Panaji & Central Goa
Panaji & Central Goa Highlights
Panaji
West of Panaji
Panaji to Old Goa
Old Goa
Divar Island
Goa Velha
Pilar
Ponda
Around Ponda
Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary
Molem & Around
Further Afield
Hampi
Around Hampi
Hospet (Hosapete)
Why Go?
Some travellers see Goa as one big beach resort, but the central region – practically beach-free – is the state’s historic and cultural heart and soul. Wedged between Goa’s two biggest rivers, the Mandovi and the Zuari, this region is home to the state capital, Panaji, the glorious churches of Old Goa, inland islands, bird sanctuaries and the wilds of the Western Ghats.
No visit to Goa is complete without a day or two spent cruising on the Mandovi River and exploring the old Latin Quarter in laid-back Panaji. Less than 10km away, Old Goa is the state’s major cultural attraction, where the grand 17th-century churches and cathedrals are humbling in their scale and beauty.
Further explorations will take you to temples and spice plantations around Ponda, to two of Goa’s most beautiful wildlife sanctuaries, to elephant camps and to India’s second-highest waterfall. You could spend a week here without making it to a single beach. Don’t miss it.
When to Go
ANov–Mar High season is the best time to visit Central Goa’s bird sanctuaries and national parks.
AChristmas, Easter & Carnival Goa’s festivals are at their best around Panaji.
AAug–Oct Monsoon season offers a different and very green side of Central Goa.
Best Places to Stay
Panaji & Central Goa Highlights
1 Explore the Latin Quarter, do some shopping and eat well in Panaji, India’s most laid-back state capital
2 Stand in silence in the extraordinary churches and cathedrals of Old Goa, once larger than Lisbon
3 Get the binoculars out for a birdwatching bonanza at Backwoods Camp
4 Trek out to Dudhsagar Falls, India’s second highest waterfall
5 Visit an aromatic organic spice farm near Ponda, then stock up on fragrant masalas
6 Float in a dugout canoe through the mangrove swamps of Choroa’s Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary
7 Take a full-day or sunset cruise on the Mandovi River, or try your luck on one of Panaji’s floating casinos
8 Ride, feed or bathe elephants at the Jungle Book camp in Colem
9 Hop on a scooter and ferry out to Divar Island, a little land that time forgot
a See the last of the Kadambas at the Shri Mahadeva Temple at Tambdi Surla
Panaji
pop 115,000
One of India’s smallest and most relaxed state capitals, Panaji (also still widely known by its former Portuguese name Panjim) crowds around the peninsula overlooking the broad Mandovi River, where cruise boats and floating casinos ply the waters, casting neon reflections in the night.
A glorious whitewashed church lords over the animated city centre, a broad leafy boulevard skirts around the river, and grand colonial buildings rub shoulders with arty boutiques, old-school bookshops, state-of-the-art malls and backstreet bars.
But it’s the tangle of narrow streets in the old Latin Quarter that really steal the show. Nowhere is the Portuguese influence felt more strongly than here, where the late afternoon sun lights up yellow houses with purple doors, and around each corner you’ll find restored ochre-coloured mansions with terracotta-tiled roofs, wrought iron balconies and arched oyster-shell windows.
Panjim is a place for walking, enjoying the peace of an afternoon siesta, eating well and meeting real Goans. It’s also a place to catch a movie, a cultural show or to take the kids to the planetarium.
A day or two in Panaji really is an essential part of the Goan experience.
History
The land on which Panaji stands today was once little more than a handful of fishing settlements, known to the 12th-century ruling Kadambas as Pahajani, ‘the land that does not flood.’
In the late 15th century Goa came under the control of the Muslim sultan Yusuf Adil Shah, who built five hilltop forts and his own fortified summer palace here, protected by 55 cannons and conceived to guard the mouth of the Mandovi River against attackers.
When the Portuguese nobleman Afonso de Albuquerque arrived in Goa in 1510, he quickly set about conquering the palace and forts, and by the end of the year it was his. Leaving it almost untouched, however, the conquerors’ efforts were instead now concentrated on aggrandising their new capital, Ela (now Old Goa), further east up the river.
For the next 300 years Panaji remained little more than a small and scruffy seafaring village, only notable for its church, where Portuguese sailors stopped off to give thanks for having survived the perilous voyage to India. However, as conditions in Old Goa became increasingly desperate, the land began to support increasing numbers of refugees from the capital, until finally, in 1759, the viceroy moved to Panjim, where he took the old Idalcao’s Palace as his own residence, today the Secretariat.
By the early 19th century the city was taking shape. In 1834 Panjim became known as Nova Goa, and in 1843 it was finally recognised by the Portuguese government as Goa’s state capital. A spate of building took place; among the public buildings erected were the army barracks (now the police headquarters and government offices). In essence, though, Goa was fast becoming a forgotten corner of the Portuguese empire, and lack of money and political interest meant that building work was low key in comparison to the glory days of Old Goa.
Strolling the streets of central Panaji today, you’ll find that little has really changed since then. Modern building and development, for the most part, remains reasonably well planned, and the streets are as wide and leafy as they were under Portuguese dominion. Following the final exit of the Portuguese in 1961, the town’s name was officially changed to the Maratha title, Panaji, though today most locals still refer to it as Panjim, as it was christened some 500 years ago on Albuquerque’s arrival.
Panaji (Panjim)
1Top Sights
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
7Shopping
Information
Transport
1Sights
oChurch of Our Lady of the Immaculate ConceptionCHURCH
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; cnr Emilio Gracia & Jose Falcao Rds; 
h10am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-12.30pm & 3.30-5pm Sun, English Mass 8am)
Panaji’s spiritual, as well as geographical, centre is this elevated, pearly white church, built in 1619 over an older, smaller 1540 chapel and stacked like a fancy white wedding cake. When Panaji was little more than a sleepy fishing village, this church was the first port of call for sailors from Lisbon, who would give thanks for a safe crossing, before continuing to Ela (Old Goa) further east up the river. The church is beautifully illuminated at night.
By the 1850s the land in front of the church was being reclaimed and the distinctive crisscrossing staircases were added in the late 19th century. Today the entrance to its gloriously technicolour interior is along the left-hand side wall. A tangle of ropes leads up to the enormous shiny church bell in the belfry, saved from the ruins of the Augustinian monastery at Old Goa and installed here in 1871. The church is the focus for celebrations during the Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, on 8 December.
Secretariat BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg)
The oldest colonial-era building in Goa is the stolid Secretariat, standing on the site of the grand summer palace of Goa’s 15th-century sultan Yusuf Adil Shah, which was originally fortified and surrounded by a saltwater moat.
After falling to the Portuguese in 1510, the palace was further reinforced and used as a customs post, also serving as temporary accommodation for incoming and outgoing Portuguese viceroys. It later housed Goa’s State Assembly and is today home to government offices.
Municipal GardensPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Panaji’s central square is the leafy Municipal Gardens, also called Church Square (Largo da Igreja). The Ashokan Pillar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) at the gardens’ centre was once topped by a bust of Vasco da Gama, the first Portuguese voyager to set foot in Goa in 1498, but he was replaced, upon independence in 1961, by the seal of present-day India: four lions sitting back to back, atop an abacus, with the inscription, ‘Truth Alone Triumphs’.
Jama MasjidMOSQUE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Dr Dada Vaidya Rd)
Tiny Jama Masjid, barely 100m south of the Municipal Gardens and built about two centuries ago, is easy to miss. The exterior of the mosque is plain, its entrance blending in with the small shops on either side, but the interior is extremely ornate in white-marble Islamic style.
Azad MaidanPARK
(Freedom Park; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
To the west of the Municipal Gardens, the grassy Azad Maidan won’t win any prizes at a flower show. Its centrepiece is a small pavilion (the Corinthian pillars of which were reclaimed from the rubble in Old Goa), which houses a modern sculpture dedicated to freedom fighter and ‘Father of Goan Nationalism’ Dr Tristao de Braganza Cunha (1891–1958).
Menezes Braganza InstituteHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Malaca Rd)
The yellow-and-white Menezes Braganza Institute occupies part of the old buildings that were once the Portuguese army headquarters. It’s worth poking your head in, at the building’s northeast entrance, to examine the grand and dramatic azulejos (traditional blue-and-white painted ceramic tiles) adorning the wall, which depict scenes from Os Lusíadas, a famously epic Portuguese poem by Luís Vaz de Camões that tells the tale of Portugal’s 15th- and 16th-century voyages of discovery. The bust in the centre of the foyer is the man himself.
Goa State MuseumMUSEUM
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; 
%0832-2438006; www.goamusem.gov.in; EDC Complex, Patto; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
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This spacious museum east of town houses an eclectic, if not extensive, collection of items tracing aspects of Goan history. As well as some beautiful Hindu and Jain sculptures and bronzes, there are nice examples of Portuguese-era furniture, coins, an intricately carved chariot and a pair of quirky antique rotary lottery machines.
The most interesting exhibit is in the furniture room: an elaborately carved table and high-backed chairs used by the notoriously brutal Portuguese Inquisition in Goa during its reign of terror. The table’s legs feature carved lions and an eagle on one side and four human figures on the other.
Goa State Central LibraryLIBRARY
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; Sanskruti Bhavan, Patto; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5.45pm Sat & Sun)F
Panaji’s ultra-modern new state library, near the state museum, has six floors of reading material, a bookshop and gallery. The 2nd floor features a children’s book section and internet browsing (free, but technically only for academic research). The 4th floor has Goan history books and the 6th floor has a large collection of Portuguese books.
Maruti TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Mala)
Dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, this large orange temple built up the Altinho hillside is resplendently lit at night, and affords pleasant views over the city’s Old Quarter from its verandah by day. It forms the epicentre of a roughly 10-day festival celebrated in February, when enormous and colourful statues of Hanuman are placed in the street, and festive street stalls are set up throughout the surrounding Hindu quarter of Mala.
Mahalaxmi TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; off Dada Vaidya Rd)
This modern, technicolour temple is not particularly imposing, but it’s worth a look inside as it was the first Hindu shrine established in the city during Portuguese rule. It amply demonstrates that among Panaji’s ubiquitous whitewashed churches there is a large and thriving Hindu community. The temple was built in 1818 and is devoted to the goddess Mahalaxmi, goddess of wealth and beauty and the Hindu deity of Panaji.
Altinho HillAREA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
On the hillside above Panaji is the well-to-do residential district of Altinho. Apart from good views over the city and river, the main attraction here is the Bishop’s Palace, an imposing building completed in 1893.
The archbishop of Goa came to reside in Panaji early in the 20th century, laying claim to the palatial residence at Cabo Raj Bhavan. But it was not to be: when the Portuguese governor-general realised that it was the best property in Goa, the archbishop was forced to change his plans and settle instead for this palace. The pope stayed at the Bishop’s Palace during his visit to Goa in 1999. These days it’s used for government offices.
Campal GardensPARK
( GOOGLE MAP )
The road to Miramar from Panaji runs through the Campal district. Just before you reach the Kala Academy are the strollable riverside Campal Gardens, also known as the Children’s Park. The gardens offer a nice view over to Reis Magos Fort and the boats that cruise along the Mandovi River each evening.
Gitanjali GalleryART GALLERY
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; %0832-2423331; www.gallerygitanjali.com; 31st Jan Rd; h9am-7pm)F
Worth a look while walking around the district of Fontainhas, this bright gallery displays works by local and international artists. It also functions as an art studio, cafe and hosts special exhibitions and workshops throughout the year.
Public ObservatoryOBSERVATORY
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; 7th fl, Junta House, Swami Vivekanand Rd; h7-9pm mid-Nov–May)F
If you’re interested in checking out the clear winter night skies over Goa, the local branch of the Association of Friends of Astronomy has a public observatory on the terrace of the Junta building. The local enthusiasts are only too happy to welcome visitors and explain what you’re looking at. The view over Panaji by night is lovely too, especially around dusk.
ABBé FARIA
Statue of Abbé FariaMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP )
Beside Panaji’s Secretariat Building, look out for the sublime, starkly black statue of a caped man, with arms, hands and fingers outstretched, towering over an apparently frightened woman.
This is the statue of Abbé Faria, considered the ‘father of modern hypnotism,’ a contemporary of Franz Mesmer (from where the term mesmerise derives) and a native of Goa. Born the son of a monk and a nun in a Candolim mansion in 1756, Abbé Faria is one of history’s fabulously enigmatic figures, having hovered handsomely on the sidelines of the greatest events of the 18th century and flirted with its main players (the Portuguese royal family, Robespierre, Marie Antoinette and Napoleon among them), somehow ingratiating himself with every successive regime while remaining an elusive outsider, caught in a world of black magic and esoteric pursuits.
He was considered to be at the forefront of modern hypnotism for his explanations, and belief in, the power of suggestion – uncharted territory at the time.
2Activities
The nearest beach for swimming is at Miramar, about 4km southwest of the city, but it’s really more of a people-watching place than a bathing beach. A better bet is the excellent pool at the nearby Goa Marriott Resort, which nonguests can use for ₹500. In central Panaji, you can swim in the small but nice pool (₹280) at the hilltop Crown Goa.
DON'T MISS
LATIN QUARTER: FONTAINHAS & SAO TOMé
When the capital moved from plague-ridden Old Goa around 1843, Panjim was centred around its church square and the banks of the Mandovi River. But the settlement soon began to spread out and today the most atmospheric, Portuguese-flavoured districts of Panaji are east of the centre, squeezed between the hillside of Altinho and the banks of Ourem Creek. Fontainhas, Sao Tomé and, further south, Mala – collectively known as the Latin Quarter or Old Quarter – are unquestionably the most seductive and intriguing parts of the city, perfect for a late afternoon stroll.
Fontainhas, said to take its name from local springs, is the larger of the districts, comprising pastel-shaded houses towards Altinho Hill. The land here was originally reclaimed in the late 18th century by a returning self-made Goan, known as ‘the Mosmikar,’ so-called for the riches he had amassed during a stay in Mozambique.
Fontainhas’ main thoroughfare is 31st January Rd and it’s between here, Ourem Rd, Rue de Natal and further south to Altinho that you’ll find many of the colourful mansions, Portuguese-era homes and bougainvillea blooms that make this district so photogenic.
Fontainhas is notable for being home to the pretty Chapel of St Sebastian (
MAP
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; St Sebastian Rd; hmass 6.45am daily), built in 1818. This small whitewashed church at the end of a lovely lane contains one of only a few relics remaining as testament to the Goan Inquisition: a striking crucifix, which originally stood in the Palace of the Inquisition in Old Goa. Christ’s unusual open eyes are said to have been conceived especially to strike fear into the hearts of ‘heretical’ suspects brought before the Inquisitors, and awaiting their usually grisly fate. In mid-November a street fair sets up outside the chapel to celebrate the Feast of Our Lady of Livrament.
To the north of Fontainhas, the tiny area around the main post office is known as Sao Tomé. The post office was once the tobacco-trading house for Panaji, and the building to the right of it was the state mint. The square that these buildings face once housed the town pillory, where justice turned into spectacle when executions took place. It was here that several conspirators involved in the Pinto Revolt were put to death for plotting to overthrow Portuguese rule in 1787.
Heritage walking tours (%9823025748; per person ₹500, per person for five or more ₹250) of Fontainhas are run by the Panjim Inn if there’s sufficient interest.
TTours
Organised boat cruises are a popular way to see the Mandovi River and get a different perspective on the city. As well as the Goa Tourism cruises there are similar privately run cruises.
Mandovi River CruisesCRUISE
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; sunset cruise ₹200, dinner cruise ₹650, backwater cruise ₹900; hsunset cruise 6pm, sundown cruise 7.15pm, dinner cruise 8.45pm Wed & Sat, backwater cruise 9.30am-4pm Tue & Fri)
Goa Tourism operates a range of entertaining hour-long cruises along the Mandovi River aboard the Santa Monica or Shantadurga. All include a live band and usually performances of Goan folk songs and dances. There are also twice-weekly, two-hour dinner cruises and a twice-weekly, all-day backwater cruise, which takes you down the Mandovi to Old Goa, stopping for lunch at a spice plantation and then heading back past Divar and Chorao Islands. All cruises depart from the Santa Monica Jetty next to the Mandovi Bridge, where you can purchase tickets.
Swastik CruisesCRUISE
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; adult/child ₹300/free; h6pm, 6.30pm, 7pm & 7.30pm)
Private one-hour cruises depart from the main Santa Monica Jetty but you can buy tickets in advance during the day from the ticket counter next to the Betim Ferry. Cruises feature music and cultural shows. Dolphin-spotting cruises are also available.
LUíS VAZ DE CAMõES
Luís Vaz de Camões (1524–80), regarded as Portugal’s greatest poet, was banished to Goa in 1553 at the age of 29, after being accused of fighting with, and wounding, a magistrate in Lisbon. He was obviously no soft touch, for he enlisted in the army and fought with some distinction before attracting further official disapproval for publicly criticising Goa’s Portuguese administration.
His reward this time was to be exiled to the Moluccas, and he returned to Goa only in 1562 to write his most famous work, Os Lusíadas, an epic poem glorifying the adventures of Vasco da Gama, which, classical in style and imperialist in sentiment, has since become an icon of Portuguese nationalism.
A statue of Camões, erected in 1960, stood at the centre of Old Goa until 1983, when many Goans decided that it was an unacceptable relic of colonialism. An attempt by radicals to blow it up met with failure, but the authorities took the hint and removed the statue. It now stands, along with Afonso de Albuquerque and various other disgraced Portuguese colonials, in the Archaeological Museum in Old Goa.
4Sleeping
Panaji has its fair share of accommodation for all budgets but it’s not saturated like the beach resorts. In the middle range are some of Goa’s better boutique heritage hotels and guesthouses, mostly in the Fontainhas area, and this is reason enough to stay in Panaji.
If you’re on a real budget there are a bunch of cheap guesthouses in the Old Quarter area with rooms from ₹600 but few are welcoming, let alone good value. Many hotels still enforce an uncharitable 9am checkout.
oOld Quarter HostelHOSTEL
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; %0832-6517606; www.thehostelcrowd.com; 31st Jan Rd, Fontainhas; dm ₹450, d with AC from ₹2000; 
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Backpackers rejoice! This cool new hostel in an old Portuguese house in historic Fontainhas offers slick four-bed dorms with lockers and two comfortable doubles upstairs, along with a cafe, arty murals, good wi-fi and bikes for hire. Noon checkout.
Pousada Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE
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; %9850998213, 0832-2422618; sabrinateles@yahoo.com; Luis de Menezes Rd; s/d from ₹800/1050, d with AC ₹1575; aW)
The five rooms in this bright-yellow place are simple but clean and come with comfy spring-mattress beds and TV. Owner Sabrina is friendly and no-nonsense, and it’s one of Panaji’s better budget guesthouses.
oPanjim InnHERITAGE HOTEL
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; %0832-2226523, 9823025748; www.panjiminn.com; 31st Jan Rd; s ₹3400-6000, d ₹3900-6500, ste ₹5950; aW)
One of the original heritage hotels in Fontainhas, the Panjim Inn has been a long-standing favourite for its character and charm, friendly owners and helpful staff. This beautiful 19th-century mansion has 12 charismatic rooms in the original house, along with 12 newer rooms with modern touches, but all have four-poster beds, colonial-era furniture and artworks. Buffet breakfast is included, and the Verandah restaurant serves excellent Goan food.
Panjim PousadaGUESTHOUSE
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; %0832-2226523; www.panjiminn.com; 31st Jan Rd; s ₹3400-4400, d ₹3900-4900; aW)
In an old Hindu mansion, the nine divine, colonial fantasy rooms at Panjim Pousada are set off by a stunning central courtyard, with antique furnishings and lovely art on the walls. Various doorways and spiral staircases lead to the rooms; those on the upper level are the best.
Afonso GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
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; %9764300165, 0832-2222359; www.afonsoguesthouse.com; St Sebastian Rd; d ₹1800-3000; aW)
Run by the friendly Jeanette, this pretty Portuguese townhouse offers spacious, well-kept rooms with timber ceilings. The little rooftop terrace makes for sunny breakfasting (extra) with Fontainhas views. Add ₹200 for air-con. It’s a simple, serene stay in the heart of the most atmospheric part of town. Checkout is 9am and bookings are accepted online but not by phone.
oCasa NovaGUESTHOUSE
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; %9423889181; www.goaholidayaccommodation.com; Gomes Pereira Rd; ste ₹4300; aW)
In a gorgeous Portuguese-style house (c 1831) in Fontainhas, Casa Nova comprises just one stylish, exceptionally comfy double-bed apartment, accessed via a little alley and complete with arched windows, wood-beam ceilings, and mod-cons like a kitchenette and wi-fi.
Mayfair HotelHOTEL
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; %0832-2223317; manishafernz@yahoo.com; Dr Dada Vaidya Rd; s/d from ₹1105/1330, d with AC ₹1690; aW)
The oyster-shell windows and mosaic tiling in the lobby of this popular corner hotel are promising but the rooms are not quite as bright. Ask to see a few as there are new and old wings with rooms of varying quality, some overlooking a potentially nice back garden. Friendly family owners have been sheltering travellers for many years. Noon checkout.
Casa ParadisoHOTEL
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; %0832-3290180; www.casaparadisogoa.com; Jose Falcao Rd; d/tr with AC ₹1911/2200; a)
A neat and welcoming little stay in the heart of the city. Up a small flight of stairs, the simple but clean rooms come with TV, hot water and noon checkout.
Abrigo de BotelhoBOUTIQUE HOTEL
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; %9527778884; www.hadbgoa.com; Rue de Natal, Fontainhas; r incl breakfast ₹3000-5000; aW)
At the end of a quiet lane in the Old Quarter, the six rooms in this lovely baby-blue heritage house are spacious, neatly furnished and enhanced with antiques, but still offer cable TV, AC and wi-fi.
Hotel SonaHOTEL
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; %0832-2222226; www.hotelsonagoa.com; Ourem Rd; d ₹1900-2200; aW)
With a nice location opposite Ourem Creek, Sona is a sound but slightly boring choice in a good area. Not all of the 30 clinical-but-clean air-con rooms of this four-storey building face the river, so check out a few.
Hotel Ria ResidencyHOTEL
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; %0832-2220002; www.riahotels.com; Ourem Rd, Fontainhas; d ₹1500-1800; a)
Contrasting starkly with its heritage neighbours, this characterless place doesn’t look very appealing but at this price it’s not bad value for the location and reasonably comfortable air-con rooms.
Panjim PeoplesHOTEL
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; %0832-2226523, 0832-2435628; www.panjiminn.com; 31st Jan Rd; d ₹9000; aW)
The Panjim Peoples is an atmospheric heritage hotel with just four enormous upstairs rooms. There are mosaic-covered bathrooms, deep bath tubs, antique furnishings and nautical ship lights. Downstairs is the Gitanjali Gallery & Cafe.
oLa MaisonBOUTIQUE HOTEL
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; %0832-2235555; www.lamaisongoa.com; 31st Jan Rd; r ₹4400-6600; aW)
The newest of the upcoming boutique heritage hotels in Fontainhas, La Maison is historic on the outside but thoroughly modern and swanky within. The eight rooms are deceptively simple and homely but five-star comfortable with soft beds, cloud-like pillows, writing desks and flat-screen TVs. Breakfast is included and attached is the contemporary Fogo Restaurant.
Crown GoaHOTEL
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; %0832-240 0000; www.thecrowngoa.com; Bairo Alto Dos Pilotos, Jose Falcao Rd; d incl breakfast ₹9000-10,650, ste from ₹11,200; a
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Perched on a small hill above the Sao Tomé district, with fine views over the Mandovi, this spa-hotel-casino is a good option for a little bit of luxury in the midst of the city. A lift takes you up to a lovely terrace with swimming pool (nonguests ₹280) and bar. Spacious rooms are airy and tastefully done in mustards and whites, some with balconies and views.
Along with the casino (no live gaming), there’s a day spa and well-equipped gym.
Hotel FidalgoHOTEL
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; %0832-2226291-99; www.hotelfidalgo-goa.com; 18th Jun Rd; d/ste ₹7000/14,000; ais)
The city centre’s smartest hotel is the business-style, slightly stuffy and old-fashioned Fidalgo, with snappy service and a good range of cuisines courtesy of its ‘food enclave,’ including a good vegetarian Indian restaurant, Legacy of Bombay. Cheaper deals online.
Hotel MandoviHOTEL
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; %0832-2426270; www.hotelmandovigoa.com; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; standard s/d ₹4500/5060, executive s/d ₹5625/6200, ste ₹12,400; aW)
A Panaji institution for more than 50 years, the Mandovi offers comfortable, though dated, rooms, many looking out onto the wide Mandovi River. For ambience, style and facilities, it’s outdone by other top-end hotels in town. There are a couple of good restaurants.
PANAJI’S CRAZY CARNIVAL
Panaji’s annual carnival has been hitting the city centre for three chaotic days, sometime in late February or early March, since the 18th century, when it was introduced by the Catholic Portuguese as one last opportunity for excess before the strictures of Lent.
However, the origins of Carnival are far older, dating back as far as the Bacchanalias of ancient Rome, and later enlivened by African slaves in the Portuguese colonies. Once introduced into Goa, of course, an entirely local twist was added to the fun-filled goings on, with the inclusion of tiatrs, the satirical folk plays which are still performed throughout Carnival today.
Carnival begins – as it has done for centuries – with the arrival in Panaji of a character called King Momo on Sabato Gordo (Fat Saturday), and his instruction to the people of the city to, in essence, ‘don’t worry, be happy.’ Dancing, drinking, processions of floats through the streets, cross-dressing and assaltos (amiable battles) – with sticky mixtures of flour, coloured tikka powder and water – ensue.
Though various criticisms of Carnival have emerged over the years – ranging from its post-Independence shunning due to its ‘colonialism,’ to its recent commercialisation and excuse for the over-consumption of alcohol – Panaji’s three days of mayhem are still celebrated by many thousands each year, seeing hotels booked solid, streets filled with revellers, and bars doing a brisk trade. Don’t come dressed in your best, and prepare to be soaked to the skin.
5Eating
There’s not a beach shack in sight, but you’ll never go hungry in Panaji, where food is enjoyed fully and frequently and new boutiquey restaurants are popping up each year. A stroll down 18th June or 31st January Rds will turn up a number of cheap but tasty canteen-style options, as will a quick circuit of the Municipal Gardens. Lots of these are pure veg, and offer up good thalis, bhaji-pau (bread roll dipped in curry) breakfasts and South Indian snacks.
The Latin Quarter has a developing foodie scene, where you can dine on traditional Goan specialities or Western comfort food.
oViva PanjimGOAN
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; %0832-2422405; 31st Jan Rd; mains ₹100-170; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 7-11pm Sun)
Well known to tourists, this little side-street eatery, in an old Portuguese house and with a few tables out on the laneway, still delivers tasty Goan classics at reasonable prices. There’s a whole page devoted to pork dishes, along with tasty xacuti and cafreal-style dishes, seafood such as kingfish vindaloo and crab xec xec, and desserts such as bebinca (richly layered Goan dessert made from egg yolk and coconut).
Fair drink prices and good service too.
Vihar RestaurantINDIAN, VEGETARIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; MG Rd; mains ₹40-130, veg thali from ₹90; h11am-11pm)
A vast menu of ‘pure veg’ food, great big thalis, South Indian dosas and a plethora of fresh juices make this clean, simple canteen a popular place for locals and visitors. One of the few places in this area that’s still busy late into the evening.
Cafe BhonsleCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Ormuz Rd; veg thali ₹80, mains ₹100-170; h9am-10pm)
Well known for its delicious lunchtime thalis and bhaj puri, Cafe Bhosle has expanded with an upstairs section into a multicuisine place serving fish thalis and other seafood dishes. Thalis are served between around noon and 2.30pm.
AnandashramINDIAN, GOAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 31st Jan Rd; thalis ₹80-130, seafood ₹200-350; hnoon-3.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat)
This little place is renowned locally for seafood, serving up simple but tasty fish curries, as well as veg and nonveg thalis for lunch and dinner.
Gujarat Sweet MartSWEETS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gujarat Lodge, 18 Jun Rd; drinks ₹20-50)
If you have a sweet tooth, this hole-in-the-wall sweets counter is the place to indulge it, with a panoply of Indian confectioneries. There’s also a range of cheap snacks and some of the best sweet lassis and milkshakes in town.
George Bar & RestaurantGOAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Municipal Gardens; mains ₹90-200; h9.30am-10.30pm)
There’s something very rustic and local about this cramped restaurant in the shadow of Panaji’s main church. Seafood and Goan classics are done well at prices that attract a healthy mix of families and drunks. The upstairs section has air-con.
oCafe BodegaCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2421315; Altinho; mains ₹120-320; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; W)
It’s well worth a trip up to Altinho Hill for this serene cafe-gallery in a lavender-and-white Portuguese-style mansion in the grounds of Sunaparanta Centre for the Arts. Enjoy good coffee, juices and fresh-baked cakes around the inner courtyard or lunch on super pizzas and sandwiches.
oHotel VeniteGOAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 31st Jan Rd; mains ₹210-260; h9am-10.30pm)
With its cute rickety balcony tables overhanging the cobbled street, Venite has long been among the most atmospheric of Panaji’s old-school Goan restaurants. The menu is traditional, with spicy sausages, fish curry rice, pepper steak and bebinca featuring, but Venite is popular with tourists and prices are consequently rather inflated. It’s not to be missed though.
Drop in for a cold beer or shot of feni (Goan spirit) before deciding on lunch or dinner.
VerandahGOAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2226523; 31st Jan Rd; mains ₹180-360; h11am-11pm)
The breezy 1st-floor restaurant at Panjim Inn is indeed on the balcony, with just a handful of finely carved tables and fine Fontainhas street views. Goan cuisine is the speciality, but there’s also a range of Indian and continental dishes and local wines.
Route 66DINER, STEAKHOUSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %9623922796; Ourem Rd; mains ₹160-500; hnoon-11.30pm)
Styled on an American diner, this new 1st-floor place opposite Old Patto Bridge has hot dogs, burgers, cheese chilli fries, hickory barbecue ribs and New York–style pizzas. The steaks might blow your budget, but for comfort fast food it’s hard to beat. On-site bakery and full bar.
Sher-E-PunjabNORTH INDIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-227204; http://sher-e-punjab.com; 18th Jun Rd; mains ₹110-300; h10.30am-11.30pm)
Sheer-E-Punjab is widely regarded as one of the best North Indian places in Panaji, catering to well-dressed locals and business visitors with its generous, carefully spiced Punjabi dishes, including tandoori classics and rich butter chicken. The pleasant garden terrace out back is refreshing. There’s another branch at Hotel Aroma.
oBlack Sheep BistroEUROPEAN, TAPAS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2222901; www.blacksheepbistro.in; Swami Vivekanand Rd; tapas ₹180-225, mains ₹320-450)
One of the new breed of Panaji boutique restaurants, Black Sheep’s impressive pale-yellow facade gives way to a sexy dark-wood bar and loungy dining room. The tapas dishes are light, fresh and expertly prepared in keeping with their farm-to-table philosophy. Salads, pasta, local seafood and dishes like lamb osso bucco also grace the menu, while an internationally trained sommelier matches food to wine.
The Black Sheep is serious about food and it shows.
Baba’s Wood CafeITALIAN
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-3256213; 49 Mala, Fontainhas; pizza & pasta ₹300-500; hnoon-3pm & 7-11.30pm)
Sharing an interesting premises with a wood-craft gallery, this upmarket Italian restaurant in a quiet street near the Maruti Temple has a lovely little alfresco dining area and a menu featuring more than 20 different pasta dishes from ravioli to carbonara. Pizzas are wood-fired and pasta homemade, while desserts include tiramisu and chocolate fondue. Good for a splurge.
Upper HouseGOAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2426475; www.theupperhousegoa.com; Cunha-Rivara Rd; mains ₹220-440; h11am-10pm; a)
Climbing the stairs to the Upper House is like stepping into a cool European restaurant, with a modern but elegant dining space overlooking the Municipal Gardens, a chic neon-lit cocktail bar and a more formal restaurant at the back. The food is very much Goan though, with regional specialities such as crab xec xec, fish curry rice and pork vindaloo prepared to a high standard at relatively high prices.
Wine is available from ₹600.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Panaji’s local drinking scene is in the town’s tiny, tucked-away bars, mostly equipped with rudimentary plastic tables, a fridge, a few stools and an almost-exclusively male clientele. They’re good places to mingle with the locals, and generally open up towards lunchtime, closing for a siesta mid-afternoon, and cranking up again come sundown. More upscale bars can be found in high-end hotels.
Cafe MojoBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.cafemojo.in; Menezes Braganza Rd; h10am-4am Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri-Sun)
The decor is cosy English pub, the clientele young and up for a party, and the hook is the e-beer system. Each table has it’s own beer tap and LCD screen: you buy a card (₹1000), swipe it at your table and start pouring – it automatically deducts what you drink (you can also use the card for spirits, cocktails or food). Wednesday night is ladies night, Thursday karaoke and the weekends go till late.
Riverfront & Down the RoadBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr MG & Ourem Rds; h11am-1am)
This restaurant’s balcony overlooking the creek and Old Patto Bridge makes for a cosy beer or cocktail spot with carved barrels for furniture. The ground-floor bar (from 6pm) is the only real nightspot on the Old Quarter side of town, with occasional live music.
Top Gear PubBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; h11am-3pm & 6.30pm-midnight)
One of Panaji’s hole-in-the-wall bars, this tiny, retro place is hidden behind unassuming doors. There’s no food – just cold beer and feni by the shot.
QuarterdeckGARDEN BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; h11am-11pm)
The riverside location on the banks of the Mandovi is the main redeeming feature of this open-air garden restaurant and bar near the Betim Ferry dock. Drinks (and food) are overpriced (mains ₹150 to ₹350), but it’s a nice place to enjoy a sundowner and watch the casino boats light up.
PANAJI’S FLOATING CASINOS
Live gaming is illegal in India but back in 2001 the powers that be in Goa decided that if the gambling was offshore, it could circumvent this law. The result is floating casinos moored on the Mandovi River! The casinos remain controversial though, and the Goan government has indicated that the mini cruise ships must relocate out to sea by 2015 or have their licenses revoked.
The casinos vary a little in size and shape, but are quite luxurious and all offer gaming tables with croupiers, including blackjack, poker, roulette, baccarat, Indian flush and slot machines. Buffet meals, free drinks and entertainment are part of the deal in the evenings. Dress codes apply.
Deltin RoyaleCASINO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8698599999; www.deltingroup.com/deltin-royale; Noah’s Ark, RND Jetty, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; weekday/weekend ₹2500/3000, premium weekend ₹4000-4500; h24hr, entertainment 9pm-1am)
Goa’s biggest luxury floating casino, Deltin Royal, has 123 tables, the Vegas Restaurant, a Whisky Bar and a creche. Entry includes gaming chips worth ₹1500/2000 per weekday/weekend and to the full value of your ticket with the premium package. Unlimited food and drinks included.
Deltin JAQKCASINO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %7798740004; www.deltingroup.com/deltin-jaqk; Fisheries Jetty, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; weekday/weekend ₹2000/2500, premium ₹3500; h24hr, entertainment 9pm-1am)
Deltin JAQK has three floors with 50 tables, including a learner’s table. Admission includes gaming chips to the value of ₹1500/2000 weekday/weekend or ₹5000 in chips with the premium ticket. There’s a lavish buffet on the dining floor and floorshow entertainment from 9pm. All tickets include free drinks until midnight (then free drinks only at gaming tables).
Casino PrideCASINO
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-6516666; www.bestgoacasino.com; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; weekday/weekend ₹1500/2000; h24hr, entertainment 9-11pm)
These two casino boats are loosely modelled on Mississippi-style paddle boats. Pride I has 40 gaming tables, kids’ play room and an outdoor party deck. Admission includes ₹1000 coupon for gaming. Unlimited dinner buffet is included, as well as free drinks if you’re playing a table. Pride II is the same deal but smaller.
3Entertainment
Panaji’s most visible form of entertainment is the casino boats anchored out in the Mandovi River, but the city is also home to India’s biggest international film festival and the cultural offerings of the excellent Kala Academy.
Kala AcademyCULTURAL CENTRE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2420452; http://kalaacademygoa.org; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg)
On the west side of the city, in Campal, is Goa’s premier cultural centre, which features a program of dance, theatre, music and art exhibitions throughout the year. Many shows are in Konkani, but there are occasional English-language productions. The website has an up-to-date calendar of events.
INOX CinemaCINEMA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2420900; www.inoxmovies.com; Old GMC Heritage Precinct; tickets ₹180-200)
This comfortable, plush multiplex cinema shows Hollywood and Bollywood blockbusters. Book online to choose your seats in advance.
Cine NacionalCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ormuz Rd; tickets ₹60)
Dismal, dark and dank, but an interesting experience if you’re looking for an unforgettable dose of Bollywood with local flavour. The only filmic quality the toilets possess is their likeness to a certain scene in Trainspotting. Films are shown about four times daily; check the posters outside the box office for current screenings.
7Shopping
Panaji is a decent place for a boutique-style shopping stop, with international brand-name stores dotting Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd (at around a third of European prices), Goa’s largest shopping mall, and a slew of ‘lifestyle stores’ selling high-end faux antiques, well-made textiles and richly illustrated coffee-table tomes. For local grit and grime head to the municipal markets.
Municipal MarketMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Heljogordo Salgado Rd; hfrom 7.30am)
This atmospheric place, where narrow streets have been converted into covered markets, makes for a nice wander, offering fresh produce, clothing stalls and some tiny, enticing eateries. The fish market is a particularly interesting strip of activity.
New Municipal MarketMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; hfrom 7.30am)
This light-filled building comprises mostly stacks of fresh fruit and vegetables downstairs and a few drab electronics shops and tailors upstairs. Less atmosphere than the nearby old Municipal Market.
Caculo MallMALL
(%0832-2222068; 16 Shanta, St Inez; h8am-11pm)
Goa’s biggest mall is four levels of air-conditioned family shopping heaven with brand-name stores, a food court, kids’ toys, Time Zone arcade games and a movie theatre.
Marcou ArtifactsCRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2220204; www.marcouartifacts.com; 31st Jan Rd; h9am-8pm)
This small shop showcases one-off painted tiles, fish figurines and hand-crafted Portuguese and Goan ceramics at reasonable prices. Also has showrooms at the Hotel Delmon and Margao’s market.
Sosa’sCLOTHING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2228063; E245 Ourem Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
A boutique carrying local labels such as Horn Ok Please, Hidden Harmony and Free Falling, Sosa’s is among the best places in Panaji to source upscale Indian fashion.
Book FairBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Hotel Mandovi, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; h9am-9pm)
A small, well-stocked bookshop in the Hotel Mandovi lobby, with plenty of illustrated books on Goa.
Singbal’s Book HouseBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Church Sq; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
On the corner opposite Panaji’s main church, Singbal’s has an excellent selection of international magazines and newspapers, and lots of books on Goa and travel.
Velha Goa GaleriaHANDICRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Ourem Rd; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)
One of several places in town specialising in azulejos (tin-glazed ceramic tiles), this nice place offers tiles, vases and other ceramic objects reproduced in the old style by Portuguese artist, Anabela Cardosa. Pricey but great gifts or souvenirs.
BarefootHANDICRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 31st Jan Rd; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat)
Part of Panaji’s new wave of high-end shops, specialising in design. Though pricey, it has some nice gifts ranging from traditional Christmas paintings on wood to jewellery and beaded coasters.
Khadi Gramodyog BhavanHANDICRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Dr Atmaram Borkar Rd; h9am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)
S
Goa’s only outpost of the government’s Khadi & Village Industries Commission has an excellent range of hand-woven cottons, oils, soaps, spices and other handmade products that come straight from (and directly benefit) regional villages.
8Information
Internet Access
Cozy NookINTERNET, TRAVEL AGENCY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 18th Jun Rd; per hr ₹40; h9am-8.30pm)
Fast and friendly internet, and a good travel agency.
Medical Services
Goa Medical College HospitalHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2458700; www.gmc.goa.gov.in; Bambolin)
This 1000-bed hospital is 9km south of Panaji on NH17 in Bambolim.
Vintage HospitalsHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-6644401, ambulance 9764442220; www.vintagehospitals.com; Caculo Enclave, St Inez; h24hr)
Central Panaji’s best hospital in an emergency; it’s just west of the centre near Caculo Mall.
Money
International 24-hour ATMs are widespread in Panaji; look out for HDFC, State Bank of India, ICICI and Axis.
Thomas CookTRAVEL AGENCY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2221312; 8 Alcon Chambers, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Changes travellers cheques commission-free and gives cash advances on Visa and MasterCard.
Post
Hidden in the lanes around the main post office, there are privately run parcel-wrapping outfits that charge reasonable prices for their essential services.
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; MG Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Offers swift parcel services and Western Union money transfers.
Tourist Information
Goa Tourism Development CorporationTOURIST INFORMATION
(Goa Tourism, GTDC;
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2437132; www.goa-tourism.com; Paryatan Bhavan, Dr Alvaro Costa Rd; h9.30am-5.45pm Mon-Sat)
Better known as Goa Tourism, the GTDC office is in the slick new Paryatan Bhavan building across the Ourem Creek and near the bus stand. However, it’s more corporate office than tourist office and is of little use to casual visitors, unless you want to book one of GTDC’s host of tours.
Government of India Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2223412; www.incredibleindia.com; Communidade Bldg, Church Sq; h9.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)
The staff at this central tourist office can be helpful, especially for information outside Goa. This office is expected to move to the same building as Goa Tourism by the time you read this.
Travel Agencies
There are several travel agencies where you can book and confirm flights; many are along 18th June Rd.
E-zy TravelsTRAVEL AGENCY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2435300; www.ezytravels.in; shop 8-9, Durga Chambers, 18th Jun Rd)
A professionally run travel agent that can book international flights.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Dabolim Airport is around 30km south of Panaji. There are no direct bus services between the airport and Panaji, though some higher-end hotels offer a minibus service, often included in the room tariff.
A taxi from Panaji to the airport costs ₹800 and takes about 45 minutes, but allow an hour for traffic. From Dabolim, the prepaid taxi fare is ₹670 (₹770 for AC). Alternatively, if you don’t have much luggage, you can catch a bus from the main road to Vasco da Gama, then a bus direct from Vasco to Panaji (₹30, 45 minutes).
Boat
Taking the rusty but free passenger/vehicle ferry across the Mandovi River to the fishing village of Betim makes a fun shortcut en route to the northern beaches. It departs the jetty on Dayanand Bandodkar Marg roughly every 15 minutes between 6am and 10pm. From Betim there are regular buses onwards to Calangute and Candolim.
Bus
All local buses depart from Panaji’s Kadamba bus stand (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %interstate enquiries 0832-2438035, local enquiries 0832-2438034; www.goakadamba.com; hreservations 8am-8pm), with frequent local services (running to no apparent timetable) heading out every few minutes; major destinations are Mapusa in the north, Margao to the south and Ponda to the east. Most bus services run from 6am to 10pm. Ask at the bus stand to be directed to the right bus for you, or check the signs on the bus windscreens. Fares range from ₹10 to Old Goa to ₹30 to Margao. To get to the beaches in South Goa, take an express bus to Margao (45 minutes) and change there; to get to beaches north of Baga, it’s best to head to Mapusa (20 minutes) and change there. There are direct buses to Candolim, Calangute and Baga.
State-run long distance services also depart from the Kadamba bus stand, but prices offered by private operators are similar and they offer greater choice in type of bus and departure times. Many private operators have booths outside the entrance to the Kadamba bus stand (go there to compare prices and times), but most private interstate services depart from the interstate bus stand across the highway next to the New Patto Bridge.
The main thing to note about private bus services is that fares are seasonal and can change dramatically depending on the type of bus, time of year and even day of the week. December to February, festivals/holidays and weekends are highest.
The Kadamba bus stand has an internet cafe, ATM and lots of cheap snack joints.
Paulo TravelsBUS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2438531; www.phmgoa.com; G1, Kardozo Bldg)
A reliable private operator with offices just north of the Kadamba bus stand. It operates a number of services with varying levels of comfort to Mumbai (₹350 to ₹700, 11 to 15 hours), Pune (₹450 to ₹600, 10 to 12 hours), Hampi (₹450 to ₹650, 10 hours), Bengaluru (Bangalore, ₹450 to ₹750, 14 to 15 hours) and various other long-distance destinations.
Train
The closest train station to Panaji is Karmali (Old Goa), 12km to the east near Old Goa. A number of long-distance services stop here, including services to and from Mumbai, and many trains coming from Margao also stop here – but check in advance. Panaji’s Konkan Railway Reservation Office (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2712940; www.konkanrailway.com; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) is on the 1st floor of the Kadamba bus stand – not at the train station. You can also check times, prices and routes online at www.konkanrailway.com and www.indianrail.gov.in.
8Getting Around
It’s easy enough to get around central Panaji and Fontainhas on foot, which is just as well because taxis and autorickshaws charge extortionately for short trips. A taxi to Old Goa costs around ₹350, and an autorickshaw should agree to take you there for ₹250. Lots of taxis hang around at the Municipal Gardens, making it a good place to haggle for the best price. Autorickshaws and motorcycle taxis can also be found in front of the post office, on 18th June Rd, and just south of the church.
Local buses run to Miramar, Dona Paula and to Old Goa.
West of Panaji
Miramar
Miramar, 3km southwest of the city, is Panaji’s nearest beach. The couple of kilometres of exposed sand facing Aguada Bay are hardly inspiring compared to other Goan beaches but are a popular local place to watch the sun sink into the Arabian Sea. It’s not a great place for swimming and bikinis are likely to attract unwanted attention.
Along the seafront road, at the start of Miramar Beach, is Gaspar Dias. Originally a fort stood here, designed for defence, directly opposite the fort at Reis Magos on the other side of the Mandovi. There’s no fort now, but the most prominent position on the beachfront is taken up by a statue representing Hindu and Christian unity.
Kids and families will enjoy the Goa Science Centre & Planetarium (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.goasciencecentre.in; Marine Hwy, Miramar; admission ₹10, planetarium ₹15; h10am-6pm) with an outdoor park, hands-on interactive displays, 3D movies and a planetarium.
Miramar’s plush Goa Marriott Resort (
GOOGLE MAP
; %0832-2463333; www.marriott.com; Miramar Beach; d ₹7000-15,000; aWs) is the best in the Panaji area, with the 5-star treatment beginning in the lobby and extending right up to the rooms-with-a-view. The 24-hour Waterfront Terrace & Bar is a great place for a sundowner overlooking the pool (which nonguests can use for ₹500), while its Simply Grills restaurant (bookings advised) is a dinner favourite with well-heeled Panjimites.
Frequent local buses run along the Panaji riverfront to Miramar.
Dona Paula
Situated on the headland that divides the Zuari and Mandovi Rivers, 9km southwest of Panaji, Dona Paula allegedly takes its name from Dona Paula de Menenez, a Portuguese viceroy’s daughter who threw herself into the sea from the clifftop after being prevented from marrying a local fisherman. Her tombstone still stands in the chapel at nearby Cabo Raj Bhavan. Though the views over Mormugao Bay are nice enough, and down on the promenade boat operators offer trips, the village is drab, the small beaches raggedy and the hawkers persistent.
For the last 40 years, Baroness Yrsa von Leistner’s (1917–2008) whitewashed Images of India statue has graced a mock acropolis on an outcrop of rock at the end of the Dona Paula road. It portrays a couple looking off in different directions, the man towards the past and the woman towards India’s future.
1Sights
Cabo Raj BhavanFORT
(Cabo Raj Niwas; www.rajbhavangoa.org; hchapel Sun Mass 9.30-10.30am, Christmas, Easter & feast days)
On the westernmost point of the peninsula stands an old fortress, Cabo Raj Bhavan, nowadays the official residence of the Governor of Goa. Plans to build a fortress here, to guard the entrance to the Mandovi and Zuari Rivers, were first proposed in 1540, and although the 16th century had become the 17th before work on the fortress began, a chapel was raised on the spot almost immediately. The fortress was subsequently completed and the chapel extended to include a Franciscan friary. The fort itself, though equipped with several cannons, was never used in defence of Goa, and from the 1650s was instead requisitioned as a grand and temporary residence for Goa’s lucky archbishop.
From 1799 to 1813 the site (along with Fort Aguada and Reis Magos Fort, to the north) was occupied by the British who, during the Napoleonic Wars, deemed it necessary in order to deter the French from invading Goa. Now all that remains of the British presence is a forlorn little British cemetery, with gravestones spanning just over a century. It’s tucked away behind the Institute of Oceanography – look for the hand-painted sign to the cemetery and the clam-shaped Oceanography Institute roof off the main roundabout. Cabo Raj Bhavan’s 500-year-old chapel also draws thousands of locals to its Feast of the Chapel for prayers and festivities each 15 August.
After the departure of the British, the buildings were once again inhabited by the archbishop of Goa, but it didn’t remain long in his possession: in 1866 the Portuguese viceroy took a shine to the buildings, and had them refurbished and converted into the governor’s palace, packing the poor old archbishop off to the hilltop Bishop’s Palace in Altinho.
4Sleeping & Eating
Dona Paula offers several guesthouses and higher-end hotels, but it’s hardly an appealing beach destination. There’s a cluster of simple cafes along the seafront.
O PescadorHOTEL
(%0832-2453863; www.opescador.com; d without/with AC ₹3900/6000, ste ₹7100; aWs)
Also known as the Dona Paula Beach Resort, O Pescador’s site has been utilised to create well-decorated mock-Portuguese villas with a nice view of the ‘private’ beach. It’s a firm favourite among the UK package-holiday crowd and is also the base for Dive Goa (%93250 30110; www.divegoa.com; Jetty Rd, Dona Paula).
Cidade de GoaHOTEL
(%0832-2454545; www.cidadedegoa.com; d from ₹15,000; aiWs)
Indulgence is the order of the day at this swanky village-style place, designed by renowned local architect Charles Correa, located 1km down the coast from Dona Paula at Vanguinim Beach. All the usual opulence is on offer, including pool, spa and casino, and eight restaurants.
8Getting There & Away
Frequent buses to Dona Paula depart the Kadamba bus stand in Panaji (₹6, 20 minutes), running along riverfront Dayanand Bandodkar Marg, and passing through Miramar.
Panaji to Old Goa
Ribandar
The old riverside road joining Panaji to Old Goa, via the quaint village of Ribandar, seems to have changed little since it was first built on land reclaimed from marshes some 400 years ago. Considering it’s so close to the capital, driving this route towards Old Goa gives you the distinct impression that time has stood still. Ribandar makes a nice place to pause, and is one of several ferry (free; h8.30am-8pm) access points to Chorao and Divar Islands.
Chorao Island
Lazy Chorao Island, accessible by the free ferry from Ribandar or Divar Island, is mainly known for its beautiful bird sanctuary. If you arrive here with your own transport it’s worth a ride through the countryside to little Chorao village, with its handful of whitewashed village churches and picturesque Portuguese homes. You can also ride or drive to the Divar ferry crossing, explore that island and ferry back to the mainland at Old Goa.
1Sights
Dr Salim Ali Bird SanctuaryBIRD SANCTUARY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Chorao Island; admission ₹75, forest department boat ₹900; h6am-6pm)
Named after the late Dr Salim Moizzudin Abdul Ali, India’s best-known ornithologist, this serene sanctuary on Chorao Island was created by Goa’s Forestry Department in 1988 to protect the birdlife that thrives here and the mangroves that have grown up in and around the reclaimed marshland. Apart from the ubiquitous white egrets and purple herons, you can expect to see colourful kingfishers, eagles, cormorants, kites, woodpeckers, sandpipers, curlews, drongos and mynahs, to name just a few.
Marsh crocodiles, foxes, jackals and otters have also been spotted by some visitors, along with the bulbous-headed mudskipper fish that skim across the water’s surface at low tide. There’s a birdwatching tower in the sanctuary that can be reached by boat when the river level, dependent on the tide, is not too low.
Even for those not especially interested in the birds themselves, a leisurely drift in dugout canoe through the sanctuary’s mangrove swamps offers a fascinating insight into life on this fragile terrain.
The best time to visit is either in the early morning (around 8am) or in the evening (a couple of hours before sunset), but since the Mandovi is a tidal river, boat trips depend somewhat on tide times. You’ll find boatmen, in possession of dugout canoes to take you paddling about the sanctuary, waiting around at the ferry landing on Chorao Island; the going rate is around ₹700 for a 1½-hour trip. The forest department also operates a boat, which can hold up to 12 people, for ₹900. Don’t forget to bring binoculars and a field guide to all things feathered if you’re a keen birdwatcher.
To get to Chorao Island by bus, board a bus from Panaji bound for Old Goa and ask to be let off at the Ribandar ferry crossing.
Old Goa
Life in Old Goa, the principal city of the Portuguese eastern empire from 1510 until its abandonment in 1835, was anything but dull. Its rise was meteoric. Over the course of the century following the arrival of the Portuguese in Goa, the city became famous throughout the world. One Dutch visitor compared it with Amsterdam for the volume of its trade and wealth; at its 17th-century zenith, Old Goa (then known as Ela) was bigger than Lisbon and known as the 'Rome of the East.’
However, its fall was just as swift, and eventually, plagued by epidemic after deadly epidemic – cholera, malaria and typhoid among them – the city was completely abandoned.
Today in Old Goa, 9km east of Panaji on the course of the broad Mandovi River, only a handful of imposing churches and convents remain from the original city, but they are beautifully preserved, impressive in scale and a must-visit while in central Goa.
The site makes an excellent day trip but it can get crowded; try to visit early on a weekday morning or late afternoon.
VISITING OLD GOA
As Goa’s top historical attraction and a focal point for pilgrims and domestic bus tours, Old Goa can get very crowded on weekends and feast days. The best time to visit is on a weekday morning, when you can take in Mass at Sé Cathedral or the Basilica of Bom Jesus and explore the rest of the site before the afternoon heat sets in. Remember to cover your shoulders and legs when entering the churches and cathedral, and observe the various signs – for instance, still photography is allowed in the churches, but not photos of people posing in the church. So no selfies.
History
The first records of a settlement on the site of Old Goa date back to the 12th century and a Brahmin colony known as Ela. Though continuously occupied, it wasn’t until the 15th century that Ela rose to prominence, with the Muslim Bahmani rulers choosing it as the site for a new Goan capital, in place of the ransacked and silted-up port capital of Govepuri (today Goa Velha).
Within a short time the new capital was a thriving city. Contemporary accounts tell of the magnificence of the city and of the grandeur of its royal palace, the city enlarged and strengthened with ramparts and a moat. It became a major trading centre and departure point for pilgrims to Mecca, and also gained prominence for its shipbuilding.
With the arrival of the Portuguese in the 16th century, Ela became the new Portuguese capital and a base for the shipment of spices back to the Old World. Soon came missionaries (including the young Francis Xavier), intent on converting the natives, and in 1560 the Inquisition, to put paid to the legendary licentious behaviour of both locals and colonials. Though their methods were gruesome, the behaviour they were targeting was widespread: despite the proliferation of churches and cathedrals, Old Goa was a city of drunkenness and debauchery; even the clerics themselves sometimes kept harems of slave girls, and death from syphilis was rife.
Syphilis, however, wasn’t to be Old Goa’s most widespread disease. The city had been built on swamps, a breeding ground for mosquitos and malaria, while water sources tainted with sewage caused cholera to sweep its streets. Moreover, by the end of the 16th century the Mandovi River was silting up and Portuguese supremacy on the seas had been usurped by the British, Dutch and French. The city’s decline was accelerated by another devastating cholera epidemic in 1635. Finally, by 1759, the Portuguese had had enough, and the Viceroy moved his official residence to Panjim.
In 1843 Panjim was officially declared the new capital, and by 1846 only Old Goa’s convent of Santa Monica was in regular use, though that was also eventually abandoned, leaving the shadow of a grand and desolate city behind.
From the late 19th century until the mid-20th century, Old Goa remained a city of ghosts, empty but for one or two buildings used as military barracks. When archaeological interest started to increase, work was done to clear the area, and some buildings were returned to their former uses. But for many of the once-glorious buildings, plundered for building materials or simply falling victim to the elements, the reprieve came too late; the starkest reminder of this is the skeletal tower of the Church of St Augustine, which can be seen for miles around.
Old Goa
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oBasilica of Bom JesusCHURCH
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Famous throughout the Roman Catholic world, the imposing Basilica of Bom Jesus contains the tomb and mortal remains of St Francis Xavier, the so-called Apostle of the Indies. St Francis Xavier’s missionary voyages throughout the East became legendary. His ‘incorrupt’ body is in the mausoleum to the right, in a glass-sided coffin amid a shower of gilt stars.
Construction on the basilica began in 1594 and was completed in 1605, to create an elaborate late-Renaissance structure, fronted by a facade combining elements of Doric, Ionic and Corinthian design.
Prominent in the design of the facade is the intricately carved central rectangular pediment, embellished with the Jesuit emblem ‘IHS,’ an abbreviation of the Latin ‘Iesus Hominum Salvator’ (Jesus, Saviour of Men).
This is the only church in Old Goa not plastered on the outside, the lime plaster having been stripped off by a zealous Portuguese conservationist in 1950. Apparently his notion was that exposed to the elements, the laterite stone of which the basilica is built would become more durable and thus the building would be strengthened. Despite proof to the contrary, no one has got around to putting the plaster back yet; hence, some of the intricate carving is eroding with the dousing of each successive monsoon.
Inside, the basilica’s layout is simple but grand, contained beneath a simple wooden ceiling. The huge and ornate gilded reredos, stretching from floor to ceiling behind the altar, takes pride of place, its baroque ornament contrasting strongly with the classical, plain layout of the cathedral itself. It shows a rather portly St Ignatius Loyola, protecting a tiny figure of the infant Jesus. His eyes are raised to a huge gilded sun above his head, on which ‘IHS’ is again emblazoned, above which is a representation of the Trinity.
To the right of the altar is the slightly grisly highlight for the vast majority of visitors: the body of St Francis Xavier himself. The body was moved into the church in 1622, and installed in its current mausoleum in 1698 courtesy of the last of the Medicis, Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, in exchange for the pillow on which St Francis’ head had been resting. Cosimo engaged the Florentine sculptor Giovanni Batista Foggini to work on the three-tiered structure, constructed of jasper and marble, flanked with stars, and adorned with bronze plaques that depict scenes from the saint’s life. Topping it all off, and holding the shrivelled saint himself, is the casket, designed by Italian Jesuit Marcelo Mastrili and constructed by local silversmiths in 1659, the sides of which were originally encrusted with precious stones that, over the centuries, have been picked off.
Crowds are heaviest at the basilica during the Feast of St Francis Xavier, held annually on 3 December and preceded by a nine-day devotional novena, with lots of lighthearted festivity alongside the more solemn open-air Masses. Once every 10 years, the saint is given an exposition, and his body hauled around Old Goa before scores of pilgrims. The last one was in 2014, so you’ll have to wait until 2024.
Passing from the chapel towards the sacristy there are a couple of items relating to St Francis’ remains and, slightly further on, the stairs to a gallery of modern art.
Next to the basilica is the Professed House of the Jesuits, a two-storey laterite building covered with lime plaster. It actually pre-dates the basilica, having been completed in 1585. It was from here that Jesuit missions to the east were organised. Part of the building burned down in 1633 and was partially rebuilt in 1783.
Mass is held in the basilica in Konkani at 7am and 8am Monday to Saturday, at 8am and 9.15am on Sunday, and at 10.15am in English on Sunday. Confession is held daily in the sacristy from 5pm to 6pm.
oSé CathedralCATHEDRAL
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At over 76m long and 55m wide, the cavernous Sé Cathedral is the largest church in Asia. Building work commenced in 1562, on the orders of King Dom Sebastiao of Portugal, and the finishing touches where finally made some 90 years later. The exterior of the cathedral is notable for its plain style, in the Tuscan tradition. Also of note is its rather lopsided look resulting from the loss of one of its bell towers, which collapsed in 1776 after being struck by lightning. The remaining tower houses the famous Sino de Ouro (Golden Bell), the largest in Asia and renowned for its rich tone, which once tolled to accompany the Inquisition’s notoriously cruel autos-da-fé (trials of faith), held out the front of the cathedral on what was then the market square.
The huge interior of the cathedral is surprisingly plain. To the right as you enter is a small, locked area that contains a font made in 1532, said to have been used by St Francis Xavier. Two small statuettes, inset into the main pillars, depict St Francis Xavier and St Ignatius Loyola. There are four chapels on either side of the nave, two of which have screens across the entrance. Of these, the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament is outstanding, with every inch of wall and ceiling gorgeously gilded and decorated – a complete contrast to the austerity of the cathedral interior.
Opposite, to the right of the nave, is the other screened chapel, the Chapel of the Cross of Miracles. The story goes that in 1619 a simple cross (known as the Cruz dos Milagres) made by local shepherds was erected on a hillside near Old Goa. The cross grew bigger and several witnesses saw an apparition of Christ hanging on it. A church was planned on the spot where the vision had appeared and while this was being built the cross was stored nearby. When it came time to move the cross into the new church it was found that it had grown again and that the doors of the church had to be widened to accommodate it. The cross was moved to the cathedral in 1845, where it soon became, and remains, a popular place of petition for the sick.
Towering above the main altar is the huge gilded reredos (ornamental screen), its six main panels carved with scenes from the life of St Catherine, to whom the cathedral is dedicated. She was beheaded in Alexandria, and among the images here are those showing her awaiting execution and being carried to Mt Sinai by angels.
Kristu Kala Mandir Art GalleryGALLERY
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This gallery, sandwiched between the Church of St Francis of Assisi and Sé Cathedral, is located in what used to be the archbishop’s house, and contains a hodgepodge collection of contemporary Christian art and religious objects.
Church of St Francis of AssisiCHURCH
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West of the Sé Cathedral, the Church of St Francis of Assisi is no longer in use for worship, and consequently exudes a more mournful air than its neighbours.
The church started life as a small chapel, built on this site by eight Franciscan friars on their arrival in 1517. In 1521 it was replaced by a church consecrated to the Holy Ghost, which was then subsequently rebuilt in 1661, with only the doorway of the old building incorporated into the new structure. This original doorway, in ornate Manueline style, contrasts strongly with the rest of the facade, the plainness of which had become the fashion by the 17th century.
Maritime themes – unsurprising given Old Goa’s important port status – can be seen here and there, including navigators’ globes and coats of arms, which once adorned ships’ sails.
The interior of the church, though now rather ragged and faded, is nevertheless beautiful, in a particularly ‘folk art’ type style. The walls and ceiling are heavily gilded and decorated with carved wood panels, with large paintings depicting the works of St Francis adorning the walls of the chancel. Look out for the huge arch that supports the choir, painted vividly with floral designs, and the intricately carved pulpit. The reredos dominates the gilded show, although this one is different to others in Old Goa, with a deep recess for the tabernacle. The four statues in its lower portion represent apostles, and above the reredos hangs Christ on the cross. The symbolism of this scene is unmistakable: Jesus has his right arm free to embrace St Francis, who is standing atop the three vows of the Franciscan order – Poverty, Humility and Obedience.
Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
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Part of the Franciscan monastery at the back of the Church of St Francis of Assisi is now an archaeological museum, housing some lovely fragments of sculpture from Hindu temple sites in Goa, and some Sati stones, which once marked the spot where a Hindu widow committed suicide by flinging herself onto her husband’s funeral pyre.
You’ll also find two large bronze statues here: one of the Portuguese poet Luís Vaz de Camões, which once stood more prominently in the central grassy area of Old Goa, and one of Afonso de Albuquerque, the Portuguese conqueror and first governor of Goa, which stood in the Azad Maidan in Panaji, before being moved here after Independence.
Upstairs, a gallery contains portraits of some 60 of Goa’s Portuguese viceroys, spanning more than 400 years of Portuguese rule. Not particularly exciting in terms of portraiture, they’re an interesting insight into Portugal’s changing fashions, each as unsuitable for the tropical heat as the last.
Chapel of St CatherineCHURCH
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About 100m to the west of the Church of St Francis of Assisi stands the small Chapel of St Catherine. An earlier chapel was erected on this site by Portuguese conqueror Afonso de Albuquerque in 1510 to commemorate his triumphant entry into the city on St Catherine’s Day. In 1534 the chapel was granted cathedral status by Pope Paul III and was subsequently rebuilt; the inscribed stone added during rebuilding states that Afonso de Albuquerque actually entered the city at this spot, and thus it’s believed that the chapel stands on what used to be the main gate of the Muslim city, then known as Ela.
Church & Convent of St CajetanCHURCH
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Modelled on the original design of St Peter’s in Rome, this impressive church was built by Italian friars of the Order of Theatines, sent here by Pope Urban VIII to preach Christianity in the kingdom of Golconda (near Hyderabad). The friars, however, were refused entry to Golconda, so settled instead at Old Goa in 1640. The construction of the church began in 1655, and although it’s perhaps less interesting than the other churches, it’s still a beautiful building and the only domed church remaining in Goa.
Though the altar is dedicated to Our Lady of Divine Providence, the church is named after the founder of the Theatine order, St Cajetan (1480–1547), a contemporary of St Francis Xavier. Born in Vicenza, St Cajetan spent his whole life in Italy, establishing the Order of Theatines in Rome in 1524. He was known for his work in hospitals and with ‘incurables,’ and for his high moral stance in an increasingly corrupt Roman Catholic church. He was canonised in 1671.
The facade of the church is classical in design and the four niches on the front contain statues of apostles. Inside, clever use of internal buttresses and four huge pillars have given the interior a cruciform construction, above the centre of which is the towering dome. The inscription around the inside of the base of the dome is a verse from the Gospel of St Matthew. The largest of the altars on the right-hand side of the church is dedicated to St Cajetan himself. On the left side are paintings illustrating episodes in the life of St Cajetan; in one it appears, quite peculiarly, that he is being breastfed at some distance by an angel whose aim is remarkably accurate. Traditionally, the last mortal remains of deceased Portuguese governors were kept in the church’s crypt, beneath the reredos, in lead coffins until their shipment home to their final resting place. The last few, forgotten for more than three decades, were finally sent back to Lisbon in 1992.
Adjoining the church, the Convent of St Cajetan is nowadays a college for recently ordained priests; next door, immediately to the west, you’ll see a freestanding basalt doorway, atop five steps, which is the only remains of the grand palace of Goa’s 16th-century Muslim ruler Adil Shah. This was later converted into the notorious Palace of the Inquisition, in the dungeons of which countless ‘heretics’ languished, awaiting their dreadful fate. The palace was torn down in the 18th century and its materials repurposed for building in Panaji.
Ruins of the Church of St AugustineRUIN
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Standing on Holy Hill (Monte Santo) is perhaps the most mournful memorial to Old Goa’s fallen might. All that’s left today of the Church of St Augustine is the 46m-high tower, which served as a belfry and formed part of the church’s facade. The few other remnants are choked with creepers and weeds, making picking your way among them rather difficult. The church was constructed in 1602 by Augustinian friars who had arrived in Old Goa in 1587 and was abandoned in 1835.
As Old Goa emptied due to a continual series of deadly epidemics, the church fell into neglect and the vault collapsed in 1842. In 1931 the facade and half the tower fell down, followed by more sections in 1938. The tower’s huge bell was moved in 1871 to the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Panaji, where it can be seen (and heard) today.
Church & Convent of St MonicaCHURCH
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Work on this three-storey laterite church and convent commenced in 1606 and was completed in 1627, only to burn down nine years later. Reconstruction began the following year and it’s from this time that the current buildings date. Once known as the ‘Royal Monastery’ because of the royal patronage that it enjoyed, the building comprised the first nunnery in the East but, like the other religious institutions, it was crippled by the banning of the religious orders and, though it didn’t immediately close, it was finally abandoned when the last sister died in 1885.
During the 1950s and ’60s the buildings housed first Portuguese and then Indian troops, before being returned to the church in 1968. The building is now used by nuns of the Mater Dei Institute and was closed for renovations at the time of research, but might open to visitors in the future. The high point of a visit is a peek at the ‘miraculous’ cross behind the high altar, said to have opened its eyes in 1636, when blood began to drip from its crown of thorns.
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This excellent museum, in a stunningly restored space within the 1627 Convent of St Monica, contains a collection of statues, paintings and sculptures, though the setting warrants a visit in its own right. Interestingly, many of the works of Goan Christian art made during the Portuguese era, including some of those on display here, were produced by local Hindu artists.
Church of Our Lady of the RosaryCHURCH
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Passing beneath the buttresses of the Convent of St Monica, about 250m further along the road is the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, which stands on the top of a high bluff. It’s one of the earliest churches in Goa; legend has it that Afonso de Albuquerque surveyed the action during his troops’ attack on the Muslim city from this bluff and vowed to build a church there in thanks for his victory. It’s also thought to be here that St Francis Xavier gave his first sermon upon his arrival in Old Goa.
The church, which has been beautifully restored, is Manueline in style and refreshingly simple in design. There are excellent views of the Mandovi River and Divar Island from the church’s dramatic position, but unfortunately the building is frequently locked.
The only ornaments on the outside of the church are simple rope-twist devices, which bear testimony to Portugal’s reliance on the sea. Inside the same is true; the reredos is wonderfully plain after all the gold decoration in the churches down in the centre of Old Goa, and the roof consists simply of a layer of tiles. Set into the floor in front of the altar is the tombstone of one of Goa’s early governors, Garcia de Sá, and set into the northern wall of the chancel is that of his wife, Caterina a Piró.
Chapel of St AnthonyCHURCH
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The Chapel of St Anthony, dedicated to the saint of the Portuguese army and navy, was one of the earliest to be built in Goa, again on the directions of Afonso de Albuquerque in order to celebrate the assault on the city. Like the other institutions around it, St Anthony’s was abandoned in 1835 but was brought back into use at the end of the 19th century and is now partly in use as a convent.
Viceroy’s ArchMONUMENT
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Perhaps the best way to arrive in Old Goa is the same way that visitors did in the city’s heyday. Approaching along the wide Mandovi River, new arrivals would have first glimpsed the city’s busy wharf just in front of the symbolic arched entrance to the city.
This archway, known as the Viceroy’s Arch, was erected by Vasco da Gama’s grandson, Francisco da Gama, who became viceroy in 1597. On the side facing the river the arch (which was restored in 1954 following a collapse) is ornamented with the deer emblem on Vasco da Gama’s coat of arms. Above it in the centre of the archway is a statue of da Gama himself.
On the side facing the city is a sculpture of a European woman wielding a sword over an Indian, who is lying under her feet. No prizes for guessing the message here, as the Inquisition made its way liberally across the city. The arch originally had a third storey with a statue of St Catherine.
WORTH A TRIP
CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE MOUNT
Church of Our Lady of the MountCHURCH
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This church is often overlooked due to its location on a wooded hilltop, some 2km east of the central area. A sealed road leads to an overgrown flight of steps (don’t walk it solo) and the hill on which the church stands commands an excellent view of Old Goa, with the church spires seemingly rising out a sea of palms.
The church was built by Afonso de Albuquerque, completed in 1519, and has been rebuilt twice since; it now makes the perfect, suitably sorrowful place to watch the sunset over the ruins of once-mighty Old Goa. Usually locked, you can gain entry during the Feast of St Francis Xavier in December, and the Monte Music Festival in February, when concerts are held here.
OLD GOA’S ARCHITECTURE
In order to make the most of what you encounter in Old Goa, it’s worth a brief brush-up on its architectural heritage.
Most churches are made of laterite, a local red and highly porous stone, which was traditionally coated in white lime wash, mixed with crushed clam shells, in an effort to prevent erosion. Some were embellished with harder-wearing basalt, much of it quarried from Bassein, near Mumbai, though some is thought to have been brought as ballast by ships from Portugal.
Built in an era of glorious colonialism, much of what’s on display today is staunchly European, inspired by the building fashions of late-Renaissance Rome. The pinnacle of building here (in the early 17th century) collided with the rise, in Europe, of the baroque movement, characterised by its love of dripping gilt, scrollwork and ornamentation. This pomp and splendour served an important purpose for its priests and missionaries, as it kept the locals awed into submission, feeling dwarfed and vulnerable when confronted with an immense gold altarpiece.
The second style evident at Old Goa is more wholly Portuguese, known as Manueline, after its main patron King Manuel I. This vernacular approach saw the embellishment of buildings with symbols reflecting Portuguese might; anchors, ropes and other maritime motifs represent Portugal’s ascendency on the high seas. Though not too much Manueline architecture has survived the test of time, the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary remains a well-preserved example.
4Sleeping & Eating
The only real reason to stay in Old Goa’s solitary hotel is to be here early in the morning before the day-trippers arrive, and at night after they’ve left. A string of little tourist restaurants near the bus stop offer snacks, chai and thalis.
Old Goa ResidencyHOTEL
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; %0832-2285013, 0832-2285327; d without/with AC ₹980/1250; a)
The GTDC’s hotel isn’t flash, but it’s reasonably good value and a comfortable distance from everything you’re here to see in Old Goa.
8Information
Old Goa has no tourist office, but willing tour guides linger outside the main churches. Ask at the Museum of Christian Art about walking tours of the whole site. You can also enquire at the Archaeological Museum, which stocks books on Old Goa, including S Rajagopalan’s excellent booklet Old Goa, published by the Archaeological Survey of India. One of the most comprehensive is Old Goa: the Complete Guide by Oscar de Noronha (2004).
THE TALE OF CATERINA & GARCIA
Old Goa at one time was full of sex and scandal, and the graves of Garcia de Sá and Caterina a Piró, in Old Goa’s demure Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, have their own lascivious tale to tell.
Caterina a Piró, a ‘commoner’ by birth, was the first Portuguese woman to arrive in the new colony of Old Goa, apparently departing Portugal in an attempt to flee the scandal surrounding her affair with a Portuguese nobleman named Garcia de Sá. The star-crossed pair, however, were destined to meet again, when de Sá was made one of Goa’s earliest governors.
Under pressure from the newly arrived St Francis Xavier, de Sá was finally persuaded to do the honourable deed and marry Caterina, who, unfortunately, was already on her deathbed at the time. Her finely carved tomb, at a ‘respectful’ distance from Garcia’s, might suggest to some that the relationship was never exactly true love.
8Getting There & Away
There are frequent buses to Old Goa (₹10, 25 minutes) from the Kadamba bus stand in Panaji. Buses to Panaji or Ponda leave when full (around every 10 minutes) from either the main roundabout or the bus stop/ATM just beside the Tourist Inn restaurant.
Divar Island
Stepping off the ferry from Old Goa onto beautiful little riverine Divar Island, you have the distinct feeling of entering the land that time forgot. Surrounded by marshy waters and crisscrossed with sleepy single-lane roads, the island makes for lovely, languid exploration, and though there’s not much particularly to see, it’s a serene and seldom-visited place to take in the atmosphere of old-time rural Goa.
The largest settlement on the island is sleepy but picturesque Piedade. But Divar, whose name stems from the Konkani dev and vaddi (translated as ‘place of the Gods’), has an important Hindu history that belies its modern day tranquillity.
Before the coming of the Portuguese, Divar was the site of two particularly important temples – the Saptakoteshwara Temple (moved across the river to Bicholim when the Portuguese began to persecute the Hindus), as well as a Ganesh temple that stood on the solitary hill in Piedade. The former contained a powerful Shivalingam (phallic symbol representing the god Shiva), which was smuggled during the Inquisition to Naroa on the opposite side of the river, just before more than 1500 Divar residents were forcibly converted to Christianity. It’s likely that the Ganesh temple, meanwhile, was destroyed by Muslim troops near the end of the 15th century, since the first church on this site was built in around 1515.
The church that occupies the hill today, the Church of Our Lady of Compassion, combines an impressive facade with an engagingly simple interior. The ceiling is picked out in plain white stucco designs, and the windows are set well back into the walls, allowing only a dim light to penetrate into the church; the views alone, however, make Piedade and its church worth the trip.
Beside the church, a small cemetery offers one of only a few fragments of the once grand Kadamba dynasty. The small chapel in its grounds was converted from an older Hindu shrine, and the carving, painted plaster ceiling and faint stone tracery at the window all date from before the death of the Kadamba dynasty in 1352. Look around for the priest, who’ll unlock the chapel for you to take a look.
Divar Island Retreat (%0832-2280605, 9823993155; www.divarretreatgoa.com; r incl breakfast ₹3500; Ws), a divine family-run homestay in a beautiful old Portuguese mansion, is reason enough to stay on Divar. The 12 individually decorated rooms come with bathroom and flat-screen TV and are arranged around a pretty garden and pool. It’s in the main village but there’s no sign – call ahead.
Divar Island can only be reached by one of three free vehicle ferry services. A boat from Old Goa (near the Viceroy’s Arch) runs to the south side of the island, while the east end of the island is connected by ferry to Naroa in the Bicholim taluk (district). Another ferry operates to Ribandar from the southwest of the island. Ferries run frequently from around 7am to 8pm.
DIVAR’S FESTA DAS BANDEIRAS
Many of the visible inhabitants of Divar Island are women, since a large number of Divar’s male population have left home to seek their fortunes on the construction sites of the Middle East and elsewhere in Asia. Each year, in January, they return home to celebrate the Festa das Bandeiras (Flag Festival), during which they parade around Piedade, waving flags from their adoptive homes. The tradition is thought to stem from an ancient pagan Harvest Festival, during which the villagers marked the boundaries of their land by marching about it, wielding weapons. Today the most dangerous part of the proceedings is the brandishing of pea-shooters.
Goa Velha
Though it’s hard to believe it today, the little village of Goa Velha – nowadays just a blur of roadside buildings on a trip south towards Margao along the national highway NH17 – was once home to Govepuri, a grand international port and capital city, attracting Arab traders who settled the surrounding area, rich from the spoils of the spice trade.
Before the establishment of Old Goa (then known as Ela) as Goa’s Muslim capital around 1472, Govepuri, clinging to the banks of the Zuari River, flourished under the Hindu Kadamba dynasty. It was only centuries later, long after grand Govepuri had fallen, that the place was renamed Goa Velha by the Portuguese, to distinguish it from their new capital, Old Goa, known to them simply as Goa.
The city, which in its heyday was southwest India’s wealthiest, was established by the Kadambas around 1054, but in 1312 was almost totally destroyed by Muslim invaders from the north, and over the following years was repeatedly plagued by Muslim invasions. It wasn’t until Goa came under the control of the Hampi-based Vijayanagar Empire in 1378 that trade revived, but by this time the fortunes of the old capital had declined beyond repair, due to both its crushing destruction and the gradual silting-up of its once lucrative port. In 1472 the Muslim Bahmani sultanate took Goa, destroyed what remained of Govepuri, and moved the capital to Old Goa.
Just off the main road at the northern extent of Goa Velha is the Church of St Andrew, which hosts an annual festival. On the Monday a fortnight before Easter, 30 statues of saints are taken from their storage place in Old Goa and paraded around the roads of the village. The festivities include a small fair, and the crowds that attend this festival are so vast that police have to restrict movement on the NH17 highway that runs through the village.
The procession has its origins in the 17th century when, at the prompting of the Franciscans, a number of lavishly decked-out life-sized statues were paraded through the area as a reminder to locals of the lives of the saints and as an attempt to curb the licentiousness of the day. Originally the processions started and ended at Pilar, but in 1834 the religious orders were forced to leave Goa and the statues were transferred to the Church of St Andrew. Processions lapsed and many of the original sculptures were lost or broken, but in 1895 subscriptions were raised to obtain a new set, which is still used today, and the procession was reinstated with gusto.
WORTH A TRIP
CHURCH OF ST LAWRENCE, AGASSIM
Church of St LawrenceCHURCH
About 3km south of Goa Velha, at the south end of the small village of Agassim, is the Church of St Lawrence, a plain and battered-looking building that houses one of the most flamboyantly decorated reredos (ornamental screen) in Goa. The heavily gilded construction behind the altar is unique not only for its wealth of detail but also for its peculiar design, which has multitudes of candlesticks projecting from the reredos itself. The panelled blue-and-white ceiling of the chancel sets the scene.
Pilar
A few kilometres north of Goa Velha, and 12km southeast of Panaji, set on a hill high above the surrounding countryside, is Pilar Seminary, one of four theological colleges built by the Portuguese. Only two of these seminaries still survive, the other being Rachol Seminary near Margao. The hill upon which the seminary stands was once the site of a large and ancient Hindu temple, dedicated to Shiva; it’s thought that this was the Goveshwar Mandir, from which the name Goa is thought to have derived. The college was established here in 1613 by Capuchin monks, naming it Our Lady of Pilar, after the statue they brought with them from Spain.
Abandoned in 1835 when the Portuguese expelled the religious orders, the seminary was rescued by the Carmelites in 1858 and became the headquarters of the Missionary Society of St Francis Xavier in 1890. The movement gradually petered out and in 1936 the buildings were handed over to the Xaverian League. Today the seminary is still in use, as a training centre for missionaries, and is also the site of local pilgrimages by those who come to give thanks for the life of Father Agnelo de Souza, a director of the seminary in the early 20th century who was beatified after his death.
Aside from the beautiful views afforded from its roof terrace, the seminary is home to a small museum (h8am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat), which holds some of the Hindu relics discovered on-site, as well as some lovely religious paintings, carvings and artefacts. The 1st floor of the building houses a small, but brilliantly lit, chapel.
At the bottom of the hill is the old Church of Our Lady of Pilar, which still contains the original statue brought from Spain, along with lots of tombstones of Portuguese nobility, the grave of the locally famed Father Agnelo, and some attractive paintings in an alcove at the rear of the chapel.