North Shore & Upcountry
North Shore & Upcountry
Why Go?
This wild, lush and sometimes posh region of Maui is home to an extraordinary concentration of variety. In a half-hour drive, you can ascend from the beaches of the North Shore (including the world’s windsurfing capital) through the jungle of the lower slopes, and break out into open Upcountry hills, where cowboys still roam the range, and farmers work the island’s Garden Belt. Communities change accordingly. The hip surfer town of Paʻia gives way to Makawao’s Old West architecture, which dissolves into a handful of stores in mud-on-boots Keokea, after which the road rolls on to eternity – and maybe, we've heard, to Oprah's house.
The region begs for a lazy country drive, taking in athletic surfers, artsy shops, forest trails, mountain views and organic cafes at your own pace. For the adventurous, there’s plenty of ziplining, paragliding and mountain biking.
When to Go
AWeather temperatures are pleasant year-round, hovering in the 70s and 80s Farenheit, with a slight dip in winter.
AIf you love cowboys and parades, plan to visit in early July and catch the Pianolo Parade.
ATo catch the big-wave action at Jaws near Pa‘ia, plan your visit for winter, but note that the biggest surf days vary year to year.
AIf you're traveling with younger kids, schedule a visit for October so you can stop by the pumpkin patch and corn maze at Kula Country Farm.
Best Places to Eat
A Nuka
Best Activities for Kids
AFarm tour, Surfing Goat Dairy
AHorseback riding lessons, Piʻiholo Ranch Stables
AWatching glassblowers, Makai Glass
AOctober pumpkin patch, Kula Country Farms
North Shore Highlights
1 Pa'ia Sunbathing on the wide sandy strand at HA Baldwin Beach Park, and enjoying a bird's-eye view of expert surfers and windboarders riding the waves at Hoʻokipa Beach Park & Overlook.
2 Makawao Forest Reserve Exploring moody forest trails that wind through thick stands of pines and eucalyptus trees.
3 Haliʻimaile General Store Savoring locally sourced cocktails and fusion appetizers during a new happy hour at an old favorite.
4 Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm & Distillery Learning how master distillers create fine spirits then sampling the results of their labors.
5 Kula Shopping for fresh tropical produce at Kula Country Farms and savoring locavore dishes and the expansive view from Kula Lodge Restaurant.
6 Maui Wine Sampling pineapple wine and strolling historic grounds once favored by a Hawaiian king.
Paʻia
An eclectic mix of surfers and soul-seekers cluster in Paʻia, also known as Maui’s hippest burg. Once a thriving plantation town of 10,000 residents, it declined during the 1950s when the local sugar mill closed. Then, like some other well-known sugar towns (eg Hanapepe on Kauaʻi, and Honokaʻa on Hawaiʻi, the Big Island), Paʻia successfully reinvented itself. First came an influx of paradise-seeking hippies attracted by low rents. Next came windsurfers attracted by Hoʻokipa Beach. Then came the tourists.
Today the town’s aging wooden storefronts, splashed in bright colors, house a broad array of indie businesses (for the most part) facing a constant stream of traffic. It still feels like a dusty outpost at times, but that’s all part of the vibe.
rBeaches
Hoʻokipa Beach Park & OverlookBEACH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%808-572-8122; www.mauicounty.gov/facilities; Hana Hwy, mile marker 9; 
h5:30am-7pm; 
p)
Hoʻokipa is to daredevil windsurfers what Everest is to climbers. It reigns supreme as the world’s premier windsurfing beach, with strong currents, dangerous shorebreaks and razor-sharp coral offering the ultimate challenge. This is also one of Maui’s prime surfing spots. While the action in the water is only suitable for pros, a lookout point on the eastern side of the park offers spectators a great bird’s-eye view.
Winter sees the biggest waves for board surfers, while summer has the most consistent winds for windsurfers. To prevent turf battles, surfers typically hit the waves in the morning and windsurfers in the afternoon. In the fall the action includes green sea turtles laying eggs on the beach at dusk. Hoʻokipa is just before the 9-mile marker. With a narrow beach and wild surf, this is not the best choice for a long day of sunbathing and swimming.
HA Baldwin Beach ParkBEACH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-8122; www.co.maui.hi.us/facilities; Hana Hwy; h7am-7pm; 
c)
Bodyboarders and bodysurfers take to the waves at this palm-lined county park about a mile west of Paʻia, at the 6-mile marker. The wide sandy beach drops off quickly, and when the shorebreak is big, swimmers should beware of getting slammed. Calmer waters can be found at the eastern end, where there’s a little cove shaded by ironwood trees. Showers, restrooms, picnic tables and well-used sports fields round out the facilities.
The park has a reputation for rowdy behavior after the sun sets, but it’s fine in the daytime when there’s a lifeguard on duty.
Spreckelsville BeachBEACH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Kealaki Pl; c)
Extending west from HA Baldwin Beach, this 2-mile stretch of sand is a good walking beach. Its near-shore reef makes it less ideal for swimming, but it does provide protection for young kids. If you walk toward the center of the beach, you’ll soon come to a section dubbed 'Baby Beach.’
There are no facilities. At the 5-mile marker, turn toward the ocean on Nonohe Pl, then left on Kealakai Pl just before the Maui Country Club.
Tavares BeachBEACH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Hana Hwy; pc)
For a quiet stretch of sand during the week, try this unmarked beach, which is a short drive northeast from downtown, just beyond mile marker 7. The place livens up on weekends when local families arrive with picnics, guitars, dogs and kids. A submerged lava shelf runs parallel to the beach about 25ft from the shore, shallow enough for swimmers to scrape over. Once you know it’s there, however, the rocks are easy to avoid, so take a look before jumping in.
Pa‘ia
1Sights
5Eating
7Shopping
1Sights & Activities
Maui Dharma CenterBUDDHIST SHRINE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8076; www.mauidharmacenter.com; 81 Baldwin Ave; h6:30am-6:30pm; p)
Marked by its roadside stupa, this Tibetan Buddhist center offers daily, weekly and monthly prayer and meditation sessions, retreats and Dharma talks. Or just take a quick stroll around the stupa’s prayer wheel. The stupa shrine was consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 2007.
Hoʻokipa Beach ParkSURFING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-8122; /www.mauicounty.gov/facilities; Hana Hwy; h7am-7pm)
You'll find good waves year-round, but the breaks here are best for experienced surfers. In winter, the really big waves roll in. There are four surf breaks. Popular and consistent, Pavilions is a right-hander. It's closest to the lookout. Just west is Middles, which breaks left and right. Furthest west in the bay is The Point, which breaks right and is popular with windsurfers, who take over in the afternoon. Just west of the bay is Lanes, which breaks left and right, and requires a longer paddle out.
SimmerWINDSURFING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8484; www.simmerhawaii.com; 99 Hana Hwy; sailboards per day $60; h10am-7pm)
This windsurfing shop sells gear and stylish men's and women's beachwear.
SEVEN-STORY SURFING
The North Shore harbors Maui's most famous big-wave surfing spot: Jaws (Peʻahi; MAP GOOGLE MAP ). When present, the mammoth swell reaches as high as a seven-story building. Surfers are towed in or even dropped by helicopter. Unfortunately for onlookers, there's no legitimate public access to the cliffs above, as the path crosses private land.
TTours
Maui CycleryCYCLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-9009; www.gocyclingmaui.com; 99 Hana Hwy; 1-day rental from $30, 1-day ride $150; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, to noon Sun)
What? A no-attitude bike shop? Yep, the folks at Maui Cyclery make you feel welcome the moment you walk in the door. Credit goes to owner Donnie Arnoult, an experienced cyclist who runs one- to multiday cycling 'experiences' across the island. Consider these trips to be supported training rides, with gorgeous scenery and full service backdropping the adventure. Open to all levels. Rentals available too.
Maui Photography ToursTOURS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.danielsullivanphotography.com; 149 Hana Hwy; 3hr tour $560)
Photography tours with Daniel Sullivan take you to some of the most gorgeous spots on the island, from Hana to the King's Hwy. Sullivan is an acclaimed photographer who has photographed vanishing civilizations around the world. You'll sharpen your skills while capturing some of the island most jaw-dropping scenery. Three- or seven-hour tours available.
You can chat with Sullivan at global-minded Indigo, his rug, photography and clothing shop in Pa'ia,
Maui Easy RidersCYCLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-344-9489; www.mauieasyriders.com; Hana Hwy, HA Baldwin Beach Park; per person $119)
Offers a four-hour guided tour for groups of up to eight on comfy cruisers. Stops include Makawao and Paʻia. Departs 9am and 1:30pm. Meet at Baldwin Beach Park. Save $20 by booking online. Staff can arrange a sunrise viewing followed by the bike ride. Also offers a guided tour of the Road to Hana (from $550; not a bike tour).
5Eating
oMana FoodsBAKERY, MARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8078; www.manafoodsmaui.com; 49 Baldwin Ave; salad bar $8.99/lb, sandwiches under $9; h8am-8:30pm; 
v)
Dreadlocked, Birkenstocked or just needing to stock up – everyone rubs shoulders at Mana, a friendly health-food store, bakery and deli wrapped into one. Once past the unassuming entrance, you’ll find narrow aisles bursting with rare goodies, coffee galore, a fantastic and very busy salad bar, and hot food to go. The mind of Paʻia made visible.
For a smoothie or healthy breakfast bowl, try the market's new Maka by Mana Cafe (www.makabyana.com).
Pa'ia Inn CafeBREAKFAST$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-6000; http://paiainn.com; 93 Hana Hwy; mains $14-17; h8am-1pm)
Watch the chefs whip up your huevos rancheros (rancher’s eggs) at this pleasant new outdoor cafe tucked behind the Pa‘ia Inn. The menu offers a short but appealing mix of breakfast and lunch items, from eggs Benedict to a BLT sandwich with avocado. Pressed juices and smoothies also available. Service can be leisurely, but hey, this is Maui. Where do you have to be?
Toby's Shave IceDESSERTS, SEAFOOD$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-9745; 137 Hana Hwy; small shave ice $5, poke $11-13; h10am-6pm)
Come for the shave ice, stay for the...poke? Oh yeah, the poke (seasoned raw fish) at this low-frills joint is the bomb. And if you like it spicy, try the suicide poke. Smiling devil emoji.
Paʻia Bay CoffeeCAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-3111; www.paiabaycoffee.com; 115 Hana Hwy, enter off Nalu Pl; breakfast $7-12, lunch $8-10; h7am-5:30pm; 
W)
The lovely shaded garden is an inviting sanctuary on a hot day at this low-key coffee shop tucked into a busy downtown side street. Grab croissants to go or settle in at a table for Greek yogurt with berries and granola, organic scrambled eggs with goat cheese, or a smoked salmon and avocado sandwich. A local hot spot in the morning.
Note: if you're not a local, you will be checked out. Not a bad thing necessarily, just depends on your mood.
Kuau StoreDELI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8844; www.kuaustore.com; 701 Hana Hwy; sandwiches under $9; h6:30am-7pm)
Fuel up with coffee or a healthy juice before a drive on the Hana Hwy. Sandwiches are also available to go at this general store and deli. Look for the photogenic surfboard fence about 1 mile east of downtown Pa‘ia.
Café des AmisCAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-6323; www.cdamaui.com; 42 Baldwin Ave; breakfast $6-14, lunch & dinner $4-22; h8:30am-8:30pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat)
Grab a seat in the courtyard at this often-recommended eatery to dine on sweet or savory crepes and a variety of curries. You’ll also find vegetarian offerings, creative breakfasts and a tempting array of drinks, from fruit smoothies to fine wines. Note that the wraps may overpower the flavor of the fillings, and that service can be leisurely.
Paia GelatoDESSERTS$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-9201; www.paiagelato.com; 115 Hana Hwy; cones $5; h7am-10pm)
Dishes up 24 different flavors of Maui-made gelato. The Sandy Beach is mixed with graham crackers and peanut butter.
Paʻia Fish Market RestaurantSEAFOOD$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8030; www.paiafishmarket.com; 110 Hana Hwy, cnr Baldwin Ave; mains $10-21; h11am-9:30pm; c)
The communal picnic tables are perpetually packed inside this long-time favorite, where the fish is always fresh, tasty and affordable. The local favorite is ono fish and chips, but the menu includes plenty of other temptations, including charbroiled mahi, Cajun-style snapper, and a Hawaii classic, blackened ahi sashimi. As for those crowded picnic tables, they turn over quickly. Children's menu mains under $6.
Flatbread CompanyPIZZA$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8989; www.flatbreadcompany.com; 89 Hana Hwy; pizzas $13-24; h11am-10pm)
S
Wood-fired pizzas made with organic sauces, nitrate-free pepperoni, Maui pineapples – you’ll never stop at a chain pizza house again. Fun combinations abound, from pure vegan to kalua pork with goat cheese. Don't want a pizza? Many of those toppings are available in organic salads.
oMama’s Fish HouseSEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8488; www.mamasfishhouse.com; 799 Poho Pl; mains $32-68; h11am-9pm)
Mama’s is a South Seas dream: superb food, top-notch service and a gorgeous seaside setting. The fish is literally fresh off the boat ‒ staff can even tell you who caught it. The eclectic building successfully integrates everything from driftwood to sugarcane machinery. When the beachside tiki torches are lit at dinnertime, you’ll swear you’ve entered a poster from South Pacific.
The only drawback is the eye-popping prices, which match the island’s most expensive resorts. Yet no one seems to care. This is a magnet for honeymooners, or for anyone looking for that once-in-a-lifetime Hawaii experience. Located on Hana Hwy, 1.5 miles east of Paʻia town. Reservations essential; holidays book out three months ahead.
Cycling Upcountry to North Shore
Haleakalā to Pa'ia
- Start: Haleakalā Summit
- End: Pa'ia
- Length: 34 miles; half-day
Cycling from the summit of Haleakalā down to seaside Paʻia has become an island rite of passage. The 34-mile journey, a 10,000ft drop in elevation, offers tremendous views, a thrilling ride and Upcountry sightseeing, including Makawao. It's also easy – the bikes only have one gear – although you have to be careful to keep your speed down around seriously steep corners (there have been accidents and even deaths).
Guided tours are no longer allowed to begin their trips inside the park. This prohibition does not apply to regular visitors. If riding without a group, you will need to arrange a drop-off or pick-up. Remember that most visitors leave soon after sunrise, so traffic is heaviest early in the morning.
You'll first pass the Haleakalā Visitor Center, where you can use the restrooms, grab a park map and replenish your water. Next up is the Kalahaku Overlook, which is worth a stop for its lofty view of the crater. From here, the switchbacks really kick-in. For more water, stop at the Park Headquarters Visitor Center (
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-4459; www.nps.gov/hale; Hana Hwy, Summit District, Haleakalā National Park; h8am-3:45pm) before leaving the park.
Guided bicycle tours begin just downhill from the park entrance, with different companies gathering at separate pull-offs. From the straight stretch of pavement ahead, take your pick of pull-off spots for a photograph. The view of the Maui isthmus, tucked between two coasts and flanked by the West Maui Mountains, is stunning.
Switchbacks tighten as you ride down the green slopes of the volcano. Turn right onto Hwy 377, passing Kula Lodge (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-1535; www.kulalodge.com; 15200 Haleakalā Hwy; cabins $180-255; W) and Marketplace on your left. At the Makawao/Olinda sign turn right onto Kealaloa Rd. Continue to Hanamu Rd until it ends at the Oskie Rice Arena (
GOOGLE MAP
). Turn left and twist down Olinda Rd until you reach the cowboy town of Makawao. Cross Makawao Ave. Continue on Baldwin Ave, which passes several galleries and indie shops.
The scenery opens up as you drop, with sugarcane fields, churches and schools lining the route. As you enter Pa'ia, it's time to start thinking about lunch – you have plenty of options.
You can rent bikes at Maui Cyclery, or join a tour with Maui Easy Riders or Haleakalā Bike Co. The latter also rents bikes.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Charley’sBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8085; www.charleysmaui.com; 142 Hana Hwy; h7am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Paʻia’s legendary saloon has been slingin’ suds and pub grub since 1969. In its heyday it was a magnet for visiting rock stars, who were known to take to the stage. While that scene has moved on (OK, there’s a slim chance part-time resident Willie Nelson will pop in), this is still the town’s main music venue.
It has dinner music Tuesday to Thursday, DJs and bands Friday and Saturday, and open mic night Monday. Check the website for the schedule. Willie's son Lukas and his band Promise of the Real played here in 2016.
Milagros Food CompanyBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8755; www.milagrosfoodcompany.com; 3 Baldwin Ave; h11am-10pm)
With sidewalk tables perched on Paʻia’s busiest corner, an island-style Tex-Mex menu (mains $10 to $16) and a variety of margaritas, this bar-restaurant is the perfect spot for a late-afternoon pit stop. Happy hour is from 3pm to 6pm, with $4 house margaritas.
7Shopping
oIndigoARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-9199; www.indigopaia.com; 149 Hana Hwy; h10am-6pm)
Step into this inviting boutique for a shopping trip through Central and Southwest Asia. The gorgeous handcrafted rugs, one-of-a-kind furnishings and traditional crafts were collected by the owners, Daniel Sullivan and Caramiya Davies-Reid. Sullivan also sells vibrant photographs taken during his travels, while Davies-Reid designs breezy dresses and custom bathing suits.
Check out Sullivan's brilliant photos from a hike around the island on the King's Hwy in his book The Maui Coast: The Legacy of the King's Highway.
oMaui Crafts GuildARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-9697; www.mauicraftsguild.com; 120 Hana Hwy; h10am-6pm)
Perched on the corner of the Hana Hwy and Baldwin Ave, this longstanding artists' co-op sells everything from pottery and jewelry to hand-painted silks and natural-fiber baskets at reasonable prices. All artists must be full-time Maui residents.
Aliʻi Kula Lavender ‒ PaʻiaGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8060; www.aliikulalavender.com; 115 Hana Hwy; h8am-6pm)
Pop into this tiny shop for lotions and other lavender-infused products from the farm up the road in Kula.
Wings HawaiiCLOTHING, JEWELRY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-3110; www.wingshawaii.com; 69 Hana Hwy; h10am-8pm)
For truly unique clothing and jewelry – they call it beach boho chic – stop by this small shop that sells locally designed womenswear.
Alice in HulalandGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-9922; www.aliceinhulaland.com; 19 Baldwin Ave; h10am-6pm)
Kitschy but fun souvenirs and Hawaiiana, plus trendy fashions.
8Information
Bank of HawaiiBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-9511; www.boh.com; 35 Baldwin Ave; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri)
Post OfficePOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-579-8866; www.usps.com; 120 Baldwin Ave; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-12:30pm Sat)
8Getting There & Around
Pa‘ia is 6.5 miles from the Kahului Airport. The Maui Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ; Hana Hwy, east of Bypass Rd) operates the Haʻiku Islander between the airport and Paʻia ($2) every 90 minutes from 5:40am to 8:40pm. The bus stop is located on the Hana Hwy beside the city parking lot on the right as you enter town, just beyond the Pa‘ia Bypass Rd.
CROSSTOWN TRAFFIC
For a surfer town bursting with healthy bodies, Paʻia sure has some clogged arteries. Roads, that is. If you’re heading Upcountry from Kahului, avoid the main intersection at Baldwin Ave by taking the bypass. If you’re staying awhile, head for the town lot first, as parking is a problem. And if you’re heading on to Hana, check your gas gauge: Paʻia has the last filling station on the highway, and Hana’s has been known to run dry.
Haʻiku
Haʻiku is a lot like old Paʻia, before tourism took hold. Both have their roots in sugarcane – Maui’s first 12 acres of the sweet stuff were planted in Haʻiku in 1869, and the village once had both a sugar mill and pineapple canneries. Thanks to its affordability and proximity to Hoʻokipa Beach, it’s also a haunt of pro surfers, who’ve helped rejuvenate the town.
Nestled in greenery, this is a low-key place to stay, with many excellent accommodations and restaurants for its size. To get an early start on the Road To Hana, consider spending the night here.
2Activities
Kalakupua PlaygroundPARK
(Fourth Marine Division Memorial Park;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-8122; www.mauicounty.gov; Kokomo Rd, mile marker 2; h8am-7pm; c)
Known as 'Giggle Hill,' the jungle gym and playground – complete with turrets, boardwalks and slides – is great for kids. The 40-acre park here also has playing fields and covered picnic pavilions. The park was the site of a marine training ground and camp during World War II.
Haleakalā Bike CoCYCLING
(Bike Maui;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-575-9575; www.bikemaui.com; 810 Haʻiku Rd, Haʻiku Marketplace; sunrise bike tour $135)
Want to watch the sunrise then bike down the volcano at your own pace? Then book the Sunrise Special. After an early-morning van ride to the summit, followed by the sunrise, you'll be dropped off just outside the park with a bike, helmet, backpack, rain gear and a map. From there it's 23 twisty miles down to Haʻiku. Be back by 4pm. Check-in is 3am.
Not an early riser? Try the Summit Deluxe Trip. After a 9am check-in, this trip climbs to the summit of the volcano for a guided tour, which is followed by a self-guided downhill ride ($105 per person).
Also rents bikes ($40 to $55 per day) if you want to tackle roads and trails in and around the park on your own. Rental includes a bike rack and its installation.
5Eating
Baked on MauiBAKERY, CAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 375 W Kuiaha, Paʻuwela Cannery; breakfast $9-10, lunch $8-10; h6:30am-5pm)
Delicious homemade food, including fresh baked bread, a full breakfast menu and great sandwiches, makes this the local stop prior to tackling the Road to Hana. From Paʻia turn right on West Kuiaha and continue on until you reach the huge Paʻuwela Cannery building, now business space.
Veg OutVEGETARIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-575-5320; www.veg-out.com; 810 Kokomo Rd, Haʻiku Town Center; mains $7-10, 12in pizza $10-18; h10:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 11:30am-7:30pm Sat & Sun; v)
Tucked inside a former warehouse, this rasta-casual vegetarian eatery serves up a dynamite burrito loaded with beans, hot tofu and jalapeños. Also right on the mark are the taro cheeseburgers and pesto-chèvre pizzas.
Sala DangTHAI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-463-4166; 824 Kokomo Rd; mains $13-24; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat)
Tuk Tuk Thai closed up its popular food truck and moved across the street to a cottage. And it looks like the crowds have followed. Now known as Sala Dang, and serving noodle, curry and stir fry dishes, this cozy joint is hoppin'.
Haʻiku Grocery StoreSUPERMARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-575-9291; 810 Haʻiku Rd, Haʻiku Marketplace; h6am-9pm)
Now owned by Foodland, this market sells bento boxes and hot food in addition to the usual groceries.
oNukaJAPANESE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-575-2939; www.nukamaui.com; 780 Haʻiku Rd; lunch $5-12, dinner small plates $4-22, mains $12-20, rolls $9-19; h10am-1:30pm & 4:30-10pm Mon-Fri)
One of Maui’s best dining options marries a traditional Japanese restaurant with a jazzy cafe, offering the classics, such as sushi and tempura, alongside exotic rolls and otsumami (tapas). From the menus to the decor to the website, everything is presented with sophistication, and without inflated prices. And oh, that Nuka Roll. Now open for lunch serving noodles, burgers and an acai bowl.
No reservations. There may be a line by 6:15pm.
Colleen’sAMERICAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-575-9211; www.colleensinhaiku.com; 810 Haʻiku Rd, Haʻiku Marketplace; breakfast $7-13, lunch $6-16, dinner $11-30; h6am-10pm)S
From morning to evening, this boisterous bistro is the Haʻiku hangout, for locals and visitors alike. Menu choices are straightforward – burgers, salads and build-your-own pizzas among them – but cooked to perfection, and supported by a wide range of craft beers. Excellent coffee and big breakfasts drag 'em in early.
Looking for greens and protein? Try the roasted beet salad with goat cheese and grilled chicken. Delicious!
6Drinking & Nightlife
Maui KombuchaTEAHOUSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-575-5233; www.mauikombucha.com; 810 Haʻiku Rd, Haʻiku Marketplace; 12oz tea $5, mains $7-13; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)S
Welcome to 'The Booch,’ home of Haʻiku’s alternative drink, kombucha. This hip hole-in-the-wall overflows with fermented tea (with bubbles!) and a lively crowd. Also serves chai tea and cold-pressed coffee. The veggie fare changes daily, but expect wraps, salads and lots of fun. Faces Kokomo Rd in the Haʻiku Marketplace.
Haliʻimaile
The tiny pineapple town of Haliʻimaile is jumping these days. Named for the sweet-scented maile plants – used in lei-making – that covered the area before pineapples took over, the community recently welcomed a new micro-distillery and a new glass-blowing studio. Both are housed in Quonset huts across the road from the old general store (c 1918), which has been transformed into one of Maui's top restaurants. This bustling collection of businesses is the heart of the community.
TTours
Haliʻimaile Distilling CompanyFOOD & DRINK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-633-3609; www.haliimailedistilling.com; 883 Haliʻimaile Rd; $10; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri)
The whiskey casks are emblazoned with paniolo (Hawaii cowboy) mustaches at this new micro-distillery, where tours end with samples of three 'luxury' spirits, all infused with local ingredients. Production is overseen by master distiller Mark Nigbur, who built the glass stills you'll see on the tour.
Be sure to sample the flagship Pau Vodka. Distilled from Maui pineapples, it's clean and pure with just a hint of sweetness.
The company also produces Sammy's Beach Bar Rum, a joint venture with Van Halen frontman Sammy Hagar. Hagar is a part-time Maui resident – and a Mark Nigbur doppleganger. There are tours every 30 minutes. Best to reserve ahead.
5Eating
oHaliʻimaile General StoreHAWAIIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-2666; www.bevgannonrestaurants.com; 900 Haliʻimaile Rd; lunch $14-26, dinner $32-44; h11am-2:30pm & 3-5:30pm Mon-Fri, plus 5:30-9pm daily; v)
The culinary sorceress behind this destination dining spot is chef Bev Gannon, who was one of the original forces behind the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement. A steady flow of in-the-know diners beat a track to this inviting outpost – the building was a general store during the plantation era – to feast on her fusion creations, such as crab-topped pizza and Asian pear duck tostadas.
With appetizers under $11 and cocktail specials, the recently introduced happy hour is drawing crowds. The happy-hour tacos are muy bueno (very good).
7Shopping
Makai GlassARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-269-8255; www.makaiglass.com; 903 Haliʻimaile Rd; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Walk up to the 2nd-floor viewing area of this spacious gallery, inside a large Quonset hut, to watch glassblowers at work in the studio below. How they craft the glass into fantastic sculptures seems just short of magic. The honu (green sea turtles) are especially cool. It's a nice place to browse and hangout before the distillery tour next door.
Makawao
Dubbed Maka Wow on local T-shirts, this attractive town is a mélange of art haven and paniolo (Hawaii cowboy) culture, with a twist of New Age sensibility. A ranching town since the 1800s, its false-front buildings and hitching posts look transported from the Old West. Today the surrounding hills still contain cattle pastures and ranches, but also expensive homes, as these cool and quiet uplands have become a choice residential area. Meanwhile, the town below has filled with attractive galleries and cafes. The main action is at the intersection of Baldwin Ave and Makawao Ave, where you can enjoy browsing, a fine meal and a bit of nightlife.
Makawao
1Sights
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
Sacred Garden of MalikoGARDENS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-573-7700; www.sacredgardenmaui.com; 460 Kaluanui Rd; h10am-5pm; p)
F
Need a meditative moment? The nonprofit Sacred Garden of Maliko, a self-described healing sanctuary, has a pair of rock-garden labyrinth walks guaranteed to reset the harmony gauge. One’s in an orchid greenhouse; the other’s in a kukui (candlenut tree) grove beside Maliko Stream. It’s a peaceful place, with sitting areas, to relax. Also sells plants and gifts, with complimentary tea and hot chocolate.
Hui Noʻeau Visual Arts CenterARTS CENTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-6560; www.huinoeau.com; 2841 Baldwin Ave; h9am-4pm; p)F
Occupying the former estate of sugar magnates Harry and Ethel Baldwin, Hui Noʻeau is a regal setting for a community arts center. In 1917 famed architect CW Dickey designed the main plantation house, which showcases the Hawaiian Regional architectural style he pioneered. You can visit the galleries, which exhibit island artists, and stroll the grounds, where you’ll find stables converted into art studios.
The gift shop sells quality ceramics, glassware and prints created on site. At the front desk, pick up a brochure with a map and list of things to do. A fantastic coffee truck parks here in the morning. The center is just north of the 5-mile marker.
Makawao History MuseumMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-2482; 3643 Baldwin Ave; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)F
Step into this tiny museum for an overview of the town's cowboy past, with lots of ranching tools on display plus black-and-white photos of the town and its former inhabitants. There's also a display exploring the town's multicultural roots. You can pick up a historic Makawao walking tour map here too ($1).
WORTH A TRIP
VIEWS AND VERTIGO
For a steep scenic drive with plenty of twists and turns, head into the hills above Makawao along Olinda Rd, which picks up in town where Baldwin Ave leaves off. Turn left onto Piʻiholo Rd near the top, and wind back down into town. The whole crazy loop takes about half an hour. Combine with Waihou Spring Trail ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://hawaiitrails.org; Olinda Rd) for a cool midway break.
2Activities
Makawao Forest Reserve TrailsHIKING, MOUNTAIN BIKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mauimountainbike.org; Kahakapau Rd, Makawao Forest Reserve; h7am-7pm)
Walking into the thick and towering trees at this 2093-acre reserve feels like an journey into a fantasy novel. This magical place, which still feels undiscovered, is crisscrossed by trails open to hikers and mountain bikers. The 5.75-mile multiuse Kahakapao Loop Trail is the primary trail. It parallels a ravine before arcing back through cool upland forest. Trails are very slick when wet.
If dry, these volcanic clay trails are also great for running. You will pass two small pump tracks a short distance from the trailhead. The trails are a joint effort between state agencies and the Maui Mountain Bike Coalition. At press time, trail maps and visitor information had not been added to state-run recreational websites. For a helpful map showing the various trails and their uses, visit www.mauimountainbike.org/kahakapao-recreation-area. Rent bikes in Pa‘ia.
To reach Kahakapao Rd, head up Pi‘iholo Rd for 1.5 miles, turn left on Waiahiwi Rd and turn right after 0.4 miles. Continue to the reserve.
Piʻiholo Ranch StablesHORSEBACK RIDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-270-8750; www.piiholo.com; 325 Waiahiwi Rd; per person Cowboy for a Day $349, 2/3hr rides $229/349; hMon-Sat; c)
Want to round-up cattle like a paniolo? Then giddyup for the Cowboy for a Day experience. In a secluded glen, high up on the edge of a rainforest, this family-run cattle ranch, now six generations old, also offers two- and three-hour group horseback rides for up to six people with mountain, valley and pasture views galore. All rides are private.
Piʻiholo Ranch ZiplineADVENTURE SPORTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-1717; www.piiholozipline.com; 799 Piʻiholo Rd; zip tours $99-180, canopy tours $99; htours 8am-3pm, reservations 7am-7pm; c)
This operation offers two options: a standard dual-line course of four/five lines, the latter with a 2800ft finale that hits 600ft in altitude, and a six/seven-line canopy course. You can bring your own GoPro cam to mount on your helmet, but bring your own head straps. The Hike & Zip combo ($219) includes a waterfall hike on the Hana Hwy.
TTours
808 Off the GridOUTDOORS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-495-7560; www.808offthegrid.com; 325 Waiahiwi Rd; 2/3hr tour $250/330; htours 8am and 11am Mon-Sat)
Hop into a rugged all-terrain vehicle for a tour of the vast ranch lands surrounding Piʻiholo Ranch. The trip bounces over green pastures with expansive views of the coast and the West Maui mountains, and stops by private pools and waterfalls on the property.
zFestivals & Events
Makawao Third FridayFAIR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mauifridays.com; Baldwin Ave; h6-9pm 3rd Fri monthly; c)
On the third Friday of every month the center of Makawao turns into a pedestrian zone and laid-back street party from 6pm to 9pm, with food, arts and crafts and live music.
Maui Polo ClubSPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mauipoloclub.com; Olinda Rd/Haleakalā Hwy; adult/child under 12yr $10/free; h1:30pm, gates open 12:30pm; c)
A friendly tailgating party surrounds these Sunday matches held behind Oskie Rice Arena, 1 mile above town on Olinda Rd, early September through mid-November; and at the Manduke Baldwin Polo Arena, 1.7 miles up Haleakalā Highway from Makawao Ave, from early April 3 to late June. Dress is casual to island dressy (ie your best aloha shirt).
5Eating
Market Fresh BistroINTERNATIONAL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-4877; marketfreshbistro.com; 3620 Baldwin Ave; breakfast $12-20, lunch $9-16; h9-11am & 11:30am-3pm Tue-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun, 6-8:30pm Thu)
Foodies love the sophisticated tastes at this relaxing farm-to-table cafe, whose philosophy of 'global influence, local ingredients’ has rapidly made it one of Makawao’s best dining options. Insiders descend here Thursday evenings at 6pm for a special prix-fixe dinner ($75), but call ahead to make sure it's on and make a reservation. Located inside the Shops at the Courtyard.
Komoda Store & BakeryBAKERY$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 3674 Baldwin Ave; h7am-4pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, to 2pm Sat)
Celebrating its 100th birthday in 2016, this homespun bakery, legendary for its mouthwatering cream puffs, stick doughnuts and guava-filled malasadas (Portuguese fried doughnuts), is a Makawao landmark. Arrive early, as it often sells out by noon.
Rodeo General StoreDELI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-1868; 3661 Baldwin Ave; mains $7-9; h6:30am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat)
The deli counter at this busy general store sells a variety of to-go meals, from salads and sandwiches to Hawaiian poke and plate lunches.The kalua pork is tender and oh-so tasty. Everything is made from scratch. Also sells beer and liquor.
Makawao Garden CaféCAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-573-9065; 3669 Baldwin Ave; mains under $9; h11am-3pm Mon-Sat)
On a sunny day there’s no better place in town for lunch than this outdoor cafe tucked into a courtyard at the northern end of Baldwin Ave. It’s strictly sandwiches and salads, but everything’s fresh, generous and made to order by the owner herself.
Casanova Italian RestaurantITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-0220; www.casanovamaui.com; 1188 Makawao Ave; lunch $9-20, dinner $14-44; h11:30am-2pm Mon-Sat, plus 5:30-9:30pm daily)
Classic Italian dishes. Juicy Maui-raised steaks. Innovative pizzas cooked in a kiawe-fired oven. It's hard to go wrong at this long-time Upcountry favorite. Casanova doubles as an entertainment venue, with a happening dance floor and DJs or live music on Wednesdays and weekends (10pm to 1am). Wednesday night is Ladies Night, when women get in free.
For a casual lunch, try one of the hearty sandwiches at the attached deli (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-0220; www.casanovamaui.com; 1188 Makawao Ave; mains $7-9; h7:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat).
Polli’sMEXICAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-7808; www.pollismexicanrestaurant.com; 1202 Makawao Ave; most mains $13-24, tacos $5; h11am-10pm)
Parked on the corner of Baldwin Ave and Makawao Ave, this friendly and reliable Tex-Mex restaurant is a longtime favorite. Have a cerveza at the small bar, or tackle sizzling fajitas in the nearby booths. Four children's plates available for $5 each. Margaritas are $4 during happy hour (4pm to 5:30pm Monday to Friday).
Makawao Steak HouseSTEAK$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-8711; www.cafeoleirestaurants.com; 3612 Baldwin Ave; mains $14-34; hrestaurant 5-9pm Tue-Sun, bar from 4:30pm Tue-Sun; c)
What’s a cowboy town without a steak house? Or a saloon? You get both here, along with a warm Upcountry atmosphere. Dining solo? Grab a seat at the welcoming bar. Owned by the Cafe O'Lei franchise, the varied menu offers something for everyone, including the kids. Five mains for $6 each on the children's menu.
6Drinking
Gypsy Maui Coffee TruckCOFFEE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-298-3320; www.facebook.com/gypsymaui; 2841 Baldwin Ave, Hui Noʻeau Visual Arts Center; h8am-noon Mon-Fri)
Fans of Bulletproof coffee will find a new favorite after sipping the Gypsy ($5), a creamy blend of espresso, coconut oil and buffalo butter. Served from a food truck on the front lawn of Hui Noʻeau Visual Arts Center, the other specialty coffees here are also superb. Tasty snacks ($4 to $7) such as avocado toast, plus the gorgeous backdrop, make this a perfect pit stop.
Sip Me!COFFEE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-573-2340; www.sipmemaui.com; 3617 Baldwin Ave; h6am-5pm Mon-Sat, 7am-4pm Sun; W)
Who's settling in to this chic-but-inviting new spot for cold-brew toddies, cold-pressed juices and smoothies sourced with local produce? Yoga lads and ladies, hipsters in cowboy hats and the occasional mom-and-daughter team. All here for caffeine, conversation and the wi-fi. The pastry counter is loaded with croissants, cinnamon rolls and quiches, plus gluten-free treats. Sit inside or on the patio.
It's a bit of a scene, but we like it. And the 12oz coffee is $1.50. Nice!
7Shopping
oWertheim ContemporaryART
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-573-5972; www.wertheimcontemporary.com; 3660 Baldwin Ave; h11am-5pm)
Showcases the extraordinary art of Andreas Nottebohm, who etches flat sheets of aluminum to create an illusion of depth. You won't believe your eyes. Also shows works by local, national and globally known artists.
Maui HandsART
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-2008; www.mauihands.com; 1169 Makawao Ave; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)
A fascinating collection of high-quality Hawaii art, primarily from Maui, including photography, koa, ceramics, photographs and a mix of traditional and contemporary paintings. Worth a stop.
Volcano SpiceFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-7729; www.volcanospicecompany.com; 3621 Baldwin Ave; h11am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
An enticing array of spicy rubs and hot sauces are sold in this tiny shop on Baldwin Ave. If you're a hot-sauce fiend, there are plenty to sample – just bring some water!
Viewpoints GalleryART
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-5979; www.viewpointsgallerymaui.com; 3620 Baldwin Ave; h10:30am-5pm)
This classy gallery hosts more than three dozen of the island’s finest artists, and feels like a welcoming museum.
Designing Wahine EmporiumGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-573-0990; www.designingwahine.com; 3640 Baldwin Ave; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
Decorative pillows, jewelry, children's clothing, Maka Wow tanks, quality gifts and much else fill this classic plantation cottage.
8Information
Post OfficePOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-0019; www.usps.com; 1075 Makawao Ave; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat)S
8Getting Around
Minit StopGAS STATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-573-9295; www.minitstop.com; 1100 Makawao Ave; h5am-11pm)
There’s no bank in town, but this convenience store has gas and an ATM. It also serves legendary fried chicken: your budget lunch.
Pukalani & Around
True to its name, which means Heavenly Gate, Pukalani is the gateway to the lush Upcountry. Most visitors just drive past Pukalani on the way to Kula and Haleakalā, unless they need food or gas (the last before the park). The big draw? The Saturday-morning Upcountry farmers market – the selection is amazing.
To reach the business part of town, get off Haleakalā Hwy (Hwy 37) at the Old Haleakalā Hwy exit, which becomes Pukalani’s main street.
2Activities
Pukalani Country ClubGOLF
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-1314; www.pukalanigolf.com; 360 Pukalani St; greens fees with cart $63, with clubs $81; h7am-dusk)
With its clubhouse in a mobile home, the Pukalani Golf Club doesn’t present a pretty face, but the course is in excellent condition and one of the best deals on the island. Come after 2:30pm and golf the rest of the day for just $35 – cart included. Small clubhouse cafe onsite.
TTours
oHawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm & DistilleryDISTILLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-877-0009; www.hawaiiseaspirits.com; 4051 Omaʻopio Rd; adult/child & youth under 21yr $10/free; htours 9:30am-4pm)
From the sugarcane stalks to the bottling room to the end-of-tour tasting, the 45-minute guided tour at this family-run vodka and rum distillery tells an interesting story about the organic ethos of the company. Ocean Vodka, the flagship vodka, is made with deep-ocean mineral water sourced off the coast of Hawaiʻi (Big Island). Tastings are outdoors beside the sugarcane.
Surfing Goat DairyFOOD & DRINK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-2870; www.surfinggoatdairy.com; 3651 Omaʻopio Rd; hstore 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; c)
‘Da' fetta mo betta’ is the motto at at this 42-acre farm, the source of all that luscious chèvre adorning the menus of Maui’s top restaurants. There’s a well-stocked store and various child-friendly ‘ag tours' are offered. Free samples of cheese are provided to all visitors. Feel free to bring wine, order some cheese and enjoy the view at the outdoor seating area.
5Eating
oUpcountry Farmers MarketMARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.upcountryfarmersmarket.com; 55 Kiopaa St; h7-11am Sat)
It's a rainbow of color at this happening farmers market: yellow apple-bananas, orange carrots, green broccoli, red strawberries. Plus starfruit, avocados, honey – if its edible and it grows on Maui, it's here. Several dozen local farmers – and a food truck or two – share fruit, vegetables and locally prepared fare in the parking lot just beyond Longs Drugs at the Kulamalu Shopping Center.
This place is rockin' by 8:30am – get here early for the best selection. Lots of free samples too.
Farmacy Health Bar & Grill ‒ PukalaniHEALTH FOOD$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-868-0443; www.facebook.com/Farmacyhealthbarpukalani; 55 Pukalani St; salads & sandiwiches $10-11, acai bowls $6-15; h8am-5:30pm)S
Craving a healthy lunch? Pop into Farmacy for a juice, smoothie or acai bowl – all fruit-loaded and fresh. A spin-off of the Farmacy in Wailuku, this place blends health and great taste with a bit of artistic flair. Plenty of good veggie-filled sandwiches too. Order at the counter and grab a seat on the sidewalk patio.
Pukalani SuperetteSUPERMARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-7616; www.pukalanisuperette.com; 15 Makawao Ave; prepared meals $3-10; h5:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 6:30am-9pm Sat, 7am-8pm Sun)
A popular choice for prepared hot meals – kalua pork, chili chicken, Spam musubi etc.
FoodlandSUPERMARKET$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.foodland.com; 55 Pukalani St, cnr Old Haleakalā Hwy & Pukalani St; h24hr)
Located in the Pukalani Terrace Center, just off the highway, this always-open supermarket is a convenient pit stop for people heading up and down the mountain.
8Information
Bank of HawaiiBANK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-7242; www.boh.com; 55 Pukalani St, cnr Old Haleakalā Hwy, Pukalani Terrace Center; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri)
The last bank and ATM before reaching Kula and Haleakalā National Park.
Kula
It’s cooler in Kula – refreshingly so. Think of this Upcountry heartland as one big garden, and you won’t be far off. So bountiful is Kula’s volcanic soil, it produces most of the onions, lettuce and strawberries grown in Hawaii and almost all of the commercially grown protea. The latest addition, sweet-scented lavender, is finding its niche, too. The magic is in the elevation. At 3000ft, Kula’s cool nights and sunny days are ideal for growing all sorts of crops – making Kula synonymous with fresh veggies on any Maui menu.
1Sights
oWorcester GlassworksGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-4000; www.worcesterglassworks.com; 4626 Lower Kula Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
This family-run working studio and gallery produces some amazing pieces, particularly the sand-blasted glass in natural forms (eg seashells). Visitors are welcome to watch the artists and their solar-powered furnaces at work. The adjacent store offers gorgeous pieces for sale. Call ahead to confirm it's open. Look for the small sign at the house just south of Kula Bistro. It's very welcoming.
Aliʻi Kula LavenderGARDENS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-3004; www.aklmaui.com; 1100 Waipoli Rd; $3; h9am-4pm)
Perched on a broad hillside with panoramic views of the West Maui Mountains and the central Maui coast, this charming lavender farm is a scenic place to relax. Distractions include fragrant pathways, a gift shop with lavender products, and a lanai with sweeping views where you can enjoy a scone and a cup of lavender tea.
Kula Botanical GardenGARDENS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-1715; www.kulabotanticalgarden.com; 638 Kekaulike Ave; adult/child 6-10yr $10/3; h9am-4pm)S
Walking paths wind through themed plantings, including native Hawaiian specimens and a ‘taboo garden’ of poisonous plants. Because a stream runs through it, the garden supports water-thirsty plants that you won’t find in other Kula gardens. After a rain the whole place is an explosion of color.
Holy Ghost ChurchCHURCH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-1261; www.kulacatholiccommunity.org; 4300 Lower Kula Rd; h8am-6pm)
Waiakoa’s hillside landmark, the octagonal Holy Ghost Church, was built in 1895 by Portuguese immigrants. The church features a beautifully ornate interior that looks like it came right out of the Old World, as indeed much of it did. The gilded altar was carved by renowned Austrian woodcarver Ferdinand Stuflesser and shipped in pieces around the Cape of Good Hope.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
POLIPOLI SPRING STATE RECREATION AREA
On the upper slopes of Haleakalā, the remote and heavily forested Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area is the place for solitary hiking. Check the park website or call before you make the drive. Trails and facilities are often closed due to weather damage, with downed trees and flash-flood damage often affecting the trails. The park sits at 6200ft so it can get chilly at night.
2Activities
Proflyght ParaglidingPARAGLIDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-874-5433; www.paraglidemaui.com; Waipoli Rd; paraglide 1000ft $115, 3000ft $225; hoffice 7am-7pm, flights 2hr after sunrise)
Strap into a tandem paraglider with a certified instructor and take a running leap off the cliffs beneath Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area. The term ‘bird’s-eye view’ will never be the same. Must be at least eight years old and under 230lb.
Want to watch the gliders and their colorful chutes float on the breeze? Drive up Waipoli Rd just beyond Aliʻi Kula Lavender in the morning, pull over and look up. Gorgeous!
Skyline Eco-AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-8400; www.zipline.com; 18303 Haleakalā Hwy; zipline tour adult/child under 18yr $120/60; h8:30am-2pm)
Maui’s first zipline has a prime location on the slopes of Haleakalā. The five lines are relatively short (100ft to 850ft) compared with the competition, although a unique ‘pendulum zip’ adds some spice. Good for newbies. Feeling really adventurous? Try its new Haleakalā Hike & Bike tour ($250). It includes a summit sunrise, biking down the volcano then ziplining. Up at 2am!
TTours
Oʻo FarmFOOD & DRINK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-667-4341; www.oofarm.com; 651 Waipoli Rd; tours $58; hfarm tour 10:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, coffee tour 8:30-10:30am Wed & Thu)
Whether a gardener or a gourmet, you’re going to love a tour of this Upcountry farm, which supplies Pacifico restaurant and the Feast at Lele. Where else can you help harvest your meal, give the goodies to a gourmet chef and feast on the bounty? On the new 'Seed to Cup' Coffee Tours you'll learn about coffee cultivation.
zFestivals & Events
Holy Ghost FeastCULTURAL
(www.kulacatholiccommunity.org; hMay; c)
This festival celebrates Kula’s Portuguese heritage. Held at the Holy Ghost Church in the spring on Pentecost weekend (50 days after Easter). It’s a family event with games, craft vendors, a farmers market and a free Hawaiian-Portuguese lunch on Sunday.
5Eating
La ProvenceCAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-1313; www.laprovencekula.com; 3158 Lower Kula Rd, Waiakoa; pastries $3-6, lunch $11-14, crepes $4-13; h7am-2pm Wed-Sun)
One of Kula’s best-kept secrets, this little courtyard restaurant in the middle of nowhere is the domain of Maui’s finest pastry chef. Popular offerings include ham-and-cheese croissants, chocolate-filled pastries, and filled crepes. Weekends offer a brunch menu that draws patrons from far and wide. Try the warm goat cheese and Kula greens salad. Hours may fluctuate so call before driving here. Cash and check only.
oKula Lodge RestaurantHAWAIIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-1535; www.kulalodge.com; 15200 Haleakalā Hwy; breakfast $12-27, lunch $18-42, dinner $26-42; h7am-9pm)
Assisted by its staggering view, perhaps the best of any Maui restaurant, Kula Lodge has reinvented itself to great effect. Inside, veteran Chef Marc McDowell has the kitchen humming to a farm-to-table variety menu. Locally sourced salads are delicious. Outside, brick ovens provide build-your-own pizzas served under cabanas (11am to 8pm). A spectacular sunset here is the perfect ending to a day on the summit.
oKula BistroITALIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-871-2960; www.kulabistro.com; 4566 Lower Kula Rd; breakfast $9-17, lunch & dinner $12-39; h7:30am-10:30am Tue-Sun, plus 11am-8pm daily)
Is everyone in town here or what? Yup, sure looks like it. And we think we know why. This superb family-owned bistro offers a friendly dining room, sparkling service and delicious home cooking, including fabulous pizza and huge servings of coconut cream pie (enough for two). BYOB wine from Morihara Store across the street. No corkage fee.
7Shopping
Kula Country FarmsFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.kulacountryfarms.com; Kula Hwy; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; c)
If you're driving past this large produce stand in October with the kids, you will have to pull over for the happenin' Pumpkin Patch. Resistance is futile – and the place does look fun. Otherwise, stop by for fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers from local farms, as well as a good selection of Maui-sourced jams, sauces and honeys, plus farm-themed gifts.
Keokea
Blink-and-you'll-miss it Keokea is the last real town before Hana if you’re swinging around the southern part of the island. The sum total of the town center consists of a coffee shop, an art gallery, a gas station and two small stores, the Ching Store and the Fong Store. The last two announce one of Hawaii’s many immigrant populations. Drawn by rich soil, Hakka Chinese farmers migrated to this remote corner of Kula at the turn of the 20th century. Their influence is still found throughout the village.
But the village isn't entirely off the world's radar – media powerhouse Oprah Winfrey has a home and property in the area. With small-town friendliness, a low-key vibe and a gorgeous backdrop of green fields and a deep blue sea, this is a pleasant place to hide out for a few hours. Or days.
1Sights & Activities
Sun Yat-sen ParkPARK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-572-8122; www.mauicounty.gov//Facilities; Kula Hwy & Kamaole Rd; p)
For a time Sun Yat-sen, father of the Chinese nationalist movement, lived in Keokea. He’s honored at Sun Yat-sen Park, found along the Kula Hwy (Hwy 37), 1.7 miles beyond Grandma’s Coffee House. The park has picnic tables and is a great place to soak up the broad vistas that stretch clear across to West Maui.
St John’s Episcopal ChurchCHURCH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-1485; www.stjohnsmaui.org; 8992 Kula Hwy; hservices 7:30am & 9:30am Sun)
Overlooking a gorgeous view of the coast, this local landmark (c 1907) still bears its name in Chinese characters. Hosts the annual Kula Fest in early fall.
Thompson RoadSCENIC DRIVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Thompson Rd)
Just up from Grandma's Coffee House, this narrow country road swoops briefly through emerald green pastures, flanked by a lava rock wall. Beyond the wall? More green and the deep blue coast. You'll be pulling over for photos, especially if clouds are adding a bit of sparkle to the light. It's magical – so drive slowly and please respect the neighbors.
5Eating
oGrandma’s Coffee HouseCAFE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-2140; www.grandmascoffee.com; 9232 Kula Hwy; pastries $4, sandwiches $8-10; h7am-5pm, to 8pm Wed-Sat)S
Worthy of a Norman Rockwell painting, this charming island landmark with its creaking screen door and carved wooden tables grows its own coffee and dishes up deli lunches. Take your goodies out on the lanai and eat right under the coffee trees. Coffee is $1.50 – nice!
8Information
Kula HospitalMEDICAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-1221; www.mauimemorialmedical.org; 100 Keokea Pl; hemergency room 24hr, clinic 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)
ʻUlupalakua
The sprawling 18,000-acre ʻUlupalakua Ranch, which anchors this green landscape, is home to 2300 brood cattle, as well as a small herd of Rocky Mountain elk, which dot the hillside pastures. The ranch is still worked by paniolo, Hawaii cowboys who have been here for generations. Today, most people stop by to visit the bustling winery, which sits on ʻUlupalakua Ranch land, about 6 miles beyond Keokea.
Hwy 37 winds south through ranch country, offering good views of Kahoʻolawe and the little island of Molokini. With a stop at the winery, the drive to ʻUlupalakua is a nice half-day excursion from Central Maui and Paʻia. After the vineyard, it’s another 25 dusty, bumpy miles to Kipahulu along the remote Piʻilani Hwy.
2Activities
Triple L RanchHORSEBACK RIDING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-280-7070; www.triplelranchmaui.com; 15900 Piʻilani Hwy; 90min/2hr $135/160, half-/full day $285/375; h9am-6:30pm)
Unique on Maui, these personalized trail rides offer the opportunity to explore the volcanic Kaʻnaio region, from a 90-minute outing around the cattle ranch to half- and full-day excursions to the sea and back. You won’t be running into anyone else. Beach rides include a Bully's Burger – straight from the ranch. For ages 12 and over. Reserve 24 hours ahead.
TTours
Maui WineWINE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-6058; www.mauiwine.com; 14815 Piʻilani Hwy; h10am-5:30pm, tours 10:30am & 1:30pm)S
Formerly Tedeschi Vineyards, Maui’s sole winery offers free tastings in its historic stone cottage and twice-daily 30-minute tours, also complimentary. It produces a noteworthy variety, from grape wines to novelty wines, using local fruit to great effect. Try the sweet Maui Splash, a light blend of pineapple and passion fruit, then stroll the historic grounds.
The new 75-minute King's Tour ($50 per person, 3:30pm Thursday and 2:30pm Saturday) takes guests across the property, where the last reigning king of Hawaii would visit. This tour includes tastings of estate wine from the vineyard, sampled in the historic Old Jail.
To learn more about the history of the ranch – which was established in the mid-1800s – step into the small exhibit room beside the tasting area.
zFestivals & Events
ʻUlupalakua Holiday Tree LightingCULTURAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-6058; www.mauiwine.com; 14815 Piʻilani Hwy; hDec; c)
On a Saturday in early December, ʻUlupalakua Ranch sponsors a fun holiday bash on the lawn of Maui Wine. Come by for children's games, live music, an outdoor movie and the lighting of a 25ft-tall decorated Monterey pine. There's wine tasting too. Admission is free, but the winery requests that guests bring a canned good for Maui Food Bank.
5Eating
ʻUlupalakua Ranch StoreDELI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %808-878-1202; www.ulupalakuaranch.com; Piʻilani Hwy; burgers $9-12; hstore 9:30am-5:30pm, grill 10am-5pm)S
Sidle up to the life-size wooden cowboys on the front porch and say howdy. Then pop inside and check out the cowboy hats and souvenir T-shirts. If it’s lunchtime, mosey over to the grill and treat yourself to an organic ranch-raised elk burger. The meats on the menu are Maui sourced, and Chef Will Munder strives to do the same with the produce.
Hiking in the North Shore & Upcountry
Trails twist through thick, sometimes eerie, groves of trees in the Upcountry, a green landscape that sweeps across the steep and often misty slopes of Haleakalā.
Kahakapao Loop Trail
- Start/End Makawao Forest Reserve parking area
- Length 5.7 miles; half-day
Your companions on this walk through the woods? Dog-walkers, mountain bikers and friendly hikers, plus a thick forest. The trees in this reserve are mostly non-native, planted in the early 1900s to protect the watershed after native flora had been destroyed.
To reach Kahakapao Rd and the parking area, follow Piʻiholo Rd for 1.5 miles, turn left on Waiahiwi Rd and turn right after 0.4 miles. Continue to the reserve (open 7am to 7pm). After entering, cross four dips in the road then enter the parking area 0.6 miles from the gate
The trail runs through the Kahakapao Recreation Area within the 2093-acre Makawao Forest Reserve. From the parking area, walk to the information kiosk at the back of the lot. A half-mile connector trail, leading to the loop, dives down into the forest just left of the sign. You'll pass a collection of skill courses and pump tracks for both beginner and expert cyclists. Bike-repair tools are attached to a pole by one of the tracks, along with an air pump.
The hard-packed trail is a mix of dirt and clay, often covered in leaves and broken by roots. It can get dangerously slick when wet. And it's often wet. A few single-track bike paths also cross the woods, connecting at various points along the main loop. Beyond the last pump track, the connector trail joins the main loop at another information kiosk.
The right side of the loop is called Kahakapao Loop West. Marked by red arrows, the trail runs 2.2 miles up the side of Haleakalā, twisting through a darkly wooded but lush ravine. One would hardly bat an eye if a hobbit or troll strolled past. The trees occasionally squeak from the wind, adding to the eeriness, especially if you're hiking solo. The trail passes a picnic table then twists to the top of the loop. Here, pick up Kahakapao Loop East, which drops through eucalyptus, ash and pine forests on its return to the start of the loop.
Polipoli Circuit
- Start/End Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area Campground
- Length 5.3 miles; half-day (longer if you hike from the reserve entrance)
From the Polipoli campground parking area, the Redwood, Plum, Haleakalā Ridge and Polipoli Trails form a worthwhile 5.3-mile loop. The parking area sits at an elevation of 6200ft, so it's cooler here than on the coast. Temperatures can drop below freezing here at night. Wear bright clothing as hunters are active near the park.
To get to the Redwood Trail, follow paved Waipoli Rd to the Kula Forest Reserve. Once the pavement ends, it's another 4 miles to the campground ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Waipoli Rd; campsite $18) and the trailhead. According to the sign, this unpaved stretch requires a 4WD vehicle. You will really see why if the road is wet and muddy.
Proceeding counter-clockwise, the 1.7-mile Redwood Trail leads from the right of the parking area. From there you’ll descend into a towering redwood forest that feels more like California than Hawaii. You'll pass the Tie Trail trailhead and an old ranger's cabin before ending at a former CivilianConservation Corps camp. The Redwood Trail is open to hikers and mountain bikers. The Plum and Boundary Trails meet here too.
Follow the 1.7-mile Plum Trail as it ascends through stands of ash, redwood and sugi trees – all non-native. As the trail name suggests, plum trees also border the trail. From the Plum Trail, pick up the Haleakalā Ridge Trail. Stretching 1.6 miles, this scenic path climbs a rift on the southwest slope of the volcano. Look for pine and eucalyptus trees as well as cinders and native scrub.
Complete the loop back to the campground on the short but sweet Polipoli Trail, which ribbons beneath cypress trees and cedars, as well as the now-familiar pines.
Waihou Spring Trail
- Start Top of Olinda Rd
- End Top of Olinda Rd
- Length 2.4 miles round-trip
For a quiet walk in deep woods, take this cool, tranquil and mostly easy trail, which begins 4.75 miles up Olinda Rd from central Makawao. A half-mile in you'll reach a short loop trail. A steep (and potentially muddy) offshoot from the loop descends to Waihou Spring, but for most the loop will be enough (www.hawaiitrails.org).