DISTANCE: 1.5km (1 mile)
TIME: 2–4 hours
START: Iglesia San Ignacio
END: MAMBA
POINTS TO NOTE: Due to its close proximity to Plaza de Mayo, San Telmo is well serviced by public transportation. Metro lines C, E and A run adjacent to the neighborhood, and the metrobus passes along nearby Avenida 9 de Julio. Plus there are many bus lines criss-crossing San Telmo itself. This barrio is best visited at weekends, especially on a Sunday afternoon when Plaza Dorrego is buzzing with people and Calle Defensa is lined with street vendors.
San Telmo started out as a barrio in the 17th century when it was first populated by dockworkers. In the following years everyone from African slaves and Jesuit priests to bohemian artists and musicians have called the neighborhood home. It’s true that for most of San Telmo’s early history it was rife with poverty; however, if the enclave of today is any indicator, what the neighborhood lacked in material wealth it more than made up for with cultural richness.
Che Guevara mural
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
The 19th-century buildings still stand-ing in San Telmo are part of a building boom that occurred after former Buenos Aires mayor Juan Manuel de Rosas was removed from power in 1852. The poorest tenements were demolished and the stately “Rosista” buildings of the time gave way to new homes and apartments designed in the European Baroque style, complete with French balconies and yawning windows. This lovely architectural aesthetic is window dressing for a Buenos Aires neighborhood whose spirit is frighteningly easy to fall in love with.
St. Ignatius Church
The route starts at Iglesia San Ignacio 1 [map] (Bolívar 225; mass: Mon–Fri 1pm and 7pm, Sat 6pm, Sun 7pm; guided tours: Mon and Wed 4pm, 5.30pm and 7pm), in what is technically the Monserrat neighborhood. However, Calle Defensa (and its famous Sunday street fair), are most decidedly associated with San Telmo, so visitors will want to experience all of it. The church itself, with its whitewashed exterior (and interior) is impressive, but its distinction is that it is the oldest in the city (1675) and one of the few remaining colonial buildings in Buenos Aires. The interior is as cavernous as any Roman Catholic cathedral, but aside from ornate altars complete with golden columns, the bare white walls are rather understated.
Busy Calle Defensa
Buenos Aires City Tourist Board
On the opposite corner of the church, at Calles Bolívar and Alsina, is the Librería de Avila (Alsina 500; tel: 11-4343-3374; Mon−Sat), a characterful bookstore selling both new and rare editions as well as English-language books downstairs. From there walk one block east on Alsina to Calle Defensa, the most iconic cobbled street in the neighborhood and the center of the weekend action. At its northeast corner sits the Basilica San Francisco 2 [map], a Franciscan church built in the neoclassical style and consecrated in 1783. In 1911 it was redesigned to add a Bavarian-Baroque flourish more in keeping with the neighborhood style. The church is currently closed for renovation, but the adjacent San Roque chapel is open to the public.
San Telmo buskers
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
Calle Defensa
Calle Defensa, cobbled the entire 10 blocks from Plaza de Mayo south to Plaza Dorrego, is the pulsating heart of San Telmo’s old quarter. And during the weekly Sunday street feria (10am–5pm) this entire route is lined with street vendors and artisans selling just about everything: clothing, woodcrafts, jewelry, incense, handbags, leather goods, books, records, souvenirs and much, much more. If you do come during the feria, take your time, as this stroll should be of the leisurely variety, perfect for a lazy Sunday.
Continue south on Defensa past Avenida Belgrano. The cobbled street then narrows a little and takes on a decidedly French feel with 19th-century balconied facades and elegant black-painted streetlamps. On the northeast corner here is the Convento Santa Domingo (Our Lady of the Rosary; mass: Mon–Fri 12.30pm, Sat 6.30pm, Sun 11am). Consecrated in 1783, the convent is the resting place of Manuel Belgrano, a hero in Argentina’s War for Independence. Further south on Defensa, just past Calle Venezuela, is the palm-flanked Instituto de Historia Militar (Military History Institute; Defensa 628) − a lovely example of a Rosista-era building.
Mafalda’s bench
Buenos Aires City Tourist Board
Across the street is a small plaza now home to the Tallers de Movimiento Afrocultural (see 1), a political organization promoting Afro-Latino culture in South America, and there are live performances by its members on Sundays. This is also the start of a line of antique stores that will enthuse the most fussy of connoisseurs. First up is Fior di Ligi (Defensa 517), a tiny establishment specializing in crystal stemware, silver flatware and women’s 1930s fashion. If you are feeling peckish at this point stop in at El Rey del Chori (see 2), one of the only outdoor parillas in the area.
Continue south to the corner of Chile and Defensa, and on the northeast corner is the famous bench where sits a small statue of Argentina’s most beloved comic strip character, Mafalda 3 [map], a frizzy-haired, soup-hating six-year-old girl with a mind for social analysis. You won’t be able to resist taking a picture with her (but be prepared to wait in line). Just east of Defensa, on Chile, is a block lined with bar and restaurants all with outdoor seating and aggressive hosts and hostesses trying to corral you to a table. None of these establishments are particularly authentic, but there are a couple of charming establishments on the western side of Defensa on Chile, notably Bar Seddon (see 3).
Mercado San Telmo
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
Mercado San Telmo
Continue South on Defensa and cross Avenida Independencia, one of the major east-west arteries in San Telmo. This is San Telmo’s bohemian heart, with boutique clothing stores galore, such as Plop (corner of San Lor-enzo and Defensa, for more information, click here), an indie-fashion retailer selling locally designed fashions for men and women. On the opposite side of the street is El Desnivel (see 4), a smallish parilla that also does take-out.
Walk south from Desnivel past Calle Estados Unidos. Continue another half a block until you get to Mercado San Telmo 4 [map] (Carlos Calvo 430; daily 8.30am–8.30pm), the most famous indoor market in the city − and deservedly so. This maze of produce stalls, mini-parillas, gourmet coffee kiosks, sandwich counters, vintage clothing booths, toy sellers, and row after row of antique stalls is by far the best place for budget antiquing. By entering from Defensa (there are two other entrances, on Calles Estados Unidos and Carlos Calvo) you’ll stumble across Antiguo Balcón (Wed–Sun noon–8pm), a tiny store on the aisle corner selling curios like old musical instruments and antique weapons.
Antiques store
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
Plaza Dorrego
Exit through Mercado San Telmo’s Defensa entrance and walk south half a block, crossing Calle Carlos Calvo. Continue one more block to reach the relatively tiny Plaza Dorrego. On most days hippies and craftsmen peddle their wares around here, but on weekends it is positively overflowing with genuine artisans.
Browsing the Sunday flea market
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
The plaza is a great area in which to pull up a seat at a terrace table and enjoy a chopp (draught) beer and watch the world go by. Those who prefer their beverages non-alcoholic would do well to stop in at Bar Plaza Dorrego (see 5). But this is just one of many establishments lining the plaza. Aside from upscale antiques dealers,such as Gabriel del Campo (north side of Plaza Dorrego), there are more options where you can grab a bite and a drink. Some, like Cerveza Patagonia, a chain bar selling one of Argentina’s most popular (and pricey) local brews, are fairly corporate. Others are local institutions with dining and dance shows every night of the week like Todo Mundo (see 6), at the west end of the plaza. If it’s ice-cream you’re after then your best bet is Heladería Iceland (see 7).
One block south of the plaza on the corner of Calle Defensa and Avenida San Juan is the Museo de Arte Moderno Buenos Aires 5 [map] (MAMBA, Modern Art Museum; San Juan 350; tel: 11-4361-6919; Tue–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat–Sun 11am–8pm; free on Tue; guided group visits in English can be pre-booked), featuring works by Argentine and international artists from the mid-20th century onwards, notably Josef Albers and Wassily Kandinsky.
Bar Plaza Dorrego, a slice of ‘old San Telmo’
Yadid Levy/Apa Publications
Food and Drink
1 Tallers de Movimiento Afrocultural
Defensa 535; www.movimientoafrocultural.blogspot.com.ar; food and drinks Sat–Sun; $
Part of promoting Afro-Latino culture inevitably involves music and dance. There are capoeira dance classes held here most days of the week, as well as live music (reggae, rock, jazz, etc.) every weekend. It’s a fun time and a pretty lively crowd shows up on Sundays. Basic food (empanadas, etc.) is served, as is beer − the perfect refreshment to enjoy the surroundings.
2 El Rey del Chori
Calle México at Defensa; Sun only; $
This outdoor parilla is located in a former parking lot, but don’t let the locale fool you. People pack this place up on Sundays lured by the good-value sirloin steaks, choripán and bondiola sandwiches, as well as by the raucous live music.
3 Bar Seddon
Defensa 695; tel: 11 4392 3700; daily; $
This is one of the more popular café-bars in San Telmo, attracting tourists and locals alike. It’s a venue-suits-all: a place for young professionals meeting up for a beer after work, a quiet spot to read a book and sip a coffee, a bustling dinner locale, and a packed late-night bar. What ties it all together is the homeliness of the décor: wooden bar, checkered floors and high ceilings.
4 Desnivel
Defensa 855; tel: 11-4307 2489; daily; $–$$
Desnivel is a great unheralded parilla offering an efficient take-out service. Stop in for a quick choripán or an excellent fried chicken empanada. Those with more time on their hands (and bigger appetites) can sit down for a feast of grilled meats prepared by master parilleros. Friendly staff.
5 Bar Plaza Dorrego
Defensa 1098; daily; $
This corner bar is what “old San Telmo” is all about: black-and-white checkered floors, L-shaped bar and wooden tables make this the perfect spot for a submarino (hot milk with a chocolate bar) or a picada (appetizer plate). The antique bottles lining the walls and pictures of Gardel behind the bar only add to the effect.
6 Todo Mundo
Aieta 1095, Plaza Dorrego; tel: 11-4362 2354 www.todomundosantelmo.com.ar; daily; $–$$
This dining and drinking spot enjoys a great location at the southwestern corner of Plaza Dorrego, in a building dating back to 1913. On the menu you’ll find all the Argentine stalwarts but the real reason to come is for the dinner-dance shows every night of the week. The musical style changes most evenings, from jazz to tango and salsa to rock.
7 Heladería Iceland
Defensa 1105; daily; $
Gourmet ice cream shop with a cool vibe; go for the dulce de leche. Also does coffee.