CHAPTER EIGHT
Desserts
Sweets are beloved by all in the Middle East. Whether it’s a tin of cookies stashed in the cupboard or a row of delicately flavored puddings lined up in the refrigerator, they are deliciously alluring and are calling out to be eaten. Some form of sweet is always on hand in Middle Eastern households. They are treats given to guests who arrive expectedly or unexpectedly, to neighbors who come to visit and chat with the woman of the house while the men are away working, and to children coming home from a day at school. They can also be found adorning an afternoon tray of coffee or an after-dinner tray of tea, and even on the breakfast table, like Apple Preserves (Murabba Toofah) (page 126), Apricot Jam (Murabba Mishmish) (page 125), Sesame Fudge (Halawa) (page 119), and Toasted Semolina Pudding with Cinnamon (Mamounieh) (page 130). Some sweets are used for special celebrations, like Date-Filled Cookies (Ma'amoul) (page 118) and others are used to line the pockets of the young and old alike, like Sesame Seed Brittle (Simsemieh) (page 126).
Ma’amoul means “stuffed” and these cookies can be stuffed with a number of different fillings. Date filling is traditional for celebrating Eid al Fitr (the Festival of Fast-Breaking at the end of Ramadan) and Eid al Adha (the Festival of Sacrifice), but walnuts (flavored either with orange blossom syrup or cinnamon) and pistachios (flavored with rose water and orange blossom water) are also common. For the walnut or pistachio filling, moisten the nuts slightly with a bit of Scented Sugar Syrup (Qater) (page 28); cinnamon can be added to the walnut filling, but if you wish to do so, omit the orange blossom water and the rose water from the sugar syrup. A different shaped mold is used for each filling, see Cookie Molds on page 16. There are two different types of dough—one is shortbread-like and doesn’t contain semolina; the other contains semolina and has a coarser texture. This is the shortbread variety, which is my favorite.
Below I give directions for how to shape these cookies with a Ma’amoul mold, but they can also be shaped by hand. To do so, grab a small handful of dough (about 1½ tablespoons) and roll it into an egg shape. Gently insert your finger into one end (don’t go through to the other side), rotating the dough as you do so; you will end up with a little well. Fill this well with about 1 teaspoon of filling and pinch the end to seal. Use your hands to gently shape it into a circle, and then slightly flatten the circle into a disc. Use a fork to make a decorative crosshatch pattern on the top.
If you have extra date filling, wrap it well and freeze for up to 6 months. When you’re ready to use it, let it thaw in the fridge overnight, then knead a little bit of canola oil into it until smooth.
Yields about 4 dozen cookies
Preparation Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes
Cooking Time: 35 minutes
Date Filling
¾ lb (350 g) pitted dates, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons oil
1½ teaspoons Cake Spice Mix (page 29)
Dough
1 cup (225 g) sugar
¾ cup (180 ml) water
¼ cup (65 ml) oil
¾ cup (175 g) clarified butter
4 cups (500 g) all-purpose flour, plus up to 4 tablespoons more for kneading
½ teaspoon instant yeast
Other
¼ cup (30 g) powdered sugar (optional, for dusting on top)
1 Prepare Cake Spice Mix.
2 to make the Date filling, grind the dates and oil in a stand mixer fitted with a food grinding attachment (fine grind) or in a heavy-duty food processor. If using a stand mixer, alternate between adding the dates and oil. If you’re using a food processor, before you add any dates, rub oil on the blade and inside of the bowl. Once processed, oil your hands and knead the Cake Spice Mix into the dates.
3 to make the dough, combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat; bring to a full, rolling boil (occasionally giving the pan a swirl), boil 1 minute, and then turn off the heat. Let it cool 5 to 10 minutes.
4 Combine oil and clarified butter in a separate small saucepan and cook over medium heat until the butter is just melted, about 2 minutes; cool slightly.
5 Put the flour in a large bowl and whisk in the yeast. Use a wooden spoon to gradually incorporate the oil mixture, then gradually incorporate the sugar syrup. Knead the dough until it comes together nicely, adding up to 4 tablespoons more flour as needed (when done, the dough will be soft and should look smooth, shiny, and slightly oily). Cover the dough, put it in the freezer to stiffen slightly, about 5 to 10 minutes, and then knead it again for a couple minutes.
6 Preheat oven to 350˚F (175˚C); line
2 large baking sheets with parchment paper or silpat liners.
7 to shape the cookies with a Ma’amoul mold, measure 1 slightly scant tablespoon of dough and roll it into a ball; slightly flatten it with your hands, then press it into the bottom and up the sides of the mold. Measure 1 teaspoon of the date mixture and roll it into a ball; slightly flatten it and gently press it into the dough in the mold. Measure 1 slightly scant teaspoon of dough, roll it into a ball, slightly flatten it, then put it on top of the date mixture in the mold; use your fingers to press the dough on the top into the dough on the sides. To remove the cookie from the mold, hold the mold by the handle and tap the flat rim on a secure surface; the cookie will drop right out.
8 Arrange the cookies on the baking sheets about ½ to 1 inch (1.25 to 2.5 cm) apart (if you use 2 half-sheet pans, the cookies should all fit on 2 pans; otherwise, you will need to cook them in 2 batches); bake until light golden brown on the bottom, about 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the trays once.
9 Cool completely, and then dust with the powdered sugar. To store the cookies, package them layered between parchment paper in an airtight container.
How to Make the Date Filled Cookies
STEP 1: Measure 1 slightly scant tablespoon of dough and roll it into a ball; slightly flatten it with your hands, then press it into the bottom and up the sides of the mold.
STEP 2: Measure 1 teaspoon of the date mixture and roll it into a ball; slightly flatten it and gently press it into the dough in the mold.
STEP 3: Measure 1 slightly scant teaspoon of dough, roll it into a ball, slightly flatten it, then put it on top of the date mixture in the mold; use your fingers to press the dough on the top into the dough on the sides.
STEP 4: to remove the cookie from the mold, hold the mold by the handle and tap the flat rim on a secure surface; the cookie will drop right out.
Sesame Fudge
HALAWA
Tahini makes very unique fudge that is deliciously sweet and nutty, with just a hint of bitterness. This fudge is frequently eaten with breakfast, spread on flatbread with a little butter.
Yields 1 loaf pan of fudge
Preparation Time: 15 minutes, plus 24 hours for the fudge to set
Cooking Time: 10 minutes
2 teaspoons butter
1½ cups (350 g) tahini
1½ cups (350 g) sugar
¾ cup (185 ml) water
1 teaspoon rose water, orange blossom water, or pure vanilla extract (optional)
½ cup (60 g) shelled pistachios
1 Grease a loaf pan with the butter and set aside. Pour the tahini into a large bowl and beat with a handheld electric mixer until smooth; set aside.
2 Add the sugar and water to a medium, thick-bottomed saucepan, over medium heat; cook until it reaches the softball stage on a candy thermometer (240˚F/115˚C), stirring occasionally. Stir in the rose water or other flavoring, if using. Cool 2 minutes.
3 using an electric mixer, gradually beat the sugar syrup into the tahini. Once all the syrup is beat in, continue beating it for 1 minute. Stir in the pistachios with a wooden spoon, and knead the mixture a couple times with your hands.
4 Press the mixture into the prepared loaf pan; cool to room temperature, then cover the pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate 24 hours before slicing and serving.
Layered Apricot and Milk Pudding
MUHALLIBIET QAMAR AL DEEN
Sweet/tart apricot pudding and creamy milk pudding are layered in this pretty dessert, which is a great way to use Apricot Leather (page 18).
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 10 minutes, plus 2 to 12 hours to for the apricot leather to soak, and time for the pudding to chill
Cooking Time: 15
Rose & Orange Blossom-Scented Milk Pudding
2 cups (500 ml) milk, divided
4 tablespoons cornstarch
4 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon rose water
½ teaspoon orange blossom water
Apricot Pudding
2 cups (500 ml) hot water
4 tablespoons sugar
½ lb (250 g) apricot leather or dried apricots, torn or chopped into pieces
4 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in 4 tablespoons cold water
1 teaspoon orange blossom water
Garnish
2 tablespoons shelled pistachios, chopped
NOTE: At least 4½ hours before you want to serve the pudding, soak the apricot leather and make the milk pudding so the bottom layer has time to set.
1 to soak the apricot leather: Combine the water and sugar in a large measuring cup with a pour spout, stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved. Put the pieces of apricot leather in a large bowl and pour the water/sugar mixture on top. Cover, and let sit 2 to 12 hours.
2 to make the milk pudding: whisk together ½ cup (125 ml) milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl and set aside. Combine the sugar and remaining 1½ cups (375 ml) milk in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat; cook until it comes to a boil, stirring occasionally. Whisk the cornstarch mixture into the boiling milk and cook 1 minute, whisking constantly. Turn off the heat and stir in the rose water and orange blossom water. Pour into 4 to 6 individual serving cups, filling each cup halfway full; cool to room temperature and then refrigerate 2 to 12 hours. At least 2½ hours before you want to serve the pudding, make the apricot pudding layer from the soaked apricot leather.
3 Purée the apricot leather and water in a blender or food processor; strain through a fine mesh sieve.
4 heat the apricot purée in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat until it comes to a boil, stirring occasionally. Whisk the cornstarch/water mixture into the boiling apricot puree and cook 2 minutes, whisking constantly. Turn off heat and stir in the orange blossom water.
5 Pour the apricot pudding on top of the milk pudding; cool to room temperature and then refrigerate to chill, about 2 hours.
LAYALI LUBNAN
Puddings are a huge part of Middle Eastern sweets. This isn’t so much because they’re easier or faster to prepare than other sweets, but because they’re the perfect treat to keep in your fridge for when a neighbor, family member, or friend pops by unannounced.
This pudding is one of my absolute favorites. The pudding itself is rich and velvety, and it’s topped with a layer of whipped cream, a drizzle of Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28), and a sprinkle of pistachios and coconut. Instead of whipped cream, Ishta is traditionally used (see Clotted Cream, page 25 for more information on Ishta); however, Ishta is much thicker and heavier, and I prefer the lightness of whipped cream.
The name of this pudding is so much fun; to me, it conjures up images of nighttime merriment: eating, drinking, and storytelling. I always end up picturing Shahrazad and the mystic stories from 1001 Nights and a Night.
For a completely different flavor, omit the mastic, orange blossom water, and rose water, and use 1½ teaspoons of pure vanilla extract (or ½ a pod of vanilla) instead.
Serves 6
Preparation Time: 10 minutes, plus time for the pudding to chill
Cooking Time: 10 minutes
½ batch Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28), cooled to room temperature
2 tablespoons clarified butter (or 1 tablespoon unsalted butter plus 1 tablespoon canola oil)
½ cup (80 g) fine semolina
4 cups (1 liter) milk
¼ teaspoon mastic (gum Arabic), ground in a mortar and pestle (optional)
¾ teaspoon orange blossom water
¾ teaspoon rose water
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
3 tablespoons shelled pistachios, chopped
3 tablespoons unsweetened, desiccated coconut
1 Prepare Scented Sugar Syrup.
2 Melt the clarified butter in a medium, thick-bottomed saucepan over medium heat; stir in the semolina and cook 2 minutes. Whisk in the milk and mastic, if using, and bring up to a boil, whisking frequently. Turn heat down to medium-low and cook until thickened, about 3 to 5 minutes, whisking constantly.
3 turn off the heat and stir in the orange blossom water and rose water. Pour into 6 individual serving cups (or 1 large serving bowl), cool to room temperature, then refrigerate to chill.
4 Right before serving, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks and spoon it onto the semolina pudding. Drizzle on the sugar syrup to taste and sprinkle the pistachio and coconut on top.
Sweet Cheese Pastry KNAFEH BIL JIBEN
In the Middle East, Knafeh is served for just about any important family gathering you can imagine. On my honeymoon I remember my husband waking up hungry one morning and going to the fridge to look for something to eat; he found half a tray of Knafeh leftover from our wedding reception and immediately started eating it. “i can’t help it…it’s just so good!” he explained when I found him, standing in front of the fridge, a mouth full of Knafeh, and more in his hand. At that point, I had never had Knafeh so I had no idea what he meant. One night a couple days later, both Mike and I had a sweet tooth; of course being a total chocolate lover I was thinking of something chocolaty. Mike took me to a local bakery and ordered Knafeh for us, insisting that I would not be disappointed. I was skeptical at first (since there is no chocolate in Knafeh), but he was right…it was love at first bite.
Knafeh is originally a Palestinian dessert made with a Palestinian cheese called nabulsi, but there are many variations with different cheese or cream fillings. In this version I use a combination of soft (farmer’s or Jiben Belaadi) and semi-firm (nabulsi, Ackawi, or fresh mozzarella) white cheeses. For the soft cheese, you can use ricotta instead of farmer’s cheese, if you prefer. I give instructions below on how to remove the saltiness from Nabulsi or Ackawi.
Serves 10 to 12
Preparation Time: 15 minutes, plus 2 to 4 hours to soak the cheese if using Nabulsi or Ackawi
Cooking Time: 40 minutes
1 batch Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28), cooled to room temperature
¼ lb (100 g) Nabulsi, Ackawi, or fresh mozzarella cheese
¾ lb (350 g) farmer’s cheese (Jiben Beladi)
3-6 tablespoons milk
½ cup (115 g) plus 1 tablespoon clarified butter or unsalted butter, divided
1 lb (500 g) frozen shredded phyllo dough (kataifi), thawed in the fridge overnight
1 tablespoon shelled pistachios, finely chopped
1 Prepare the Scented Sugar Syrup.
2 if you’re using Nabulsi or Ackawi cheese, remove the saltiness by soaking the cheese in cold water for 2 to 4 hours (or overnight), changing the water several times; pat dry. Crumble the Nabulsi or Ackawi with your fingers, or grate the mozzarella; combine it with the farmer’s cheese in a medium bowl, stirring in the milk 1 tablespoon at a time so that the mixture comes together into a creamy consistency (you may not need all the milk); refrigerate until ready to use.
3 Preheat oven to 450˚F (230˚C) and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or a silpat liner.
4 Melt ½ cup (125 g) butter and allow to cool slightly. Place the shredded phyllo dough in a large bowl and use your hands to separate each strand. Add the butter and rub it into each strand of dough.
5 transfer the buttered dough to the prepared baking sheet and bake until golden and crispy, about 10 to 12 minutes, stirring every 3 minutes so the edges don’t burn. Cool slightly, then use your hands to crunch up the dough so you end up with pieces about ¼-inch (6 mm) in length.
6 Preheat oven (from the lower heating elements) to 400˚F (200˚C) and position a rack in the lower 1/3 of the oven. Spread the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter inside a round, 9 to 10-inch (23 to 25 cm) diameter spring form baking pan.
7 Spread ½ of the dough evenly into the bottom of the pan, pressing the dough down firmly with your hands. Spread the cheese on top, leaving a border of about ¼ inch (6 mm) all the way around. Evenly spread the rest of the dough on top of the cheese, pressing firmly with your hands and then evening out the surface with a spatula.
8 Bake until the cheese is melted and the dough on the outside is golden brown and has slightly pulled away from the outside of the pan, about 20 to 30 minutes. (Give the pan a gentle shake and the pastry should move freely.) Once out of the oven, drizzle ½ cup Scented Sugar Syrup on top.
9 Cool 5 minutes, then run a knife along the outside of the pan and gently remove the spring form sides. Sprinkle the pistachio on top (in a decorative pattern, if you like).
10 Serve immediately, along with the remaining ½ cup Scented Sugar Syrup to drizzle on top.
These delicate butter cookies are similar to shortbread but with a hint of floral flavor. You can use either clarified butter or unsalted butter, but clarified butter is highly recommended to achieve the best flavor and texture.
These cookies can be shaped just about any way you like; however, diamonds, balls, rings, or “S” shapes are traditional. Once shaped, each cookie is decorated with a pine nut, blanched almond, or raw pistachio.
Yields about 3 dozen cookies
Preparation Time: 30 minutes
Cooking Time: 25 minutes
1 cup (250 g) clarified butter, at room temperature
1 cup (125 g) powdered sugar
2 teaspoons rose water or orange blossom water
2½ cups (320 g) all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons blanched almonds (or pine nuts or raw pistachios)
1 Preheat oven to 300˚F (150˚C); line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silpat liners.
2 Beat the butter, sugar, and rose water or orange blossom water together with a handheld electric mixer until light and fluffy. Gradually stir in the flour with a wooden spoon.
3 to briefly chill the dough, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in the fridge or freezer just until the dough stiffens slightly (about 7 minutes in the freezer).
4 Shape the cookies (see headnote above for tips) and lightly press 1 nut into each, then place them 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart on a baking sheet. Bake until they’re set and golden on the bottom, but are still white on the top, about 20 to 25 minutes.
5 Cool 5 minutes on the tray and then transfer to a wire rack to finish cooling.
For Diamonds
Chill the dough 10 minutes in the fridge. Roll it out between two pieces of parchment paper (or on a lightly floured surface) to a circle about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick and 6½ inches (16.5 cm) in diameter. With a sharp knife, cut the dough into 1-inch (2.5 cm) diamonds; place one nut in the center of each diamond. Re-roll the dough scraps and repeat this process, or make scraps into any shape you like (balls work well).
For Balls
Scoop out 1 tablespoon of dough, roll it into a ball and gently press one nut into the center.
For Rings
Form the dough into a ball, and then roll it with your hands into a rope about 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) long. Bring the two ends of the rope together to form a ring, and gently press one nut into the cookie where the two ends meet.
For “S” Shapes
Form the dough into a ball, and then roll it with your hands into a rope about 2 inches (5 cm) long. Form the rope into an “S” shape and gently press one nut into the center.
Middle Eastern Pancakes QATAYEF
These sweet treats have several variations and are often served as a special occasion dessert.
Yields about 22 pancakes
Preparation Time: 5 minutes, plus 1 hour for the batter to rest
Cooking Time: 20 minutes
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon instant yeast
¼ teaspoon baking powder
1 cup (250 ml) lukewarm milk
1 cup (250 ml) lukewarm water
1 batch Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28) (for serving)
4 tablespoons shelled pistachios, finely chopped (for serving)
1 Prepare Scented Sugar Syrup.
2 whisk together the flour, sugar, yeast, and baking powder in a medium bowl, then whisk in the milk and water. Cover the bowl with a towel and let it sit at room temperature until bubbly and slightly risen, about 1 hour.
3 Preheat a nonstick frying pan or griddle over moderately high heat. Scoop out the batter (without stirring it) using a 2 tablespoon measure and slightly spread out the batter with the back of a spoon; cook on one side only until it’s golden brown on the bottom and the top has holes and looks dry, about 1 to 2 minutes. (Do not move the pancake while it’s cooking.)
4 transfer to a parchment paper-lined surface and cool completely before stacking. Repeat this process until all the batter is cooked.
5 to serve, drizzle with Scented Sugar Syrup and sprinkle with pistachio, or make into one of the variations.
VARIATION 1
Crispy Fried Stuffed Pancakes
In this variation, Qatayef are filled with either soft white unsalted cheese, Clotted Cream (ishta) (page 25), or flavored walnuts, and then sealed shut to form a half-moon shape. It doesn’t stop there though…it’s then deep fried until crisp (the traditional method) or crisped a bit in a hot oven. After that it’s doused with Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28) and sprinkled with pistachio. This version is by far my favorite way to eat Qatayef.
Other options for fillings:
3 cups (850 g) soft white unsalted cheese (such as farmer’s or ricotta cheese)
3 cups (850 g) or 1½ batches Clotted Cream (page 25)
3 cups (350 g) cinnamon or orange blossom scented walnuts (see the recipe for Date-Filled Cookies on page 118 for more information these two variations on walnut fillings)
Other
Oil (for frying) or 6 tablespoons melted clarified butter (for baking)
1 batch Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28), cooled to room temperature
4 tablespoons shelled pistachios, finely chopped
1 Prepare Scented Sugar Syrup.
2 Fold 1 pancake in half and pinch together 1 end; keep pinching along the edge until it is halfway closed. Spoon in about 2 teaspoons of the filling of your choice and pinch the rest of the pancake closed. Repeat this process with the remaining pancakes.
3 the pancakes can be crisped by deep-frying or in the oven. To deep fry, fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot 1/3 of the way full with canola oil and heat over moderately high heat to 350 to 375˚F (175 to 190˚C); add the stuffed pancakes (working in batches) and fry until golden, about 2 to 4 minutes. For the oven method, preheat the oven to 400˚F (200˚C) and grease a large baking sheet with 2 tablespoons of clarified butter. Arrange the Qatayef in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet, brush the tops with the remaining 4 tablespoons of clarified butter, and bake until crisp, about 15 to 25 minutes.
4 while the Qatayef is still hot, pour on the cooled Scented Sugar Syrup. Sprinkle the pistachio on top and serve.
Cheese or Cream-Filled Pancakes with Pistachios
This version of Qatayef is the most elegant, with its dainty but sumptuous look. The pancakes are left half open, then filled with Clotted Cream (istha) (page 25) or soft white unsalted cheese, and dipped in pistachios. A bit of Scented Sugar Syrup (Qater) (page 28) drizzled on top completes them and provides a nice glistening sheen.
1 batch of Middle Eastern Pancake Batter
Filling Suggestions
3 cups (1¾ lb/850g) soft white unsalted cheese (such as farmer’s or ricotta cheese)
About 3 cups or 1½ batches Clotted Cream (page 25)
Other
½ cup (60 g) shelled pistachios, finely chopped
1 batch Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28), cooled completely
1 Fold 1 pancake in half and pinch together 1 end; keep pinching along the edge until it is halfway to 2/3 of the way closed. Pipe in about 2 to 3 tablespoons of the filling of your choice, then dip the filling in the pistachios. Transfer to a tray and repeat this process with the remaining pancakes.
2 Serve immediately, with the Scented Sugar Syrup drizzled on top.
Apricot Jam MURABBA MISHMISH
Fresh, sweet apricots are one of summer’s delights; this jam is a wonderful way to preserve them for year-round use.
Yields about 3 1/3 cups (800 ml)
Preparation Time: 10 minutes, plus 12 hours for the fruit to macerate
Cooking Time: 50 minutes
2 lb (1 kg) fresh apricots, washed and dried
2¼ cups (500 g) sugar
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 Cut the apricots in half and remove the pits. If the fruit is small, leave the apricots halved; if the fruit is larger, cut each half in half.
2 Combine the apricots, sugar, and lemon juice in a large bowl; cover the bowl and let it sit 12 hours at room temperature, stirring occasionally.
3 Pour the apricots along with the liquid that has collected into a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn heat down to simmer and cook 40 minutes, stirring occasionally at first and more frequently toward the end.
4 Carefully transfer the jam to sterilized jars. Cool to room temperature, and then store in the fridge.
MURABBA TOOFAH
This recipe is really a two-for-one, since you end up with not only delicious preserved apples, but also a delicious apple-scented syrup. The syrup is about as thick as honey and can be used the same way, or as a substitute for Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28).
Yields 1 quart (1 liter) of apples in syrup, plus about 1 pint (500 ml) of extra syrup
Preparation Time: 40 minutes, plus 12 hours for the fruit to macerate
Cooking Time: 1 hour
Cold water to fill a large bowl 2/3 full
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, divided
2 lb (1 kg) organic firm, tart apples (such as Granny Smith), washed and dried
4½ cups (1 kg) sugar
1 cup (250 ml) water
1 Fill a large bowl 2/3 full with cold water and add 3 tablespoons lemon juice; keep this next to you as you prepare the apples.
2 Peel the apples, remove the core, and then cut each into quarters, dropping them in the bowl of lemon water as you go. When you’re done preparing the apples, drain them and pat dry.
3 Combine the apples and sugar in a large bowl; cover the bowl and let it sit 12 hours at room temperature, stirring occasionally.
4 Pour the apples along with the liquid that has been collected into a heavy-bottomed large saucepan. Add the 1 cup (250 ml) of water and bring to a rolling boil over medium heat.
5 Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons lemon juice, turn the heat down slightly, and simmer (uncovered) until the apples are tender (a paring knife inserted into an apple should slide right out), about 15 to 20 minutes.
6 Carefully transfer the apples to a 1-quart (1 liter) sterilized jar and pour enough syrup in to cover; pour the extra syrup into a separate 1-pint (500 ml) sterilized jar.
7 Store the jar of apples and the jar of syrup at room temperature for up to 3 months.
Sesame Seed Brittle
SiMSEMiEh
Like Sesame Fudge (page 119), this brittle is another fantastic sweet use for sesame seeds.
Yields about ¾ lb/350 g
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 25 minutes
2 teaspoons oil, plus more to oil a spatula and a knife
1 cup (140 g) hulled or unhulled sesame seeds
1 cup (225 g) sugar
1 teaspoon orange blossom water
1 Brush oil on the bottom and sides of an 8- x 8-inch (20 x 20 cm) baking pan, and lightly brush oil on a metal spatula and a sharp knife; set aside.
2 Preheat oven to 350˚F (175˚C). Spread the sesame seeds on a baking sheet and roast until light golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Once they’re done roasting, immediately transfer to a medium bowl.
3 Add the sugar and orange blossom water to a medium-sized thick-bottomed pot; cook over moderately high heat until sugar is melted, about 5 to 8 minutes. Don’t stir until about two-thirds of the sugar is melted; from that point on, gently stir constantly with a wooden spoon or heat-safe rubber spatula.
4 Once all the sugar is melted, working quickly but carefully, stir in the sesame seeds and pour the mixture into the oiled pan; smooth the surface with the oiled spatula. Cool 2 minutes, and then use the oiled knife to score 1-to 2- inch (2.5 to 5 cm) squares, rectangles, or diamonds.
5 Cool 2 to 4 minutes more, then turn out onto a cutting board and cut along the scored lines. Cool completely and store in an airtight container at room temperature, or wrap individually.
Rose and Orange Blossom-Scented Milk Pudding
MUHALLIBEH
I see a pretty white pudding like this and I immediately think of vanilla, but this pudding is actually flavored with rose and orange blossom. A common flavor pairing for many Middle Eastern sweets, rose water and orange blossom water are often used to flavor things like cakes, ice creams, puddings, and pastries.
The first time I had this pudding was at a bustling ice cream parlor called Bakdash in the middle of an old market in Damascus called Souk al Hamidiya. I’ve made this pudding in the style that is served there: half of the top is decorated with whole blanched almonds and the other half with coarsely chopped pistachios, and a whole maraschino cherry is placed in the center.
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 5 minutes, plus time for the pudding to chill
Cooking Time: 10 minutes
4 cups (1 liter) milk, divided
1/3 cup (50 g) cornstarch
6 tablespoons sugar
¾ teaspoon rose water
¾ teaspoon orange blossom water
4 tablespoons shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped
4 tablespoons blanched almonds halves
4 to 6 maraschino cherries
1 whisk together ½ cup (125 ml) milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl and set aside.
2 Combine the sugar and remaining milk in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat; cook until it comes to a boil, stirring occasionally.
3 whisk the cornstarch mixture into the boiling milk and cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Turn off heat and stir in the rose water and orange blossom water.
4 Pour into 4 to 6 individual serving cups, cool to room temperature, then refrigerate to chill.
5 For each pudding, decorate the top with half pistachios and half almonds, and place a cherry in the center; serve chilled.
BARAZEK
Along with Butter Cookies (page 123), these cookies are a treat that can be found hiding in just about every house’s pantry in Damascus. These two kinds of cookies are normally served together with turkish Coffee (page 139), and they make the perfect treat for unexpected visitors.
Yields about 2 dozen cookies
Preparation Time: 35 minutes
Cooking Time: 20 minutes
½ cup (120 g) sugar
4½ tablespoons water, divided
1½ cups (200 g) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ cup (115 g) clarified butter or unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ tablespoons honey
½ cup (70 g) sesame seeds
4 tablespoons shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped
1 Preheat oven to 350˚F (175˚C); line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silpat liners.
2 Add the sugar and 4 tablespoons water to a small, thick-bottomed saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium heat, giving the pan an occasional swirl; boil 1 minute, then turn heat off and cool 10 minutes.
3 whisk together the flour and baking powder in a small bowl. Cream the butter in a medium bowl with a wooden spoon; alternate between stirring in a bit of the sugar syrup and a bit of the flour until everything is incorporated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in the fridge or freezer just until the dough is stiff enough to handle (about 7 minutes in the freezer).
4 Stir together the honey and remaining ½ tablespoon of water in a shallow bowl; stir in the sesame seeds. Pour the pistachios into another shallow bowl.
5 Scoop out 1 tablespoon of dough, roll it into a ball, and then flatten it slightly. Dip the bottom side of a cookie in the pistachios, then dip the top side in the sesame seed/honey mixture. Place the cookie (pistachio side-down) onto the prepared baking sheet and use the back of a spoon to spread it out to a circle about 1½ inches (3.75 cm) in diameter. Continue this process with the rest of the dough, leaving about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) between each cookie when you arrange them on the baking sheets.
6 Bake the cookies until golden on the edges, about 14 to 16 minutes, rotating the trays once. Let the cookies cool completely on the trays before removing.
The two versions of this dish that I give are very different; the first (which is thickened with cornstarch) is a light, creamy milk pudding with occasional bits of cooked rice. The second (which is thickened only with rice) has a much more velvety feel on the tongue. That being said, the second version does have a drawback: it takes quite a bit longer to make. (Note: the kinds of rice used are different in each version. The first recipe uses medium-grain rice and the second uses short-grain rice, which is much starchier.)
For a completely different flavor for either version, omit the rose water and orange blossom water; instead, use 1½ teaspoons of pure vanilla extract (or ½ a pod of vanilla) and/or ¾ teaspoon of ground cinnamon.
Serves 4 to 6
Preparation Time: 5 minutes
Cooking Time: 30 minutes
4 cups (1 liter) milk, divided
4 tablespoons cornstarch
4 tablespoons uncooked medium-grain white rice, quickly rinsed
1 cup (250 ml) water
6 tablespoons sugar
¾ teaspoon rose water
¾ teaspoon orange blossom water
4 tablespoons shelled pistachios, chopped
1 whisk together ½ cup (125 ml) of milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl; set aside.
2 Bring the rice and water to a boil in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat; cover the saucepan, turn the heat down to simmer, and cook 12 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3 while the rice cooks, combine the remaining milk and sugar in another medium saucepan over medium heat; cook until the sugar is dissolved and the milk starts to steam, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat.
4 when the rice is cooked, add the warm milk, cover the saucepan, and bring to a simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally; cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the cornstarch/milk mixture, bring to a boil, and boil uncovered for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in the rose water and orange blossom water.
5 Pour into 4 to 6 individual serving cups, cool to room temperature, then refrigerate to chill.
6 Serve chilled, garnished with the pistachios.
VARIATION
Rice Pudding without Cornstarch
Preparation Time: 5 minutes
Cooking Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes
4 cups (1 liter) milk
2 cups (500 ml) water
6 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons uncooked short-grain white rice, quickly rinsed
¾ teaspoon rose water
¾ teaspoon orange blossom water
4 tablespoons shelled pistachios, chopped
1 Bring the milk, water, and sugar up to a boil in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, stirring frequently; stir in the rice.
2 turn heat down to simmer and cook (uncovered) until the rice is tender and the liquid is thickened, about 50 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally at first but more frequently as it cooks, and then stirring constantly for the last 5 or 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the rose water and orange blossom water.
3 Pour into 4 to 6 individual serving cups, cool to room temperature, then refrigerate to chill.
4 Serve chilled, garnished with the pistachios.
HARISSA
This lovely rustic cake gets its unique texture from semolina. Coconut adds additional texture and Scented Sugar Syrup (Qater) (page 28) sweetens it and keeps it moist. this cake is referred to as Basbousa or Namoura, depending on location.
Serves 10 to 12
Preparation Time: 20 minutes
Cooking Time: 35 minutes, plus 2 hours to let the cake absorb the syrup after cooking
2 batches Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28)
1 tablespoon tahini, to grease the baking pan
2 cups (305 g) fine semolina flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ cup (115 g) sugar
½ cup (115 g) unsalted butter, room temperature
1½ cups (375 ml) milk
1 cup (75 g) desiccated, unsweetened coconut
3 tablespoons blanched almonds
1 Prepare the Scented Sugar Syrup.
2 Preheat oven to 375˚F (190˚C); brush the tahini on the inside of a 10-inch (25 cm) round baking pan.
3 whisk together the semolina, baking powder, and sugar in a large bowl. Stir in the butter and then the milk until combined.
4 transfer the batter to the prepared pan and spread it out evenly; let it sit for 10 minutes.
5 Score the batter into 1-inch (2.5 cm) square or diamond shapes with a sharp knife, periodically dipping the knife in hot water and drying it off before continuing to score the batter; place 1 almond in the center of each diamond.
6 Bake until the sides and top are golden brown, about 30 minutes. (if the sides are brown but the top isn’t, you can broil the cake for a couple minutes to brown the top.)
7 Once out of the oven, cut the cake along the lines you scored. Slowly pour the cooled syrup onto the hot cake. Let the cake sit at room temperature 2 hours to absorb the syrup before serving.
Toasted Semolina Pudding with Cinnamon MAMOUNIEH
Unlike most puddings that are usually served as dessert, this pudding is more commonly eaten for breakfast. A de-salted cheese that melts nicely is a common addition or accompaniment and adds flavor, texture, and protein. (See Middle Eastern Cheese on page 21.)
Serves 4
Preparation Time: 2 minutes
Cooking Time: 15 minutes
3 cups (750 ml) water
½ cup (120 g) sugar
4 tablespoons clarified butter (or 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and 2 tablespoons canola oil)
½ cup (80 g) semolina flour
¼ teaspoon cinnamon, plus more to sprinkle on top
¾ teaspoon rose water
¾ teaspoon orange blossom water
1 Add the water and sugar to a medium, thick-bottomed saucepan, and bring to a simmer over medium heat, giving the pan an occasional swirl. Once simmering, turn off heat and stir to fully dissolve sugar.
2 Melt the clarified butter in a medium, thick-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat; stir in the semolina and cook until it’s a light golden color and nutty smelling, about
3 to 5 minutes.
3 Add the sugar water, turn the heat up to medium, and bring up to a boil; turn the heat down to simmer and cook until thickened to your desired consistency, about 3 to 5 minutes, whisking constantly.
4 turn off the heat and stir in the cinnamon, rose water, and orange blossom water. Pour into 4 individual serving cups, cool to room temperature and then refrigerate to chill.
5 Before serving, sprinkle a little more cinnamon on top.
AIMA’A
This ice cream basically tastes like Rose and Orange Blossom-Scented Milk Pudding (page 127), but in ice cream form. Like that pudding, this ice cream is famous in the Bakdash ice Cream Parlor in Damascus’s Souk al hamidiya. There you can see the ice cream being first beaten and then stretched; it’s the mastic that gives it its chewy, taffy-like quality.
Serves 16
Preparation Time: 5 minutes, plus time for the ice cream to chill and process in an ice cream maker
Cooking Time: 35 minutes
2 tablespoons sahlab powder mix (or 2 tablespoons cornstarch plus ½ teaspoon orange blossom water)
8 cups (1.75 liters) plus 2 tablespoons whole milk, divided
2 cups (450 g) sugar
1/3 teaspoon gum mastic (gum Arabic), ground in a mortar and pestle
1½ teaspoons rose water
½ cup (55 g) finely chopped pistachios (for serving)
1 Dissolve the sahlab in 2 tablespoons of milk in a small bowl. Combine the dissolved sahlab with the remaining 8 cups (1.75 liters) of milk, sugar, and mastic in a thick-bottomed medium-large saucepan over medium heat.
2 Bring up to a boil, stirring frequently; boil for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Turn off the heat and stir in the rose water, then strain through a fine mesh sieve.
3 Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until well chilled (about 2 hours).
4 transfer the chilled mixture to an ice cream machine and process according to the manufacturer’s directions.
5 Once processed, put the ice cream in a freezer-safe bowl and transfer to the freezer to set (about 2 to 4 hours). While the ice cream is setting in the freezer, take it out and give it a stir every so often.
6 when you’re ready to serve the ice cream, let it sit at room temperature until slightly softened, about 5 to 10 minutes. Scoop out the amount of ice cream you’re serving into a large bowl, and stir it with a large metal spoon (like you would stir a cake batter) until it’s smooth and creamy, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to individual serving bowls and sprinkle ½ tablespoon of chopped pistachios on top of each serving.
