totem pole at the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre
The Sea-to-Sky Highway, one of western Canada’s most stunning roadways, connects Vancouver to the year-round outdoor mecca of Whistler.
Just a two-hour drive, it’s perfect for a day trip or as part of a longer exploration. Whistler offers not just North America’s largest snow sports resort but also plenty of opportunities for hiking, biking, paddling the glacier-fed lakes, and exploring the region’s First Nations heritage.
Between Whistler and Vancouver, the town of Squamish is a hot spot for outdoor activities, including excellent hiking and the region’s best white-water rafting. For those looking for gentler adventures, Squamish’s Sea-to-Sky Gondola delivers stellar mountain views and access to mountaintop hiking trails.
totem pole at the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre
S SEA-TO-SKY GONDOLA: A 10-minute ride up this 2,790-foot (850-meter) Squamish peak gives you expansive views of Howe Sound and the surrounding mountains. There’s a suspension bridge, lots of hiking trails, and a great patio at the top (click here).
S BRACKENDALE EAGLES PROVINCIAL PARK: One of North America’s largest populations of bald eagles spends the winter months in this park near Squamish (click here).
S STAWAMUS CHIEF PROVINCIAL PARK: For strong hikers, a day hike up the rocky summit known as the Chief is a popular adventure (click here).
S WHISTLER-BLACKCOMB: From skiing and snowboarding to hiking, canoeing, rock climbing, and zip-lining, if it’s an outdoor adventure, you can do it at this mountain resort (click here).
skiing at Whistler-Blackcomb
S SQUAMISH LIL’WAT CULTURAL CENTRE: Learn about the Whistler region’s First Nations communities at this modern museum and cultural facility (click here).
S SCANDINAVE SPA: After your Whistler adventures, ease your sore muscles into the hot and cold pools at this Scandinavian-style soaking spa (click here).
Located midway between Vancouver and Whistler along the Sea-to-Sky Highway (Hwy. 99), Squamish is perched between the Coast Mountains and Howe Sound. Cafés, local eateries, and a few shops populate the town’s sleepy downtown, while along Highway 99, strip malls and fast-food joints give Squamish a mountain-suburban feel. The real action in Squamish, though, is outdoors.
It’s a popular destination for all manner of outdoor adventures, including hiking, rock climbing, and white-water rafting. You can see the area’s most famous peak, the Stawamus Chief, from the highway, or tackle the Chief on a day hike.
Squamish takes its name from the Squamish First Nation, the people whose traditional territory encompasses the modern-day town. In more recent times, mining was an important contributor to the local economy; a historic mine is now a visitor attraction. Another Squamish attraction, if you’re passing through between December and February, is seeing bald eagles; one of North America’s largest populations of eagles spends the winter months near Squamish.
Squamish makes an easy day trip from Vancouver or a stopover between Vancouver and Whistler. It’s 40 miles (65 kilometers) from Vancouver to Squamish, a one-hour drive, and 37 miles (60 kilometers) between Squamish and Whistler, which takes 45 minutes.
Beginning in 1904 and continuing through much of the 20th century, the Britannia Beach area south of Squamish was copper mining territory. During its heyday, the Britannia Mine produced more copper than any other mine in the British Empire. Workers from more than 50 countries settled here, living in barracks by the water or in a company town high in the surrounding hills.
Britannia Mine Museum
While the Britannia Mine provided valuable resources and jobs for decades, it also created environmental havoc, particularly on the local water supply. After the mine closed in 1974, its environmental impacts took years to remediate.
The mine site is now the Britannia Mine Museum (1 Forbes Way, Britannia Beach, 604/896-2233 or 800/896-4044, www.britanniaminemuseum.ca; 9:30am-5:30pm daily; adults $29, seniors $26.50, ages 13-18 $23, ages 5-12 $18.50), where you can explore the mine’s complicated history and get a glimpse of what it was like to work in the 130-mile (210-kilometer) network of tunnels underground. Begin the 45-minute tour by donning a hard hat and riding a train into the mine. Guides demonstrate explosives, drilling tools, and how the “muck” (rocks sparkling with copper) was hauled out of the tunnels.
Highway 99, the Sea-to-Sky Highway, is one of western Canada’s most beautiful drives. And in a region full of beautiful drives, that’s high praise.
At its southern end, the winding road that leads from West Vancouver to Whistler hugs the shores of Howe Sound, where the Gulf Islands rise from the water. You can stop at Horseshoe Bay (http://horseshoebayvillage.com), where the ferries depart for Vancouver Island and B.C.’s Sunshine Coast, to stroll the harbor and admire the vistas.
Horseshoe Bay
Another stopping point is Porteau Cove Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca), which has a small pebbly beach along a scenic stretch of coastline.
In Squamish (www.exploresquamish.com), you have views both of the waterfront and the mountains, particularly the iconic Stawamus Chief that looms above the highway. As you continue toward Whistler (www.whistler.com), the road begins to climb, and both forests and peaks surround you.
Keep your camera handy, but pull off at one of the many turnouts to take in the views. At several viewpoints, informational kiosks explore the region’s First Nations heritage, a “Cultural Journey” designed in partnership with Whistler’s Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre (www.slcc.ca).
With rock faces plunging down to the roadway and forested islands just offshore, you can easily become distracted by the scenery, so drive carefully. Watch your speed, too, as the speed limit changes frequently, as do the number of travel lanes.
From October through March, drivers are required to have winter tires or carry (and know how to use) chains, since sections of Highway 99 can become snow-covered and slippery.
Yet, whatever the season, this drive is a striking one, so pack up the car, and hit the road from sea to sky.
Above ground, tours continue in the 1923 mill building that rises nearly 20 stories into the hill; inside, workers had to climb 375 steps to reach the building’s highest level. You can also explore a museum building and watch an interesting 15-minute film about the mine’s history. Tours are offered throughout the day, but schedules vary seasonally; check the website or phone for tour times. The temperature in the mine (54°F/12°C) can feel chilly, so bring a sweater.
The Britannia Mine Museum is 32 miles (52 kilometers) north of Vancouver and 7.5 miles (12 kilometers) south of Squamish, along Highway 99.
Pull off the highway between Britannia Beach and Squamish for a short stroll to B.C.’s third highest waterfall. At Shannon Falls Provincial Park (Hwy. 99, 604/986-9371, www.env.gov.bc.ca; dawn-dusk daily; free), the falls descend 1,100 feet (335 meters) in a narrow, rushing gush. An easy 0.25-mile (400-meter) walking trail leads through the forest to the falls.
Beyond the falls, up a short steep trail (there are stairs), you can hike to another viewpoint for a closer look at the cascading waters.
Shannon Falls is 36 miles (58 kilometers) north of Vancouver and 1.25 miles (2 kilometers) south of Squamish. The park has a snack bar and restrooms with flush toilets (snack bar and restrooms open mid-May to mid-Oct.).
For spectacular views of Howe Sound, the Chief, and the surrounding mountains, take a ride up the Sea-to-Sky Gondola (36800 Hwy. 99, 604/892-2550, www.seatoskygondola.com; 10am-6pm Sun.-Thurs., 10am-8pm Fri.-Sat. mid-May-mid-Sept., 10am-5pm daily mid-Sept.-mid-May; adults $40, seniors $38, ages 13-18 $24, ages 6-12 $14). A 10-minute trip in the eight-passenger gondola whisks you up to the 2,790-foot (850-meter) summit, where you can enjoy the vistas, have lunch on the deck at the Summit Lodge, and access a network of hiking trails. Purchase your gondola tickets online at least 24 hours before your visit to save a few dollars.
Sky Pilot Suspension Bridge, Sea-to-Sky Gondola
Once you’ve taken the gondola to the summit, a highlight is the Sky Pilot Suspension Bridge, a 330-foot (100-meter) span that crosses from the Summit Lodge to a viewing platform with expansive views. If you’re afraid of heights, don’t worry; you don’t have to cross the bridge to reach most of the hiking trails.
Another adventure that begins from the gondola summit is the Via Ferrata (604/892-2550, www.seatoskygondola.com; daily May-Oct., tour times vary; over age 7 $109). This “iron way” gives you the experience of rock climbing without needing any special climbing skills or experience. With a guide, you take a short hike down from the Summit Lodge. From there, you clip into a safety cable, cross bridges and a catwalk, and climb a series of steel rungs up the rock face. You’ll have beautiful views as you climb, but skip this activity if you’re acrophobic. The tour is 1.5 hours. You have to purchase a gondola ticket in addition to the Via Ferrata tour fee. Kids under eight are not allowed on the Via Ferrata.
A number of hiking trails start at the gondola summit. Two are easy walking paths: the 0.25-mile (400-meter) Spirit Trail, a flat loop trail with interpretive panels about the region’s First Nations, and the Panorama Trail, a one-mile (1.6-kilometer) loop that takes you to a lookout with excellent views of the Stawamus Chief.
Also starting from the summit is the moderate Wonderland Trail. This forested one-mile (1.6-kilometer) loop has a couple of slightly steeper segments, before flattening out as it circles small Wonderland Lake.
Experienced hikers can pick from several challenging trails that begin at the gondola summit, including the intermediate Shannon Basin Loop Trail (6 miles/9.7 kilometers) and the more difficult Al’s Habrich Ridge Trail (7.5 miles/12 kilometers) and Skyline Ridge Trail (15 miles/24 kilometers). Check with gondola staff for trail conditions before attempting these longer hikes, and be sure you have water, snacks, warm clothing, and a rain-resistant jacket, even if it’s sunny and warm when you set out; the mountain weather here can change quickly.
Want a workout? You can hike up to the gondola summit on the Sea-to-Summit Trail and then ride the gondola (one-way $15) back down. It’s a 4.5-mile (7.5-kilometer) steady climb; average hikers should allow three to five hours.
The Sea-to-Sky Gondola is open year-round. From December through April, weather permitting, trails are open for winter walking and snowshoeing, and there’s also a tube park where kids can slide down a hill on inner tubes. Before planning a winter visit, phone for trail conditions and current operating hours.
The small Basecamp Café (9am-3pm daily) at the gondola base sells coffee, drinks, trail mix, pastries, and a few sandwiches, but it’s worth waiting till you get to the Summit Restaurant and Edge Bar (10am-5:30pm daily; $9-14), in the lodge at the top of the gondola, for a meal with a view. The kitchen cooks up burgers, sandwiches, salads, and baked goods, and serves beer from Squamish’s own Howe Sound Brewing Company. If you prefer to picnic, you can bring your own food.
Although you can park for free in the lot at the gondola base, stays in this lot are limited to three hours. If you’re planning to do a longer hike or linger at the top (or if this parking area is full), park in the free lot at Darrell Bay, on Highway 99 opposite Shannon Falls Provincial Park, 0.3 mile (500 meters) south of the gondola.
To walk from the Darrell Bay parking area to the gondola base, carefully cross Highway 99 toward Shannon Falls and follow the Shannon Falls Connector Trail, which has signs directing you toward to the Sea-to-Sky Gondola.
To visit the gondola for the day from Vancouver, you can also take the Sea To Sky Gondola shuttle (hours vary seasonally; round-trip, including lift tickets, adults $69, seniors $59, ages 6-18 $49, under 6 $25). It picks up passengers in the morning from several points in downtown Vancouver, including the Hyatt Hotel on Burrard Street, Library Square, and Canada Place, and will return you to the city in the late afternoon.
From late November through mid-February, hundreds of bald eagles come to winter north of Squamish in the now-protected 1,865-acre (755-hectare) environs of Brackendale Eagles Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca; dawn-dusk daily Apr.-Sept.). It’s one of the most significant winter eagle populations in North America. In a recent peak year, volunteers counted more than 3,700 eagles in the vicinity.
You can’t actually enter the park during the eagle season; it’s closed to visitors between October and March to provide a protected habitat for the birds. However, you can watch the eagles from across the river. Eagle Run Park (Government Rd.; dawn-dusk daily), along the municipal dyke, has several viewing points where you can spot the birds. Bring binoculars if you have them. In December and January on the weekends, volunteer interpreters staff the Eagle Run viewing area (9:30am-3:30pm Sat.-Sun.) and can tell you more about the eagles and their migration patterns.
Coming from Vancouver or points south, follow Highway 99 past downtown Squamish, turn left (west) onto Mamquam Road, and then go right (north) on Government Road toward Brackendale.
Wondering how lumberjacks get their jollies? At the Squamish Days Loggers Sports Festival (www.squamishdays.ca, July-Aug.), a weekend of family fun, you can watch competitions in ax-throwing, tree-climbing, birling (also known as log rolling), and other events, and enjoy pancake breakfasts, bed races, barbecues, and more.
Looming above Highway 99 just north of the Sea-to-Sky Gondola, the rocky cliff known as the Chief has long been a must-do climb for experienced hikers and rock climbers. A challenging but popular day hike takes you from the Chief’s base to the top of the cliffs in the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park (Hwy. 99, 604/986-9371, www.env.gov.bc.ca or http://seatoskyparks.com; dawn-dusk daily).
The Chief actually has three summits, and you can choose to hike one or all. First Peak, at 2,000 feet (610 meters), draws the most hikers; from the summit, you have great views of Howe Sound. From the parking lot to the First Peak summit is just 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) round-trip. However, because the trail is quite steep, most hikers allow two to three hours.
Second Peak, at 2,150 feet (655 meters), has lots of viewpoints from its summit, looking across Howe Sound, the town of Squamish, and the mountains in nearby Garibaldi Provincial Park. From the parking lots, it’s three miles (5 kilometers) round-trip to the Second Peak. Allow four to five hours.
Third Peak is the tallest of the three summits, rising 2,300 feet (702 meters). You can hike to Third Peak directly from the base or continue from the Second Peak trail. Either route is 4.5 miles (7 kilometers) round-trip; allow five to seven hours.
The hikes up The Chief are considered intermediate-level adventures. Note, though, that on the routes to First and Second Peaks, there are sections where you need to climb ladders or grab onto chains to help you reach the top. For all these hikes, bring water, snacks, a rain jacket, and warm layers. Get an early start and, especially in the summer, hike on a weekday if you want to avoid congestion on these often-busy trails.
The region’s largest provincial park, the 750-square-mile (1,942-square-kilometer) Garibaldi Provincial Park (www.env.gov.bc.ca) extends from Squamish north to Whistler and beyond. Hikers have a lot of territory to explore in this vast park, with more than 55 miles (90 kilometers) of hiking trails.
The southernmost section of the park, Diamond Head, is closest to Squamish and includes the park’s namesake, the 8,786-foot (2,678-meter) Mount Garibaldi. For experienced day hikers, a scenic trail in the Diamond Head area leads up to Elfin Lakes (7 miles/11 kilometers, each way); allow three to five hours one-way. To find the trailhead, turn east off Highway 99 onto Mamquam Road, 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) north of Squamish. Follow the paved road past the Squamish Golf and Country Club, and take the gravel road just after the Mashiter Creek Bridge. In 3.7 miles (6 kilometers), turn left onto the Garibaldi Park road, which will take you to the parking lot. It’s 10 miles (16 kilometers) from the highway to the parking area.
Farther north, you can do several day hikes in the park’s Black Tusk/Garibaldi Lake sector. It’s a six-mile (9-kilometer) climb to Garibaldi Lake. Allow three to four hours each way; the trail has an elevation change of nearly 2,800 feet (850 meters). From the same starting point, you can hike to Taylor Meadows. This 4.75-mile (7.5-kilometer) route follows the Garibaldi Lake trail for the first 3.75 miles (6 kilometers) before heading up into the alpine meadows. Allow three to four hours each way; the trail also has an elevation change of about 2,800 feet (850 meters). The Garibaldi Lake parking lot is 23 miles (37 kilometers) north of Squamish or 12 miles (19 kilometers) south of Whistler, along Highway 99.
At the park’s higher elevations, snow is usually on the ground from October until June or July. Check the trail conditions report on the park website before you set out.
Two rivers in the Squamish area offer white-water rafting adventures. Trips on the Cheakamus River are gentler, with class I and II rapids, good for family excursions. The faster Elaho-Squamish River, with class III and IV rapids, will give you more of a thrill. For the Elaho trips, kids generally need to be at least 12 years old and weigh at least 90 pounds (40 kilograms).
SunWolf Rafting (70002 Squamish Valley Rd., 604/898-1537 or 877/806-8046, www.sunwolf.net) offers full-day Elaho River trips (June-Sept.; adults $169, ages 12-16 $155) that include a barbecue lunch. They also run half-day Cheakamus River family trips (June-Sept.; adults $99, ages 5-12 $69). In winter, when hundreds of eagles nest at Brackendale Eagles Provincial Park, SunWolf operates guided Eagle Float Tours (Dec.-mid-Feb.; adults $110, ages 5-12 $75) that enable you to view the eagles from the river, closer than you can see them from the shore.
Canadian Outback Rafting (40900 Tantalus Rd., 866/565-8735, www.canadianoutbackrafting.com) runs Elaho River trips (May-Sept.; adults $154, ages 13-16 $140) and Cheakamus River float trips (May-Sept.; adults $95, ages 5-16 $66). Whistler-based Wedge Rafting (211-4293 Mountain Square, Whistler, 604/932-7171 or 888/932-5899, http://wedgerafting.com) operates Elaho (May-Sept.; adults $169, ages 12-16 $155) and Cheakamus (May-Sept.; adults $99, ages 6-16 $69) trips as well.
Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company (37801 Cleveland Ave., 604/892-2603, www.howesound.com) is a brewery, a restaurant, and a place to stay. Rates at the 20-room inn ($89-129 d) include Wi-Fi and a brewery tour. The brewpub (11am-midnight Mon.-Thurs., 11am-1am Fri., 8am-1am Sat., 8am-midnight Sun.; $11-18) serves pizzas, salads, burgers, and other pub fare to pair with the craft beer. Free brewery tours are offered daily at 1pm.
A popular spot for breakfast, Fergie’s Café (70002 Squamish Valley Rd., Brackendale, 604/898-1537 or 877/806-8046, www.sunwolf.net; 8am-3pm daily; $12-15) serves home-style classics with local ingredients, like eggs Benedict, pulled pork hash, Nutella french toast, and burgers.
Locals recommend Sushi Sen (40382 Tantalus Way, Garibaldi Highlands, 604/898-8235, www.sushisensquamish.com; lunch 11:30am-2pm Tues.-Fri., dinner 5pm-9pm Tues.-Thurs., 5pm-9:30pm Fri., 4pm-9:30pm Sat., 4pm-9pm Sun.; $8-21) when they need a maki or nigiri fix. While the menu emphasizes sushi, you can choose a few other Japanese standards, including chicken teriyaki or tempura.
If you want to stay overnight in Squamish, the town has several mid-range chain hotels off Highway 99, including the Executive Suites Hotel and Resort (40900 Tantalus Rd., Garibaldi Highlands, 604/815-0048 or 877/815-0048, www.executivesuitessquamish.com; $125-229 d) and the Sandman Hotel & Suites Squamish (39400 Discovery Way, 604/848-6000 or 800/726-3626, www.sandmanhotels.ca; $149-199).
It’s a one-hour, 40-mile (65-kilometer) drive from Vancouver to Squamish via Highway 1 and the Sea-to-Sky Highway.
From downtown Vancouver, take West Georgia Street to the Lions Gate Bridge. After crossing the bridge, bear left toward Marine Drive west/Highway 1/Highway 99. Enter Marine Drive and stay in the far right lane to take the first right onto Taylor Way, following signs for “Whistler.” Follow Taylor Way up the hill, and exit left onto Highway 1 west. Continue on Highway 1 until it merges with Highway 99, the Sea-to-Sky Highway, which will take you to Squamish.
While it’s easiest to explore Squamish if you have a car, it’s possible to get from Vancouver to Squamish on the bus.
Greyhound (800/661-8747, www.greyhound.ca; 1 hour and 20 min.; one-way adults $11-23) runs several buses a day between Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station (1150 Station St.) and their Squamish depot (40446 Government Rd., Squamish, 604/898-3914). While designed for commuters, the Squamish Connector (604/802-2119, www.squamishconnector.com; one-way adults $25) can take you between the Squamish Adventure Centre (38551 Loggers Ln.) and downtown Vancouver if your travel times fit with their bus schedule. Perimeter Transportation (604/717-6600 or 888/717-6606, http://www.perimeterbus.com) operates buses between the Squamish Adventure Centre and either YVR airport (one-way adults $75) or downtown Vancouver (one-way adults $55), although their fares are much higher.
Once you’ve arrived in Squamish, you can take local buses that B.C. Transit (604/892-5559, https://bctransit.com/squamish/home) operates. Use the trip planner on their website to map your in-town routes.
At the Squamish Adventure Centre, just off Highway 99, Tourism Squamish (38551 Loggers Ln., 604/815-4994 or 877/815-5084, www.tourismsquamish.com; 8am-5pm daily) provides lots of information about the region, including details about hiking trails. The building has a café and restrooms, handy for a Sea-to-Sky pit stop.
More than two million visitors every year make their way to this mountain town that has a permanent population of only 10,000. The core of the village is an alpine-style pedestrian plaza, where restaurants, pubs, and shops line the walkways, and all paths lead, sooner or later, to the ski lifts. Most visitors come to get outdoors—to ski or snowboard in winter, and to hike, cycle, canoe, kayak, rock climb, or zip-line in the warmer months. Others simply want to stroll through the pedestrian village and perhaps ride the gondola to gaze across the mountains.
Just a two-hour drive from Vancouver, Whistler is close enough for a day trip. If you enjoy outdoor adventures, though, you might want to spend two days or more. There’s plenty to do!
Whistler has several neighborhoods stretching along Highway 99, with the main Whistler Village about midway through the area. Creekside, where there’s a separate base village with its own lifts, and Function Junction, a more industrial area with some of the town’s services, are south of Whistler Village. The Upper Village and the Blackcomb base areas are just north of Whistler Village.
From more than 200 trails for skiing and snowboarding to mountain biking, gondola rides, hiking, zip-lining, and much more, the two-mountain Whistler-Blackcomb Resort (604/967-8950 or 800/766-0449, www.whistlerblackcomb.com) has scads of outdoor things to do all year long.
Whistler’s PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola (10:15am-5pm daily late May-late Sept., 10:15am-5pm Sat.-Sun. late Sept.-mid-Oct.; adults $54-59, seniors and ages 13-18 $47-52, ages 7-12 $27-30) runs 2.73 miles (4.4 kilometers) between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains. It holds the world’s record for the longest unsupported span (that is, the straight-line distance between two towers) at 1.88 miles (3,024 meters) and for the highest lift of its kind, rising 1,427 feet (436 meters) above the valley floor. It transports skiers and snowboarders between the two mountains in winter, and from spring through fall, it’s open to sightseers to enjoy the peaks’ panoramas.
Whistler’s PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola
Allow about two hours for a sightseeing trip on the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola. The PEAK 2 PEAK ride itself takes about 20 minutes, but to reach the gondola station, you need to take either the Whistler Village Gondola or chairlifts on Blackcomb Mountain, which add another 25 minutes each way. If you plan to go hiking, allow additional time.
Gondola tickets are typically cheaper if you buy them online in advance, but check the weather forecast first. The views are obviously best on a sunny, clear day.
Do you want to try rock climbing but don’t have any training or experience? Consider Whistler’s Via Ferrata (604/938-9242, www.mountainskillsacademy.com; 4 hours; adults $139, ages 14-18 $119), a guided climbing route that’s open to anyone who’s reasonably fit, even if you’ve never done any climbing. The name comes from the Italian for “iron way,” and the Via Ferrata route includes a series of iron rungs built into the mountain, which provide hand grips and footholds as you ascend the rock face. You clip on to a series of safety cables during your climb, which you do in small groups with a guide. Your guide will give you tips as you ascend and talk you through some of the more challenging sections.
If you’ve come to North America’s largest winter sports resort during the ski season, you’ll likely spend your day out on the snow. But if you’re at Whistler before the snow falls, here’s how to organize a great one-day trip.
Whistler is located on the traditional territory of two First Nations, so start your day with a visit to the modern Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, where you can learn about the history and present-day culture of these two communities. The excellent Audain Art Museum has noteworthy collections of Northwest Coast native masks, works by contemporary Vancouver photographers, and paintings by B.C.’s Emily Carr. If you want to know more about how Whistler became the outdoor resort it is today, wander over to the informative Whistler Museum, which tells the stories of many area entrepreneurs.
Then you want to get outdoors, whether you head up the mountain for a ride on the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola, which wings you between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains; challenge yourself with a climb on the Via Ferrata; go zip-lining or mountain biking, or simply take a hike. The biggest challenge might be seeing how many activities you can fit into your single day.
rest stop on Whistler’s Via Ferrata
When you’ve had your fill of outdoor adventure, unwind at the forested Scandinave Spa Whistler, a Scandinavian-style bath experience where you alternate between hot soaks and cold plunges.
Then choose one of Whistler’s top dining rooms, perhaps Araxi or the Bearfoot Bistro, for a leisurely evening meal. At Bearfoot Bistro, you can even have a nightcap in their Ketel One Ice Room, the coldest vodka tasting room in the world—a unique way to cap off your active Whistler day.
The Via Ferrata route starts with a short hike up from the Whistler Roundhouse (at the top of the Whistler Gondola) across a boulder field or a snowy slope or both, depending on the season, to the start of the climbing route. After your climb, you hike or take the chairlift back to your starting point. Wear sturdy hiking shoes, and bring a rainproof jacket and a small backpack with water and snacks.
You need to purchase a PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola ticket in addition to the Via Ferrata tour ticket. Via Ferrata tours are seasonal, generally beginning in late May or June and continuing until early October; tours typically start at 9am or 1pm, but call or check the website to confirm.
Whistler-Blackcomb has lots of hiking trails, from short easy strolls to all-day adventures, that you can access from the lifts or gondolas.
From the top of the Whistler Gondola or the Whistler side of the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola near the Roundhouse Lodge, you can access the moderate Harmony Lake Trail and Loop, a 1.6-mile (2.5-kilometer) round-trip circuit through the forest to pretty Harmony Lake. You can extend this hike on the steeper 0.7-mile (1.1-kilometer) Harmony Meadows Trail, which connects to the Harmony Lake route.
For a more challenging hike with panoramic views, take the Peak Express chair (a short walk from the Roundhouse Lodge) to the start of the 5.8-mile (9.4-kilometer) High Note Trail. This trail follows the mountain ridges, with great views of the Black Tusk peak in Garibaldi Provincial Park and Cheakamus Lake far below. You can circle back on the trail and ride the lift down, or for an all-day adventure, hike back down to the village; the latter route is about 14 miles (22 kilometers).
Pick up a trail map showing these and other hiking routes at the Whistler Visitor Centre (4230 Gateway Dr.) or get one online at the website of Whistler-Blackcomb (www.whistlerblackcomb.com).
Have you seen those cyclists, suited up in knee pads, elbow pads, helmets, and other protective gear, flying down the mountain trails? At Whistler-Blackcomb, you can join them, whether you’re learning to mountain bike or whizzing down those trails yourself at North America’s largest mountain bike park.
From mid-May through mid-October, 70 trails across three different areas are open to mountain bikers, who take their bikes up the lifts.
You can choose a package including lift tickets and lessons (one-day $129-149) or, if you know what you’re doing, buy a lift ticket (one-day adults $69) and hit the trails on your own. Bike rentals are available at shops around the village.
In winter, Whistler-Blackcomb has 37 lifts providing access to more than 200 trails across 8,171 acres (3,300 hectares), so you can ski or snowboard here for days and still discover new terrain.
Whistler Village is at an elevation of 2,214 feet (675 meters), while the highest lift takes you up to nearly 7,500 feet (2,284 meters), so the weather can be very different at the base than it is in the alpine regions. Even when there’s no snow in the village, the mountains are typically covered in the white stuff from late November into April.
Lift tickets (one-day adults $129) are most expensive when you walk up to the ticket window and purchase a single-day, same-day ticket. Discounts are available when you buy tickets online in advance, purchase multiday tickets or passes, or sometimes when you buy your tickets as part of a package with your lodging. The Edge Card program offers discounts to residents of British Columbia, Washington State, and Oregon, with larger savings for advance purchases. Explore all the pricing options and details at Whistler-Blackcomb (604/967-8950 or 800/766-0449, www.whistlerblackcomb.com).
For centuries before Whistler was an outdoor holiday destination, aboriginal communities called the region home. Discover this heritage at the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre (4584 Blackcomb Way, 604/964-0999 or 866/441-7522, www.slcc.ca; 10am-5pm Tues.-Sun.; adults $18, seniors and ages 13-18 $13.50, ages 6-12 $8), a fascinating multimedia exploration of the two First Nations whose traditional territory encompasses the Whistler region.
Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre
After rhythmic beats of a drum and a traditional First Nations welcome song greet you, watch a short film about the history and present-day culture of these two communities. Then check out the exhibits, from hand-carved canoes to woven baskets to information about aboriginal languages. You can often try out a native craft or chat with “cultural ambassadors,” museum staff who come from the Squamish or Lil’wat communities. The center’s Thunderbird Café uses local ingredients in dishes like Squamish salmon chowder, Lil’wat venison chili, and bannock (a biscuit-like bread), and the gift shop sells locally made crafts.
Like many ski “villages” with their alpine facades and purpose-built pedestrian strolls, Whistler can seem like a manufactured community. The Whistler Museum (4333 Main St., 604/932-2019, www.whistlermuseum.org; 11am-5pm Fri.-Wed., 11am-9pm Thurs.; suggested donation $5) tells the history of how the present-day Whistler-Blackcomb resort came to be and the stories of the entrepreneurs and innovators who made it happen.
Another way to learn more about the town and its heritage is to take the museum’s one-hour Valley of Dreams Walking Tour (1pm daily June-Aug.; donations accepted), starting at the Whistler Visitor Centre (4230 Gateway Dr.). You’ll hear tales of the community’s entrepreneurial women, the year of the naked skiers, and much more.
Whistler joined Vancouver in hosting the 2010 Winter Olympic Games. One legacy of the Games is now a popular photo stop: in front of the colorful Olympic rings that adorn Whistler Olympic Plaza in the village. Also in the plaza is an outdoor amphitheater, where concerts, festivals, and other special events take place.
Whistler scored an art-world coup when Vancouver businessman and philanthropist Michael Audain decided to build a 56,000-square-foot (5,200-square-meter) gallery in this mountain town to house much of his extensive art collection. Focusing on British Columbia artists from the region’s earliest eras to the present, the Audain Art Museum (4350 Blackcomb Way, www.audainartmuseum.com; 10am-5pm Wed.-Mon.; adults $18, ages 16 and under free) has one of Canada’s largest collections of work by early-20th-century artist Emily Carr; other highlights include 19th-century Northwest Coast masks and Vancouver photography.
To unwind after a day on the mountains, head for Scandinave Spa Whistler (8010 Mons Rd., 604/935-2424 or 888/935-2423, www.scandinave.com; 10am-9pm daily; adults $65, minimum age 19), a Scandinavian-style bath experience set among the trees. You alternate between heat—in a series of hot pools, saunas, and steam baths—and brief cold plunges in a chilled pool or shower, following each sequence with a period of relaxation in the lounges or in a hammock in the forest. To make the experience even more tranquil, the spa has a “silence” policy; you can’t talk in the bath area.
Bring your own bathing suit. The spa provides towels and lockers. Several types of massage treatments are available for an additional fee.
Scandinave Spa is located two miles (3.5 kilometers) north of Whistler Village, along Highway 99.
After a freight train derailed near Whistler in 1956, a logging company towed the mangled railcars into the woods nearby, where they were abandoned. Over the years, local graffiti artists began using the train cars as their canvas, and today, Whistler’s train wreck site (off Jane Lakes Rd., www.whistler.ca; dawn-dusk; free), located south of town near Cheakamus Crossing, is an unusual outdoor art gallery, with the train cars tagged and retagged with vivid designs.
In 2016, the town of Whistler built a new suspension bridge over the Cheakamus River, making it easier to access the train wreck site. From Jane Lakes Road, you can follow a section of the Sea-to-Sky Trail that leads to the bridge and the train site. It’s about a 30-minute walk through the woods.
One of Whistler’s most popular pastimes is “après” (aka après-ski, literally “after skiing”), and what do you do after a day in the mountains but hit the pub? Here are several places where the party starts when the lifts close.
Merlin’s Bar and Grill (4553 Blackcomb Way, 604/938-7700; 11am-1am daily), located at the Blackcomb Mountain base, often has live music, as does the Garibaldi Lift Company Bar & Grill (4165 Springs Ln., 604/905-2220; 11am-1am daily), at the base of the Whistler Gondola. In the Creekside area, Dusty’s Bar & BBQ (2040 London Ln., 604/905-2171; 11am-1am daily) has been pouring pints since the 1960s.
The laid-back Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub (Pan Pacific Whistler Mountainside, 4320 Sundial Crescent, 604/905-4047, www.dubhlinngate.com; 8am-1am daily), steps from the Whistler Village lifts, keeps 25 varieties of beer on tap and offers a long list of single-malt scotch. They serve an authentic Irish breakfast and varied pub fare throughout the day.
Bearfoot Bistro (4121 Village Green, 604/932-3433, http://bearfootbistro.com; 6pm-late daily) is among Whistler’s best restaurants, but it’s also a destination for drinkers: Their Ketel One Ice Room is the coldest vodka tasting room in the world. Don a heavy parka (which the restaurant provides) and venture into the frosty tasting room, with its carved ice walls and year-round temperature of -25°F (-32°C). Choose a tasting flight ($48) from their selection of 50 different vodkas, made in destinations as diverse as Poland, the Ukraine, and Pemberton, B.C.
Several Whistler hotels have more sedate drinking scenes, more upscale lounge than rowdy party, including the Mallard Lounge at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler (4599 Chateau Blvd., 604/938-8000, www.fairmont.com; 11am-midnight Sun.-Thurs., 11am-1am Fri.-Sat.), known for its martinis and creative seasonal cocktails, and the Sidecut Bar at the Four Seasons Whistler (4591 Blackcomb Way, 604/935-3400, www.fourseasons.com; 11am-late daily). Cure Lounge at Nita Lake Lodge (2131 Lake Placid Rd., 604/966-5700, www.nitalakelodge.com; 11:30am-late daily), in the Creekside area, has a great patio overlooking the lake.
What about a private wine-tasting at your hotel or condo? Taste Whistler (604/902-9463 or 844/470-9463, www.tastewhistler.com; from $79-99 pp) creates customized wine-tastings for groups of friends, families, or corporate events, from a Wine 101 sampler to a B.C. wine or champagne tasting, and they’ll come to you.
The Whistler Arts Council (604/935-8410, www.artswhistler.com) hosts concerts, films, and other productions as part of their Performance Series at Maury Young Arts Centre (4335 Blackcomb Way).
For something a little different, see what’s happening at The Point Artist-Run Centre (5678 Alta Lake Rd., www.thepointartists.com), which presents live music during July and August in the Saturdays at the Point events, as well as occasional music, film, theater, and dance performances throughout the year. The facility is south of the village on the west side of Alta Lake.
Plenty of special events bring visitors to Whistler in the spring and summer. There’s something on the calendar most weekends from late May through Canadian Thanksgiving in mid-October.
Bring the kids to the annual Whistler Children’s Festival (www.whistlerchildrensfestival.com, July), a weekend of family-friendly arts, crafts, and entertainment ranging from African dancing to First Nations drumming.
A “celebration of mindful living,” Wanderlust Whistler (www.wanderlust.com, July-Aug.) includes several days of yoga classes, meditation workshops, concerts, lectures, guided hikes, and local food.
Crankworx Freeride Mountain Bike Festival (www.crankworx.com, Aug.) draws wild and crazy mountain bikers to town for a week of downhill and cross-country cycling, stunt riding, and plenty more two-wheeled fun.
One of Whistler’s top restaurants hosts the Araxi Longtable Series (www.araxi.com, Aug.-Sept.), lavish alfresco dinners highlighting the region’s late-summer bounty.
Whistler isn’t only about sports. The town shows its artistic side during the annual Whistler Writers Festival (www.whistlerwritersfest.com, Oct.), when Canadian and international authors conduct readings, teach seminars, participate on panels, and mingle with guests to discuss their work.
Why come to Whistler in November, when it’s chilly for hiking and cycling but too early to ski? Because that’s when Whistler hosts a bang-up food and wine festival. The annual Cornucopia Festival (www.whistlercornucopia.com, Nov.) draws food and wine lovers from far and wide for two weeks of wine-tastings and seminars, guest chef events, special dinners, and lots of parties.
Whistler Film Festival (www.whistlerfilmfestival.com, Dec.) screens up to 90 movies, including world premieres, features, documentaries, and shorts during this five-day international competition. At least 50 percent of the films are Canadian. You might even spot a celebrity or two.
Whistler hosts one of North America’s largest gay and lesbian ski weeks, the Whistler Pride and Ski Festival (www.gaywhistler.com, Jan.). It’s eight days of LGBTQ-friendly snow sports, après-ski events, parties, concerts, and more.
Winding 25 miles (40 kilometers) through the Whistler area, the paved Valley Trail (www.whistler.ca) is open to both walkers and cyclists. You can follow short stretches of the trail, for example, between the Blackcomb base area and Whistler Village, or head north to Green Lake or south to the Creekside area and beyond.
Close to Whistler Village (you can follow the Valley Trail), Lost Lake Park has several easy hiking and cycling trails. Walkers can circle the lake on the Lost Lake Loop trail, while mountain bikers can follow several single-track routes through the park.
Whistler has several areas of old-growth forest with massive trees. A moderate five-mile (8-kilometer) loop hike takes you through one of these forests along the Ancient Cedars Trail, where the trees are up to 1,000 years old. The trailhead is north of the village; take Highway 99 north past Green Lake and turn left onto 16-Mile Forest Service Road. It’s three miles (5 kilometers) from the highway to the parking area. Bring mosquito repellent, since this area can be buggy.
Get trail maps showing these and other trails from the Whistler Visitor Centre (4230 Gateway Dr.) or online from the Whistler municipality website (www.whistler.ca) or from www.whistler.com.
Fancy a ride on the longest zip line in Canada or the United States? Ziptrek Ecotours (604/935-0001 or 866/935-0001, www.ziptrek.com) offers several different zip-line options, including The Sasquatch (daily May-mid-Oct., 1.5 hours; adults $119, seniors and ages 10-14 $99), which runs more than 7,000 feet (2 kilometers), starting on Blackcomb Mountain and zipping down to the Whistler side.
Ziptrek also offers The Eagle (daily year-round, 2.5-3 hours; adults $139, seniors and ages 6-14 $119), which takes you down five zip lines and across four treetop bridges. If zip-lining is your passion, you can combine the Sasquatch and Eagle tours (4.5 hours; adults $209, seniors and ages 10-14 $189). Newcomers to zip-lining, or younger kids, may prefer The Bear (year-round, 2.5-3 hours; adults $119, seniors and ages 6-14 $99), a slightly gentler combination of zip lines and bridges. Hours vary seasonally, so call or check the website for details.
Superfly Ziplines (211-4293 Mountain Square, 604/932-0647, www.superflyziplines.com; 9am-5pm daily, 3 hours, adults $129-149, ages 7-13 $99) has a zip-line tour that includes a 0.6-mile (1 kilometer) line that’s more than 500 feet (150 meters) high.
If you’re looking for an activity that’s gentler than zip-lining but still gets you high in the trees, consider a two-hour TreeTrek Canopy Walk (604/935-0001 or 866/935-0001, www.ziptrek.com; daily year-round, call or check the website for tour times; adults $39, seniors and ages 6-14 $29), which follows a series of bridges suspended among the old-growth forest on Blackcomb Mountain. The highest of the eight viewing platforms rises nearly 200 feet (60 meters) above the forest floor; the oldest trees in the area are about 800 years old. On this excursion offered by Ziptrek Ecotours, your guide will introduce you to the local ecology as you explore the woods.
Want more of a challenge? Superfly’s Treetop Adventure Course (211-4293 Mountain Square, 604/932-0647, www.superflyziplines.com; 9am-5pm daily; $59) takes you through the treetops on a ropes course, where you navigate swaying bridges, rope swings, tightropes, and zip lines. Kids not tall enough to reach 71 inches (180 centimeters) can try the Kids Treetop Adventure Course ($29), designed for youngsters ages 7-14 who can reach to 55 inches (140 centimeters).
During the 2010 Winter Olympic Games, the Whistler Sliding Centre (4910 Glacier Ln., 604/964-0040, www.whistlersportlegacies.com) hosted the bobsled, skeleton, and luge competitions. You can live out your almost-Olympic dreams with rides down the same slippery track that the Olympic athletes used.
In summer, whiz down the track in the Rolling Thunder (Thurs.-Mon. late June-early Sept., advance reservations required; $99 pp), a bobsled on wheels. A pilot steers your sled, which holds up to four passengers and can reach speeds of 50 mph (80 km/h). Kids must be at least 12 to ride (12- and 13-year-olds must have an adult accompany them; those ages 14 to 18 need a parent or guardian present to sign a waiver). Participants must also be between 4 foot 6 and 6 foot 5 (137 to 196 centimeters) and weigh between 85 and 285 pounds (39 to 129 kilograms).
In winter, the Thunder on Ice (daily early Dec.-late Mar., advance reservations required; $179 pp) bobsled experience sends you down the ice at even faster speeds: up to 75 mph (120 km/h). The sled holds a pilot and one or two guests. For this experience, you must be between ages 14 and 75; youth ages 14 to 16 must ride with a parent or guardian, and those ages 17 and 18 must have a responsible adult sign a waiver. All participants must be between 4 foot 6 and 6 foot 8 (137-203 centimeters) and weigh between 90 and 270 pounds (41-122 kilograms) with your winter clothing on.
If you’re really adventurous, ride head-first on the skeleton down the icy track. Lightning on Ice (daily early Dec.-late Mar., advance reservations required; $179 pp) gives you two solo runs, where you may find yourself hurtling down the track at close to 60 mph (100 km/h). Minimum age for the skeleton is 16, and the maximum is 75. Parents or guardians must sign a waiver for youth under age 19, and all participants must be between 4 foot 6 and 6 foot 5 (137-198 centimeters) and weigh between 90 and 220 pounds (41-120 kilograms) with your winter clothing on.
To reach the Whistler Sliding Centre from Whistler Village, follow Blackcomb Way to Glacier Lane.
One of Whistler’s most peaceful outdoor experiences is a kayak or canoe tour along the River of Golden Dreams. Whistler Eco Tours (604/935-4900 or 877/988-4900, www.whistlerecotours.com) offers three-hour guided (adults $130, under age 13 $91) or self-guided (adults $90, under age 13 $60) paddles that start on Alta Lake, travel through a scenic wetlands area, and wrap up at beautiful Green Lake. On the guided tour, your guide will tell you about the area’s ecology and give you paddling tips. Both the self-guided and guided options are family-friendly and include transportation back to the village.
Whistler Eco Tours also rents single kayaks ($30 per hour) and canoes, double kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and pedal boats (all $35 per hour) from their base in Wayside Park on Alta Lake, between the village and Creekside.
You can swim in several Whistler-area lakes, although the water can be chilly. You’ll find beaches at Alpha Lake near Creekside, Alta Lake between Creekside and the village, Lost Lake near the village, and Green Lake, a large glacier-fed lake north of the village.
Prefer to do your swimming indoors? Then visit the Meadow Park Sports Centre (8625 Hwy. 99, 604/935-7529, www.whistler.ca; adults $8.50, ages 13-18 $5, ages 4-12 $4.25), a public recreational facility with a 25-meter lap pool as well as a kids’ pool with a lazy river. Located two miles (three kilometers) north of the village, the center and pool are generally open 6am-10pm daily, but call or check the website for seasonal variations.
As an alternative to skiing and snowboarding on Whistler-Blackcomb, go to the Whistler Olympic Park (5 Callaghan Valley Rd., 604/964-0060, www.whistlersportlegacies.com; late Nov.-early Apr., weather permitting) for cross-country skiing (adults $26, ages 7-18 $15), snowshoeing (adults $15.50, ages 7-18 $8.25), and tobogganing ($15 per vehicle). Gear rentals are available. The park is 15 miles (23 kilometers) from the village; follow Highway 99 south to Callaghan Valley Road.
Like many resort towns, Whistler offers several splurge-worthy dining rooms. If you’re watching your budget, you’ll need to pick your dining spots carefully, but burgers, pizza, and diner-style meals can fuel you up at moderate prices. Another money-saving option, when you’re staying in a condo or lodging with kitchen facilities, is to have one or more meals “at home” or pack a lunch for your outdoor adventures.
The Whistler Farmers Market (Upper Village Stroll, Blackcomb Village Base; 11am-4pm Sun. June-mid-Oct., 2pm-7pm Wed. July-Aug.) brings locally grown produce and other goodies to the village every weekend from late spring through fall, with an additional weekday market in midsummer.
Whistler Marketplace IGA (4330 Northlands Blvd., 604/938-2850, www.marketplaceiga.com; 9am-9pm daily) is the largest and most centrally located grocery store in the village.
Handy to pick up a snack or the toothpaste you forgot, the Whistler Grocery Store (4211 Village Square, 604/932-3628, www.whistlergrocery.com; 8am-11pm daily) keeps long hours and is the closest market to the slopes. If you’re staying in the Creekside area, your go-to grocery is Whistler’s Creekside Market (305-2071 Lake Placid Rd., 604/938-9301, www.creeksidemarket.com; 8am-10pm daily).
Long considered one of Whistler’s top restaurants, S Araxi (4222 Village Square, 604/932-4540, www.araxi.com; 5pm-late Mon.-Fri, 10am-2pm and 5pm-late Sat.-Sun.; $30-53) emphasizes regional ingredients, whether it’s fresh oysters (there is an oyster bar, with oyster happy hour 3pm-5pm daily) or produce grown on local farms. The menu might include chorizo-crusted B.C. halibut with roasted tomato fondue or pan-roasted duck breast with parmesan-mushroom polenta and caramelized pears. Sate your sweet tooth with the warm Valrhona chocolate fondant or the refreshing lemon tart.
With more than 20,000 bottles, S Bearfoot Bistro (4121 Village Green, 604/932-3433, http://bearfootbistro.com; 6pm-late daily; prix fixe $78-108 pp) has one of the largest wine cellars in western Canada, the better to pair with their modern Canadian cuisine. Accompanied by live jazz, dinners are multicourse prix fixe affairs that might start with an heirloom tomato salad with ricotta salata or scallop ceviche with pickled watermelon rind, and continue with arctic char paired with artichoke agnolotti, beef striploin with roasted bone marrow and oyster mushrooms, or za’atar-rubbed grilled quail. Of course, there are sweets, including ice cream that they whip up tableside, mixing cream with liquid nitrogen. If you prefer a lighter meal, perhaps oysters and champagne, a game burger, or duck confit with a chili-honey glaze, take a seat in their less formal champagne lounge (from 4pm Mon.-Fri., from 3pm Sat.-Sun.; $12-22), which is open from après-ski until late evening.
Overlooking the village and up 21 steps from the street, 21 Steps Kitchen + Bar (4433 Sundial Place, 604/966-2121, www.21steps.ca; 5:30pm-midnight daily; $15-36) serves crowd-pleasing comfort food, from roast chicken, pork schnitzel, and bison steak to pasta. You can also stop in for cocktails and small plates, like orange-soy braised pork ribs or cheesy baked mushroom caps.
Popular for breakfast, casual Elements Urban Tapas Parlour (102B-4359 Main St., 604/932-5569, www.elementswhistler.com; 8am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 8am-2pm and 5pm-11pm Fri.-Sat.; $9-26) serves plates to share later in the day, from a wild salmon combo plate (offering the fish cured, maple-smoked, and raw) or mini venison burgers topped with gruyère to bison short ribs paired with pineapple salsa. The restaurant is located in the Summit Hotel building.
S Aura Restaurant (2131 Lake Placid Rd., 604/966-5715, www.nitalakelodge.com; 7am-11:30am and 5:30pm-9pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-2pm and 5:30pm-9pm Sun., off-season hours vary; $20-30) at Creekside’s Nita Lake Lodge is worth a visit even if you’re not staying at this lakefront hotel, both for its fine contemporary fare and for the lovely lakeside setting. You might begin with a seasonal salad or tuna crudo dressed with citrus vinaigrette, accompanied by a watermelon martini or a Violaceus Fizz (a blend of lavender-infused gin and lemon soda). For your main course, you could try seared scallops with sweet pea puree, fresh B.C. salmon, or cider-brined pork chops with a side of grilled asparagus, cauliflower gratin, or a shareable platter of garden veggies.
tuna crudo, Aura Restaurant
A longtime favorite for Japanese fare, upscale Sushi Village (11-4340 Sundial Crescent, 604/932-3330, http://sushivillage.com; 5:30pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., noon-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm Fri.-Sun.; $16-38) has been keeping Whistler in nigiri, maki, teriyaki, and tempura since the 1980s. Another popular spot for Japanese meals is Sushi Sachi (106-4359 Main St., 604/935-5649, www.sachisushi.com; noon-2pm and 5pm-late Tues.-Fri., 5pm-late Sat.-Sun.; $13-30) at the Summit Lodge.
Part grocery store and part quick-serve Japanese eatery, Fuji Market (205-4000 Whistler Way, 604/962-6251, www.fujimarket.ca; 11am-9pm daily; $5-12) stocks ready-made sushi and cooks up ramen, tempura, and other inexpensive Japanese bites. You can pick up wasabi peas, jars of kimchi, and other Asian ingredients. It’s in a strip mall on the edge of the village, near the Whistler Conference Centre.
A life raft of good value in a sea of expensive eateries, family-friendly Pasta Lupino (121-4368 Main St., 604/905-0400, www.pastalupino.com; 11am-9pm daily; $14-18) serves a small menu of Italian classics, including spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna, and chicken parmigiana. In the evenings, pasta dinners come with soup or salad, plus homemade focaccia.
The wood-fired oven turns out traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas at Pizzeria Antico (101-4369 Main St., 604/962-9226, www.pizzeriaantico.ca; 11am-10pm Sun.-Wed., 11am-11pm Thurs.-Sat.; $13-20), like the Prosciutto con Ruccola, topped with arugula, prosciutto, tomato, and mozzarella, or the Funghi, sauced with porcini cream and layered with roasted mushrooms and onions. Several fresh salads, grilled paninis (at lunch), and pastas (at dinner) round out the menu.
Under the same ownership as Araxi, cozy Bar Oso (150-4222 Village Sq., 604/962-4540, http://baroso.ca; 11:30am-late daily; $8-25) serves up Spanish-style tapas with a B.C. twist. You might nibble wild scallop crudo with olives and oranges, a salad of roasted beets with buffalo mozzarella, or a platter of house-made charcuterie. To sip, there are local beers, sangrias, and interesting cocktails.
Like burgers? Splitz Grill (4369 Main St., 604/938-9300, www.splitzgrill.com; 11am-9pm daily; $5-13) has ’em, and they’re not just traditional beef patties. You can get lamb, bison, lentil, even salmon. Line up at the counter, order your burger, and choose from a large selection of toppings. Poutine, fries, and beer are the favored accompaniments.
For fuel-me-up breakfasts and hearty meals served with friendly sass, head for the Southside Diner (2102 Lake Placid Rd., Creekside, 604/966-0668, www.southsidediner.ca; 7am-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 7am-10pm Fri.-Sat.; $10-16), off Highway 99 in the Creekside area. Morning menus get you going with breakfast poutine (home fries topped with poached eggs, sausage, cheese curds, and gravy), “big-ass pancakes” (yes, they’re big), and the usual egg suspects. Later in the day, you can stuff yourself with burgers, sandwiches, meatloaf, or macaroni and cheese.
You might walk away with a green mustache after slurping down a fresh juice or smoothie at The Green Moustache (122-4340 Lorimer Rd., 604/962-3727, http://greenmoustachejuice.com; 8am-6pm daily; $7-10), a tiny juice bar and vegetarian eatery. In the morning, they serve breakfast bowls, like muesli or chia pudding topped with nuts, berries, and house-made almond or cashew milk. Later, order a big salad or the Buddha Bowl, a blend of rice and quinoa piled high with fresh veggies.
S Purebread (www.purebread.ca), Whistler’s best bakery, offers an irresistible array of treats, from scones and croissants to lemon crumble bars, salted caramel bars, and oversized brownies. For a savory snack, opt for a Pudgie Pie, a portable pastry that might be stuffed with goat cheese, potatoes, or other veggies. If you’re packing for a picnic, try the Dysfunction Ale bread, a hearty loaf made with spent grains from the Whistler Brewing Company. Purebread has two Whistler branches: a convenient Village location (Main St., Olympic Plaza, 604/962-1182; 8:30am-5:30pm daily) and their original Function Junction shop (1-1040 Millar Creek Rd., 604/938-3013; 8:30am-5pm daily) on the south side of town.
Whistler accommodations include a range of hotels and condominium buildings. Hotels provide more services, such as on-site restaurants, ski valets, and concierge staff; some, but not all, have kitchenettes or in-room fridges and microwaves. Renting a condo is often less expensive, particularly for a family, and you’ll have a kitchen where you can prepare some meals. Many Whistler hotels charge for overnight parking, so factor that fee into your lodging budget.
Whistler has two “peak” seasons. The main high season is during the winter for skiing and snowboarding, which typically begins in late November and continues until April. There’s also a “mini peak” during July and August, when visitors come for hiking, biking, and other summer activities. The most expensive time to stay at Whistler is during the Christmas-New Year holiday, when rates soar. The February-March school holiday weeks are also pricey. During the rest of the year, lodging rates are usually lowest midweek.
Check the Tourism Whistler website (www.whistler.com) for lodging deals, particularly if you’re making last-minute plans. The Whistler-Blackcomb website (www.whistlerblackcomb.com) sometimes posts discounts on accommodations as well.
Built as part of the Athletes Village for the 2010 Winter Olympics, the HI-Whistler Hostel (1035 Legacy Way, 604/962-0025 or 866/762-4122, www.hihostels.ca; $33-38 dorm, $82-134 d) still feels new, offering dorm beds as well as good-value, basic, but modern private rooms with flat-screen TVs and en suite baths—worth considering even if you don’t normally stay in a hostel. Dorms sleep eight in four bunk beds, each with reading lights, electrical outlets, lockers, and shared washrooms. Parking and Wi-Fi are free, and common areas include a café, a TV room, a lounge with a pool table, a big shared kitchen, and an outdoor terrace. Rates are highest December through February, when the hostel can have more of a ski-party atmosphere. Summer is typically quieter, when staff organize guided hikes, local brewery tours, and other activities. The hostel is five miles (8 kilometers) south of Whistler Village; at the Function Junction crossroads, turn east onto Cheakamus Lake Road. B.C. Transit buses to the village stop out front.
Catering to skiers and snowboarders in winter, and to cyclists and other active guests in summer, the S AAVA Whistler Hotel (4005 Whistler Way, 604/932-2522 or 800/663-5644, www.aavawhistlerhotel.com; $135-450 d, parking $19) will loan you a complimentary GoPro camera to record your day’s adventures (neat, right?). While it’s not upscale (hotel staff say, “We don’t valet your car, but we do valet your bike”), this 192-room lodging feels sociable, with several lobby seating areas and a communal worktable with a charging station. There’s space to lounge on the outdoor deck, too, around the compact pool and hot tub. Outfitted with one king, two queens, or a queen plus a sofa bed, the guest rooms are crisp and modern, with minifridges, safes, and Keurig coffeemakers; the prime top-floor units have vaulted ceilings. Wi-Fi and local calls are free. You can walk to the Whistler base in about 10 minutes.
Feeling funky? The boutique 41-room Adara Hotel (4122 Village Green, 604/905-4009 or 866/502-3272, www.adarahotel.com; $119-329 d, parking $20) goes beyond typical ski-lodge style, starting from its lobby, furnished with curvaceous orange banquettes, a massive stone fireplace, and stylized antler sculptures; you can grab coffee and a breakfast bar here in the morning, or give the resident dog a pat. Out on the sundeck is a small hot tub and summer-only pool. Standard rooms have electric fireplaces, French press coffeemakers, minifridges, microwaves, and modern baths with rain showers, but the coolest units are the lofts, with a bedroom upstairs and a living area below. Wi-Fi is included.
The three-story Listel Hotel Whistler (4121 Village Green, 604/932-1133 or 800/663-5472, www.listelhotel.com; $139-369 d, parking $20) is simple but comfortable, with a quiet location off the Village Stroll yet close to the lifts at the Whistler base. Most of the 98 rooms are standard units with two queen beds, free Wi-Fi, coffeemakers, and minifridges. There’s a hot tub (but no pool) on the outdoor patio. Rates include continental breakfast. The excellent Bearfoot Bistro (604/932-3433, http://bearfootbistro.com; 6pm-late daily; prix fixe $78-108 pp) is on the property.
At the serene boutique Summit Lodge and Spa (4359 Main St., 604/932-2778 or 888/913-8811, www.summitlodge.com; $130-479 d, parking $20), the 81 studio and one-bedrooms suites, with cherry furnishings, all have kitchenettes. Wi-Fi and local calls are included, and you can borrow a complimentary bike to cycle around town. The Asian-style Taman Sari Royal Heritage Spa (604/938-5982, www.tamansarispa.com) uses traditional Javanese herbs in many of its treatments. Other hotel amenities include a sauna, hot tub, and year-round outdoor pool. You’re surrounded by lots of good restaurants, and it’s a 10- to 15-minute walk to the lifts.
Most of the studio units at the 84-room Whistler Pinnacle Hotel (4319 Main St., 604/938-3218 or 888/999-8986, www.whistlerpinnacle.com; $149-349 d, parking $19), a quieter older property off the Village Stroll, have full kitchens (handy if you don’t want to eat out for every meal), gas fireplaces, included Wi-Fi and local calls, and modern baths with whirlpool tubs to soak away any adventure-induced aches and pains. Units on the fourth floor feel larger, with vaulted ceilings. There’s a guest laundry and a small outdoor lap pool. Quattro Italian Restaurant (604/905-4844, http://quattrorestaurants.com; 5:30pm-10pm daily; $24-48) and the modern French Alta Bistro (604/932-2582, www.altabistro.com; 5:30pm-late daily; $29-39) are the on-property dining options.
Though it’s a chain hotel, family-friendly Hilton Whistler Resort & Spa (4050 Whistler Way, 604/932-1982 or 800/515-4050, www.hiltonwhistler.com; $141-450 d, parking $32-36) feels surprisingly local, with aboriginal art in the lobby and a great location just a five-minute walk from the lifts. The 287 guest rooms, in two towers, are among the largest in Whistler Village, ranging from standard units and studios (with kitchenettes) up to three-bedroom suites. The outdoor pool is open year-round, as are the two hot tubs; in summer, you can play tennis on-site. Rates include Wi-Fi and local phone calls.
With a solicitous staff and all sorts of amenities, S Four Seasons Whistler Hotel (4591 Blackcomb Way, 604/935-3400, www.fourseasons.com; $399-539 d, $675-1,399 suite, parking $39) is among Whistler’s top resort hotels. Decorated in ski-lodge earth tones, the 273 rooms and suites have gas fireplaces, big closets, minifridges, and flat-screen TVs; ask for an upper-floor unit for slope-side views. If you haven’t gotten enough exercise on the mountain, you can work out in the 24-hour fitness room or swim in the heated outdoor pool. The three hot tubs and eucalyptus steam room are popular après-ski, as is the library-style Sidecut Bar. Located in Whistler’s Upper Village, the Four Seasons isn’t a ski-in, ski-out property, but the hotel offers a free ski concierge, so you can leave your gear slope-side. A complimentary car service can take you around town.
Four Seasons Whistler Hotel
Like a grand mountain lodge, the S Fairmont Chateau Whistler (4599 Chateau Blvd., off Blackcomb Way, 604/938-8000 or 800/606-8244, www.fairmont.com; $299-619 d, parking $35-39) keeps you comfortable, whether you’re in your room, exploring the property, or out in the village. The 550 rooms and suites, some with views of the slopes, have down duvets, fluffy bathrobes, flat-screen TVs, and Keurig coffeemakers. The Fairmont charges a daily resort fee ($12 per room), which covers most of the things you’d want to do, including Internet access, use of the indoor and outdoor pools and the well-equipped health club, yoga classes, tennis, a shuttle to take you to various village destinations, and valet service for your skis, bikes, or golf clubs. The Mallard Lounge is popular for après-ski cocktails, and the hotel has several other dining outlets, including The Grill Room (6pm-9pm daily; $33-59) for steak and seafood and the more casual Wildflower Restaurant (7am-10:30am and 6pm-9pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-11am and 6pm-9pm Sat.-Sun.; $22-49).
You can’t stay much closer to the lifts than at the 121-unit all-suite Pan Pacific Whistler Mountainside (4320 Sundial Crescent, 604/905-2999 or 888/905-9995, www.panpacific.com; $279-689 d, parking $28-32), steps from Blackcomb’s Excalibur gondola. Decorated with cherry-hued Craftsman-style furnishings, the studio, one-bedroom, and two-bedroom units all have full kitchens, gas fireplaces, flat-screen TVs, and DVD players. The studios nominally sleep four, with a queen-size Murphy bed and a sleep sofa, but the larger suites are more comfortable for families. Other amenities include a heated outdoor saltwater pool, two hot tubs, complimentary Wi-Fi, and free local phone calls. The Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub (604/905-4047, www.dubhlinngate.com; 8am-1am daily; $14-25) is popular for drinks and pub fare, with more than 25 beers on tap and live music most nights.
Slightly farther from the gondolas than its sister property, the Pan Pacific Whistler Village Centre (4299 Blackcomb Way, 604/966-5500 or 888/966-5575, www.panpacific.com; $169-539 d, parking $28-32) has a more modern boutique feel, but similar amenities: suites ranging from studios to three bedrooms with full kitchens, a saltwater lap pool, two hot tubs, a sauna, and a fitness facility. Rates include breakfast, Wi-Fi, local calls, and a complimentary shuttle to get around the village. You can store your ski or snowboard gear at the Pan Pacific Mountainside.
Set on a lake in the Creekside area, S Nita Lake Lodge (2131 Lake Placid Rd., 604/966-5700, www.nitalakelodge.com; $289-559 d, suites $409-849, parking $20-30) is a beautiful setting for a stay in any season. The 77 spacious contemporary suites—studio, one-, and two-bedroom units on four floors—have fireplaces, compact kitchenettes hidden in an armoire, and modern baths with rain showers and soaker tubs; the best units have lake views. You can choose all kinds of activities, from lounging in the rooftop hot tubs to kayaking, canoeing, or stand-up paddleboarding on the lake, or riding up the Valley Trail on the complimentary bicycles. There’s a full-service spa, as well as three restaurants, including the more formal Aura Restaurant (7am-11:30am and 5:30pm-9pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-2pm and 5:30pm-9pm Sun., off-season hours vary; $20-30) overlooking the lake, Cure Lounge (11:30am-11pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-11pm Sun.; $13-25), and casual Fix Café (6:30am-3:30pm daily; $5-13), which serves pastries, coffee, and sandwiches, giving you plenty of dining options. The hotel offers a free shuttle to the village or the Creekside gondola.
kayaks on the dock, Nita Lake Lodge
The Riverside Resort (8018 Mons Rd., 604/905-5533, www.parkbridge.com) has several lodging options, including campsites for tents and RVs, yurts, and sturdy log cabins. It’s located two miles (3.5 kilometers) north of the village.
The 14 family-friendly cabins ($210-250), with solid wood furnishings, have a living room, small kitchen, bedroom with a queen bed, and bath on the main level, plus a sleeping loft with two twin beds. They’re equipped with electricity and even a flat-screen TV. The yurts ($105-145) are more rustic, but they still have electricity and heat. Sleeping up to five, most have a bunk bed with a single over a double bed, and either a futon couch or a separate single with a trundle bed. Washrooms with showers are a short walk away. RV campsites ($52-65) include both fully and partially serviced sites. There’s a quiet wooded walk-in tent campground ($23-40) with sites along the river.
The campground’s main building has a small market and café; bicycle rentals are available. Other amenities include a guest laundry, a kids’ playground, a volleyball court, and a putting course. The Valley Trail crosses the campground property, so you can follow it into town.
You can book many condo accommodations through the Tourism Whistler (www.whistler.com) and Whistler-Blackcomb (www.whistlerblackcomb.com) websites and through many of the standard online booking services for hotels. You can also find condos through Airbnb (www.airbnb.com).
Check locally based rental agencies, including alluraDirect (604/707-6700 or 866/425-5872, www.alluradirect.com), which sometimes offer deals that the larger booking services don’t have.
Tourism Whistler (www.whistler.com) should be your starting point for information about the Whistler region. The website has lots of details about the area, both on and off the mountain, and they run the year-round Whistler Visitor Centre (4230 Gateway Dr., 604/935-3357 or 877/991-9988, www.whistler.com/whistler-visitor-centre) in the village, which supplies maps, answers questions, and books accommodations and activities. Hours vary seasonally, but the visitors center is open at least 8am-6pm daily; it stays open until 8pm or 10pm on busy weekends and holiday periods.
Whistler-Blackcomb (604/967-8950 or 800/766-0449, www.whistlerblackcomb.com) books lift tickets, equipment rentals, ski and snowboard lessons, and accommodations (reservations 604/296-5316 or 888/403-4727) and can provide information about other mountain activities in every season. Check the website for toll-free reservations numbers from many different countries.
The Whistler Health Care Centre (4380 Lorimer Rd., 604/932-4911, www.vch.ca; 8am-10pm daily) provides emergency medical services to both locals and visitors. Doctors are on-call after hours.
The Whistler area has several medical clinics that will see visitors for minor issues, including the Whistler Medical Clinic (4380 Lorimer Rd., 604/932-3977, www.whistlermedicalclinic.com) and Town Plaza Medical Clinic (40-4314 Main St., 604/905-7089, www.medicalclinicwhistler.com).
Rexall (103-4360 Lorimer Rd., 604/932-2303; 4212 Village Square, 604/932-4251, www.rexall.ca; 9am-7pm daily) has two Whistler pharmacies. Shoppers Drug Mart (121-4295 Blackcomb Way, 604/905-5666, www.shoppersdrugmart.ca; 9am-9pm daily) also provides pharmacy services.
Allow about two hours to make the 75-mile (120-kilometer) drive between Vancouver and Whistler along the spectacular Sea-to-Sky Highway.
From downtown Vancouver, take West Georgia Street to the Lions Gate Bridge. Watch the signs carefully as you approach Stanley Park en route to the bridge to stay in the proper lane. The center lane on the three-lane bridge reverses its travel direction at different times of day, typically creating two travel lanes into the city in the morning and two travel lanes toward the North Shore during the afternoon rush hour.
After you cross the Lions Gate Bridge, bear left toward Marine Drive west/Highway 1/Highway 99. Enter Marine Drive and stay in the far right lane to take the first right onto Taylor Way (the sign says “Whistler”). Follow Taylor Way up the hill, and exit left onto Highway 1 west. Continue on Highway 1 until it merges with Highway 99 (the Sea-to-Sky Hwy.). Stay on Highway 99 through Squamish and into Whistler.
A dramatic way to travel between Vancouver and Whistler, if your budget allows, is by floatplane, which takes you above Howe Sound, the Gulf Islands, and the surrounding peaks.
Harbour Air (604/274-1277 or 800/665-0212, www.harbourair.com; 45 minutes; one-way adults $200) flies twice daily in each direction between the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre (1055 Canada Pl., behind the Vancouver Convention Centre, 604/274-1277) and Green Lake (8069 Nicklaus North Blvd.), two miles (3 kilometers) north of Whistler Village. There’s a free shuttle between the Green Lake terminal and the village. The shuttles operate in conjunction with the flight schedules.
To visit Whistler without a car, Greyhound (800/661-8747, www.greyhound.ca; about 2.5 hours; one-way adults $17-38) operates several buses a day between Vancouver and Whistler and is the least expensive option. In Vancouver, the bus depot is at Pacific Central Station (1150 Station St.). In Whistler, the bus stops in Creekside (2029 London Ln.) and Whistler Village (4230 Gateway Dr.).
Pacific Coach Lines (604/662-7575 or 800/661-1725, www.pacificcoach.com; one-way adults $55, ages 5-11 $27.50) runs buses several times daily between downtown Vancouver and Whistler Village. The trip takes 2.5 hours. The downtown stops are on Burrard Street at Alberni Street outside the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, and at Melville Street adjacent to the Hyatt Vancouver. You can also take their YVR Whistler SkyLynx bus (one-way adults $74, ages 5-11 $37) directly between Vancouver International Airport and Whistler, which takes three hours.
Whistler Village is a pedestrian zone, so you have to leave your car outside the village proper. Whistler has several public parking lots where you can park all day.
Day lots 1 to 5, on Blackcomb Way near Lorimer Road, are closest to Whistler Village. Lots 4 and 5 are always free. Lots 1, 2, and 3, which are closer to the lifts, are paid lots ($2 per hour, $8 per day) until 5pm; they’re free from 5pm to 3am. Closer to the Blackcomb base area, off Glacier Lane, day lots 6, 7, and 8 are also free. From November through March, you can’t park overnight in any of the day lots; between April and October, you can park for up to 72 hours.
In the Creekside area, you can park free in the Creekside base underground garage. Follow London Lane off Highway 99.
Public paid parking is available at Whistler Conference Centre (4010 Whistler Way; per hour/day $1/$10, 24-hour maximum) and Whistler Public Library (4329 Main St.; per hour/day $1/$10, 24-hour maximum).
B.C. Transit (604/932-4020, http://bctransit.com/whistler; $2.50 pp) runs several bus routes through the Whistler area that are useful if you’re staying outside of the central Whistler Village. The Whistler Creek route travels between the village and Creekside, and the Valley Connector links many of Whistler’s residential neighborhoods with the Whistler Gondola Exchange, where you can board the mountain gondola.
Two bus routes are free during the winter season, including the Upper Village/Benchlands route that can take you to the village from condos in those neighborhoods, and the Marketplace Shuttle between the Whistler Gondola Exchange and the Marketplace shopping center.
The Valley Connector route operates 5:15am-3:30am daily. The other routes vary seasonally; call or check the website for hours.
Whistler has two local taxi companies: Whistler Resort Cabs (604/938-1515, www.resortcabs.com) and Whistler Taxi (604/932-3333, www.whistlertaxi.com). Both operate 24 hours daily. Taxi fares average $5 within Whistler Village, $10 between the village and Creekside, and $15 between the village and other Whistler neighborhoods.