Frommer’s EasyGuide to Costa Rica 2014

Hotel Capitán Suizo This is my favorite hotel in Tamarindo. It’s located right on the beach at the quieter far southern end of Tamarindo, the grounds are lush and beautiful, service is top-notch, and the rooms are large, well kept, and thoroughly inviting. The hotel’s free-form pool is one of the largest and best in town. This hotel is great for families and honeymooners alike. There are no TVs in the room, if that matters, and about half are cooled simply by fans and well-designed cross-ventilation.

In addition to the hotels listed below, beach houses and condos may be rented (by the night, week, or month) in Tamarindo, Playa Langosta, and Playa Grande. Check out RE/MAX Tamarindo ( 800/385-5930 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2653-0073 in Costa Rica; www.remax-oceansurf-cr.com) or RPM Vacation Rentals ( 2653-0738; www.rpmvacationrentals.com) for more on these options.

EXPENSIVE

In addition to the places listed below, Villa Alegre ( 2653-0270; www.villaalegrecostarica.com) is a lovely little B&B on the beach in Playa Langosta.

Playa Tamarindo, Guanacaste. 2653-0075 or 2653-0353. www.hotelcapitansuizo.com. 35 units, 7 bungalows. $175–$260 double; $250–$415 bungalow; $330–$415 suite. Rates include breakfast buffet. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small exercise room; midsize outdoor pool and children’s pool; spa; Wi-Fi.

Sueño del Mar This intimate bed-and-breakfast has built a loyal following and gained plenty of local fame with its well-designed rooms, personalized service, gorgeous sunsets, and spectacular breakfasts. A quiet setting on Playa Langosta doesn’t hurt, either. The second-floor Luna Suite is the prime room in the house and is worth the splurge if it’s available. The standard rooms feature cute open-air showers with small gardens and plantings providing privacy.

Playa Langosta, Guanacaste. 2653-0284. www.sueno-del-mar.com. 4 units, 2 casitas. $205 double; $185–$230 suite or casita. Rates include full breakfast. No children 11 and under. Amenities: Small outdoor pool; free use of snorkel equipment and boogie boards; free Wi-Fi.

MODERATE

Hotel Arco Iris Set about 300m (100 ft.) inland from the beach, this small complex of rooms and bungalows sits in shady grounds. It’s worth a small splurge for the larger deluxe rooms. The American owner Richard is frequently on hand and makes sure everything is in great shape. There’s a small pool, and the restaurant here, Season’s By Shlomy (see below), is excellent.

Playa Tamarindo, Guanacaste. 2653-0330. www.hotelarcoiris.com. 13 units. $99–$160 double. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Pasatiempo This lovely small resort, located a few blocks inland from the water, offers rooms that are spacious and well maintained, with cool tile floors and a relaxed, tropical decor. The central pool is quite inviting, featuring a broad deck area all around it, with tall shade trees. The hotel’s bar and restaurant is one of the livelier spots in town. Wednesday nights are especially fun with an open mic.

Playa Tamarindo, Guanacaste. 2653-0096. www.hotelpasatiempo.com. 18 units. $89–$99 double; $129–$169 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

In addition to the hotel listed below, Hostel La Botella de Leche ( 2653-0189; www.labotelladeleche.com) bills itself as a “5 star” hostel and is a popular backpacker option. The beachfront Witch’s Rock Surf Camp ( 888/318-7873 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2653-1238 in Costa Rica; www.witchsrocksurfcamp.com) caters to young, budget-minded surfers.

Hotel Zully Mar With an enviable location on a prominent corner right in the heart of Tamarindo, this family-run operation delivers clean, cozy rooms at great prices. It’s worth the small splurge for a room with air-conditioning and television. There’s a small, free-form pool for cooling off, but the beach is literally just steps away, across the street.

Playa Tamarindo, Guanacaste. 2653-0140. www.zullymar.com. 22 units. $46–$69 double. Amenities: Small outdoor pool.

INTERNATIONAL/FUSION Dragonfly Bar & Grill After a year or so hiatus, original owner and chef Tish Tomlinson is back at the helm of this local favorite. Set down a back street a little bit away from the action, this open-air restaurant has a casual-chic vibe. The menu features spices and flavors from around the world with prominent influences from the Pacific Rim and southwestern United States. The thick-cut pork loin comes crusted in panko and served with a brandy-Dijon cream sauce. Portions are large. The bar serves up good contemporary cocktails, and there’s occasionally live music.

Tamarindo has a glut of excellent restaurants. El Coconut ( 2653-0086; www.elcoconut-tamarindo.com), right on the main road into town, is a long-standing option, with a large menu, specializing in fresh seafood.

Nogui’s Café ( 2653-0029) is one of the more popular places in town—and rightly so. This simple, open-air cafe just off the beach on the small traffic circle serves hearty breakfasts and well-prepared salads, sandwiches, burgers, and casual meals. They even have a few tables and chairs on the beach, in front of the main restaurant.

Wok N Roll ( 2653-0156), a half-block inland from the Zully Mar (above) along the road that leads to Playa Langosta, is a lively, open-air affair, with a big menu of healthy, fresh Asian cuisine. For pizza, I recommend La Baula ( 2653-1450), a delightful open-air place on the road to Dragonfly (see below). If you want sushi, head to the Bamboo Sushi Club ( 2653-4519), on the main road, near the turnoff for Langosta.

Down a dirt road behind the Hotel Pasatiempo. 2653-1506. www.dragonflybarandgrill.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C6,000–C11,200. Mon–Sat 6–10pm.

SEAFOOD/INTERNATIONAL Pangas Beach Club Chef Jean-Luc Taulere had a very successful run at Mar y Sol in Playa Flamingo, but real estate issues forced him to close up shop there—much to the betterment of the dining scene in Tamarindo. Located on the main road near the northern end of town, this place lets out on to the beach, right about where the ocean meets the estuary. Heavy wooden tables are spread on hard-packed sand under tall coconut trees, which are strung with simple lights to give this place a tropically romantic feel by night. While fresh seafood is the specialty here, folks love the steak tenderloin served on a hot volcanic stone to be cooked at the table. Breakfast and lunch are also served.

On the waterfront, north end of Tamarindo. 2653-0024. Reservations recommended. Main courses C8,000–C12,000. Daily 8am–10pm.

INTERNATIONAL Season’s by Shlomy Cordon Bleu–trained chef and owner Shlomy Koren began his time in Tamarindo at Pachangas. But for the past 5 years or so he’s been serving up his tasty Mediterranean-inspired cuisine out of a small kitchen at the Hotel Arco Iris (see above). I recommend pretty much anything and everything on the menu, but find myself going back for the rice-paper-wrapped red snapper with a sundried-tomato tapenade and lemon-chili sauce. Still, it’s hard to get too attached to any one dish, as the menu changes regularly, with new specials and seasonal variations.

Inside the Hotel Arco Iris. 8368-6983. www.seasonstamarindo.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$19. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 6–10pm.

Exploring Tamarindo

Tamarindo is a long, white-sand beach. Still, you have to be careful when and where you swim. The calmest water and best swimming are always down at the far southern end of the beach, toward Punta Langosta. Much of the sea just off the busiest part of the town is best for surfing. When the swell is up, you’ll find scores of surfers in the water here. Be careful: Rocks are just offshore in several places, some of which are exposed only at low tide. An encounter with one of these rocks could be nasty, especially if you’re bodysurfing. I also advise that you avoid swimming near the estuary mouth, where the currents can carry you out away from the beach.

There are a host of good tour operators in Tamarindo. My favorites include Xplore CR ( 2653-4130; www.xplorecostarica.com) and Iguana Surf ( 2653-0613; www.iguanasurf.net). Both offer a range of half- and full-day trips, including outboard or kayak tours through the nearby estuary and mangroves, excursions to Santa Cruz and Guaitíl, raft floats on the Corobicí River, and tours to Palo Verde and Rincón de la Vieja national parks. Rates run between $40 and $150, depending on the length of the tour and group size.

All of the hotel desks and tour operators in the area offer turtle nesting tours to neighboring Playa Grande, in season, or you can contact ACOTAM ( 2653-1687), a specialized local operator.

CANOPY TOURS There’s no canopy tour available right in Tamarindo, but the Monkey Jungle Canopy Tour ( 8919-4242; www.canopymonkeyjungle.com) and Cartagena Canopy Tour ( 2675-0801; www.canopytourcartagena.com) are nearby. Both charge $45 per person and include transportation from Tamarindo. Of these two, the Monkey Jungle operation is much closer, but I prefer the Cartagena tour, which has a much more lush forest setting. Still, I think your best bet is to take a day trip to Hacienda Guachipelín Click here for page and do the zip-line and canyoning tours there.

HORSEBACK RIDING Although some will be disappointed, I think it’s a very good thing that horses are no longer allowed on the beach. Fortunately, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to ride in the hills and forests around Tamarindo. Most tour operators offer horseback-riding options, but I recommend you go riding with Casagua Horses ( 2653-8041; www.paintedponyguestranch.com). Rates for horse rental, with a guide, are around $30 to $65 per hour.

SAILBOAT CHARTERS Several boats offer cruises offshore from Tamarindo; the 40-foot catamaran “Blue Dolphin” ( 855/842-3204 in the U.S., or 8842-3204 in Costa Rica; www.sailbluedolphin.com) and 66-foot catamaran “Marlin del Rey” ( 877/827-8275 in the U.S., or 2653-1212 in Costa Rica; www.marlindelrey.com) are both good choices. A half-day snorkel or shorter sunset cruise should cost $70 to $85 per person, and a full day should run between $100 and $150 per person. This usually includes an open bar and snacks on the half-day and sunset cruises, and all of that plus lunch on the full-day trip.

SPORTFISHING A host of captains offer anglers a chance to go after the “big ones” that abound in the offshore waters. From the Tamarindo estuary, it takes only 20 minutes to reach the edge of the continental shelf, where the waters are filled with mostly marlin and sailfish. Although fishing is good all year, the peak season for billfish is between mid-April and August. Contact Tamarindo Sportfishing ( 2653-0090; www.tamarindosportfishing.com), Capullo Sportfishing ( 2653-0048; www.capullo.com), or Osprey Sportfishing ( 8590-7240; www.osprey-sportfishing.com).

WATERSPORTS If you want to try snorkeling, surfing, or sea kayaking in Tamarindo, Iguana Surf (see above) rents all the necessary equipment. They have half-day and hourly rates for many of these items.

Tamarindo has a host of surf shops and surf schools, if you want to learn to catch a wave while in town. Tamarindo’s got a great wave to learn on, although it can get very crowded at the popular beginners’ breaks. You can shop around town, or check in with the Tamarindo Surf School ( 2653-0923; www.tamarindosurfschool.com), Banana Surf Club ( 2653-2463; www.bananasurfschool.com), or Witch’s Rock Surf Camp ( 888/318-7873 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2653-1262 in Costa Rica; www.witchsrocksurfcamp.com).

Shopping

Tamarindo’s main boulevard is awash in souvenir stands, art galleries, jewelry stores, and clothing boutiques. For original beachwear and jewelry, try Azul Profundo ( 2653-0395), in the Plaza Tamarindo shopping center. The modern Garden Plaza shopping center, near the entrance to town, has several high-end shops, as well as a massive Automercado (supermarket).

En Route South: Playa Avellanas & Playa Negra

As a popular surfer destination, Tamarindo has a sometimes raging nightlife. The most happening bars in town are Bar 1 ( 2653-2686) and El Garito ( 2653-2017), both housed in the same building about a block inland, on the road leading toward Playa Langosta, and Aqua ( 2653-2782), on the main road through town. Other popular spots throughout the week include the Crazy Monkey Bar at the Best Western Tamarindo Vista Villas ( 2653-0114), and the bar at the Dragonfly Bar & Grill. For a chill-out dance scene, try the Voodoo Lounge ( 2653-0100), while those looking for a rocking sports bar can head to Sharky’s ( 8918-4968). These latter two places are just across from each other, a little up the road that heads to Playa Langosta.

The best casino in town is at the Barceló Playa Langosta ( 2653-0363) resort down in Playa Langosta.

Heading south from Tamarindo are several as-yet-undeveloped beaches, most of which are quite popular with surfers. Beyond Tamarindo and Playa Langosta are Playa Avellanas and Playa Negra. The one and only major development here is the Hacienda Pinilla development, which features an 18-hole golf course and the large, luxurious JW Marriott Guanacaste Resort & Spa ( 888/236-2427 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2681-2000 in Costa Rica; www.marriott.com).

WHERE TO EAT

In addition to the place listed below, the restaurants inside the JW Marriott resort are excellent, and open to the general public.

INTERNATIONAL/SEAFOOD Lola’s This quintessential beach bar and restaurant sits on a patch of land and sand fronting the quiet and underdeveloped Playa Avellanas beach. The Belgian and American owners serve up solid, healthful, fresh food on homemade heavy wooden tables and chairs underneath the shade of palm trees and large linen umbrellas. The fresh, seared tuna can come as a sandwich on thick, freshly baked foccacia, or topping a large salad. This place is extremely popular, especially on weekends, so be prepared to wait occasionally for food or a table (sorry, no reservations). When you’re finished, and if you’re really lucky, you might snag a siesta in one of the hammocks strung between the many coconut palms.

On the beach, Playa Avellanas. 2652-9097. Main courses C3,900–C7,500. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 8am–sunset.

Pretty Pots

The lack of any long-standing local arts and crafts tradition across Costa Rica is often lamented. One of the outstanding exceptions to this rule is the small village of Guaitíl, located on the outskirts of the provincial capital of Santa Cruz. The small central plaza—actually a soccer field—of this village is ringed with craft shops and artisan stands selling ceramic wares. Most are low-fired, relatively soft clay pieces, with traditional Chorotega indigenous design motifs. All of the local tour agencies offer day trips to Guaitíl, or you can drive there yourself, by heading first to Santa Cruz, and then taking the well-marked turnoff for Guaitíl, just south of the city, on the road to Nicoya.

PLAYA SÁMARA

35km (22 miles) S of Nicoya; 245km (152 miles) W of San José

Playa Sámara is a long, broad beach on a gently curved horseshoe-shape bay. Unlike most of the other beaches along this stretch of the Pacific coast, the water here is usually calm and perfect for swimming because an offshore island and rocky headlands break up most of the surf. Playa Sámara is popular both with Tico families seeking a quick and inexpensive getaway and with young Ticos looking to do some serious beach partying. On weekends, in particular, Sámara can get crowded and rowdy. Still, the calm waters and steep cliffs on the far side of the bay make this a very attractive spot, and the beach is so long that the crowds are usually well dispersed. Moreover, if you drive along the rugged coastal road in either direction, you’ll discover some truly spectacular and isolated beaches.

GETTING AROUND If you need a ride around Sámara, or to one of the nearby beaches, you can hire a taxi by calling Jorge ( 8830-3002). Rides in town should cost C1,000 to C2,000; rides to nearby beaches might run C5,000 to C15,000, depending upon the distance.

GETTING THERE & DEPARTING By Car: Head west out of San José on the San José–Caldera Highway (CR27). When you reach Caldera, follow the signs to Puntarenas and the Interamerican Highway (CR1). Forty-seven kilometers (29 miles) after you get on the Interamerican Highway heading north, you’ll see signs and the turnoff for La Amistad Bridge (CR18). After crossing the bridge, continue on CR18 until it hits CR21. Take this road north to Nicoya. Turn in to the town of Nicoya, and head more or less straight through town until you see signs for Playa Sámara. From here, it’s a well-marked and paved road (CR150) all the way to the beach.

To drive to Sámara from Liberia, head out of town on the main road to the Guanacaste beaches, passing through Filadelfia, Santa Cruz, and Nicoya. Once you reach Nicoya, follow the directions outlined above.

By Bus: Alfaro express buses ( 2222-2666; www.empresaalfaro.com) leave San José daily at noon from Avenida 5 between calles 14 and 16. The trip lasts 5 hours; the one-way fare is C4,350. Extra buses are sometimes added on weekends and during peak periods, so it’s always wise to check.

You can also take a bus from this same station to Nicoya and then catch a second bus from Nicoya to Sámara. Alfaro buses leave San José nearly every hour between 6am and 5pm. The fare is C4,950. The trip can take 4 to 5½ hours, depending if the bus goes via Liberia or La Amistad Bridge. The latter route is much faster and much more frequent. Empresa Rojas ( 2685-5032) buses leave Nicoya for Sámara and Carrillo regularly throughout the day, between 5am and 9pm. The trip’s duration is 1½ hours. The fare to Sámara is C1,200; the fare to Carrillo is C1,300.

An express bus to San José leaves daily at 4am. Buses for Nicoya leave throughout the day between 5am and 6pm. Buses leave Nicoya for San José nearly every hour between 3am and 5pm.

Interbus ( 4031-0888; www.interbusonline.com) has a daily bus that leaves San José for Playa Sámara at 8am. The fare is $47, and they will pick you up at most San José–area hotels.

VISITOR INFORMATION The website www.samarabeach.com is an excellent, all-around resource for information about Playa Sámara and the vicinity.

CITY LAYOUT Sámara is a busy little town at the bottom of a steep hill. The main road heads straight into town, passing the soccer field before coming to an end at the beach. Just before the beach is a road to the left that leads to most of the hotels listed below. This road also leads to Playa Carrillo (see below) and onward to the remote luxury resort Hotel Punta Islita. If you turn right 3 blocks before hitting the beach, you’ll hit the coastal road that goes to playas Buena Vista, Barrigona, and eventually Nosara.

FAST FACTS To reach the local police, dial 2656-0436. Sámara has a small medical clinic ( 2656-0166). A branch of Banco Nacional ( 2656-0089) is on the road to Playa Buena Vista, just as you head out of town. For full-service laundry, head to Green Life Laundry ( 2656-1051), about 3 blocks west of the Banco Nacional.

The Hideaway Hotel This two-story boutique hotel has the feel of a converted home. The guest rooms are all large, contemporary, and cool, featuring bold colors and pleasant design touches. There’s an inviting pool and well-kept gardens, and the food and service here are excellent. The hotel itself is set about a block or so inland from the far southern end of Playa Sámara.

MODERATE

Fenix Hotel These beachfront studio apartments are a great value. Set towards the middle section of the long, gentle Playa Sámara, they have a wonderful location—just a short walk from most of the restaurants, clubs, and downtown activity, and yet quiet and slightly removed. Set in a tight ring around the hotel’s small pool, each unit features a full kitchen. The beach is just steps away, and there’s a series of hammocks strung from coconut palms perfectly positioned right between the pool and sea. The owners are very hands-on and run a tight, yet friendly, ship.

Playa Sámara, Nicoya, Guanacaste. 2656-0158. www.fenixhotel.com. 6 units. $95–$145 double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. No credit cards. Amenities: Small outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

Playa Sámara, Nicoya, Guanacaste. 2656-1145. www.thehideawayplayasamara.com. 12 units. $99–$119 double. Rates include full breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Guanamar It helps to have a rental car if you’re staying here, but the ocean views and easy access to Playa Carrillo make this a great choice if you do. The best rooms are set into a steep hillside, with private, ocean-view balconies. The hotel’s main restaurant and pool are set on the property’s highest point, which also enjoys some fabulous vistas.

Learn the Language

If you want to acquire or polish some language skills while here, check in with the Sámara Language School ( 866/978-6813 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2656-0127 in Sámara; www.samaralanguageschool.com). These folks offer a range of programs and private lessons and can arrange for a homestay with a local family. The facility even features classes with ocean views, although that might be a detriment to your language learning.

Puerto Carrillo. 2656-0054. www.guanamarhotel.com. 37 units. $130–$150 double; $250 suite. Rates include full breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; large outdoor pool; room service; free Wi-Fi.

Sámara Tree House Inn This small hotel is set right on the sand in the heart of Playa Sámara. The four raised-stilt wooden cabins that give this place its name are set in a tight line facing the ocean. They boast wonderful views from their large sitting rooms, although the rest of the unit does feel a bit small and spartan by comparison, and there’s no air-conditioning. However, every unit here does come with a full kitchenette, and there’s a postage stamp–size pool at the center of the complex.

Playa Sámara, Guanacaste. 2656-0733. www.samaratreehouse.com. 6 units. $75–$165 double. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Jacuzzi; small outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

In addition to the place listed below, Tico Adventure Lodge ( 2656-0628; www.ticoadventurelodge.com) is another good option, about 2 blocks from the beach, in the heart of town.

Hotel Belvedere It’s a few blocks from the beach, but you can’t beat this German-run hotel for value and cleanliness. Rooms are actually housed in two separate complexes located across a dirt road from each other. Each complex has its own pool. Rooms in the newer section feature air-conditioning, coffee makers, and a mini-fridge.

Playa Sámara. 2656-0213. www.belvederesamara.net. 24 units. $60–$95 double. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Lounge; Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor pools; free Wi-Fi.

STEAK/GRILL El Lagarto A massive fire churns out a stream of hot coals to feed the large, long grill stations at this beachfront restaurant and bar. The setting is beautiful, with heavy wooden furniture set under tall trees and dim lighting. Grilled meats, seafood, and other goodies are the heart of the long menu here. Everything is served on huge, heavy crosscut blocks of wood, which adds to the rustic, homey vibe.

Sámara has numerous inexpensive sodas, and most of the hotels have their own restaurants. In addition to the places mentioned below, El Ancla ( 2656-0254), located a bit south of downtown, serves up good, simple meals, with an excellent view of the beach and waves.

On the beach, north end of Playa Sámara. 2656-0750. www.ellagartobbq.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$32. Daily 3–11pm.

ITALIAN/BISTRO Gusto Beach This simple, Italian-run restaurant is basically a beachfront trattoria—and then some. Three meals daily are served at a mix of tables, chairs, couches, and bar stools at high cocktail tables all set in the sand underneath coconut palms strung with rope lighting. You can get excellent pastas, panini, and thin-crust pizzas, as well as sushi, sashimi, and curries. There’s often live music or DJs. A sister restaurant, Gusto Creativo, fronts the soccer field in the center of town.

On the beach, north end of Playa Sámara. 2656-0252. Reservations recommended. Main courses C4,000–C10,500. Daily 9am–11pm.

Exploring Playa Sámara

Aside from sitting on the sand and soaking up the sun, the main activities in Playa Sámara seem to be hanging out in the bars and sodas and dancing into the early morning hours. But if you’re looking for something more, there’s horseback riding either on the beach or through the bordering pastureland and forests. Other options include surfing, sea kayaking in the calm waters off Playa Sámara, sportfishing, snorkeling, scuba diving, boat tours, mountain biking, and tours to Playa Ostional to see the mass nesting of olive ridley sea turtles. You can inquire about and book any of these tours at your hotel.

You’ll find that the beach is nicer and cleaner down at the south end. Better yet, head about 8km (5 miles) south to Playa Carrillo , a long crescent of soft, white sand. With almost no development, the beach here is nearly always deserted. Loads of palm trees provide shade. If you’ve got a good four-wheel-drive vehicle, ask for directions at your hotel and set off in search of the hidden gems of Playa Buena Vista and Playa Barrigona , which are north of Sámara, and less than a half-hour drive away.

All the hotels here can help you arrange any number of tour options, including horseback rides, boat trips, sea kayaking, scuba diving, and snorkeling outings. You might also contact Carrillo Adventures ( 2656-0380; www.carrilloadventures.com), an excellent all-around local tour company.

CANOPY TOURS The folks at Wingnuts Canopy Tours ( 2656-0153) offer zip-line and harness “canopy tours.” The 2-hour outing costs $60 per person or $40 for those under 18. If you want to repeat the adventure, these folks offer a 50-percent discount on your second tour. You’ll find their office by the giant strangler fig tree, or matapalo, toward the southern end of the beach.

SPORT FISHING Almost every hotel in the area can arrange sportfishing trips, or contact Kingfisher ( 2656-0091; www.costaricabillfishing.com). Rates run from $300 to $800 for a half-day and $700 to $1,400 for a full-day outing.

SURFING To learn how to surf or to rent a board, check in with C&C Surf Shop and School ( 8640-7105; http://cncsurfsamara.webs.com) or Choco’s Surf School ( 8937-5246; www.chocossurfschool.com). Surfboard rentals run around $12 to $15 per day. Private lessons cost $30 to $50 per hour.

WILDLIFE-VIEWING Located near Barra Honda National Park (see below), Rancho Humo ( 2233-2233; www.ranchohumo.com) is a private wildlife reserve that offers fabulous bird-watching and wildlife-viewing opportunities along the Tempisque River basin and surrounding wetlands. The area is rich in water bird species, shore lizards, and crocodiles. A full-day tour ($95) here includes a river boat trip, a tour of the reeds and lowland forest in a motorized, safari-style vehicle, and a tour of the neighboring cattle ranching operations, as well as lunch. Transportation can be provided, and you can choose a half-day tour that takes in only one or two of the elements of the full-day tour.

Going Down Under

Spelunkers will want to head 62km (38 miles) northeast of Playa Sámara on the road to La Amistad Bridge. If you don’t have a car, your best bet is to get to Nicoya, which is about a half-hour away by bus, and then take a taxi to the park, which should cost about $20. Here, at Barra Honda National Park ( 2659-1551 or 2685-5267), is an extensive system of caves, some of which reach more than 200m (650 ft.) in depth. Human remains and indigenous relics have been found in other caves, but those are not open to the public. The park is open daily from 8am to 5pm; admission is $10.

If you plan to descend the one publicly accessible cave, you’ll need to hire a local guide at the park entrance station. These guides are always available, and will provide harnesses, helmets, and flashlights. Depending upon your group size and bargaining abilities, expect to pay between $20 to $40 per person for a visit to the Terciopelo Cave, including the guide, harness, helmet, and flashlight. Furthermore, the cave is open only during the dry season (mid-Nov to Apr). You begin the roughly 3-hour tour with a descent of 19m (62 ft.) straight down a wooden ladder with a safety rope attached. Inside you’ll see plenty of impressive stalactites and stalagmites while visiting several chambers of varying sizes. Even if you don’t descend, the trails around Barra Honda and its prominent limestone plateau are great for hiking and bird-watching. Be sure to make a stop at La Cascada, a gentle waterfall that fills and passes through a series of calcium and limestone pools, some of them large enough to bathe in. The entire operation is slightly reminiscent of Ocho Rios in Jamaica.

As is the case in Malpaís, Playa Nosara is a bucket term used to refer to several neighboring beaches, spread along an isolated stretch of coast. In addition to the namesake beach, Playa Guiones, Playa Pelada, Playa Garza, and (sometimes) Playa Ostional are also lumped into this area. In fact, the village of Nosara itself is several kilometers inland from the beach. Playa Nosara marks the northern limit of the Nicoya Peninsula.

After dark the most happening place in town is Bar Arriba ( 2656-0487 or 8996-3954), a second-floor affair with a contemporary vibe a couple of blocks inland from the beach on the main road into town. You might also check out what’s going on at Gusto Beach (see above), La Vela Latina ( 2656-2286), or Tabanuco ( 2656-1056), all on the beach or fronting the water, right near the center of the action, on the main road running parallel to the beach off the center of town.

PLAYA NOSARA

55km (34 miles) SW of Nicoya; 266km (165 miles) W of San José

Playa Guiones is one of Costa Rica’s most dependable beach breaks, and surfers come here in good numbers throughout the year. However, the waves are still much less crowded than you would find in and around Tamarindo.

The best way to get to Nosara is to fly, but, with everything so spread out, that makes getting around difficult after you’ve arrived. The roads to, in, and around Nosara are almost always in very rough shape, and there’s little sign that this will improve anytime soon.

VILLAGE LAYOUT The village of Nosara is about 5km (3 miles) inland from the beach. The small airstrip runs pretty much through the center of town; however, most hotels listed here are on or near the beach itself.

It’s usually about a 5- to 10-minute drive from the airport to most hotels. Taxis wait for every arrival, and fares range between C3,000 and C6,000 to most hotels in Nosara.

By Car: Follow the directions for getting to Playa Sámara (see “Playa Sámara,” earlier in this chapter), but watch for a well-marked fork in the road a few kilometers before you reach that beach. The right-hand fork leads to Nosara over another 22km (14 miles) of rough dirt road.

By Bus: An Alfaro express bus ( 2222-2666 in San José, or 2282-0371 in Nosara; www.empresaalfaro.com) leaves San José daily at 5:30am from Avenida 5 between calles 14 and 16. The trip’s duration is 5½ hours; the one-way fare is C5,200.

You can also take an Alfaro bus from San José to Nicoya and then catch a second bus from Nicoya to Nosara. Alfaro buses leave San José nearly every hour between 6am and 5pm. The fare is C4,950. The trip can take between 4 and 5½ hours, depending on whether the bus goes via Liberia or La Amistad Bridge. The latter route is much faster and much more frequent. Empresa Rojas buses ( 2685-5352) leave Nicoya for Nosara daily at 4:45 and 10am, noon, and 3 and 5:30pm. The trip is about 2 hours, and the one-way fare is C1,500.

A direct Alfaro bus to San José leaves daily at 12:45pm. Buses to Nicoya leave Nosara daily at 4:45 and 10am, noon, and 3 and 5:30pm. Buses leave Nicoya for San José nearly every hour between 3am and 5pm.

GETTING AROUND If you want to rent a car, both Economy ( 877/326-7368 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2299-2000 in Costa Rica; www.economyrentacar.com) and National ( 2682-0052; www.natcar.com) have offices here. Because demand often outstrips supply, I recommend you reserve a car in advance. Alternatively, you can rent an ATV from several operators around town, including Iguana Expeditions (see below) and Boca Nosara Tours (see below). If you need a taxi, call Taxi Freddy ( 2682-0442) or Gypsy Cab Company ( 8302-1903; www.nosaracab.com).

This area was originally conceived and zoned as a primarily residential community. The maze of dirt roads and lack of any single defining thoroughfare can be confusing for first-time visitors. Luckily, a host of hotel and restaurant signs spread around the area help point lost travelers in the direction of their final destination.

FAST FACTS You’ll find the post office and police station ( 2682-1130) right at the end of the airstrip. An EBAIS medical clinic ( 2682-0266) and a couple of pharmacies are in the village as well. Both Banco Popular and Banco Nacional have offices in Nosara with ATMs. There’s even a tiny strip mall at the crossroads to Playa Guiones.

You’ll find Internet cafe in the village across from the airstrip, and others at Café de Paris and the Frog Pad ( 2682-4039)

The Harmony Hotel & Spa With an enviable setting right on Playa Guiones, this is by far the best hotel option in Nosara. The “Coco” rooms are all spacious, with queen-size beds and a private, enclosed garden deck area featuring an outdoor shower with massive rainwater-style shower head. The bungalows are even larger, with king beds. A short path leads to the beach, and the hotel has a shower and fresh towels for guests right where the property lets out on to the beach. There’s an excellent onsite spa and yoga facility, and the restaurant serves top-notch local fare and healthful spa cuisine. This hotel was awarded “5 Leaves” from the CST Sustainable Tourism program, thanks to a comprehensive commitment to environmental protection, social responsibility, and other sustainable practices.

In addition to the places listed below, the Nosara Beach House ( 2682-0019; www.thenosarabeachhouse.com), on Playa Guiones, has clean, comfortable rooms and a swimming pool—and it’s right on the beach, to boot. For an intimate option that’s also a very good deal, check out the Nosara B&B ( 2682-0209; www.nosarabandb.net).

EXPENSIVE

Playa Guiones. 2682-4114. www.harmonynosara.com. 24 units. $200–$300 double; $270–$370 bungalow; $490–$590 2-bedroom bungalow. Rates include breakfast and 1 yoga class. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary use of bikes; midsize outdoor pool; spa; lighted tennis court; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi.

MODERATE

Harbor Reef Surf Resort This sprawling miniresort features a mix of rooms and suites at excellent prices, and is quite popular with the surf crowd. All of the rooms are spacious and clean, if on the spartan side. Some of the suites come with full kitchens, and these folks also rent out several fully equipped houses for longer stays. The grounds feature tall trees and lush gardens and two swimming pools. Hammocks are strung from some of those tall trees. The beach and popular surf break at Playa Guiones is about a 3-minute walk away.

Playa Guiones. 2682-1000. www.harborreef.com. 21 units. $110–$155 double; $145–$250 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; 2 small outdoor pools; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

In addition to the places mentioned below, Kaya Sol ( 2682-1459; www.nosarahotelkayasol.com) is a popular budget option and surfer hangout.

The Gilded Iguana Located in the heart of Playa Guiones, about 200m (600 ft.) inland from the beach, this place features a mix of rooms, a refreshing kidney-shape pool, and one of the best restaurant and bar scenes in the area (see below). The most economical rooms here are simple and road-worn. I think it’s worth a splurge for the newer rooms with air-conditioning. The downside to the restaurant and bar’s popularity is that it can be noisy here, especially when there’s a live band or major sporting event going on.

Playa Guiones. 2682-0450. www.thegildediguana.com. 12 units. $50–$60 double; $75–$95 suite. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; midsize outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

Lagarta Lodge Geared slightly more to nature lovers than surfers, this small lodge sits on a high hilltop overlooking the Nosara River. Rooms are simple, but clean and cozy. Some of the rooms, as well as the small restaurant here, enjoy fabulous views over the river and rainforests and beyond to the long stretch of Ostional beach in the distance. It’s only a 10- to 15-minute jaunt down to the beach, but it’s a pretty steep and strenuous hike back up to the hotel. The owners of this hotel own 35 hectares (86 acres) of land bordering the Nosara River, which they’ve converted into a private reserve. Guests here get unlimited access to the trails of the reserve, which pass through tropical lowland rainforests and mangrove forests.

Playa Nosara. 2682-0035. www.lagarta.com. 12 units. $55–$150 double. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; midsize outdoor pool; Wi-Fi.

BAKERY/BISTRO Café de Paris I like to stop here for a freshly baked croissant and cup of coffee before an early morning surf session—and I often return for a full breakfast afterwards. But it’s also worthwhile for lunch (think burgers, nachos, or wraps) or dinner—both the steak au poivre and fish curry are excellent. A pool and children’s play set just off the main dining area make this a good choice for families with young kids. It’s located right at the main crossroads for access to Playa Guiones.

In addition to the places mentioned below, Marlin Bill’s ( 2682-0458) is a popular and massive open-air haunt on the hillside on the main road, just across from Café de Paris (see below). You can expect to get good, fresh seafood and American classics here. For Mexican food, try Pancho’s ( 2682-0591). For Italian, La Dolce Vita ( 2682-0107), on the outskirts of town on the road to Playa Sámara, serves up good Italian fare nightly.

If you’re looking to beat the heat, head to Robin’s Ice Cream ( 2682-0617; www.robinsicecream.com) for some homemade ice cream. This popular place also serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

On the main road into Nosara. 2682-1036. www.cafedeparis.net. Main courses C3,500– C12,000. Daily 7am–11pm.

SEAFOOD/GRILL The Gilded Iguana With excellent food and fresh fish perfectly prepared, this casual, open-air spot is one of the most popular in the Nosara area. The food here is bar-food-plus, with all the regular bar-food staples you’d expect—burgers, nachos, quesadillas, fajitas, and wings—as well as more substantial (chicken Parmesan) or eclectic (Thai shrimp) fare. The menu also features vegetarian, gluten-free, and low-calorie options. There’s live music here Tuesdays and Fridays.

About 90m (295 ft.) inland from the beach at Playa Guiones. 2682-0259. www.thegildediguana.com. Main courses C3,500–C9,000. Daily 7:30am–9:30pm.

INTERNATIONAL La Luna This funky, oceanfront bistro enjoys the best setting of any restaurant in Nosara. Enjoying a grassy perch right above Playa Pelada, you can watch surfers just below from one of the outdoor tables. This is also a great place to catch the sunset. Wood oven-fired pizzas and Mediterranean fare are the specialties here, but nightly chalkboard specials might feature anything from pad Thai to chicken curry. Start things off with the feta quinoa salad, fresh ceviche, or some tuna tartare. For lunch, I really like their fish tacos.

Playa Pelada. 2682-0122. Main courses C3,500–C16,000. No credit cards. Daily 11am–11pm.

Exploring Playa Nosara

Among the several beaches at Nosara are the long, curving Playa Guiones , Playa Nosara , and the diminutive Playa Pelada . Because the village of Nosara is several miles inland, these beaches tend to be clean, secluded, and quiet. Surfing and bodysurfing are good here, particularly at Playa Guiones, which is garnering quite a reputation as a consistent and rideable beach break. Pelada is a short, white-sand beach with three deep scallops, backed by sea grasses and mangroves. There isn’t too much sand at high tide, so you’ll want to hit the beach when the tide’s out. At either end of the beach, rocky outcroppings reveal tide pools at low tide.

When the seas are calm, you can do some decent snorkeling around the rocks and reefs just offshore. Masks, snorkels, and fins can be rented at Café de Paris or Coconut Harry’s (see below). Bird-watchers should explore the mangrove swamps around the estuary mouth of the Río Nosara. Just walk north from Playa Pelada and follow the riverbank to explore the paths into the mangroves. In addition to numerous water, shore, and sea-bird species, you’re apt to spot a range of hawks and other raptors, as well as toucans and several parrot species.

FISHING All the hotels in the area can arrange fishing charters for $200 to $500 for a half-day, or $400 to $1,200 for a full day. These rates are for one to four people and vary according to boat size and accouterments.

HIKING & WILDLIFE-VIEWING Located on land surrounding the Nosara River mouth, the Nosara Biological Reserve ( 2682-0035; www.lagarta.com) features a network of trails and raised walkways through tropical transitional forests and mangrove swamps. More than 270 species of birds have been spotted here. This private reserve is owned and managed by the folks at the Lagarta Lodge (see below), and the trails start right at the hotel. Admission is $6. Guided tours and guided boat tours are also available.

HORSEBACK-RIDING & QUAD TOURS The folks at Boca Nosara Tours ( 2682-0280; www.bocanosaratours.com) have a large stable of well-cared-for horses and a range of beach, jungle, and waterfall rides to choose from. They also run similar tours on motorized off-road quads. Rates run between $50 and $90 per person, depending on the size of your group and the length of the tour.

KAYAK TOURS Based out of the Gilded Iguana hotel and restaurant, Iguana Expeditions ( 2682-4089; www.iguanaexpeditions.com) offers a range of full-and half-day tours around the area. Explore the inland coastal mangroves by kayak ($50) or hike to a stunning waterfall ($25). These folks can also arrange inexpensive fishing outings in a panga (small craft) with a local fisherman.

SEA TURTLE–WATCHING If you time your trip right, you can do a night tour to nearby Playa Ostional to watch nesting olive ridley sea turtles. These turtles come ashore by the thousands in a mass egg-laying phenomenon known as an “arribada.” The arribadas are so difficult to predict that no one runs regularly scheduled turtle-viewing trips, but when the arribada is in full swing, several local guides and agencies offer tours. These arribadas take place 4 to 10 times between July and December; each occurrence lasts between 3 and 10 days. Consider yourself very lucky if you happen to be around during this fascinating natural phenomenon. Your best bet is to ask the staff at your hotel or check in with Iguana Expeditions ( 2682-4089; www.iguanaexpeditions.com). Tours are generally run at night, but because the turtles come ashore in such numbers, you can sometimes catch them in the early morning light as well. Even if it’s not turtle-nesting season, you might want to look into visiting Playa Ostional just to have a long, wide expanse of beach to yourself. However, be careful swimming here because the surf and riptides can be formidable. During the dry season (mid-Nov to Apr), you can usually get here in a regular car, but during the rainy season you’ll need four-wheel-drive. This beach is part of Ostional National Wildlife Refuge ( 2682-0428). At the northwest end of the refuge is India Point, which is known for its tide pools and rocky outcrops.

SURFING With miles of excellent beach breaks and relatively few crowds, this is a great place to surf or learn how to surf. If you want to try to stand up for your first time, check in with the folks at Coconut Harry’s Surf Shop ( 2682-0574; www.coconutharrys.com), Del Mar Surf Camp ( 855/833-5627 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2682-1433 in Costa Rica; www.delmarsurfcamp.com), or Safari Surf School ( 866/433-3355 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2682-0874 in Costa Rica; www.safarisurfschool.com). All of the above offer hourly solo or group lessons, multiday packages with accommodations and meals included, and board rental.

YOGA & MORE If you want to spend some time getting your mind and body together, check in with the Nosara Yoga Institute ( 866/439-4704 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2682-0071 in Costa Rica; www.nosarayoga.com), an internationally recognized retreat and teacher training center. The institute offers intensive and daily yoga classes, teacher trainings, and a host of custom-designed “retreat” options. Their daily 90-minute classes are open to the public and cost just $10 (loaner mat included).

Check the Harmony Hotel & Spa Click here for page for more yoga options.

For decades, this remote village and its surrounding beaches, forests, and waterfalls have enjoyed near-legendary status among backpackers, UFO seekers, hippie expatriates, and European budget travelers. Although it maintains its alternative vibe, Montezuma is a great destination for all manner of travelers looking for a beach retreat surrounded by some stunning scenery. Active pursuits abound, from hiking in the Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve to horseback riding to visiting a beachside waterfall. The natural beauty, miles of almost abandoned beaches, rich wildlife, and jungle waterfalls here are what first made Montezuma famous, and they continue to make this one of my favorite beach towns in Costa Rica.

When evening rolls around, don’t expect a major party scene. Kaya Sol ( 2682-1459) has a lounge-style scene popular with surfers, and Casa Tucán ( 2682-0113) and Gilded Iguana (see above) often have live music. In “downtown” Nosara, you’ll probably want to check out either the Tropicana ( 2682-0140), the town’s long-standing local disco, or the Legends Bar ( 2682-0184), an American–style bar with big-screen TVs and pool and foosball tables.

North of Nosara

Just north of Nosara lies Playa Ostional, famous for its massive nestings of olive ridley sea turtles (see above). This is a very underdeveloped beach village and there are only a few hotels. The best of these is Hotel Luna Azul ( 2682-1400; www.hotellunaazul.com), which features beautiful individual bungalows and a great view of the ocean—although the beach is a good distance away. If you come to Ostional to surf, try the Ostional Turtle Lodge ( 2682-0131; www.surfingostional.com), a basic hostel-type affair right on the beach near the center of the village.

PLAYA MONTEZUMA

166–184km (103–114 miles) W of San José (not including the ferry ride); 36km (22 miles) SE of Paquera; 54km (33 miles) S of Naranjo

CITY LAYOUT As the winding mountain road that descends into Montezuma bottoms out, you turn left onto a small dirt road that defines the village proper. On this 1-block road, you will find El Sano Banano Village Cafe and, across from it, a small shady park with plenty of tall trees, as well as a basketball court and children’s playground. The bus stops at the end of this road. From here, hotels are scattered up and down the beach and around the village’s few sand streets.

Yo Quiero Hablar Español

You can brush up on or start up your Spanish at the Rey de Nosara Language School ( 2682-0215; www.reydenosara.itgo.com), which offers group and private lessons according to demand and can coordinate week- or multiweek-long packages.

Some of the hotels listed below might pick you up in Tambor for a reasonable fee. If not, you’ll have to hire a taxi, which could cost anywhere between $20 and $30. Taxis are generally waiting to meet most regularly scheduled planes, but if they aren’t, you can call Gilberto ( 2642-0241 or 8826-9055).

By Car: The traditional route here is to first drive to Puntarenas and catch the ferry to Paquera. Montezuma is about 30 minutes south of Tambor, 1 hour south of Paquera.

Naviera Tambor ( 2661-2084; www.navieratambor.com) car ferries to Paquera leave Puntarenas roughly every 2 to 3 hours daily between 9am and 8:30pm, with one early trip at 5am. The trip takes 1½ hours. The fare is C11,400 per car, including the driver; C810 for each additional adult, and C485 for children. I recommend arriving early during the peak season and on weekends because lines can be long; if you miss the ferry, you’ll have to wait 2 hours or more for the next one. Moreover, the ferry schedule changes frequently, with fewer ferries during the low season, and the occasional extra ferry added during the high season to meet demand. It’s always best to check in advance.

The car ferry from Paquera to Puntarenas leaves roughly every 2 to 3 hours between 6am and 8pm. Note: If you have to wait for the ferry, do not leave your car unattended, as break-ins are common here.

Another option is to drive via La Amistad Bridge over the Tempisque River. I recommend this route only when the ferries are on the fritz, or when the wait for the next car ferry is over 3 hours. (When the lines are long, you may not find room on the next departing ferry.) Although heading farther north and crossing the bridge is more circuitous, you will be driving the whole time, which beats waiting around in the midday heat of Puntarenas. To go this route, take the Interamerican Highway west from San José. Forty-seven kilometers (29 miles) past the turnoff for Puntarenas, turn left for La Amistad Bridge. After you cross the Tempisque River, head to Quebrada Honda and then south to Route 21, following signs for San Pablo, Jicaral, Lepanto, Playa Naranjo, and Paquera.

To drive to Montezuma from Liberia, head out of town on the main road to the Guanacaste beaches, passing through Filadelfia, Santa Cruz, and Nicoya on your way toward the turnoff for La Amistad Bridge. Continue straight at this turnoff, and follow the directions for this route as listed above.

By Bus & Ferry: Transportes Cobano ( 2221-7479) runs two daily direct buses between San José and Montezuma. The buses leave from the Coca-Cola bus terminal at Calle 12 and Avenida 5 at 6am and 2pm. The fare is C7,250, including the ferry ride, and the trip takes a little over 5 hours.

Alternatively, it takes two buses and a ferry ride to get to Montezuma. Empresarios Unidos Puntarenas express buses ( 2222-0064) to Puntarenas leave San José daily every hour between 6am and 7pm from Calle 16 and Avenida 12. The trip takes 2 hours; the fare is C2,950. From Puntarenas, you can take the ferry to Paquera (see above). A bus south to Montezuma will be waiting to meet the ferry when it arrives in Paquera. The bus ride takes about 55 minutes; the fare is C2,250. Be careful not to take the Naranjo ferry because it does not meet with regular onward bus transportation to Montezuma.

A Time-Saving Route

By far the fastest route is the daily speedboat shuttle between Montezuma and Jacó (actually Playa Herradura). This 1-hour shuttle departs Montezuma for Playa Herradura at 9am and makes the return trip from Playa Herradura to Montezuma at 11am. The folks at CocoZuma Traveller ( 2642-0911; www.cocozuma.com) can help book this, including connecting shared shuttle service to or from San Jose, Manuel Antonio, Malpaís and other destinations. The boat shuttle itself is $40 per person, one-way.

Buses are met by hordes of locals trying to corral you to one of the many budget hotels. Remember, they are getting a commission for everybody they bring in, so their information is biased. Not only that, but they are also often flat-out lying when they tell you the hotel you wanted to stay in is full.

When you’re ready to head back, direct buses leave Montezuma daily at 5:30am and 2:30pm. Regular local buses to Paquera leave Cóbano roughly every 2 hours throughout the day starting around 4:45am. Buses to San José leave Puntarenas daily every hour between 6am and 7pm.

Around the center of town are several tour agencies and Internet cafes among the restaurants and souvenir stores.

Amor de Mar This has long been one of my favorite hotels in Montezuma. With simple rooms spread throughout a two-story wooden building, the real draw here is the setting. A large grass lawn leads from the main building down to the sea, where a coral and rock outcropping forms a swimming pool–size tide pool at high tide. The best rooms are on the second floor with either private or shared oceanview balconies; two fully equipped vacation homes on the adjacent property are available for rent.

EXPENSIVE

Ylang Ylang Beach Resort This small rainforest resort does an excellent job of blending tropical fantasy with some lovely perks and hints of luxury. The whole complex is set just off the beach in a dense patch of forest and flowering gardens. Lodging options range from glamping-style tent cabins to individual bungalows and geodesic domes. There are no roads, nor regular vehicular access to the resort, so check-in is done at the sister El Sano Banano Village Cafe (see below) in the town, and you and your bags are shuttled in via Jeep or dune buggy. The owners, Lenny and Patricia, have been here for decades and have done much to promote and protect the area.

Montezuma, Cóbano de Puntarenas. 888/795-8494 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2642-0636 in Costa Rica. www.ylangylangresort.com. 21 units. $140–$365 double. Rates include breakfast and dinner. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; midsize outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

MODERATE

Montezuma, Cóbano de Puntarenas. 2642-0262. www.amordemar.com. 11 units. $80–$150 double; $200–$250 house. Amenities: Restaurant.

INEXPENSIVE

The folks at Ylang Ylang (see above) also run the in-town El Sano Banano B&B ( 888/795-8494 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2642-0636 in Costa Rica; www.elbanano.com), just off their popular restaurant (see below). The rooms here feature air-conditioning (which, because of the design, you are basically forced to use) and satellite televisions. Double rooms are $65 to $95.

Hotel La Aurora Located right at the entrance to the village, this three-story budget hotel gives you clean and spacious rooms at a great price. The best rooms have air-conditioning and private balconies. A friendly, hostel-like vibe pervades the whole operation. There’s a communal kitchen that gets a lot of use, and several common areas. La Aurora was one of the first hotels built in Montezuma, but has enjoyed steady maintenance and occasional renovations, keeping everything very tidy and up-to-date.

Montezuma, Cóbano de Puntarenas. 2642-0051. www.hotelaurora-montezuma.com. 18 units. $40–$60 double. Rates include taxes. Amenities: Lounge; communal kitchen; free Wi-Fi.

INTERNATIONAL/VEGETARIAN El Sano Banano Village Cafe This is one of Montezuma’s main social hubs. People come for it all: the tasty food, refreshing smoothies, lively bar scene, and nightly movies. The menu is heavy on healthful vegetarian and vegan fare, but you can also get fish and chicken plates. Fresh ceviche is often on the menu, and the seafood quesadilla is delicious. The nightly movie begins promptly at 7:30pm, and there’s a $6 minimum charge.

In addition to the places listed below, you’ll find several basic sodas and casual restaurants right in the village. You might also want to check out the varied international fare at Cocolores ( 2642-0348). Just outside of downtown proper, the Israeli-owned Puggo’s ( 2642-0325) serves up an eclectic menu that ranges from falafel to ceviche to focaccia and beyond.

For breakfast, coffee, and light meals, Orgánico ( 2642-1322) is a good option, with a range of healthful sandwiches, daily specials, and freshly baked goods. The Bakery Café ( 2642-0458) is another good choice, serving everything from gourmet coffee drinks to full meals from their massive menu.

Finally, the restaurant at Ylang Ylang Beach Resort (see above) is excellent.

On the main road into the village. 2642-0944. Main courses $6–$15. Daily 6am–10pm.

ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Playa de los Artistas This is my favorite restaurant in Montezuma. A few tables are spread around a backyard and patio and on to the sand just steps away from the waves. Candles and dim lighting give the place a very romantic vibe. The menu changes nightly, but you can count on a range of fresh fish carpaccio and thin-crust pizzas. The outdoor wood-fired oven and open-air grill turn out perfectly prepared fresh fish and seafood dishes, served on freshly cut banana leaves draped over thick, wooden plates.

Across from Hotel Los Mangos. 2642-0920. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$24. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 10:30am–9:30pm.

Exploring Montezuma

The ocean here is a gorgeous royal blue, and beautiful beaches stretch out along the coast on either side of town. Be careful, though: The waves can occasionally be too rough for casual swimming, and you need to be aware of stray rocks at your feet. Be sure you know where the rocks and tide are before doing any bodysurfing. Given the prevailing currents and winds here, Montezuma also has experienced several severe and long-lasting red tide episodes in recent years. During these periods of massive algae bloom, the ocean is reddish-brown in color and not recommended for swimming.

The best places to swim are a couple of hundred meters north of town in front of El Rincón de los Monos, or several kilometers farther north at Playa Grande.

If you’re interested in more than simple beach time, head for the Montezuma Waterfall just south of town—it’s one of those tropical fantasies where water comes pouring down into a deep pool. It’s a popular spot, and it’s a bit of a hike up the stream. Along this stream are a couple of waterfalls, but the upper falls are by far the more spectacular. You’ll find the trail to the falls just over the bridge south of the village (on your right just past Las Cascadas restaurant). At the first major outcropping of rocks, the trail disappears and you have to scramble up the rocks and river for a bit. A trail occasionally reappears for short stretches. Just stick close to the stream and you’ll eventually hit the falls.

Note: Be very careful when climbing close to the rushing water, and also if you plan on taking any dives into the pools below. The rocks are quite slippery, and several people each year get very scraped up, break bones, and otherwise hurt themselves here.

A range of guided tour and adventure options is available in Montezuma. CocoZuma Traveller ( 2642-0911; www.cocozuma.com) and Sun Trails ( 2642-0808; www.montezumatraveladventures.com) can both arrange horseback riding, boat excursions, scuba-dive and snorkel tours, ATV outings, and rafting trips; car and motorcycle rentals; airport transfers; international phone, fax, and Internet service; and currency exchange.

A UNIQUE CANOPY TOUR One popular tour option here is the Waterfall Canopy Tour ( 2642-0808; www.montezumatraveladventures.com), which is built right alongside Montezuma’s famous falls. The tour, which features eight cables connecting 10 platforms, includes a swim at the foot of the falls and costs $40 per person. Tours are offered daily at 9am and 1 and 3pm.

HORSEBACK RIDING Several people around the village will rent you horses for around $10 to $20 an hour, although most visitors choose to do a guided 4-hour horseback tour for $30 to $50. Any of the hotels or tour agencies in town can arrange it for you, or you can contact El Pinto Expeditions ( 8849-8569). However, you’ll find the best-cared-for and best-kept horses at Finca Los Caballos ( 2642-0124; www.naturelodge.net), which is up the hill on the road leading into Montezuma.

OTHER ACTIVITIES Some shops in the center of the village rent bicycles by the day or hour, as well as boogie boards and snorkeling equipment (although the water must be very calm for snorkeling).

You’ll encounter plenty of simple souvenir stores, as well as itinerant artisans selling their wares on the street, but it’s worth stopping in at Piedra Colorado ( 2642-0612) to check out their impressive silver, stone, and polished-shell creations. This place is located in the tiny strip mall in the center of Montezuma.

An Excursion to Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve

As beautiful as the beaches around Montezuma are, the beaches at Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve ( 2642-0093), 11km (6¾ miles) south of the village, are even more stunning. At the southernmost tip of the Nicoya Peninsula, Cabo Blanco is a national park that preserves a nesting site for brown pelicans, magnificent frigate birds, and brown boobies. The beaches are backed by a lush tropical forest that is home to howler monkeys. The main trail here, Sendero Sueco (Swiss Trail), is a rugged and sometimes steep hike through thick rainforest. The trail leads to the beautiful Playa Balsita and Playa Cabo Blanco, two white-sand stretches that straddle either side of the namesake Cabo Blanco point. The beaches are connected by a short trail. It’s 4km (2.5 miles) to Playa Balsita. Alternatively, you can take a shorter 2km (1.25-mile) loop trail through the primary forest here. This is Costa Rica’s oldest official bioreserve and was set up thanks to the pioneering efforts of conservationists Karen Mogensen and Nicholas Wessberg. Admission is $10; the reserve is open Wednesday through Sunday from 8am to 4pm.

On your way out to Cabo Blanco, you’ll pass through the tiny village of Cabuya. There are a couple of private patches of beach to discover in this area, off some of the deserted dirt roads, and a small offshore island serves as the town’s picturesque cemetery. Snorkel and kayak trips to this island are offered out of Montezuma.

Shuttle buses head from Montezuma to Cabo Blanco roughly every 2 hours beginning at 8am, and then turn around and bring folks from Cabo Blanco to Montezuma; the last one leaves Cabo Blanco around 5pm. The fare is $3 each way. These shuttles often don’t run during the off season. You could also share a taxi: The fare is around $15 to $25 per taxi, which can hold four or five passengers. Taxis tend to hang around Montezuma center. One dependable taxista is Gilberto Rodríguez ( 2642-0241 or 8826-9055).

MALPAÍS & SANTA TERESA

The local after dark action seems to base itself either at Chico’s Bar ( 2642-0526) or the bar at Hotel Moctezuma ( 2642-0058; www.hotelmoctezuma.com). Both are located on the main strip in town facing the water. If your evening tastes are mellower, El Sano Banano Village Cafe (see above) doubles as the local movie house, with nightly late-run features projected on a large screen.

150km (93 miles) W of San José; 12km (7½ miles) S of Cóbano

Malpaís (or Mal País) translates as “badlands,” and, while this may have been an apt moniker several years ago, it no longer accurately describes this booming beach area. Malpaís is often used to refer to a string of neighboring beaches running from south to north, and including Malpaís, Playa Carmen, Santa Teresa, Playa Hermosa, and Playa Manzanillo. These beaches are long, wide expanses of light sand dotted with rocky outcroppings. This is one of Costa Rica’s hottest spots, and development is ongoing here, especially in Santa Teresa. Still, it will take quite some time before this place is anything like more developed destinations of Jacó, Tamarindo, or Manuel Antonio. In Malpaís and Santa Teresa, you’ll find a mix of beach hotels and resorts, restaurants, shops, and private houses, as well as miles of often deserted beach, and easy access to some nice jungle.

ORIENTATION Malpaís and Santa Teresa are two tiny beach villages. As you reach the ocean, the road forks: Playa Carmen is straight ahead, Malpaís is to your left, and Santa Teresa is to your right. If you continue beyond Santa Teresa, you’ll come to the even-more-deserted beaches of playas Hermosa and Manzanillo (not to be confused with beaches of the same names to be found elsewhere in the country). To get to playas Hermosa and Manzanillo, you have to ford a couple of rivers, which can be tricky during parts of the rainy season.

GETTING THERE & DEPARTING By Plane: Sansa (877/767-2672 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2290-4100 in Costa Rica; www.flysansa.com) and Nature Air ( 800/235-9272 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2299-6000; www.natureair.com) both have several flights daily to a small airstrip in Tambor airport (TMU; no phone), which is 17km (11 miles) from Montezuma. The flight duration is around 30 minutes, and fares range from $90 to $110, one-way. Some of the hotels listed below might be willing to pick you up in Tambor for a reasonable fee. If not, you’ll have to hire a taxi, which will cost between $50 and $70. Taxis are generally waiting to meet most regularly scheduled planes, but if they aren’t, you can call Miguel ( 8367-4638 or 2640-0261) or Richard ( 8317-7614 or 2640-0003) for a cab.

By Car: Follow the directions above to Montezuma (see “Playa Montezuma,” earlier in this chapter). At Cóbano, follow the signs to Malpaís and Playa Santa Teresa. It’s another 12km (7½ miles) down a rough dirt road that requires four-wheel-drive much of the year, especially during the rainy season.

To drive to Malpaís from Liberia, head out of town on the main road to the Guanacaste beaches, passing through Filadelfia, Santa Cruz, and Nicoya on your way toward the turnoff for La Amistad Bridge. Continue straight at this turnoff, and follow the directions for this route as listed above.

By Bus & Ferry: Transportes Cobano ( 2221-7479) has two daily buses from San José’s Coca-Cola bus station to Malpaís and Santa Teresa. The buses leave at 6am and 2pm, and the fare is C7,500, including the ferry passage. The ride takes around 6 hours. The return buses leave Santa Teresa at 5:15am and 2pm.

Alternatively, you can follow the directions above for getting to Montezuma, but get off in Cóbano. From Cóbano, there are daily buses for Malpaís and Santa Teresa at 10:30am and 2:30pm. The fare is C1,200. Buses return daily to Cóbano at 7 and 11:30am and 3:30pm. Be forewarned: These bus schedules are subject to change according to demand, road conditions, and the whim of the bus company.

If you miss the bus connection in Cóbano, you can hire a cab to Malpaís for around $25 to $35.

GETTING AROUND If you need a taxi, call Miguel ( 8819-9021 or 2640-0261) or Richard ( 8317-7614 or 2640-0003). If you want to do the driving yourself, you can contact the local offices of Alamo ( 2640-0526; www.alamocostarica.com) or Budget Rent A Car ( 2640-0500; www.budget.co.cr). Or you can head to Quads Rental Center ( 2640-0178), which has a large stock of ATVs.

Florblanca Resort This is the premier boutique luxury beach resort in this area, which is saying a lot. A collection of massive private villas are spread around lush and exuberant gardens. The best units here have ocean views. All feature plenty of living space, and large, open-air bathrooms with outdoor showers and tubs. There’s a gorgeous full-service spa; a large, two-tier swimming pool; and spacious wood-floored yoga studio with regular classes and workshops. The restaurant here is also excellent.

EXPENSIVE

In addition to the places listed below, Latitude 10 ( 8309-2943; www.latitude10resort.com) is a lovely, boutique beachfront resort, while Casa Chameleon ( 888/705-0274 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2288-2879 in Costa Rica; www.hotelcasachameleon.com) is a collection of four plush, individual villas, each with a private pool, set on a steep hillside overlooking Malpaís.

If you’re looking to combine beachfront luxury with some serious yoga and healthful eating, Pranamar Villas & Yoga Retreat ( 2640-0852; www.pranamarvillas.com) on the northern end of Santa Teresa is a great option, built and run by the original owners and builders of Florblanca (see below).

Playa Santa Teresa. 2640-0232. www.florblanca.com. 11 units. $400–$675 double; $575–$875 2-bedroom villa for 4; $775–$950 honeymoon house. No children under 6. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bike rental; small open-air gym; outdoor pool; room service; spa; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi.

Milarepa There are only four individual bungalows at this intimate beachfront resort. Each bungalow is raised off the ground, and appointed with simple furnishings and four-poster beds with mosquito netting. There’s no air-conditioning or TV, but with the cross breezes, ceiling fans, and lovely surroundings, you won’t miss them. The hotel has a small pool near the center of the complex and a wonderful restaurant.

Playa Santa Teresa, Cóbano, Puntarenas. 2640-0023 or 2640-0663. www.milarepahotel.com. 4 bungalows. $142–$208 double. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

MODERATE

Trópico Latino Lodge This is a wonderful little beachfront resort set on a prime patch of sand in Santa Teresa. You can opt for the large and economical garden units, or splurge for a beachfront room or bungalow. The expansive grounds here are covered with tall pochote trees that are often frequented by roaming bands of howler monkeys. There’s a small pool and beautiful oceanfront yoga studio and spa. Their Shambala restaurant is excellent.

Playa Santa Teresa, Cóbano, Puntarenas. 800/724-1235 in the U.S. and Canada, or 2640-0062 in Costa Rica. www.hoteltropicolatino.com. 20 units. $95–$215 double; $140–$240 deluxe rooms and bungalows; $350–$695 suite. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Jacuzzi; small free-form outdoor pool; small spa; free Wi-Fi.

INEXPENSIVE

In addition to the hotels listed below, Beija Flor Resort ( 2640-1007; www.beijaflorresort.com) is a cozy little resort with an excellent restaurant in Malpaís.

Hardcore budget travelers can check out Tranquilo Backpackers ( 2640-0589; www.tranquilobackpackers.com), which is located a bit inland off the road running toward Santa Teresa and has a mix of dorm-style and private rooms.

Malpaís Surf Camp & Resort This is a great, multifaceted, budget-conscious resort with a wide range of rooms and price points. You can opt for everything from bunk-bed rooms with shared bathrooms to private poolside villas. You can also pitch a tent here, if you so desire. A good-size, free-form pool sits at the center of the complex, which itself is about a 5-minute walk from the waves.

Malpaís, Cóbano de Puntarenas. 2640-0031. www.malpaissurfcamp.com. 16 units, 8 with shared bathroom. $10 per person, camping; $13–$25 per person with shared bathroom; $95–$150 double with private bathroom. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small exercise room; midsize outdoor pool; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi.

FUSION Brisas del Mar The small, nightly menu at this open-air, hilltop restaurant changes regularly. The British-born chef might serve up some chipotle-lime-marinated mahimahi or grilled chicken served over linguine with a Roquefort, brandy, and green peppercorn sauce. Dessert might feature a chocolate-banana bread pudding with single-malt infused crème anglaise. Seating is on a broad wooden deck with fabulous ocean and sunset views. Be sure to have reservations, or come early, as this place fills up fast.

In addition to the places listed below, you might try Mary’s ( 2640-0153; www.maryscostarica.com), a very popular, open-air joint that features wood oven–baked pizzas and fresh seafood, and is toward the northern end of Malpaís. The fresh, creative cooking at the Beija Flor Resort (see above) is also worth checking out in Malpaís.

Out in Santa Teresa, the Nectar restaurant at Florblanca (see above) is a great spot for a fine, romantic meal, while the Asian fusion cuisine served up from a chalkboard menu at Milarepa (see above) is also worth a taste. If you drive a bit further north, to Playa Hermosa, expect excellent sushi and Japanese fare at Koji ( 2640-0815).

EXPENSIVE

On a hillside, just north of main crossroads in Malpaís. 2640-0941. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$22. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 8–11am and 4–10pm.

Exploring Malpaís & Santa Teresa

If you decide to do anything here besides sunbathe on the beach and play in the waves, your options include nature hikes, horseback riding, ATV tours, scuba diving, and snorkeling, which most hotels can help arrange. Surfing is a major draw, with miles of beach breaks to choose from and a few points, to boot. If you want to rent a board or take a lesson, you can find a host of surf shops in Malpaís, Playa Carmen, and Santa Teresa, all of which rent boards and offer lessons. I recommend Costa Rica Surf & SUP ( 2640-0328; www.costaricasurfandsup.com) and Del Soul Surf School ( 8878-0880; www.surfvacationcostarica.com).

If you’ve gotten beat up by the waves, or are sore from paddling out, you’ll find several excellent spas in town. The best and most extensive (and most expensive) of these is at the Florblanca Resort (see above). But you might also check in to the Pranamar Villas & Yoga Retreat (see above), which is located on the beach, at the northern end of Santa Teresa.

For canopy adventures, head to Canopy del Pacífico ( 2640-0360; www.canopydelpacifico.com), which is toward the southern end of Malpaís and just slightly inland. A 2-hour tour over the nearly 2km (1 mile) of cables touches down on 11 platforms, features two rappels, and offers good views of both the forest and the ocean below. The cost is $45. Round-trip transportation from an area hotel is just another $5 per person.

Finally, any hotel in the area can arrange a horseback-riding or ATV trip into the hills and along the beaches of this region, a guided hike through Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve, a sportfishing excursion out onto the high seas, or a trip over to Montezuma.