CHAPTER THREE
Vegetable and Rice Side Dishes
Lunch in the Middle East, which is the largest and most formal meal of the day, usually only has one main dish but several side dishes of vegetables (and the more guests that are present, the more sides there are available), so even though they may not be the focus of the meal, they still play a vital role. Many rice dishes — like Upside-Down Rice Casserole (Maqluba) (page 114), Fish Pilaf with Caramelized Onion (Sayadieh bil Samek) (page 86), and Rice Pilaf with Spiced Smoked Chicken (Mendy Dajaj) (page 94)— are main meals in and of themselves and are found in later chapters. The rice dishes in this chapter are typically served with some kind of saucy dish; for example, Saffron Rice with Golden Raisins and Pine Nuts (Roz Mlow'wan) (page 61) is often served with Shrimp in Aromatic Tomato Sauce (Makboos Rubian) (page 95) and Rice with Toasted Vermicelli Noodles (Roz bil Shariya) (page 58) is frequently served with dishes such as Roasted Chicken with Rice and Vegetable Soup (Molokhia Na’meh) (page 90), Cauliflower Meat Sauce (M'nezalit Zahara) (page 110), or Lamb and Yogurt Soup (Shakreeyeh) (page 109). A number of factors go into making the perfect pot of rice; for helpful tips, check out Making the Perfect Pot of Rice on page 13.
Fried Eggplant with Garlic and Parsley Dressing
BATINJAN MEKLEH
Fried eggplant is a perfect example of classic Middle Eastern fare: a humble ingredient is simply cooked and paired with a quick sauce to accentuate its flavor.
The first time I had this dish was in a rural area of Syria, called Zabadani. My husband and I were staying with his family in the country for a few days and another family had come to visit. Of course, as is customary, a feast was in order. My mother-in-law made about 15 different dishes that day, and out of all of them this was my favorite. It was at that moment that my mother-in-law realized that my husband and I truly were perfect for each other. You see, my hubby hates eggplant in any form and my mother-in-law has always hoped he’d marry someone who loves it!
If the eggplant is prepped properly, it really doesn’t absorb that much oil when fried, but if you prefer, the eggplant can be grilled or broiled instead. For helpful tips, see Cooking Eggplant, (page 11) and Frying Basics, (page 12).
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 10 minutes, plus 30 minutes for the eggplant to drain
Cooking Time: 20 minutes
1 large or 2 small globe eggplants (about 2 lb/900 g)
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon water
4 cloves garlic, minced
¼ bunch fresh parsley, minced
Oil, for shallow frying
1 Fully or partially peel the eggplant if desired. (to partially peel it, peel one strip off down the length of the vegetable, then leave the next strip in place and peel the next strip off, and so on). Slice into ¼ to ½ inch (6 mm to 1.25 cm) thick slices (lengthwise or crosswise is fine if you’re using baby eggplant, but if you’re using a large eggplant slice it crosswise).
2 Sprinkle the salt on both sides of each slice and transfer
to a colander; put the colander in the sink and let it sit for 30 minutes. Rinse the eggplant under cold running water, then gently wring out any excess water and pat dry.
3 Combine the vinegar, water, garlic, and parsley in a small bowl and set aside.
4 Coat the bottom of a large skillet over moderately high heat with oil. Fry the eggplant in batches (so the pan isn’t overcrowded) until golden brown, about 2 to 4 minutes per side. (You
can add more oil to the pan if necessary.) transfer the cooked eggplant to a paper towel-lined plate to drain any excess oil.
5 Serve the eggplant warm or at room temperature, along with the dressing to drizzle on top.
Fresh Tomato Sauce
MUTABBAL YEMENI
This sauce is similar to a cold tomato soup, almost like a Spanish Gazpacho. It’s spicy, sweet, and refreshing, and is typically spooned on top of rice dishes such as Rice Pilaf with Spiced Smoked Chicken (page 94).
Yields about 2 cups (500 ml)
Preparation Time: 5 minutes
1 lb (500 g) tomatoes (about 4 medium), sliced
1 small hot green chili pepper, deseeded and sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled
4 sprigs fresh mint, washed
4 tablespoons water
¼ teaspoon salt
1 Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth.
2 Keep refrigerated until ready to serve.
Potatoes with Herbs and Garlic
M’FARAKAT BATATA
Instead of frying the potatoes, you can boil them for this recipe if you prefer. To do so, put the peeled and cubed potato in a medium saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by about 1 inch (2.5 cm). Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn the heat down to medium-low and simmer until fork-tender, about 5 to 7 minutes; drain the potato and toss with the sautéed garlic/cilantro mixture. Or the potatoes can be roasted; preheat oven to 425˚F (220˚C); toss the peeled and cubed potatoes with 2 tablespoons canola oil in a large bowl; spread in an even layer on a large baking sheet and roast until soft and golden brown, about 20 to 30 minutes, stirring once.
Serves 4
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 22 minutes
Oil, for frying
2 lb (1 kg) potatoes, peeled and cubed
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed in a mortar and pestle with 1 teaspoon salt
½ bunch fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), minced
1 Coat the bottom of a medium saucepan with about ½ inch (1.25 cm) of oil. Heat over medium heat; add half the potato and cook until tender inside and golden outside, about 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer the potato to a paper towel-lined plate to drain, and cook the remaining potato the same way.
2 heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Cook the garlic and fresh coriander leaves until the garlic is light golden and the cilantro is wilted, about 3 minutes, stirring frequently.
3 Add the potatoes and cook until warm, about 2 minutes;
serve warm or at room temperature.
VARIATION
Herbed Potato Salad
SALATIT BATATA
1 batch Lemony Mint Salad Dressing (page 28)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¾ teaspoon salt
2 lb (1 kg) potatoes, peeled and cubed
Cold water, to cook the potato
½ bunch fresh parsley, washed and minced
4 sprigs fresh mint, washed and minced
3 green onions (scallions), white and green parts thinly sliced
1 Prepare the Lemony Mint Salad Dressing and whisk with the lemon juice, and salt in a small bowl and set aside.
2 Put the peeled and cubed potato in a medium saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by about 1 inch (2.5 cm). Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn heat down to medium-low and simmer until fork-tender, about 5 to 7 minutes; drain.
3 Add the potato to a large bowl and gently toss with the dressing, parsley, mint, and green onion; serve warm or at
room temperature.
Okra with Tomatoes in a Fragrant Sauce
BAMIEH BIL ZAYT
You can use fresh or frozen okra in this dish, depending on whether it’s in season or not. If you’re using frozen okra, don’t thaw it before adding, just add it frozen and simmer for about 10 minutes. If you’re using fresh, look for small okra pods since they’re tenderer and not as fuzzy. Make sure to clean the okra (you can rub the “fuzz” off with a damp cloth) and trim the stem ends, then simmer for about 10 minutes.
To prevent the okra from becoming slimy, try not to pierce the pods or cut it into pieces; be careful to stir gently so your pods remain intact and be sure not to overcook the okra. Also, the tomatoes in this dish (like anything acidic) help to prevent the okra from becoming slimy.
To make this dish a full meal, cook some type of stew meat (lamb or beef) and add it to the okra before serving.
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 12 minutes
Cooking Time: 35 minutes
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, crushed in a mortar and pestle with ¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground coriander
2 pinches ground cinnamon
1 pinch ground allspice
1 pinch ground nutmeg
1 pinch ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 medium tomatoes, diced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
½ cup (125 ml) water
1 lb (500 g) baby okra (fresh or frozen; if frozen, there’s no need to thaw), stem ends trimmed
1 heat the oil in a large lidded skillet over medium heat; add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic, coriander, Syrian Spice Mix, and black pepper, and
cook 1 minute, stirring constantly.
2 Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, and water and bring up to a boil. Cover the skillet, turn the heat down to simmer, and cook until thickened, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3 Add the okra, turn the heat up to high, and bring it up to a simmer. Once simmering, cover the skillet, turn the heat down, and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes.
4 uncover the skillet, turn the heat up to moderately high, and cook until the sauce is thickened, about 2 minutes, stirring frequently.
Fried Cauliflower with Sesame Parsley Sauce
QARNABEET MEKLEH BIL TARATOOR
This is one recipe that will completely surprise you. Normally cauliflower isn’t the kind of food I want to plan a whole meal around, but after tasting this dish I find myself craving it and thinking of different meals that would feature it.
After frying, cauliflower takes on a rich, slightly nutty, caramelized flavor; the sesame sauce on top adds the perfect tangy contrast. Scoop the cauliflower up with Arabic flatbread and you have a light meal, but my mother-in-law usually serves this with Aromatic whole Roasted Fish (Samek Meshwi) (page 87), since the flavor of the sesame sauce complements both dishes.
If you don’t want to fry the cauliflower, you can roast it using the method that is described for Cauliflower Meat Sauce (M’nezalit Zahara) (page 110).
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 25 minutes
1 large head cauliflower, cut into florets
Oil, for deep-frying
1 batch Sesame-Parsley Dip (page 25) or Sesame Sauce (page 25)
1 Prepare Sesame Sauce or Sesame Parsley Dip.
2 Blanch the cauliflower for 5 minutes in salted boiling water, drain, and pat dry.
3 Fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot 1/3 of the way full with oil; heat the oil to between 350 to 375˚F (175 to 190˚C) over moderately-high heat.
4 Add ½ of the cauliflower and fry until golden brown, about 6 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer the fried cauliflower to a paper towel-lined plate to drain any excess oil. Repeat this process with the remaining cauliflower.
5 Serve the cauliflower warm or at room temperature, with the Sesame Sauce drizzled on top.
Spicy Potatoes BATATA HARRA
Sweet bell peppers and ground sweet paprika help to soften the heat factor of this dish, but if you like it extra hot you can add another chili pepper or more ground red pepper (cayenne).
Serves 4
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 25 minutes
Oil, for frying
2 lb (1 kg) potatoes, peeled and cubed
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, diced
1 red bell pepper, deseeded and diced
1 small hot green chili pepper, minced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground sweet paprika
½ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ bunch fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), minced
2 limes, wedged (for serving)
1 Coat the bottom of a medium saucepan with about ½ inch (1.25 cm) of canola oil. Heat over medium heat; add half the potato and cook until tender inside and golden outside, about 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer the potato to a paper towel-lined plate to drain, and cook the remaining potato the same way.
2 heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat; add the onion, bell pepper, and chili pepper, and cook until they start to soften, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3 Add the garlic, salt, ground sweet paprika, ground red pepper, and black pepper, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute, stirring constantly.
4 Add the potatoes and fresh coriander leaves and cook until warm, about 2 minutes. Serve with lime wedges to squeeze on top.
KHOUBEZEH
Dandelion greens are a highly nutritious, bitter green; like purslane (page 22), they are often thought of as a weed, but they are prized in Middle Eastern cuisine. A bowl of sautéed greens is a nice addition to a maza platter; my father-in-law often jokes that he’d rather have a vegetarian meal like this than a whole lamb.
Serves 2 to 3
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 20 minutes
1 teaspoon plus a slightly scant ½ teaspoon salt, divided
1 lb (500 g) dandelion greens or mustard greens, tough stems trimmed, washed, and chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed in a mortar and pestle
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), minced
1 Fill a medium pot ¾ full of water and bring to a boil, then add 1 teaspoon of salt. Add the dandelion greens and blanch them until the stems are tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the greens in a colander, pressing gently with the back of a spoon to extract as much water as possible.
2 heat the oil in a large skillet over moderately-high heat; add the onion and cook until softened and just starting to brown, about 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3 Stir in the garlic, then add the greens, black pepper, and remaining slightly scant ½ teaspoon salt; cook 2 minutes, then stir in the coriander leaves and cook 1 minute more; serve.
Rice with Toasted Vermicelli Noodles ROZ BIL SHARIYA
When flatbread doesn’t accompany a Middle Eastern meal, it’s usually because this dish has taken its place. This rice is served alongside many soup, stew, and sauce-based dishes, which are spooned on top of the rice. For tips on cooking rice, see Making the Perfect Pot of Rice (page 13).
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 15 minutes, plus 15 minutes to let the rice sit after cooking
1½ cups (325 g) uncooked medium grain white rice, rinsed
2 tablespoons clarified butter (or 1 tablespoon butter plus 1 tablespoon canola oil)
4 tablespoons dried vermicelli noodles
1¾ cups (425 ml) boiling water
¾ teaspoon salt
1 Soak the rice in tepid water for 10 minutes; drain.
2 while the rice is soaking, put half a kettle of water on to boil.
3 Add the clarified butter to a medium, thick-bottomed lidded saucepan over medium heat. Add the vermicelli and cook until fragrant and light golden brown, about 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
4 Add the rice to the saucepan with the toasted vermicelli and cook 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the boiling water and salt; turn the heat up to high, bring to a rolling boil, and boil 1 minute.
5 Give the rice a stir, then cover the saucepan, turn the heat down to very low, and cook until tender, about 10 to 12 minutes (do not open the lid during this time). Turn the heat off and let the rice sit 15 minutes, then fluff with a fork.
Spiced Green Beans with Tomatoes LOUBIEH BIL ZAYT
I’ve been eating green beans all my life. I’ve always liked them well enough, but they never wowed me until I had this dish. The beans take on a slightly nutty flavor from being toasted in olive oil. When paired with the sweetness of the tomato, savory flavor of garlic, and subtle spice notes of cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and cloves it leaves me with green bean cravings for the first time in my life.
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 45 minutes
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, diced
1 lb (500 g) fresh or frozen green beans, stem ends trimmed and cut into 1-2 in (2.5-5 cm) pieces
4 cloves garlic, crushed
¾ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon each of ground cinnamon, ground nutmeg, ground clove and ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 medium tomatoes, diced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
½ cup (125 ml) water
1 heat the oil in a large lidded skillet over medium heat; add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the green beans and sauté until they start to take on a little color, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic, Syrian Spice Mix, and black pepper, and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly.
2 Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, and water and bring up to a boil. Cover the skillet, turn the heat down to simmer, and cook until tender, about 20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3 Once the beans are tender, uncover the skillet, turn the heat up to moderately high, and cook until the sauce is thickened, about 2 minutes, stirring frequently.
Saffron Rice with Golden Raisins and Pine Nuts
ROZ MLOW’WAN
This vibrant rice dish gets its beautiful color from saffron or turmeric. Sultanas (golden raisins) add a little sweetness and toasted pine nuts add a nice crunch.
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 20 minutes, plus 15 minutes to let the rice sit after cooking
1½ cups (325 g) basmati rice, rinsed
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons pine nuts
1 onion, finely diced
4 tablespoons sultanas (golden raisins)
1¾ cups (425 ml) boiling water
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon saffron threads (or ½ teaspoon turmeric)
1 Soak the rice in tepid water for 10 minutes; drain. While the rice is soaking, put half a kettle of water on to boil.
2 Add the oil to a medium, thick-bottomed lidded saucepan over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and cook until golden brown, about 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Transfer the pine nuts to a small bowl and set aside.
3 Add the onion to the saucepan you cooked the pine nuts in, and cook until softened and just starting to brown, about 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the rice and cook 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the sultanas, boiling water, salt, and saffron (or turmeric), turn the heat up to high, and bring it to a rolling boil.
4 Give the rice a stir, then cover the saucepan, turn the heat down to very low, and cook until tender, about 10 minutes (do not open the lid during this time). Turn the heat off and let the rice sit (covered) 15 minutes, then fluff with a fork.
5 transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle the toasted pine nuts on top; serve.
OPTIONAL
Add two pods of cardamom, two whole cloves, and one 2-inch (5 cm) piece of cinnamon stick at the same time that you add the rice.
VARIATION
Mixed White and Yellow Rice
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 20 minutes, plus 15 minutes to let the rice sit after cooking
1½ cups (325 g) uncooked basmati rice, rinsed
2 tablespoons oil
1 onion, finely diced
1 bay leaf
2 whole cloves
2 pods cardamom, cracked open
2 whole peppercorns
¾ teaspoon salt
1¾ cups (425 ml) boiling water
1-2 pinches saffron threads or ½ teaspoon turmeric dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water
1 Soak the rice in tepid water for 10 minutes; drain. While the rice is soaking, put half a kettle of water on to boil.
2 Add the oil to a medium, thick-bottomed lidded saucepan, cover and place over moderately high heat. Once hot, add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3 Add the rice, bay leaf, cloves, cardamom pods, peppercorns, and salt, and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the boiling water to the rice, turn heat up to high, and bring it to a rolling boil. Give it a stir, cover the pot, turn heat down to very low, and cook 10 minutes (don’t open the lid during this time).
4 After the rice is cooked, let the pot sit with the lid on for 15 minutes, then fluff the rice with a fork. Transfer 1/3 of the rice to a separate bowl.
5 Stir the saffron or turmeric-colored water into 1/3 of the rice (the rice will turn yellow). Mix together the yellow rice and white rice; serve.