclaimed for its earth-friendly practices, reflecting the owners’ desire to create “America’s Greenest Winery.” Tours teach visitors about sustainable viticulture, such as how cover crops help attract beneficial insects and maintain soil vigor. The tasting room doubles as a delicatessen that sells picnic foods, which can be enjoyed on a garden patio with a fountain. Parducci also hosts special events.
The former logging town of Ukiah is considered one of the most desirable places to live in California. Nestled in the Yokayo valley and protected from wind and fog by the Coast Mountain range, Ukiah is a center for pear orchards and for many of Mendocino County’s best wineries. Lake Mendocino is nearby.
Producers of some of the most acclaimed wines in Mendocino, Navarro Vineyards are known for their Gewürztraminers and Chardonnays. Founders Deborah Cahn and Ted Bennett chose their vineyard site in 1974 for its appropriate combination of climate and soils. Navarro specializes in aromatic varietals; tours include education on Navarro’s babydoll sheep grazing, chicken tractor, and other sustainable agriculture projects.
Established at Hopland in 1983 as California’s first brewpub, the Mendocino Brewing Company was a pioneer in the USA’s craft-beer renaissance. Now based in Ukiah, it produces flavor-rich beers named for local birds. Informative tours of the brewery are offered by appointment. Its Ale House is the perfect place to sample more than 20 different brews.
Founded in 1872, Boonville evolved as an agricultural center surrounded by orchards and ranches, many of which have been replaced by vineyards. The Anderson Valley Historical Museum, housed in an old one-room schoolhouse, displays vintage farm equipment and memorabilia. The Anderson Valley Brewing Company offers tours of its microbrewery and sponsors the Boonville Beer Fest.
California’s largest fresh-water lake formed 1.5 million years ago when tectonic movements sealed a valley that previously flowed into the Russian River. Measuring 19 miles (31 km) by 8 miles (13 km), the lake is considered the USA’s foremost for bass-fishing. Clear Lake State Park, on the southwest shore, is popular for boating, fishing, water-skiing, and birding.
Just 18 miles (28 km) northwest of Boonville, this majestic park protects two virgin groves of coast redwoods. These ancient groves are laced by self-guided trails. The Hermit Hut Trail leads to a crude hut made of redwood branches and once occupied by Hendy, a Russian-born hermit. The park has educational campfire programs, plus Junior Ranger nature walks for children.
Morning
Start your drive in Cloverdale, in the Alexander Valley, taking time to admire its Gothic Victorian homes before heading up Hwy. 128. The road soon begins to snake up and over the Yorkville Highlands to descend into the Navarro River valley. Approaching Boonville, turn right onto Boonville-Ukiah Rd. to visit the Anderson Valley Brewing Company, which has tours and a tasting room. Stop in Boonville to shop for picnic items at Farmhouse Mercantile. Also call at the Anderson Valley Historical Museum for a look at its eclectic exhibits tracing the history of the valley. Continue north on Hwy. 128 to Philo-Greenwood Rd. Turn left and follow the signs for Hendy Woods State Park, to hike the trails and enjoy a picnic lunch beneath the redwoods.
Afternoon
Call ahead to arrange a visit to Philo Apple Farm, at the junction of Philo-Greenwood Rd and Henry Woods State Park Rd. Returning to Hwy. 128, continue north for five minutes to Navarro Vineyards, on the right: a tour here is worthwhile. Another 2 miles (3 km) brings you to Roederer Estate Winery: sample its premium sparkling wines. Further along, passing through the hamlet of Navarro, you enter an 11-mile (18-km) redwood tunnel alongside the Navarro River. It is a magnificent drive that leads to the mouth of the river and the Pacific Ocean.
< Around California Wine Country
This small, welcoming, family-operated winery’s quaint tasting room is a converted 19th-century stable.
Fondly called “Pearville,” Kelseyville has flowering pear trees lining its Main St, with historic street lamps. It hosts a Pear Festival in September.
The winery owner is an expert on organic grape growing and wine making, and has authored two books on green practices in the wine industry.
Free live music nightly, the brewery’s seven made-on-site beers, and great pub food using all-organic ingredients, are all good reasons to visit here.
Snaking a route through the Anderson and Navarro River Valleys, this scenic highway leads to pristine redwood forests and, eventually, the Mendocino coast. Most sites of interest in the two valleys lie along this route.
Award-winning, estate-bottled wines can be sampled in the octagonal tasting room made from the lumber of a single redwood tree.
Antiques adorn the stone-and-timber tasting room here, with a gallery of celebrity photos.
This reserve protects the massive Sierra Redwood (Sequoia giganteum), and the taller coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens).
The drive through the old-growth redwood groves in this small mountainside park in the Garcia River Valley is inspirational.
Tastings are by appointment in this distillery, which produces brandies and grappa using an antique still and fine grapes.
< Around California Wine Country
This small café is known for its exotic meat burgers and delicious fruit pies.
Burgers, pizzas, pastas, and sandwiches are made here using garden-fresh ingredients.
A Mexican restaurant with all the usual staples, such as burritos and carnitas, plus seafood specials.
Pastries, salads, sandwiches, and vegan dishes are on offer here.
Their prix fixe menu includes pan-seared flat-iron steak with basque chili cream and creamy polenta.
Set amid its own apple orchards, this farm also sells cider and chutneys and doubles as a cooking school.
Specializing in Italian dishes, The Crushed Grape offers wood-fired oven pizzas, and paninis.
The menu here focuses on hyper-local dishes that pair Mendocino ingredients with local wines.
Run by a Japanese-born couple, this restaurant’s full Japanese menu includes sushi.
Try the chef’s special: fire-roasted eggplant in spices and cream.