With the exception of early experiences—creating “potions” in the culvert of my elementary school—I’ve felt somewhat intimidated by medicinal herbs, even though I’ve long been a fan of complementary medicine and alternative therapies. I could expound on the advantages of acupuncture and reiki, but when it came to using echinacea, I was clueless.
Going to herbal healers was beneficial, but I never dreamed that I could replicate those complicated mixtures. When I quit smoking and developed chronic respiratory issues during the detox period, a brilliant herbalist created a concoction with coltsfoot, mullein, hyssop, licorice, and something called mouse ear that I really hoped wasn’t what it sounded like. Although it worked well, I still didn’t consider making my own remedies; it felt similar to trying to create my own prescriptions. Who can whip up penicillin in her kitchen?
Then I became a farmer, and started growing all kinds of vegetables I’d never eaten before. A small culinary herb patch expanded, including herbs that attract pollinators, such as calendula and chamomile. Not wanting to waste these, I prepared them for medicinal use, feeling at first that I was, indeed, trying to whip up homemade antibiotics.
Happily, it was easy. I use valerian to sleep better, arnica for insect bites, and yes, echinacea to knock out cold symptoms. Although I haven’t quite gone from clueless to confident, I am adventurous, and that’s a very nice place to be. The following are some of my favorite herbs, selected for stress-free growth and effective medicinal treatments. Rock on, fellow herbalists.
Arnica Arnica montanaFrom June to October, I use arnica almost every day, because it seems like I have some nightly complaint—sore shoulders from weeding all day, mosquito bites that stay itchy for hours, dry lips and hands—that could use some arnica love. The herb has been used for just such medicinal purposes since the 1500s, and there are plenty of preparations found in any natural remedies section of a co-op or grocery. Homeopathic practitioners use arnica for specific anti-inflammatory purposes, but in general, the herb is used topically since some serious side effects have been noted when used internally. The herb’s name is likely taken from the Greek word arna (meaning “lamb”) in reference to the plant’s slightly hairy, soft leaves, even though all herbal preparations use only the flowers and not those lamb-like leaves.
Although herbs taken internally in the form of teas or essential oils shouldn’t be used on a constant basis, those used externally like arnica don’t carry that caution. So, if you have nagging muscle pain or chronic issues like arthritis, try using arnica as a way to soothe those problems.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
Create a tincture by pouring vodka (or other alcohol at least 70 proof) over freshly picked flowers. Seal tightly and let stand for at least a week in a sunny spot or warm area. Filter, put in a well-sealed container, and store out of direct sunlight.
Combine the tincture with distilled witch hazel, which will increase the medicinal properties of your mix.
Blend the tincture with a non-scented lotion or coconut oil for a topical lotion that will be moisturizing as well as soothing. If you can find some at your co-op, try using emu oil, since it has transdermal properties, which means it allows the herbal remedy to absorb more fully into the skin.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Six to eight hours per day
Shade: Prefers full sun, but tolerates partial shade
Soil: Well-drained, loosened soil
Fertilizer: Once per season, sprinkle around roots
Pests: Tend to be minimal
Water: Regularly, depending on soil dryness
Grow Indoors? Yes
In addition to being a well-loved medicinal plant for bruises, aches, and pains, arnica is a happy little plant, bursting with bright yellow flowers thanks to its relation to the sunflower family. The plant grows to about 1 or 2 feet, with bright green leaves and a slightly hairy stem. They’re seriously adorable, and look a bit like wildflowers, so they’re a nice choice for giving landscaping a softer, abundant look. Although they can be grown indoors, the flowers do well outdoors and are hardy in a range of climates—there are even some who grow them at over 8,000 feet in the Rocky Mountains. Because of its popularity, there are several areas of the world where harvesting wild arnica is illegal, including Italy, France, and the Ukraine, so cultivating it instead of foraging is the responsible choice.
MEDICINE CABINET
Best known for easing pain and swelling from bruises, arnica is also used for aches, sprains, and even arthritis. Although it can be ingested, the herb is particularly ideal for any skin issues, from chapped lips to insect bites.
Helps bruises fade faster
In a small study on patients who had bruises created on their arms, researchers looked at four topical agents—vitamin K, retinol, arnica, and white petroleum—to study the speed of improvement. The rate of “bruise resolution” was significantly greater with arnica than with the petroleum, and also better than with the vitamin K and retinol.1
As effective as ibuprofen for osteoarthritis of the hands
In studying patients with osteoarthritis of the interphalangeal joints, researchers found that arnica gel was as effective as ibuprofen gel for treatment of pain, morning stiffness, and hand function. The study concluded that arnica could be used as an alternative to the commonly prescribed ibuprofen remedy.2
1. Leu, S., “Accelerated resolution of laser-induced bruising with topical 20% arnica: a rater-blinded randomized control trial,” British Journal of Dermatology. 2010; 163: 557-563. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20412090
2. Ross SM. “Osteoarthritis: a proprietary Arnica gel is found to be as effective as ibuprofen gel in osteoarthritis of the hands,” Holistic Nursing Practice. 2008; 22: 237-239. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18607237
VARIETIES Although arnica does have several varieties within the family, and boasts a few other names like mountain tobacco and leopard’s bane, it’s likely that when ordering seeds, you’ll find only “mountain arnica” as a choice. Don’t feel slighted by the lack of selection—this variety tends to be the hardiest and more predictable when it comes to growing. However, it’s possible you may encounter other varieties like meadow arnica, and if you do, snap them up.
PLANT Arnica seeds first need to chill in order to germinate. This sounds counterintuitive to gardeners in warmer climates—doesn’t refrigeration slow growth?—but the herb does best in higher elevations and temperate conditions, which tend to be cold right before natural germination periods. To mimic this, plant the seeds in small pots filled with peat moss and refrigerate or place in a cold frame for two to three months before transplanting out to their garden spot; aim for about 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Sure, it’s a super picky way to garden, and it can be annoying if you decide in May that you want arnica in your herb mix and realize that you missed your refrigeration window. But I’ve tried to skip this step before and ended up with greenhouse trays of soil that look like I forgot to plant in them.
If the refrigeration option is too fussy, then sow seeds outdoors in the late summer so they can come up the following year. But mark where you planted them, because sometimes they can take up to two years to grow with that particular method.
Once you do get the plants going and transplant outside, the good news is that arnica tolerates a range of soil conditions and climate types. In general, though, the herb prefers well-draining soil so be sure to cultivate well before planting. They also thrive in alkaline soil, with a pH range between 6.0 and 8.0, which can be adjusted by sprinkling agricultural limestone prior to planting.
GROW Choose a garden spot that gets some shade if you’re in a warmer climate—the herb does well with full sun and blooms best that way, but it doesn’t do well in dry, drought-type settings, so partial shade will provide some relief. The soil should be evenly watered to keep a nice degree of moisture, but not overly wet, which could lead to root issues.
If you’ve struggled with establishing arnica in a garden in the past, consider planting in a pot so you can control the herb’s conditions better. That way, if it seems to be struggling in full sunlight, shift to partial shade. Alternately, if its shady location means that few blooms are popping, give it some much-needed sunshine.
When you have a nice patch going, it’s easy to expand your arnica empire by dividing them up; just dig up part of the plant with roots, plant in a separate location and water well. If the plants have withered for the season, that’s fine—you just need the rhizome anyway, which is the part of the rootstock that includes the little shoots from its sides.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF ARNICA
The nutritional value of arnica has not been established.
HARVEST & STORE When I was a kid, we played a maudlin game with dandelions, in which we flicked off the blooms and called it “popping off the heads.” When harvesting herbs like arnica, I think about this little second-grade practice almost every time—shout out to Sunnyside Elementary School!—since only the flowers are harvested. The roots can be used in some preparations, but for the most part, you’re popping those heads.
In the summer, I prefer to use fresh arnica for remedies and medicinal preparations, since it’s easy to make a tincture in just a week. Also, I tend to combine with calendula flowers to create a powerful herbal combo that can steep in alcohol on my windowsill. Once it’s steeped as a tincture, either seal well and store in a cool place, or strain out the plant material and combine with lotion, oil, beeswax, or some other herbal preparation material.
Although a tincture will last practically forever, it’s useful to dry some of the blooms for making preparations later. For that, use a clean metal or plastic screen, such as a fine-mesh cooling rack for baking, and evenly space the flowers for drying, away from insects and strong breezes. Once dried, pack into a jar and seal tightly, out of direct sunlight.
Calendula Calendula officinalisAlso known as pot marigold or garden marigold, calendula originates from southern Europe and has been one of the most used herbs throughout history—and not just for its medicinal properties. Considered sacred flowers in India, the calendula blossoms have often been used to decorate Hindu statues, and the flowers were also included in many Greek and Roman ceremonies. In the Middle Ages, it was rumored that if a girl walked barefoot on calendula petals, she would suddenly be able to understand the songs of birds. (Note: I’ve tried it. Doesn’t work.) The cheerful, bright yellow and orange flowers have also been employed to color cheese and dye fabrics, similar to saffron (but without the hefty expense). Since the flowers are edible, they can also add some pop to salads or other dishes.
Although calendula can be used to treat stomach problems and ulcers, and has been employed to relieve menstrual cramps, most often the plant is used for topical applications, since it’s so stellar at helping with skin and wound issues. According to the University of Maryland Medical Center, calendula has been shown to help wounds heal faster, possibly by increasing blood flow and oxygen to the affected area, so new tissue grows faster.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
Place slightly wilted flowers (the quantity is not critical) in a jar with olive oil and put in a warm, sunny location, being sure to shake once a day to speed the infusion process; after a month, strain the oil and use for chapped skin, bruises, sore muscles, or diaper rash.
Combine the infused olive oil with melted beeswax over a double boiler; once the wax is melted, you can stir in essential oils for scent if you like, but either way, pour into small tins or heat-resistant glass. Use the resulting salve for minor scrapes, insect bites, stretch marks, rashes, or chapped lips.
Create a compress by pouring a cup of boiling water over a bowl of calendula flowers, covering, and letting the mix cool; strain out the flowers and soak a clean cloth in the water, then apply the compress to minor burns, insect bites, cuts, or bee stings until relief is felt.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Six to eight hours per day
Shade: Does well with full sun, but can tolerate partial shade
Soil: Well-drained, loosened soil
Fertilizer: Usually not necessary, the plant can do well with minimal intervention and inputs
Pests: Tend to be minimal
Water: Regularly, depending on soil dryness
Grow Indoors? Yes
MEDICINE CABINET
Calendula is a powerhouse when it comes to skin treatments, and its effects are immediate rather than cumulative. Widely considered to be safe with some minor allergic reactions noted, the herb shows promise for a range of skin and wound issues, even in a clinical setting.
Prevents dermatitis during cancer treatment
A study published in the Journal of Clinical Oncology, and performed by radiation oncologists in France, found that patients receiving calendula had a significantly lower occurrence of acute dermatitis during radiation treatment, and many also reported reduced radiation-induced pain.1
Numerous healing properties
Researchers in India noted that calendula had been widely used in that country as a homeopathic medicine, so they broke the plant into its active chemical constituents to determine why it’s so effective. They found a wide range of benefits, including anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties, and promising results for future research, calling the herb “future medicine for human kind.”2
1. Pommier P, Gomez F, Sunyach MP, et al. “Phase III randomized trial of Calendula officinalis compared with trolamine for the prevention of acute dermatitis during irradiation for breast cancer,” Journal of Clinical Oncology 2004;22:1447–53. http://jco.ascopubs.org/content/22/8/1447.full.pdf
2. Ukiya, M., et al. “Anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor-promoting, and cytotoxic activities of constituents of pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) flowers,” International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences 2006; 69:1692-96. http://www.ijrpbsonline.com/files/61-3294.pdf
Although some medicinal herbs and flowers can be fussy to grow (I’m looking at you, blue vervain), calendula is fairly easy, and can be either directly seeded right into a garden, or started indoors as transplants. Once they’re established in a garden they’ll self-seed so you don’t have to keep replacing them every year, but they also won’t become a nuisance by seeding heavily throughout their space. In other words, they’re one of the “plays well with others” type of plants.
VARIETIES As a genus, calendula has about fifteen to twenty different species, and one particularly prevalent species is Calendula arvensis, also known as field marigold. Also seen across the world but originating in Europe, the arvensis grows wild in many areas. Other types, such as the sea marigold (Calendula maritima), are considered very rare and are actually endangered.
Although every species boasts lovely flowers, the type used most often for medicinal preparations, and the kind you’ll want to grow in your garden, is Calendula officinalis, which has been more widely studied for its medicinal compounds. Within this type are several varieties, so you can choose blooms based on a wide color selection:
Alpha: Happy, bright orange blooms will brighten up the garden, but the main benefit of this variety is the high resin content, which makes it more effective as a medicinal plant.
Indian Prince: A two-tone variety that stands a little taller than many other options. The deep orange petals have a touch of crimson, and they’re quite easy to start from seed.
Resina Calendula: Although this variety has smaller flowers compared to some other types, it boasts the highest concentration of resins, giving it the most medicinal potency of any known calendula variety.
PLANT Because I live in the Midwest, where winters are approximately eighteen months long, I tend to prefer starting plants indoors in early spring, and nurturing them along until it’s time to transplant them into the garden. Calendula does very well with this method, so if you have any kind of space where you can establish seed starts, you may want to consider giving the calendula this kind of head start. Otherwise, the plants will grow well if directly seeded into an outdoor garden space, and their ability to tolerate a mix of sun and shade make them a nice option for those tricky in-between landscaping spaces.
If growing inside, consider starting the seeds in a small container (about 2 inches deep or so) first, which will keep the roots warmer and cozier, aiding in germination. As the plant grows larger, transfer to a larger container (at least 6 inches deep) so the roots can establish more firmly. By the time it’s about to outgrow that container, you can transplant outside.
Whether you’re direct seeding or transplanting, loosen the soil first to minimize compaction issues, and plant either in early spring or early fall, since the plants don’t do as well in hot temperatures. If you’re living in a particularly steamy area, consider a variety like Pacific Beauty Mixed Colors, which offers more heat tolerance.
GROW Because of its minimal maintenance needs and adaptability to different soil types, it’s easy to see why calendula became so established across the world as a medicinal and decorative option. The roots can adjust to whatever space they’re given, so you can grow calendula in a container, raised bed, or open garden space. The plants don’t require fertilizer or abundant care, and they do well with a kind of benign neglect, as long as they’re not in very hot conditions or left without water for long periods.
The only maintenance required is to deadhead the plant regularly, which means plucking the dead or faded flowers off the plant, a technique that helps it to thrive and stay blooming for longer. In the fall, keep some blooms going if you want the plant to self-seed for the next year.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF CALENDULA
The nutritional value of calendula has not been established.
HARVEST & STORE Much like many other types of flowers to be used for medicinal or edible use, calendula is best harvested in the late morning, after the dew has dried but before any warmth causes flowers to wilt or close. Don’t be afraid to harvest frequently; cutting the blooms will encourage more budding, so you can get several rounds of flowers off one plant.
The flowers can be used fresh or dried, and if you prefer the latter, then place the flower heads on a screen in a shady spot that’s warm but not hot. I’ve found that this method works best for flowers since it offers some airflow and prevents moisture issues. When they’re dry and papery, store in canning jars or vacuum-sealed containers.
Drying is useful if you’d like to create ointments or oils in later months, but I tend to prefer using fresh flowers since medicinal preparation is so simple and quick (see Rx Medicine Cabinet for ideas).
Also, fresh flowers are edible, so anything I don’t use for ointments can be added to dishes—keep in mind, though, that the petals are bitter, which makes it a good option for the digestion system, but also means that a little goes a long way.
Catnip Nepeta catariaAlthough most people think of catnip as a kind of kitty marijuana, the herb has been valued as a medicinal for humans since it was cultivated in Roman times—when the town where it was most cultivated, Nepeti, became part of its botanical name. The dried leaves were once smoked to relieve stress (much like non-kitty marijuana these days), and fresh leaves were utilized to reduce fevers, calm headaches, and soothe upset stomachs. In the United States, the herb isn’t used very often except in cat toys for now, but in Europe, catnip is still used to tenderize and season meat. The herb’s flowers, roots, stems, and leaves can all be used, making it a good all-around herb, and its mildly sedative effect is just as pleasant in people as it is for your mouser.
Although there’s no clinical evidence to support use of catnip tea as a sedative, anecdotal reports abound about its use as a home remedy for reducing anxiety. Also, the tea has a very pleasant taste if prepared correctly.
Putting catnip in a pot can keep it from spreading too much in a garden.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
When making tea, use 1 teaspoon dried or 2 teaspoons fresh catnip (leaves or flowering tops). Boil water, but let it cool down slightly before pouring over the catnip, and steep for only about two to three minutes. Using boiling water and steeping for too long tend to make the tea bitter, but cooler water and a shorter steep produce a minty, complex taste.
Make a poultice by mashing fresh leaves into a paste; apply to reduce fluid retention in the legs or to alleviate swelling or bruising until you feel relief.
To help ease digestive troubles, fresh catnip can be used in culinary applications, such as chopped fresh into salads, or mixed with olive oil to create a tenderizing marinade for beef.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Eight to ten hours per day
Shade: Prefers full sun
Soil: Well-drained, loosened soil
Fertilizer: Usually not necessary, the plant can do well with minimal intervention and inputs
Pests: Whitefly and spider mites; keep plants pruned to increase airflow
Water: When plants seem dry; don’t overwater
Grow Indoors? Yes
An easy-to-grow perennial, catnip is part of the mint family, and is sometimes called catmint, although there are some differences between the two species. Like other members of that family, catnip can get invasive if left unchecked, and spreads quickly. Most varieties reach about 3 or 4 feet, and feature large serrated leaves that often resemble nettles, but without that plant’s prickly stems.
Even if you choose to use other herbs for anti-anxiety effects, there’s always the option to grow catnip for the feline members of your family. The herb can be especially useful if you’re fond of growing plants indoors, since it can be strategically placed to distract cats from culinary herb pots and houseplants. Also, there’s some evidence that catnip can repel fleas, so let your kitty loll around in the leaves all she wants. The more cats crush the plant (and they will, believe me), the more oil gets released, leading straight to kitty nirvana.
MEDICINE CABINET
Catnip hasn’t been studied as extensively as other herbs, but hopefully that will change, given its potential for regulating digestion and soothing anxiety. But it has shown some promise in certain areas:
Repels mosquitoes better than DEET
The essential oil in catnip, nepetalactone, gives the plant a distinctive aroma, and it appears that mosquitoes hate the scent. In a presentation at the American Chemical Society, researchers noted that catnip is ten times more effective at repelling mosquitoes than DEET, the compound used in most commercial insect repellents.1
Rich medicinal history
Despite catnip’s minor role in herbal remedies now, the herb actually boasted a wide range of uses in the past, according to a researcher who did a scientific literature review. He cited uses for hives, whooping cough, rheumatism, yellow fever, smallpox, and jaundice, as well as many other ailments.2
1. American Chemical Society. “Catnip Repels Mosquitoes More Effectively Than Deet.” ScienceDaily. 28 August 2001. http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2001/08/010828075659.htm
2. Grognet, J. “Catnip: Its uses and effects, past and present,” The Canadian Veterinary Journal June 1990; 31(6):455-456. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1480656/?page=2
VARIETIES Catnip actually has a wide range of varieties, but when it comes to growing them, the options are fairly limited. Still, it’s possible to do some research with seed companies and find lesser-known varieties. Here are some to consider:
Common Catnip: When ordering seeds, if a variety isn’t specified, it’s most likely common catnip. Plants grow about 3 feet high, and leaves are a grayish green, with white flowers.
Camphor Catnip: If you want to grow catnip for yourself instead of your cats, this variety is a good choice, since cats tend to avoid it. Also, its smaller size makes it more controllable in a garden.
Lemon Catnip: Similar to common catnip in height and color, but the flowers have purple spots and the plant smells of lemon.
Greek Catnip: A shorter variety at about 18 inches tall, this catnip has pale green leaves and pink flowers, also making a very pretty ornamental.
PLANT Catnip can be directly seeded into a garden space, but I’ve found that it’s best either to purchase plants from a nursery or to start the plants indoors before transferring them to an outside space or a larger container. If you know someone who’s already growing catnip, you can ask for a section of what they have and replant it in your own space. Just be sure to get roots as well as leaves and plant in well-loosened soil.
Whatever method you choose for your starts, pick a spot in full sun and water frequently so the catnip can fully establish. If you’re trying to keep cats away from the space, consider using some fencing, bird netting, or other strategies that allow the plant to grow undisturbed.
If starting from seed, sow in early spring or in the fall so it can overwinter and then germinate the next spring. This method tends to produce a denser crop of catnip, which can be nice if you’re looking for abundance.
One of the best aspects about catnip is that it can thrive in poor soil, unlike some other herbs that require more nourishment. That makes catnip an ideal choice for areas where other plants might struggle, especially along walkway borders or in more alkaline soil.
GROW Like other types of mint, catnip can get invasive if you let it, so it’s best to keep it trimmed back. You can also ensure a fuller plant and less invasion by pinching off the flower buds when they first appear, but I tend to like a taller plant with plenty of pretty white flowers, so catnip is one of the wild things in my garden space.
Another way to keep control is to thin the plants when they’re in an early stage, usually about 5 inches tall. Plants should be around 12 inches apart, so take out any that seem to be crowding closer than that.
If growing indoors, make sure the plants are getting enough light; if they don’t, the herbs tend to get spindly. Also, be careful not to overwater or let the herb sit in water, since that can prompt root rot.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF CATNIP
The nutritional value of catnip has not been established.
HARVEST & STORE Like many herbs, catnip is best harvested in late morning, after the dew has dried. This technique is especially helpful if you’ll be using the catnip fresh, a nice idea if you’re going to throw the leaves into a lunchtime salad. The leaves have a light, minty flavor, as long as you use younger, more tender leaves. Avoid the larger leaves as an edible, since they can sometimes taste grassy or woody.
Before adding a healthy amount to any dish or tea, try a leaf or two first to see if you have any adverse reactions. Most likely, this won’t occur, but occasionally I find that I have minor sensitivities to fresh medicinal herbs. For example, I wouldn’t load up a salad with fresh senna leaves, unless my digestive system needed a massive cleanse, shall we say.
As any cat owner knows, catnip dries beautifully, which is why it’s so easy to tuck into little mouse-shaped toys. You can tie a bundle together and hang up to dry, or pick individual leaves and place on a mesh screen so they dry flat. I tend to prefer the latter method even though it’s more time consuming, because I’m not a fan of crushing up bundled herbs that require an additional step of picking the stems and other non-leaf material out of the mix. (But if you’re making cat treats instead of tea or tinctures, bundle drying and a rough crush is probably the way to go.)
Chamomile Matricaria chamomillaFor a plant that’s frequently found growing wild in poor soil, chamomile has an impressive pedigree. The ancient Egyptians dedicated the plant to their gods, since they considered the herb sacred, and numerous cultures have utilized the plant for its medicinal properties. The Greeks called the plant “Earth Apple” because they thought the scent smelled so fruitlike, and the herb is so hardy that it was once used as groundcover, similar to lawns. According to the National Institutes of Health (NIH), over one million cups of chamomile tea are consumed every day, and the NIH notes that the herb is one of the oldest, most widely used, and well-documented medicinal plants in the world. Try to remember that the next time you see it sprouting up next to your garbage can.
Although chamomile boasts a range of uses, it’s most often used as a calmative, which means that it lowers anxiety and helps ease sleep issues. The herb is such a gentle sedative that many herbalists recommend it for children, and its anti-inflammatory properties can be helpful for digestive problems, sore throats, and tired eyes.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
Create a decoction (see Chapter 2 for instructions) and pour into a warm bath; this is not only calming, but the herb’s combination with the steam helps ease respiratory ailments.
For gingivitis, pour a cup of boiling water over 3 teaspoons of the dried leaves and let infuse for five to ten minutes; after it cools, use as a mouthwash.
Dry the flowers in a single layer on a clean mesh surface or cooling rack, then crumble and use as a tea for insomnia or general chill-out drink.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Eight to ten hours per day
Shade: Prefers full sun but does well with partial shade
Soil: Well-drained, but tolerates a wide range of soil types
Fertilizer: Usually not necessary, the plant can do well with minimal intervention and input
Pests: Minimal
Water: Only during a long spell of hot weather, or when particularly dry
Grow Indoors? Yes
Cheery and resembling tiny daisies, chamomile often resembles a wildflower, with its feathery leaves and abundant blooms. Because it does well in a wide range of soil types, chamomile fills in well in garden spots that might not have the best soil for pickier plants. It’s also considered an ideal companion plant to others because it helps to repel insects, which means that if you’ve had aphid problems or cucumber beetles in the past, now’s the time to let chamomile work its garden magic.
MEDICINE CABINET
Sometimes it seems that the list of what chamomile doesn’t treat must be shorter than what it can address. It can’t do your taxes, for example. Beyond that, it can probably address whatever is ailing you, from insomnia to wounds to indigestion.
Promise for a range of issues
Researchers from Case Western Reserve University note that chamomile flowers contain terpenoids and flavonoids that contribute to its medicinal properties, and preparations are commonly used for hay fever, anxiety, coronary heart disease, colic, hemorrhoids, and other issues. They noted that more clinical trials should be undertaken to discover all of its therapeutic benefits.1
Potential anti-cancer properties
Although chamomile has been used to treat a range of ailments, researchers noticed that its anti-cancer activity hadn’t been evaluated. They exposed chamomile extracts to various human cancer cells, and found a significant decrease in cell viability with those cells, without negatively affecting normal cells. Researchers noted, “this study represents the first reported demonstration of the anti-cancer effects of chamomile.”2
1. Srivastava, J., et al. “Chamomile: An herbal medicine of the past with a bright future,” Mol Med Report, Nov 2010; 3(6):895-901. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2995283/#R53
2. Srivastava, J., Gupta, S. “Antiproliferative and apoptotic effects of chamomile extract in various human cancer cells,” Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, Nov 2007; 55(23):9470-8. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17939735
VARIETIES The type of chamomile found most often in medicinal preparation and from seed purveyors is German chamomile, a hardy annual that can grow up to 3 feet tall, and matures as a bushy shrub. The other common variety, Roman chamomile, is a perennial that only grows about a foot high. Although both have similar medicinal properties and can be used interchangeably, they have different growing needs. Most likely, when you see chamomile sprouting alongside roads and in sidewalk cracks, they’re Roman. But if you want to cultivate some for your medicinal garden, I’d recommend German, since it tends to have more flowers, and those are what you use most for herbal preparations.
PLANT Although chamomile can be seeded directly into a garden, the herb tends to do best with a little head start. Plant indoors, about six weeks before you plan on transplanting it outside, and use smaller pots or trays at first to maintain warmth for the roots. When seeding, sprinkle a couple seeds in each pot, and don’t cover with soil—the plant needs light to sprout, so blocking it will delay germination or even prevent it altogether. Once the seeds have started growing, thin them down to one plant per pot. Choose the hardiest; this is not a moment to root for the underdog.
Keep the seedlings in a sunny location until you plant them outside, or transfer the young plants into a larger container if you’re planning on growing them inside. Chamomile does well as an indoor plant, especially if you have a sunny area by a window so it can get some airflow as well as light.
If direct seeding into a garden, plant seeds in the early spring, after the last frost, or even better, plant in the fall so that the seeds can overwinter and germinate the following spring.
Although German chamomile is an annual, it’s likely that you won’t have to replant every year since the herb is stellar at seeding itself as long as you allow some of the blossoms to go to seed. The plant is so effective at coming back year after year that it’s a good idea to choose your chamomile spot wisely, since it’s likely to become a long-term resident. Sometimes, it can be invasive and take over more than its allotted space, so if you want more control over the amount growing, try transplanting into outdoor pots.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF CHAMOMILE
The nutritional value of chamomile has not been established.
GROW If growing indoors, you’ll need to pay more attention to the plant than you would if it’s outside in the garden, but not to a large degree. Just make sure the plant is in an appropriate-sized pot of at least 12 inches deep, containing some well-draining soil. If the herb seems slow growing or begins to yellow, transfer to a pot that has a better indoor soil mix, such as one that contains vermiculite or other drainage helper.
Outdoors, the plants won’t require much care, which is one of the reasons I love growing it—I’m a big fan of benign neglect whenever possible (sorry, neighbors!). Occasionally the herb might start to struggle, and adding some fish-based fertilizer around the base can help especially at planting time. Otherwise, just water when it seems especially dry.
HARVEST & STORE Like other types of flowers, chamomile is best harvested in the late morning, after the early dew has dissipated but before the afternoon heat sets in. Because the flowers are quite small, it can take some time to harvest enough to turn into a medicinal remedy, especially since they shrink even more during the drying process. There’s even a “chamomile rake” available online—resembling a deep dustpan with a comb on the bottom, the rake lets you harvest chamomile blossoms quickly. No matter what you’re using, harvest in midsummer, when the flowers are most open.
Once you have the blossoms, lay them out in a single layer on a drying rack, such as a wood box frame with a fine plastic mesh. For some herbs, I use a kitchen cooling rack, meant for baked goods and cookies, but chamomile flowers are too small for this method, and I’ve found that something resembling a window screen is much better. Also, I prefer to air dry rather than put in a dehydrator, because the drying process is more even—otherwise, I get chamomile crumbles in the bottom of the dehydrator. However, there are some machines that have an “herb” setting that could be used for the effort.
When fully dry, pack into a glass jar, seal tightly, and keep in a dry, cool spot. Be sure to check on them in another week or so to determine if any mold or mildew is growing; if you find any evidence of that, you’ll have to throw it out. Just be sure to dry the flowers for a longer time period next time.
Comfrey Symphytum officinaleNative to Europe and some parts of Asia, comfrey is a perennial that features slightly hairy leaves and robust foliage, but it doesn’t take over a garden space such as more impolite herbs like mint. At the end of its harvest season, comfrey sprouts pretty little flowers that begin with a blue hue but then fade to pink. The herb has long had a reputation for healing broken bones and acting as a general wound care go-to option, thanks to its high amount of allantoin, a substance that can boost healing by helping cell formation. Known to herbalists for over 2,000 years, comfrey was used in treating the wounds of Alexander the Great’s army, and was in heavy use in the Middle Ages when it was cultivated by monks in their medicinal gardens.
Because comfrey has potential liver effects if taken internally, the University of Maryland Medical Center advises that you do not use comfrey on a child’s skin, or use the herb for longer than ten days. Also, don’t apply to broken skin. That’s a great many caveats, but the herb is safe if used for topical applications of a few days, which is usually how long it takes bruises to heal with comfrey anyway.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
Make a poultice by mashing fresh leaves with a mortar and pestle or a blender into a paste; apply directly to rashes, minor sores, or other inflammation, with a clean cloth over the paste. Be sure to put a warm towel (dipped into hot water and wrung out, or a dry cloth heated in an oven briefly) on top of the cloth, since heat can increase the effect of the allantoin.
Crush fresh leaves and rub on blisters caused by poison ivy or poison oak (just be sure to avoid using on broken skin, which may have occurred from scratching).
CHECKLIST
Sun: Eight to ten hours per day
Shade: Prefers full sun but can tolerate shade
Soil: Well-drained, loosened soil
Fertilizer: Loves compost and other nitrogen-rich amendments
Pests: Tend to be minimal
Water: Regularly, depending on soil dryness
Grow Indoors? Yes
As a perennial, comfrey is a nice choice for a medicinal herb garden since it comes back strong every year, and can be planted in spring, summer, or fall. It prefers well-worked soil with a pH of 6 to 7, but has also been known to do well in sandy or clay soil. Basically, it’s adaptable to almost any situation, and can even thrive in partial shade. The herb grows in 120-degree African heat just as well as in the chilly Caucasus Mountains in Russia, and produces abundantly in both. You can even grow it indoors, as long as you commit to a large pot.
MEDICINE CABINET
Although comfrey was used in the past to address stomach issues, it was found that the herb has some substances, pyrrolizidine alkaloids, that can damage the liver, so several countries, including the US, have banned the sale of oral supplements. But the herb is still quite useful for topical applications, and stands out for its ability to help new skin cells grow, and to address sprains, bruises, and pulled muscles.
Helps with osteoarthritis
In a study examining the effects of comfrey on painful osteoarthritis of the knee, researchers found that those receiving topical comfrey showed significant improvement in pain management. They concluded that, “comfrey root extract ointment is well suited for the treatment of osteoarthritis of the knee. Pain is reduced, mobility of the knee improved and quality of life increased.”1
Reduces back pain
Researchers found that the use of a cream that contains 35 percent comfrey root extract provided pain relief and more function to those who were suffering with acute upper or lower back pain.2
1. Grube, B., et al. “Efficacy of comfrey root (Symphyti offic. radix) extract ointment in the treatment of patients with painful osteoarthritis of the knee: results of a double-blind, randomised, bicenter, placebo-controlled trial,” Phytomedicine 2007; 14(1): 2-10. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17169543
2. Pabst, H., et al. “Combination of Comfrey Root Extract Plus Methyl Nicotinate in Patients with Conditions of Acute Upper or Low Back Pain: A Multicentre Randomised Controlled Trial,” Phytother Res. 2012 Aug 8. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22887778
VARIETIES Comfrey comes in three main types: common, also known as Quaker or true, which grows 2 to 3 feet tall and can propagate through seeds; rough or prickly, native to Asia, considered invasive, and best propagated by roots; and hybrid or Russian, a cross between common and rough that grows up to 4 feet tall.
Bocking #4: Considered a Russian variety, this comfrey is very hearty and has deep roots, making it ideal for drier climates.
Bocking #14: Also Russian, this variety has the highest allantoin content, and is usually what’s recommended for home gardens since the roots are more shallow, which means you can take them out if you switch up your garden plan.
Common: The most cultivated variety, and hardier in cooler climates, down to Zone 3.
Red Comfrey: Usually grown as an ornamental but still boasting medicinal properties, this variety has deep red flowers and is more compact than Russian or common varieties. It also has a nice shade tolerance.
PLANT The best system for planting comfrey can seem a little quirky, but it’s much more fun than simply plunking a seed in the ground. So, let’s start by talking about crowns and roots.
Comfrey is propagated with “crown cuttings,” or root cuttings, which are basically sections of mature plants, and purveyors offer cuttings that are between one to twenty-five years old. Root cuttings look like dried cinnamon sticks, and are between 2 and 6 inches long. Dig a trench at least 2 inches deep, lay the cuttings flat, then cover with soil. Plant in the fall in order to get plants in the spring.
Crown cuttings are usually slightly more expensive, but can shorten the time between planting and germination. They’re about 3 inches in length and look like gnarled, fairytale witch fingers (in my imagination, anyway) that have shoots or sprouts on one end. They’re also planted flat, 3 to 6 inches deep, but with the sprouted end coming just above the soil surface or lightly covered with soil. Because the crown cuttings have sprouted buds already, they tend to be speedier in growing a full comfrey plant, and make a nice choice for planting in the spring.
Whichever you choose, comfrey cuttings do well with plenty of fertilization, so plan to work in azomite minerals, compost, rock phosphate, or other amendments into the soil before planting. Comfrey can tolerate higher levels of the nitrogen found in manure than any other plant in your garden, so if you’re looking to use up some compost, comfrey will be happy to take it. Also helpful is to place plants in a grid pattern, about 3 feet apart, which allows easier harvesting.
For indoor growing, comfrey tends to do best in large pots or 5-gallon buckets, and crown cuttings are usually a good choice for getting results more quickly.
If you prefer to grow comfrey from seed then go for it, but keep in mind that it’s not unusual to plant seeds and then not see any germination for at least two years.
GROW If you’d like to expand your comfrey empire, simply dig up some of the roots, and plant them in another part of the garden. Offer some to neighbors, put some on the breakroom table at work with some instructions, secretly plant some in an abandoned lot—let’s make the world a comfrey-friendly place.
Comfrey requires minimal care, and gets a bit larger every year. Some plants can live for decades before they begin to decline.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF COMFREY
Comfrey should be used as a topical only.
HARVEST & STORE Comfrey grows about 12 to 18 inches tall and can be harvested almost down to the ground. Leave about 2 inches of growth, but otherwise just cut off the rest. Even with that aggressive cutting style, the plants should re-grow quickly so you can harvest again in two to four weeks. Just be sure to keep harvesting before the blooms appear, since the herb is at its most effective before that process begins.
In terms of storage, comfrey leaves tend to have higher moisture content than other types of herbs, which means they dry more slowly and are susceptible to mold if stored too soon. Avoid that risk by giving your comfrey a nice long drying period—for me, that often means hanging them in a dry, airy place and forgetting about them for at least a month. When the leaves are easily crumbled, that means it’s ready for storage, so pack them into a well-sealed jar and store in a cool, dark place.
And seriously, don’t eat it. If you have an herb book from the ’70s, like several stars in my own collection, those authors recommend comfrey tea and make it sound heavenly—however, this was before significant research into the herb’s effects on the liver. Topical only, please!
Echinacea Echinacea purpureaA stunning plant, echinacea has been widely used for medicinal use by several tribes of North American Plains Indians. The herb’s name comes from the Greek word echino, meaning sea urchin—so named because the coneflower that appears when it’s mature resembles a spiny creature. (Fun note: there’s a superorder of sea urchin called echinacea, distinctive because they possess gills, unlike most sea urchins. Currently, there’s no evidence that using the herb echinacea will lead to gill formation, just in case you’re wondering.) Regarding medicinal use, echinacea got trendy for cold relief, but study results are mixed when it comes to proof that it actually works for that. However, it does address some of the symptoms of a cold, such as sore throats, headaches, and coughs, and provides a strong boost to immune systems.
Echinacea has been widely used to address cold symptoms and upper respiratory issues, but the herb has numerous other uses as well, such as treating gum disease, chronic fatigue, migraines, and even rattlesnake bites.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
For a general immunity boost, dry flowers and leaves, and then make into a tea; I tend to add other herbs for flavor, such as mint or holy basil.
For a nice addition to cough remedy teas, take a moment in the summer to pack fresh echinacea flower petals into the bottom of a jar and pour honey over the top; stir herbs into the honey and wait about a week for the infusion to “take.” Strain the herbs out, or include them with the honey when adding to hot water or tea. The mix will still be good all winter.
Harvest roots in late fall, after the flowers have died, and dry on a screen in a well-ventilated location. When they’re dry, make a decoction and drink as a warm beverage, sweetened with a bit of the flower honey, for shortening the duration of winter colds.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Six to eight hours per day
Shade: Full sun or partial shade
Soil: Loamy soil
Fertilizer: Usually not necessary
Pests: Tend to be minimal
Water: When soil seems dry
Grow Indoors? No
As a perennial, echinacea is a stunner in herb gardens because it’s so distinctive and attractive. Although some species may sport different colors, the herb form is usually purple, and resembles a daisy. Echinacea also makes a good addition to garden spaces because it’s easy to maintain, tolerates droughts fairly effectively, and can grow up to 4 feet tall, creating a nice border for landscaped spaces.
MEDICINE CABINET
Echinacea has become a nice cure-all kind of herb, helping the body fight infections, reducing pain and inflammation, and acting as an antioxidant. Herbalists might recommend echinacea for slow-healing wounds, sinus issues, antiviral remedies, and other treatments.
Enhanced immune function
Researchers looked at the effect of echinacea on T cells, which play a key role in the immune system. They found that supplementation with the herb led to enhanced immune function.1
Helps with cold symptoms
Whether echinacea knocks out a cold is still a matter of debate, but researchers found in one study that early intervention with a formulation of echinacea resulted in reduced symptom severity, especially with study subjects who had acquired an upper respiratory tract infection as a result of catching a cold.2
1. Kim, H.R., et. al. “Immune enhancing effects of Echinacea purpurea root extract by reducing regulatory T cell number and function,” Nat Prod Commun 2014 Apr; 9(4):511-4.
2. Frank, L.G. “The efficacy of Echinacea compound herbal tea preparation on the severity and duration of upper respiratory and flu symptoms: a randomized, double blind, placebo-controlled study,” J. Comp. Alt. Med. 2000; 6(4):327-334 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14748902
VARIETIES Echinacea is one of those plants that seem to inspire hybrid enthusiasts. The plant boasts nine distinct species, but more than fifty hybrids have been cultivated, creating different flower colors, more hearty varieties, and taller stems. There are some varieties, such as the yellow-flowered Echinacea paradoxa, that are considered rare, and a few others that are on the endangered list. For home planting, though, there are some good, dependable options that aren’t likely to go missing anytime soon:
Echinacea purpurea: Considered the easiest to echinacea to grow, this variety does well growing from seed and has fibrous roots that are easy to harvest, as opposed to taproots that can be difficult to dig up.
Echinacea pallida: A taprooted variety with white pollen on the conehead; this tends to do well in cooler climates.
Echinacea tennesseensis: Sometimes, just planting an herb is an act of conservation, as is the case with this Tennessee coneflower. The plant is on the federal endangered species list, but seeds are available from a few online purveyors.
PLANT Echinacea can be direct-seeded into the soil with a variety like the purpurea, but germination is iffy at best. If you happen to know someone growing the plant, the best method to add it to your garden is through cuttings. This method is the most inexpensive, and for some herbs, is a perfect way to obtain a healthy plant that has a head start on growth. Simply dig up part of an existing echinacea patch, making sure to get as much of the root as possible—sometimes tricky, since the herb has a long taproot—and then plant in your space, making sure to water well so the transition won’t be such a shock.
If you don’t have a source for cuttings, plant seed instead, and opt for starting inside and transplanting to the garden later. Echinacea seeds tend to germinate quickly, usually in under a month, and you can nurture them along in your protected indoor space before putting them outside to establish. First, though, you usually have to cold stratify, which means mimicking the winter conditions necessary for a plant to emerge from winter’s cooler temps.
To stratify, mix the seeds with a small amount of vermiculite or peat moss and sow into small containers. Then cover with plastic wrap to retain moisture, and place in a refrigerator kept under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds should germinate in about two weeks to a month, and then you can remove them and let them continue growing at room temperature.
Finally, you could also choose to buy starts from a greenhouse or nursery. Depending on where you live, this herb isn’t always easy to find and may not be at large, conventional garden stores, but with its recent popularity, it’s often available at specialty nurseries or smaller growers.
Wherever your source for transplants, choose a spot that gets full sun or is only partially in the shade, with soil that drains well and has a pH between 6 and 8. You can fertilize lightly with compost when transplanting, but in general, echinacea doesn’t require fertilization once it’s established.
GROW In terms of maintenance, echinacea is an easygoing addition to a garden, and doesn’t require much care beyond occasional watering. The only time it seems to struggle is with too much rain or overwatering, since both can lead to root rot.
As the plants establish, be sure to keep them well-weeded, since weeds will provide too much competition for the plants. They won’t get choked out by the weeds, but they could show slower growth, fewer blooms, and stunted stems.
If you live in a super chilly part of the world, as I do, you can tuck your echinacea in for the winter by covering the roots with a hay or straw mulch after the plants have died back and you’ve harvested any roots for your medicinal uses.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF ECHINACEA
The nutritional value of echinacea has not been established.
HARVEST & STORE Echinacea blooms are very pretty, especially when they’re part of a prairie-like natural landscape, and they attract butterflies and birds. They also dry well when put on a clean screen or mesh surface. Just cut the flowers at the base, so you have only the flower head. You can also pick the petals and use those, leaving the seed-filled section behind for the birds.
The leaves can also be harvested by plucking, in order to dry those for tea and other preparations. As with other herbs, harvest is best in the late morning, when the morning dew has burned away but the afternoon heat hasn’t set in yet.
If collecting roots, wait until October or November, when the plants have withered and there’s been at least a first frost. This will cause the plant to divert its energy into the roots for winter storage, increasing their potency. Dry the roots in a cool, well-ventilated area until they can snap like twigs. After that, you can use in a decoction for an echinicea root tea.
Store roots, as well as dried leaves and flowers, in an airtight glass jar in a dark area, such as a cupboard, and consider it your winter cold knockout secret.
Garlic Allium sativaWhen people ask how many fruits and vegetables we grow on the farm, I usually answer that we have about sixty, with several varieties within that. Occasionally, someone wonders which one is my favorite, and I don’t even have to think about the answer: garlic. To me, and so many throughout history, garlic has been as close to a cure-all as you can get. A member of the onion family, garlic is native to Siberia, but is now grown in most of the world. Its use in folk medicine stretches back about 7,000 years, making it one of the oldest known medicinal foods or herbs. Some herbalists believe that even carrying a clove of garlic has some level of medicinal worth.
Garlic is favorite home remedy for many people, and shows promise as a remedy to reduce heart disease by lowering LDL cholesterol. There’s also some evidence that it can lower blood pressure, prevent blood clots, and address viruses and bacteria as well as parasites and fungi.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
For colds and flu, cut up raw garlic and let sit for 15 minutes to release the allicilin, then swallow the small pieces with water, similar to taking pills. Repeat every few hours for an entire day; you’ll start to sweat garlic, but this can significantly reduce the duration of a cold.
For earaches, heat 1/4 cup of olive oil and put about four chopped cloves into the pan, being careful not to boil the oil. Allow the mixture to cool down to a warm, but not hot, temperature and strain out the garlic. Put a few drops into the affected ear and let it sit about 10 to 15 minutes before tipping your head the other way to drain it back out.
Treat warts by taking a slice of garlic and applying it directly to the wart, then rubbing olive oil around the edge of the garlic to decrease skin irritation. Cover with a bandage and leave in place for at least a few hours.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Six to eight hours per day
Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Soil: Well-drained, loosened soil
Fertilizer: Not necessary, but does need mulch to retain moisture
Pests: Tend to be minimal; can be subject to viruses
Water: Occasionally, depending on soil dryness
Grow Indoors? No
When I’m feeling weary (all that weeding, after all), I consider becoming a garlic grower, because compared to so many other vegetables, fruits, and herbs, it’s extremely easy to grow, and does well in a range of conditions.
MEDICINE CABINET
Garlic’s potency is derived from active compounds that include allyl sulfur, which is converted to allicilin when a clove is chopped and allowed to stand for fifteen minutes. Allicilin is anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, and anti-inflammatory. But it’s pro-delicious.
Significant anti-bacterial activity
Scientific research supports many of garlic’s traditional uses. Researchers reported that garlic exhibited anti-bacterial activity against gram positive (Bacillu subtilis, Staphylococcus aureu) and gram negative (Escherichia coli and Klebsiella pneumonia) strains and anti-fungal activity against Candida albicans.1
Reduces inflammation
Researchers noted that aged garlic extract plus CoQ10 greatly reduced inflammatory markers and reduced progression of coronary atherosclerosis.2
1. B Meriga et al., “Insecticidal, Antimicrobial and Antioxidant Activities of Bulb Extracts of Allium Sativum,” Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Medicine May 2012: 391-395. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22546657.
2. Zeb, I., et al. “Aged Garlic Extract and Coenzyme Q10 Have Favorable Effect on Inflammatory Markers and Coronary Atherosclerosis Progression: A Randomized Clinical Trial,” Journal of Cardiovascular Disease Research 2012 July; 185-190. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22923934
VARIETIES Garlic has two main categories: softneck, which does best in warmer climates where winter is mild, and hardneck, a good choice for climates where winter sees plummeting temperatures. Within those, there is an array of options when it comes to varieties:
Inchelium Red: A softneck that hails from Washington state. It has a pleasant, mild taste, and a good growing history.
Nootka Rose: Also a softneck, this variety tends to have strong leaves and stems, which makes it nice if you want to braid the garlic stems.
Chesnok Red: This variety is part of a hardneck category called “purple stripe,” named for its streaks of purplish color just under the thin white wrappers. Very pretty, with bold flavor.
French Rocambole: Another category of hardnecks is Rocambole, known for rounded bulbs and strong garlic flavor. They also feature looser wrappers, which makes them easier to peel.
Georgian Crystal: Part of the Porcelain category of hardnecks, this produces large cloves with reddish brown skin.
Chop garlic at least fifteen minutes before using to release its medicinal properties.
PLANT It’s possible to plant garlic from seed, but not many growers attempt it. Instead, purchase seed garlic, which are bulbs grown specifically for propagation. Although you could take a garlic bulb from the grocery store and plant its cloves, that’s inadvisable because the variety may not be suitable for your particular climate, and sometimes those bulbs have been sprayed to prevent sprouting—the very thing you need the cloves to do.
Because garlic needs at least two months of 40-degree temperatures to produce bulbs, it’s best to plant in the fall and then overwinter the garlic so it germinates fully in the spring. If you miss your fall window, give it a shot in the spring. Most likely, they’ll still germinate and mature, but your bulbs could be smaller than those that overwintered.
To plant, break the bulb into individual cloves, and use the largest cloves. (You can plant the tiny ones, but you’ll likely harvest very small bulbs.) One end will be flatter, and the other end pointed—plant so that the pointed end is up. Dig a small trench about 2 to 3 inches deep and place garlic 6 to 8 inches apart. Cover, and then mulch the bed with at least a few inches of straw to protect the small shoots from freezing.
On our farm, we avoid fungal and viral issues by first soaking the garlic in a mixture of seaweed and vodka for about ten minutes before planting. The result is healthy, abundant garlic, and plenty of jokes about drinking a “garlictini.”
GROW Here’s the good news: garlic is very much a “set and forget” kind of plant. Once it’s mulched, be sure to weed as needed, and pull the mulch back from around the garlic shoots in the spring so they don’t get trapped under the hay or straw. Beyond that, you can leave it alone to work its magic.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF GARLIC
per 100 g (3.5 oz)
Garlic is rich in potassium and vitamin C.
Energy |
149 kcal |
Carbohydrates |
33.06 g |
Dietary fiber |
2.1 g |
Fat |
0.50 g |
Protein |
6.36 g |
Water |
58.58 g |
Vitamin A |
0 µg |
Thiamine |
0.20 µg |
Riboflavin |
0.110 mg |
Niacin |
0.70 mg |
Vitamin B6 |
1.235 µg |
Folate |
3 µg |
Choline |
0 mg |
Vitamin C |
31.2 mg |
Vitamin E |
0.08 mg |
Vitamin K |
1.7 µg |
Calcium |
181 mg |
Iron |
1.70 mg |
Magnesium |
25 mg |
Manganese |
0 mg |
Phosphorus |
153 mg |
Potassium |
401 mg |
Sodium |
17 mg |
Zinc |
1.16 mg |
Source: USDA Nutrient Database
HARVEST & STORE About a month before it’s ready to harvest, garlic will develop a “scape” that curls up from the center. These are the flower stalks that, if left on, eventually form small bulbils that can be planted to grow more garlic, and also contain medicinal properties. Usually, they’re cut off the plant so that energy doesn’t get diverted from bulb formation. To cut the scape, clip as low as possible, right above the top leaf. The scapes can be chopped up and used in place of onions, and it imparts a mild garlic taste that’s amazing. Many people make pesto, and we love to throw them on the grill after rubbing with olive oil, since the scape will crisp up.
When the garlic is ready the harvest, the lower leaves will turn a yellowish brown, with the top leaves still green. Gently use a pitchfork or garden tool to loosen the soil around the garlic, then pull it up, leaving the stalks on.
You can eat this fresh garlic, but it’s better to cure the plant to prolong its storage capacity. Brush large bits of dirt from the bulb, but don’t wash or clean too thoroughly, then hang the garlic or dry flat in a shady spot with good airflow. Farmers use a barn, but I’ve seen home gardeners utilize rafters on a porch, beams in a shed, or even basement spaces for hanging garlic (use a box fan to get some air circulation if this is your method). In about two weeks, the bulbs inside the wrappers will dry, and you can cut off the stalks and store the bulbs or use them. You can also save these bulbs for planting the next garlic round.
In terms of preparation, garlic can enhance just about any dish I can imagine, except perhaps cereal or cupcakes. Slice thin, for pasta sauces, or add chunky pieces to salsa, soups, stews, and other dishes.
Lemon balm Melissa officinalisConsidered one of the cure-all types of herbs, lemon balm has a light citrus scent, especially when crushed, and is related to the mint family. During summer, small white flowers attract bees, giving the plant its botanical name (Melissa is Greek for “honeybee”) and making an attractive complement to fruits, flowers, and vegetables that need pollinators. Thanks to its delicious flavor and stress-relieving benefits, lemon balm has long been used as a general health tonic and a flavoring added to candies and ice cream. In the 15th century, a Swiss physician dubbed it the “elixir of life,” believing that regular use would raise the spirit and ensure continued wellness. In Austrian medicine, lemon balm leaves have regularly been used to treat the nervous system and gastrointestinal issues.
One of the herbal world’s most calming options, lemon balm has also been known to settle the stomach, much like mint. It also boasts some antihistamine properties, helpful for combatting seasonal allergies.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
For a chill-out tonic, create an infusion by pouring just-boiled water over 1 teaspoon dried or 2 teaspoons fresh lemon balm and letting steep for fifteen minutes. Cool, strain, and drink two to three times per day.
Make a tincture as a digestive aid. Put 7 ounces dried or 14 ounces fresh into a liter of vodka and water and let steep for two weeks, shaking daily. Drink a small amount before meals.
To repel mosquitoes, crush fresh leaves and rub on skin. Lemon balm contains the same properties as citronella, making it an excellent insect repellent.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Six to eight hours per day
Shade: Full sun or partial shade
Soil: Well-drained, loosened soil
Fertilizer: In spring and fall, followed by mulch
Pests: Tend to be minimal
Water: Regularly, depending on soil dryness
Grow Indoors? Yes
MEDICINE CABINET
One of the most promising aspects of lemon balm is its efficacy in treating children, as shown by numerous studies about restlessness and insomnia. Giving herbs to children makes many parents skittish—for good reason, as research is usually scant—so it’s nice to have a go-to option that’s well-tolerated in kids.
Effective for hyperactivity and concentration
Researchers examined whether lemon balm and valerian could be used for children suffering from hyperactivity and impulsiveness, ultimately improving concentration. They found significant improvement in the elementary school children studied who were given the herbs, leading them to conclude that lemon balm and valerian provide a viable option in addition to counseling and education.1
Helpful for sleep disorders during menopause
The onset of menopause is frequently associated with sleep disruption, with hot flashes intensifying insomnia, researchers noted. In attempting to find alternative therapies for the condition, researchers administered valerian and lemon balm to one group, and placebo to another. They found that “a significant difference was observed with reduced levels of sleep disorders amongst the experimental group when compared to the placebo group.”2
1. Gromball, J. “Hyperactivity, concentration difficulties and impulsiveness improve during seven weeks’ treatment with valerian root and lemon balm extracts in primary school children,” Phytomedicine 2014 Jul-Aug; 21(8-9): 1098-103 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24837472
2. Taavoni, S. “Valerian/lemon balm use for sleep disorders during menopause,” Complement Ther Clin Pract. 2013 Nov; 19(4):193-6. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24199972
Some herbs, like valerian or mullein, might require a hearty dose of motivation when using, since they’re not exactly the tastiest options. But lemon balm is one of those delightfully good-smelling and great-tasting herbs that are easy to work into recipes and teas. Best of all, it’s easy to grow and makes a nice addition to any ornamental landscape, thanks to its large, bright green leaves and late summer flowers.
VARIETIES The standard variety of lemon balm is called simply “common lemon balm,” and is sold both as starter plants and as seeds. There are golden (called aurea) and variegated (called variegata) cultivars that exist, but they’re not often offered through seed purveyors, and I’ve never seen them sold in any nurseries. That may be for good reason—those varieties tend to scorch with too much sun, making them a bit too fussy for home growers. Occasionally, it’s possible to find different varieties like Lime, which boasts a lime scent and flavor, and Quedlinburger Niederliegende, which has a very high essential oil content, but it’s more likely that you’ll find common lemon balm over other varieties.
PLANT Lemon balm does well started indoors and then transplanted outside, so if you have a greenhouse space, that’s ideal. However, even a kitchen windowsill will work. Place seeds in a tray or small individual pots, and water well. Once the plant is more established, transplant outdoors or into a large container, if that’s where you plan to grow it. Or, transplant into a bigger pot for indoor growing so the roots have more room to expand.
Many gardeners buy transplants rather than starting from seed, and this can be a stellar jumpstart, especially since lemon balm is available at many nurseries and greenhouses. Look for hearty, well-established plants that have both established and new leaves. One advantage to buying transplants is that they’ve already been “hardened” (adapted) to outside temperatures, so they can be transplanted right away.
Aim for loose, well-drained soil in either outdoor or indoor planting. Lemon balm responds well to fertilization so work some organic nutrients into the soil, such as compost or blood meal.
If growing inside, make sure that the pot can drain properly—avoid letting the plant sit in water—so that the roots stay dry. If planting outside, be sure to loosen the soil around the transplant and avoid compaction when securing it in its new home.
When the plant gets larger, add a layer of mulch around the roots so it can maintain adequate moisture levels, and doesn’t have to compete with weeds.
GROW Although it’s related to mint, lemon balm doesn’t spread in the same way as that herb, but it does get bushy if it’s not pruned regularly. To keep it from taking up too much space, cut lemon balm back often during the growing season, especially when it is flowering. Lemon balm seeds can spread throughout a garden, giving you more than you might need if you don’t keep it under control.
To help manage it and to assist with root moisture, mulch in midsummer around the roots, which can help stop the spread of seeds and has the added benefit of creating more nutrients for the soil.
If the plant looks stressed, cut it back and it should rejuvenate with new growth. Also add some fertilizer, like compost, around the roots, especially if you’ve harvested numerous times.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF LEMON BALM
The nutritional value of lemon balm has not been established.
HARVEST & STORE Although lemon balm flowers and stems can be harvested and dried, I’ve found the leaves to be the most flavorful and useful in terms of medicinal and culinary uses. They can be harvested anytime during the season, and the fresh leaves are delicious in teas and cocktails—try a few crushed leaves in a gin and tonic; it’s a revelation.
Fresh leaves can also be substituted in place of mint in dishes, chopped into salads, and put into lemonade or water. Tearing the leaves helps to release the flavor, so I always do at least a quick crush or tear before using.
When the growing season starts winding down, dry the leaves on a clean mesh screen and crumble into an airtight glass jar, then store in a cool, dark cupboard. You can use the herb throughout the winter in teas and infusions, and they’re especially helpful for the digestive system when you’re eating heavy winter fare like roasts and stews. Keep in mind, though, that lemon balm loses a significant amount of its flavor when dried, so you may need to use much more for teas than you would have used fresh. But don’t worry—soon enough, it’ll be summer again.
Mullein Verbascum thapsusHerbs often have numerous other names and nicknames, but mullein might trump them all, with the designation of “grandmother’s flannel” in reference to its soft, thick leaves. The wildflower often sprouts up in unexpected places (in the middle of a city sidewalk when I was an urban dweller, for example), and is remarkably tall, usually around 4 feet. The herb has been used for several purposes over the past few centuries, such as casting out evil spirits, and making wicks for candles since the leaves and stems ignite easily. In literature, Ulysses took mullein to protect himself against Circe, a goddess of magic. On the off chance that you don’t have any spirits to dispel, and aren’t on an epic journey worthy of literature, it can also be used to treat colds, sore throats, ear infections, and asthma.
Mullein has been smoked, burned as incense, and used for a wide range of medicinal applications, from pain management to respiratory issues.
Mullein dries easily, and can then be chopped with a spice grinder.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
For coughs, place fresh mullein leaves in a bowl and pour in boiling water; lean over the bowl with your head partially covered with a towel, for a steam inhalation that encourages respiratory cleansing.
Create an ointment for chapped lips and skin by steeping flowers in olive oil for about three weeks in a glass jar; shake the jar every day to keep flowers from settling on the bottom.
Staunch bleeding on minor wounds by snipping off a fresh leaf from the plant and holding against the wound until it stops bleeding.
Dry leaves and flowers to make tea, which can act as a general tonic or work as a sedative or pain reliever.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Eight to ten hours per day
Shade: Full sun
Soil: Can thrive in poor soil
Fertilizer: Usually not necessary
Pests: Tend to be minimal
Water: Moderate watering
Grow Indoors? No
Sometimes seen in abandoned lots and sidewalk cracks, mullein can become very sizeable, sometimes up to 8 feet tall, but usually stopping at about 4 feet. As its presence in poor soil indicates, the herb thrives in disturbed and even contaminated soil, making it a strong choice for parts of your garden where other herbs have failed to grow, or where you’d like to enrich the soil for future planting.
MEDICINE CABINET
Mullein has been found to kill viruses on contact, and a preliminary study suggests that the herb could help certain flu medications work better. The herb also contains saponins, which help to loosen mucus, which is why it’s often recommended for issues like coughs and colds.
Antioxidant effect
Mullein has been used in European folk medicine due to its anti-inflammatory and soothing action on the respiratory tract, researchers noted. In a study of mullein extract, they also found that the herb contains polyphenols that play an important role in exerting an antioxidant effect on the body.1
Treatment for ear pain in children
Otitis media is one of the most frequent diseases of early infancy and childhood and one of the most common reasons that children visit a physician. In a study about naturopathic treatments, researchers found that mullein, along with other herbs such as lavender and calendula, can be beneficial in pain reduction in the condition.2
1. Grigore, A., “Correlation between polyphenol content and anti-inflammatory activity of Verbascum phlomoides (mullein),” Pharm Biol 2013 Jul; 51(7):925-9. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23627472
2. Sarrell, E.M., “Naturopathic treatment for ear pain in children,” Pediatrics 2003 May; 111(5 Pt 1):e574-9. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12728112
VARIETIES When it comes to choices, mullein is very limited in variety. However, there are two main options that would do well in any garden, and are striking as ornamentals as well as medicinals:
Greek Mullein: Because mullein flowers can be used in teas and tinctures, this variety will be especially prized by anyone who appreciates those flavors. Native to Greece, the variety boasts a wealth of upright yellow flowers that are easily stripped down for harvest.
Common Mullein: Considered the most productive variety for leaf production; boasts thick, fuzzy leaves that are strong enough to be dried using a dehydrator.
PLANT Because mullein is often found in vacant lots and is often considered a weed, I deliberated over whether to include it in the “Wild Yard Friends” section instead of cultivated medicinal herbs. Mullein did, in fact, create a constellation of fuzzy leaves along the lawn of my former house in Minneapolis, causing my fussy neighbor to issue all kinds of passive-aggressive comments about weed control.
Fortunately, I moved. And I began growing mullein instead of searching for it, and found that cultivation naturally required a different mindset and strategy than foraging. Another advantage to growing it deliberately is that you won’t risk confusing mullein with foxglove, a plant that looks very similar and also has fuzzy leaves, but is considered toxic.
To grow mullein, it’s best to plant seeds indoors in early spring—the seeds need light in order to germinate, and so would be too exposed to birds if planted outside. Instead, place seeds in small pots into potting soil and press slightly, then cover with a very thin layer of vermiculite, a silicate that promotes rapid root growth, anchors young roots, and helps with moisture retention.. In the case of mullein, it helps to let light in for the seeds, but still protects the top layer of the soil during the germination process.
You’ll need that protection, because a thirty-day cold stratification process is recommended. That means mimicking the winter conditions necessary for a plant to emerge from winter’s cooler temps. Cover the small pots with plastic wrap to retain moisture, and place in a refrigerator kept under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds should germinate in about two weeks, and then you can remove them and let them continue growing in room temperature. Once the plant has two leaves, you can transplant them outdoors.
GROW Once mullein begins to establish, it grows well without much maintenance. This is a plant that can grow as tall as a basketball player, after all, in the middle of an empty parking lot. However, if you’re in the midst of drought-type conditions, water whenever the soil seems especially dry. Also, trim dead leaves from the bottom in order to encourage more growth.
Mullein is one of the few biennial herbs, which means it takes two years to mature. The first season, you’ll get only a small plant of downy leaves, looking like a rosette frosting accent on a cake. But the next summer, you’ll get the long flowering stalk that delivers the most medicinal clout. If your garden tends to be windy, considering staking the plant in its second year so it can maintain height.
HARVEST & STORE If you’re planning to use a variety that flowers abundantly, like Greek mullein, flower harvesting takes only moments—just grasp the bottom of a flower stem and zip your fingers upward while holding a bag or bowl underneath. This differs from common mullein, which is harvested by picking flowers individually.
Dry the flowers on a clean mesh screen, and either store in an airtight glass jar or use immediately to make a tea or tincture. Similarly, pick the fuzzy leaves, typically after the morning dew has burned off, and lay on the screen for drying as well. Because the leaves are so thick and hearty, they can also be dried in a dehydrator, on the lowest setting.
You can harvest leaves during the first year of growing, while flowers can be collected from two-year-old plants. Important note: don’t eat mullein seeds, since they can be irritating to the system, but you can use the seeds to propagate mullein in other parts of a garden.
One last and very odd use: mullein for fishing. Anyone who’s read Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel Garcia Marquez might remember a scene where characters put mullein in the water as they were fishing. Because the herb contains saponins, a compound that’s toxic to insects and fish—but harmless to people—throwing mullein in the water stuns the fish and causes them to float onto the water’s surface, where they’re easily scooped up. In Marquez’s scene, the practice is so effective that “the sea seemed paved with aluminum.”
Valerian Valeriana officinalisOne of the best-known herbal sedatives, valerian was used during both World War I and World War II to treat battle-related stress. Before that, the perennial flowering plant was used to make perfume extracts in the 16th century, and was favored in ancient Greece for treating ailments of the urinary tract, liver, and digestive system. Valerian was once used as a spice, and its roots added to stews or softened enough to be added to salads. Although it’s not consumed much (if ever) in the US as an edible, the herb continues to be added to dishes in other parts of the world. In addition to medicinal and culinary uses, valerian was once thought to bring squabbling couples back together, and acted as a major ingredient in love spells.
Valerian is the ultimate chill-out herb, and has been noted as one of the most effective plants for lowering blood pressure. As with many herbs, valerian shouldn’t be taken indefinitely; instead, use for a couple weeks, then take a week off from the herb before resuming use.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
For a general calming effect, make a tonic wine by using about 2 ounces of the dried root; crush and add to 1 cup of dry white wine, then steep for a month, gently shaking occasionally. Use up to three times daily or as needed.
To relieve PMS symptoms or assist with insomnia, create an infusion by crushing a teaspoon of fresh valerian root and soaking in a cup of room-temperature water for at least twelve hours. Strain, and then drink a small cup in the evening.
To create a compress for drawing out a splinter or bee stinger, make the infusion double strength and soak a clean cloth in the liquid, and then apply to the affected area.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Six to eight hours per day
Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Soil: Well-drained, loosened soil
Fertilizer: Compost and mulch in spring and autumn
Pests: Tend to be minimal
Water: Keep area moist but not soaked
Grow Indoors? Yes
MEDICINE CABINET
Considered an effective stress reliever, valerian has often been studied along with other calmative herbs like chamomile, lemon balm, and evening primrose as methods for addressing insomnia, anxiety, and depression.
Effective for hyperactivity and concentration
Researchers examined whether lemon balm and valerian could be used for children suffering from hyperactivity and impulsiveness, ultimately improving concentration. They found significant improvement in the elementary school children studied who were given the herbs, leading them to conclude that lemon balm and valerian provide a viable option in addition to counseling and education.1
Helpful for sleep disorders during menopause
The onset of menopause is frequently associated with sleep disruption, with hot flashes intensifying insomnia, researchers noted. In attempting to find alternative therapies for the condition, researchers administered valerian and lemon balm to one group, and placebo to another. They found that “a significant difference was observed with reduced levels of sleep disorders amongst the experimental group when compared to the placebo group.”2
1. Gromball, J. “Hyperactivity, concentration difficulties and impulsiveness improve during seven weeks’ treatment with valerian root and lemon balm extracts in primary school children,” Phytomedicine 2014 Jul-Aug; 21(8-9): 1098-103 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24837472
2. Taavoni, S. “Valerian/lemon balm use for sleep disorders during menopause,” Complement Ther Clin Pract. 2013 Nov; 19(4):193-6. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24199972
A towering perennial, valerian can grow to about 5 feet tall and often sports white flowers that provide a happy space for bees and butterflies. Because of that, it’s advisable to plant near vegetables and fruits that can benefit from pollinators, such as melons, tomatoes, or cucumbers. Its robust size also makes a nice backdrop to an ornamental landscape, and it trellises well on fencing.
VARIETIES The standard variety of valerian is called simply “common valerian,” or “official valerian” in reference to its botanical name. This type is native to Europe and temperate parts of Asia, and is remarkably hardy, down to -20 degrees Fahrenheit. Although other varieties are sometimes mentioned, finding seeds for these is difficult, and it’s much easier to secure the familiar, well-known variety.
Valerian leaves can also be used and made into a tea.
PLANT Although valerian can be grown from seed, germination can be tricky, so it’s best grown through root division. Dig up a small amount of an existing plant, leaving the majority of the roots in place, and transplant into a your garden space after loosening the soil. Place transplants into the soil carefully, and water thoroughly to help reduce shock. Mulch around the roots to assist with moisture control.
If you prefer to give seeding a try, start the seeds indoors in a small container (about 2 inches or so) first, which will keep the roots warmer, aiding in germination. Cover with a very thin layer of vermiculite, a silicate that’s fluffy and pebble-shaped. It helps to promote fast root growth, anchor young roots, boost moisture retention, and assist germination. Look for horticultural vermiculite, as opposed to other types that are used for shipping chemicals or enriching concrete. In the case of valerian, it helps to let light in for the seeds, but still protects the top layer of the soil during the germination process.
As the plant grows larger, transfer to a larger container (at least 6 inches deep) so the roots can establish more firmly. Transplant outside in early spring, after the last frost.
Use valerian seeds as soon as you can; they don’t store for long and germination suffers if you’re using seeds that are left over from the previous season.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF VALERIAN
The nutritional value of valerian has not been established.
GROW Once valerian is established, maintenance is minimal. It’s best to mulch around the roots each spring and autumn so that roots are well protected.
Keep in mind that cats love valerian, usually as much as catnip, and some ancient herbalists would gauge a plant’s potency based on how eager cats were to destroy it. If kitties are becoming an issue, consider some fencing or netting, but in general, if your cats are rolling in the valerian, it means you have a good crop.
HARVEST & STORE Although valerian leaves can be dried and used, the part of the plant most commonly used is its potent roots. Wait till after the plant’s flowering and summer stages and harvest part of the roots in late autumn of its second year, once the greens have died back and the plant’s energy is going into the roots to prepare for winter. Be sure to leave enough roots to keep the plant healthy for the next season—that’s not too difficult since even a small amount of the roots can be potent, and it only takes about a teaspoon of ground roots to make an infusion.
During the autumn, you can use fresh roots, as long as they’re thoroughly washed and allowed to dry. For preparations during the winter, let the roots dry in a well-ventilated area and store in an airtight glass jar in a cool, dark place.
One important note: valerian root has a very distinct aroma, which I tend to equate with dirty feet. Be prepared. If the smell bothers you too much while drinking tea, you can also get valerian’s benefits by putting some powdered root into empty gelatin capsules, available at co-ops, online, or some drug stores.
You can also dry the leaves to use as a tea for relaxation and insomnia. They aren’t as potent as the root, but they’re also much less stinky.
Yarrow Achillea millefoliumAs seen in its botanical genus name, yarrow was reportedly named after Greek hero Achilles, who used the herb to help his soldiers stop bleeding (apparently it doesn’t work as well on the vulnerable heels of mythical Greek heroes). Since then, the herb has been common in European herbal remedies, in part because yarrow contains flavonoids, a compound that increases stomach acid and saliva and helps with digestion. In general, though, the herb is best known for its ability to staunch wounds and stop bleeding, and some herbal practitioners recommend chewing the fresh herb briefly—which creates an added benefit of helping internal maladies—and placing the resulting mash onto open wounds. If you can get the son of a Greek god to do this for you, then by all means, pursue that route.
Often used as a garden ornamental, yarrow is a standout when it comes to medicinal purposes. The flowering tops are used to stop bleeding, and can be taken internally as a tonic for uterine health and gastrointestinal wellness.
Here are a few ideas for your Rx/medicinal preparations:
When you’ve experienced a small wound or gash, chew a few leaves of yarrow until it’s a mushy mass. Place on the wound in a poultice fashion, and wrap fresh, clean gauze over the chewed yarrow to stop bleeding. Avoid using on any deep cuts, since these should be treated medically instead.
Create an infusion by pouring just-boiled water over fresh or dried yarrow flowers; use to induce sweating after a fever as a way to detoxify the body.
Make a yarrow tonic wine by putting 3 ounces of fresh or dry flowers in 1 liter of white wine for thirty days. Strain, and drink a tablespoon daily to help absorb nutrients from meals.
CHECKLIST
Sun: Six to eight hours per day
Shade: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained, loosened soil
Fertilizer: A layer of compost under mulch when planting
Pests: Tend to be minimal
Water: When soil seems dry
Grow Indoors? No
As a perennial, yarrow has wide flower heads that are comprised of numerous, tightly packed flowers. The leaves resemble ferns, and have a delicate, wispy look when the plant is just establishing. Because of the herb’s pretty look and aromatic leaves, it makes a nice ornamental choice, particularly if you’re going for a “wildflower” kind of landscape.
MEDICINE CABINET
The young leaves of yarrow can be eaten fresh, and some people chew the leaves to relieve toothaches or to address gum issues. Herbalists have also recommended the herb for colds, loss of appetite, and gastrointestinal complaints. Unfortunately, the herb hasn’t been formally studied much, but hopefully, researchers will pick up on its benefits soon.
Addresses severe colds
Yarrow tea can help severe colds, especially those that result in fever and obstructed perspiration, herbalists note. An infusion made with a little cayenne pepper helps to open the pores and purify the blood.1
Long medicinal history
Yarrow has a rich history of being used as a medicinal treatment, since before the Bronze Age, according to a noted herbalist. The herb has been known for thousands of years as a treatment for wounds, and imparts antiseptic qualities that help staunch bleeding.2
1. http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/y/yarrow02.html#med
VARIETIES When choosing a yarrow variety, you’ll usually be making a choice based on color. At our farm, we’ve found that white yarrow grows best, germinates more reliably, and is considered the most medicinally active variety. But I’ve spoken to others who prefer other flower colors because they add more interest in a garden mix. Here are a few other options:
Coastal: Native to the coasts of Oregon and California, this temperate-climate yarrow has the largest flower head, and is extremely aromatic, making it especially tempting to pollinators.
Colorado Mix: Huge flower heads in multiple colors make this variety a stunner. The colors range from red, pink, yellow, and apricot, and flowers have a long life when cut for bouquets.
Cloth of Gold: This variety would be better named “cloth of butter” since the hue is a bright, fresh yellow.
Parker’s Variety: A hardy yarrow with feathery gray-green foliage and tiny yellow flowers.
PLANT Yarrow can be direct-seeded into a garden, but establishes better if it’s transplanted from a start that’s been nurtured indoors for about six to eight weeks before transplanting outside. If you want to speed germination, cover the top of a seeded pot with plastic wrap, which will trap moisture and heat inside, and remove the wrap when the seeds have sprouted.
You can also find yarrow, on occasion, at greenhouses and nurseries as an established start, and this is always a nice option if you’re running out of transplant space inside (believe me, I know the feeling).
Before transplanting outside, pick a spot with full sunshine and soil that drains well. Compacted soil will result in slow growth, or even no growth at all, so if your chosen yarrow spot seems dense, loosen up the area with a pitchfork or other cultivating tool. Although it sounds counterintuitive, consider a spot where other herbs have struggled or failed in the past. Yarrow does well with average-to-poor soil, although it can thrive in rich soil as well.
When planting, space plants 1 to 2 feet apart, since some varieties can grow up to 4 feet tall. Once the herb begins to establish, add a thin layer of compost (non-manure kind) followed by a few inches of mulch to help keep the roots moist but not wet.
GROW Most likely, you’ll just be paying attention to yarrow during harvest, or whenever there are drought conditions that require some occasional watering. Otherwise, the herb thrives on its own.
Because yarrow is a perennial and will come back each spring, prepare for the season by adding a new layer of compost and a thin layer of mulch each spring, and clearing away any debris or weeds from the previous season.
This herb does well if you thin it occasionally, making sure to give new growth plenty of room to spread out. Fortunately, you don’t need to compost what you’ve thinned if you’re removing healthy plants as you thin them; simply replant what’s been divided out in well-prepared soil someplace else in the garden. This might be a good time to offer yarrow to your neighbors, creating an area that’s ideal for beneficial insects and will attract happy bees.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF YARROW
The nutritional value of yarrow has not been established.
HARVEST & STORE Yarrow flowers and leaves are the most utilized, although you can also use the stems if you don’t feel like removing them before putting other dried components in a spice grinder.
Harvest when the plant is in full flower, and dry the flowers and leaves on a clean mesh, then crumble or grind and store in an airtight glass jar in a cool, dark location. You can use the dried flowers to make a tincture by using about 1/2 -teaspoon dried yarrow to 1 cup just-boiled water, and letting it steep for about five minutes. After straining, the tincture can be used as a tea, or made into a wound cleanser to control bleeding.
In the fall, harvest part of the yarrow root, but instead of drying it as you would with other herb roots, chew while it’s still fresh to relieve tooth pain.
Keep in mind that when using yarrow, particularly as a tea, you’ll likely work up a sweat. That’s because yarrow tends to raise body heat, and flush infection and fever out. That’s excellent for detox purposes, but you may not want to be sipping yarrow tea during an important work meeting, for example.
One important note about interactions: medications that slow blood clotting can interact negatively with yarrow. These drugs include some prescription meds like heparin and warfarin, but also common over-the-counter choices like aspirin, ibuprofen, and naproxen. So, if you’re taking one of those, skip the yarrow until you’re off that medication.
