Photos (clockwise from top left): Baba Ghanoush; Vietnamese Summer Rolls; Blistered Shishito Peppers; Baguette with Radishes, Butter, and Herbs; Caprese Skewers
Why This Recipe Works Paired with fresh summer vegetables, whole-grain crackers, or crispy pita chips, hummus is a delicious dip to add to your patio party spread or to pack for a picnic—but you can also just eat it for dinner on a hot night. Classic hummus is composed of simple ingredients: chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, garlic, and lemon juice. But many traditional recipes are surprisingly complex. We wanted a streamlined recipe for hummus with a light, silky-smooth texture and balanced flavor profile. We used convenient canned chickpeas and our food processor to quickly turn them into a smooth puree. But when we pureed the chickpeas alone, the hummus turned out grainy. The key to the best texture was to create an emulsion. We ground the chickpeas and then slowly added a mixture of water and lemon juice. We whisked the olive oil and tahini together and drizzled the mixture into the chickpeas while processing; this created a lush, light puree. Earthy cumin, garlic, and a pinch of cayenne kept the flavors balanced. If desired, garnish the hummus with 1 tablespoon of minced fresh cilantro or parsley and/or 2 tablespoons of reserved whole chickpeas. Serve with Pita Chips (this page) or Crudités (this page).
¼ cup water, plus extra as needed
3 tablespoons lemon juice
6 tablespoons tahini
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed
1 small garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
Pinch cayenne pepper
1. Combine water and lemon juice in small bowl. In separate bowl, whisk tahini and oil together.
2. Process chickpeas, garlic, salt, cumin, and cayenne in food processor until almost fully ground, about 15 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl with rubber spatula. With machine running, add lemon juice mixture in steady stream. Scrape down sides of bowl and continue to process for 1 minute. With machine running, add tahini mixture in steady stream and process until hummus is smooth and creamy, about 15 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.
3. Transfer hummus to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature until flavors meld, about 30 minutes. (Hummus can be refrigerated for up to 5 days; adjust consistency with up to 1 tablespoon warm water as needed.) Serve.
VARIATIONS
Artichoke-Lemon Hummus
While we prefer the flavor and texture of jarred whole baby artichokes, you can substitute 4½ ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry, for the jarred.
Omit cumin and increase lemon juice to ¼ cup (2 lemons). Add ¾ cup drained jarred whole artichoke hearts, patted dry, and ¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest to food processor with chickpeas. Garnish hummus with additional ¼ cup drained jarred whole artichoke hearts, patted dry and chopped, and 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley or mint.
Roasted Garlic Hummus
Remove outer papery skins from 2 heads garlic; cut top quarters off heads and discard. Wrap garlic in aluminum foil and roast in 350-degree oven until browned and very tender, about 1 hour; let cool, then squeeze out cloves from skins (you should have about ¼ cup). Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and 2 thinly sliced garlic cloves in 8-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden brown, about 15 minutes; transfer garlic slices to paper towel–lined plate and reserve oil. Substitute garlic cooking oil for olive oil in step 1. Add roasted garlic to food processor with chickpeas. Garnish hummus with toasted garlic slices and 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley.
Roasted Red Pepper Hummus
Omit water and cumin. Add ¼ cup jarred roasted red peppers, rinsed and patted dry, to food processor with chickpeas. Garnish hummus with 2 tablespoons toasted sliced almonds and 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley.
INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT
CANNED CHICKPEAS
Chickpeas are incredibly versatile, and the canned variety requires no soaking or involved prep, making them an ideal key player in quick summer salads, soups, dips, and more. We use them all the time to impart dishes with added protein, substance, and texture. Our favorite canned chickpeas are Goya Chickpeas/Garbanzos for their nicely seasoned, slight nutty flavor and firm-tender texture.
Why This Recipe Works A creamy bean dip packed with garden-fresh flavor is a perfect summertime appetizer, but many bean dips turn out gluey rather than creamy. We sought lower-starch peas to balance high-starch butter beans (also known as lima beans). This addition turned the dip an appealing green, and we decided to play up the fresh flavors with scallion and mint for a flavorful dip that is a pleasant change from the typical drab version. Greek yogurt also helped round out the texture of our dip, while garlic and lemon zest and juice added complex flavors. We like whole Greek yogurt here, but you can use 2 percent or 0 percent. Serve with Pita Chips (this page) or Crudités (this page).
1 small garlic clove, minced
¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 2 tablespoons juice, divided
1 cup frozen baby peas, thawed and patted dry, divided
1 scallion, white and light-green parts cut into ½-inch pieces, green part sliced thin on bias
¼ cup fresh mint leaves
¾ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
Pinch cayenne pepper
¼ cup plain Greek yogurt
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
1. Combine garlic and lemon zest and juice in small bowl; set aside for at least 15 minutes. Set aside 2 tablespoons peas for garnish.
2. Pulse butter beans, reserved liquid, scallion whites and light greens, mint, salt, coriander, cayenne, lemon juice mixture, and remaining peas in food processor until fully ground, 5 to 10 pulses. Scrape down bowl with rubber spatula. Continue to process until uniform paste forms, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl twice. Add yogurt and continue to process until smooth and homogeneous, about 15 seconds, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer to serving bowl, cover, and let stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 1 day. Let refrigerated dip stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.)
3. Season with salt to taste. Sprinkle with reserved peas and scallion greens. Drizzle with oil and serve.
Why This Recipe Works Traditional muhammara is a sweet-smoky blend of roasted red peppers, toasted walnuts, pomegranate molasses, and spices popular in Turkish and Syrian cuisine. A true multiuse recipe bursting with flavor, it makes a perfect chilled condiment in the summer, upgrading all kinds of meals from grilled fish to sandwiches. It also makes a great dip for crudités or crackers. Our simple version incorporates shredded beets, which gives the mixture a splendid eye-catching color that’s right at home on a lively summer table. Many beet recipes require long oven roasting, but here we simply used the microwave to soften the shredded beets before processing them with some walnuts, which helped thicken the mixture. Jarred roasted peppers added smokiness without any hassle, and some pomegranate molasses gave the dip its hallmark sweet yet slightly bitter flavor. Pomegranate molasses can be found in the international aisle of well-stocked supermarkets; if you can’t find it, substitute 1 tablespoon lemon juice plus 1 tablespoon mild molasses for the 2 tablespoons of pomegranate molasses. You can use the large holes of a box grater or a food processor fitted with a shredding disk to shred the beets. Serve with Pita Chips (this page) or Crudités (this page).
8 ounces beets, trimmed, peeled, and shredded
1 cup jarred roasted red peppers, rinsed and patted dry
1 cup walnuts, toasted
1 scallion, sliced thin
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
2 teaspoons lemon juice
¾ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon ground cumin
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. Microwave beets in covered bowl, stirring often, until beets are tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer beets to fine-mesh strainer set over bowl and let drain for 10 minutes.
2. Process drained beets, peppers, walnuts, scallion, oil, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, salt, cumin, and cayenne in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.
3. Transfer mixture to serving bowl. Season with salt to taste. (Muhammara can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)
Baba Ghanoush
Serves 8 (Makes about 2 cups)MAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Baba ghanoush is a meze staple across Israel, Lebanon, Palestine, and beyond. We love it in the summer as a chilled or room-temperature dip that can be made in advance to have on hand for a hot-day snack. It’s typically made by concentrating the rich flavors of eggplant over an open flame before scraping and mashing the pulp into a dip seasoned with any number of regional spices and oils, but we decided to prepare it in the oven for the sake of convenience. We pricked the eggplants’ skin to help moisture evaporate during cooking and then roasted them whole until the flesh was very soft and tender. To avoid a watery texture in the finished dish, we scooped the hot pulp into a colander to drain before processing it. We kept the flavorings simple, choosing lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, and tahini. Look for eggplants with shiny, taut, and unbruised skins and an even shape (eggplants with a bulbous shape won’t cook evenly). We prefer to serve baba ghanoush only lightly chilled; if cold, let it stand at room temperature for about 20 minutes before serving. Serve with Pita Chips (this page), fresh warm pita, or Crudités (this page).
2 eggplants (1 pound each), pricked all over with fork
2 tablespoons tahini
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
4 teaspoons lemon juice
1 small garlic clove, minced
¾ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Place eggplants on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and roast, turning eggplants every 15 minutes, until uniformly soft when pressed with tongs, 40 minutes to 1 hour. Let eggplants cool for 5 minutes on sheet.
2. Set colander over bowl. Trim top and bottom off each eggplant and slit eggplants lengthwise. Using spoon, scoop hot pulp into colander (you should have about 2 cups pulp); discard skins. Let pulp drain for 3 minutes.
3. Transfer drained eggplant to food processor. Add tahini, oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pulse mixture to coarse puree, about 8 pulses. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Transfer to serving bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours; bring to room temperature before serving.)
Why This Recipe Works There’s no shortage of preparations for farm-fresh eggplant in the height of summer, but caponata—a boldly flavored eggplant relish with sweet and sour notes—is a perfect addition to a picnic or summer soiree. To make sure the eggplant didn’t turn to oil-soaked mush, we salted and microwaved it to eliminate excess moisture. Starting with bright tomatoey V8 juice added concentrated tomato flavor, and brown sugar and red wine vinegar gave us the traditional sweet-and-sour profile. Raisins brought additional sweetness, minced anchovies added a rich umami boost, and briny black olives offered balance. Simmering everything together allowed the mixture to thicken and the flavors to meld. Although we prefer the complex flavor of V8 juice, tomato juice can be substituted. If coffee filters are not available, food-safe, undyed paper towels can be substituted when microwaving the eggplant. Be sure to remove the eggplant from the microwave immediately so that the steam can escape. Serve caponata with slices of toasted baguette, alongside grilled meat or fish, mixed into pasta, or spooned over polenta.
1½ pounds eggplant, cut into ½-inch pieces
½ teaspoon table salt
¾ cup V8 juice
¼ cup red wine vinegar, plus extra for seasoning
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1½ teaspoons minced anchovy fillets (2 to 3 fillets)
1 large tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped
¼ cup raisins
2 tablespoons minced black olives
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 celery rib, chopped fine
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine
1 small onion, chopped fine
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
1. Toss eggplant with salt in bowl. Line entire surface of large microwave-safe plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer on coffee filters. Microwave until eggplant is dry and shriveled to one-third of its original size, 8 to 15 minutes (eggplant should not brown). Transfer eggplant immediately to paper towel–lined plate.
2. Meanwhile, whisk V8 juice, vinegar, parsley, sugar, and anchovies together in medium bowl. Stir in tomato, raisins, and olives.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until edges are browned, 4 to 8 minutes, adding 1 teaspoon more oil if pan appears dry; transfer to bowl.
4. Add remaining 2 teaspoons oil to now-empty skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add celery, bell pepper, and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and edges are spotty brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
5. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in eggplant and V8 juice mixture. Bring to simmer and cook until V8 juice is thickened and coats vegetables, 4 to 7 minutes. Transfer to serving bowl and let cool to room temperature. (Caponata can be refrigerated for up to 1 week; let come to room temperature before serving.)
Tzatziki
Serves 8 (Makes about 2 cups)NO COOKMAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Tzatziki is a traditional Greek sauce made from strained yogurt and cucumber, as delicious eaten as a dip for raw vegetables as it is dolloped over some of our favorite summer mains like grilled chicken or lamb. To make our own classic version of this light, super fresh sauce, we started by shredding a cucumber on a coarse grater, salting it, and letting it drain to keep any excess liquid from watering down the dip. Greek yogurt gives tzatziki its pleasant tang and richness, but before stirring in our drained cucumber, we enhanced its flavor with minced fresh herbs and garlic. Using Greek yogurt here is key; do not substitute regular plain yogurt or the sauce will be very watery. Serve with Pita Chips (this page), fresh warm pita, or Crudités (this page).
1 (12-ounce) cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and shredded
½ teaspoon table salt
1 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint and/or dill
1 small garlic clove, minced
1. Toss cucumber with salt in colander and let drain for 15 minutes.
2. Whisk yogurt, oil, mint, and garlic together in bowl, then stir in drained cucumber. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour or up to 2 days. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
VARIATION
Beet Tzatziki
Reduce amount of cucumber to 6 ounces and add 6 ounces raw beets, peeled and grated, to cucumber and salt in step 1.
Tabbouleh
Serves 4 to 6NO COOK
Why This Recipe Works Tabbouleh is a picnic-perfect salad bursting with some of summer’s most ubiquitous flavors. Made of bulgur, parsley, tomato, and onion steeped in a penetrating mint and lemon dressing, it’s a lively companion to grilled meats, vegetable-packed sandwiches, entertaining spreads, and more. We started by salting the tomatoes to rid them of excess moisture that otherwise made our salad soggy. Soaking the bulgur in lemon juice and some of the drained tomato liquid, rather than in water, allowed it to absorb lots of flavor as it softened. Chopped onion overwhelmed the salad; two mild scallions added just the right amount of oniony flavor. Parsley, mint, and a bit of cayenne pepper rounded out the dish. Adding the herbs and vegetables while the bulgur was still soaking gave the components time to mingle, resulting in a cohesive dish. Don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which has a much longer cooking time and will not work in this recipe. Serve with crisp romaine lettuce and warm pita.
3 tomatoes, cored and cut into ½-inch pieces
½ teaspoon table salt, divided
½ cup medium-grind bulgur, rinsed
¼ cup lemon juice (2 lemons), divided
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1½ cups minced fresh parsley
½ cup minced fresh mint
2 scallions, sliced thin
1. Toss tomatoes with ¼ teaspoon salt in fine-mesh strainer set over bowl and let drain, tossing occasionally, for 30 minutes; reserve 2 tablespoons drained tomato juice. Toss bulgur with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and reserved tomato juice in bowl and let sit until grains begin to soften, 30 to 40 minutes.
2. Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, oil, cayenne, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt together in large bowl. Add tomatoes, bulgur, parsley, mint, and scallions and toss gently to combine. Cover and let sit at room temperature until flavors have blended and bulgur is tender, about 1 hour.
VARIATION
Spiced Tabbouleh
Add ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon ground allspice to dressing with cayenne.
Serves 8 (Makes about 2 cups)FASTNO COOKMAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Everyone loves a rich, cheesy dip to serve with crackers, chips, or bread. But in the heat of summer, so much richness can be unappealing. That’s why we love this salty feta dip with a whipped, light texture. To ensure that our dip that was loose enough to easily scoop up with soft pita, we processed the cheese with a few tablespoons of milk in addition to extra-virgin olive oil. We also rinsed the feta in water before processing to avoid an overly salty dip. A little garlic and lemon juice, along with 2 teaspoons of oregano, rounded out the flavors with freshness and savory herbal notes. Cow’s-milk feta makes a firmer dip that holds up well at room temperature; do not substitute sheep’s-milk feta, which is softer. Because feta is quite salty, avoid serving this dip with salted chips; Crudités (this page) and pita bread make great accompaniments.
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
¼ teaspoon minced garlic
8 ounces cow’s-milk feta cheese
3 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano
1. Combine lemon juice and garlic in small bowl and set aside. Break feta into rough ½-inch pieces and place in medium bowl. Add water to cover, then swish briefly to rinse. Transfer to fine-mesh strainer and drain well.
2. Transfer feta to food processor. Add milk and reserved lemon juice mixture and process until feta mixture resembles ricotta cheese, about 15 seconds. With processor running, slowly drizzle in 2 tablespoons oil. Continue to process until mixture has Greek yogurt–like consistency (some small lumps will remain), 1½ to 2 minutes, stopping once to scrape down bottom and sides of bowl. Add oregano and pulse to combine. Transfer dip to bowl. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.)
VARIATIONS
Whipped Feta Dip with Dill and Parsley
Substitute 1 tablespoon minced fresh dill (or mint, if desired) and 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley for oregano.
Whipped Feta and Roasted Red Pepper Dip
Substitute red wine vinegar for lemon juice. Reduce milk to 2 tablespoons. Add ¼ cup jarred roasted red peppers, chopped; ½ teaspoon smoked paprika; and pinch cayenne pepper with milk. Omit oregano.
Why This Recipe Works There’s no easier way to throw together an al fresco snack spread than serving up hummus, bean dips, vegetable dips, and salsas, and pita chips make for the perfect crispy, salty dippers. Store-bought pita chips are fine, but the homemade version is even better, and surprisingly easy. First, we separated each 8-inch pita into its two component layers. We seasoned the split rounds with olive oil and salt before stacking them and cutting them into wedges—much easier than seasoning each individual chip. They were perfectly cooked after only about 15 minutes in the oven, and luckily, we found that flipping the chips was unnecessary—they baked up evenly crisp and flavorful. Both white and whole-wheat pita breads will work well here. We prefer the larger crystal size of sea salt or kosher salt here; if using table salt, reduce the amount of salt by half.
4 (8-inch) pita breads
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Using kitchen shears, cut around perimeter of each pita and separate into 2 thin rounds.
2. Working with 1 round at a time, brush rough side generously with oil and sprinkle with salt. Stack rounds on top of one another, rough sides up, as you go. Using chef’s knife, cut pita stack into 8 wedges. Spread wedges, rough sides up and in single layer, on 2 rimmed baking sheets.
3. Bake until wedges are golden brown and crisp, about 15 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let cool before serving. (Pita chips can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.)
VARIATION
Rosemary-Parmesan Pita Chips
Reduce amount of salt to ½ teaspoon. Toss salt with ½ cup grated Parmesan and 2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary before sprinkling over pitas.
PREPARING PITA FOR CHIPS
1. Using kitchen shears or scissors, cut around perimeter of each pita to yield 2 thin rounds.
2. Brush rough sides of each round with oil, season with salt, and stack them. Using chef’s knife, cut stack into 8 wedges.
Crudités
When done right, a platter of crudités can be a beautiful and versatile centerpiece for entertaining. For perfect crudités, you simply need to prep fresh vegetables properly: Some vegetables must first be blanched and then shocked in ice water; others benefit from being cut in a particular manner. To store crudités, refrigerate raw vegetables wrapped in damp paper towels in a zipper-lock bag and blanched vegetables in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
Asparagus To remove the tough, fibrous ends of the asparagus, bend the thick end of each stalk until it snaps off. Blanch the asparagus for 30 to 60 seconds.
Broccoli and Cauliflower Cut broccoli and cauliflower florets into bite-size pieces by slicing down through stem. Blanch broccoli and cauliflower (separately) for 1 to 1½ minutes.
Carrots and Celery Slice both celery and peeled carrots lengthwise into long, elegant lengths rather than short, stumpy pieces.
Endive Gently pull off leaves one at a time, continuing to trim root end as you work your way toward heart of endive.
Green Beans Line beans up in a row and trim off inedible stem ends with just 1 cut. Blanch beans for 1 minute.
Peppers Slice off top and bottom of pepper and remove seeds and stem. Slice down through side of pepper, unroll it so that it lies flat, then slice into ½-inch-wide strips.
Radishes Choose radishes with green tops still attached so that each half has a leafy handle for grasping and dipping. Slice each radish in half through stem.
BLANCHING DIRECTIONS
Bring 6 quarts water and 2 tablespoons table salt to boil in large pot over high heat. Cook vegetables, 1 variety at a time, until slightly softened but still crunchy at core, following times given for individual vegetables immediately to bowl of ice water until completely cool, then drain and pat dry.
Summer Cheese Board
BUILDING THE PERFECT PLATE
A cheese board is an uncontested winner when it comes to easy, elegant entertaining, and makes an especially appealing no-cook option in the summer months. For much of the year, we dress up our board with fruit like apples and pears, jams, and other accompaniments. For a summery take, we opt for lighter additions and in-season fruit like berries and cherries. Choosing the right cheeses and pairing them with complementary crackers, spreads, and other bite-sized goodies is a simple formula to putting together a party centerpiece that everyone is sure to enjoy. But striking the perfect balance of flavors, textures, and aesthetic appeal is something of an art, especially when time is of the essence.
Think about cheeses Start by choosing three to five cheeses with different textures (soft, semisoft, semifirm, hard) and flavors (mild to strong). Include cow’s-milk, goat’s-milk, and sheep’s-milk cheeses, or go with all of one type. Plan on 2 to 3 ounces of cheese per person and let the cheese sit at room temperature, covered, for 1 to 2 hours before serving.
Think about breads Mild-flavored bread such as a baguette and neutral-tasting chips like Pita Chips (this page) or wheat crackers won’t overshadow the cheeses.
Think about texture Crisp vegetables like Quick Pickled Carrots can add contrast to soft cheeses. The texture of soft fresh berries and chewy dried fruits works with hard cheeses. Crunchy nuts also add texture.
Think about flavor Select cheese accompaniments that are either complementary, like a mellow caramelized onion relish with a mild fresh cheese, or contrasting, like fruity Fig-Balsamic Jam with a salty, sharp aged cheese.
Think about appearance Fresh cherries and grapes, dried fruits, pickled vegetables, and olives add color as well as texture and flavor.
Marinated Olives
Serves 8
You can buy a wide variety of prepared olive products, but with just a little effort you can put together marinated olives with a lot more flavor and freshness. Make sure to bring the mixture to room temperature before serving or the oil will look cloudy and congealed.
1 cup brine-cured green olives with pits
1 cup brine-cured black olives with pits
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, minced
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano
1 garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon table salt
Pat olives dry with paper towels. Toss with oil, shallot, lemon zest, thyme, oregano, garlic, pepper flakes, and salt in bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 4 days. Let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Quick Pickled Carrots
Serves 6 to 8 (Makes one 1-pint jar)
These quick-pickled carrot sticks are a cinch to put together and are ready to enjoy in just 3 hours, making them a great introduction to pickling for anyone new to the craft. We love them as a touch of bright color on a cheese board, perfect for popping into your mouth between bites of cheese for a briny, tangy burst of flavor. If possible, choose carrots that are uniform in length. These pickled carrots cannot be processed for long-term storage.
¾ cup seasoned rice vinegar
¼ cup water
1 garlic clove, peeled and halved
⅛ teaspoon black peppercorns
⅛ teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
8 ounces carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick sticks
2 sprigs fresh tarragon
1. Bring vinegar, water, garlic, peppercorns, and mustard seeds to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat.
2. Place one 1-pint jar under hot running water until heated through, about 1 minute; shake dry. Pack carrots and tarragon sprigs into hot jar. Using funnel and ladle, pour hot brine over carrots to cover. Let jar cool completely, about 30 minutes.
3. Cover jar with lid and refrigerate for at least 2½ hours before serving. (Pickled carrots can be refrigerated for up to 6 weeks; tarragon will begin to taste funky after 6 weeks.)
Fig-Balsamic Jam
Serves 8 to 10 (Makes about 1 cup)
Combining fresh figs with balsamic vinegar and spices makes a sweet-savory jam perfect for cheese and delicious with canapés.
12 ounces fresh figs, stemmed and quartered
½ cup sugar
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
¾ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
Pinch table salt
Pinch pepper
1. Bring all ingredients to simmer in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until rubber spatula leaves distinct trail when dragged across bottom of skillet, 25 to 30 minutes.
2. Transfer jam to food processor and pulse until uniformly chunky, 4 to 6 pulses. Let jam cool to room temperature, about 1 hour, before serving. (Jam can be refrigerated for up to 2 months.)
Cheese Straws
Serves 4 to 6
Homemade cheese straws are quick to disappear from a party platter. To thaw frozen puff pastry, let it sit in the refrigerator for 24 hours or on the counter for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
1 (9½ by 9-inch) sheet puff pastry, thawed
2 ounces Parmesan or aged Asiago cheese, grated (1 cup)
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Lay puff pastry on second sheet of parchment and sprinkle with Parmesan, parsley, salt, and pepper. Top with third sheet of parchment. Using rolling pin, press cheese mixture into pastry, then roll pastry into 10-inch square.
3. Remove top sheet of parchment and cut pastry into thirteen ¾-inch-wide strips with sharp knife or pizza wheel. Gently twist each strip of pastry and space about ½ inch apart on prepared baking sheet.
4. Bake until cheese straws are fully puffed and golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Let cheese straws cool completely on baking sheet. (Cheese straws can be wrapped in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours before serving.)
Why This Recipe Works Few food pairings are more perfect than savory, salty prosciutto and sweet fresh figs. Even better? These crowd-pleasing bites require no cooking—they’re last-minute hors d’oeuvres that you can throw together without heating up the kitchen. To add another level of sweet-salty complexity and textural interest to this appetizer, we incorporated bold, pungent blue cheese and golden honey into the mix. We started by halving the figs to make them easier to eat. Tasters preferred creamy, assertive Gorgonzola. Small mounds of the cheese, placed in the center of each fig before adding the honey, offered a rich, bold counterpoint to the figs’ tender flesh and sweet flavor. Briefly microwaving the honey ensured that it was easy to drizzle over the cheese-stuffed figs. Finally, we wrapped the whole thing in thin slices of prosciutto. To guarantee that the ham would stay put, we stuck a toothpick through the center of each fig. Be sure to choose ripe figs for this recipe. They not only taste best, but they also yield easily when mounding the blue cheese gently into the centers.
2 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
16 fresh figs, stemmed and halved lengthwise
1 tablespoon honey
16 thin slices prosciutto, halved lengthwise
Mound 1 teaspoon Gorgonzola into center of each fig half. Microwave honey in bowl to loosen, about 10 seconds, then drizzle over cheese. Wrap prosciutto securely around figs, leaving fig ends uncovered. Secure prosciutto with toothpick and serve. (Wrapped figs can be refrigerated for up to 8 hours. Let come to room temperature before serving.)
Caprese Skewers
Serves 10FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works There’s nothing that says summer more than the classic combination of bright tomatoes, fresh basil, and creamy mozzarella. For an appetizer take on the caprese salad, we used toothpicks to stand bite-size portions of the components upright on a halved grape tomato pedestal. We found that a quick garlic-infused oil, which we made by mincing garlic into a paste and stirring it into fruity extra-virgin olive oil, boosted the flavor of the tomatoes and fresh baby mozzarella balls, as did a bit of salt and pepper. Basil leaves, skewered onto our toothpicks whole, completed the caprese flavor profile and added a fresh-from-the-garden touch. You will need about 40 sturdy wooden toothpicks for this recipe; avoid using very thin, flimsy toothpicks. Placing a halved grape tomato, with its flat side facing down, on the bottom of the toothpick makes it easy to stand the skewers upright on a serving platter. You can use larger fresh mozzarella balls, but they should be cut into ¾- to 1-inch pieces.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
10 ounces grape or cherry tomatoes, halved
8 ounces baby mozzarella balls, halved
1 cup fresh basil leaves
1. Combine oil, garlic, salt, and pepper in small bowl. Toss tomatoes and mozzarella with 2 tablespoons of garlic oil in separate bowl.
2. Skewer tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil leaves on sturdy wooden toothpicks in following order from top to bottom: tomato half, basil leaf (folded if large), mozzarella half, and tomato half with flat side facing down. (You should have about 40 skewers.) Stand skewers upright on serving platter. Drizzle remaining garlic oil over skewers and serve.
Blistered Shishito Peppers
Serves 4 to 6FAST
Why This Recipe Works Fried blistered little chile peppers that you pick up by the stems and pop into your mouth whole are a trendy bar snack, but we thought they’d be just as at home as one-bite vegetable hors d’oeuvres. Shishitos are the Japanese cousin to Spain’s Padrón chiles, which are prevalent at tapas restaurants. You’ll find them cropping up at farm stands in the summer months, and they’re also easy to grow yourself in your home garden—you just need good-quality soil and a sunny location. These bright-tasting, citrusy, mild green chiles are thin-skinned and crisp-textured and altogether addictive. Restaurants often deep-fry the whole shishitos, but we found that cooking them in a small amount of oil worked just as well and was much less messy. The larger granules of kosher salt sprinkled on top add a wonderful crunch, but you can use regular table salt instead, if you prefer. It’s said that only one in 10 shishito peppers is truly spicy, so happy hunting!
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
8 ounces shishito peppers
Kosher salt
Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add shishito peppers and cook, without stirring, until skins are blistered, 3 to 5 minutes. Using tongs, flip peppers and continue to cook until blistered on second side, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to serving bowl, season with salt to taste, and serve immediately.
Bruschetta with Arugula Pesto and Goat Cheese Topping
Serves 8 to 10FAST
Why This Recipe Works Bruschetta might seem too simple to be the star of the show, but with the right toppings and presentation, this classic Italian antipasto can go way beyond chopped tomatoes and basil and bring a huge spectrum of summer flavors to the table. Classic bruschetta starts with wide slices of simple toasted garlic bread, usually from a rustic Italian or similar loaf. Many bruschetta recipes result in soggy bread, especially once substantial toppings are added. Bread choice is key to fixing this—we used a crusty loaf of country-style bread with a tight crumb so the toppings wouldn’t fall through and we cut the bread into thick slices for maximum support. Presented here are a few of our favorite bright, flavorful toppings for this infinitely customizable appetizer. Toast the bread just before assembling the bruschetta.
Toasts
1 loaf country bread, ends discarded, sliced crosswise into ¾-inch-thick pieces
½ garlic clove, peeled
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
Arugula Pesto and Goat Cheese Topping
5 ounces (5 cups) baby arugula
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 teaspoon juice
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
1. For the toasts Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Place bread on aluminum foil–lined baking sheet. Broil until bread is deep golden on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Lightly rub 1 side of each slice with garlic and brush with oil. Season with salt to taste.
2. For the arugula pesto and goat cheese topping Pulse arugula, oil, pine nuts, shallot, lemon zest and juice, salt, and pepper in food processor until mostly smooth, about 8 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Spread arugula mixture evenly on toasts, top with goat cheese, and drizzle with extra oil. Serve.
VARIATIONS
Bruschetta with Whipped Feta and Roasted Red Pepper Topping
Omit arugula pesto and goat cheese topping. Combine 24 ounces rinsed jarred roasted peppers, cut into ½ inch pieces, 1 minced garlic clove, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons sugar, ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, and ¼ teaspoon table salt in medium bowl; set aside. Process 8 ounces crumbled feta, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in food processor until smooth, about 10 seconds, scraping down bowl once during processing. Substitute feta mixture for arugula mixture and pepper mixture for goat cheese.
Bruschetta with Ricotta, Tomato, and Basil Topping
We prefer the rich flavor of whole-milk ricotta; however, part-skim ricotta can be substituted. Do not use fat-free ricotta.
Omit arugula pesto and goat cheese topping. Toss 1 pound quartered cherry tomatoes with 1 teaspoon table salt in colander and let drain for 15 minutes. Transfer drained tomatoes to bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, ¼ cup shredded fresh basil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. In separate bowl, combine 10 ounces whole-milk ricotta cheese and 1 tablespoon shredded fresh basil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Substitute ricotta mixture for arugula mixture and substitute tomato mixture for goat cheese.
Why This Recipe Works Smaller than bruschetta, crostini are an easy-yet-elegant appetizer that will impress your guests but that won’t take more than a few minutes away from setting the perfect summer table and mixing up some refreshing cocktails. There’s more to making great crostini than just putting cheese on toast. The right combination of ingredients can take this deceptively simple appetizer to a whole other level. In our version, Serrano ham, Manchego cheese, and artisanal bread come together to form an elegant yet stress-free Spanish-inspired starter. For the bread, we preferred a nutty artisanal loaf such as walnut or pecan with dried fruit to complement the cheese. Toasting the bread intensified its nutty flavor. Assembling the crostini was as easy as topping the bread with the ham and cheese and drizzling each toast with a mixture of honey, orange marmalade, and fresh thyme for a sweet-salty flavor contrast. The key to this recipe is using high-quality ingredients; be sure to use authentic Spanish Serrano ham and Manchego cheese. If you can’t find walnut or pecan bread, any variety of hearty artisanal-style nut and fruit bread would work here.
1 loaf artisanal-style walnut or pecan bread
¼ cup honey
1 tablespoon orange marmalade
½ teaspoon minced fresh thyme
8 ounces thinly sliced Serrano ham
4 ounces thinly sliced Manchego cheese
1. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Slice bread into ¼-inch-thick pieces; cut larger pieces in half if necessary. Lay bread on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Broil bread, 1 baking sheet at a time, until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side.
2. Combine honey, marmalade, and thyme. Top toasts with ham and Manchego, then drizzle with honey mixture. Serve.
Baguette with Radishes, Butter, and Herbs
Serves 8 to 12FASTNO COOK
Why This Recipe Works Leave it to the French to come up with one of the most indulgent, rustic-chic snacks of all time. Crusty baguette, farm-fresh radishes, and butter are a time-tested combination, and demand zero cooking and little time to prepare. We wanted to really highlight the vegetable in our version to take advantage of its peak season. We started by halving our loaf lengthwise and laying down just enough butter on top to coat both halves. Leaving the baguette whole allowed us to place more radishes on the bread and made for an impressive presentation. (Easter egg and watermelon radishes are especially pretty.) We shingled thinly sliced radishes all over in a fish-scale pattern, ensuring that each bite was packed with radish flavor. To coax even more flavor out of this dish, we made a simple compound butter with chives and cultured butter. And to complement the pepperiness of the radishes, we topped the baguette with a parsley salad for visual contrast and welcome brightness. Of course, this snack wouldn’t be complete without a generous sprinkle of sea salt. The success of this recipe depends on high-quality ingredients, including European-style butter, fresh baguette, and in-season radishes.
1. Combine butter, ¼ cup chives, salt, and pepper in bowl. Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons chives, lemon juice, and oil in second bowl. Add parsley and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Spread butter mixture over cut sides of baguette. Shingle radishes evenly over butter and top with parsley salad. Sprinkle with sea salt to taste. Cut baguette crosswise into 12 pieces. Serve.
Farmers’ Market Find Radishes
Radishes belong to the broccoli and kale family, and their strong flavor comes from the same compound that gives mustard and horseradish their pungency. Many varieties of radishes are available year-round in supermarkets but their best seasons are typically late spring into the fall. Try to buy radishes with crisp greens attached, a sign that the radishes are fresh. If they don’t have greens attached (often the case in stores), make sure the radishes are firm and their skin is smooth and not cracked. Avoid very large radishes, which can have a woody texture. Store radishes wrapped in paper towels in a loosely closed plastic produce bag in the refrigerator for about a week. Remove and store greens separately, wrapped in paper towels in a plastic produce bag.
Round Red is the most commonly seen color, but they also appear in s-hades of white, pink, and purple. The different colors are sometimes sold in a bunch and labeled as “Easter egg radishes.” Their flavor is sharp and bright and they have a juicy crunch.
French Breakfast These red-and-white radishes are an elongated version of regular round radishes. They are harvested primarily in the springtime and tend to have the mildest flavor of the various varieties.
Watermelon These magical-looking radishes have a pale green skin and a bright watermelon-pink interior, with a mildly spicy-sweet flavor. They are gorgeous raw—it’s a waste to cook these, since their striking coloring will fade.
Daikon Long and white, daikon is the most commonly available large radish variety. They are more typically served cooked, but they can also be eaten raw and have a mildly peppery flavor. Daikon radishes with their greens attached are freshly harvested and will have a more mellow flavor, and the greens are edible.
White Icicle This heirloom variety is long and slender, like its namesake, and has a sinus-clearing peppery quality and slow-burning heat.
Why This Recipe Works Any dish that comes with its own handle is bound to be an appetizer favorite, and this Southeast Asian dish of marinated, broiled chicken has deep flavor to match its convenient form. We set out to create a recipe for a simple but satisfying appetizer perfect for eating with your hands at a breezy summer gathering. For the marinade, we made a mixture of brown sugar, soy sauce, ketchup, and hot sauce that guaranteed moist, full-flavored meat. We chilled boneless chicken breasts, sliced into skewer-ready strips, in the marinade for about a half-hour before broiling them. The intense, direct heat of the broiler cooked the chicken strips through perfectly in under 10 minutes. A peanut dipping sauce with sweet, tart, and spicy elements echoed the marinade for a fresh, bright finish. Covering the exposed ends of the skewers with aluminum foil protects them from burning. Freezing the chicken for 30 minutes will make it easier to slice into strips. You will need thirty 6-inch wooden skewers for this recipe.
Skewers
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
¼ cup minced fresh cilantro
4 scallions, sliced thin
3 tablespoons ketchup
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon hot sauce
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and sliced diagonally into ¼-inch-thick strips
30 (6-inch) wooden skewers
Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce
½ cup peanut butter, creamy or chunky
¼ cup hot water
3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes)
2 scallions, sliced thin
2 tablespoons ketchup
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
1½ teaspoons hot sauce
1 garlic clove, minced
1. For the skewers Combine soy sauce, oil, sugar, cilantro, scallions, ketchup, garlic, and hot sauce in medium bowl, add chicken, and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Weave chicken onto skewers.
2. For the spicy peanut dipping sauce Whisk peanut butter and hot water together in medium bowl. Stir in lime juice, scallions, ketchup, soy sauce, sugar, cilantro, hot sauce, and garlic. Transfer to serving bowl.
3. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Lay skewers on prepared rack and cover skewer ends with foil. Broil until fully cooked, about 8 minutes, flipping skewers halfway through broiling. Serve with peanut sauce.
Why This Recipe Works Ceviche—a South American dish of raw seafood marinated in citrus juice until effectively “cooked”—is uniquely suited to hot summer nights; it’s a supereasy, incredibly light preparation of fish that requires no heat and is served chilled for a refreshing, cooling option. To create a flavorful yet balanced “cooking” liquid for our Peruvian fish ceviche, we made what’s known as a leche de tigre by blending lime juice, aji amarillo chile paste, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, and a small amount of fish to add savory depth to the marinade. Once strained, the liquid was an intensely flavorful and silky-textured emulsion. We then soaked thinly sliced and briefly salted fish (red snapper, sea bass, halibut, and grouper were all good options) in the leche for 30 to 40 minutes until it was just opaque and slightly firm. To complete the dish, we added sweet oranges; crisp, peppery radishes; and chopped cilantro. We served the ceviche with corn nuts and popcorn, which provided salty crunch. It is imperative that you use the freshest fish possible in this recipe. Do not use frozen fish. Sea bass, halibut, or grouper can be substituted for the snapper, if desired. Aji amarillo chile paste can be found in the Latin section of grocery stores; if you can’t find it, you can substitute 1 stemmed and seeded habanero chile. Serving the popcorn and corn nuts separately allows diners to customize their ceviche to suit their taste.
1 pound skinless red snapper fillets, ½ inch thick
3½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
¾ cup lime juice (6 limes)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon aji amarillo chile paste
2 garlic cloves, peeled
3 oranges
8 ounces radishes, trimmed, halved, and sliced thin
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup corn nuts
1 cup lightly salted popcorn
1. Using sharp knife, cut fish lengthwise into ½-inch-wide strips. Slice each strip crosswise ⅛ inch thick. Set aside ⅓ cup (2½ ounces) fish pieces. Toss remaining fish with 1 teaspoon salt and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes or up to 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, process reserved fish pieces, remaining 2½ teaspoons salt, lime juice, 2 tablespoons oil, chile paste, and garlic in blender until smooth, 30 to 60 seconds. Strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer set over large bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard solids. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours. It will separate slightly; whisk to recombine before proceeding with recipe.)
3. Cut away peel and pith from oranges. Holding fruit over bowl, use paring knife to slice between membranes to release segments. Cut orange segments into ¼-inch pieces. Add oranges, salted fish, and radishes to bowl with sauce and toss to combine. Refrigerate for 30 to 40 minutes (for more-opaque fish, refrigerate for 45 minutes to 1 hour).
4. Add cilantro to ceviche and toss to combine. Portion ceviche into individual bowls and drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Serve, passing corn nuts and popcorn separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
HOW TO BUY THE FRESHEST FISH
When making ceviche (or any dish in which the fish is not fully cooked), using the freshest seafood possible is imperative for both flavor and food safety reasons. Here’s what to look for:
Clean Smell The seafood (and the store or counter) should smell like the sea, not fishy or sour.
Shiny Surface Fillets should look bright and shiny; whole fish should have bright, clear eyes.
Firm Texture Fresh fish is firm. Ask your fishmonger to press the flesh with their finger; it should spring back.
Advice Ask your fishmonger what’s freshest that day, even if it’s not what you originally had in mind. Ceviche works with many different varieties of fish.
Grilled Clams, Mussels, or Oysters with Mignonette Sauce
Serves 4 to 6
Why This Recipe Works While steaming is an easy way to cook clams and mussels (oysters are often eaten raw on the half shell), grilling these bivalves is an appealing option, especially for summer entertaining. It’s also an incredibly simple preparation. Before we got to cooking, carefully scrubbing our shellfish was an important step for ridding them of any grit. The key to great bivalves on the grill was to not move the shellfish around too much and to handle them carefully once they open. You want to preserve the natural juices, so when the clams or mussels open, transfer them with tongs to a platter, holding them steady so as not to spill any of the liquid. Always look for tightly closed clams, mussels, and oysters (avoid any that are gaping; they may be dying or dead). The clams may take slightly longer to cook on a gas grill than they do on a charcoal grill. If you like, serve the clams with lemon wedges, hot sauce, and tomato salsa.
½ cup red wine vinegar
2 shallots, chopped fine, or ¼ cup finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving
1½ tablespoons minced fresh parsley
24 clams or oysters, or 30 to 35 mussels (about 2 pounds), scrubbed and debearded if cooking mussels
1. Mix together vinegar, shallots, lemon juice, and parsley in small serving bowl; set aside for serving.
2A. For a charcoal grill Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. For a gas grill Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high.
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place shellfish directly on cooking grate. Grill (covered if using gas) without turning, until shellfish open, 3 to 5 minutes for mussels and oysters or 6 to 10 minutes for clams.
4. With tongs, carefully transfer opened shellfish to flat serving platter, trying to preserve juices. Discard top shells and loosen meat in bottom shells before serving, if desired. Serve with mignonette sauce and lemon wedges.
Why This Recipe Works Smoked salmon is a tried-and-true choice for many a cocktail party, garden party, or patio soiree spread. We wanted to try our hand at coming up with a smoked salmon roll recipe that would be a light, visually appealing, and easy starter. A modest schmear of cream-cheese-and-sour-cream spread held the rolls together without weighing them down. We found that letting the cream cheese soften at room temperature before mixing the spread allowed it to blend easily with the other ingredients. To liven up the spread, we flavored it with lemon, shallot, capers, and chives or dill. Once the rolls were assembled, we garnished the top of each one with a single leaf of baby arugula; its peppery bite lent a welcome freshness.
1 tablespoon cream cheese, softened
1 tablespoon sour cream
½ teaspoon lemon juice
Pinch table salt
Pinch pepper
1 teaspoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon capers, rinsed and minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh chives or dill
9 thin slices smoked salmon
18 small leaves baby arugula
1. Mix cream cheese, sour cream, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in bowl until uniform, then stir in shallot, capers, and chives.
2. Spread cream cheese mixture evenly over slices of salmon. Roll salmon around cream cheese mixture. Transfer salmon rolls to airtight container and refrigerate for up to 4 hours.
3. When ready to serve, slice each salmon roll in half with sharp knife. Stand each roll on its cut end, garnish with arugula leaf, and serve.
INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT
SMOKED SALMON
Nova, Nova Scotia salmon, and lox are all generic terms for cold-smoked salmon, which is mostly what you find at the grocery store. Our favorite is Spence & Co. Traditional Scottish Style Smoked Salmon. Gravlax, not to be confused with lox, is salmon that has been cured under pressure.
Why This Recipe Works For the easiest-ever version of shrimp cocktail that serves a crowd, we bypassed the traditional method of poaching and instead used the high heat of the broiler and a spice rub to give the shrimp great flavor. The little bit of sugar in our simple rub caramelized quickly under the broiler, adding good color to the outside of the shrimp and helping to bring out the fresh, sweet shrimp flavor. Instead of a traditional horseradish cocktail sauce, we paired the broiled shrimp with a creamy and lemony tarragon sauce. Other fresh herbs, such as dill, basil, cilantro, or mint, can be substituted for the tarragon. It’s important to dry the shrimp thoroughly before tossing with the oil. We prefer to use jumbo shrimp here, but extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound) can be substituted; if using smaller shrimp, reduce the broiling time by 1 to 2 minutes.
Creamy Tarragon Sauce
¾ cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 scallions, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon
¼ teaspoon table salt
⅛ teaspoon pepper
Shrimp
¾ teaspoon table salt
¾ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon sugar
Pinch cayenne pepper
2 pounds jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per pound), peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1. For the creamy tarragon sauce Stir all ingredients together in serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate until flavors have blended, at least 30 minutes.
2. For the shrimp Adjust oven rack 3 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Combine salt, coriander, pepper, sugar, and cayenne in small bowl. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels, then toss with oil and spice mixture in large bowl.
3. Spread shrimp in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Broil shrimp until opaque and light golden in spots, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer shrimp to serving platter and serve with sauce.
Why This Recipe Works Shrimp cocktail is a timeless chilled appetizer perfect for passing around a summer gathering. But when we want something a little more exciting than the shrimp and standard cocktail sauce, we look to this popular Mexican version, which consists of cooked shrimp tossed with chopped vegetables in a bright tomato sauce. For tender, not rubbery, shrimp, we brought water to a boil before adding the shrimp so there’d be enough heat in the saucepan to cook them through. Cutting the shrimp into bite-size pieces made them easier to eat. For a well-balanced sauce with concentrated tomato flavor, we used V8, which was equal parts sweet and savory with a bit of tartness. Along with ketchup, lime juice, and hot sauce, the viscosity of the V8 gave the sauce body to nicely coat the shrimp. Cucumber and red onion added crunch, avocado added creaminess, and cilantro added freshness. The balanced flavor of Valentina, Cholula, or Tapatío hot sauce works best here. If using a spicier, vinegary hot sauce such as Tabasco, start with half the amount called for and adjust to your taste after mixing. Saltines are a traditional accompaniment, but tortilla chips or thick-cut potato chips are also good.
1¼ pounds large shrimp (26 to 30 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed
¼ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking shrimp
1 cup V8 juice, chilled
½ cup ketchup
3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes), plus lime wedges for serving
2 teaspoons hot sauce, plus extra for serving
½ English cucumber, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 cup finely chopped red onion
1 avocado, halved, pitted, and cut into ½-inch pieces
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
Saltines
1. Bring 3 cups water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Stir in shrimp and 1 tablespoon salt. Cover and let stand off heat until shrimp are opaque, about 5 minutes, shaking saucepan halfway through. Fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Transfer shrimp to ice bath and let cool for 3 to 5 minutes. Once cool, cut each shrimp crosswise into 3 pieces.
2. Combine V8 juice, ketchup, lime juice, hot sauce, and salt in medium bowl. Add cucumber, onion, and shrimp and stir until evenly coated. Stir in avocado and cilantro. Portion cocktail into individual bowls or glasses and serve immediately, passing saltines, lime wedges, and extra hot sauce separately.
Why This Recipe Works Springy noodles, crisp lettuce, fresh herbs, and some protein make Vietnamese summer rolls perfect for a satisfying chilled appetizer or light meal. We wanted a streamlined process for flavorful rolls at home. Using indirect heat kept the shrimp tender, and a quick dunk in cold water made the wrappers easy to work with. Three different herbs, a spicy peanut sauce, and a fish sauce and lime mixture (nuoc cham) rounded out the delicate flavors. You can omit the pork; double the amount of shrimp (use the same timing and amounts of water and salt), and place three shrimp halves on top of the scallions. If Thai basil is unavailable, increase the mint and cilantro to 1½ cups each. A wooden surface will draw moisture away from the wrappers, so assemble the rolls on your counter or a plastic cutting board. If the wrapper dries out while you are forming the rolls, moisten it with your dampened fingers. We like to alternate between dipping these rolls in Peanut-Hoisin Sauce and Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (recipe follows).
18 medium-large shrimp (31 to 40 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed
1 cup fresh mint leaves
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves and thin stems
1 cup Thai basil leaves
12 (8½-inch) round rice paper wrappers
12 leaves red or green leaf lettuce, thick ribs removed
2 scallions, sliced thin on bias
1. For the peanut-hoisin sauce Using mortar and pestle (or on cutting board using flat side of chef’s knife), mash Thai chile, garlic, and salt to fine paste. Transfer to medium bowl. Add water, peanut butter, hoisin, tomato paste, and vinegar and whisk until smooth.
2. For the summer rolls Bring 2 quarts water to boil in medium saucepan. Stir in noodles. Cook until noodles are tender but not mushy, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain noodles and rinse with cold water until cool. Drain noodles again, then spread on large plate to dry.
3. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in now-empty saucepan. Add pork and salt. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until thickest part of pork registers 150 degrees, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer pork to cutting board, reserving water.
4. Return water to boil. Add shrimp and cover. Let stand off heat until shrimp are opaque throughout, about 3 minutes. Drain shrimp and rinse with cold water until cool. Transfer to cutting board. Pat shrimp dry and halve lengthwise. Transfer to second plate.
5. When pork is cool enough to handle, cut each rib crosswise into 2-inch lengths. Slice each 2-inch piece lengthwise ⅛ inch thick (you should have at least 24 slices) and transfer to plate with shrimp. Tear mint, cilantro, and Thai basil into 1-inch pieces and combine in bowl.
6. Fill large bowl with cold water. Submerge 1 wrapper in water until wet on both sides, no longer than 2 seconds. Shake gently over bowl to remove excess water, then lay wrapper flat on counter (wrapper will be fairly stiff but will continue to soften as you assemble roll). Repeat with second wrapper and place next to first wrapper. Fold 1 lettuce leaf and place on lower third of first wrapper, leaving about ½-inch margin on each side. Spread ⅓ cup noodles on top of lettuce, then sprinkle with 1 teaspoon scallions. Top scallions with 2 slices pork. Spread ¼ cup herb mixture over pork.
7. Bring lower edge of wrapper up and over herbs. Roll snugly but gently until long sides of greens and noodles are enclosed. Fold in sides to enclose ends. Arrange 3 shrimp halves, cut side up, on remaining section of wrapper. Continue to roll until filling is completely enclosed in neat cylinder. Transfer roll to serving platter, shrimp side up, and cover with plastic wrap. Repeat with second moistened wrapper. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling, keeping completed rolls covered with plastic. Uncover, cut in half using a sharp, wet knife, and serve with sauce. (Leftovers can be wrapped tightly and refrigerated for up to 24 hours, but wrappers will become chewier and may break in places.)
HOW TO ROLL A SUMMER ROLL
1. Bring lower edge of wrapper up and over herbs.
2. Roll snugly but gently until greens and noodles are enclosed.
3. Fold in sides to enclose ends.
4. Arrange 3 shrimp halves, cut side up, on remaining wrapper. Continue to roll until filling is completely enclosed in neat cylinder.
Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (Nuoc Cham)
Serves 8 (Makes 1 cup)
Hot water helps the sugar dissolve into the sauce.
3 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 small Thai chile, stemmed and minced
1 garlic clove, minced
⅔ cup hot water
5 tablespoons fish sauce
¼ cup lime juice (2 limes)
Using mortar and pestle (or on cutting board using flat side of chef’s knife), mash 1 tablespoon sugar, Thai chile, and garlic to fine paste. Transfer to medium bowl and add hot water and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Stir in fish sauce and lime juice.
Chilled Cucumber and Yogurt Soup
Serves 6NO COOKMAKE AHEAD
Why This Recipe Works Both refreshing and elegant, this chilled soup is the perfect antidote for a swelteringly hot summer’s evening. But because it has so few ingredients, we knew that balance and finesse would be key, especially if the subtle vegetal flavor of the cucumbers was to shine through. A food processor turned our soup mushy, and hand-chopping all of the cucumber gave us something watery and inconsistent. We found that blending some of the cucumbers and reserving a final chopped handful as a garnish gave us the smooth consistency we wanted with texture to boot. Peeling and seeding the cucumbers removed any unpleasantly bitter flavors. We tried garlic, shallots, red onion, and scallions in the soup, but they were all too astringent; it was only after we left in just the scallion greens that we found the right balance. Tasters preferred dill and mint to other herb combinations, as they brought out the freshest aspect of this appealing soup. Serve in chilled bowls, if desired.
5 pounds cucumbers, peeled and seeded (1 cucumber cut into ½-inch pieces, remaining cucumbers cut into 2-inch pieces), divided
4 scallions, green parts only, chopped
2 cups water
2 cups plain Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1½ teaspoons table salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
Pinch pepper
1½ tablespoons minced fresh dill
1½ tablespoons minced fresh mint
Extra-virgin olive oil
1. Toss 2-inch pieces of cucumber with scallions. Working in 2 batches, process cucumber-scallion mixture in blender with water until completely smooth, about 2 minutes; transfer to large bowl. Whisk in yogurt, lemon juice, salt, sugar, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate to meld flavors, at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.
2. Stir in dill and mint and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve cold, topping individual portions with remaining ½-inch pieces of cucumber and drizzling with oil.
Why This Recipe Works Gazpacho—a chilled mixture of hand-cut vegetables marinated in seasoned vinegar—is perhaps the ultimate summer soup: fresh, light, and perfectly suited for leftovers to have on hand for lunch on a hot afternoon. Letting the diced vegetables sit briefly in a sherry vinegar marinade seasoned them thoroughly. A combination of tomato juice and ice cubes provided the right amount of liquid for the soup. A 4-hour chill was critical to allow the flavors of the soup to develop and meld. Luckily, this meant we could make the soup well in advance of a meal. Use a Vidalia, Maui, or Walla Walla onion here. This recipe makes enough for leftovers, but it can be halved if you prefer. Traditionally, diners garnish their gazpacho with more of the same diced vegetables that are in the soup, so cut some extra vegetables when preparing those in the recipe. Serve with Herbed Croutons, chopped pitted black olives, chopped Easy-Peel Hard-Cooked Eggs (this page), and finely diced avocados. Serve in chilled bowls, if desired.
1½ pounds tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch dice
2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice
2 small cucumbers (1 peeled, 1 unpeeled), sliced lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice
½ small sweet onion or 2 large shallots, minced
⅓ cup sherry vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons table salt
5 cups tomato juice
8 ice cubes
1 teaspoon hot sauce (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil
1. Combine tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, onion, vinegar, garlic, and salt in large (at least 4-quart) bowl and season with pepper to taste. Let sit until vegetables just begin to release their juices, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato juice, ice cubes, and hot sauce, if using. Cover and refrigerate to meld flavors, at least 4 hours or up to 2 days.
2. Discard any unmelted ice cubes and season soup with salt and pepper to taste. Divide into individual bowls, drizzling individual portions with oil. Serve cold.
VARIATION
Gazpacho with Avocado and Crab
Add 1 pound lump crab meat, picked over for shells, and 1 pitted, skinned, and diced avocado to bowls before serving.
Herbed Croutons
Makes about 2½ cups
Either fresh or stale bread can be used in this recipe.
1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley
½ teaspoon minced fresh thyme
4 slices hearty white sandwich bread, crusts removed, cut into ½-inch pieces
Melt butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add parsley and thyme; cook, stirring constantly, for 20 seconds. Add bread pieces and cook, stirring frequently, until light golden brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer croutons to paper towel–lined plate and season with salt and pepper to taste.
