Mushrooms, Leeks and Chives

Chicken en Cocotte

Start to finish: 1¾ hours (30 minutes active)

Servings: 4

4- to 4½-pound whole chicken, wings tucked and legs tied

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

5 tablespoons salted butter, divided

1½ pounds cremini mushrooms, quartered

3 large leeks, white and light green parts sliced crosswise, rinsed and dried

8 medium garlic cloves, peeled and halved

1½ cups dry white wine

10 thyme sprigs

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons whole-grain Dijon mustard

6 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives, plus more to serve

We came up with three variations on this Dutch oven-cooked chicken, one with a classic French pairing of mushrooms with leeks and chives, a second with fennel and spicy North African harissa, and a third flavored with dried apricots and saffron threads. In this first version, the flavors of Provence are highlighted. Mushrooms add umami flavor and lemon juice and whole-grain mustard perk up the butter-enriched wine sauce with bright acidity. To be efficient, chop the chives while the chicken cooks. Serve with mashed potatoes, egg noodles or steamed rice.

Don’t be lax about washing the leeks. Their many layers trap dirt and sand. It’s best to rinse them after slicing so you can get between the layers, then drain and pat them dry to remove excess moisture.

Heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the lower-middle position. Using paper towels, pat the chicken dry, then season on all sides with salt and pepper. Set aside.

In a large (at least 7-quart) Dutch oven over medium-high, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the mushrooms, leeks and garlic, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms have released their liquid and most of it has evaporated, about 12 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a simmer. Lay the thyme sprigs on top, then place the chicken breast down in the pot. Cover and bake until the thickest part of the breast reaches 160°F and the thighs reach 175°F, 55 to 65 minutes. Using tongs inserted into the cavity, carefully transfer to a baking dish, turning the chicken breast up. Let rest for 15 minutes.

While the chicken rests, remove and discard the thyme sprigs from the pot. Bring the cooking liquid to a simmer over medium and cook until thick enough to lightly coat a spoon, about 5 minutes. Off heat, add the remaining 4 tablespoons butter, the lemon juice and mustard, then stir until the butter melts. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the chives.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Remove the legs from the chicken by cutting through the hip joints. Remove and discard the skin from the legs, then separate the thighs from the drumsticks by cutting through the joints. Remove the breast meat from the bone, remove and discard the skin, then cut each breast half crosswise into thin slices. Arrange the chicken in a serving dish. Spoon the sauce and vegetables over and around the chicken. Sprinkle with additional chives.