The growing popularity of fish and shellfish is hardly a surprise. Seafood is a rich source of protein, vitamins, and minerals and is low in fat. And oily fish, such as salmon and tuna, are high in omega-3 fatty acids, which can lower blood cholesterol levels.
BUYING FISH
AND SHELLFISH
The surface of a whole fish should glisten but not look slimy. Ask the fishmonger to show you the gills; they should be bright red with no tinge of brown. The eyes should not be sunken, but don’t worry if they are clouded over, because the eyes of some fish lose their shine soon after they are caught.
Fish fillets and steaks are often sold in plastic-wrapped trays. Look for fish that appears moist and has no gaps in the flesh, which should feel firm through the plastic. The meat of dark fish, such as tuna, should not contain any rainbow streaks.
Mollusks (including clams, mussels, and oysters), must be purchased alive because their viscera deteriorate quickly once dead. Tightly closed shells indicate the mollusks are alive, but if you tap a gaping shell and it closes, it’s also fine. Don’t buy mollusks with broken shells. And if a clam or mussel feels especially heavy, it could be filled with mud, so discard it. Mollusks sold out of their shells, like scallops and squid, should be as sweet smelling as an ocean breeze. And the siphons of soft-shell clams should retract slightly when touched.
Crustaceans, including crabs and lobsters, should be purchased alive from a store with a large turnover and appear lively. Fresh shrimp should also be subjected to the sniff test; black spots on the shell mean the shrimp are over the hill.
STORING FISH
AND SHELLFISH
• Keep fish and shellfish as cold as possible. Have the seafood you purchase packed in ice, or place it in the same bag as your frozen food.
• Store fish in the coldest part of the refrigerator, where the temperature is between 35° and 40°F. Or store on ice: Fill a baking dish with ice, and place the wrapped seafood on top, replenishing the ice as needed. You can also cover frozen artificial ice packets with a kitchen towel and place the wrapped fish on top.
• It is especially important to keep oily fish, such as mackerel and bluefish, as cold as possible. Their high fat content means they can go rancid quickly at less-than-ideal temperatures.
• If you must freeze seafood, be sure it is very fresh, and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and heavy-duty foil. Freeze for up to three months.
• Shellfish should also be placed in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Store live clams, mussels, and oysters in a large bowl covered with a wet towel; use within one day. Refrigerate crabs in a tightly closed heavy-duty paper bag poked with a few airholes; cook within one day of purchase. Lobsters should be cooked on the day of purchase because they don’t last long once out of water. Keep them well wrapped in a wet cloth or in several layers of newspaper in the refrigerator. Mussels with Tomatoes and White Wine
• Cooked crab and lobster should be eaten within one day of purchase. Shucked oysters and crabmeat are often pasteurized, which extends their shelf life but decreases their flavor.
COOKING SUCCESS
Here’s the simple secret to cooking fish successfully: Don’t overcook it. Cook it until the flesh is just opaque throughout; it will continue to cook after it has been removed from the heat.
Before cooking fillets, especially thick ones, run your fingers over the flesh to feel for any stray bones. Remove them with tweezers set aside for that purpose.
To check fish fillets or steaks for doneness, use the tip of a small knife to separate the flesh in the thickest part; it should be uniformly opaque. To check whole fish, make an incision at the backbone to see if the flesh is opaque or insert an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part near the backbone; it should read 135° to 140°F.
Before cooking clams, mussels, or oysters, scrub the shells well under cold running water to remove any surface sand and grit.
KNOW YOUR FISH
Fish is categorized two ways: by shape (round or flat) and by fat content (lean to oily). It is helpful to know the fat content, flavor, and texture of various fish so you can easily substitute one for another.
Round fish have a plump, cylindrical shape and an eye on each side of the head. The backbone runs down the center of the fish, separating the two thick fillets. Round fish are generally filleted or cut into steaks but can also be cooked whole. Common round fish include salmon, red snapper, sea bass, monkfish, and catfish.
Flatfish have wide, thin bodies with both eyes on the same side of the head. The backbone runs down the center of the fish, with two lines of bones fanning out on either side, separating the top and bottom fillets. Flatfish are usually filleted. The most common are sole, flounder, and halibut.
The fat content of a fish is a good indicator of the flavor you can expect. Lean fish make up the majority of fish. They have the blandest flavor and most delicate texture. Moderately oily fish have a slightly higher fat content, a pleasant texture, and a mild flavor. Some fish, such as tuna, can be categorized as either moderately oily or oily, depending on the species. Oily fish have flesh that is strong-tasting, firm, and meaty. They are high in omega-3 fatty acids.
FISH GLOSSARY
Here is a glossary of some of the fish you are likely to find in your market.
Arctic char Very similar to salmon; usually farm-raised. Also known as salmon trout.
Bluefish A dark-fleshed, strong-flavored, oily fish. The fresher it is, the milder the flavor.
Catfish A beloved freshwater fish of the American South. Farm-raised catfish are readily available.
Cod This saltwater fish, found in both Atlantic and Pacific waters, is known for its mild flavor and white, flaky flesh. Small cod are called scrod.
Flounder A popular flatfish with white flesh, a delicate texture, and mild flavor.
Grouper Has firm, meaty, white flesh and is sold whole or filleted.
Halibut A large flatfish with firm, flavorful flesh. Often sold as fillets, but one of the few flatfish thick enough to be cut into steaks.
Mackerel An oily fish with a pronounced fish flavor. When large, it is called Spanish mackerel.
Monkfish A favored fish in Provence, monkfish has firm flesh and a lobster like flavor.
Pompano On the West Coast, pompano is called yellowtail. It has somewhat oily flesh and a firm texture.
Red snapper An excellent all-purpose fish and one of the few fillets firm enough to be grilled.
Salmon Much of the salmon in our markets is farm-raised, even when labeled “Atlantic” or “Norwegian.” Wild salmon, such as coho, king, and sockeye, has superior flavor but is available in limited quantities.
Sole A flatfish with firm white flesh and a distinctively delicate flavor.
Striped bass Most striped bass in today’s markets is a farm-raised hybrid of striped bass and white bass.
Swordfish A fish with a firm and meaty texture that is a good choice for broiling and grilling.
Trout Rainbow trout and brook trout are about 12 ounces each and serve one person.
Tuna A huge fish with plenty of muscle and flavor. The most common varieties are bluefin, yellowfin, albacore, and skipjack. Tuna is also known as ahi and bonito.
KNOW YOUR SHELLFISH
Mollusks have soft bodies that are protected by shells consisting of one or more parts. This glossary lists the most popular shellfish.
Clams. Hard-shell clams, the most common Atlantic Coast variety, are categorized by size. Littlenecks are the smallest, cherrystones are medium, and chowder clams are the largest.
Soft-shell clams have delicate shells that don’t completely close because of the long necklike siphon that protrudes between the two halves of the shell. On the East Coast, they are usually called steamers, because they are so delicious when steamed. They are also know as Ipswich clams, so named for the location of one of the largest clam beds. West Coast soft-shell clams include the huge geoduck (GOO-ee-duck) and the long razor clam.
Mussels Most markets carry blue mussels, which have bluish black shells and are harvested wild or cultivated. New Zealand green mussels are slightly larger and have a bright green shell.
Oysters Oysters are usually named for the location of their beds: Wellfleet, Chincoteague, and Apalachicola on the East Coast andWestcott Bay, Tomales Bay, and the tiny Olympia on the West Coast are examples.
Scallops Sea scallops are gathered year round and are relatively large. Small bay scallops are only available in the fall and winter. Calico scallops are very small, but they have the least flavor and the toughest texture.
Squid Also called calamari, many fish markets sell it already cleaned.
CRUSTACEANS
Crustaceans have elongated bodies that are covered by jointed shells.
Crab On the West Coast, there is Dungeness crab, whose season runs from October to April. King crab, usually from Alaska, provides the large legs that are sold fresh or frozen. Small blue crabs are found along the East and Gulf Coasts. The large pieces of meat from the body are sold as lump, jumbo, or backfin crabmeat.
Soft-shell crabs Blue crabs caught during the short period after they have shed their hard shells and before their new, soft shells have hardened. They are available fresh from May to September.
Stone crabs Popular in Florida, the claws are harvested, and the rest of the crab is tossed back into the water so new claws can regenerate.
Lobster There are two types: American (Maine) lobster, from the North Atlantic coast, and rock (spiny) lobster, which is harvested off Florida, California, Australia, and New Zealand. It is usually sold as frozen lobster tail.
Shrimp More than 95 percent of the shrimp sold has been previously frozen. Warm-water shrimp live in tropical waters and are usually categorized by the color of their shell: pink, white, blue, or black tiger.