Saronic Gulf Islands

Why Go?

The Saronic Gulf Islands (Νησιά του Σαρωνικού) dot the waters nearest Athens and offer a fast track to Greek island life. As with all Greek islands, each of the Saronics has a unique feel and culture, so you can hop between classical heritage, resort beaches, exquisite architecture and remote escapism.

Aegina is home to a spectacular Doric temple and ruined Byzantine village, while nearby pine-clad Angistri feels protected and peaceful outside of the booming midsummer months. Further south, Poros, with its forested hinterland, curves only a few hundred metres from the Peloponnese. The Saronic showpiece, Hydra, is a gorgeous car-free island with a port of carefully preserved stone houses rising from a chic, history-charged harbour. Deepest south of all, pine-scented Spetses also has a vibrant nautical history and pretty town architecture, plus myriad aqua coves only minutes from the Peloponnese.

When to Go

AApr & May The islands awaken after winter; come for flower-filled Easter.

AJun Celebrate Miaoulia in Hydra with sparkling waters and warm weather.

ASep The best-kept secret: clear skies, thinning crowds and Spetses' Armata celebration.

Best Places to Eat

A On the Verandah

A Techne

A Oraia Hydra

A Aspros Gatos

A Miltos

A Akrogialia

Best Places to Stay

A Poseidonion Grand Hotel

A Hydra Hotel

A Rosy’s Little Village

A Orloff Resort

A Sirene Blue Resort

Saronic Gulf Islands Highlights

1 Hydra Bouncing between the gorgeous port, with its excellent museums and stylish scene, and the island’s deserted trails and ubiquitous swimming rocks.

2 Aegina Delving into ancient history at the beautiful Temple of Aphaia and Byzantine village, Paleohora, then sipping seaside cocktails.

3 Spetses Taste testing your way through top restaurants, tracing the region's history in the town's museums, or cycling the island's ring road to dip into sparkling bays.

4 Angistri Getting away from it all in the low season, when the beaches are most tranquil.

5 Poros Exploring the peaceful, forested interior and strolling the cafe-lined quay in town, or trying out the family-run tavernas.

Aegina ΑΙΓΙΝΑ

Pop 13,056

Beyond its bustling port, Aegina has the seductive, easygoing character of a typical Greek island, but with the added bonus of more than its fair share of prestigious ancient sites. Weekending Athenians spice up the mix of laid-back locals and island-dwelling commuters who use the island like an Athens suburb. Unique Aegina treats include a special – and delicious – pistachio nut, the splendid 5th-century Temple of Aphaia and the magical Byzantine Paleohora ruins.

Aegina was the leading maritime power of the Saronic Gulf during the 7th century BC, when it grew wealthy through trade and political ascendancy. The island made a major contribution to the Greek victory over the Persian fleet at the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC. Despite this solidarity with the Athenian state, the latter invaded in 459 BC out of jealousy of Aegina’s wealth and status, and of its liaison with Sparta. Aegina never regained its glory, although in the early 19th century it played a bold part in the defeat of the Turks and was the temporary capital of a partly liberated Greece from 1827 to 1829.

8Getting There & Away

Aegina’s main port, Aegina Town, has conventional ferries that you book online at www.saronicferries.gr. They are operated by Hellenic Seaways (%conventional ferry 22970 22945, high-speed ferry 22970 26777; www.hsw.gr), Nova Ferries (%22970 24200; www.novaferries.gr), Agios Nektarios (ANES Ferries; %Aegina 22970 25625, Piraeus 21042 25625; www.anes.gr), 2wayferries and Leves Lines. Book high-speed hydrofoils with Hellenic Seaways and Aegean Flying Dolphins (%22970 25800) to/from Piraeus and Angistri. Ferries dock at the large outer quay, with hydrofoils at the smaller inner quay.

Evoikos Lines (%Agia Marina 22970 32234, Piraeus 21048 21002, Souvala 22970 52210; www.evoikoslines.gr) serves Aegina’s smaller ports Agia Marina and Souvala, and Piraeus in high season only.

Even in winter, high-speed ferries from Piraeus get fully booked for weekends: book ahead.

Angistri Express makes several daily trips in high season to Skala and Mylos on Angistri. It leaves from midway along Aegina harbour, where timetables are displayed.

Water taxis (%6944535659, 6972229720, 22970 91387) to Piraeus cost about €40 one way, regardless of the number of people.

Boat Services From Aegina

Destination	Port	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Angistri (Skala)	Aegina Town	20min	2.80	1-2 daily
Angistri (Skala)*	Aegina Town	10min	6	4-6 daily
Angistri (Mylos)*	Aegina Town	10min	6	5 daily
Methana	Aegina Town	40min	5.70	2-3 daily
Piraeus	Aegina Town	1hr 10min	8-10	hourly
Piraeus*	Aegina Town	40min	14	6 daily
Piraeus	Agia Marina	1hr	10	3-4 daily, summer
Piraeus	Souvala	1hr 35min	8	3-4 daily, summer
Poros	Aegina Town	1hr 50min	8.50	2-3 daily

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Bus

Buses from Aegina Town run several times a day on three routes across the island. Departure times are displayed outside the ticket office on Plateia Ethnegersias (Ethnegersias Sq); you must buy tickets there. Visit www.aeginagreece.com for details.

Agia Marina (€2, 30 minutes), via Paleohora (€2, 15 minutes) and Temple of Aphaia (€2, 25 minutes)

Perdika (€1.80, 15 minutes)

Vagia (€1.80, 25 minutes) via Souvala (€1.80, 20 minutes)

Car, Motorcycle & Bicycle

Numerous outfits hire out vehicles. Prices start from €35 per day for cars, €17 for a 50cc motorcycle and €8 for bicycles.

Karagiannis Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 28780; www.aeginatravel.gr; Pan Irioti 44; h9am-2pm & 5-9pm) Rents vehicles and arranges tours and tickets.

Sklavenas Rent A Car ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 22892; Kazantzaki 5; h9am-2pm & 5-9pm) For cars, 4WDs, scooters, quads and bikes. In Aegina Town, located on the road near the Temple of Apollo. Also has a branch in Agia Marina.

Taxi

Taxi (%Aegina Town 22970 22010, Agia Marina 22970 32107) Taxis around Aegina island.

Aegina Town Αίγινα

Pop 8905

The sparkling harbour of Aegina Town is backed by a buzzing promenade of people, motorbikes, cafes and restaurants. As you wander back into the narrow town streets, with kids riding bikes and laundry strung from balconies, small-town Greek life takes over again.

The parallel streets backing the harbour, Irioti and Rodi, are crammed with shops of every kind and a few 19th-century neoclassical buildings intermix with whitewashed houses. Ancient Greece is represented by the impressive ruins of the Temple of Apollo, just north of the harbour.

1Sights

Temple of ApolloRUINS

(Kolona; GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 22248; http://odysseus.culture.gr; adult/child €3/free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, reduced hours Nov-Apr)

Northwest of the port, ruined walls, cisterns and broken pillars in honey-coloured stone are lorded over by a solitary surviving column. It’s all that’s left of a 5th-century-BC temple that was once part of an ancient acropolis (built on a prehistoric site). The informative Sanctuary Museum has translations in English and German.

Folklore MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 26401; http://laografiko.gr; S Rodi; €2; h10am-12.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm Fri & Sat)

Peruse historic clothing, housewares and artwork re-creating the mood of old-time island life.

zFestivals & Events

Aegina Fistiki FestFOOD & DRINK

(www.aeginafistikifest.gr; hSep)

Fistiki means 'pistachio' and this three-day brouhaha celebrates Aegina’s famous Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) pistachio through music, art and culinary contests.

4Sleeping

Aegina offers a range of solid, simple guesthouses, apartment complexes and a handful of hotels. Book ahead at weekends.

Electra PensionPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 26715; www.aegina-electra.gr; Leonardou Lada 25; r €45; aW)

There are no views from this small whitewashed pension, but rooms are impeccable and comfy in a quiet corner of the town centre. It outclasses nearby hotels by a long way.

Marianna StudiosPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 25650; www.aeginastudiosmarianna.com; Kiverniou 16-18; s/d €35/40, d/tr with kitchen €40/45; a)

Simple, basic rooms and very friendly owners create a top-notch budget choice. Some rooms have balconies or overlook a quiet, leafy garden alongside an interior courtyard. One room has a kitchen.

oHotel RastoniHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 27039; www.rastoni.gr; Odos Stratigou Dimitri Petriti 31; d/tr/q €80/120/130; paiW)

Spacious rooms have balconies overlooking a lovely garden and the Temple of Apollo. Generous breakfasts and friendly staff round out the experience. Find it in a residential neighbourhood a few minutes north of the harbour.

Aegina HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 28501; www.aeginahotel.gr; Stratigou Dimitriou Petriti 23; d/tr from €60/70; aW)

This 19-room hotel sits about 500m back from the harbour and has clean, well-appointed rooms with refrigerators and TVs.

Aeginitiko ArchontikoPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 24968; www.aeginitikoarchontiko.gr; cnr Ag Nikolaou & Thomaidou 1; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast from €50/60/70/100; aW)

The rich character of this centrally located old mansion translates through period 19th-century features, a charming salon and courtyard and a splendid breakfast. Rooms, however, are a bit cramped and worn, and bathrooms are basic. Sea views from the rooftop terrace.

Fistikies Holiday ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 23783; www.fistikies.gr; Logiotatidou 1; studios €90, 4-person apts €120; paWs)

This complex of tidy, family-friendly apartments was built in 2007 on the southern edge of town, inland from the football field. Spacious apartments have DVD players and terraces overlooking the pool.

5Eating

The harbour-front restaurants make for lazy world-watching, but are not particularly outstanding, unless you hit the unvarnished ouzeries (places serving ouzo and light snacks).

Aegina’s pistachio nuts are on sale everywhere (from €7 for 500g, depending on quality).

EliaMEDITERRANEAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22975 00205; Koumoundourou 4; mains €6-9; hnoon-4pm & 6-11pm, hours reduced winter)

Burrow into the backstreets to find this excellent restaurant that's popular with locals. Imaginative, fresh specialities include its pistachio pesto and the pittas of the day.

GelladakisMEZEDHES€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 27308; Pan Irioti 45; dishes €7-12; hlunch & dinner)

Ensconced behind the noisy midharbour fish market, this vibrant joint is always thronged with people tucking into charcoal-fired octopus or sardines, plus other classic mezedhes (appetisers).

TsiasTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 23529; Dimokratias 47; mains €7-10; hlunch & dinner)

Harbourside eating at its best. Try shrimps with tomatoes and feta, or one of the daily specials.

Kriton GefsisCRETAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 26255; www.facebook.com/kritongefsis/; cnr Pan Irioti & Damanos; dishes €5-15; h10am-2am)

Cretan ingredients and flavours are the order of the day at this lively taverna, with fresh seafood featuring; also has live music.

BakalogatosMEZEDHES€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22975 00501; cnr Pan Irioti & Neoptolemou; mains €7-13; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun)

Fresh, well-crafted mezedhes in an elegant setting, with faux-finished tables and traditional products on the walls.

6Drinking & Nightlife

International CornerBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 26564; cnr I Katsa & S Rodi; hnoon-late)

Get off the main strip and head to this character-filled, wood-panelled bar room. The gregarious owner takes requests, from top 40 to fantastic Greek music.

AvliBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 26438; Pan Irioti 17; h9am-late)

This lively restaurant and bar plays tunes from '60s to Greek pop, and has a covered garden that bubbles with activity.

RemviBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 28605; Dimokratias 51; h8am-late; W)

A popular music cafe-bar that hops day and night.

8Information

Harbour-front banks have ATMs.

Aegina has no tourist office. Check Karagiannis Travel for car hire, tours and non-Aegina boats.

Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 24489, emergency 22970 22251; Agios Dionisios Nosokomeiou 4)

Port Authority ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 22328; Dimokratias) At the entrance to the ferry quays.

Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 27777; Leonardou Lada) Up a lane opposite the hydrofoil dock.

8Getting There & Away

Aegina's main port is located in Aegina Town: it's served by both conventional ferries (book online at www.saronicferries.gr) and high-speed hydrofoils operated by Hellenic Seaways and Aegean Flying Dolphins.

8Getting Around

There is a hub of local buses and water taxis at the main port.

ISLAND HOPPING

No direct ferries connect Aegina and Angistri with Hydra and Spetses; go via Piraeus or Poros. For day trips, take the Hydra–Poros–Aegina cruise from Piraeus with Athens One Day Cruise (%210 451 6106; www.athensonedaycruise.com; cruise adult/child €99/56, with transfers €109) or Evermore Cruises (%211 188 2220; www.evermorecruises.com; cruise adult/child €99/56, with transfers €109). Pegasus Cruises (%27250 59430; www.pegasus-cruises.gr; adult/child €35/17.50; hlate Apr–late Sep) goes from Nafplio to Spetses and Hydra.

Around Aegina Town

Aegina is lush and wildflower-laden in spring, and year-round offers some of the best archaic sites in the Saronic Gulf. The interior hills and mountains add drama to the small island, but beaches are not its strongest suit. The east-coast town of Agia Marina is the island’s main package resort. It has a shallow-water beach that is ideal for families, but it’s backed by a fairly crowded main drag. A few thin, sandy beaches, such as Marathonas, line the roadside between Aegina Town and Perdika.

1Sights

oPaleohoraCHURCH, RUIN

(Παλαιοχώρα GOOGLE MAP )F

This enchanting remote hillside is dotted with the remains of a Byzantine village. More than 30 surviving churches punctuate the rocky heights of the original citadel, and several have been refurbished. They are linked by a network of paths, carpeted with wildflowers in spring. The ancient town of Paleohora was Aegina’s capital from the 9th century through the medieval period and was only abandoned during the 1820s.

Paleohora is 6.5km east of Aegina Town, near enormous modern church Moni Agiou Nektariou. Buses from Aegina Town to Agia Marina stop at the turn-off to Paleohora (10 minutes); taxis cost €8 one way.

oTemple of AphaiaTEMPLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 32398; http://odysseus.culture.gr; adult/child €4/free; h9.30am-4.30pm, museum 10.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sun)

The well-preserved remains of this impressive temple stand proudly on a pine-covered hill with far-reaching views over the Saronic Gulf. Built in 480 BC, it celebrates a local deity of pre-Hellenic times. The temple’s pediments were originally decorated with splendid Trojan War sculptures, most of which were stolen in the 19th century and now decorate Munich’s Glyptothek. Panels throughout the site are also in English.

Aphaia is 10km east of Aegina Town. Infrequent buses to Agia Marina stop here (20 minutes); taxis cost about €12 one way.

Christos Capralos MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 22001; Nikou Kazantzaki (Coast Rd), Livadi; €2; h10am-2pm & 6-8pm Tue-Sun Jun-Oct, 10am-2pm Fri-Sun Nov-May)

The home and studio of acclaimed sculptor Christos Capralos (1909–93), on the coast near Livadi, 1.5km north of Aegina Town, has been made into a museum displaying many of his fluid, powerful works. Monumental sculptures include the 40m-long Pindus Frieze.

WORTH A TRIP

PERDIKA ΠΈΡΔΙΚΑ

The quaint fishing village of Perdika lies about 9km south of Aegina Town on the southern tip of the west coast and makes for a relaxed sojourn.

Perdika’s harbour is very shallow so, for the best swimming, catch one of the regular caïques (little boats; return adult/child €5/free) to the small island of Moni, a few minutes offshore. A nature reserve, it has a tree-lined beach and summertime cafe.

Tavernas line Perdika’s raised harbour-front terrace, and sultry sunset relaxation makes way for buzzing nightlife when late-night music bars rev into gear during summer.

4Sleeping & Eating

Villa RodanthosAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6944250138, 22970 61400; www.villarodanthos.com; Perdika; studios from €55; aW)

A gem of a place, not least because of its charming owner. Each room has its own colourful decor and a kitchen.

oMiltosSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 61051; Perdika; mains €12-15; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-late)

The most locally popular of Perdika’s quayside tavernas, known for the highest-quality seafood and no-nonsense Greek staples.

Angistri ΑΓΚΙΣΤΡΙ

Pop 1142

Tiny Angistri lies a few kilometres off the west coast of Aegina and, out of high season, its mellow lanes and azure coves make a rewarding day trip or a worthwhile longer escape.

The port-resort village of Skala is crammed with small hotels, apartments, tavernas and cafes, but life, in general, still ticks along gently. A right turn from the quay leads to the small harbour beach and then to a church on a low headland. Beyond lies the best beach on the island, but it disappears beneath sun loungers and broiling bodies in July and August. Turning left from the quay at Skala takes you south along a dirt path through the pine trees to the pebbly and clothing-optional Halikadha Beach.

About 1km west from Skala, Angistri’s other port, Mylos (Megalochori), has an appealing traditional character, rooms and tavernas, but no beach.

Aponissos has turquoise waters, a small offshore island and a reliably tasty taverna. Limenaria has deeper green waters. The island as a whole gets supersleepy in low season.

4Sleeping & Eating

Book ahead, especially for August and summer weekends. A board on Skala’s quay lists a range of small guesthouses and hotels.

Alkyoni InnPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 91378; www.alkyoni-agistri.com; s/d/maisonettes from €30/45/60; hEaster-Sep; aW)

This recently refurbished pension offers some sea-facing rooms with fabulous, unobstructed views. Two-storey family maisonettes sleep up to four. Its taverna is very popular too.

oRosy’s Little VillagePENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 91610; www.rosyslittlevillage.com; s/d/tr/q from €65/73/83/108; aW)

A complex of simple Cycladic-style cubes steps gently down to the sea, a short way east of Skala’s quay. Full of light and colour, with built-in couches and tiny balconies with sea views, Rosy’s also offers mountain bikes, summer courses, weekly picnics and live-music evenings. Its restaurant (mains €8 to €18, open lunch and dinner) emphasises organics.

Akrogiali HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 91354; www.akrogiali-agistri.gr; Skala; d from €65; hApr-Oct; aW)

Just a quick hop from the ferry dock, this modern beachfront hotel has tidy rooms with colourful, tasteful decor.

Nontas HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 91212; www.facebook.com/NontasHotelAgistri/; Mylos; d from €65; hApr-Oct; aW)

This space-age-looking hotel is best for its sea-facing modern rooms and proximity to local cafes and tavernas.

Alkyoni InnTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 91378; www.alkyoni-agistri.com; mains €7-15; h8am-10pm Easter-Sep; aWc)

The welcoming, family-run Alkyoni is a 10-minute stroll southeast of Skala’s quay. The popular taverna dishes up well-prepared fish and meat, while the refurbished pension offers sea-facing rooms and family maisonettes.

8Information

There’s a bank with ATM on Skala’s main street.

Visit www.agistri.com.gr for island information.

8Getting There & Away

Fast Aegean Flying Dolphins and Hellenic Seaways hydrofoils and car ferries (www.saronicferries.gr) come from Piraeus (hydrofoil/ferry €14.50/10.90, 55 minutes/1½ hours) via Aegina (hydrofoils €6, 10 minutes, four to six daily; ferry €2.80, 20 minutes, one to two daily) to either Skala or Mylos. Angistri Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6934347867) serves Aegina several times daily, Monday to Saturday.

Water taxis cost €45 one way between Aegina and Angistri.

8Getting Around

Several buses ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6973016132, 22970 91244; Skala) a day during summer run from Skala and Mylos (Megalochori) to Limenaria and Dhragonera Beach. It’s worth hiring a scooter (€15) or sturdy bike (€7) to explore the coast road.

You can also follow tracks from Metohi overland through cool pine forest to reach Dhragonera Beach. Take a compass; tracks divide often and route-finding can be frustrating.

Kostas Bike Hire ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 91021; Skala)

Takis Rent a Bike & Bicycles (Logothetis; GOOGLE MAP ; %22970 91001; www.agistri.com.gr/logothetis; Mylos)

Taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6977618040, 22970 91455; Skala)

Poros ΠΟΡΟΣ

Pop 3800

Poros is separated from the mountainous Peloponnese by a narrow sea channel, and its protected setting makes the main settlement of Poros Town seem like a cheery lakeside resort. Its pastel-hued houses stack up the hillside to a clock tower and make a vibrant first impression.

Poros is made up of two land masses connected by a tiny isthmus: Sferia, which is occupied mainly by the town of Poros; and the much larger and mainly forested Kalavria, which has the island’s beaches and seasonal hotels scattered along its southern shore. Poros still maintains a sense of remoteness in its sparsely populated, forested interior.

The Peloponnesian town of Galatas lies on the opposite shore, making Poros a useful base from which to explore the ancient sites of the Peloponnese. For example, the exquisite ancient theatre of Epidavros is within reach by car or taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %in Galatas 22980 42888).

8Getting There & Away

Daily ferries (www.saronicferries.gr) connect Piraeus to Poros in summer (reduced timetable in winter). High-speed Hellenic Seaways ferries continue south to Hydra, Spetses, Ermioni and Porto Heli. Conventional ferries connect Aegina to Poros and Methana on the mainland. Travel agents sell tickets.

Caïques shuttle constantly between Poros and Galatas (€1, five minutes). They leave from the quay opposite Plateia Iroön, the triangular plaza near the main ferry dock in Poros Town. Hydrofoils dock about 50m north of here. Car ferries to Galatas (per person/car €1/6, from 7.30am to 10.40pm) leave from the dock several hundred metres north again, on the road to Kalavria.

You can also do a one-way rental between branches of Pop's Car ( GOOGLE MAP ; %in Galatas 22980 42910; www.popscar.gr) at Athens Airport and Galatas (or Ermioni).

Boat Services From Poros

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Aegina	1¼hr	8.50	2-5 daily
Hydra*	30min	13.50	4-5 daily
Methana	30min	4.30	2-3 daily
Piraeus	2½hr	11.50-14	2-3 daily
Piraeus*	1hr	24.50	4-5 daily
Spetses*	1½hr	16	4 daily

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Boat

Caïques go to beaches around the island during summer.

Bus

A bus (€3) operates mid-June to October every hour from 7am until midnight on a route that starts next to the kiosk at the eastern end of Plateia Iroön. It crosses to Kalavria and goes east along the south coast for ten minutes as far as Moni Zoödohou Pigis, then turns around and heads west to Neorion Beach (15 minutes). Buy tickets from the kiosk.

Motorcycle & Bicycle

Several places on the road to Kalavria rent out bicycles, scooters and all-terrain vehicles (ATVs; per day from €6/20/30).

Moto Fotis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 25873; www.motofotis-poros.gr; Kanali; h9am-9pm) Rents bicycles, motorbikes and ATVs.

Moto Stelios ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23026; www.motostelios.gr; Harbour, Poros Town; h9am-9pm) Rents ATVs, scooters and bicycles in Poros harbour and Askeli beach.

Taxi

Taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23003) Standard taxi fares are posted at the main stand on the quay.

Poros Town Πόρος

Pop 3651

Zippy Poros Town is a mishmash of charming ice-cream-coloured houses that look out across the narrow channel at Galatas and the shapely mountains of the Peloponnese. Sailing boats bob along the lengthy quay, while ferries glide through the channel and smaller vessels scurry to and fro. Behind the harbour, plateies (squares) and tavernas hide from view and a rocky bluff rises steeply to a crowning clock tower.

1Sights

Archaeological Museum of PorosMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23276; http://odysseus.culture.gr; Harbourfront, Plateia Koryzi; €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

This small museum on the waterfront shows a beautiful collection of classic Greek sculpture from the area.

CitronneGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 22401; www.citronne.com; Leof Papadopoulou; h10am-3pm Mon-Sat Jun-Aug)

This bright and cheerful local gallery shows artists from around Greece.

4Sleeping

oSeven Brothers HotelHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23412; www.7brothers.gr; Poros Harbour; s/d/tr €50/55/60; aW)

Conveniently close to the hydrofoil quay, this modern hotel has bright, comfy rooms with superduper bathrooms. Some have small balconies, some sea views.

Georgia Mellou RoomsPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 22309; http://porosnet.gr/gmellou; Plateia Georgiou; d/tr €40/45; aW)

Simple, old-fashioned rooms are tucked into the heart of the old town, next to the cathedral, high above the harbour. The charming owner keeps everything shipshape. Book ahead for fantastic views from west-side rooms.

Hotel ManessiBUSINESS HOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 22273; www.manessi.com; Harbourfront; d from €55; aiW)

Well placed at the midpoint of the harbour, the Manessi is a bit worn in places, but offers clean business-style rooms, some with sea views.

Sto RoloiAPARTMENT€€

(%6932427267, 22980 25808; www.storoloi-poros.gr; studio/apt/houses from €63/105/155; a)

Roloi is a good source for tidy apartments and houses around Poros Town.

5Eating

Dimitris Family TavernaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23709; www.dimitrisfamily-poros.gr; mains €6-14; h6-10pm or 11pm)

Renowned for its meat, this taverna's owners have a butchering business, so cuts of pork, lamb and chicken are of the finest quality. It's up the hill in the centre of town; ask a local for directions.

Taverna KaravolosTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 26158; www.karavolos.com; mains €6-12; h7-11pm)

Karavolos means ‘big snail’ and snails are a house speciality at this quaint eatery on a backstreet. Friendly proprietors also offer classic Greek meat dishes and some fish, as well as rooms (double/triple €35/45) upstairs.

PoseidonSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23597; www.poseidontaverna.gr; Harbourfront; mains €7-15; h9.30am-12.30am Easter-Oct)

A quayside favourite for delicious seafood, friendly service and occasional Greek dancing.

OasisTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 22955; Harbourfront; mains €7-14; h10am-1am)

Hang out harbourside and feast on home-cooked Greek staples and seafood.

8Information

Banks on Plateia Iroön have ATMs.

Poros has no tourist office. Harbour-front agencies arrange accommodation, car hire, tours and cruises.

Family Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23743; www.familytours.gr; Harbourfront; h9am-2pm & 5-10pm) Sells conventional-ferry tickets.

Marinos Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23423; www.marinostours.gr; Harbourfront; h7am-9.30pm Apr-Oct, to 7pm Nov-Mar) Across from the hydrofoil quay; sells hydrofoil tickets.

Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 22256; Dimosthenous 10) Behind the high school.

Around Poros

1Sights & Activities

Poros’ best beaches include the pebbly Kanali Beach, on Kalavria islet 1km east of the bridge, and the long, sandy Askeli Beach, about 500m further east.

Neorion Beach, 3km west of the bridge, has waterskiing, and banana-boat and air-chair rides. The best beach is at Russian Bay, 1.5km past Neorion.

Temple of PoseidonRUINS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 23276; h8.30am-3pm)F

There's very little left of this 6th-century temple. Once it was a magnificent building giving sanctuary to fugitives and wrecked sailors, but in the 18th century it was mostly dismantled and the materials used to build a monastery on Hydra. Still, the walk or drive to the site gives superb views of the Saronic Gulf and the Peloponnese.

With your own wheels, from the road near Moni Zoödohou Pigis, head inland to reach the ruins. Then you can continue along the road and circle back to the bridge onto Sferia. It’s about 6km in total.

Moni Zoödohou PigisMONASTERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-noon & 2.30-6pm)

The 18th-century 'Monastery of the Life-giving Spring', well signposted 4km east of Poros Town, has a beautiful gilded iconostasis (a screen bearing icons) from Asia Minor.

PassageWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 42540; www.passage.gr; Neorion Bay; lesson from €45)

A popular waterskiing school and slalom centre.

4Sleeping & Eating

oSirene Blue ResortRESORT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 22741; www.sireneblueresort.gr; Monastiri Beach; d/tr incl breakfast from €120/150; aWs)

Sirene Blue Resort offers a deluxe seaside vacation, from sparkling pool to crisp linens. Find it at Monastiri Beach, near Moni Zoödohou Pigis.

Hotel New AegliHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 22372; www.newaegli.com; Askeli Beach; d from €95; hApr-Oct; aiWs)

Poros’ best beaches include the long, sandy Askeli Beach. Hotel New Aegli, across the road from the beach, is a decent resort-style hotel and offers good, modern rooms, many with sea views.

oAspros GatosSEAFOOD, TAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 24274; Labraki 49; mains €6-15; hnoon-11pm Easter-Oct)

A short walk from town, 400m west of the bridge on the road to Neorion Beach, Poros’ best seafood taverna sits smack out over the water. Watch the local kayaking team do its thing as the jolly owner provides anything from bolognese to the catch of the day.

Hydra ΥΔΡΑ

Pop 1966

Hydra is truly the gem of the Saronic Gulf and stands alone among Greek islands as the one free of wheeled vehicles. No cars. No scooters. Just tiny marble-cobbled lanes, donkeys, rocks and sea. Artists (Brice Marden, Nikos Chatzikyriakos-Ghikas, Panayiotis Tetsis), musicians (Leonard Cohen), actors and celebrities (Melina Mercouri, Sophia Loren) have all been drawn to Hydra over the years. In addition to the island’s exquisitely preserved stone architecture, criss-crossing rural paths and clear, deep waters, you can find a good cappuccino along the harbour, which is great for people-watching.

History

Hydra was sparsely populated in ancient times and is just mentioned in passing by Herodotus. The most significant evidence of settlement dates from Mycenaean times. But in the 16th century, Hydra became a refuge for people fleeing skirmishes between the Venetians and the Ottomans. Many hailed from the area of modern-day Albania.

By the mid-1700s the settlers began building boats and took to the thin line between maritime commerce and piracy with enthusiasm. They travelled as far as Egypt and the Black Sea and ran the British blockade (1803–15) during the Napoleonic Wars. As a result of steady tax paying, the island experienced only light interference under the Ottoman Empire. By the 19th century, Hydra had become a full-blown maritime power, and wealthy shipping merchants had built most of the town’s grand mansions. At its height in 1821, the island’s population reached 28,000. Hydra supplied 130 ships for a blockade of the Turks during the Greek War of Independence and the island bred such leaders as Admiral Andreas Miaoulis, who commanded the Greek fleet, and Georgios Koundouriotis, president of Greece’s national assembly from 1822 to 1827.

8Getting There & Away

High-speed Hellenic Seaways (www.hsw.gr) ferries link Hydra with Poros, Piraeus and Spetses, and Ermioni and Porto Heli on the Peloponnese. Service is greatly reduced in winter. Buy tickets from Hydreoniki Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 54007; www.hydreoniki.gr; h7am-10pm or around ferry departures), up the lane to the right of the Alpha Bank in Hydra Town.

Freedom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6947325263, 6944242141; www.hydralines.gr) boats run between Hydra and Metohi (little more than a car park) on the mainland (€6.50, 15 minutes, five to 11 daily). The schedule is posted on the quay and online.

Boat Services from Hydra

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Ermioni*	20-40min	8	3 daily
Piraeus*	1¾hr	28	4-6 daily
Poros*	30min	13	4 daily
Porto Heli*	1hr	16.50	4 daily
Spetses*	40min	11.50	4-5 daily

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Generally, people get around Hydra by walking.

The island is vehicle-free, and mules and donkeys are the main means of heavy transport. Donkey owners are clustered around the port; they transport luggage to the hotels and provide quick donkey rides around the port. Note that animal rights groups urge people to consider whether the animals are maltreated before deciding to take a ride.

In summer, caïques (little boats) from Hydra Town go to the island’s beaches. Water-taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53690) fares are posted on the quay (Kamini €10, Vlyhos €15).

Hydra Town Υδρα

Pop 1900

Life in Hydra centres around the gorgeous port. Whether you sail or ferry in, the sparkling boat-filled harbour and the bright light striking the tiers of carefully preserved stone houses make a lasting impression. The harbour in high season is an ecosystem of its own, with yachts, caïques (little boats) and water taxis zipping in and out. The marble quay is a surging rhythm of donkeys, visitors, cafe denizens and boat-taxi hawkers. By night the scene becomes a promenade: grab a chair, order a drink and watch the world go by.

If you head back into the warren of portside houses, to the steep slopes banking away from the town centre, you get a different view on Hydriot life. Grandmothers chat in quiet lanes about what’s for dinner, and roads peter out into dirt paths that head into the mountains, ever-changing in colour, depending on the time of day.

Hydra Town

1Top Sights

1Kimisis Tis Theotokou CathedralB3

2Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical MansionA4

1Sights

3Ecclesiastical MuseumB3

4Historical Archives Museum of HydraC1

4Sleeping

5Amaryllis HotelC3

6Angelica HotelB5

7CotommataeA5

8Douskos Guest HouseB4

9Hotel SophiaB3

10Hydra HotelA4

11Leto HotelB4

12Mastoris MansionC4

13Pension ErofiliD4

5Eating

14Barba DimasC4

15CapriceD3

16Flora'sB4

17Il CastaD4

18Ke KremmidiC3

19Oraia HydraC3

20OstriaA3

21ParadosiakoC3

22ZefyrosB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

23AmalourC3

24IsalosC2

25PapagalosA2

26PirateA3

3Entertainment

27Cinema Club of HydraC4

7Shopping

28Elena VotsiC3

29SirensA2

30SugarfreeD3

31SvouraA2

32TurquoiseC3

1Sights

Melina Mercouri Exhibition Hall and Deste Foundation host high-season art shows.

oKimisis Tis Theotokou CathedralCHURCH

(Metropolis; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Harbour; h7am-7pm)

Housed in the peaceful monastery complex on the harbour, this lovely cathedral dates from the 17th century and has a Tinian-marble bell tower. Its Ecclesiastical Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 54071; www.imhydra.gr/mouseio_main.htm; Harbour; adult/child €2/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Nov) contains a collection of icons and vestments.The monastery complex is also known as Faneromeni. Dress appropriately (covered shoulders, long skirts or pants) to enter.

oDeste FoundationGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.deste.gr)F

Deste Foundation hosts an annual Hydra exhibit at the small former slaughterhouse on the sea.

oLazaros Koundouriotis Historical MansionMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52421; www.nhmuseum.gr; adult/child €4/free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct)

Hydra’s star cultural attraction is this handsome ochre-coloured arhontiko (stone mansion) high above the harbour. It was the home of one of the major players in the Greek independence struggle and is an exquisite example of late 18th-century traditional architecture. It features original furnishings, folk costumes, handicrafts and a painting exhibition.

Historical Archives Museum of HydraMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52355; www.iamy.gr; Harbour; adult/child €5/3; h9am-4pm)

This fine harbour-front museum houses an extensive collection of portraits and naval artefacts, with an emphasis on the island’s role in the War of Independence. It hosts temporary exhibitions in summer, and concerts on the rooftop terrace.

2Activities

Harriet's Hydra HorsesHORSE RIDING

(%6980323347; www.harrietshydrahorses.com; 1/2/8hr tour €25/55/175)

Harriet, a friendly, bilingual British-Greek local, guides licensed horse-riding tours (from one to eight hours) around the island, to the monasteries and to the beaches.

Vasilis KokkosBOATING

(%6977649789; bkokkos@yahoo.com)

Vasilis Kokkos, proprietor of Caprice restaurant and boat captain, rents speedboats (per day €80 to €250) and a sailing boat (by prior arrangement; one-week minimum from €900). Licence required.

zFestivals & Events

Miaoulia FestivalCULTURAL

(hweekend around 21 Jun)

Celebration of Admiral Miaoulis and the Hydriot contribution to the War of Independence, with a spectacular boat burning (with fireworks) in Hydra harbour.

4Sleeping

Accommodation in Hydra is of a high standard, but you pay accordingly. Most owners will meet you at the harbour and organise luggage transfer.

PiteoussaPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52810; www.piteoussa.com; Kouloura; d €50-70; aW)

Jolly owners maintain beautiful rooms in two buildings on a quiet, pine-tree-lined street. Rooms in the restored corner mansion drip with period character and also have all the modern amenities you need, while the smaller rooms in the second building were renovated in 2010 and have a mod feel.

Pension ErofiliPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 54049; www.pensionerofili.gr; Tombazi; s/d/tr from €45/55/97; aW)

Tucked in the inner town, these pleasant, unassuming rooms are a good deal for Hydra. Also has a studio with kitchen.

Hotel SophiaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52313; www.hotelsophia.gr; Harbourfront; d incl breakfast €85-115; hApr-Oct; aW)

Gorgeous small rooms sit right on the harbour and some have balconies. Each has been painstakingly outfitted with all the mod cons, and bathrooms are luscious marble. Some rooms are two storeys.

Angelica HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53202; www.angelica.gr; Miaouli; d/tr/q incl breakfast from €130/180/220; aW)

An attractive boutique hotel in a quiet location, the Angelica is popular for its comfortable, luxurious rooms and spacious, impeccable bathrooms. Superior rooms have balconies. Relax in the spa or courtyard.

Mastoris MansionBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(Ξενώνας Αρχοντικό του Μάστορη MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 29631; www.mastoris-hydra.gr; d/tr from €100/150)

One of the most recent entries on Hydra's hotel scene, this renovated stone building in the centre of town offers plush doubles and triples. While convenient to harbour action, rooms don't have views.

NereidsPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52875; www.nereids-hydra.com; Kouloura; d from €70; aW)

This carefully restored stone house contains lovely rooms of exceptional value and quality. Spacious, peaceful and with beautiful decor, rooms have open views to Hydra’s rocky heights and top-floor rooms have sea views.

Amaryllis HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53611; www.amarillishydra.gr; Tombazi 15; s/d €45/60; aW)

Simple rooms, a friendly owner and a super location right in the heart of town make this a safe midrange bet. Shared kitchen too.

oCotommataeBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53873; www.cotommatae.gr; d/f incl breakfast from €170/250; a)

This restored mansion has retained the character and some of the memorabilia of the original family while adding impeccable modern touches. Some suites have private terraces or a spa.

oHydra HotelAPARTMENT€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6985910717, 22980 53420; www.hydra-hotel.gr; Petrou Voulgari 8; studio incl breakfast €175-265, maisonettes €255; aW)

Climb high on the south side of the port to swishy, top-of-the-line apartments in an impeccably renovated ancient mansion with kitchenettes and sweeping views. Get room 202 for a tiny balcony with panoramas to die for.

Leto HotelHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53385; www.letohydra.gr; Rigillis 8; d/ste from €177/485)

This proper hotel is family-owned with formal rooms and all the services. It also offers a rarity in Greece: a wheelchair-accessible room, served by ramps all the way from the harbour.

Douskos Guest HousePENSION€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53845; www.douskosguesthouse.gr; d/tr from €180/190)

Clean lines and clock-tower views are part of this new guesthouse just back from the harbour. Bathrooms are top-notch and owners also operate a popular local restaurant.

5Eating

Flora'sSWEETS€

(Anemoni; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53136; Plateia Votsi; sweets from €1; h9am-late)

Flora’s sweet shop on inland Plateia Votsi makes galaktoboureko (custard slice), rice pudding and ice cream from local goats’ milk.

ZefyrosTAVERNA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52008; Miaouli; mains €5-9; hnoon-10pm)

Lovely Amalia and her family serve up classic Greek dishes in a low-key dining room just back from the port. Look in the glass case to see the day's specials. German expats also say it's got the best schnitzel on the island.

Ke KremmidiGREEK€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53099; Tombazi; gyros €2.50, mains €6-9; hnoon-late)

This friendly souvlaki joint has tables spilling out onto a busy pedestrian way and offers up good salads and grilled-meat plates as well.

OstriaTAVERNA€

(Stathis & Tassoula; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 54077; mains €5-8; hnoon-4pm & 6.30pm-late)

Often referred to by just the gregarious owners’ names 'Stathis & Tassoula', this year-round taverna serves only what’s fresh: put the menu to one side and ask. You might be served chicken cutlets or fava or zucchini balls. Stathis catches his own sweet and delicious calamari.

ParadosiakoTAVERNA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 54155; Tombazi; mains €5-15; hnoon-11.30pm Easter-Nov)

This little streetside spot is traditional Greek personified. Sit on the corner terrace to watch the people parade as you dig into classic mezedhes – perhaps beetroot salad with garlic dip – or meats and seafood, such as fresh, filleted and grilled sardines.

oOraia HydraGREEK€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52556; Harbourfront; mains €9-18; hnoon-midnight)

Oraia Hydra translates as 'Beautiful Hydra' and this small bistro lives right up to its name. You'll dine on the harbour with sailboats bobbing alongside and enjoy Greek dishes elevated by top ingredients and creative twists.

oIl CastaITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52967; Tombazi; mains €10-22; hnoon-11pm)

Dine al fresco and enjoy authentic Italian food like owner Pietro's Neapolitan grandmother used to make. Menus change daily. Reserve in high season.

oSunsetMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52067; mains €9-25; hnoon-11pm Easter-Oct)

Famed for its splendid panoramic spot near the cannons to the west of the harbour, Sunset also has fine, fresh cuisine. Tasty salads, inventive pastas and local fish are prepared with flair and a hint of elegance.

Barba DimasMEZEDHES€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52967; Tombazi; small dishes €4-12; h6-11pm)

Tables line a small lane, back from the portside fray, and dishes run the gamut of Greek mezedhes, from perfectly tender calamari to greens picked from the mountains.

CapriceITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52454; Sahtouri; mains €9-15; h6pm-midnight Apr-Oct)

A chance for romantic candlelit dining with a solid repertoire of Italian dishes, some using freshly made pasta.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Prices are high, but lively people-watching comes with your coffee or cocktail. The harbour revs up after midnight.

oPirateCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52711; www.thepiratebar.gr; Harbourfront; h8am-late)

Friendly Wendy and Takis and their kids, Zeus and occasionally Zara, run this daytime cafe with first-rate coffee, some of the island's most delicious breakfasts and home-cooked lunches (9am to 5pm), then morph it into a raging party place at night. Music changes with the crowd and the mood.

oHydronettaBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 54160; www.hydronetta.gr; hnoon-11pm Easter-Oct)

You can’t beat this gorgeous waterfront location on the swimming rocks to the far west of the harbour. Brothers Andreas and Elias provide snazzy cocktails and lunch (high season only) with a smile.

PapagalosBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52626; Harbourfront; h9am-late)

Papagalos is just that bit away from the madding crowd, on the quieter side of the harbour. By day, it offers coffee and basic food, and by night, cocktails and a clear view of the moonrise.

IsalosCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 29661; www.isaloshydra.gr; Harbourfront; h7am-late)

Isalos makes exceptional coffee and a solid run of sandwiches and pastas.

AmalourCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53800; Tombazi; h7pm-late Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May)

A lively line in cocktails, relaxed outdoor seating and dancing inside after midnight.

3Entertainment

Cinema Club of HydraCINEMA, THEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53105; http://cineclubhydras.blogspot.com; Oikonomou)

In July and August the open-air cinema screens blockbusters and indie flicks. It also organises excursions to plays at the ancient theatre of Epidavros.

7Shopping

SirensCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53340; Harbourfront; h10am-10pm Easter-Oct)

Charming owner Elena offers unique island-friendly, high-end fashion and Greek-designed jewellery.

SugarfreeCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53352; www.sugarfreeshops.com; Tombazi; h11am-11pm May-Nov)

Youthful beach- and loungewear created by Greek designers fill this sparkling white shop just back from Amalour, on the way to the Bratsera Hotel. Prices are reasonable by local standards and the colours dazzling.

SvouraARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 29784; Harbourfront; h10am-11pm Apr-Oct)

Carefully curated ceramics from all over Greece plus a smattering of fashion make this one of Hydra's top shops.

Elena VotsiJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52637; www.elenavotsi.com; Harbourfront; h10am-11.30pm)

Hydra native Votsi is renowned for her original, bold designs using exquisite semiprecious stones, which sell in New York and London. She designed the Athens Olympic Games medal.

TurquoiseFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 54033; www.turquoise.gr; h10am-10pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May)

Local designer Dimitris creates an annual line of womenswear and accessories using intricate Indian block prints.

8Information

ATMs are at harbour-front banks.

There’s no tourist office on Hydra.

Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53150; Votsi) Basic hospital with an X-ray machine.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) On the small, internal market square.

Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52205) Shares an office with regular police.

Around Hydra

Hydra’s mountainous, arid interior makes a robust but peaceful contrast to the clamour of the quayside. A useful map for walkers is Anavasi's Hydra map. A map is posted on the quay, and several marked trails extend across the island. Once you leave the villages of Hydra/Kamini/Vlyhos there are no services. Take plenty of water.

An unbeatable experience is the long haul up to Moni Profiti Ilia. The wonderful monastery complex contains beautiful icons and boasts super views. It’s a solid hour or more through zigzags and pine trees to panoramic bliss on top.

A smaller monastery, Moni Agias Efpraxias, sits just below Profiti Ilia and is run by nuns.

Other paths lead to Mt Eros (588m), the island’s highest point, and east and west along the island spine, but you need advanced route-finding skills or reliable directions from knowledgable locals.

The coastal road turns into a partially cobbled, beautiful trail about 1.5km west of the port, after Kamini. Kamini has a tiny fishing port, several good tavernas, swimming rocks and a small pebble beach. In fact, Hydra’s shortcoming – or blessing – is its lack of sandy beaches to draw the crowds. People usually swim off the rocks, but if you go as far as Vlyhos, 1.5km after Kamini, this last little hamlet before the mountains offers two slightly larger pebble beaches (one called Vlyhos and the other, the more pristine Plakes), tavernas and a restored 19th-century stone bridge.

The coastal road leads 2.5km east from the port to a pebble beach at Mandraki.

Boats run from the harbour to all of these places, and you certainly need them to reach Bisti Bay or Agios Nikolaos Bay, in the island’s southwest, with their remote but umbrella-laden pebble beaches and green waters.

5Eating

ChristinaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53516; Kamini; mains €6-12; hnoon-4pm & 6-10pm Thu-Tue Easter-Oct)

Just inland from the port in Kamini, Mrs Christina and her kids dish out some of the island’s best Greek dishes and fresh fish.

To PefkakiSEAFOOD, MEZEDHES€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6973535709; Kamini; dishes €5-10; hnoon-4pm & 6.30-10pm Thu-Tue Easter-Oct)

Worth the short walk along the coast to Kamini for a laid-back lunch of mezedhes and fresh seafood (delicious fried anchovies).

oTechneINTERNATIONAL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 52500; www.techne-hydra.com; Coast Rd, Avlaki; mains €13-23; h10am-midnight)

Spread across several terraces and overlooking a broad sweep of sea and sunset, this elegant cafe and restaurant serves lighter fare by day and full, well-conceived, delicious and thoughtfully served meals at night. Book ahead on weekend evenings to nab a table, perfect for date night.

Four SeasonsTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53698; www.fourseasonshydra.gr; Plakes Beach; mains €6-15; hnoon-10pm Easter-Oct; W)

This tasty seaside taverna offers a different face of Hydra: the sound of the breeze and the waves instead of the portside buzz. Don’t miss the taramasalata (fish-roe dip) with bread and whatever else tickles your fancy. It also has handsome suites (from €240, including breakfast).

EnalionTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53455; www.enalion-hydra.gr; Vlyhos; mains €6-12; hnoon-10pm Easter-Oct)

Perhaps the best seaside option at Vlyhos Beach, with traditional Greek fare.

PirofaniINTERNATIONAL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 53175; www.pirofani.com; Kamini; mains €10-16; h7.30pm-midnight Wed-Sun late May-Sep)

Gregarious Theo creates an eclectic range of dishes, from a beef fillet with rose-pepper sauce to a spicy Asian curry.

CastelloMEDITERRANEAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 54101; www.castellohydra.gr; Kamini; snacks €7-15, mains €15-30; h1pm-late Jun-Sep)

In a renovated 18th-century bastion and spilling onto the beach, Castello offers waterfront snacks at its daytime beach bar, gourmet seaside dining at its refined restaurant and sunset cocktails at its bar. Amazing views.

Spetses ΣΠΕΤΣΕΣ

Pop 4027

Spetses stands proudly just a few kilometres from mainland Peloponnese, but there is a stronger sense of carefree island Greece here than in other Saronic Gulf destinations. The lively, historic old town is the only village on the island; the rest, ringed by a simple road, is rolling hills, pine forests and crystal-clear coves. Relaxed Spetses Town has great nightlife, some of the Saronic’s best restaurants and gorgeous, easily accessible swimming spots. With a rich naval history, it is still incredibly popular with yachties, and with its vibrant culture, it attracts artists, intellectuals and lovers of a good island party.

History

In Spetses Town there’s evidence of early Helladic settlement near the Old Harbour and around the Dapia Harbour. Roman and Byzantine remains have been found in the area behind Moni Agios Nikolaos, halfway between the two.

From the 10th century, Spetses is thought to have been uninhabited for almost 600 years, until the arrival of Albanian refugees fleeing the fighting between Turks and Venetians in the 16th century.

Spetses, like Hydra, grew wealthy from shipbuilding. Island captains busted the British blockade during the Napoleonic Wars and refitted their ships to join the Greek fleet during the War of Independence. In the process they immortalised one local woman (albeit originally from Hydra) the formidable Laskarina Bouboulina, ship commander and fearless fighter.

The island’s hallmark forests of Aleppo pine, a legacy of the far-sighted philanthropist Sotirios Anargyros, have been devastated by fires several times in the past 20 years. The trees are steadily recovering.

8Getting There & Away

High-speed ferries link Spetses with Hydra, Poros and Piraeus, and Ermioni and Porto Heli on the Peloponnese. In summer caïques (per person €4) and a car ferry (€2) go from the harbour to Kosta on the mainland. Note: only locally owned cars are allowed on Spetses. Park yours in Kosta. Get tickets at Bardakos Tours.

Boat Sevices from Spetses

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Ermioni*	20-30min	8	2 daily
Hydra*	40min	11.50	4-5 daily
Piraeus*	2hr 10min	38.50	5 daily
Poros*	1½hr	16	4-5 daily
Porto Heli*	15min	6	3-4 daily

*high-speed services

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Bike Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 72209; http://spetsesbikecenter.blogspot.com; h10am-3.30pm & 5.30-10pm) Behind the fish market; rents out bikes (per day €8), including baby seats.

Boat

In summer caïques serve the island’s beaches (return €13). Water-taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 72072; Dapia Harbour; h24hr) fares are displayed on a board at the quay. All leave from the quay opposite Bardakos Tours.

Bus

Two routes start over Easter and increase in frequency to three or four daily from June to September. Departure times are displayed on boards by the bus stops and around town.

One goes from Plateia Agiou Mama in Spetses Town to Agia Paraskevi (€6, 40 minutes), travelling via Agia Marina and Agii Anargyri.

The other leaves from in front of Poseidonion Grand Hotel, going to Vrellos (€4) via Ligoneri.

Car & Motorcycle

Only locally owned autos are allowed on Spetses, and those are not permitted in the centre of town. The transport of choice tends to be scooters. Motorbike- and quad-bike-hire shops abound (per day €15 to €35). Taxis are another option.

Spetses Town Σπέτσες

Pop 4001

Bustling Spetses Town stretches along a meandering waterfront encompassing several quays and beaches. The main Dapia Harbour, where ferries arrive, and the area around adjacent Plateia Limenarhiou and inland Plateia Orologiou (Clocktower Sq) teem with chic tourist shops and cafes.

As you head further inland on the quieter lanes, or go left along the harbour-front road of Sotiriou Anargyriou, past the town beach and Plateia Agiou Mama, impressive old arhontika (mansions) illustrate Spetses’ historic (and ongoing) wealth.

Passing the church of Moni Agios Nikolaos you arrive at the attractive Old Harbour (Palio Limani) and the interesting Baltiza yacht anchorage and boat-building area.

From the north side of Dapia Harbour a promenade and road lead through the seafront Kounoupitsa area.

1Sights

Bouboulina’s MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 72416; www.bouboulinamuseum-spetses.gr; adult/child €6/2; htours daily Apr-Oct)

The mansion of Spetses’ famous daughter, the 19th-century seagoing commander Laskarina Bouboulina, has been converted into a museum. Entry is via 40-minute guided tours (billboards around town advertise starting times, also posted online). The museum hosts occasional concerts. There’s an impressive statue of Bouboulina on the harbour, opposite the Poseidonion Grand Hotel.

Spetses MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 72994; http://odysseus.culture.gr; adult/child €3/free; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Small, fascinating collections are housed in the old mansion of Hatzigiannis Mexis (1754–1844), a shipowner who became the island’s first governor. They include island artefacts, traditional costumes and portraits of the island’s founding fathers.

zFestivals & Events

oArmataCULTURAL

(hearly Sep)

This week-long celebration culminates on 8 September in a commemoration of Spetses' victory over the Turks in a key 1822 naval battle, with an enormous water-borne re-enactment and fireworks.

4Sleeping

Villa Christina HotelPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 72218; www.villachristinahotel.com; s/d/tr/f incl breakfast from €50/55/70/90; aW)

Located about 200m uphill on the main road inland from the harbour, these well-kept rooms and lovely garden are back from the worst traffic noise.

Villa MarinaPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 72646; www.villamarinaspetses.com; Agios Mamas; d €55-60; aW)

Superbasic, clean rooms have refrigerators and there is a well-equipped communal kitchen downstairs. Just to the right of Plateia Agiou Mama.

Hotel KameliaPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6939095513; http://hotelkamelia.gr; Agias Mamas; s/d from €40/45; hEaster-Oct; aW)

Good-value airy rooms are tucked away from the busy seafront in the Agios Mamas area, with a bougainvillea-draped terrace.

Economou MansionPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 73400; www.economouspetses.gr; d incl breakfast from €130; aWs)

This beautiful pension on the ground floor of a restored captain's mansion sits right on the waterfront, about 500m north of Dapia Harbour, and offers a homey, relaxed hideaway combining antique decor and modern amenities such as swimming pool, TV, hairdryer and safe. Breakfast is bountiful.

Kastro HotelAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 75319; www.kastrohotel-spetses.gr; studios/4-person apt incl breakfast €120/165; aWs)

A private, quiet complex encloses these studios and apartments close to the centre of town. Low-key decor and modern amenities combine with extensive terraces.

Klimis HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 73725; www.klimishotel.gr; Dapia Harbour; s/d/apt incl breakfast from €75/95/170; aW)

Sleek rooms, some with seafront balconies, at this standard hotel sit above a ground-floor cafe-bar and patisserie.

oPoseidonion Grand HotelLUXURY HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 74553; www.poseidonion.com; Dapia Harbour; d/ste incl breakfast from €280/670; aWs)

Here’s your chance to live like a wealthy dame or gent in the roaring '20s. This grand old hotel has been totally renovated and every centimetre, from the chic rooms to the gracious lobby bar and grand pool, drips with luxury. Oh, and it also has two of the island’s best restaurants.

oOrloff ResortBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 75444; www.orloffresort.com; Old Harbour; d/studios/apt incl breakfast from €210/225/410; hMar-Oct; aWs)

On the edge of town, along the road to Agia Marina and near the old port, the pristine Orloff hides behind high white walls. Enjoy stylish rooms and a crystal-clear pool.

5Eating

oAkrogialiaSEAFOOD, TAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 74749; www.akrogialia-restaurant.gr; Kounoupitsa; mains €9-17; h11am-midnight)

This superb restaurant is on the Kounoupitsa seafront and matches its delicious food with friendly service and a bright setting. Tasty options include oven-baked melidzana rolos (eggplant with creamy cheese and walnuts). Enjoy terrific fish risotto or settle for a choice steak. All are accompanied by a thoughtful selection of Greek wines. Book ahead on weekends.

To Nero tis AgapisMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 74009; www.nerotisagapis.gr; Kounoupitsa; mains €9-22; h11am-midnight)

The sweetly named ‘Water of Love’ offers gourmet meat as well as fish dishes. The crayfish tagliatelle is worth every bite, as is the zarzuela (fish stew). There’s a selection of creative salads. Book ahead for the romantic tables with the best sea views.

PatralisSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 75380; www.patralis.gr; Kounoupitsa; mains €7-15; h10am-midnight Jan-Oct)

Operating for more than 70 years and known island-wide for its outstanding seafood, Patralis sits smack on the seafront in Kounoupitsa.

OrloffMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 75255; www.orloffrestaurant.com; Old Harbour; mains €14-21; h6.30pm-1am Jun-Sep, 6.30pm-1am Fri, 12.30pm-1am Sat, 12.30-6pm Sun May & Oct)

Fresh fish and specialities such as seafood linguine or pork fillet with aubergine purée are hallmarks of the popular Orloff. The terrace sits above the water at a bend in the road just north of the Old Harbour.

oOn the VerandahMEDITERRANEAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6957507267; www.poseidonion.com/en/Dining-On-the-Verandah; Poseidonion Hotel; 4-course dinner €38; h7.30pm-midnight Jul & Aug, reduced hours May, Jun & Sep)

One of the Saronic Gulf's top dining experiences, the Verandah at the Poseidonion Hotel is the dining space for the refined, high-concept cuisine of chef Stamatis Marmarinos. Ingredients are locally sourced and comprise exquisitely presented, creative Mediterranean dishes. Book ahead.

oTarsanasSEAFOOD€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 74490; www.tarsanas-spetses.gr; Old Harbour; mains €17-26; h11am-midnight)

A hugely popular psarotaverna (fish taverna) on the water at the Old Harbour, this family-run place deals almost exclusively in fish dishes. It can be pricey, but the fish soup (€7) alone is a delight and other starters, such as anchovies marinated with lemon, start at €6.

6Drinking & Nightlife

MourayoBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 73700; Old Harbour; h8pm-2am)

You can come for the food, but be sure to stay for a sunset or late-night waterfront cocktail and dancing.

La LuzBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 75024; www.laluzspetses.gr; Old Harbour)

La Luz often has live music and always sports super sea views in the Old Harbour area of Spetses.

AristonCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 73803; Dapia Harbour; h9am-late; W)

A touch of class on the waterfront, with coffee by day and sundowners by evening.

Bar SpetsaBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 74131; www.barspetsa.org; Agios Mamas; h8pm-late Mar-Oct)

One of life’s great little bars, this Spetses institution never loses its easygoing atmosphere. Find it 50m beyond Plateia Agiou Mama, on the road to the right of the kiosk.

RoussosCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22908 72819; Dapia Harbour; h7.30am-late)

Old-time Spetsiot coffee house with pastries, on the harbour.

8Information

Banks at Dapia Harbour have ATMs.

Bardakos Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 73141; hswbarda@yahoo.gr; Dapia Harbour; h8am-9pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) Sells ferry tickets and assists with other arrangements.

Municipal Information Kiosk ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.spetses.com.gr; h10am-9pm May-Sep) On the quay; seasonal staff provide answers to general questions about the island.

Port Authority ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22980 72245; Dapia) Just inland from the cafe terrace overlooking Dapia Harbour.

Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %Police 22980 73100, Tourist Police 22980 73744; Dapia; hmid-May–Sep) Housed with the port authority.

The Olympic Games

The Olympic Games were undoubtedly the ancient world’s biggest sporting event and remain for most athletes today the biggest of dreams. Then, as now, the Games made warring states temporarily halt their squabbles, and victorious competitors won great fame and considerable fortune.

Origins of the Games

Some Ancient Greek texts attribute the founding of the Games to the hero Pelops; others name Hercules as the founder who made Zeus the patron god of the Olympic sanctuary. The first official quadrennial Olympic Games were declared in 776 BC by King Iphitos of Elis, took place around the first full moon in August, and reached the height of their prestige in 576 BC.

During the ancient Games, writers, poets and historians read their works to large audiences; traders clinched business deals; and city-state leaders attempted to resolve differences through diplomacy.

Olympic Qualifications

In Ancient Greece only free-born Greek males were allowed to compete in the Games; the Romans changed the rules to include Roman citizens. Slaves and women were not allowed to enter the Olympic sanctuary even as spectators; women trying to sneak in were thrown from Mt Typaion. Today’s Summer Olympics include athletes from 204 countries, with 88 countries competing in the Winter Olympics.

Demise & Rebirth

During Roman times the Games declined. Held for the last time in AD 393, they were banned by Emperor Theodosius I as part of a purge of pagan festivals.

The modern Olympic Games were instituted in 1896 and, except during WWI and WWII, have been held every four years around the world ever since. The Olympic flame is lit at the ancient site and carried by runners to the city where the Games are held.

Scandal & Controversies

Throughout history the Olympics have been marred by scandals. These range from the farcical – Emperor Nero entering the chariot race in AD 67 with 10 horses, ordering that other competitors could only have four, falling off and still being declared winner – to the serious, including Israeli athletes being murdered by Palestinian group Black September in 1972, and Hitler refusing to award gold medals to African American sprinter Jesse Owens in 1936.

ANCIENT OLYMPICS VS MODERN OLYMPICS

AContemporary opening ceremonies may involve such displays as James Bond parachuting in. In Ancient Greece, it was all about sacrificing oxen to Zeus.

AAncient Greek events included wrestling, chariot and horse racing, the pentathlon (three foot races, the long jump and the discus), javelin, boxing and pankration (few-holds-barred fighting). Today’s Summer Olympics have been joined by the Winter Olympics; a total of 56 events across both games include modified sprinting, equestrian, boxing and wrestling.

AVictorious ancient Olympians were crowned with sacred olive branches and enjoyed tax exemption and other privileges. Modern Olympians receive medals, TV fame and sponsorship fortune.