ʻIao Valley & Central Maui

Kahului

Wailuku

Iao Valley State Monument

Waikapu

Maalaea

Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge

Puunene

ʻIao Valley & Central Maui

Why Go?

Welcome to the flat bit. Central Maui is the isthmus connecting the West Maui Mountains to mighty Haleakalā, giving the island its distinctive three-part shape. This odd wedge of topography, Maui’s most arable piece of land, was once known only for its fields of waving sugarcane, but it now boasts a potpourri of attractions. To the north, the island’s commercial center, Kahului, contains windswept Kanaha Beach, a hub for water sports. Sister-city Wailuku is a funky up-and-comer with the best lunch scene, and the gateway to the lush ʻIao Valley. On the southern coast, Maʻalaea is home to a top-notch aquarium and its harbor is the launchpad for a Molokini cruise.

When to Go

ACentral Maui is a beacon for kiteboarders and windsurfers who take advantage of the windy north shores. The strongest winds happen during the summer months, while surfers prefer the big swells of the winter months.

AKahului is predominantly warm and dry year-round, as it sits in between Maui's two giant mountainous regions. Meanwhile, the lush ʻIao Valley and Wailuku Town get daily precipitation.

AThe best flight and accommodation deals for Central Maui can be found in the fall, or between mid-April and mid-June. The most expensive flights into Kahului and coastal hotel rooms are during the whale-watching winter months.

AIn late November and early December a celebration of Hawaiian culture named Na Mele O Maui takes place in Kahului.

Best Places to Eat

A Geste Shrimp Truck

A Farmacy Health Bar

A Ichiban Okazuya

A Sam Sato's

A Tin Roof

Best Nature Spots

A ʻIao Valley State Monument

A Kealia Coastal Boardwalk

A Maui Ocean Center

A Maui Nui Botanical Gardens

A Kanaha Pond Bird Sanctuary

ʻIao Valley & Central Maui Highlights

1 Kanaha Beach Park Kite- and windsurfing this beautifully blustery stretch.

2 Blue Hawaiian Helicopters Taking an unforgettable aerial trip through the West Maui Mountains to Molokaʻi.

3 King Kamehameha Golf Club Teeing off at the island's only 18-hole course where the club house is a stunning Frank Lloyd Wright design.

4 ʻIao Valley State Monument Exploring Maui's lush interior and soaring emerald peaks.

5 Maui Swap Meet Browsing tent after tent of local arts, crafts and food.

‘Iao Valley & Central Maui

1Top Sights

1Kanaha Beach ParkF2

1Sights

2Alexander & Baldwin Sugar MuseumE4

3ʻIao NeedleA3

4Kealia Pond National Wildlife RefugeD7

5Maui Ocean CenterC7

6Maui Tropical PlantationC5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Air Maui Helicopter ToursF2

7Blue Hawaiian HelicoptersF2

8Da Beach HouseC7

Flyin Hawaiian ZiplineC5

9Kahili CourseC6

10Kealia Coastal BoardwalkD7

11King Kamehameha Golf ClubB5

Maʻalaea Harbor ActivitiesC7

12Maʻalaea PipelineC7

Maui ZiplineC5

13Pacific Whale FoundationC7

14QuicksilverC7

15Shark Dive MauiC7

Sunshine HelicoptersF2

16The Dunes at Maui LaniE4

5Eating

Beach Bums Bar & GrillC7

17Hula Cookies & Ice CreamC7

Maʻalaea General Store & CafeC7

Mill House DiningC5

7Shopping

18Old Puʻunene BookstoreF4

Kahului

Most Hawaiian Islands have a working town like Kahului, full of warehouses, strip malls, shopping centers, and that island-wide magnet, the big-box store. Like its counterparts, Kahului also contains Maui’s main harbor and airport, turning it, in the eyes of many, into a transit stop. But at the same time, you’ll find a great swath of local life here if you linger a little longer. You can talk to the locals at the Saturday swap meet, watch a concert on the lawn of the cultural center and join the wave-riders at Kanaha Beach.

Kahului

1Sights

1Halekiʻi-Pihana Heiau State MonumentA1

2Kahului HarborC2

3Kanaha Pond Bird SanctuaryF3

4Maui Nui Botanical GardensB3

Schaefer International GalleryC3

Story of Hawaii MuseumC4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Aqua Sports MauiE3

6Crater CyclesF4

7Hi-Tech Surf SportsF4

8Island BikerF4

9Kanaha KaiE2

10Maui Windsurf CompanyE3

11Naish Maui Pro CenterE3

5Eating

12Bistro CasanovaD3

Da KitchenF4

13Geste Shrimp TruckC2

Leis Family Class ActC3

14Paʻina Food CourtC3

15Safeway KahuluiE3

16Tasaka Guri-GuriE3

Thailand Cuisine IIE3

17Tin RoofF4

Whole FoodsE3

18Wow-Wee Maui's Kava Bar & GrillF4

6Drinking & Nightlife

19Kahului Ale HouseE3

20Maui Coffee RoastersF4

3Entertainment

21Maui Arts & Cultural CenterC3

7Shopping

22Bounty MusicE3

23Maui Swap MeetC3

24Queen Kaʻahumanu CenterC4

rBeaches

oKanaha Beach ParkBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Well, you can’t judge a beach by its cover. Wedged between downtown Kahului and the airport, and hidden behind a strip of ironwood trees, this mile-long stretch of sand is surf city, with scores of brilliant sails zipping across the waves. Kitesurfers converge at the southwest end, known as Kite Beach, while windsurfers head northeast. A roped-off swimming area lies in-between. Facilities include restrooms, showers and shaded picnic tables.

There’s no better place to learn how to ride the wind – or just to watch the action.

1Sights

Story of Hawaii MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-4547, 808-871-4547; www.storyofhawaiimuseum.com; 2nd fl, Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W Kaahumanu Ave; suggested donation adult/child $7/5; h11am-5pm)

This quirky place offers a fascinating look at the history of Hawaii as told through centuries of maps. The collection encompasses early explorers, the monarchy, territorial days, WWII, statehood and the golden era of the Matson cruise line. Of particular note is a map that suggests Captain Cook may not have been the first European to discover Hawaii.

To unlock the cartographic tale, the 30-minute, docent-led tour is a must. You can also buy giclée prints of what you see.

Kanaha Pond Bird SanctuaryBIRD SANCTUARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hwy 37; hsunrise-sunset)SF

You wouldn’t expect a wildlife sanctuary to be so close to a main road, but a short walk leaves it behind. This shallow marsh is a haven for rare Hawaiian birds, including native coots, black-crowned night herons, and the aeʻo (Hawaiian black-necked stilt), a graceful wading bird with long orange legs that feeds along the pond’s marshy edges. According to various Fish & Wildlife surveys the aeʻo population probably hovers around 1500 statewide, but you can count on spotting some here.

Maui Nui Botanical GardensGARDENS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-249-2798; www.mnbg.org; 150 Kanaloa Ave; adult/child under 13yr $5/free, Sat free; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)S

For botanophiles interested in native Hawaiian plants, this garden on the grounds of a former zoo has a wealth of knowledge. An excellent new audio tour ($5 or free with admission) brings it to life. Don’t expect the exotic tropicals that dominate most Hawaiian gardens; do expect dedicated staff. Staff also lead personal guided tours from 10am to 11:30am Tuesday to Friday by appointment (suggested donation $10).

Schaefer International GalleryMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-242-2787; www.mauiarts.org; 1 Cameron Way; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)F

This art gallery at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center has six exhibitions per year, ranging from native Hawaiian arts to contemporary local artists working in all mediums.

Kahului HarborHARBOR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Kahului’s large protected harbor is the island’s only deep-water port, so all boat traffic, from cruise ships to cargo vessels, docks here. But it’s not all business. Late afternoon you might see outrigger canoe clubs like Na Kai ʻEwalu (www.nakaiewalucanoeclub.org) practicing near Hoʻaloha Park – a timeless scene.

ISLAND INSIGHTS: THE GREAT DISCOVERY MYSTERY

While most historians credit Captain Cook with the European discovery of Hawaii, there is evidence that the Spanish may have preceded him. From South America to the Philippines, the vast Pacific was once part of Spain’s overseas empire. For over two centuries galleons made the trip from Mexico to Manila and back at the mercy of the winds. Is it possible that they discovered Hawaii? Conversely, is it possible that in hundreds of round-trips they did not? Spanish tradition contains references to the Islas del Rey, Islas de los Jardines, Islas de las Tables and Islas de las Mesas, any one of which could be Hawaii. Top candidates for Discoverer include Juan Gaytan, based on his rudimentary account of a trip outbound from New Spain in 1555, and Francisco Gauli, whose 1582 expedition strayed from the normal galleon route.

To review some of the evidence yourself, check out the fascinating Story of Hawaii Museum in Kahului. Not only does it have a Spanish map showing the Islas de las Mesas, but the map was captured from the Spanish by a British warship. In other words, Captain Cook’s navy had evidence of a mid-Pacific archipelago well before Cook himself. Perhaps the good captain had a better compass than we think.

2Activities

Kanaha Beach Park is the best place to windsurf on Maui, unless you’re an aspiring pro ready for Hoʻokipa. Board-and-rig rentals start at $59/387 per day/week, while beginner group introductory classes cost around $100. For more info see www.mauiwindsurfcompany.com.

Kitesurfing (or kiteboarding) is enormously popular in Kahului. The action centers on Kite Beach, the southwest end of Kanaha Beach Park. Here you can learn the ropes from some real pros, and you're likely to see vans from various water-sports companies parked in the lot. Expect to pay about $100 for discovery intro lesson. Check out the scene live at www.kitebeachcam.com.

Be sure to shop around and ask about discounts on lessons and rentals.

Kanaha KaiWATER SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-7778; www.kanahakai.com; 96 Amala Pl; rental per day SUP $35, windsurfing rigs from $57; h9.30am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb)

Windsurfing, SUP, kitesurfing and surfing rentals and lessons. Very competitive pricing. Look out for prebooked offers on the website.

Naish Maui Pro CenterADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-1500; www.naishmaui.com; 111 Hana Hwy, Suite 108; daily SUP rental from $45; h9am-5pm)

For SUP, windsurfing and kitesurfing equipment hire.

Hi-Tech Surf SportsWATER SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-2111; www.surfmaui.com; 425 Koloa St; rental per day surfboard from $25, SUP from $35, windsurf equipment $60; h9am-6pm)

Surfboard, SUP and windsurfing rentals.

Aqua Sports MauiKITESURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-242-8015; www.mauikiteboardinglessons.com; 3hr intro from $225)

Specializes in kitesurfing lessons.

Maui Windsurf CompanyWINDSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-4816; www.mauiwindsurfcompany.com; 22 Hana Hwy; 2½hr lesson per person from $100; h8.30am-5.30pm)

Want to get up and ride on a windsurf board? Maui Windsurf Company is friendly and all equipment is included in your lesson.

Crater CyclesMOUNTAIN BIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-893-2020; www.cratercycleshawaii.com; 400 Hana Hwy; downhill bikes per day $65; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Rents quality full-suspension downhill and road bikes, complete with helmet, pads and a roof rack. Provides good trail maps on its website.

Island BikerCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-7744; www.islandbikermaui.com; 415 Dairy Rd; per day/week $60/250; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)

Rents quality mountain bikes and road bikes.

The Dunes at Maui LaniGOLF

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-873-0422; www.dunesatmauilani.com; 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy; greens fee incl cart before 1pm $95, after 1pm $78, club hire $35; h6:30am-6pm)

With Maui’s second-highest USGA course rating, this 18-hole course will give scratch golfers playing from the tips a lot of fun. It’s easy to underestimate, but it has the highest slope rating of any course on Maui. Follow Dairy Rd south and it appears on the right.

TTours

In Hawaii the best helicopter tours operate out of Maui and Kauaʻi. So if you aren’t visiting the latter, this is your shot at the top. Various tour routes are available, but the finest combines the West Maui Mountains with the eastern end of Molokaʻi, a jaw-dropping, uninhabited region of unspoiled emerald-green valleys and waterfalls.

Several tour companies operate out of Kahului Heliport, alongside the airport. Check online and in free tourist magazines for significant discounts and ask about fuel surcharges.

oBlue Hawaiian HelicoptersTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-8844; www.bluehawaiian.com; 1 Kahului Airport Rd, Hangar 105; tours $152-510)

Industry-leader Blue Hawaiian flies the hi-tech Eco-Star, which has an enclosed tail rotor. Excellent visibility means you see everything, noise-cancelling headsets let you hear everything, and digital in-flight video brings the entire experience home. Tour prices depend on the itinerary and chopper; it also flies A-Stars, the industry workhorse. Professional staff operate like clockwork.

The signature West Maui Mountains tour by Eco-Star starts from $185 if booked online.

Air Maui Helicopter ToursTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-7005; www.airmaui.com; 1 Kahului Airport Rd, Hangar 110; tours $100-350)

A full range of tour options in A-Stars. Professionally run and good value. Solo travelers should check for single-seater deals from $100 before booking.

Sunshine HelicoptersTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-270-3999; www.sunshinehelicopters.com; 1 Kahului Airport Rd, Hangar 107; tours $225-515)

Well-established firm operating on four islands.

zFestivals & Events

oKi Hoʻalu Slack Key Guitar FestivalMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mauiarts.org; hJun)

Top slack key guitarists take the stage at this fun event, held on the lawn of the Maui Arts & Cultural Center each June.

Maui MarathonSPORTS

(www.mauimarathonhawaii.com; hmid-Sep)

This road race begins in Kahului and ends 26.2 miles later at Whalers Village in Kaʻanapali.

Maui Ukulele FestivalMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ukulelefestivalhawaii.org; hmid-Oct)

Held outdoors at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center on a Sunday in mid-October, this aloha event showcases uke masters from Maui and beyond.

Nā Mele O MauiMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mauiarts.org; hNov/Dec)

This celebration of Hawaiian culture features children’s choral groups singing native Hawaiian music. The aloha-rich event is held in late November/early December at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center.

5Eating

oGeste Shrimp TruckSEAFOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-298-7109; www.gesteshrimp.com; Kahului Beach Rd; mains $13; h11am-5:30pm Tue-Sat)

Beside Kahului Harbor, this small white food truck – emblazoned with a giant shrimp – serves the tastiest shrimp on Maui – maybe even the world! A dozen costs $13 and you'll get a scoop of crab mac salad and rice to go with them. It's a messy meal so bring something to wipe your hands on, don’t wear white and don’t eat in your car! Nearby Maui Nui Botanical Gardens has picnic tables.

Tin RoofJAPANESE, HAWAIIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-868-0753; www.tinroofmaui.com; 360 Papa Pl; mains from $5-10; h10am-2pm Mon-Sat)

The latest venture from celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon proves a restaurant can be successful no matter the venue – in this case a tin-roofed outlet next to Payday Loans. Be prepared to queue for his tasty kau kau tins of flavorsome pork belly, rice and salsa, or mochiko chicken marinated in ginger sake shoyu, topped with su-miso sauce, gochujang aioli, and mochi crunch.

Wow-Wee Maui’s Kava Bar & GrillBURGERS, SANDWICHES$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-1414; www.mauikavabar.com; 333 Dairy Rd; mains $7-17; h10.30am-9pm)

The grill dominates the kava at this buzzing local joint, but it’s still your best chance to try piper methysticum, a ceremonial drink made from the kava plant that has an earthy taste and numbs your mouth. The rest of the restaurant offers good burgers, wraps, and mains including Hawaiian BBQ pork, grilled salmon and baby back ribs.

Tasaka Guri-GuriICE CREAM$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-4513; 70 E Kaʻahumanu Ave, Maui Mall; 2 scoops/quart $1.30/6; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)

For the coolest treat in town, queue up at this hole-in-the-wall shop dishing up homemade pineapple sherbet. The guri-guri, as it’s called, is so popular that locals take it to friends on neighboring islands. Cash only.

Paʻina Food CourtFOOD HALL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mauiculinary-campusdining.com; 310 W Kaʻahumanu Ave, Maui College; mains $6-9; h7:30am-2pm Mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri)

With tenants like Paniolo Grill and World Plate, this multi-stall food court isn’t your average campus fare. Run by students from Maui College’s acclaimed culinary arts program, it’s worth a detour for choice alone. The food court is inside the Paʻina Building, which borders the parking lot beside the easy-to-find Maui Swap Meet grounds off Wahinepio Ave.

Thailand Cuisine IITHAI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-873-0225; www.thailandcuisinemaui.net; 70 E Kaʻahumanu Ave, Maui Mall; mains $12-21; h11am-2:30pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Mon-Sun; v)

This family-run eatery is one of Maui’s best ethnic restaurants. Start with the shrimp summer rolls, then move on to aromatic green curries or perhaps the ginger-grilled mahimahi.

Da KitchenHAWAIIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-7782; www.dakitchen.com; 425 Koloa St, Triangle Sq; mains $10-27; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat)

Tasty grinds (local food) attract all kinds to this strip mall eatery. The kalua pork is, as they say, ‘so tender it falls off da bone’, while the more expensive plate lunches are big enough to feed two. Expect a crowd at lunch but the service is quick.

oBistro CasanovaMEDITERRANEAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-873-3650; www.casanovamaui.com; 33 Lono Ave; lunch $9-20, dinner $14-36; h11am-9:30pm Mon-Sat)

An offshoot of the popular Casanova in Makawao, this is Kahului’s classiest dining option, with happy hour offers on wine, beer and cocktails (from $5) between 4pm and 6pm. On the dinner menu the seafood and steaks are good and come with plenty of Kula veggies. The setting is upscale and urban. Reservations are recommended at dinner, when the bistro can fill with a pre-theater crowd en route to a show at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center.

Leis Family Class ActINTERNATIONAL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-984-3280; www.mauiculinary-campusdining.com; 310 W Kaʻahumanu Ave, Maui College; prix fixe per person $30-42; h11am-12:30pm Wed & Fri)

Maui Culinary Academy’s fine-dining restaurant connects an ocean view with the opportunity to watch up-and-coming chefs create a four-course locavore meal. The menu rotates between countries. Reserve online.

Whole FoodsSUPERMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-872-3310; www.wholefoodsmarket.com; 70 E Kaʻahumanu Ave, Maui Mall; h7am-9pm)

Whole Foods carries island-grown produce, fish and beef, and is a good place to pick up lei.

Safeway KahuluiSUPERMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-3377; www.safeway.com; 170 E Kamehameha Ave; h24hr)

For groceries, the Safeway in the town center never closes.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Maui Coffee RoastersCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-645-2877; www.mauicoffeeroasters.com/cafe; 444 Hana Hwy; pastries $4-9, sandwiches & wraps $7-10; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8am-4pm Sun; W)

Enjoy good vibes and good java at this bright and upbeat cafe where locals sip lattes and nibble wraps while surfing free wi-fi. Kitchen hours 7am to 5pm Monday to Saturday and 8am to 2:30pm Sunday.

Kahului Ale HouseSPORTS BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-0001; www.alehouse.net; 355 E Kamehameha Ave; h11am-10.30pm)

With 35 flat-screen TVs, Maui’s top sports bar won't let you miss a single play. Pub grub includes burgers, sandwiches and pizzas. Live music from about 5pm to 8pm or so daily. The kitchen is open late.

3Entertainment

Maui Arts & Cultural CenterCONCERT VENUE

(MACC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-242-7469; www.mauiarts.org; 1 Cameron Way)

This snazzy performance complex opened in 1994 and boasts two indoor theaters and an outdoor amphitheater. As Maui’s main venue for music, theater and dance, the MACC hosts everything from ukulele jams to touring rock bands. Look out for the Ki Ho‘alu Slack Key Guitar Festival, usually in June, and the Maui Ukulele Festival held every year in October.

Be sure to stop by the Schaefer International Gallery beforehand, to see the latest art exhibition.

7Shopping

Kahului hosts Maui’s big-box discount chains of the Wal-Mart and Costco variety, as well as its reigning shopping mall, Queen Kaʻahumanu Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-3369; www.queenkaahumanucenter.com; 275 W Kaʻahumanu Ave; h9:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun).

oMaui Swap MeetMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-3100; www.mauiexposition.com; 310 Kaʻahumanu Ave, Maui College; adult/child 12yr & under 50¢/free; h7am-1pm Sat)

Don’t be misled by 'swap meet’. This outdoor market is not a garage sale, nor a farmers market, but an arts and crafts show of the highest order. Scores of white tents, set up behind Maui College, are chock-full of fascinating, high-quality merchandise, most of it locally made, including jewelry, sculptures, clothing and Hawaii memorabilia. Come here for a meaningful souvenir.

Bounty MusicMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-214-1591; www.bountymusicmaui.com; 111 Hana Hwy; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

Hawaiian music lovers should step inside for all sorts of ukuleles, from inexpensive imported models to handcrafted masterpieces. Rentals, too. And if you're lucky you might catch some impromptu live music.

8Information

Bank of HawaiiBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-8250; www.boh.com; 11 E Kamehameha Ave; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

ATM available here.

Department of Parks & Recreation – Central DistrictTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-270-7389; www.mauicounty.gov; 700 Halia Nakoa St, War Memorial Gymnasium; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)

Useful for updates on national parks and to apply for camping permits.

Longs DrugsPHARMACY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-877-0068; 70 E Kaʻahumanu Ave, Maui Mall; h24hr; pharmacy 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun)

More than just a pharmacy – a local institution offering everything from flip-flops to souvenirs.

Maui Memorial Medical CenterHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-9056; www.mauimemorialmedical.org; 221 Mahalani St; h24hr)

The island’s main hospital. For extreme emergencies, flying to Queen's Medical Center in Honolulu may be preferable.

Mahalani St is off W Kaahumanu Ave, right between Kahului and Wailuku.

Maui Visitors BureauTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-872-3893; www.gohawaii.com/maui; Kahului Airport; h5am-10pm)

This staffed booth in the airport’s arrivals area has tons of tourist brochures.

8Getting There & Away

Most people fly into Kahului International Airport (OGG; GOOGLE MAP ; %808-872-3830; http://hawaii.gov/ogg; 1 Kahului Airport Rd), Maui's main airport, which is located at the eastern side of town, just a short taxi ride from the restaurants and shops of the city. Direct flights arrive here from the US mainland and Canada.

The majority of the car-hire companies on the island operate from the airport. Local Bio-Beetle ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-873-6121; https://mauicarrentals.us; 55 Amala Pl; per day $50-90, per week $150-400) rents a spread of ecofriendly vehicles, including biodiesel VW bugs, gas and electric Chevy Volts, and the purely electric Nissan Leaf. Free airport pick-up and drop-off is offered.

8Getting Around

Maui Bus (www.co.maui.hi.us) connects Kahului airport with downtown Kahului via the Haiku Islander (route 35) and the Upcountry Islander (route 40), both of which run hourly throughout the day. Maui Bus routes also connect with Wailuku, Paia and Haiku. Each route costs $2. Infants under two years old travel for free.

Shuttle services from the airport, including Roberts Hawaii (%1800-831-5541; www.robertshawaii.com), run to various destinations in Maui. Fares start from $10 one way, while a taxi from the airport to central Kahului costs from $13.

Wailuku

Four streams feed the lush landscape surrounding Wailuku, which made the area an important food source and landholding for Maui chieftains. Missionaries took up residence here in the 1800s. Today, while offering more sights on the National Register of Historic Places than any other town on Maui, Wailuku sees few tourists. And that is its appeal. An earthy mishmash of curio shops, galleries and mom-and-pop stores surround the modern center of the county capital, all begging to be browsed. If you’re here at lunchtime you’re in luck. Thanks to a combination of low rent and hungry government employees, Wailuku dishes up tasty eats at prices that shame more touristy towns.

Wailuku

1Top Sights

1Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey HouseA3

1Sights

2Kaʻahumanu ChurchB3

5Eating

3808 on MainC3

4A Saigon CaféD2

5Farmacy Health BarC3

6Giannotto's PizzaC3

7Ichiban OkazuyaB4

8Sam Sato'sC1

9Tasty CrustC1

10Wailuku Coffee CoC2

3Entertainment

11ʻIao TheaterC2

7Shopping

12Bird-of-Paradise Unique AntiquesC2

13Brown-KobayashiC2

14Native IntelligenceC2

1Sights

A cluster of historic buildings anchor the small downtown. Hawaii’s best-known architect, Maui-born CW Dickey, left his mark here before moving on to fame in Honolulu. The c 1928 Wailuku Public Library is a classic example of his distinctive regional design, and its double-pitched hip roof is his signature element. Another Dickey creation, the Territorial Building, sits across the street. To learn more, pick up a copy of the free Wailuku Historic District walking map at the Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House or download it at www.mauimuseum.org. Five buildings along the walk are on the National Register of Historic Places.

oHale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey HouseMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-3326; www.mauimuseum.org; 2375a Main St; adult/child 7-12yr $7/2; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat)

This small but historically evocative museum occupies the 1833 home of Wailuku’s first Christian missionary, Edward Bailey. He was the second missionary to occupy the house and lived here nearly 50 years. The home gives you a sense of what it was like to live in missionary times while also containing a collection of interesting artifacts, including a shark-tooth dagger and a notable collection of native wood bowls, stone adzes, feather lei and tapa cloth.

Outside there’s a historic koa canoe (c 1900) and a 10ft redwood board used by surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku.

Kaʻahumanu ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 103 S High St)

This handsome missionary church is named for Queen Kaʻahumanu, who cast aside the old Hawaiian gods and allowed Christianity to flourish. The clock in the steeple, brought around the Horn in the 19th century, still keeps accurate time. The church is usually locked, but hymns still ring out in Hawaiian at Sunday services.

Halekiʻi-Pihana Heiau State MonumentRUINS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hea Pl; h7am-7pm)

Halekiʻi-Pihana Heiau is the hilltop ruins of two of Maui’s most important heiau (ancient stone temples). The site was the royal court of Kahekili, Maui’s last ruling chief, and the birthplace of Keopuolani, wife of Kamehameha the Great. After his victory at the battle of ʻIao in 1790, Kamehameha marched to this site to worship his war god Ku, offering the last human sacrifice on Maui.

With this history, it is surprising to find the site overgrown and nearly forgotten. Even the parking lot is closed. Yet, surprisingly, the ravages of time add something to the visit. Instead of merging with another bus tour group, you’ll likely be by yourself, reflecting on the contrast between these ancient temples and the modern suburb lapping at their doorstep. Concentrate on the wild ocean and mountain vistas, and you might notice a certain mana (spiritual essence) still permeating the air.

The site is about 2 miles northeast of central Wailuku. From Waiehu Beach Rd (Hwy 340), turn inland onto Kuhio Pl, then take the first left (Hea Pl, missing sign) and park near the end on the residential street. Follow the closed road up to the site. Halekiʻi, the first heiau, has stepped stone walls that tower above ʻIao Stream, the source for the stone used in its construction. The pyramid-like mound of Pihana Heiau is a five-minute walk beyond. Some faded placards provide historical background. A round-trip is a quarter mile.

zFestivals & Events

oWailuku First FridayCARNIVAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mauifridays.com; h1st Fri of the month 6pm-9pm)

On the first Friday of every month, Market St turns into a pedestrian zone and laid-back street party, with several bands, lots of tasty food options, and even a beer garden. This is Wailuku at its finest, so don’t miss it if you’re nearby.

Maui County FairFAIR

(www.mauifair.com; hSep or Oct)

Get a feel for Maui’s agricultural roots at this venerable fair held in late September or early October, with farm exhibits, tasty island grinds and a dazzling orchid display.

E Hoʻoulu AlohaCULTURAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-3326; www.mauimuseum.org; hNov & Dec)

This old-Hawaii-style festival held towards the end of the year at the Bailey House Museum features hula, music, crafts and food. You won’t find a friendlier community scene. Phone the museum to check dates.

5Eating

oSam Sato’sJAPANESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-7124; 1750 Wili Pa Loop; mains under $10; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat)

On busy days, Sam Sato's may use 350lb of noodles to keep the crowds sated. A Hawaii classic, this place packs them in with steaming bowls of noodles and delicious manju (Japanese cakes filled with sweet bean paste). You’ll find yourself waiting for a table at lunchtime, but there’s often room at the counter. The dry mein is the signature dish.

Farmacy Health BarHEALTH FOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-866-4312; www.facebook.com/farmacyhealthbar; 12 N Market St; smoothies $9, mains $10-14; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Sun)

The acai creations are so cold they chill your teeth at this spare but inviting health-food eatery where you'll feel invigorated just reading the menu. Smoothies are packed with fruit, and a handful of good-for-you salads come with locally grown veggies. Sandwiches can be made with sourdough, wheat, pita or gluten-free bread. Best for takeout. And check out those bright green walls!

Ichiban OkazuyaJAPANESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-7276; 2133 Kaohu St; mains $9-12; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri)

Little more than a tin-roofed shed, this place tucked behind the government buildings has been dishing out tasty Japanese-style plate lunches to office workers for half a century, so you’d better believe it has the recipes down pat.

Wailuku Coffee CoCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-495-0259; www.wailukucoffeeco.com; 26 N Market St; mains under $9; h7am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun; Wv)

Located in the bays of a 1920s gas station, this is (as a sign proclaims) 'where the hip come to sip.’ But if you’re a few years behind the times, don’t worry: in Wailuku this means surfing the web in your T-shirt while downing a toddy (iced coffee). Enjoy the smoothies, sandwiches, salads and pita pizzas too.

Tasty CrustDINER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-0845; 1770 Mill St; breakfast $6-17, lunch & dinner $7-17; h6am-3pm Mon, to 10pm Sun & Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

The old-school American diner gets a Hawaiian twist at this low-frills locals’ joint. Breakfast standbys like Denver omelets and banana pancakes jostle for attention with loco moco, Spam, and fried rice with egg. Settle in among the families, crying babies and breakfast-steak-eating businesspeople for a solid budget meal on your way to ʻIao Valley.

808 on MainBURGERS$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-242-1111; www.808onmain.com; 2051 Main St; mains $9.50-18; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri)

Serving hearty salads, sandwiches and burgers, this new restaurant has simple airy decor and fairy lights inside. The pupu (snacks) menu includes dishes like Buffalo Brussels sprouts with hot sauce and blue cheese, and kimchi pork balls with goat cheese and sambal aioli. Pupu, beer and wine are discounted during the daily happy hour deal from 3pm to 6pm.

A Saigon CaféVIETNAMESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-243-9560; cnr Main & Kaniela Sts; mains $10-29; h10am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30pm Sun)

The oldest and best Vietnamese restaurant on Maui is out of the way, but it rewards the search. Menu stars include Buddha rolls in spicy peanut sauce and aromatic lemongrass curries.

Giannotto’s PizzaITALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-8282; www.giannottospizza.com; 2050 Main St; pizza slice $2-4, mains $7-27; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

Brando, Sinatra and the Sopranos look down in approval from the cluttered walls of Giannotto’s, a family-run pizza joint known for its home recipes.

3Entertainment

ʻIao TheaterTHEATER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-242-6969; www.mauionstage.com; 68 N Market St; hbox office 11am-3pm Mon, Wed & Fri)

Nicely restored after years of neglect, this 1928 art-deco theater, which once hosted big names such as Frank Sinatra, is now the venue for community theater productions.

7Shopping

Bird-of-Paradise Unique AntiquesANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 56 N Market St; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

This place is stuffed to the gills with vintage Hawaiiana.

Native IntelligenceGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-249-2421; www.native-intel.com; 1980 Main St; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

Hula instruments, koa bowls and finely handcrafted items.

Brown-KobayashiANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 38 N Market St; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)

Museum-quality Asian antiques.

8Information

First Hawaiian BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fhb.com; 27 N Market St)

ATM available here.

Maui Visitors BureauTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-3530, 800-525-6284; www.gohawaii.com/maui; 1727 Wili Pa Loop; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)

For local information pop into the Maui Visitors Bureau or visit its website to download or order a Maui visitor’s guide. Also represents Lanaʻi and Molokaʻi.

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-1653; www.usps.com; 250 Imi Kala St; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

WAILUKU TO ʻIAO VALLEY STATE MONUMENT

It’s hard to believe today, but the route from Wailuku to ʻIao Valley was the site of Maui’s bloodiest battle. In 1790 Kamehameha the Great invaded Kahului by sea and drove the defending Maui warriors up ʻIao Stream. As the valley walls closed in, those unable to escape over the mountains were slaughtered. The waters of ʻIao Stream were so choked with bodies that the area was named Kepaniwai (Dammed Waters).

ʻIao Valley State Monument

As you drive out of Wailuku, ʻIao Valley’s emerald lushness envelops you, concluding with an explosion of riparian and mountain greenery at ʻIao Valley State Monument ( GOOGLE MAP ; %808-587-0400; http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp; per car $5; h7am-7pm), deep inside the bosom of the West Maui Mountains. The scenery is dramatic, with sheer peaks soaring in all directions, most notably ʻIao Needle. Rising above the lush rainforest, and caressed by passing mist, this rock pinnacle stands as a monument to your journey, while marking the entrance to the mysterious, uninhabited valley beyond. Most will never go beyond the viewpoint, but the park extends clear up to Puʻu Kukui (5788ft), Maui’s highest and wettest place.

Unfortunately, in late 2016 the area suffered severe flood damage. At the time of writing it was closed for repairs, and trails through the park were also closed. However, park officials expect it to reopen imminently. Check the Department of Land & Natural Resources (http://dlnr.hawaii.gov) website before your visit.

1Sights & Activities

After entering the 'Iao Valley State Monument, just after the parking lot, you'll reach a bridge. If the water is high you may see local kids taking bravado jumps from the bridge to the rocky stream below. Don’t even think about doing this. Take your dip further on, remembering that flash floods do occur here.

After crossing this bridge you will come to two short trails that start opposite each other. Both take just 10 minutes to walk and shouldn’t be missed. The upper path leads skyward up a series of steps, ending at a sheltered lookout with a close-up view of ʻIao Needle. The lower path leads down along ʻIao Stream, skirting the rock-strewn stream bed past native hau trees with their fragrant hibiscus-like flowers. Look around and you’ll be able to spot fruiting guava trees as well. The lower path returns to the bridge by way of a garden of native Hawaiian plants, including patches of taro.

These trails were closed at the time of writing, due to a severe flood at the end of 2016. Check if they've reopened before your visit.

ʻIao NeedleLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Rising straight up to 2250ft, this velvety green pinnacle is Maui’s iconic landmark. Most people shoot their mandatory photos from the bridge near the parking lot. A better idea, though, is to take the walkway just before the bridge that loops downhill by ʻIao Stream. This leads to the nicest angle, one that captures the stream, bridge and ʻIao Needle together. The park was closed for repairs at the time of research but it is due to reopen imminently; check with Department of Land & Natural Resources (http://dlnr.hawaii.gov) before your visit.

The pinnacle takes its name from ʻIao, the daughter of Maui. According to legend, Maui and the goddess Hina raised their beautiful daughter deep in this hidden valley to shelter her from worldly temptations. But a merman (half-man, half-fish) swam into the valley one night and took ʻIao as a lover. When Maui discovered the affair he snatched the merman and threatened to cast him out to sea. ʻIao pleaded that she could not live without the sight of her beloved, so instead Maui turned him into a needle of stone.

ʻIao Valley TrailHIKING

This little-known dirt trail heads deep into ʻIao Valley. It begins on the lower trail after the bridge, over the fence near the end of the cement path, and is marked by a ‘Stay on Marked Trails’ sign. Beautiful and pristine, it leads through the jungle, paralleling ʻIao Stream, and eventually ends at a steep cliff. Note that the park was closed for repairs in 2016 and is expected to reopen imminently; check the Department of Land and Natural Resources (http://dlnr.hawaii.gov) website before your visit.

Great views lead back past Wailuku to the sea. This is your only chance to walk into the valley. Allow for a two-hour round-trip.

Waikapu

Located in the foothills of the West Maui Mountains, Waikapu was once a taro farming area but is now a large tract of land with thousands of residents. For visitors, highlights include vast open spaces, a top-notch golf course and a thrilling zipline.

1Sights & Activities

Maui Tropical PlantationFARM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-244-7643; www.mauitropicalplantation.com; 1670 Honoapiʻilani Hwy; admission free, tram tour adult/child 3-12yr $20/10; h9am-5pm, tram tours 10am-4pm, departing every 45min; p)

This longstanding tourist attraction is a cross between a farm, a shopping mall and a theme park. The large gift shop stocks art, aloha wear and gift food. Various plantation huts offer everything from chocolate to jewelry to ziplining (hours vary). Kumu Farms adds organic produce and gourmet products, while a historic house contains photographs of old Waikapu Valley.

oFlyin Hawaiian ZiplineADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-463-5786; www.flyinhawaiianzipline.com; 1670 Honoapiʻilani Hwy, Maui Tropical Plantation; per person $185)

Wheeeee! Adrenaline junkies will revel in this new ziplining addition. Located high in the crumpled folds of the West Maui Mountains, this course spans nine valleys with eight lines, including one 3600ft monster, achieving speeds of more than 50mph. Allow four to five hours. Minimum age: 10 years old; weight 75lb to250lb.

oKing Kamehameha Golf ClubGOLF

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-249-0033; www.kamehamehagolf.com; 2500 Honoapiʻilani Hwy; morning round $205; h6:30am-6:30pm)

The only 18-hole private club on Maui, and the island’s most challenging course, is surprisingly friendly to the public. One-day guests can enjoy a round of golf for less than most resort courses. The extraordinary bi-coastal vistas are matched only by the spectacular Frank Lloyd Wright clubhouse, considered by Golf Digest as possibly the best in the country.

Kahili CourseGOLF

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-242-4653; www.kahiligolf.com; 2500 Honoapiʻilani Hwy; greens fees incl cart $75-95; h6am-6:30pm)

Nestled at the base of the West Maui Mountains, just down the street from its private sister, King Kamehameha Golf Club, this beautiful public course is in outstanding condition and offers great value. The topography is very hilly, but otherwise the course is only moderately difficult. There are no adjacent properties in sight, so no, you won’t break any windows.

Maui ZiplineADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-633-2464; www.mauizipline.com; 1670 Honoapiʻilani Hwy, Maui Tropical Plantation; per person $110; h9am-3:30pm)

Located on the grounds of Maui Tropical Plantation, this is an extremely tame, five-line course designed for families, with a low five-year-old, 50lb limit and dual lines. The zip over a pond adds some spice. However, without any discount for kids, families pay a lot for this two-hour experience.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

A FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT MASTERPIECE

The clubhouse at the King Kamehameha Golf Club is Maui’s great anomaly: a building that should be known worldwide is hardly mentioned on the island, or visited by anyone save its members.

The spectacular rose building looks like a set from Star Wars, and is beautifully sited in the Waikapu Valley, at the foot of the West Maui Mountains. A whopping 75,000 sq feet in area, it can be seen from the slopes of Haleakalā. Originally designed as a much smaller home by famed American architect Frank Lloyd Wright, it contains many artistic flourishes, including art glass, etched designs and an elegant Hawaiian art collection.

Wright adapted the design for three successive clients, including Marilyn Monroe, but never broke ground. In 1988, three decades after his death, Japanese investors purchased the plans, intent on building a clubhouse in Maui. They poured $35 million into the project, including further adaptation by one of Wright’s apprentices. Then the Japanese economy collapsed in 1999, the club closed, and the greens turned brown. In 2004 another Japanese investor bought the property, and spent $40 million more. Today the club is working to fill its roster, but this is no reflection on the course, or the magnificent building that crowns it.

The public is welcome to tour the building free of charge, and to visit the restaurant. A brochure about the building and the art collection is available at the entrance. Note that the clubhouse is a short drive up the hill beyond the pro shop.

5Eating

Mill House DiningFUSION$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-270-0333; www.millhousemaui.com; 1670 Honoapiilani Hwy, Maui Tropical Plantation; dinner $18-55; h11.00am-9pm)

With an emphasis on local farm-fresh food, the recently opened Mill House Dining is impress-your-friends-dining without being stuffy. Inventive dishes take the form of pork belly with fennel jam, carrot and brassica, or Hawaiian kampachi fish with soubise (onion sauce), Vietnamese dipping sauce, cucumber, cashew, basil and mint. Some ingredients are actually hand-picked from the beautiful setting – the surrounding plantation’s fields.

Maʻalaea

Ma‘alaea is the jumping-off point for exploring Maui's coastline by boat. Many tour companies work out of this cute little harbor. The biggest draw is the whale-waching and snorkeling trips that run from here to Molokini – a submerged volcanic crater offshore with excellent visibility. Maʻalaea Bay is home to a surf-spot pipeline, which, when the winds and swells align, can produce fast barrels. It’s no coincidence that Maui’s first windmill farm marches up the slopes here in windy Ma'alaea. By midday the winds pick up and you might need to hold on to your hat.

Looking out to Kahoʻolawe, with Molokini in the distance | Ron Dahlquist/Getty Images ©

rBeaches

Maʻalaea BayBEACH

Maʻalaea Bay is fronted by a 3-mile stretch of sand, running from Maʻalaea Harbor south to Kihei. Access is from Haycraft Park at the end of Hauoli St in Maʻalaea and from several places along N Kihei Rd including Kealia Beach, which parallels the Kealia Coastal Boardwalk. Parking is limited, but the beach is mostly deserted.

1Sights

Maui Ocean CenterAQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-270-7000; www.mauioceancenter.com; 192 Maʻalaea Rd; adult/child 3-12yr $28/20; h9am-5pm Sep-Jun, to 6pm Jul & Aug; c)

This midsize aquarium showcases Hawaii’s dazzling marine life, including many species found nowhere else. The floor plan takes you on an ocean journey, beginning with nearshore reefs teeming with colorful tropical fish and ending with deep-ocean sealife. The grand finale is a 54ft clear acrylic tunnel that leads you through a large tank as sharks and rays glide by. Local ordinance prevents exhibition of live cetaceans, so there’s no dolphin show.

WORTH A TRIP

WORTH A TRIP: MOLOKINI

Molokini is a volcanic crater sitting midway between the islands of Maui and Kahoʻolawe. Half of the crater has eroded, leaving a pretty 18-acre crescent moon that rises 160ft above the sea. But what lies beneath is the main attraction. Steep walls, ledges and an extraordinary fringing reef attract white-tipped reef sharks, manta rays, turtles, abundant fish – and some 1000 visitors per day, most armed with a snorkel and mask. Basic snorkeling trips from Maʻalaea Harbor start from about $90 per person. For more info call or visit the Maʻalaea Harbor Activities ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-280-8073; www.maalaeaharboractivities.com; Maʻalaea Harbor; h9am-8pm) hut. Trips also leave from Kihei. Avoid discounted afternoon tours: the water is calmest and clearest in the morning, but it can get rough and murky later.

2Activities

Wicked winds from the north shoot straight out toward Kahoʻolawe, creating excellent windsurfing conditions that, unlike elsewhere, persist throughout the winter. The bay also has a couple of hot surfing spots. The Maʻalaea Pipeline ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), south of the harbor, freight-trains right and is the fastest surf break in all Hawaii. Summer's southerly swells produce huge tubes here.

Shark Dive MauiDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-270-7000; www.mauioceancenter.com/sharkdive; Maui Ocean Center, 192 Maʻalaea Rd; 2hr experience incl admission to aquarium for diver & viewing guest $200; h8:15am Mon, Wed & Fri)

Shark Dive Maui takes intrepid divers on a daredevil’s plunge into the 750,000-gallon deep-ocean tank at Maui Ocean Center to swim with around 20 sharks, including a black-tip reef shark, a hammerhead and, gasp, a tiger shark.

Da Beach HouseADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-986-8279; ww.dabeachhousemaui.com; Harbor Shops at Ma‘alaea, 300 Ma‘alaea Rd; surfboard rental per day from $30; h10am-6pm)

Rents water-sports equipment and beach chairs. Sells hats, sunblock, towels, swimwear and other beach goods.

THE STORY OF KAHOʻOLAWE

The sacred but uninhabited island of Kahoʻolawe lies 7 miles southwest of Maui. It has long been central to the Hawaiian rights movement, and many consider the island a living spiritual entity, a puʻuhonua (refuge) and wahi pana (sacred place).

Yet for nearly 50 years, from WWII to 1990, the US military used Kahoʻolawe as a bombing range. Beginning in the 1970s, liberating the island from the military became a rallying point for a larger resurgence of Native Hawaiian pride. Today, the bombing has stopped, the navy is gone and healing the island is considered both a symbolic act and a concrete expression of Native Hawaiian sovereignty. For a more detailed historic timeline for the island, visit www.kahoolawe.hawaii.gov.

The island (11 miles long and 6 miles wide) and its surrounding waters are now a reserve that is off-limits to the general public because of the unexploded ordnance. However, Protect KahoʻOlawe ʻOhana (PKO; www.protectkahoolaweohana.org; volunteer fee 4/5 days $150/180) conducts monthly visits to pull weeds, plant native foliage, clean up historic sites and honor the land. It welcomes respectful volunteers who are ready to work (not just sightsee). Visits are scheduled during or near the full moon; the volunteer fee covers food and transportation. You’ll need your own sleeping bag, tent and personal supplies. For more details see the 'Huakaʻi’ section on the PKO website. Note: these trips book up at least two years ahead.

TTours

The tour operators at Maʻalaea Harbor have consolidated reservations at the Maʻalaea Harbor Activities hut, facing Slip 47. Here you can book fishing trips, snorkeling excursions, dinner, cocktail and sunset cruises, and seasonal whale-watching trips. They’re great at comparison shopping.

Pacific Whale FoundationBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-249-8811; www.pacificwhale.org; 300 Maʻalaea Rd, Maʻalaea Harbor Shops; cruises adult/child 7-12yr from $35/20; hschedules vary; c)

Led by naturalists, these boat tours do it right, offering snorkeling lessons and wildlife talks. Snacks are provided and kids under 12 go free on certain cruises. Half-day tours concentrate on Molokini; full-day tours add Lanaʻi. There’s a great variety of tours, including whale-watching, dinner and cocktail cruises and, for the explorer, raft tours to Lanaʻi. Prices vary.

QuicksilverBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-662-0075, 808-442-3267; www.quicksilvermaui.com; Slip 44, Maʻalaea Harbor; adult/child 7-12yr $90/60)

If you want more of a party scene for your day on the water, hop aboard this sleek double-decker catamaran. Once you’re done snorkeling off Molokini, your crew cranks up Jimmy Buffett and serves a barbecue lunch.

5Eating

oMaʻalaea General Store & CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-242-8900; www.maalaeastore.com; 132 Maʻalaea Rd; mains $2-13; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; Wv)

Located in the only original building left from the days when Maʻalaea was a small Japanese fishing village, this friendly general store and cafe offers deli eats, fresh-baked bread, and a rare focus on veggie and gluten-free solutions. Plus giant fudge brownies! The porch is a great place to dive into its signature Reuben while watching the world go by.

Hula Cookies & Ice CreamDESSERTS$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-243-2271; www.hulacookies.com; 300 Ma‘alaea Rd, Ma‘alaea Harbor Shops; cookie $1.50, ice cream $3-6; h10am-6pm)

The freshly baked cookies and Maui-made ice cream here are chock-full of macadamia nuts, pineapple and coconut. A good place to take the kids after visiting the nearby aquarium.

Beach Bums Bar & GrillBARBECUE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-243-2286; www.beachbumshawaii.com; 300 Ma‘alaea Rd, Ma‘alaea Harbor Shops; breakfast $8-13, lunch & dinner $10-26; h8am-9pm)

For harbor views and barbecue, settle in at this lively eatery. Beach Bums uses a wood-burning rotisserie smoker to grill up everything from burgers and ribs to turkey and Spam. Come from 3pm to 6pm for drafts from $2.50, or from 5pm to 8pm Monday to Friday to enjoy live local music.

8Getting There & Away

Maʻalaea has good connections to the rest of Maui’s public bus system. The Maui Bus ($2) connects the Harbor Shops at Maʻalaea with Lahaina, Kahului and Kihei. Service depends on the route, but buses operate hourly from around 6am to 8pm.

GREEN POWER

Windy central Maui is a major league player in the field of alternative energy, with a percentage of Maui’s electricity needs coming from the 50ft high windmills located approximately 2000ft above Maʻalaea on the mountain area known as Kaheawa Pastures. It’s the windmills that hold the greenest future, with 34 of them lining the ridge above Maʻalaea. In addition, Maui has roughly 700 registered electric cars and 117 charging ports. Solar power has also gained momentum on the island, with more than 60,000 homes and businesses installing it since 2001. Looking forward, the plan is to harness geothermal power on Maui by 2040.

Wind turbines | Photo Image/Getty Images ©

Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge

For a quick escape from Central Maui's traffic and urban hustle and bustle, pull over for a stroll at this tranquil refuge.

1Sights & Activities

Kealia Pond National Wildlife RefugeWILDLIFE RESERVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-875-1582; www.fws.gov/refuge/kealia_pond; Mokulele Hwy, 6-mile marker; h7:30am-4pm Mon-Fri)SF

A birdwatcher's oasis, the Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge harbors native waterbirds year-round and hosts migratory ducks and shorebirds from October to April. In the rainy winter months Kealia Pond swells to more than 400 acres, making it one of the largest natural ponds in Hawaii. In summer it shrinks to half the size, giving it a skirt of crystalline salt (Kealia means 'salt-encrusted place').

You can view the pond from the coastal boardwalk on N Kihei Rd, as well as from the refuge's visitor center ( GOOGLE MAP ) off Mokulele Hwy at the 6-mile marker. In both places, you're almost certain to spot wading Hawaiian black-necked stilts, Hawaiian coots and black-crowned night herons – all native water birds that thrive in this sanctuary. The visitor center occupies an abandoned catfish farm with footpaths atop the levees that separate the old fishponds, a layout that allows you to get very close to the birds, and this is also the best place to see wintering osprey, a majestic fish hawk that dive-bombs for its prey in the fishponds.

oKealia Coastal BoardwalkWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fws.gov/refuge/kealia_pond; Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge)

This wonderful elevated boardwalk by Maʻalaea Bay seems to go on forever. It traverses over 2000ft of wetlands, making it a magnet for birders but also a great nature walk for anyone. Interpretive plaques and benches help along the way. In winter you may spot humpback whales. It's located 350yd north of the 2-mile marker on N Kihei Rd.

Puʻunene

Sugar was the lifeblood of Puʻunene until the end of 2016. Fields of cane expanded out from the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar (C&S) Company’s rusty old mill, the last of its kind in Hawaii. This industrial hulk still looms high, and not so long ago it belched smoke when boiling down sugarcane, making the whole area smell of molasses. Hidden nearby are the remains of the plantation village, including an old schoolhouse and a long-abandoned church. This is a great place to grasp what old island life would have been like – it's truly untouched by tourism.

1Sights

Alexander & Baldwin Sugar MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-8058; www.sugarmuseum.com; 3957 Hansen Rd; adult/child 6-12yr $7/2; h9:30am-4.30pm, last entry 4pm)

This homespun museum occupies the former residence of the sugar mill’s superintendent. There’s the usual display of industrial machinery, including a working model of a cane-crushing plant, but what lingers afterward is the human story. One exhibit traces how the sons of missionaries took control of Maui’s fertile valleys and dug the amazing irrigation system that made large-scale plantations viable.

Compelling B&W photographs illuminate the labor and recreational aspects of plantation life. An early-20th-century labor contract on display, from the Japanese Emigration Company, committed laborers to work the cane fields 10 hours a day, 26 days a month, for $15.

7Shopping

Old Puʻunene BookstoreBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %808-871-6563; www.mfol.org; near E Camp 5 Rd; h9am-4pm Tue-Sat)

This shack has served as a used books store since 1913. It’s a bit musty, but the selection is wide and it still sells most of them for a quarter! Pick up secondhand DVDs and CDs here too. All proceeds go to Maui Public Libraries.

Hiking in Central Maui

Follow in the footsteps of missionaries on a high and scrubby trail that's a prime lookout for whale-watching in winter.

Lahaina Pali Trail

• Start Lahaina trailhead
• End Ma‘alaea trailhead
• Length 5 miles one-way; three or more hours
• Difficulty Difficult

This spectacular and challenging route ( GOOGLE MAP ; https://hawaiitrails.ehawaii.gov) was used more than a century ago by missionaries traveling by horse and foot from Lahaina to Wailuku. The old road is now used by able hikers on a pulse-pounding climb up and down rocky pathways, ascending 1600ft above sea level to a 36-turbine wind farm. Mesmerizing views stretch to the north and south coastlines, the central valley, Haleakala volcano and Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge.

The climb is arguably easier than the higgledy-piggledy descent over boulders all shapes and sizes, yet you’ll likely see skilled hill runners hopping down it at speed – sprinting down is only for experts: loose rocks can be treacherous.

Find the Lahaina trailhead on Honoapi‘ilani Hwy after Olowalu Tunnel (if heading towards Lahaina). The first part of the trail from here is shaded, although some of the trees have suffered from brushfires. The pathway quickly becomes arid and exposed – bring sunscreen, a hat and plenty of water and start early before the sun is overhead. Beautiful sweeping views appear almost immediately. Examine the blue ocean hues for whales in winter, and look for petroglyphs and stone walls along the trail, marking the resting spots of ancient travelers. The path winds up the mountain, passing cavernous, moody valleys. Lone trees provide moments of shade. Distractions from the silence include fluttering butterflies, the hum of crickets and an occasional plane on its way to Kahului airport. The blades of the windmills mark the breezy midpoint of the route. On a clear day from this area, known as the Kaheawa Pastures, you can see Molokini islet and Kaho‘olawe to the south, the West Maui mountains to the west and Haleakala to the east. It’s all downhill from here. Phew! Choose to continue, or return the way you’ve come.

You can reach the trailheads on either side of the route by car; there’s parking on the Ukumehame side (just after the tunnel on the right, before Ukumehame Beach Park at the 12-mile marker) and Ma‘alaea side near Maui Demolition on Honoapi‘ilani Hwy. If you plan to complete the entire trail you’ll need two cars, one parked at either end. Alternatively, walk the route again or book a Uber/taxi to your parked car (check car availability before you set off).

Randy Barnes/Getty Images ©