6 The Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method

Now that you have become accustomed to the three steps of the basic Lancer Anti-Aging Method—polish, cleanse, nourish—and are pleased by the improvements you have seen, you might want to boost your skin’s healing even further by adding intensive anti-aging steps to your daily regimen. If your skin has suffered sun damage, doing more for your complexion at home will have great benefits. Everyone should do the three-step program for at least a month before taking the treatment up a notch. You have to give your skin time to come to life without overwhelming it. After a month of faithful skin care, you will begin to see your skin brighten. It will be more refined, the texture smoother, and the tone more even. The changes might be dramatic or subtle, but they will be there, leaving you wanting more.

Skin improvements can be compared to losing weight. The more weight you have to lose, the easier it is to take off the pounds, especially at the beginning. If you have not paid much attention to skin care, the improvements that result from my three-step method will be early and striking. If you have done everything in an attempt to stay young, it’s as if you have been yo-yo dieting, and you have to work harder to see results. You try the latest product and every procedure you hear about from your friends, but nothing lasts. You struggle to maintain the appearance you have achieved, but it’s a slippery slope. If you do not repeat expensive procedures, you end up looking worse than you did before. And I am not even mentioning potential complications from these procedures. At a time when everyone wants a quick fix, it can be difficult to be patient, have faith, and put in the work. You might think, Why bother with a skin care regimen if a single procedure can correct the problem instantly? I am here to tell you that any procedure involves a risk. In my years of experience, I have learned that some things work for some people some of the time, and outcomes are not necessarily predictable. That is why I am conservative with my treatment plans.

One morning at ten forty-five a petite forty-six-year-old woman of mixed European ancestry, an LES III to IV, was waiting for me in a treatment room. Her skin looked dusty, and she had first-or second-degree burns on her face. She had made an appointment with a prominent dermatologist for a peel. Though she did not have a regular skin care regimen, her skin was in relatively good shape. Instead of simple skin care, she wanted a quick fix to look her best for her son’s wedding.

Her dermatologist gave her a mild, safe, exfoliating peel. First, her skin was cleansed with a glycolic cleanser to remove the oils and corneocytes on the skin’s surface. Then the solution was applied. It burns slightly before the acid is neutralized and the solution removed with cold water. The deeper exfoliation normally produces peeling and flaking for three or four days. Within a week, the skin should look healthier and smoother. She was in my office because this did not happen in her case.

After examining the uneven quality of the burns, I realized that the cleaning of her skin before the application of the solution had been inadequate. The saturation of the peel was uneven as a result. The separation of the exfoliated skin cells had been incomplete, leaving textural changes.

She looked as if she had fallen asleep in the sun. Her LES III to IV skin was pitted, crusty, and inflamed. She had daily treatments at the office of her original doctor for a week to moisten, hydrate, and peel away the burned surface. Before seeing me, she had consulted with three other doctors and two aestheticians. The result before my eyes was total “rummage sale” skin.

I had one of my aestheticians use an LED red light treatment to calm the inflammation and instruct her on the three-step program.

I cannot tell you how many times I have seen preventive anti-aging attempts damage the skin of people trying to take care of themselves. Random procedures without a program or plan can result in pitted marks, brown spots, papular inflammatory acne, and skin as thin as cigarette paper. Procedures performed independent of a program are always risky. You might find yourself struggling to repair your skin and just bring it back to neutral. You need a plan and an approach to fight aging. Do not enter the anti-aging arena by trying a procedure right away. The Lancer Method will prepare your skin to maximize the benefits of any treatments you choose in the future. This is true for the entire skin surface, not just the face.

The Takeaway: A dermatologist can put together a personalized menu for you that will combine products and treatments to take your skin step-by-step to the best it can be. Don’t push the process too fast.

ADDING MORE TREATMENT TO YOUR DAILY REGIMEN

You are about to expand your at-home treatment beyond the use of sunblock.

The type of skin care products you will gradually add to your daily routine are:

Keratolytics that enhance the penetration of the other products you are using and make your skin feel smoother.
Anti-oxidants to minimize the breakdown of collagen and protect the DNA of the keratinocytes.
Retinoids to increase the production of collagen and elastin, restore cell renewal timing, and even out pigmentation.
Lightening agents to neutralize and even out your skin color.
Peptides, a very expensive skin care ingredient, contribute to the skin’s structural strength.
Surrounded by confusion and controversy, stem cells are the new frontier in skin care. Stem cells are undifferentiated or “blank” cells that have the potential to develop into a variety of cell types that carry out different functions. Most cells in the human body are built to function in a particular organ system and to carry out a specific function. Stem cells can replenish their numbers through cell divisions longer than other cells, and they can transform into specialized cells like skin cells. Stem-cell-derived products are used in skin care products to create a protein-signaling cascade to get your cells to shape up and do a better job.
Stabilizing agents to keep your skin moisturized.

As you begin the Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method, you will add one product at a time and start slowly. If you go for a mixed cocktail of all the new treatments to start, your skin will be in for a shock and would react accordingly, turning red and flaky. It could take you anywhere from four to six months to incorporate all the treatments into your routine. Remember: There are no quick fixes with the Lancer Method. Your skin will improve steadily as you provide what it needs to rejuvenate.

A QUICK GUIDE TO ANTI-AGING INGREDIENTS

You will be working your way up to using a number of products that will help to restore your skin. Skin care product manufacturers often spotlight a particular ingredient and invest it with magical, transformative powers. Do not be tricked by their unfounded claims. It is worth your time to know the ingredients to look for on the labels of the products you buy. The products in the list that follows have been scientifically tested and proven to affect the skin positively. There is a whole new category of ingredients that have been labeled “cosmeceuticals,” because they have drug-like effects on the skin’s structure and functions. These ingredients have proven anti-aging attributes. Some have healing properties for acne, rosacea, and sensitive skin as well. After all, these conditions are all on the same continuum of inflammation.

Glycosaminoglycans

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are the body’s natural moisturizers. They hold moisture within skin cells and provide volume, elasticity, and firmness. The most common GAG found in the body is hyaluronic acid.

Keratolytic Agents: AHAs, Glycolic Acid, BHA, Salicylic Acid

These ingredients are exfoliants that remove dead and damaged cells, reducing fine lines, age spots, discoloration, and acne scars. They invigorate, add radiance to the skin, and allow other anti-aging ingredients to penetrate faster, deeper, and more effectively, because they disrupt the stratum corneum. These acids break the bond between the dead cells of the stratum corneum and the skin beneath. It may be helpful to know that retinoids may be deactivated by simultaneous application of AHAs.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Glycolic Acid

AHAs are water-soluble. They have a positive effect on sun-damaged skin. AHAs bind moisture and improve collagen production. Glycolic acid is the original AHA used in skin care products. It can irritate and scar darker skins. Introduce AHAs gradually to your regimen, starting once a week. Using a product that contains the AHA mandelic or malic acid may be safer for darker skin ethnicities.

Beta Hydroxy Acid and Salicylic Acid

Since these exfoliants are fat-soluble, they can penetrate the oil in pores, unclogging them and clearing the debris. Their anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties make them effective with oily skin prone to blackheads, and acne. BHAs also reduce redness from rosacea.

A very well-maintained woman in her late fifties wanted to explore better-quality skin care and in-office treatments. She’d had a mini lower neck lift five years earlier and was disappointed with the results. It was painful, she had scarring, and she did not look as great as she’d expected to. Her husband thought the procedure was a waste of money.

She had followed the crowd. So many of her women friends had chosen surgical intervention, and all they talked about was their procedures. So she jumped right in and committed to the mini lift, which she regrets doing to this day.

She came to see me because she wanted to perk things up, to look fresher, but she was not willing even to consider anything invasive. We talked for a while. Agreeing to try better-quality skin care, she was willing to give the Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method a chance.

I am glad to see that more and more women are coming to this conclusion about invasive quick fixes. For many of them, once is enough. Rarely do the results meet their expectations, and those are the lucky ones. On top of that disappointment, many feel they threw their money away. Then there are those who have had disastrous results. Scarring, pain, sides of the face not matching, and additional expense to correct problems have made that group say, “Never again!” Almost all of the people I see do not want to return to that arena if they have been there before. They prefer to take care of their skin themselves and to enhance their efforts now and then with non-invasive treatments. With such amazing advances in treatment options, cosmetic, anti-aging surgery will become a thing of the past.

The Takeaway: Skin care combined with non-invasive treatments is the wave of the future.

Anti-Oxidants

Anti-oxidants save cells from environmental damage. As you already know, anti-oxidants turn scavenging free radicals into harmless compounds and stop them from destroying DNA, collagen, and elastin. Topical anti-oxidants supplement the body’s innate defense to neutralize free radicals. They boost cell repair, stimulate collagen production, and reduce blotchiness. Although some anti-oxidants multi-task, they are more powerful when they work in packs, because they tackle free radicals in different ways. Here are some specific topical anti-oxidants and what each does.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

Known as the workhorse of anti-aging ingredients, vitamin C is the most abundant anti-oxidant in your skin. Not only does it neutralize those age-promoting free radicals that cause inflammation, but vitamin C contributes to the production of new collagen, thickening the skin and reducing fine lines and wrinkles. This powerhouse strengthens the skin barrier by stimulating the production of lipids, which keep the skin from drying out. Vitamin C works synergistically with vitamin E to boost the effectiveness of sunscreen, further protecting the skin from sun damage. At concentrations of 5 percent or higher, vitamin C works to correct hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C enhances the repair process you will already be stimulating with the Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method.

Vitamin E (Tocophenols, Tocotrienols, Tocophenyl Acetate)

This vitamin, which is fat-soluble, is concentrated mainly in the stratum corneum to absorb the oxidative stress from UV radiation. It protects cell membranes and prevents collagen from being destroyed by UV rays. Vitamin E boosts the skin’s natural moisture retention mechanisms. It protects from the formation of age spots and scarring.

Alpha Lipoic Acid

This anti-oxidant is found in every cell of the body. Alpha lipoic acid protects against environmental stressors, including UV radiation, cigarette smoke, auto exhaust, and ozone, all of which can cause oxidative stress. It erases fine lines, diminishes pores, and gives the skin radiance. It is both water- and fat-soluble, which makes it very versatile.

Coenzyme Q10

As you age, your body makes less of the anti-oxidant CoQ10. It has been shown to reduce facial wrinkles, particularly around the eyes. Its anti-aging actions include promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts, which produce collagen and intracellular matrix, and enhancing production of the cells in the epidermal basal membrane.

Selenium

This essential trace mineral has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. Selenium helps prevent skin cancer by protecting cell membranes from oxidative deterioration and UV ray damage. This mineral works synergistically with vitamin E.

Retinoids (Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate)

Retinol is a key ingredient for skin renewal. It is a vitamin A derivative that acts on DNA to promote healthy keratinocytes, which results in desired epidermal thickening. Retinol stimulates growth hormones to increase the production of collagen and elastin as it decreases the production of collagenase, the enzyme that eats up collagen. Retinoids sweep away dull, dead cells and speed up cell turnover and repair. The powerful ingredient pumps up circulation in the skin and increases blood vessel formation. And it does not end with that. Retinoids also shrink oil glands and tighten the skin.

When you first begin to use products containing retinoids, your skin might become scaly. If it does, cut back how often you use it. Your sensitivity to the product should stop in about six to eight weeks. Retinoids can make your skin sensitive to the sun for up to several months. Be certain to use sunscreen when you have added a product containing a retinoid to your skin care routine.

Skin Brighteners

The number one concern of most of my patients is the desire to even out their skin tone. They want to reduce blotchiness and mottled skin and eliminate sun spots. Skin brighteners are often used for pre-procedure conditioning to reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation for patients with an LES of IV or V. Brighteners work by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which signals the production of melanin in the skin.

Red Algae Extract (Palmaria palmata; Oligosaccharide)

This extract from marine algae revitalizes and moisturizes stressed skin by protecting the dermal matrix and stimulating and protecting the epidermal barrier. It fights against redness and uneven skin tone as well.

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

This is a new lightening and brightening ingredient. It’s an anti-oxidant that is effective in influencing the formation of pigmentation.

Hydroquinone

This is an effective skin lightener that may or may not have some serious health risks, particularly for people with darker complexions. Since it blocks the production of melanin, the skin’s protection from UV rays is diminished, resulting in increased cancer risk. Many darker-skinned women have found that using the substance can whiten the skin long-term, or cause excess discoloration. Hydroquinone is frowned upon in some countries around the world, but not in the United States. When you choose a skin brightener, make certain other brighteners are in the compound and that hydroquinone is not the first ingredient. Hydroquinone can be an irritant, particularly in concentrations of 4 percent or more and when combined with tretinoin.

The beauty industry has been looking for skin lighteners that are as effective.

Alpha-Arbutin

Alpha-arbutin is derived from the leaves of blueberry, mulberry, cranberry, and bearberry bushes. It is a natural source of hydroquinone and has the same melanin-inhibiting properties. It has been found to be a somewhat effective alternative to hydroquinone.

Resveratrol

Resveratrol is a powerful anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory found in red grape skin that suppresses excess melanin production. You might know it as the “red wine anti-oxidant.” That is why you will find grape seed oil in skin care products. It is also found in açaí oil, made from a South American berry. In addition, the spice turmeric is a source of resveratrol. Resveratrol also improves mitochondrial function, the production of energy in the cells.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid, a component of wheat, barley, rye, and other grains, is used to treat acne. It has proven helpful in treating skin discolorations.

Kojic Acid

This acid is produced by the fermentation of rice in the production of sake. It is a somewhat effective melanin inhibitor. Kojic acid is an unstable ingredient, but kojic dipalmitate, an anti-oxidant, is more stable and used in cosmetics.

Licorice Extract

Produced from the root of the licorice plant, licorice extract is recommended for treating eczema, psoriasis, herpes, and canker sores. Liquiritin, a substance found in licorice, has been found effective in treating melasma, a hyperpigmentation disorder. Manufacturers are beginning to use the extract in cosmetic products.

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. Since they are too big to penetrate the skin barrier, they are engineered in the lab for skin care products and synthesized into different combinations so that they can enter the stratum corneum and affect the functioning of the epidermis and dermis. For example, fatty acids can be added to form lipopeptides, which enhance penetration into the skin.

Peptides were first used topically to heal wounds and reduce the formation of scar tissue, promoting the production of normal skin cells. Peptides are used to regulate the growth rates of skin cells, to limit oxidation, and to create an anti-inflammatory environment—all optimal healing conditions. To counter the effects of aging, your skin needs the same regenerative actions, which is why peptides have made their way into anti-aging products.

Several kinds of peptides are used for skin care:

Pentapeptides are created when five peptides are linked together. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is a signal peptide that stimulates collagen and elastin production.
Oligopeptides contain six, seven, or more linked peptide units. Those with seven units can be called heptapeptides. They also stimulate collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production. One common ingredient in beauty products is palmitoyl oligopeptide.
Copper peptides, the hookup of a peptide with a copper molecule, are carrier peptides that are small enough to travel into the dermis to stimulate collagen growth and boost skin healing. The copper acts as an anti-oxidant.
Neuropeptides affect neurotransmitters in the skin, relaxing nerve cells and blocking the transmission of signals from nerves to facial muscles. Hexapeptide-48, a nature-derived neuro-calming peptide, is believed to act as a “minor” neurotoxin like Botox to relax wrinkles. More research has to be done to establish the effectiveness of neuropeptides.

Peptide signals to fibroblasts and skin cells contribute significantly to refreshing your skin. A list of the curative actions of peptides will give you a clear picture of why they are an important part of any anti-aging skin care plan:

Stimulate dermal fibroblasts to produce collagen
Down-regulate the production of collagenase, the enzyme that eats up collagen
Stimulate anti-oxidant enzymes
Enhance matrix proteins
Regulate wound healing and cell repair
Speed up skin cell turnover
Modulate pigmentation
Produce anti-microbial activity

Peptides help to accomplish all the goals of the Lancer Method.

The Mystique of Stem Cells

A brief history of stem cell use in skin care products will clear up the misconceptions surrounding this ingredient. About twenty years ago, stem cells from human fetuses were harvested and used illegally for spinal cord, cancer, and anti-aging treatments. The use of fetal stem cells was banned in the United States for ethical reasons. The next development involved stem cells harvested from human placentas and amniotic sacs after a live birth. The stem cells were lyophilized, or freeze-dried, and converted to a powder while preserving their original biological properties. After processing, the stem cells are no longer alive. Lyophilizing the living stem cells produces proteins and enzyme derivatives that are bioactive, which is what makes the use of stem cells in treatments and products so effective.

About ten years ago there was a shift, and stem cells began to be derived from sheep placentas and amniotic sacs. The sheep are carefully raised and disease-free. No animals are harmed in harvesting the stem cells. These cell products are close to human stem cell protein. When the animal cells are processed, a protein soup that nourishes human skin is created.

Now plant sources for stem cells are popular. Though you might not think of plants as a potential source for stem cells, even plants have to reproduce. Swiss apple is currently touted as a wholesome, non-controversial source of stem cells, and is used in many popular products. Lancer Skincare products use ocean-based algae, which are rich in proteins, to nourish the skin, along with criste-marine stem cells, from a marine plant native to coastal regions of France, and lilac stem cells.

Stem cells have the power to restore your skin. Here are just a few of the benefits:

Even skin tone and lighten freckles, dark spots, and uneven pigmentation
Increase elasticity and reduce sagging
Hydrate the skin
Smooth skin, erasing lines and wrinkles
Reduce the appearance of scars and large pores
Regulate sebum production
Enhance the skin’s renewal process

Stem cell therapy triggers skin cells to reproduce and to communicate more clearly with each other. Using a firming stem cell cream is an important part of the Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method.

Luxury:

Lancer Skincare Lift Serum Intense
AmorePacific Time Response Skin Renewal Gel Creme
La Prairie Skin Caviar Liquid Lift
Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Collagenergy SPF 20

Moderate:

Clarins Extra-Firming Day Wrinkle Lifting Cream
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Plump Perfect Ultra Lift and Firm Moisture Cream SPF 30

Affordable:

NeoStrata Skin Active Cellular Restoration
Nivea Body Skin Firming Moisturizer Q10 Plus with Advanced Q10
Physicians Formula Rx 132 Expression Line Freeze Serum

Stabilizing Agents

The strength of the stratum corneum is derived from lipids, proteins, and water. Ceramides constitute half the cornified layer’s lipid or fat content. The lipids between skin cells seal them together. Ceramides are critical components of the skin barrier that keeps moisture in and pathogens out. These fats keep your skin healthy and vibrant. The ceramide content in your skin decreases with sun damage. The following ingredients boost ceramide levels and free fatty acid levels in skin:

Niacinamide (B₃)

Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that increases ceramide levels, which prevents the skin from losing water by stimulating circulation in the dermis through vasodilation. This vitamin decreases lines and wrinkles by increasing dermal protein and collagen production. It is gaining a reputation for lightening skin discoloration and reducing acne. Niacinamide is known to reduce the yellowing of skin, which results from the glycation of proteins that comes with aging. As an anti-oxidant, it improves epidermal barrier function and quiets inflammation.

Hyaluronic Acid

This is a sugar produced by the body to keep tissues cushioned and lubricated. It’s found in the skin, joint fluid, and connective tissue. Hyaluronic acid levels decrease over time with aging, smoking, and unhealthy eating habits. Hyaluronic acid absorbs water and plumps up skin. When used as an ingredient in moisturizers, it helps skin to repair and regenerate in response to dryness, environmental stresses, or irritation. Hyaluronic acid is effective when combined with vitamin C to smooth skin.

Linoleic Acids and Phospholipids

These free fatty acids function to replenish the intercellular matrix. They are good communicators that increase the skin’s own anti-oxidant nature. They prevent anti-oxidant enzyme depletion and DNA degradation.

Luxury:

Lancer Skincare Intensive Night Treatment
Erno Laszlo Firmarine Night Cream
Sisley-Paris Intensive Night Cream

Moderate:

Elizabeth Arden Plump Perfect Ultra All Night Repair and Moisture Cream
Dermalogica Overnight Repair Serum
Estée Lauder Advanced Time Zone Night Age Reversing Wrinkle/Line Creme

Affordable:

Aveeno Active Naturals Skin Relief Overnight Cream, Intense Moisture
Neutrogena Naturals Multi-Vitamin Nourishing Night Cream
RoC Multi Correxion Lift Anti-Gravity Night Cream

Botanicals

Today more than seventy natural ingredients from plants have been used in skin care products. Just a few top ingredients will be covered here.

Caffeine

Caffeine used as a topical ingredient is an anti-oxidant that can inhibit the growth of skin cancer. It has the power to reduce wrinkles, especially crow’s-feet.

Isoflavones

Derived from soy, isoflavones are plant estrogens that mimic some of estrogen’s effects on the skin. Phytoestrogens couple with estrogen receptors, which are densest in the granular layer. They keep the skin from thinning and correct dryness and loss of elasticity. They are anti-oxidants that combat free radicals and increase the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid.

Green Tea

This has anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The anti-aging benefits of green tea are attributed to polyphenols, a type of flavonoids found in plants. Early studies have shown that green tea can reduce sun damage, protect skin from cancer, and decrease collagen breakdown. The polyphenols are thought to influence biochemical pathways that lead to cell regeneration.

Marula Oil

This oil comes from the fruit of the marula tree from South Africa, where it is used as a moisturizer. A hydrating ingredient, it contains high levels of omega fatty acids and anti-oxidants. Marula oil softens the skin and balances moisture levels.

Since there is such high demand for the next new wonder ingredient, research for anti-aging products is at a fever pitch. Though the beauty trap has no problem exaggerating the effects of the latest “breakthrough” in skin care, ingredients that are authentically effective are being discovered all the time. The formulations for skin care products are much more sophisticated than they were just two years ago, and topicals will only continue to improve.

HOW TO EASE INTO THE LANCER ADVANCED ANTI-AGING METHOD

To be successful with the Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method, you have to grow to understand your skin, which changes all the time and will respond to treatments differently from day to day. The weather, your mood, the varying levels of stress in your life, how much you had to drink at that party, and countless other factors affect your metabolism and the amount of oxygen that circulates to your skin. As you age, your metabolism slows—and so does oxygen transport, which fuels regeneration. The state of your skin is dynamic, not static. That is why the Lancer Method works. If the Lancer Method is going to stimulate biochemical changes in your skin, it has to react. You will make the connection among lifestyle and other factors, treatments, and the condition of your skin in time with close observation.

Taking the Lancer Method to the fine-tuned stage is a flexible, individualized process. By observing how your skin responds to new treatments, you can approach the fine-tuned Lancer Method presented in this and the next three chapters as an artist mixes a palette. It is up to you to decide when to increase the number of times a week that you use a product and when your skin is ready for layering in another treatment.

At first, some products might sting slightly, and your face might flush. If the reaction is intense and your skin becomes dry, red, and scaly, use the product only once a week until your skin drinks it in without protest. If you have a moderate reaction, do not use the product every day. Instead, use it every other day until your skin no longer reacts. You have to make a judgment about whether your skin is ready for the next step. One thing you can count on—your skin will let you know when it is not happy. Observe it closely and slow down if your skin becomes irritated in any way. You do not have to rush. The products that you are already using will be doing their work to make your skin look and behave younger. This process could take two, four, or six months, depending on your skin.

I suggest that you add a new product each week to your basic polish-cleanse-nourish-sunscreen regimen until you are doing the full Lancer Advanced Method. This is the order I recommend to introduce new products:

Week 1: Eye cream a.m./p.m.
Week 2: Vitamin C cream p.m.
Week 3: Glycolic acid cream a.m.
Week 4: Retinol cream p.m.
Week 5: Firming treatment p.m.
Week 6: Night cream p.m.
Week 7: Brightening serum p.m.

From the basic program, you will already be cleansing and nourishing in the morning and at night, using sunblock in the morning and polishing at night. Start slowly when you introduce a new product. Layer the products, applying them one at a time. There is no need to wait between applications. Lancer Skincare products have interlocking chemistry. One product enhances the effectiveness of the others. If you are pressed for time, you can mix the various treatment creams in the palm of your hand and do a single application. Of course, eye cream will have to be applied separately. Do not mix in other brands, which may have conflicting chemistry and ingredients that could interfere with the method.

Use a product only one day the first week you try it, then add a day each consecutive week. According to this schedule, you will be using all the products every day by the twelfth week, at three months. Keep in mind, everyone has a unique metabolism. It might take you more or less time to introduce all the products. Incorporating new products into your routine in this way will help you to identify the source of any sensitivity or problem. If your skin reacts to a product you have just introduced, you should build up more slowly, maybe using that product just once a week for a month.

If this regimen seems daunting to you, I assure you that once you get the hang of it, the routine will become automatic. When you are in a big hurry, you can take a shortcut, as I noted above. Instead of applying each product one by one, take a dab of the products you are using and combine them in your hand, mix them with a fingertip, and apply all of them together. Layering the products is more effective, but it is better to apply them than to skip treating your skin.

You do not have to follow this routine to the letter. You might want to take your time adding new products. After reading the descriptions of the anti-aging products in this chapter, you might not feel you need a particular anti-aging product. The cleanse-polish-nourish-sunscreen steps are a must. After that, it is up to you. At some point, you might feel as if you have taken your skin as far as it can go with the products you are using and decide to try something new to see if there are even more improvements. Once you have dealt with some signs of aging, others might become more noticeable.

If you want to focus on specific skin issues, here are some suggestions for the products to use:

Enhanced tone balance regimen: Glycolic acid cream and skin brightener
Enhanced lift and radiance regimen: Vitamin C cream and brightening serum
Enhanced texture corrector regimen: Glycolic acid cream and sunscreen
Enhanced eye-area care regimen: Eye cream and firming serum
Enhanced lifting and smoothing regimen: Firming serum and night cream

Application

As with the basic Lancer Anti-Aging Method, I recommend doing the polish and cleanse steps in the shower, because thirty seconds of steam will moisten your skin well so that you can get a deep cleanse. At this point, you should be expert with the polish-cleanse-nourish basic program. The first new treatment you will be adding is an eye-brightening cream. Since the early signs of aging show around the eyes where the skin is thin and delicate, fine wrinkles and dark circles are of great concern to patients of all ages. It is never too soon to begin treatment for this vulnerable area. Using well-formulated products can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, reduce puffiness, and fade dark pigmentation under the eyes.

Luxury:

Lancer Skincare Eye Contour Lifting Cream
Chanel Sublimage La Crème Yeux
AmorePacific Moisture Bound Intensive Vitalizing Eye Complex
La Mer The Eye Concentrate
Aesop Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Eye Cream (sensitive)
Jurlique Herbal Recovery Eye Cream (sensitive)

Moderate:

Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex
Kiehl’s Line-Reducing Eye-Brightening Concentrate
Clinique All About Eyes
Clarins Super Restorative Total Eye Concentrate (sensitive)
Valmont Expression Line Reducer Eye Factor

Affordable:

RoC Retinol Correxion Eye Cream
L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power Eye Treatment
Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Eye Cream
Aveeno Positively Ageless Lifting & Firming Eye Cream
La Roche-Posay Substiane (+) Eyes

Eye cream is best applied with your pinkie. With your eye closed, start with your lower lid. From the bridge of your nose outward, dab the eye cream along the line of the lower bone of your eye socket to where it meets the upper bone in the outer corner of your eye. Apply little dabs on your upper lid from the bridge of your nose and follow the bone of your upper eye socket under your eyebrow outward to the corner. The cream will be absorbed by the skin and affect the entire area.

This chapter has given you an intensive program to make your skin look healthy and younger. The Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method will delay aging if you are trying to preserve your skin as it is now and to prevent premature damage. The Lancer Method will increase your skin’s oxygen level and stimulate cell turnover for fresher, glowing skin. Investing the time and effort now to maintain your skin’s radiance and smoothness will keep you from wanting extreme procedures later. If you are coming late to the party, you can correct damage before it is beyond fixing if you make the Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method a way of life. The next three chapters deal with conditions that require special attention: acne, rosacea, and sensitive skin. Nearly 85 percent of all Americans have had acne in their lives. At any given time, the number of people in the United States with acne is about sixty million. Rosacea affects fourteen million. The results of one survey found that 45 percent of the participants claimed to have sensitive skin. Judging from my practice, the number is actually higher.

A yoga teacher in her early sixties had an appointment with our permanent makeup artist to have work done on her eyebrows. She did not wear makeup, and her eyebrows were indistinct. She thought her faded eyebrows made her look too vague. She was at the office for a touch-up.

This woman, a vegan, was five foot seven and weighed 105 pounds. She looked sallow and, to my eye, could have used some animal protein. The permanent makeup artist advised her that she should do more to take care of her skin. I was called in. As usual, I handed her a mirror and a Q-tip and asked her if anything bothered her about her skin. All she saw was some brown spots.

In addition to being sallow, her face was covered with fine lines, she had the beginnings of jowls, and her skin was papery. She clearly was a case of low-density collagen, because of her genetics, diet, and sun exposure. Though extrinsic and intrinsic aging were visible on her face, she was reluctant to do anything about it. She had seen her friends do drastic things and was horrified by the results. She was stuck in her thinking, a purist, and not inclined to try cosmetic improvement of any sort. But at-home skin care did not sound too threatening. She began to do the basic Lancer Method.

She called to let us know that she felt good and had experienced no irritation or sensitivity. She gained confidence as her skin became more vibrant. Not wanting to alarm her, we took infinite care when introducing new products to her skin care routine. Her negativity and reluctance evaporated. She is doing the full Lancer Advanced Anti-Aging Method now, and her skin has responded beautifully.

The Takeaway: It is never too late to improve your skin, especially if you have never taken special care of it. Patient confidence and trust are great helps.

These conditions have a devastating effect on self-esteem and afflict people of all ages and every skin color. I have customized the Lancer Method to treat these conditions with excellent results. If you have not had any of these problems to date, that does not mean you will not develop any of them in the future. They can affect you at any point in life. If you have acne-or rosacea-prone skin or reactive, sensitive skin, read on. One of the next three chapters is for you.

You Need a Plan to Fight Aging

ADDING MORE TREATMENT TO YOUR DAILY REGIMEN

Sensitive Skin Warning

A QUICK GUIDE TO ANTI-AGING INGREDIENTS

Keratolytic Agents: AHAs, Glycolic Acid, BHA, Salicylic Acid

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Glycolic Acid

Recommended Glycolic Acid Creams

Luxury:

Moderate:

Affordable:

Beta Hydroxy Acid and Salicylic Acid

Once Was Quite Enough

Anti-Oxidants

Recommended Vitamin C Creams

Luxury:

Moderate:

Affordable:

Vitamin E (Tocophenols, Tocotrienols, Tocophenyl Acetate)

Alpha Lipoic Acid

Coenzyme Q10

Selenium

Retinoids (Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate)

Recommended Retinol Creams

Luxury:

Moderate:

Affordable:

Skin Brighteners

Red Algae Extract (Palmaria palmata; Oligosaccharide)

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

Hydroquinone

Resveratrol

Recommended Skin Brighteners

Luxury:

Moderate:

Affordable:

Azelaic Acid

Kojic Acid

Peptides

The Mystique of Stem Cells

Recommended Firming Treatments

Luxury:

Moderate:

Affordable:

Stabilizing Agents

Niacinamide (B3)

Hyaluronic Acid

Linoleic Acids and Phospholipids

Recommended Night Creams

Luxury:

Moderate:

Affordable:

Caffeine

Isoflavones

Green Tea

Marula Oil

A.M.

P.M.

HOW TO EASE INTO THE LANCER ADVANCED ANTI-AGING METHOD

Application

Recommended Eye Creams

Luxury:

Moderate:

Affordable:

Adult Training Wheels

Niacinamide (B₃)