Coming Home to Roost
“We gave ourselves the patience and time with chicken that we did not allow ourselves with fries. Had it not been for that fiasco with fries, we never would have had such a success with chicken.”
—ZACH KOFF, CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER
Thursday, January 14, 2016, may have been the first time in the history of Wall Street that a chicken sandwich opened trading on the floor of the New York Stock Exchange. With that opening bell, the new Chick’n Shack was launched. And for us it was a big deal, the first non-beef protein, and the first major menu addition in a decade. New York was having a major chicken moment. That fall, Chick-fil-A had entered the New York market with their biggest store ever. The previous June, David Chang had premiered Fuku, the beginning of a growing empire, serving spicy, batter-fried chicken thighs on a potato bun (daikon slaw optional). One month later, on July 7, only at the three Brooklyn Shake Shacks, we had test-launched Chick’n Shack—an all-natural chicken breast, slow-cooked in buttermilk marinade, hand-dipped in batter, dredged in seasoned flour, fried, then topped with Buttermilk Herb Mayo. The demand was so great that less than 48 hours later, Randy had to announce on Instagram that they’d run out of chicken; the sandwich would be discontinued for two weeks. In three days, those three Shacks had sold more than 5,000 chicken sandwiches.
Mark: We knew we needed more chickens! We knew we had something really exciting here, we wanted to bring it back as fast as possible, but then we didn’t know if that demand would hold. So we actually took the time to think it through, and agreed: “It’s not acceptable to ever run out again.” So we said, “Hey guys, we’re sorry we ran out, but we promise you, when it comes back, this will not happen again.”
Randy: Remember, when we were developing chicken, we were really scarred by fresh fries. This time, there was no way we were going to allow ourselves to launch something that didn’t work. We knew that the only way a chicken sandwich could happen was through a scalable solution that was also really tasty—creating a juicy chicken sandwich cooked to order.
Mark: Two years before that we’d thought about turkey burgers; we had Pat LaFrieda grind us chicken burgers. But we could never get excited about them. Yet we knew beef prices were fluctuating, and we knew we needed a protein alternative. Then we tried grilled chicken, the somewhat healthy option.
Randy: Then Jeff Amoscato found a producer from Chicago who could prepare chicken sous vide [sealed in an airtight bag and cooked in a low temperature water bath that preserves flavor and texture]. And then we had a big tasting with Danny where we were all excited about grilled chicken. And he wrote on his testing sheet: “Yuck. Dry.”
Mark: Then we tried fried chicken. That took us another year, because of the great debate over how to do it. We agreed that the best fried chicken had a nice, thick crust, and just taking the sous vide breast out of the bag, tossing it in flour, and frying it was not a great experience. We realized it’s the crispy bits that make fried chicken excellent.
Randy: This never would have been possible had we not gone through the fresh fry exercise. Only because we added all those fryers could we make fried chicken. So, talk about a silver lining.
Mark: We worked on so many iterations: Brine? Buttermilk? We knew double-dipping in flour would destroy the fry station with flour everywhere. Finally, we said, what if we just add more buttermilk to the flour and make a thick, crunchy batter?
Randy: Just born out of necessity, we created a better process. And it taught us operation. We went through three different tests at three different Shacks with three different types of equipment. So with chicken, we did everything we didn’t do with fries.
Mark: Danny liked fried chicken with ShackSauce, so we started to work on a spicy version. When we showed it to the operators, and they said, “Well, ShackSauce and spicy ShackSauce look so similar. What if someone wants spicy ShackSauce on their ShackBurger? How will you tell which is which?”
Randy: This is a really important point, because everybody really loved the spicy ShackSauce. It was ready to go. But this is where operations again forced us to find a better tasting item.
Mark: Which was kind of amazing, ’cause efficiency actually drove creativity.
Randy: Yes. And that was the important moment when Zach called and said, “This is just going to be hard to do.” And I said, “Come on, man! Can’t you just figure it out?” You know, fresh fries? Just figure it out! That reality check sent us back to the drawing table where we created the buttermilk herb mayo that just made the whole sandwich.
The first grilled chicken tasting drew an unenthusiastic rating from Danny.
Chick'n & Rocky in Philly.
The Taste of Things to Come
Inside the quarterly tasting session, where new menu ideas go to live or die.
As the tasting team gathers quarterly to evaluate and debate, the air is thick with questions: “Can we cut sugar in half in drinks like lemonade and 50/50?” “Is the cheese gooey and creamy enough on the new Bacon Cheddar Shack?” “How ’bout shortbread for our new crunchy, non-chocolate Concrete?” “What if we did those big New York pretzels for Shacktoberfest?” Chicken tenders are universally applauded. Not at Shacks yet, but see this page! And will this group ever find a griddled chicken sandwich to love?
Pink shirts are optional at the tasting at Brooklyn’s Fulton Street Shack. Tasters, from left, Randy Garutti, Edwin Bragg, Jeff Amoscato, Zach Koff, and Mark Rosati.
Left, Senior Culinary R & D Manager Allison Oesterle with Mark.
“Does kale ever belong on a Shack sandwich?”
“Why does Shacktoberfest start in September?”
LOCAL HERO
CHICAGO, IL
Finding a dependable source for antibiotic-free chicken was the issue that stood between Shake Shack and an alternative protein source. In a chance encounter that proved fortuitous for both, Jeff Amoscato met Ruprecht president Walter Sommers at a trade show.
Ruprecht, said to be the oldest operating food company in Chicago, could indeed provide the quality and quantity of chicken Jeff was eager to find.
Sommers’s family had acquired the company in the 1960s, and Walter's leadership had since turned Ruprecht’s expertise toward cooking and developing products. Yes they could source antibiotic-free chickens and process the breasts before delivery. This was a perfect solution for Shake Shack, loath to bring another uncooked protein into its kitchens.
Sommers recalls years of experimenting before the eventual rollout: “The first massive testing of the chicken sandwich pitted about thirty different versions against each other.”
Anatomy of a Chick'n Shack
BUTTERMILK This miracle ingredient works twice—once as the tenderizing agent in the marinade for the raw chicken breasts and again as the base of the tangy Buttermilk Herb Mayo for the finished sandwich.
SEASONED FLOUR One of the tricks to achieving the crispiest crust is to add a bunch of baking powder to the flour along with cayenne, smoked paprika, salt and pepper, and a flavor hit of celery salt.
CHICKEN BREAST We serve only antibiotic-free chicken for all the obvious health reasons and suggest you do, too. Each Chick’n Shack is made with one skinless, boneless chicken breast, about 6 oz. each, halved crosswise.
BUTTERMILK HERB MAYO Not only is the raw chicken marinated in buttermilk, but this Southern-inspired buttermilk mayo is the sauce that makes the difference on the sandwich.
PICKLES After lots of tasting, we chose the vinegary crunch of kosher dill pickle slices to balance the richness of the sandwich.
SHREDDED LETTUCE We’re looking for fresh crunch here against the crispy fried chicken. So we use the bottom half of a head of green leaf lettuce, shredded fine, and layer it on the sandwich.
POTATO BUNS There’s not a softer companion to the crunchy Chick’n Shack than the very same beloved non-GMO Martin’s Potato Roll we use with our ShackBurgers.
Making Chick’n Shack
At the Shack, we marinate and slow-cook our chicken sous-vide; you’ll come close with this buttermilk double dip.
1. Refrigerate halved chicken breasts in Buttermilk Marinade at least 1 hour and up to overnight.
2. Dredge chicken breasts in seasoned flour and set them aside.
3. DO IT AGAIN! (This is the trick.) Quickly submerge floured chicken breasts in marinade, and then in seasoned flour.
4. Fry the chicken in batches in canola oil at 350°F until brown and crisp, about 5 minutes.
5. Transfer fried chicken to paper towels to drain.
MAKES 4
This recipe may look simple, but getting there took two years! There were so many variables: how to season the flour, the marinade, the sauce? Spicy or sweet? Our core question was: What makes a great chicken sandwich? The chicken! Where to find enough good, all-natural meat? And how to portion it? The ideal for 4 is: 2 thinly sliced skinless, boneless chicken breasts, halved crosswise, about 6 oz. each. At the Shacks we steep the chicken in a tenderizing sous vide bath; at home, it’s a buttermilk marinade.
Buttermilk Marinade:
2cups buttermilk
1small shallot, peeled and sliced
½small jalapeño, halved
½small clove garlic, peeled and smashed
2teaspoons salt
¼teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Seasoned Flour:
3½cups flour
4teaspoons baking powder
3teaspoons kosher salt
2½teaspoons smoked paprika
1½teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1teaspoon cayenne
1teaspoon celery salt
2thinly sliced, skinless boneless chicken breasts, about 6 oz. each, halved crosswise
Canola oil for deep-frying
4tablespoons Buttermilk Herb Mayo
4hamburger potato buns, buttered and toasted (this page)
12round kosher dill pickle slices
2pieces green leaf lettuce, shredded in long strips
For the Buttermilk Marinade: mix together all ingredients in a medium mixing bowl. Set aside.
For the Seasoned Flour: whisk together all ingredients in a deep wide dish. Set aside.
2. Add the chicken breasts to the bowl of buttermilk marinade. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours.
3. Life one piece of chicken at a time from the marinade, and dredge really well in the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess flour.
4. Return the chicken to the marinade, fully submerge one more time, then dredge again in the seasoned flour. Shake off excess flour and set aside. Discard the marinade.
5. Pour the oil into a heavy, deep pot to a depth of 4 inches. Heat over medium heat until the temperature of the oil reaches 350°F on a candy thermometer.
6. Use a wire spider or slotted spoon to carefully lower the chicken into the hot oil. Fry 2 pieces of chicken at a time until the crust is deep golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to paper towels to drain.
7. Spread the Buttermilk Herb Mayo on the bottom of the bun. Add 3 pickle slices and a quarter of the shredded lettuce. Transfer the chicken to the prepared buns and serve.
• Chick’n Shack & Chardonnay. Fried chicken + crisp lettuce + mayo + potato bun = heaven. Add Chardonnay and you’ve got, well, heaven and a glass of Chardonnay! I love how the tart-meets-tang of the Buttermilk Herb Mayo sauce on the chicken is enhanced by the tart-meets-pomme-fruit of a Chardonnay. Steer clear of an overly buttery Chardonnay, because the wine’s characteristic brightness works so well with the savory crisply fried chicken and the sweetness of the bun.
—Jonah Beer, Frog’s Leap
MAKES 4
These crispy bite-size pieces are the obvious extension of the Chick’n Shack. We like to make them for a big party (and for the kids!) served with Buttermilk Herb Mayo. They’re great with our Salt & Pepper Honey Sauce (this page), too.
2thinly sliced boneless skinless chicken breasts, about 6 ounces each
Canola oil for deep-frying
1 cup Buttermilk Herb Mayo, optional
1. Cut the chicken into thirds lengthwise, then crosswise into pieces about 2 inches wide.
2. Follow the directions in the Chick’n Shack recipe for marinating, dredging, and deep-frying the chicken pieces.
3. Drain the deep-fried chicken pieces on paper towels. Serve with the mayonnaise.
MAKES 2 CUPS
2cups Hellmann’s mayonnaise
2tablespoons buttermilk
2teaspoons white wine vinegar
1tablespoon finely chopped parsley
2teaspoons finely chopped chives
¼teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
½teaspoon kosher salt
¼teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Put all the ingredients into a medium mixing bowl and stir until well combined.
MAKES 4
Once we figured out the Chick’n Shack recipe, it opened up a whole range of possibilities. A sweet/savory topping for fried chicken was always in the back of our minds. This honey sauce, so well balanced with salt and pepper, is a great alternative.
6tablespoons your favorite honey
½teaspoon salt
¼teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4pieces Chick’n Shack
4hamburger potato buns, buttered and toasted (this page)
1. Combine the honey and the salt and pepper in a small bowl and set aside.
2. Place each piece of chicken on a toasted bun and spoon at least 1 tablespoon of sauce on top.
• Chick’n Shack & ShackMeister Ale. Even though ShackMeister Ale preceded the Chick’n Shack by several years, it makes a great pairing. Pilsners and lighter IPAs are nice here too, but what’s really fun is how this sandwich brings new beers into the mix. For example, the Chick’n Shack is great with Berliner Weisse and new-fangled “kettle sours,” both of them tart with a bright lemony acidity. Now you’ll want a second sandwich!
—Garrett Oliver, Brooklyn Brewery
MAKES 4
This sandwich is inspired by a collaboration with our friend Erik Bruner-Yang, chef of Maketto and Toki Underground in Washington, D.C. Our idea was to come as close to Peking duck as we could using our Chick’n Shack. We only served it in D.C. for 10 days, but you can make it anytime.
¾cup hoisin sauce
4hamburger potato buns, buttered and toasted (this page)
4pieces Chick’n Shack
4tablespoons sliced scallion greens
8thin slices cucumber rounds
8kosher dill pickle chips
1. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the hoisin sauce in the center of the bottom bun, and another tablespoon of the sauce on the top bun.
2. Place fried chicken on the bottom bun. Spoon 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce on the chicken, then layer the scallions, cucumbers, and pickles on top.
“We all know how good it feels when that buzzer starts buzzing. We all know how good it feels to be in a pizza parlor and the server comes to your table with your piping-hot pizza. That feeling of anticipation is, as much as anything, at the core of this business.”
—DANNY MEYER
MAKES 1 QUART
This drink, sometimes called the Arnold Palmer, is the most thirst-quenching combination. The iced tea tempers the sweetness of the lemonade.
Stir together 2 cups lemonade and 2 cups cold freshly brewed tea in a large pitcher. Keep chilled in the refrigerator. Serve over ice.
MAKES 1 QUART
We’ve been turning out fresh lemonade since that first hot dog cart in the park. The only thing that’s changed is that now we offer a rotating roster of seasonal flavors, such as Strawberry Mint in spring and Peach Lemonade in summer.
Put 1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 8 lemons) and 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar into a large pitcher. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Add 3 cups cold water and stir well. Keep lemonade chilled and serve over ice.
Strawberry Mint Lemonade: Add ⅓ cup strawberry puree and 8 large fresh mint leaves to lemonade.
Peach Lemonade: Add ½ cup white peach purée to lemonade.