ACCESS FOR TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
Yosemite National Park is on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains, approximately 180 miles east of San Francisco and 400 miles north of Los Angeles. Driving time from San Francisco is approximately four hours. A large chunk of the drive is on two-lane highways where you can’t drive faster than 45 mph. Driving time from Los Angeles is about seven hours. Most of that time is spent on major freeways where you can drive 65 mph or faster. The vast majority of Yosemite visitors enter the park in a private automobile or RV, either their own or one they have rented. Taking public transportation to the park is possible, although it requires some careful planning. Once in the park, you will probably want to have a car anyway, unless you plan to spend your time in Yosemite Valley, where free shuttle buses make cars unnecessary.
The closest airport to Yosemite and Sequoia and Kings Canyon is the small Fresno-Yosemite Airport (5175 E. Clinton Ave., Fresno, 559/621-4500 or 800/244-2359, www.flyfresno.com), a two-hour drive from Yosemite’s South entrance and 55 miles west of Kings Canyon via Highway 180.
Yosemite-bound travelers can also fly into San Francisco International Airport (650/821-8211 or 800/435-9736, www.flysfo.com), which is served by all major international and domestic airlines. The San Francisco Bay Area’s two other major airports—Oakland International (1 Airport Dr., Oakland, 510/563-3300, www.oaklandairport.com) and Mineta San Jose (1701 Airport Blvd., San Jose, 408/392-3600, www.flysanjose.com)—are also good bets for Yosemite travelers. Flights into Oakland or San Jose are often less expensive than flights into SFO. It is a four-hour drive from SFO to either the Arch Rock entrance on Highway 140 or the Big Oak Flat entrance on Highway 120; Oakland and San Jose are both about a half hour closer. Yosemite visitors should also look into flights into Sacramento International Airport (6900 Airport Blvd., 916-929-5411, www.sacramento.aero), which is a three-hour drive from the Big Oak Flat entrance on Highway 120, or a four-hour drive from the Arch Rock entrance on Highway 140.
In the summer months only, Yosemite visitors can fly into Reno-Tahoe International Airport (2001 E. Plumb Ln., www.renoairport.com) in Nevada, then make a three-hour drive to Yosemite’s Tioga Pass entrance on Highway 120 off U.S. 395. Tioga Pass is usually open from mid-June through late October each year, depending on snow.
Yosemite visitors can also fly into the Mammoth Yosemite Airport (1200 Airport Rd., Mammoth Lakes, www.visitmammoth.com), which is only a one-hour drive to Yosemite’s Tioga Pass entrance. This small airport has year-round commercial service from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) via Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com) and winter service from San Francisco and San Diego via United Airlines (www.united.com).
Smaller airports are located at Merced and Modesto, California, but they do not offer commercial passenger service.
The nearest Amtrak (Amtrak, 800/USA-RAIL, www.amtrak.com/take-train-to-yosemite-park) station is in Merced, California, more than an hour’s drive from the park. Visitors riding Amtrak will need to board a bus or rent a car to continue to Yosemite, but Amtrak makes it relatively easy with their prearranged train/bus package.
One tour company offers a prearranged one-day round-trip train tour to Yosemite from San Francisco. The Yosemite Tour Train (www.yosemitetourshuttle.com, $159 per adult) shuttle leaves the Ferry Building in San Francisco at 7am and takes passengers to the Amtrak train station in Emeryville. Passengers ride the train from Emeryville to Merced, then another shuttle carries them the rest of the way to the park. Visitors spend about five hours in Yosemite Valley before returning to San Francisco around 10pm.
Bus transportation is available year-round from the Amtrak station in Merced on VIA Trailways (209/384-1315 or 800/842-5463, www.viabus.travel). Travel time is 2.5 hours one-way. Reservations for VIA bus service to Yosemite should be made 24 hours in advance.
The single terminal at Fresno-Yosemite International Airport (5175 E. Clinton Ave., 559/621-4500 or 800/244-2359, www.flyfresno.com) is served by AeroMexico, Alaska/Horizon, Allegiant, American/American Eagle, Delta/Skywest, Frontier, United/United Express, Volaris, and US Airways. Because Fresno-Yosemite isn’t a “major” airport, flying here usually requires making a connection through larger airports in other cities.
There is no entertainment at the diminutive Fresno airport, but free wireless Internet is available. You can get a coffee at Starbucks, have a meal or a drink at the lone bar and grill, get a haircut at the airport barbershop, or buy a souvenir or a newspaper in the solo gift shop. Otherwise, be sure you have a good book to keep you company while you wait for your plane.
Several major car rental companies are located at Fresno-Yosemite Airport: Avis (559/454-5030 or 800/331-1212, www.avis.com), Budget (559/253-4100 or 800/527-0700, www.budget.com), Dollar (800/800-4000, www.dollar.com), Enterprise (559/253-2700 or 800/434-2226, www.enterprise.com), Hertz (559/251-5055 or 800/654-3131, www.hertz.com), and National/Alamo (559/251-5577, 800/328-4567, or 800/327-9633, www.nationalcar.com).
RV rentals in Fresno cost about the same as elsewhere in California, which is basically the same nightly price as a stay in a good hotel. And just like at hotels, your price will vary widely whether you are traveling during the high season (summer) or low season (Oct.-Apr.). For an RV that can sleep up to five people (about 32 feet long), expect to pay about $200 per night in the low season, and as much as $400 per night in the high season (May-Sept.). On a night-by-night basis, you can save a little money by renting an RV for a week. Seven nights’ rental will run about $1,300 during the low season, $2,400 during the high season. But don’t forget to tack on the mileage fee. Most companies allow 60-100 free miles per day, and then charge a flat rate for extra mileage (typically about 30-35 cents per mile).
Also, plan to spend a small fortune on gasoline—most RVs get 6-10 miles to the gallon. The smallest rigs may get a whopping 14 miles per gallon.
To rent an RV in Fresno, contact A Class RV (2557 W. Cambridge Ave., Fresno, 559/264-1920, www.aclassrv.com), or contact Cruise America at Clovis Truck Rental (707 Jefferson Ave., Clovis, 559/299-9603, www.cruiseamerica.com), in nearby Clovis.
Because Fresno-Yosemite Airport is only a two-hour drive from Yosemite, it’s unlikely you’ll spend much time in Fresno. It’s not that the region doesn’t have its charms (hey, it’s the number-one farm county in the nation); it’s just that it pales when compared to Yosemite. But if your flight gets in late and you need a place to stay, four good overnight choices are located near the airport, all of which offer free shuttle service to Fresno-Yosemite and room rates of less than $150.
• Holiday Inn Fresno Airport (5090 E. Clinton Way, 559/252-3611 or 800/465-4329, www.fresnoairporthi.com)
• Best Western Plus Fresno Airport (1551 N. Peach Ave., 800/568-8520, www.bwfresnoairporthotel.com)
• Piccadilly Inn Express (5113 E. McKinley Ave., 559/375-7720, www.piccadillyinnexpress.com)
• Airport Piccadilly Inn (5115 E. McKinley Ave., 888/611-8163, www.piccadillyairport.com)
Of the five entrance stations to Yosemite, visitors coming from the south (Fresno, Los Angeles, Oakhurst) generally use the South entrance on Highway 41. The Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias is found within two miles of the South entrance. This is also the easiest access point for Glacier Point and Badger Pass Ski Area. Yosemite Valley is a one-hour drive from the South entrance, so figure on a total of three hours from Fresno to Yosemite Valley.
From Fresno, simply take Highway 41 north for 65 miles. Plan to drive two hours on this winding highway to reach Yosemite. The road is usually open year-round, although chains may be required during snowy periods in the winter months.
One of the world’s 30 busiest airports, San Francisco International Airport (SFO, 650/821-8211 or 800/435-9736, www.flysfo.com) has three main terminals plus an international terminal, which are shared by most major international and domestic carriers. The airport is not located in San Francisco proper, but rather 15 miles south of the city near the town of Millbrae in San Mateo County. SFO’s hallowed halls are filled with just about every imaginable kind of gift shop and ethnic food restaurant, as well as an excellent series of rotating art exhibits as intriguing as anything you’ll find at a major city museum. SFO is not a bad place to kill a few hours.
The San Francisco Bay Area has two other major airports: Oakland International (1 Airport Dr., Oakland, 510/563-3300, www.oaklandairport.com) and Mineta San Jose International (1701 Airport Blvd., San Jose, 408/392-3600, www.flysanjose.com). At both airports “international” means primarily Mexico. Travelers coming from cities within the United States, especially the western states, should check fares and flight times into San Jose and Oakland as well as San Francisco. Most Bay Area locals prefer the ease of travel at the smaller Oakland and San Jose airports over mammoth SFO (and the commute to Yosemite is about 30-60 minutes shorter!). Visitors arriving from other countries will most likely fly into SFO.
All the major companies have rental counters at San Francisco Airport, although none are in the terminals. Instead, SFO has an off-airport Rental Car Center that houses all the car companies’ rental counters. Travelers get to the Rental Car Center from any of the airport terminals by taking an automated light rail system, the AirTrain Blue Line. AirTrain operates 24 hours a day.
You can have your pick of the car rental companies at SFO: Alamo (www.alamo.com), Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), Dollar (www.dollar.com), Enterprise (www.enterprise.com), Fox (www.foxrentacar.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com), National (www.nationalcar.com), and Thrifty (www.thrifty.com).
You might be able to save a little money by renting cars from an off-airport car rental company, such as ACE (877/822-3872 or www.acerentacar.com) or Payless (800/729-5377 or www.paylesscarrental.com). These companies are served by free shuttle service from the SFO Rental Car Center.
RV rentals in San Francisco cost about the same nightly price as a stay in a good hotel. And just like at hotels, prices vary widely depending on whether you are traveling during the high season (summer) or low season (Oct.-Apr.). For an RV that can sleep up to five people (about 32 feet long), expect to pay about $200 per night in the low season, and as much as $400 per night in the high season (May-Sept.). On a night-by-night basis, you can save a little money by renting an RV for a week. Seven nights’ rental will run about $1,300 during the low season, $2,400 during the high season.
To rent an RV, head to El Monte RV (111 Mason St., San Francisco, 888/337-2214, www.elmonterv.com), 14 miles north of SFO in downtown San Francisco. The RV center isn’t actually located there, but customers are shuttled from this location to the RV rental center in Dublin (East Bay). Smaller Bay Area RV rental companies include Lost Campers (2955 Third St., San Francisco, 415/386-2693, www.lostcampersusa.com), Escape Campervans (427 Beach St., San Francisco, 877/270-8267, www.escapecampervans.com), and Moturis Inc. (877/562-7566, www.moturis.com) and Adventure Touring RV Rentals (877/778-9569, www.adventuretouring.com), both located at 420 San Leandro Boulevard in San Leandro.
San Francisco International Airport is approximately 190 miles from Yosemite, so depending on your flight time, you may need to spend a night somewhere near the airport. A word of caution: Unless you possess an endless amount of patience, don’t even think of driving out of the Bay Area toward Yosemite between the hours of 3pm and 7pm on weekdays. (On summer Fridays, that window is even larger—say 1pm-7pm) Traffic heading eastward at rush hour from San Francisco and its environs is hellish at best. If your plane lands at 4pm and you set out for Yosemite immediately after picking up your rental car, your 4.5-hour drive to the park could easily extend to 7 hours. It might be better to wait until the morning, when most of the traffic heads in the opposite direction.
You’d be hard-pressed to find any motels or hotels near San Francisco in the “budget” category. The following seven establishments, all within a few miles of SFO and with free shuttle service to and from the airport, will rent you a room with all the standard amenities for $100-200.
• Holiday Inn Express (373 S. Airport Blvd., South San Francisco, 650/589-0600, www.hiexpresssfo.com)
• The Dylan at SFO (110 S. El Camino Real, Millbrae, 650/697-7373 or 800/697-7370, www.dylansfo.com)
• Best Western Plus Airport Grosvenor Hotel (380 S. Airport Blvd., South San Francisco, 650/873-3200, www.grosvenorsfo.com)
• Holiday Inn San Francisco Airport (275 S. Airport Blvd., South San Francisco, 650/873-3550, www.hisfo.com)
• La Quinta Inn San Francisco Airport North (20 S. Airport Blvd., South San Francisco, 650/583-2223, www.laquintasanfranciscoairportnorth.com)
• Hyatt Regency San Francisco Airport (1333 Bayshore Hwy., Burlingame, 650/347-1234, www.sanfranciscoairport.hyatt.com)
Visitors coming from the west (San Francisco, Oakland, Sacramento) generally access Yosemite by using the Big Oak Flat entrance on Highway 120 or the Arch Rock entrance on Highway 140. The Arch Rock/Highway 140 entrance boasts the best winter access to the park because it rarely receives any snowfall. The Big Oak Flat/Highway 120 entrance is the closest western access to Tuolumne Meadows, Tioga Pass, and Hetch Hetchy, and it also provides fairly easy year-round access to Yosemite Valley (the road to the Valley is always plowed immediately after snowfall).
To reach the Arch Rock entrance from San Francisco, take I-80 East across the San Francisco/Oakland Bay Bridge, and then head south and east on I-580. Stay on I-580 for 55 miles, passing through Livermore, and then take I-5 south. Drive 30 miles and turn east on Highway 140. Drive 40 miles east to Merced, then continue east on Highway 140 for another 35 miles to Mariposa (last chance for supplies), and then another 30 miles to the Arch Rock entrance. The entire drive will take about 4.5 hours, unless you run into traffic in the San Francisco Bay Area. Avoid driving during commute hours if at all possible.
To reach the Big Oak Flat entrance from San Francisco, take I-80 East across the San Francisco/Oakland Bay Bridge, and then head east on I-580. Stay on I-580 for 45 miles, passing through Livermore, and then continue east on I-205. In 15 miles, connect to Highway 120 East in Manteca. Stay on Highway 120 heading east for the remaining 85 miles to the Big Oak Flat entrance. Total driving time is about four hours if you are not stopped by traffic. If your destination is Yosemite Valley, you have another 45 minutes of driving after the Big Oak Flat entrance.
If you want to visit Hetch Hetchy, the access road to this region of the park begins one mile from the Big Oak Flat entrance station, so you should use Highway 120 as your driving route.
Reno-Tahoe International Airport (2001 E. Plumb Ln., Reno, www.renoairport.com) is a good choice for summer visitors who want to see the high country of Yosemite along Tioga Pass Road and perhaps also visit Lake Tahoe, Las Vegas, Death Valley, or other destinations in and around the state of Nevada or the east side of California’s Sierra Nevada mountains. Tioga Pass Road (Highway 120), where it enters Yosemite at Tioga Pass at elevation 9,945 feet, is usually open from mid-June to late October each year, but if you are planning your trip far in advance, be cautious about choosing dates on either end of that window. Being able to drive through Tioga Pass cannot be guaranteed in June or October.
Reno’s medium-size airport has two main terminals that serve Alaska, Allegiant, American, Delta, Horizon, Southwest, United, and US Airways. Scattered among the gates are the usual cabal of airport shops: a Peet’s Coffee, Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, McDonald’s, a golf shop, and several gift shops and newsstands. And because this airport is in Nevada, where gambling is legal, you can try your luck at the slot machines that are located throughout both terminals. If you’d rather fill your time with an activity less likely to empty your wallet, take advantage of the airport’s free wireless Internet service.
Several major car rental companies are located at Reno-Tahoe International Airport: Advantage (www.advantage.com), Alamo (www.alamo.com), Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), Dollar (www.dollar.com), Enterprise (www.enterprise.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com), National (www.nationalcar.com), and Thrifty (www.thrifty.com).
Reno calls itself “the biggest little city in the world,” for reasons that are altogether unclear to most visitors. Despite its best efforts to publicize and promote its gambling casinos and nightlife, Reno has always been the poor cousin to much more glamorous Las Vegas in southern Nevada. Nonetheless, the town has a great location vis-ô-vis the Eastern Sierra and Lake Tahoe, which serves to keep its hotels and motels in business. Although the city’s revitalized riverfront area is charming, it’s unlikely you’ll want to spend much time in Reno except perhaps to pull the lever on a few one-armed bandits. If you need a place to stay near the airport, here are four good choices in the under-$150 category. Each is less than three miles from Reno-Tahoe International Airport:
• Best Western Airport Plaza (1981 Terminal Way, 775/348-6370, www.bestwestern.com)
• La Quinta Inn Reno Airport (4001 Market St., 775/348-6100, www.laquintareno.com)
• Hyatt Place Reno-Tahoe Airport (1790 East Plumb Lane, 775/826-2500, www.hyatt.com)
• Comfort Inn and Suites Airport (1250 East Plumb Lane, 775/682-4444, www.comfortinn.com)
Visitors heading to Yosemite from the east (Reno, Mammoth Lakes, Death Valley, Bishop) generally use the Tioga Pass entrance on Highway 120. Note that this road is only open in the summer months; it is usually closed November-early June. The Tioga Pass entrance delivers you to Yosemite’s high country, only a few miles from famous Tuolumne Meadows. If you’re heading straight for Yosemite Valley, it is nearly a two-hour drive from Tioga Pass, through some of the loveliest scenery you can imagine. This is a drive worth doing.
To access Tioga Pass from Reno, Nevada, take U.S. 395 south for 135 miles (through Bridgeport, California) to Lee Vining. This small town is your last chance for supplies. On the south side of Lee Vining, turn west on Highway 120 and drive 13 miles to the Tioga Pass entrance.
One note: When crossing into California by automobile, all visitors are subject to agricultural inspections run by the California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA). The inspection may be as simple as an officer stopping your car momentarily to ask you where you have been traveling and if you are carrying any fruits, vegetables, or plants from other states. As a general rule, most out-of-state produce and plants should be kept out of California, unless they have been properly inspected by the CDFA. For more information on current regulations, visit the CDFA website at www.cdfa.ca.gov.
Relatively small and pleasantly uncongested, Sacramento International Airport (6900 Airport Blvd., Sacramento, 916/929-5411, www.sacairports.org) is served by these airlines: Alaska, American, Delta, Frontier, Horizon, Jet Blue, Southwest, United, United Express, and US Airways. Travelers arriving from other U.S. cities will often find that airfare is less expensive to Sacramento than it is to San Francisco Bay Area airports. The usual array of airport restaurants and shops can be found here: a Starbucks, Cinnabon, Burger King, Quizno’s, La Salsa, several bookstores and souvenir shops, and the like. The airport also has free wireless Internet available throughout all public areas.
Several major car rental companies are located at Sacramento International Airport: Alamo (www.alamo.com), Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), Dollar (www.dollar.com), Enterprise (www.enterprise.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com), and National (www.nationalcar.com). You might save a little money by renting from Royal Rental Cars (916/442-1362, www.advancerents.com) or Payless Car Rental (916/441-4488, www.paylesscar.com), both of which are located a few miles from the airport.
RV rentals in Sacramento cost about the same as a night in a good hotel. Prices vary widely whether you are traveling during the high season (summer) or low season (Oct.-Apr.). For an RV that can sleep up to five people (about 32 feet long), expect to pay about $200 per night in the low season, and as much as $400 per night in the high season (May- Sept.). On a night-by-night basis, you can save a little money by renting an RV for a week. Seven nights’ rental will run about $1,300 during the low season, $2,400 during the high season. But don’t forget to tack on the mileage fee. Most companies allow 60-100 free miles per day, and then charge a flat rate for extra mileage (typically about 30-35 cents per mile). Also, plan to spend a small fortune on gasoline—most RVs get 6-10 miles to the gallon. The smallest rigs may get a whopping 14 miles per gallon.
Sacramento RV rental companies include El Monte RV (4100 Florin Perkins Rd., Sacramento, 916/929-9001, www.elmonterv.com), Advantage Caravans (1064 El Camino Ave., Sacramento, 916/832-8824), and Happy Daze RVs (1199 El Camino Ave., Sacramento, 916/921-2222, www.happydazerv.com).
If your flight gets in late and you need a place to stay, more than a dozen hotels are located near the airport. Those listed here have free shuttle service to and from the airport. Room rates are generally under $150. The Hilton Garden Inn is located only nine miles from the airport, and all rooms have microwaves and small refrigerators. There is a restaurant on-site. The Governors Inn is located midway between the airport and downtown Sacramento; the hotel is conveniently located near the shops of Old Sacramento and the city’s downtown plaza.
• Holiday Inn Express Sacramento Airport Natomas (2981 Advantage Way, 877/859-5095, www.hiexpress.com)
• Hampton Inn & Suites Sacramento Airport Natomas (3021 Advantage Way, 855/271-3622, www.hamptoninn.hilton.com)
• Homewood Suites by Hilton (3001 Advantage Way, 855/277-4942, www.homewood.hilton.com)
• Hilton Garden Inn (2540 Venture Oaks Way, 916/568-5400, www.hiltongardeninnsacramento.com)
• Governors Inn (210 Richards Blvd., 916/448-7224 or 800/999-6689, www.governorsinnhotel.com)
• Residence Inn Sacramento Airport/Natomas (2410 W. El Camino Ave., 916/649-1300, www.marriott.com)
Of the five entrance stations to Yosemite, visitors coming from the north (Sacramento and Northern California) generally use the Big Oak Flat entrance on Highway 120, traveling through the gateway town of Groveland. The Big Oak Flat entrance has the most convenient access to Tuolumne Meadows and Tioga Pass Road and is a 35-minute drive from Yosemite Valley.
From Sacramento, take Highway 99 south for 58 miles to Manteca. Take the Yosemite Boulevard/Highway 120 East exit in Manteca. Follow Highway 120 East for 85 miles all the way to the Big Oak Flat entrance to Yosemite. The road is usually open year-round, although chains may be required during snowy periods in the winter months.
Except on crowded summer days in Yosemite Valley, driving a car around Yosemite National Park is quite easy. More than 200 miles of roads lace the park, and parking is not usually difficult (except in Yosemite Valley in summer). If you are visiting Yosemite Valley May-September, consider leaving your car in one of the day-use parking areas and riding the free shuttle bus or taking an organized tour.
Remember always to follow bear precautions when leaving your car parked anywhere in Yosemite, especially at night. This means nothing scented should remain inside the car, including food and toiletries. Even an empty soda can or a tube of toothpaste can inspire a bear to break into your car.
When visiting Yosemite November-April, know that tire chains may be required on any park road at any time. You are least likely to need chains on Highway 140, the “All-Weather Highway,” but it is still always possible, and winter visitors are required to carry tire chains in their car.
Recreational vehicles (RVs) are welcome in Yosemite, except for the very biggest of the rigs: RVs over 45 feet long are not permitted in most areas of the park, including Yosemite Valley.
Certain roads in the park are not accessible to smaller RVs as well. The Hetch Hetchy Road is closed to all vehicles longer than 25 feet. The Mariposa Grove Road is closed to RVs and trailers 9am-6pm in summer, but you can park your rig at Wawona and ride a free shuttle bus to the grove. The access road to Yosemite Creek Campground is closed to RVs or trailers longer than 24 feet, and the road to Tamarack Flat Campground is not recommended for large RVs.
If you are visiting Yosemite Valley for the day in your RV, you would be well advised to enter the park early in the morning, park your rig as soon as possible, and then ride the free Valley shuttle bus to all of the Valley’s sites (or join an organized tour, or rent a bike and ride, or walk around the Valley on foot).
If you are planning to camp in your RV, know in advance that there are no utility hookups in Yosemite. Park regulations permit the use of generators 7am-7pm only. Dump stations are available at three locations in the park: Upper Pines Campground, Wawona Campground, and Tuolumne Meadows Campground.
Park maps are available at Yosemite’s five entrance stations and four visitors centers, by contacting Yosemite National Park at 209/372-0200, or by downloading one from the park website at www.nps.gov/yose. A more detailed map, better suited for people who want to explore beyond the park roads, is available for a fee from Tom Harrison Maps (415/456-7940, www.tomharrisonmaps.com). This company publishes a general Yosemite National Park recreation map, which shows all the major park trails, and also specialized maps showing greater detail of Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, and the Yosemite High Country. Trails Illustrated (www.natgeomaps.com) also publishes a Yosemite National Park map.
Free hybrid shuttle buses run year-round in Yosemite Valley and along a stretch of Tioga Pass Road (Tuolumne Meadows area) in summer. A free shuttle bus also runs from the Wawona Store to the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias in the summer months. Unlike the shuttle buses in the rest of the park, this one is mandatory (it is used to relieve traffic on the Mariposa Grove Road). In the winter season, a free shuttle runs from Yosemite Valley to Badger Pass Ski Area.
For visitors staying in towns just outside the park borders, YARTS buses (877/989-2787, www.yarts.com) run from some gateway towns outside the park into Yosemite Valley. YARTS buses travel on Highway 120 East and Highway 120 West (summer only) and Highway 140 (year-round), but currently they do not serve the south side of the park (Highway 41). The bus system provides an option for visitors who would rather not drive and hassle with parking in Yosemite Valley, but this is not a free service. Tickets run anywhere between $2-30, depending on your departure point. Purchase your ticket directly from the bus driver. YARTS buses travel from Merced, Catheys Valley, Mariposa, Midpines, and El Portal to Yosemite Valley along Highway 140; from Mammoth Lakes, June Lake, Lee Vining, and Tuolumne Meadows to Yosemite Valley along Highway 120 East; and from Sonora and Groveland along Highway 120 West.
If you are visiting Yosemite for the first time, or if you are a repeat visitor who would like to expand your knowledge of the park, consider hiring a local guide. These private, independent guide services take visitors on professionally guided hikes and/or driving tours; some also offer customized camping or backpacking trips. Call ahead to schedule a tour that is suited to your desires and ability level: Yosemite Guide Service (530/523-3998, www.yosemiteguideservice.com), Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides (800/231-4575, www.symg.com), Y Explore (800/886-8009, www.yexplore.com).
The following 10 essentials will help ensure that your outdoor adventures stay safe and fun.
1. Food and water. Water is even more important than food, although it’s unwise to get caught without at least some edible supplies for emergencies. If you don’t want to carry heavy bottles of water, at least carry a purifier or filtering device so that you can obtain water from streams, rivers, or lakes. Never, ever drink water from a natural source without purifying it. Food selections are much-debated matters of personal choice. If you don’t want to carry much weight, stick with high-energy snacks like nutrition bars, nuts, dried fruit, turkey or beef jerky, and crackers. If you’re hiking in a group, each of you should carry your own food and water just in case someone gets too far ahead or behind.
2. Trail map. Never count on trail signs to get you where you want to go. Signs get knocked down or disappear due to rain, wind, or visitors looking for souvenirs. Carry a map that is much more detailed than the free map provided at park entrance stations. A variety of maps are for sale at park visitors centers and stores. Try maps published by Tom Harrison Maps or Trails Illustrated.
3. Extra clothing. Not only can the weather suddenly turn windy, cloudy, or rainy (it can even snow!), but your body’s condition also changes: You’ll perspire as you hike up a sunny hill and then get chilled at the top of a windy ridge or when you head into shade. Always carry a lightweight, waterproof, wind-resistant jacket. Stay away from clothing made from cotton; once cotton gets wet, it stays wet. Polyester-blend fabrics dry faster; some high-tech fabrics wick moisture away from your skin. In cooler temperatures, or when heading to a mountain summit, carry gloves and a hat as well.
4. Flashlight. Mini-flashlights are available everywhere, weigh almost nothing, and can save the day. Tiny “squeeze” LED flashlights, about the size and shape of a quarter, can clip onto any key ring. Bring two or three. Make sure the batteries work before you set out on the trail.
5. Sunglasses and sunscreen. The higher the elevation, the more dangerous the sun’s rays are. Put on high-SPF sunscreen 30 minutes before you go out, and then reapply every two to three hours. Protect your face with a wide-brimmed hat and your lips with high-SPF lip balm.
6. Insect repellent. Find one that works for you and carry it with you. Many types of insect repellent use an ingredient called DEET, which is effective but also quite toxic, especially for children. Other types of repellent are made of natural substances, such as lemon or eucalyptus oil. If you visit White Wolf’s meadows in the middle of a major mosquito hatch, it may seem like nothing works to repel bugs except covering your entire body in mosquito netting.
7. First-aid kit. Supplies for blister repair, an elastic bandage, an antibiotic ointment, and an anti-inflammatory medicine such as ibuprofen can be valuable in emergencies. If you’re allergic to bee stings or anything else in the outdoors, carry medication.
8. Swiss Army-style pocketknife. Carry one with several blades, a can opener, scissors, and tweezers.
9. Compass. Know how to use it. If you prefer to use GPS, that’s fine, but know that GPS may not work everywhere you go.
10. Emergency supplies. Ask, “What would I need if I had to spend the night outside?”
In addition to food and water, these supplies can get you through an unplanned night in the wilderness:
• Purchase a lightweight blanket or sleeping bag made of foil-like Mylar film designed to reflect radiating body heat. These make a great emergency shelter and weigh and cost almost nothing.
• Keep matches and a candle in a waterproof container (or zippered bag), just in case you ever need to build a fire in an emergency.
• Bring a whistle. If you need help, you can blow a whistle for a lot longer than you can shout.
• A flash from a small signal mirror can be seen from far away.
Going backpacking in Hetch Hetchy or elsewhere in Yosemite? It’s far too easy to head out on the trail and realize too late that you left a critical item at home. Use this handy checklist to help you pack or tailor it to your own individual needs.
1. Permit. First and foremost, you need a wilderness permit (reserve in advance at 209/372-0740 or www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm). If you didn’t plan ahead, then show up at one of Yosemite’s Wilderness Permit offices and see what permits are still available. You may have to be flexible about what trailhead you use as your starting point, and you may have to wait 24 hours to leave on your trip.
2. Shelter. Tent, rainfly, poles, and stakes, plus a ground tarp (a rain poncho can serve this purpose).
3. Sleeping. Sleeping bag and sleeping pad. If you are a creature of comfort, pack along a small pillow, too.
4. Food and cooking. In Yosemite, you must store your food (and any scented items) in a bear canister. This is not just a good idea—it’s the law. Buy or rent one at the Hetch Hetchy entrance station or at other locations in Yosemite. To cook and eat, you’ll need a camp stove and plenty of fuel, waterproof matches or a lighter, a set of lightweight pots and pans with lids, pot grips for handling hot pots, zip-locking bags, trash bags, lightweight cutlery and dishes, and a cup for drinking. Carry as much freeze-dried or lightweight food as you can (more than you think you’ll need). Most important, don’t forget a water bottle and filter or some type of purifier like a Steripen ultraviolet light.
5. Clothing. A good basic packing list includes underwear, socks, T-shirts, shorts or convertible pants, a long-sleeved shirt, windproof and waterproof jacket and pants, gloves, hats (both a warm hat for cold nights and mornings and a wide-brimmed hat for sun protection), sunglasses, rain poncho, hiking boots, and lightweight camp shoes or sandals such as Tevas.
6. Toiletries. You can go without a lot in the backcountry, but you don’t want to go without sunscreen and sun-protecting lip balm, insect repellent, toothbrush and toothpaste, and maybe a comb or hair bands. Some backpackers bring toilet paper; if you do, remember that you must pack it out. (Minimalists use large leaves instead.) A small plastic trowel is useful for burying human waste.
7. First-aid kit. A basic kit should include an emergency space blanket made of mylar film, tweezers, sterile gauze pads, adhesive medical tape, adhesive bandages in assorted sizes, an elastic bandage, aspirin or ibuprofen, moleskin for blisters, antibiotic ointment, and any prescription medications you might need.
8. Other critical stuff. Two or more flashlights and extra batteries, GPS and/or compass, small signal mirror, appropriate maps, hiking poles, whistle, 50-foot nylon cord, candles, extra matches, repair kit and/or sewing kit, safety pins, and a Swiss Army-style pocketknife.
9. Fun stuff. Camera and memory card, extra camera battery, binoculars, fishing gear and license, pen and pencil, playing cards, star chart, and nature identification guides for birds, flowers, trees, etc.
10. What to put it all in. A backpack, of course. And if the top of your backpack doesn’t separate from the main pack to make a day pack, carry along a smaller day pack for taking short outings from your base camp.
A wilderness permit is required year-round for any overnight stay in the backcountry areas of Yosemite. (You do not need a permit for day hikes, except for hiking to Half Dome.) Due to the number of people who wish to backpack through Yosemite’s backcountry, quotas are in effect May 1 through September 30 for the number of permits granted at all wilderness trailheads. Sixty percent of the daily quota can be reserved ahead of time; the remaining 40 percent is available on a first-come, first-served basis starting at 11am on the day before your intended hike.
One more thing: If you think you can sneak off into Yosemite’s backcountry without a wilderness permit and not get caught, think again. Especially in the summer months, rangers regularly patrol Yosemite’s wilderness areas and check to see that backpackers are carrying permits.
Wilderness permit reservation forms are available online (www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm). This site offers a complete list of trail descriptions, general wilderness information, and current regulations. You can reserve a wilderness permit in advance for $5 per person plus a $5 reservation fee. Permits are available up to 24 weeks or 168 days in advance of your trip, when the wilderness reservation offices are open (usually late Nov.-Oct.).
After you have filled out the form, you can fax (209/372-0739) or mail (Wilderness Permit Reservations, P.O. Box 545, Yosemite, CA 95389) it in. Include a valid credit card number and expiration date, or a check payable to the Yosemite Conservancy. Allow two weeks to receive a response. For last-minute backpacking trips (within the next two weeks), you must call to obtain a reservation (209/372-0740, 8:30am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri. Sept.-May, 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-4pm Sat. Memorial Day-Labor Day). The line is often busy; faxes and mailed forms are processed before phone calls.
Reserved wilderness permits must be picked up in person no earlier than 10am on the day before your reserved trip start date.
If you show up in Yosemite without a permit reservation, you will have very limited choices as to where you can backpack because most of the popular trailheads’ quotas (in effect May-Sept.) will be filled. Without a reservation, your best bet is to appear at one of the wilderness permit offices (call 209/372-0740 for current hours at Big Oak Flat Information Station, Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Center, Yosemite Valley Wilderness Center, Wawona Information Station, or Hetch Hetchy entrance station) and see what is available. Unreserved permits for the same day can be picked up when the wilderness permit office opens for the day; unreserved permits for the following day are available on a first-come, first-served basis beginning at 11am. If you can be flexible about your destination, and/or if you are willing to wait 24 hours before leaving, you should be able to plan a backpacking trip that suits you.
If you need to spend a night in the park before setting off on your permitted backpacking trip, a few backpackers’ campsites are available at the Valley’s North Pines Campground, at Tuolumne Meadows Campground, and at Hetch Hetchy. Campers who wish to stay in these sites may do so for only one night before or after their backpacking trip, and they must have their wilderness permit in hand. The sites are walk-in only, and only backpacking-type equipment may be brought in.
Generally, citizens of foreign countries who wish to visit the United States must first obtain a visa. To apply for a visa, applicants must prove that the purpose of their trip to the United States is for business, pleasure, or medical treatment; that they plan to remain for a limited period of time; and that they have a residence outside the United States as well as other binding ties that will guarantee their return abroad.
However, under the Visa Waiver Program, citizens of 38 foreign countries do not need a visa for travel to the United States, provided they are staying for less than 90 days. The countries are: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Chile, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, and the United Kingdom.
As part of the customs process, the United States Department of Agriculture screens all foreign visitors at their first point of arrival in the United States (usually at the airport). Foreigners must declare, in writing, all fruits, vegetables, fruit and vegetable products, meat, meat products, and dairy products that they have brought from another country. Failure to declare an apple or orange, or a leftover sandwich containing meat, can lead to a major delay in getting through customs.
Once a foreign visitor is inside the United States, he or she may travel freely from state to state. However, all visitors (foreign or not) are subject to additional agricultural inspections when entering California by automobile from bordering states. A California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) officer may stop your car momentarily to ask you where you’ve been traveling and if you are carrying any fruits, vegetables, or plants from other states. In rare cases, vehicles are searched. Most out-of-state produce and plants should be kept out of California. For more information on current regulations, visit the CDFA website at www.cdfa.ca.gov.
Finally, there is no compulsory or government insurance plan in the United States. Foreign travelers are advised to purchase travel and health insurance in case of an emergency.
Most large banks in the United States exchange major foreign currencies. Large international airports such as San Francisco have currency exchange offices in their international terminals. If you are traveling to Yosemite, you should exchange your money before you head into the small-town regions surrounding the park. The areas around Yosemite, as well as the developed areas inside the park, are not large enough to offer currency exchange.
While traveling in California, your best bet is to use credit cards for purchases and use an ATM (automated teller machine) to get cash. ATMs are found at various business establishments in the park.
Electrical current in the United States is 110 volts. A hair dryer or electric shaver from Europe won’t work here without an adapter, which is available at most travel stores.
Within the United States, you may phone 888/US1-INFO (888/871-4636) for free access to emergency services and travel assistance in more than 140 languages.
You must be 21 years of age to purchase and/or drink alcohol in California. Drinking and driving is a serious crime in this state; the simple act of having an open container of alcohol in your car, even if it is empty, is punishable by law. If you are arrested for driving under the influence of alcohol, you must submit to a chemical test to determine blood alcohol content.
Smoking is prohibited on public transportation and in all public buildings and enclosed spaces in California. Most restaurants and bars have no-smoking policies. For the most part, you aren’t allowed to light up unless you are in a private space or outside in an open area. If someone asks you to put out your cigarette, it’s best to do so. Chances are, they have the law on their side. You must be 18 years of age to purchase tobacco products in California.
It is illegal to talk on a handheld cell phone while driving in California or Nevada. It is legal to talk on your phone if you are using a hands-free device (such as a Bluetooth system in your car, or an earpiece).
The California state sales tax is 7.25 percent. Local taxes may be as much as 2.75 percent, adding a total 10 percent to almost everything you buy.
If you are staying at any hotel or lodging in or near Yosemite, expect to pay between 10 and 13 percent “transient occupancy tax” on top of the regular room rate of the hotel. Each county in California sets its own rate for this tax.
At sit-down restaurants, it is customary to tip 15 percent on top of the bill. The tip is your payment to your food server for good service—and in the United States, most servers count on your tip as part of their day’s pay.
People with permanent disabilities are entitled to an Access Pass, which provides free access to all federal fee areas, including all U.S. national parks and national forests. It also allows for discounted camping fees at some campgrounds. Access Passes are available at no cost from Yosemite visitors centers and entrance stations.
A free brochure on accessibility for wheelchair users and other physically challenged visitors is available by contacting the park, or by download from www.nps.gov/yose. Wheelchair rentals are available at the Yosemite Medical Clinic (9000 Ahwahnee Drive, Yosemite Valley, 209/372-4637) and at the Yosemite Lodge bike rental kiosk (209/372-1208).
For hearing-impaired visitors, a sign language interpreter is available in the park in the summer months. To request in advance that the interpreter is available at a certain park event or activity, contact the rangers in any visitors center. All requests are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Park orientation videos and slide shows in the Valley Visitor Center are captioned.
For visitors who are sight-impaired, tactile exhibits are found at the Valley Visitor Center, Happy Isles Nature Center, Indian Cultural Museum, and Mariposa Grove Museum.
People with handicapped placards in their cars are allowed driving access on the Happy Isles Loop and paved road to Mirror Lake (east of Curry Village). Disabled visitors who don’t have a handicapped placard may obtain a temporary one from park visitors centers.
In spring through fall, disabled people who are unable to board the Mariposa Grove Tram may drive behind the tram and listen to a cassette tape tour of the grove.
Families and national parks are a perfect match. Yosemite and other national parks are ideal places to teach kids about nature and the environment and to let them experience a world without television sets and video games. Kids invariably have fun in the outdoors, and with all the kid-friendly activities in the park, parents are never left wondering what to do with their charges. In Yosemite, kids can go for hikes, attend a campfire talk led by a park ranger, climb on rocks, help with camp chores, learn about animals that reside in the park, ride bikes, toast marshmallows, go rafting, ride horses, learn photography skills, or just hang out in a meadow and be kids. The list of possible activities for kids in Yosemite is endless—just as it is for adults.
The Junior Ranger program, popular at national parks across the country, is open to kids ages 7-13. Kids earn the official Junior Ranger badge by completing an activity book ($5), attending a one-hour Junior Ranger Walk, and picking up a bag of litter to help keep the park clean. Junior Ranger walks are held daily during the summer. For more information, check the park’s free newspaper, or ask in any visitors center. Younger kids (ages 3-6) can join in the Little Cubs program.
Wee Wild Ones is a free 45-minute interactive program for kids ages 6 and under, featuring stories, songs, games, crafts, and activities, mostly relating to the subject of Yosemite’s animals. In the summer and fall, Wee Wild Ones occurs before evening programs held at the Yosemite Lodge at the Falls Amphitheater or the Curry Village Amphitheater. In winter and spring, this program is held during the day in front of the great fireplace in the Ahwahnee Hotel. Parents are encouraged to participate with their children.
The Yosemite Theater has an evening program especially geared toward kids: “Ranger Ned’s Big Adventure” plays three nights a week June-August. The audience goes on a humorous, interactive trek with a rookie ranger.
Visitors can drown in strong river currents when they do not obey “no swimming” signs.
If you are 62 years of age or older and a U.S. citizen or permanent resident, you can purchase a Senior Pass (formerly known as the “Golden Age Passport”) for $10. This one-time fee provides you with a pass that is good at all U.S. national parks for the rest of your life. If you are blind or permanently disabled and a U.S. citizen or permanent resident, you can receive an Access Pass (previously called a “Golden Access Passport”) at no cost. This, too, is good at all U.S. national parks for life. (People who have already received passes under their former names, “Golden Age Passport” or “Golden Access Passport,” don’t have to trade in their old passes for the new ones.)
Traveling with your pet to any national park in the United States is a difficult proposition. Pets are not allowed in any lodging in Yosemite, and they are not allowed on the vast majority of trails. Pets are permitted in some campgrounds and in all parking lots and picnic areas. In campgrounds, they must be in your tent, RV, or car at night, or you risk having your pet tangle with a bear or other wild animal. Pets should never be left unattended at any time. At all times, they must be physically restrained or attached to a leash six feet long or shorter.
Yosemite Valley has a nine-stall dog kennel (209/372-8348, open May-Sept.) near the horse stables where you can board your dog, but this is a terribly sad place where dogs sit glumly in cages while their owners go off for great hikes around the Valley. To put your dog in the kennel, he or she must be at least six months old and 20 pounds in weight and have written proof of vaccinations (rabies, distemper, parvo, and Bordetella). Dogs weighing less than 20 pounds may be considered for boarding if the dog owner provides a small kennel.
On top of all that, here’s one more doggone rule to keep in mind: If you insist on bringing your dog to Yosemite, you are responsible for cleaning up after him or her, and you must deposit all “deposits” into the nearest trash receptacle.
The bottom line: Your dog will be happier somewhere else.
The Yosemite Valley Medical Clinic (Ahwahnee Dr., Yosemite Valley, 209/372-4637) can handle most emergencies big and small. In fact, they handle about 9,000 of them every year. The clinic has an experienced nursing staff, emergency physicians, a nurse practitioner, and support staff on duty. Emergency care is available 24 hours a day; drop-in and urgent care are available daily 8am-7pm. The nearest hospitals are in Sonora, Oakhurst, Merced, and Mammoth Lakes.
By far the biggest dangers to be faced in Yosemite are those created by visitors who don’t follow posted rules and regulations. If a sign states “Stay Back from the Edge,” obey it. Be wary of waterfalls, slick hiking trails, and cliffs and ledges with steep drop-offs. Remain on the trails to avoid getting lost or getting yourself into a hazardous situation. Always carry a good map. If you are heading out for a hike, tell someone where you are going and when you will be back. Carry a day pack with all the essentials for a day out and a few emergencies.
Always carry water with you or be able to filter or purify water from natural sources like lakes, rivers, or streams. The high-elevation air in the Sierra Nevada, combined with heat and/or wind, will dehydrate you much faster than you expect. Never, ever drink water from a natural source without purifying it. The microscopic organism Giardia lamblia, as well as other types of bacteria, may be found in backcountry water sources and can cause a litany of gastrointestinal problems. Only purifying, sterilizing, or boiling water from natural sources will eliminate these bad bugs.
Carrying several large bottles of water is heavy and cumbersome, so if you are hiking for more than a few hours, it may be impossible to bring enough water with you. A purifier or filtering device can substantially lighten your load. A favorite of many day hikers and backpackers is the Steripen, a purifier that sterilizes water using ultraviolet light. Dip your widemouthed water bottle into a lake or stream, then turn on your Steripen, immerse it in your bottle, and stir it around. In about 90 seconds, you have water that’s safe to drink.
Other options include the bottle-style filters, such as the Exstream made by Katadyn, which are almost as light as an empty plastic bottle and eliminate the need to carry both a filter and a bottle. Dip the bottle in the stream, screw on the top (which has a filter inside it), and squeeze the bottle to drink. The water is filtered on its way out of the squeeze top.
“Old-school” ceramic water filters also work well, especially if you are filtering large amounts of water. Several companies such as Katadyn, Vario, and MSR make these types of ceramic filters.
Many hikers experience shortness of breath when hiking only a few thousand feet higher than the elevation at which they live. If you live on the California coast, you may notice slightly labored breathing while hiking at an elevation as low as 4,000 feet (the exact elevation of Yosemite Valley). As you go higher, it may get worse, sometimes leading to headaches and nausea. It takes a full 72 hours to acclimate to major elevation changes, although most people feel better after 24-48 hours.
The best preparation for hiking at high elevation is to sleep at that elevation, or as close to it as possible, the night before. If you are planning a strenuous hike at 7,000 feet or above, spend a day or two beforehand taking easier hikes at the same elevation. Get plenty of rest and drink plenty of fluids. Lack of sleep and drinking alcohol can contribute to a susceptibility to “feeling the altitude,” which for most people simply means they feel like they are constantly struggling to catch their breath as they hike, especially going uphill.
Serious altitude sickness typically occurs above 10,000 feet. It is generally preventable by simply allowing enough time for acclimation. Staying fully hydrated and fueled with food will also help. If you start to feel ill (nausea, vomiting, severe headache), you are experiencing altitude sickness. Some people can get by with taking aspirin and trudging onward, but if you are seriously ill, the only cure is to descend as soon as possible.
If you see or hear a thunderstorm approaching, avoid exposed ridges and peaks. This may be disheartening advice when you’re only a mile from the summit of Clouds Rest or Mount Hoffmann, but follow it anyway. If you’re already on a mountaintop when a thunderstorm is threatening, stay out of enclosed places such as rock caves and recesses. Confined areas can be deadly in lightning storms. Do not lean against rock slopes or trees; try to keep a few feet of air space around you. Squat low on your boot soles, or sit on your day pack, jacket, or anything that will insulate you in case lightning strikes the ground.