Bread in the Middle East is found at just about every meal (the one exception I've noticed is for meals containing a rice dish). Bread is typically passed around the table and used as a utensil for eating food from a common dish (no forks/spoons/knives necessary!). The bread itself is always incredibly fresh, as in it was made that morning (stale bread has other uses; see Herb Salad with Tangy Dressing and Croutons (Fattoush) on page 48 and Creamy Chickpea and Yogurt Casserole (Tissiyeh or Fetteh bil Hummous) on page 80. The most common kind of bread eaten is flatbread, like Middle Eastern Flatbread (Khubz Arabi) on page 32, which is disc-shaped and hollow inside like a pita. It is usually not as thick and chewy as pita bread though; since it's eaten with most meals, it should be fresh and delicious but not filling, or you wouldn’t be able to eat anything else!
KHUBZ ARABI
This is the kind of bread that is present at just about every meal in the Middle East; forks and spoons may or may not be there, since this bread acts as both. Most meals are eaten family-style, with the food placed around the table (or on top of a newspaper-lined floor); this bread is then passed around and everyone digs in. This bread has a large pocket inside; this is because while cooking, steam causes the dough to puff up, and later when the bread is removed from the oven it cools and deflates, leaving a pocket. The trick to this is using a very hot oven. Like any bread, this is best eaten fresh the same day it’s made; however, if you let some get stale you can use it to make herb Salad with tangy Dressing and Croutons (page 48) or Creamy Chickpea and Yogurt Casserole (page 80).
Preparation Time: 35 minutes, plus about 2 hours to let the dough rise
Cooking Time: 25 minutes
Yields 10 large flatbreads
4½ tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons warm water
5 cups (650 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading
2 teaspoons fine salt
1 cup (250 ml) plus 2 tablespoons milk, room temperature
1 Brush ½ tablespoon of oil on the inside of a large bowl and set aside.
2 Mix together the yeast, sugar, and warm water in a small bowl until the sugar is dissolved.
3 whisk together the flour and salt in a large bowl.
use a wooden spoon to stir the yeast mixture into the dry ingredients, then stir in the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil. Stir in the milk.
4 turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 5 minutes; the dough is done being kneaded when you press a finger into it and the indentation remains.
5 transfer the dough to the oiled bowl and roll it gently to coat with oil. Cover the bowl with a slightly damp towel and let it sit until it’s doubled in size, about 1½ hours.
6 Gently deflate the dough, shape it back into a ball, and place it back into the bowl. Cover the bowl with a slightly damp towel and let sit until puffed, about 30 minutes.
7 Preheat the oven (from the lower heating elements) to 500˚F (260˚C) and position a rack in the lower 1/3 of the oven. Place a large baking sheet or a clay baking stone on the rack.
8 Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces and shape each into a ball. Place all the dough except 1 piece back into the bowl and cover with the towel. Lightly flour your work surface and, with a rolling pin, roll 1 piece of dough out to a circle about 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) in diameter.
9 transfer the rolled out dough to the preheated baking sheet or clay baking stone. Cook until it’s puffed and there are a few light golden spots on the bottom, about 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the bread to a cloth or paper-lined surface to cool completely.
10 Roll out the rest of the dough, and bake and cool it the same way. Wrap the cooled bread in a soft cloth or zip-top plastic bag to stay fresh.
KHUBZ BIL SIMSEM
I first had this bread with my husband at our favorite restaurant in Amman. Its tender crumb and chewy exterior make for a perfect loaf, not to mention that the sesame seeds add a deliciously subtle nutty flavor. It was literally all I could do not to fill up on this bread (along with olive oil, olives, and cheese) before dinner. Instead of sesame seeds, you can use nigella seeds (page 21) to sprinkle on top if you like.
Preparation Time: 20 minutes, plus about 1 hour, 45 minutes for the dough to rise
Cooking Time: 50 minutes
Yields 6 loaves
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons olive oil, divided
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1½ teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons warm water
3½ cups (500 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (250 ml) warm milk
2 teaspoons black or white sesame seeds (or a mix of both)
1 Brush 2 teaspoons oil on the inside of a large bowl and set aside.
2 Mix together the yeast, sugar, and warm water in a small bowl until the sugar is dissolved.
3 Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Whisk together 1 cup (250 ml) of warm water and the powdered milk in a small bowl; measure out 1 tablespoon and transfer it to a separate bowl to brush on the dough right before baking.
4 Stir the yeast mixture into the dry ingredients, then stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Gradually stir in the water/powdered milk mixture to form a ball (you might need a little more liquid to get the dough to come together; if so, add warm water 1 teaspoon at a time).
5 turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for a couple of minutes; the dough is done being kneaded when you can press a finger into it and the indentation remains.
6 transfer the dough to the oiled bowl and roll it gently to coat it with oil; cover the bowl with a towel and let it sit until it’s doubled in size (about 1½ hours). Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces, and roll into oval-shaped loaves, about 6 inches (15 cm) long and 3 inches (7.5 cm) wide.
7 Preheat the oven to 400˚F (200˚C). Line 3 large baking sheets with parchment paper (if you don’t have 3 large baking sheets, line up 3 pieces of parchment paper on the tabletop and transfer them to baking sheets as the sheets become available).
8 transfer the loaves to the prepared baking sheets (2 loaves per sheet) and lightly brush them with the reserved milk; sprinkle on the sesame seeds. Let them rest until they start to puff up, about 10 to 15 minutes.
9 Bake the loaves 1 sheet at a time until light golden brown, about 16 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
SFEEHA
This is another dish that varies greatly from family to family, even in the same area. Some prefer a short, crisp dough (that’s more like a pastry crust) and others like it on a leavened, bread-y dough. Some add pomegranate molasses or sumac for a refreshing tangy flavor, and others leave it out. This is my mother-in-law’s version, which I think is masterpiece. (note: if you can find them, decorating the tops of these pies with pomegranate arils is a fun play on the pomegranate molasses that’s in the recipe.)
The yogurt used in this recipe should be somewhat thick, but not as thick as Yogurt Cheese (page 73); you can use Greek-style yogurt or drain regular yogurt for a while in a cheesecloth-lined sieve.
Preparation Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 30 minutes
Yields 16 pies
1 batch Basic Savory Flat Pie Dough (page 26)
1 large onion
¾ lb (350 g) lean ground lamb or beef
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
6 tablespoons plain yogurt
2 tablespoons pine nuts
¾ teaspoon Meat Spice Mix (page 29)
¾ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Oil for the baking sheets and countertop
Plain yogurt (optional, for serving)
Fresh pomegranate seeds, to garnish (optional)
1 Prepare Basic Savory Flat Pie Dough and Meat Spice Mix.
2 Finely dice the onion, then transfer it to the bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times until it’s very finely minced but not puréed. Combine the onion, raw meat, pomegranate molasses, yogurt, pine nuts, Meat Spice Mix, salt, and black pepper in a large bowl. Refrigerate 30 minutes and then pour off any liquid that has accumulated in the bottom of the bowl.
3 Preheat oven to 400˚F (200˚C) and lightly brush 2 large baking sheets with oil (alternatively, you can line them with parchment paper or silpat liners).
4 Gently deflate the dough, then divide into 16 equal pieces and shape the pieces into balls; put the balls back into the bowl, cover the bowl with a slightly damp towel, and let sit 5 to 10 minutes. Lightly brush olive oil onto your countertop (or whatever surface you want to use to press out the dough).
5 work with 1 piece of dough at a time and use your hands to press it out on your oiled surface to a circle about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Line up the pies about 2 inches (5 cm) apart on the oiled baking sheets; scoop 3 tablespoons of the meat mixture onto each pie and spread it in an even layer, leaving a ¼-inch (6 mm) rim around the outside of the pie.
6 Bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 12 to 16 minutes, rotating the baking sheets once halfway through cooking.
7 Serve warm or at room temperature, alongside plain yogurt
if desired.
VARIATION
Spiced Meat Flat Pies with Tomato
Omit the yogurt and pine nuts from the meat mixture; instead add ¾ lb (350 g) finely diced, de-seeded tomatoes and ½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (if desired). Proceed with the rest of the recipe as written.
FATAYER BIL SABANEKH
Spinach turnovers is one of the many recipes that can be made with Basic Savory Flat Pie Dough (page 26). A combination of sumac and lemon juice gives these pastries a pleasant tang, and it’s common to see a bowl of fresh lemon wedges served alongside for squeezing into the turnovers for people who like them even tangier. In the Middle East, spinach turnovers are served with a healthy amount of plain yogurt to round out the meal.
If you run out of filling but have leftover dough then you can make thyme-Spiced Flat Pies (page 37) or shape the dough scraps into any shape you like and bake them along with the turnovers.
1 batch Basic Savory Flat Pie Dough (page 26)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon canola oil, plus more as necessary for the spinach
1 large onion, finely diced
1 tablespoon sumac
1 lb (500 g) spinach
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon cumin
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil to oil the baking sheets, countertop,
and tops of the turnovers
Fresh lemon wedges (optional, for serving)
Preparation Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes
Cooking Time: 40 minutes
Yields about 25 to 35 turnovers
1 Prepare Basic Savory Flat Pie Dough.
2 heat both the oils in a large skillet over medium heat; add the onion and sauté until softened but not browned, about 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the sumac.
3 Chop the spinach and remove any large stems; add it to a large pot with 2 cups (500 ml) of water. Cover the pot and cook over high heat until just wilted, about 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain in a cheesecloth-lined colander and let it sit until the spinach is cool enough to handle, and then wring the cheesecloth to remove the excess water.
4 Combine the onion/sumac mixture, drained spinach, lemon juice, salt, coriander, cumin, and black pepper in a large bowl. The spinach should look slightly glossy, if it doesn’t, stir in more canola oil, 1 teaspoon at a time, until it does. Be careful not to add too much. Taste the spinach; it should taste like a well-seasoned salad—if it doesn’t, adjust seasonings (such as lemon juice, salt, pepper, and other spices) accordingly.
5 Preheat oven to 400˚F (200˚C) and lightly brush 2 large baking sheets with olive oil (alternatively, you can line them with parchment paper or silpat liners).
6 Gently deflate the dough, then divide into 2 equal pieces and shape the pieces into balls; put the balls back into the bowl, cover the bowl with a slightly damp towel, and let sit 5 to 10 minutes. Lightly brush olive oil onto your countertop (or whatever surface you want to use to roll out the dough).
7 work with 1 piece of dough at a time and use your hands to gently stretch it out, then use a rolling pin to roll it out to a circle about 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter. Stamp out circles 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter with a round cookie cutter. Scoop about ½ tablespoon of spinach filling onto the center of each piece of dough. Repeat this process with the three remaining balls of dough. Gather the dough scraps into a ball, roll it out, and fill (only re-roll the scraps once to prevent the dough from toughening).
8 to form the turnovers, fold the dough along line 1-2 up and over onto the center, then do the same for the dough along line 2-3, and finally for line 1-3; pinch the dough together at the seams to seal it. (Alternatively, you can shape them into little pyramids: pull up lines 1-3 and 2-3 and pinch them together to form a seam, then pull up line 1-2 and pinch it together along the sides of the seam you just made to form the two remaining sides.)
9 Line up the turnovers (seam side up) about 2 inches (5 cm) apart on the prepared baking sheets and brush a little oil on top of each. Bake until golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes, rotating the baking sheets once halfway through cooking. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
MANAQEESH
In the Middle East, children are encouraged to eat these pies for breakfast, since the herbs in thyme Spice Mix supposedly help improve memory and concentration.
Preparation Time: 40 minutes
Cooking Time: 30 minutes
Yields 16 pies
1 batch Basic Savory Flat Pie Dough (page 26)
1 batch plus 2 tablespoons Thyme Spice Mix (page 29)
3½ tablespoons olive oil
Olive oil for the baking sheets and countertop
Plain yogurt (optional, for serving)
1 Prepare Basic Savory Flat Pie Dough and thyme Spice Mix.
2 Preheat oven to 400˚F (200˚C) and lightly brush 2 large baking sheets with olive oil (alternatively, you can line them with parchment paper or silpat liners). Mix the thyme Spice Mix and 3½ tablespoons olive oil together in a small bowl and set aside.
3 Gently deflate the dough, then divide into 16 equal pieces and shape the pieces into balls; put the balls back into the bowl, cover the bowl with a slightly damp towel, and let sit 5 to 10 minutes. Lightly brush olive oil onto your countertop (or whatever surface you want to use to press out the dough).
4 work with 1 piece of dough at a time and use your hands to press it out on your oiled surface to a circle about 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in diameter. Line up the pies about 2 inches (5 cm) apart on the oiled baking sheets and spread about 1 teaspoon of the thyme Spice Mix/olive oil onto each pie.
5 Bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 12 to 14 minutes, rotating the baking sheets once halfway through cooking.
6 Serve at room temperature, alongside plain yogurt if desired.
