Antiparos ΑΝΤΙΠΑΡΟΣ

Pop 1200

Antiparos lies dreamily offshore from Paros. As soon as your ferry docks, you feel a distinct slowing down in the pace of things. The main village and port (also called Antiparos) are relaxed. There’s a touristy gloss around the waterfront and main street, but the village runs deep inland to quiet squares and alleyways that give way suddenly to open fields.

The rest of the island runs to the south of the main settlement through quiet countryside. There are several decent beaches, especially at Glyfa and Soros, and one of Greece's most celebrated caves. There’s also a ‘secret getaway’ factor to the island that puts it on the radar of those who don’t like to be disturbed: Euro royalty, Hollywood stars (Tom Hanks has a villa on the island) and A-list rock stars holiday here.

1Sights & Activities

Antiparos TownVILLAGE

( GOOGLE MAP )

The main town is well worth a wander. Its long pedestrianised main street is lined with services and a whole lot of stylish boutiques, bars and restaurants. Follow it to the end, to the distinctive, giant plane tree of Plateia Agios Nikolaou. From here, a narrow lane leads to the intriguing remnants of the old Venetian kastro, entered through an archway. This old fortified settlement dates from the mid-15th century.

oCave of AntiparosCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://antiparos.gr; adult/child €5/2.50; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Jun, to 4pm May & Sep, to 3pm Apr)

About 10km south of the port, this huge and atmospheric cave remains impressive despite much looting of stalactites and stalagmites in the past (check out the ancient graffiti from past visitors; one dates from 1776). Descending the 400-plus concrete steps into the well-lit cave is an enthralling experience – beware the climb out! To get to the cave, follow the coastal road south until you reach a signposted turn-off. A bus runs here from the port (€1.80).

Anti Art GalleryGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61544; https://antiartgallery.gr; h7pm-12.30am Jun-Sep)

In true Antiparos fashion, the 'anti' Art Gallery has late hours and an excellent run of scheduled exhibitions, detailed on its website. The brainchild of curator Mary Chatzaki, it plays an entertaining, educational role in island life.

Historical & Folklore Museum of AntiparosMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61417; €3; h10am-9pm summer)

This tiny new museum on the main street shows off intriguing old photographs, maps, manuscripts and all sorts of bits and pieces associated with life on the island.

2Activities

Captain Sargos Boat TripsBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6973794876; www.sargosantiparos.gr; per person €25)

Operating out of Agios Georgios, Yorgos runs three-to-four-hour boat trips that include a visit to the archaeological site on nearby Despotiko island, time to swim or laze on the island's spectacular beach, and a cruise through local sea caves. Also available for local charters.

Blue Island DiversDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61767; www.blueisland-divers.gr; dives from €60, PADI certification from €240)

On the northern waterfront is this operator, offering fun dives, PADI courses, and information on the island.

4Sleeping

Camping AntiparosCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61221; www.camping-antiparos.gr; campsite per adult/child/tent €8/4/3; hMay-Sep; W)

This chilled-out beachside campground is planted with bamboo ‘compartments’ and cedars. There's a bar, minimarket and free wi-fi. It’s 1.5km north of the port (pick-up is available).

oArtemis HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61460; www.artemisantiparos.com; d incl breakfast €80-90; hApr–mid-Oct)

The elegant, marble-lined rooms at Artemis (at the far northern end of the harbour) are compact but well priced, and have lovely private terraces (opt for a sea-view room). The common areas are stylishly appealing, and rates include a good breakfast. Family-run and friendly, rates halve out of the high season.

Beach House AntiparosRESORT€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 64000; http://beachhouseantiparos.com; ste from €220; hmid-May–Sep; aW)

This is a glossy boutique resort on Apandima beach, with a ‘beach house’ housing nine suites (some family-sized). There’s an upmarket beachside restaurant serving brunch, lunch and dinner, a beach bar and sunbeds, all open to nonguests. From the beach, arrange a massage, charter a boat or peek in the concept store.

5Eating

Elia KafenesCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61704; mains from €7; h9am-2am)

A handwritten menu details the day's offerings at this cool little cafe-bar just back from the waterfront on the main street. Stop by for a tasty breakfast or for tapas and drinks.

oMargarita CafeCAFE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61491; www.facebook.com/margaritaantiparos; mains from €10; h9am-late; W)

Strolling down Antiparos' main street, you'll find it hard to continue on past the Margarita Cafe – shaded seating both on the street and on the verandah under a huge palm tree make this the spot. There are snacks and sandwiches during the day, pastas, risottos and seafood for dinner, plus a good range of beer and wine. Free wi-fi and extremely friendly service.

oCaptain PipinosTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 21823; http://captainpipinos.com; mains €6-15, fish by kg; hlunch & dinner)

In the island’s south, right on the water at Agios Georgios and with panoramas of neighbouring uninhabited Despotiko, Captain Pipinos is a gloriously old-school fish taverna. Octopus dishes are a top pick (you’ll see them drying), as is anything with fresh fish.

8Information

From the ferry quay, go right along the waterfront. The main street, Agora, heads inland just by the Anarghyros Restaurant, and you’ll find most services you need here, including groceries and banks. To reach the central square turn left at the top of the main street and then right.

See www.antiparos.gr for more information.

There are several tour and travel agencies, including Oliaris Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61231; www.antiparostravel.gr), where you can ask about the local bus.

8Getting There & Away

In summer, frequent small passenger boats depart for Antiparos from Parikia (€5), and numerous operators offer day cruises taking in the beaches of both islands, departing from Parikia, Pounta, Aliki and Naoussa.

There’s also a regular car ferry that runs from Pounta on the west coast of Paros to Antiparos (one-way €1.10, per scooter €1.40, per car €5.90, one or two services hourly, 10 minutes). You can take a car rented on Paros to Antiparos on this ferry.

8Getting Around

A bus service runs from the port to the cave, and another services the east-coast beaches as far as Agios Georgios; tickets cost €1.80. The schedule varies with the season; in theory, buses run from April to September.

Wheels can be hired from Aggelos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22840 61626; http://antiparosrentacar.com), the first office as you come from the ferry quay. Cars start at about €40 per day (high season), scooters €15 and bicycles €5.

Naxos ΝΑΞΟΣ

Pop 18,900

The largest of the Cyclades, Naxos packs a lot of bang for its buck. Its main city of Hora (known also as Naxos) has a gorgeous waterfront and a web of steep cobbled alleys below its hilltop kastro, all filled with the hubbub of tourism and shopping. You needn’t travel far, though, to find isolated beaches, atmospheric mountain villages and ancient sites.

Naxos was a cultural centre of Classical Greece and Byzantium, and Venetian and Frankish influences also left their mark. Its high mountains form rain clouds, and consequently Naxos is more fertile and green than most of the other Cyclades islands. It produces olives, grapes, figs, citrus fruit, corn and potatoes. Mt Zeus (also known as Mt Zas; 1004m) is the Cyclades’ highest peak and is the central focus of the island’s mountainous interior, where you will find enchanting villages such as Halki and Apiranthos.

DRINKING IN THE HISTORY

It was on Naxos that an ungrateful Theseus is said to have abandoned Ariadne after she helped him escape the Cretan labyrinth. She didn’t pine long, and was soon entwined with Dionysos, the god of wine and ecstasy, and the island’s favourite deity. Naxian wine has long been considered a useful antidote to a broken heart.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Like Paros, Naxos is something of a ferry hub in the Cyclades, with a similar number of conventional and fast ferries making regular calls to/from Piraeus, plus links to/from the mainland port of Rafina via the northern Cyclades.

Air

There are daily flights to/from Athens (€95, 45 minutes) with Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com).

Boat Services From Naxos

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Amorgos	2-6hr	11	2-5 daily
Amorgos*	1hr-1½hr	24	2 daily
Anafi	3¾hr	19	2 weekly
Astypalea	3¾hr	34	5 weekly
Donousa	1-4hr	7	7 weekly (note: not daily)
Folegandros	3hr 10min	17	1 weekly
Folegandros*	2½hr-4hr	49	6 weekly
Ios	1-2hr	14	1-2 daily
Ios*	50min	25	1-2 daily
Iraklia	1-1½hr	7	1-2 daily
Iraklio*	3hr 40min	70	1 daily
Kimolos	4hr 40min	17	1 weekly
Koufonisia	2½hr	8	1-2 daily
Koufonisia*	40-50min	19	1-2 daily
Milos	6hr	21	1 weekly
Milos*	3½-5½hr	59	6 weekly
Mykonos	2½hr	18	1 daily
Mykonos*	40min-1½hr	29	4-5 daily
Paros	50hr	10	4-5 daily
Paros*	30min	16	3 daily
Piraeus	5¼hr	34	2-4 daily
Piraeus*	3½hr	57	2 daily
Rafina	6hr	32	1 daily
Rafina*	4hr	52	2 daily
Santorini (Thira)	2hr	19	1-2 daily
Santorini (Thira)*	1hr 35min	38	4-5 daily
Schinousa	1¼hr-2hr	7	1-2 daily
Sikinos	2hr 20min	13	1 weekly
Syros	3h 10min	15	1 weekly
Tinos*	2hr	29	2 daily

* High-speed services

Note: journey times vary with vessel type and routing.

8Getting Around

To/From The Airport

The airport (JNX; GOOGLE MAP ; www.naxos.net/airport) is 3km south of Hora. There’s no shuttle bus, but buses to Agios Prokopios Beach and Agia Anna pass close by. A taxi costs €10 to €15 depending on the amount of luggage you have, the time of day and if booked.

Bus

Frequent buses run to Agios Prokopios Beach (€1.60) and Agia Anna (€1.60) from Hora. Seven buses daily serve Filoti (€2.30) via Halki (€2); five serve Apiranthos (€3.10) via Filoti and Halki; and at least two serve Apollonas (€6.20), Pyrgaki (€2.30) and Melanes (€1.60). There are less frequent departures to other villages.

Buses leave from the end of the ferry quay in Hora; timetables are posted outside the bus information office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22291; www.naxosdestinations.com; Harbour), diagonally left and across the road from the bus stop. You have to buy tickets from the office or from the machine outside (not from the bus driver).

Car & Motorcycle

August rates for hire cars range from about €45 to €65 per day, and quad bikes from €30. Hire from Naxos Auto Rent (%22850 41350; http://naxosautorent.com), Rental Center (%22850 23395; www.rentalcenter.com.gr; Plateia Evripeou), Auto Tour ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 25480; www.naxosrentacar.com) or Fun Car ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 26084; www.funcarandrides.com).

Taxi

Due to its large size, most visitors to Naxos rely on buses or their own wheels to travel around. Taxis (%22850 22444) are an option for shorter trips (eg Hora to Agios Prokopios Beach or Agia Anna for around €10). Taxis cluster at the port, or you can call one.

Hora (Naxos) Χώρα (Νάξος)

Pop 6700

Hora has the colour and bustle you'd expect of the island's port and capital. Settled on the west coast, the old town is a tangle of steep footpaths and is divided into two historic Venetian neighbourhoods: Bourgos, where the Greeks lived, and the hilltop Kastro, where the Roman Catholics lived.

Despite being fairly large, Hora can still be easily managed on foot. It’s almost impossible not to get lost in the old town, however, and maps are of little use.

Hora (Naxos)

1Top Sights

1KastroC3

1Sights

2Agios Georgios BeachA7

3Archaeological MuseumD3

4Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian MuseumC3

5Folk Museum CollectionC2

6Mitropolis MuseumC1

7Tower of SanoudosD3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Naxos BikeC1

9Naxos ToursC4

4Sleeping

10Despina's RoomsC2

11Hotel GaliniA7

12Hotel GlarosB7

13Nikos Verikokos StudiosC4

5Eating

14Anna's Garden CaféD7

15DoukatoB2

16LabyrinthC2

17L'OsteriaC4

18Meze 2B3

19O ApostolisC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

20520C3

21Citron CafeC4

22DaCostaB2

23La VigneC2

24Naxos CafeC2

25The Rum BarC3

3Entertainment

Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian MuseumC3

7Shopping

26Kiriakos TziblakisC5

27Kohili JewelsB2

28Papyrus Jewellery & Used BooksC3

29ZoomC4

Naxos - A colourful, lively island with a strong cultural heritage | VIVOOO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1Sights

oKastroAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The most alluring part of Hora is the 13th-century residential neighbourhood of Kastro, which Marco Sanudo made the capital of his duchy in 1207. Behind the waterfront, get lost in the narrow alleyways scrambling up to its spectacular hilltop location. Venetian mansions survive in the centre of Kastro, and you can see the remnants of the castle, the Tower of Sanoudos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). To see the Bourgos area of the old town, head into the winding backstreets behind the northern end of Paralia.

oTemple of ApolloARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(The Portara; GOOGLE MAP )F

From Naxos Town harbour, a causeway leads to the Palatia islet and the striking, unfinished Temple of Apollo, Naxos’ most famous landmark (also known as the Portara, or ‘Doorway’). Simply two marble columns with a crowning lintel, it makes an arresting sight, and people gather at sunset for splendid views.

Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22387; www.naxosfestival.com; €5; h10am-10pm)

This atmospheric museum is in a handsome old tower house of the 13th century, within the kastro ramparts (by the northwest gate). Wander through the rooms to see how the original Italian aristocrat owners lived, what they wore and how they furnished their rooms. There are changing art exhibitions in the vaults. Concerts and other events are frequently staged in the museum and its grounds.

Agios Georgios BeachBEACH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Conveniently just south of the waterfront is sandy Agios Georgios, Naxos’ town beach. It’s backed by hotels and tavernas at the town end (where it can get crowded), but it runs for some way to the south, where you can spread out a little. Its shallow waters make it great for families.

Mitropolis MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 24151; Plateia Mitropolis; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)F

Behind the northern end of the waterfront are several churches and chapels, as well as the Mitropolis Museum. It features fragments of a Mycenaean city (13th–11th centuries BC) that was abandoned because of the threat of flooding. Glass panels underfoot reveal ancient foundations.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22725; Kastro; adult/child €3/free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

This museum in Kastro is housed in the former Jesuit school where novelist Nikos Kazantzakis was briefly a pupil. It’s slightly musty but contains fascinating finds from the Ionic and Doric eras, and some splendid Early Cycladic marble figurines.

Folk Museum CollectionMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 25561; www.naxosfolkmuseum.com; Old Market St; €3; h10am-2pm & 7-10pm)

This small but well-curated collection gives a digestible account of elements that make Naxos’ history special: succinct displays cover farming, bee-keeping, weaving, bread-making, winemaking and cheese production. It’s a privately owned collection and worth a stop.

2Activities & Tours

oNaxos BikeCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 25887, 6932795125; www.naxosbikes.com; bike hire per day from €10)

Get all of your equipment here, from electric-, road-, mountain- and trekking-bikes to children’s seats. Local expert Giannis knows everything there is to know about bikes, and can set you up with maps to get you exploring. He also leads three-hour tours (per person €30, minimum two people).

Flisvos Sport ClubWINDSURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 24308; www.flisvos-sportclub.com; Agios Georgios Beach)

Well-organised beach club offering a range of windsurfing courses (one-hour private lesson from €40), catamaran sailing (one-hour rental from €40) and mountain-bike rental (from €15 per day). It also has a cool cafe, accommodation and the options of beach volleyball, a fitness centre and yoga.

Naxos Horse RidingHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6948809142; www.naxoshorseriding.com; 2/3hr ride €45/55; hMon-Sat)

Organises daily morning, afternoon and sunset horse rides inland and on beaches. Staff can arrange pick-up and return to and from the stables. Beginners, young children and advanced riders are all catered for.

Naxos ToursTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 24000; www.naxostours.net; island bus tour adult/child €30/15; h8am-10pm)

Call into this agency on the waterfront to find out about its array of tours and excursions, including an island tour by bus, guided walks and daily cruises. There are frequent excursion boats to Delos and Mykonos (adult/child €45/20), Santorini (€55/30), and Iraklia and Koufonisia (€40/20), plus sailing explorations of various parts of Naxos.

4Sleeping

Hora has plenty of accommodation places (the majority open year-round), including numerous options backing the town beach, Agios Georgios. Book early for July and August.

The best campgrounds are at the beaches south of Hora (Agia Anna and Plaka); minibuses from these grounds will meet the ferries.

Despina’s RoomsPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22356; www.despinarooms.gr; Kastro; d €60; aW)

Despina has been renting simple, comfy rooms for more than 50 years, and they’re a steal. Tucked away in the heart of Kastro (reached with a climb), some have sea views. Rooms on the roof terrace are popular despite their smaller size. There’s a communal kitchen.

oPension SofiPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 23077; www.pensionsofi.gr; r €90; paW)

Run by members of the friendly Koufopoulos family, guests at Pension Sofi are met with family-made wine or cake and immaculate rooms, each with a freshly renovated bathroom and a basic kitchen. Sofi is a short walk back from the waterfront. Let them know your arrival details for a complimentary pick-up at the port. Rates halve out of high season.

oHotel GrottaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22215; www.hotelgrotta.gr; off Kontoleontos; d incl breakfast €110-135; aW)

Located on high ground overlooking the kastro and main town, this excellent hotel has immaculate rooms, great sea views from the front, spacious public areas and a cool indoor Jacuzzi area. It’s made even better by the cheerful, attentive atmosphere. A rooftop garden bar and complimentary port and airport transfers make Hotel Grotta a top choice.

Ippokampos Beachfront HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 24648; www.ippokampos-naxos.com; Agios Georgios Beach; r incl breakfast from €105; hmid-Apr–mid-Nov; paW)

Part of a stylish all-white beachfront complex that includes a restaurant-bar, this nine-room hotel offers accommodation kitted out with a dash of panache. Cheaper economy rooms are smaller. All share a fab terrace, and the gorgeous beach is right outside your door.

Nikos Verikokos StudiosHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22025; www.nikos-verikokos.com; Naxos Town; s/d/tr €90/100/120; aW)

Friendly Nikos maintains immaculate rooms in the heart of the old town. Some have balconies and sea views, most have little kitchenettes. They offer port pick-up with pre-arrangement.

Hotel GaliniHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22114; www.hotelgalini.com; d incl breakfast from €90; aW)

A nautical theme lends this super-friendly place loads of character. Updated, spacious rooms have small balconies and wrought-iron beds, plus great decor creatively fashioned from seashells and driftwood. The location is first-rate – close to the old town and the beach – and the breakfast is hearty.

Hotel GlarosBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 23101; www.hotelglaros.com; Agios Georgios Beach; d €150-180; hApr-Oct; aiW)

Edgy yet homey, simple yet plush, this well-run and immaculate 13-room hotel has a seaside feel in its boutique fit-out. Service is thoughtful, there’s an indoor Jacuzzi, the beach is only a few steps away and it’s adults only. Breakfast is €10.

5Eating

Hora has fantastic dining. For the freshest seafood, head to the tavernas on the waterfront where the fishermen hang out and sample their catch. Naxian cheeses, sausages and potatoes are also well worth taste-testing.

oDoukatoGREEK€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 27013; www.facebook.com/doukatonaxos; Old Town; mains from €8; h6pm-late)

In a magical setting that has been a monastery, church and a school, Doukato is capturing plenty of attention on the Naxos dining scene. Its award-winning chef produces top Naxian specialities such as gouna (sun-dried mackerel), kalogeras (beef, eggplant & cheese) and their unbelievably delicious Doukato 'Special' souvlaki. A lot of pride at the heart of the Old Town.

Anna’s Garden CaféCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 26774; http://annasorganicnaxos.blogspot.com; Paparrigopoulou; dishes €5-10; h9am-2pm & 6-9pm May-Sep; vc)

Entirely earthy feeling and 100% organic, Anna’s creates a lunchtime dish of the day, driven by local, seasonal produce. Breakfasts are good: think homemade muesli and yoghurt, spelt bread or omelettes. Anna’s also supplies picnic baskets if ordered a day in advance.

LabyrinthGREEK€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22253; mains €10-17; hlunch & dinner)

It’s a toss-up as to which is more welcoming here: the warm interior or the pretty, private courtyard. Munch through marinated vegies with grilled manouri (soft cheese from the north), swordfish with herbs, or seafood risotto with ouzo sauce. The name is apt: it has a sign, but is easiest to find if you enter the winding alleys from the north.

L’OsteriaITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 24080; www.osterianaxos.com; mains €10-16; h7pm-midnight)

This authentic Italian eatery is tucked away in a small alley uphill from the harbour, beneath the kastro walls. Grab a table in the cute courtyard and prepare to be impressed: the appetising menu changes daily, but there’s also an unchanging list of bruschetta, salads and delectable antipasti.

O ApostolisGREEK€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 26777; Old Market St; mains €8-15; hlunch & dinner)

Right at the heart of labyrinthine Bourgos, O Apostolis serves up tasty dishes in its pretty flagstone courtyard. The kleftiko (lamb wrapped in filo pastry), with sautéed vegetables and feta cheese, is delicious.

Meze 2SEAFOOD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 26401; mains €6-15; hlunch & dinner)

It would be easy to dismiss this waterfront restaurant at the harbour as a tourist trap, but don’t. Its Cretan and Naxian menu and fantastic service make it stand out from the bunch. The seafood is superb – try squid stuffed with local cheese, grilled sardines, or mussels in ouzo and garlic.

6Drinking & Nightlife

There are a few large, louder clubs at the southern end of the waterfront, and some great bars offering big views and cocktails from upper floors along the waterfront.

oThe Rum BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6948592718; h8pm-late)

Perched upstairs above Hora's busy waterfront, this newbie has lovely sunset views looking out over the yacht harbour. Open year-round, Rum Bar plays rock classics and occasionally features live music. Original cocktails are the name of the game here – try the Isla Tropical, which includes a healthy dose of Naxos kitron.

Naxos CafeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 26343; Old Market St; h8pm-2am)

If you want to drink but don’t fancy the club scene, here’s your answer. This atmospheric, traditional bar is small and candlelit and spills into the cobbled Bourgos street. Drink Naxian wine with the locals.

520BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6976251135; h9am-late)

With a deck overlooking the harbour, this cool, comfortable bar whips up the most divine cocktails. Have breakfast, read a newspaper or party – it’s all possible in this chic, cushioned interior.

La VigneWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 27199; www.lavignenaxos.com; h7pm-1am)

For a relaxed take on Naxian nightlife, head for this cheerful wine bar just behind Plateia Mandilara. It’s run by two French expats who know more than a thing or two about fine wines and good conversation. Excellent fusion food too.

Citron CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 27055; Protopapadaki; h8am-late)

You can begin your day on a sofa here, with coffee and a harbour view, and end it with a glass of local wine or kitron (liqueur made from the leaves of the citron tree) from Halki’s distillery. Check out the kitron-based cocktails (€6) for local flavour.

DaCostaCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6975939104)

Right behind the port police, this sleek club brings well-known guest DJs from Athens to play dance music into the wee hours. All white and wood and chic, it has a loungy feel, which gives you somewhere to relax while you contemplate the well-stocked bar.

3Entertainment

oDella Rocca-Barozzi Venetian MuseumLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22387; www.naxosfestival.com; Kastro; event admission €15-20; h8pm Apr-Oct)

Special evening cultural events are held outside at the museum, almost nightly in summer. Posters around town advertise what’s on the horizon. It may be traditional music and dance concerts, classical piano recitals, bouzouki, or jazz and blues. There may even be screenings of Zorba the Greek. There's an inside venue on the off-chance it rains.

7Shopping

Kohili JewelsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22557; h10am-11pm)

Hidden in the maze of small streets behind the waterfront, Kohili is chock-full of goodies. This is a good spot to purchase jewellery made from the Eye of Naxos, the hard shell that develops in the hole of a shellfish. The eye in the beautiful rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets is said to bring good luck and fortune.

Papyrus Jewellery & Used BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 23039)

What began as a box of books left by a traveller has turned into a shockingly organised collection of over 10,000 second-hand books, covering multiple languages and genres. It’s uphill from the port, behind Meze 2.

Kiriakos TziblakisFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22230; Papavasiliou)

The pungent aromas will bowl you over as soon as you get through the door of this colourful wonderland, a family store dating from 1938. It’s where locals come to buy bulk spices, olives, honey and cheese, and it’s crammed with a photogenic jumble of local produce and goods, from pots to brushes, soaps to ouzo and raki.

ZoomBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 23675; Paralia; h10am-10pm)

A large, well-stocked newsagent and bookshop that has most international newspapers the day after publication and perhaps the best collection of postcards in Greece.

8Information

There’s no official tourist office on Naxos. Travel agencies can deal with most queries. Handy online resources include www.naxos.gr.

Naxos Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 24000; www.naxostours.net; Paralia; h8am-10pm) Sells ferry tickets and organises accommodation, excursions and car hire.

Zas Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 23330; www.zastravel.com; h9am-9pm) Sells ferry tickets and organises accommodation, tours and car hire. Shorter hours in winter. Located on the harbourfront.

Information Booth ( GOOGLE MAP ) At the ferry quay in summer. Opens when ferries arrive.

Alpha Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Paralia & Papavasiliou) Has an ATM.

National Bank of Greece ( GOOGLE MAP ; Paralia) Has an ATM.

Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 23550; Prantouna) On the eastern edge of town.

Police Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 22100; Paparrigopoulou) Southeast of Plateia Evripeou.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Agios Georgios) Go past the OTE, across Papavasiliou, and left at the forked road.

Around Naxos

Southwest Beaches

Beaches south of Agios Georgios (Hora’s town beach) include beautiful Agios Prokopios, which is sandy and shallow and lies in a sheltered bay to the south of the headland of Cape Mougkri. It merges with Agia Anna, a stretch of shining white sand, quite narrow but long enough to feel uncrowded towards its southern end. Development is fairly solid at Prokopios and the northern end of Agia Anna.

Sandy beaches continue as far as Pyrgaki, passing the beautiful turquoise waters of the long, dreamy Plaka Beach and gorgeous sandy bays punctuated with rocky outcrops. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, accommodation and bus stops along this stretch – it’s an idyllic place for a chilled-out beach stay. Maragas Beach Camping ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 42552; www.maragascamping.gr; Agia Anna Beach; camp sites per adult/tent €9/2, d/studio from €40/€60) has a good set-up across from a long sandy strand south of Agia Anna: camping, studios and rooms, a supermarket and a taverna. There’s a regular bus from Hora that stops out front.

At Mikri Vigla (http://mikrivigla.com), golden granite slabs and boulders divide the beach into two. This beach is becoming an increasingly big fish on the kitesurfing scene, with reliable wind conditions. Flisvos Kite Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6945457407; www.flisvos-kitecentre.com) offers kite- and windsurfing classes and rents equipment to certified surfers. You can stay next door at Orkos Beach Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 75194; www.orkosbeach.gr; s/d/apt incl breakfast €75/105/166; hmid-May–Sep; aWs), where rooms are clean and comfy but will hardly see you as you’ll be too busy on the beach.

Halki Χάλκη

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This village is a vivid reflection of historic Naxos, with the handsome facades of old villas and tower houses a legacy of its wealthy past as the island’s long-ago capital. Today it’s home to a small but fascinating collection of shops and galleries, drawing artists and culinary wizards. Halki lies at the heart of the Tragaea mountainous region, about 20 minutes’ drive (15km) from Hora.

The main road skirts Halki, with parking areas near the entry (from Hora) and exit of town (the latter by the schoolyard). Pedestrian lanes lead off the main road to the picturesque square at the heart of Halki.

Paths radiate from Halki through peaceful olive groves and flower-filled meadows. The atmospheric 11th-century Church of St Georgios Diasorites lies a short distance to the north of the village. It contains some splendid frescoes.

1Sights

Fish & OliveGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 31771; www.fish-olive-creations.com; hMay–mid-Oct)

This gallery displays the exquisite work of Naxian potter Katharina Bolesch and her partner, artist and craftsman Alexander Reichardt. Each piece of work reflects ancient Mediterranean themes of fish and olives, motifs that frame the edges of shining plates, tumble down the sides of elegant jugs and bowls and dart across platters. The artists’ work has been exhibited nationally and internationally. There’s also a boutique selling their works a few metres from the gallery.

Phos GalleryGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 31118; www.phosgallery.gr; hMay-Oct)

See the island through the lens of talented photographer Dimitris Gavalas. Stunning landscapes – mostly of Naxos – grace the walls of this gallery, along with a handful of conceptual prints.

DON'T MISS

LOCAL LIQUEUR

The citron fruit (Citrus medica) looks like a very large, lumpy lemon and is barely edible in its raw state. The rind is quite flavoursome when preserved in syrup, however, and kitron, a strong liqueur made from citron leaves, has been a hallmark of Naxos since the late 19th century.

Leaves are collected from October to February, dried, dampened and distilled up to three times with water and sugar. Dye is then added to mark its strength: yellow is the strongest and green is the lightest and sweetest. Clear is somewhere in the middle.

Visit the Vallindras Distillery ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 31220; h10am-10pm Jul & Aug, to 6pm May-Jun & Sep-Oct) in Halki to sample all three, or try Citron Cafe in Hora.

5Eating

Dolce VitaBAKERY, CAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6981467240; snacks €3-7; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

Cool and inviting, with dark wood and a gramophone daring to be wound, this is the place to lounge over homemade baking, coffee and ice cream.

Giannis TavernaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 31214; dishes €5-12; hlunch & dinner)

With tables filling Halki’s pretty central square under a leafy overhang, Giannis is well known for traditional fare. Try moussaka, pork souvlaki, savoury pies or village sausage.

Il BasilicoITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22859 31140; mains €10-25; hdinner Jun-Sep)

Near the entrance to Halki coming from Hora, this lively restaurant offers an excellent, changing menu, sourcing ingredients daily. The garden patio and colourful tiles add to the atmosphere (as do the excellent Italian wines).

7Shopping

PenelopeARTS & CRAFTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 31754)

The know-how has been passed down to Penelope through at least four generations, and her fingers and feet fly on the loom. Watch her incorporate traditional designs into hats, scarves, bags and tablecloths that make fab souvenirs. You'll notice a lot of red and blue – the traditional colours of Naxos.

Era Jam WorkshopFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22859 31009)

A visit to this shop gives you a peek into the open workshop where more than 20kg of delicious marmalade, jam and spoon desserts are made every day. This stuff is only sold on the island; taste it while you can!

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

TRAGAEA & MT ZEUS

Naxos’ lovely inland Tragaea (Τραγαια) region is a vast plain of olive groves and unspoilt villages high in the mountains, harbouring numerous little Byzantine churches. The Cyclades’ highest peak, Mt Zeus (1004m; also known as Mt Zas), dominates the landscape. Filoti, on the slopes of Mt Zeus, is the region’s largest village.

To climb Mt Zeus from Filoti, walk 40 minutes up to Aria Spring, a verdant fountain and picnic area, carry on another 20 minutes to the Cave of Zeus, and then climb to the summit in another 45 minutes.

Alternatively, if you have a car and want to shorten the walk, there’s a junction signposted to Aria Spring and Zas Cave, about 800m up from Filoti on the main road. This side road ends after 1.3km. From the road-end parking it's a short walk to Aria Spring, and you can carry on to the cave and summit from there.

An option for the descent, if you hike up via the cave, is to walk down via the little chapel of Agia Marina to Filoti. You can walk down this route on waymarked track Number 2 in about 1½ hours.

Make sure to take good walking shoes, water and sunscreen.

Panagia Drosiani Παναγία Δροσιανή

Panagia DrosianiCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; donations appreciated; h10am-7pm May–mid-Oct)

Located 2.5km north of Halki, just below Moni, the small, peaceful Panagia Drosiani is among the oldest and most revered churches in Greece. Inside is a series of cavelike chapels. In the darkest chapels, monks and nuns secretly taught Greek language and religion to local children during the Turkish occupation. Several frescoes still grace the walls, and date from the 7th century. Look for the depiction of Mary in the eastern chapter; the clarity and expression is incredible.

Sangri Σαγκρί

Temple of DemeterTEMPLE

(Dimitra’s Temple; GOOGLE MAP )

About 2km south of the village of Sangri is the 6th-century BC Temple of Demeter. The ruins and reconstructions are not large, but they are historically interesting. Demeter was the goddess of grain, and temples were built to her in fertile areas such as the valley running south from Sangri; the remains were discovered in 1949. Signs point the way from Sangri.

Bazeos TowerTOWER

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 31402; www.bazeostower.gr)

The handsome Bazeos Tower stands prominently in the landscape about 2km east of Sangri. It was built in its original form as a monastery during the 17th century, and was later bought by the Bazeos family, whose modern descendants have refurbished the building with skill and imagination. The castle now functions as a cultural centre and stages art exhibitions and the annual Naxos Festival in July and August, when concerts, plays and literary readings are held.

Melanes Μέλανες

Marble QuarriesLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

The area between Melanes and Kinidaros has been the island's marble quarry since ancient times. Marble is still collected from this region, and you'll see sides of the mountains sliced open and looking like huge slabs of feta.

Kouros of FlerioMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP )

In Flerio, near Mili, is an ancient marble-working area. There remain two examples of kouroi, large marble statues created in the 7th and 6th centuries BC. Each measures about 5.5m and both are in a broken state (the theory being that they were damaged during transportation or were simply left unfinished by dissatisfied sculptors). The first kouros you come to is lying on its back under a tree; the second is on a hillside about 800m away.

Eggares Olive PressMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 62021; www.olivemuseum.com; h9am-6pm May-Sep)F

A worthy side-trip is to this sweet set-up in the village of Eggares, 7km from Hora. A guide explains the workings of this small olive press (in operation from 1850 to 1960), and there are free tastings of olive-based products. The store here sells oil, pastes, soaps and unguents, plus cake and coffee.

Apiranthos Απείρανθος

Apiranthos seems to grow out of the stony flanks of rugged Mt Fanari (883m), about 25km east of Hora (or 10 winding kilometres from Halki). The village’s unadorned stone houses and marble-paved streets reflect a rugged individualism that is matched by the villagers themselves. Many of them are descendants of refugees who migrated from Crete, and today the village’s distinctive form of the Greek language has echoes of the ‘Great Island’. Apiranthos people have always been noted for their spirited politics and populism, and the village has produced a remarkable number of academics. These days, the village is peppered with quirky shops, galleries and cafes, and it’s a lovely place to spend an afternoon.

5Eating

Taverna O PlatanosGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 61192; mains €6-13; hlunch & dinner)

Set beneath the shade of its namesake plane tree, this lively family restaurant serves up everything from yoghurt and homemade cheeses to grilled local meat. Try the hearty traditional dish of ‘rosto’ pork in tomato sauce. They've also got seating on a terrace with glorious views out over the valley – and some intriguing old weaponry on display.

LefterisGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 61333; www.stoulefteri.gr; mains €10-22; hlunch & dinner May-Oct)

With a deck taking in a phenomenal view, this charming, well-regarded place has the look and feel of an old country kitchen. Not much has changed here in a while! The short menu homes in on local cheeses and grilled meats – try lamb, steak or a burger stuffed with cheese and tomato.

The North

Heading north from the mountains inland, the roads wind and twist like spaghetti, eventually taking you to the somewhat scrappy seaside village of Apollonas. In an ancient quarry on the hillside above the village is a colossal 7th-century BC kouros, much larger and easier to find than the Kouros of Flerio. Follow the small signs to get here.

Apollonas’ beach isn’t great but the seafood is. Tavernas line the waterfront and serve the freshest of fish.

A worthy side-trip is to Lionas, where a scenic 8km drive past old emery mines leads you to a lovely stony beach and a couple of tavernas. Delfinaki ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 51290; www.delfinaki.gr; Lionas; mains from €8) is super-friendly, serving up great home cooking and farm-fresh ingredients. Vassiliki, the hostess, sells homemade jams, 'spoon sweets' and wines.

With your own transport you can return to Hora via the northwest-coast road, passing through wild and sparsely populated country with awe-inspiring sea views. En route, stop for a look at the Tower of Ayia, the majestic ruins of a castle with a spectacular ocean backdrop.

Small Cyclades ΜΙΚΡΕΣ ΚΥΚΛΑΔΕΣ

The tiny islands that lie between Naxos and Amorgos are like miniature outposts of calm. In the days of antiquity, all were densely populated, revealed by the large number of ancient graves that have been uncovered. During the Middle Ages, only wild goats and even wilder pirates inhabited these islands. Post-independence, intrepid souls from Naxos and Amorgos recolonised the Small Cyclades, and today four have permanent populations – Iraklia, Schinousa, Ano Koufonisi and Donousa. Recently, the islands have welcomed a growing number of independent-minded tourists.

The Small Cyclades are officially under the administration of Naxos. Donousa is the northernmost of the group and the furthest from Naxos; the others are clustered near the larger island's southeast coast.

8Getting There & Away

There are several connections a week between Piraeus and the Small Cyclades via Naxos, and daily connections to/from Naxos. The Small Cyclades are off most tourists' radars, and unplanned old-fashioned island-hopping is still possible here outside high season; you'll have no problem finding a room at a reasonable rate. Make sure to book ahead for high season, though. For ferry schedules, visit http://ferries.gr.

ABlue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.gr) serves the Small Cyclades year-round. It has two routes, both beginning in Piraeus and calling at Paros and Naxos. From Naxos, three times a week the ferry calls at Donousa, then Amorgos (Aegiali) and terminates at Astypalea (in the Dodecanese). Three times a week, from Naxos the ferry stops at Iraklia, Schinousa and Koufonisia before terminating at Amorgos (Katapola).

The Small Cyclades Line runs the mainstay service, weather permitting in winter. Their sturdy little Express Skopelitis has been plying these waters for 35 years and is due for retirement. It is expected a new vessel will be ready for the 2018 season, but don't be surprised to see the Skopelitis back. It leave from Naxos in the afternoon daily Monday to Saturday, and calls at the Small Cyclades and Amorgos (often to both ports, Aegiali and Katapola). It then returns to Naxos early the following morning.

Iraklia Ηρακλεία

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Iraklia is only 19 sq km in area, a little Aegean gem dozing in the sun. Dump the party gear and spurn the nightlife, the sightseeing and the souvenir shops. Instead, brace yourself for a serene and quiet life, and Iraklia will not disappoint. Only in July and August will you have to share the idyll with like-minded others.

The port and main village of Iraklia is Agios Georgios. It has an attractive covelike harbour, complete with a sandy beach.

Boat Services From Iraklio

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Amorgos	1¾-4¾hr	8	1-2 daily
Donousa	2¼hr	8	3 weekly
Koufonisia	55min	5	1-2 daily
Naxos	1hr-1½hr	7	1-2 daily
Paros	2¼hr	12	3 weekly
Piraeus	8hr	35	3 weekly
Schinousa	10min	4	1-2 daily

1Sights & Activities

A surfaced road leads off to the left of the ferry quay, and after about 1km you’ll reach Livadi, the island’s best beach. A steep 2.5km further on is Hora (also called Panagia). From Hora, a surfaced road carries on to Tourkopigado Beach.

Walking

There are well-marked hiking trails of varying length all over the island. Get a map, make sure to wear decent walking shoes and take plenty of water.

Follow tracks 7, 4 and 3 from Agios Georgios to get to the Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Giannis ( GOOGLE MAP ) in about two hours. Alternatively, follow track 3 from Hora to get there in one hour.

Beyond the cave, a path leads to the beach at Alimina, which is also served by boat ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71145; hJun-Sep) from Agios Georgios in summer (offering a shortcut to the cave).

For a shorter walk from Agios Georgios, walk on track 8 for 30 minutes to reach the gorgeous cove of Vorini Spilla and a refreshing swim.

4Sleeping

MaïstraliROOMS€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71807; www.bluehotels.gr; r from €60; W)

In Agios Georgios, a few hundred metres up from the port, Maïstrali offers a range of simple, good-value rooms and apartments with rates that tumble to €30 out of high season. It also features a shady elevated terrace taverna that has all the Greek standards covered and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A good budget option.

Anna’s PlacePENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 74234; www.annasplace.gr; d/q €60/80; aW)

Located on high ground above the port is this lovely, well-run complex, set in pretty gardens and with balconies taking in sweeping views. Inside, each super-clean, comfortable room has a kitchenette; some are well suited to families. Transfers from and to the port are complimentary.

Speires HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 77015; www.speires.gr; d incl breakfast €125; hMay-Oct; aW)

This stylish boutique is a short walk uphill from the port, with white decor and flash bathrooms with all the mod-cons. Superior double rooms can fit a family. The terrace at the elegant on-site cafe and wine bar is a fine place to engage in a toast to holidaymaking.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oEn LefkoCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 77027; www.facebook.com/en.leuko.iraklia; h9am-late May-Sep)

This rooftop bar right on top of Perigiali Supermarket is lovingly run by local couple Nikos and Anna. There are brunch menus plus cocktails, drinks and snacks until the wee hours. One of few options in Iraklia if you feel the urge to have a late night.

8Information

There is an ATM by the harbour beach.

Schinousa Σχοινούσα

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Like its neighbours, Schinousa has an easygoing pace and a rare sense of timelessness, although high season can be relatively lively. With a total area of only 8.5 sq km, the island has a gentle landscape and is known for its beaches.

The major settlement Hora (Panagia) has a long, narrow main street lying along the breezy crest of the island. Ferries dock at the fishing harbour of Mersini. Hora is a 1km walk uphill from there.

Boat Services From Schinousa

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Amorgos	1½-4½hr	7	1-2 daily
Donousa	2hr	7	3 weekly
Iraklia	10min	4	1-2 daily
Koufonisia	30min	5	1-2 daily
Naxos	1hr 20min	7	1-2 daily
Paros	2hr 35min	13	3 weekly
Piraeus	8½hr	35	3 weekly

1Sights & Activities

Dirt tracks lead from Hora to beaches around the coast. The nearest are sandy Tsigouri and Livadi, both uncrowded outside August. Haul a little further southeast to decent beaches at Almyros with its shallow water and the small bays of Aligaria. Tsigouri, Livadi and Almyros have tavernas and/or beach bars. Just east of Mesaria in the north is Psili Ammos beach, good when a southerly is blowing.

AeoliaBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6979618233; boat trip €15-35)

From June to September, the Aeolia tour boat runs various daily trips, including around the beaches of the island, or to Iraklia and Koufonisia. Private trips can also be arranged. Ask about the week's schedule where you are staying.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are rooms down at Mersini (the port) and plenty of options in Hora. Domatia owners, with transport, meet ferries from about May onwards and will always meet booked guests. Book ahead in July and August.

oMeltemiPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71947; www.pension-meltemi.gr; d €70-80; aW)

Genuinely warm hospitality is the hallmark of this family-run pension and restaurant in the heart of Hora. Rooms are comfy and simple. You have a choice between older rooms in the Meltemi 1 building or newer rooms in Meltemi 2. Both are good. The on-site restaurant serves up delicious homemade meals. Free port and beach transfers too!

IliovasilemaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71948; www.iliovasilemahotel.gr; Hora; d incl breakfast €80; hmid-May–Sep; aW)

In Hora, but perched at the port end of town with king-of-the-castle sunset views (iliovaselima means sunset), rooms here are small, simple and spotless. The views out towards Iraklia from the balconies are fab, and the service is warm. Rates include a good buffet breakfast.

Kafe stou PeriCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 76030; dishes €2-8; h7am-late)

Open year-round, this colourful and friendly little cafe on the main street of Hora has crêpes, waffles, sandwiches and fresh salads, as well as breakfast options. There is also a well-stocked bar that keeps things pumping in the evening.

oFish Tavern & Rooms MersiniSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71159; www.mersini.gr; mains €8-18; hMay-Sep; aW)

Down at the port, Mersini woos diners with a stylish white fit-out, in a garden setting with great harbour views. It seals the deal with excellent seafood (especially squid). The five chic all-white rooms behind the taverna are some of the nicest on the island (double €80 to €100) and are an excellent option. Straight ahead 200m from the quay.

Deli Restaurant & Cafe-BarGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 74278; restaurant mains €15-25; hlunch & dinner Mar-Oct)

Deli’s upper floor features a top-notch restaurant with views out to Ios and Iraklia, while the ground floor houses a cool cafe-bar. On offer upstairs is a gourmet menu from the Cretan owner-chef using locally sourced ingredients, plus a wine list boasting some fine Greek vintages. Downstairs you'll find homemade sweets, coffees, drinks and cocktails and a cool crew.

8Information

For more information see www.schinousa.com and www.naxos.gr.

There’s an ATM outside Hora’s Paralos Travel.

Paralos Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71160; sparalos@otenet.gr) Halfway along Hora’s main street. It sells ferry tickets and also doubles as the post office and newsagent in season.

Koufonisia Κουφονήσια

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Koufonisia’s star is on the rise; it is becoming a fashionable island for in-the-know visitors and is referred to by locals as ‘the Mykonos of the Small Cyclades’.

It’s made up of three main islands, two of which, Kato Koufonisi and Keros, are uninhabited. The three cover a total of 26 sq km. You’ll arrive at the populated, low-lying Ano Koufonisi. It sees a flash-flood of tourism each summer season thanks to its superb beaches, good hotels and chic restaurants, and it welcomes a growing number of summer high-speed ferries from other Cycladic islands. The main street is a joy to wander along.

Still, the island retains its low-key charm, and a substantial fishing fleet sustains a thriving local community outside the fleeting summer season.

Boat Services From Koufonisia

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Amorgos	40min-3½hr	7	1-2 daily
Amorgos*	25min	14	1-2 daily
Donousa	1hr 10min	6	3 weekly
Folegandros*	2¼-5½hr	69	6 weekly
Iraklia	50min	5	1-2 daily
Milos*	3¼hr-6½hr	69	6 weekly
Mykonos*	1hr 40min	55	3 weekly
Naxos	2-2½hr	7	1-2 daily
Naxos*	40-50min	19	1-2 daily
Paros	3hr 20min	19	3 weekly
Paros*	1hr 25min	30	1 daily
Piraeus	9hr	35	3 weekly
Piraeus*	4¼hr-5hr	59	1-3 daily
Santorini*	1-4hr	50	6 weekly
Schinousa	30min	5	1-2 daily
Serifos*	2hr	48	1 daily
Sifnos*	1½hr	45	1 daily

* High-speed services

1Sights

Koufonisia’s only settlement spreads out behind the ferry quay. The older part of town, the Hora, sprawls along a low hill above the harbour, parallel to the coast, and is one long whitewashed main street lined with restaurants and cafes.

At the western end of the main street, you'll reach Loutro, with a stony cove, small boatyard, windmill and whitewashed church.

Other Islands

The flat profile of uninhabited Kato Koufonisi is just to the south of Ano Koufonisi and a short caïque ride away. If you've come by ferry from Schinousa, you'll have passed its entire length on your way to Ano Koufonisi. Kato Koufonisi has some beautiful beaches and a lovely church.

East of here is the dramatic Keros, a rugged mountain of an island with towering cliffs. Archaeological digs on Keros have uncovered more than 100 Early Cycladic figurines, including the famous harpist and flautist now on display in Athens’ National Archaeological Museum.

rBeaches

An easy 2km walk along the sandy coast road east of the port leads to Porta, Finikas and Fanos beaches. All tend to become swamped with grilling bodies in July and August, and nudity becomes more overt the further you go.

Beyond Fano, a walking path leads to several rocky swimming places, including the glorious Piscina, a swimming hole surrounded by rock that is linked to the sea. The path then continues to the great bay at Pori, where a long crescent of sand slides effortlessly into the dreamy clear sea. Pori can also be reached by an inland road from Hora.

2Activities & Tours

Bike HireCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6989637046; per day €4-10)

Bike hire is available from this shop at the eastern end of the town beach. Koufonisia is relatively flat, so cycling is a good option. Look for the sign on the end of the building.

Captain KostasBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71438, 6945042548; www.roussetoshotel.gr; hJun-Sep)

Head to the marina and hop on Captain Kostas' boat to transfer to/from various beaches around the island (€3-5 return depending on the beach) and Kato Koufonisi (€5 return). There's a ticket kiosk at the port, or inquire at Prasinos travel agency.

Koufonissia ToursBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 74435; www.koufonissiatours.gr; Villa Ostria)

Based at Villa Ostria, Koufonissia Tours organises sailing, diving and sea-kayaking trips around Koufonisia and the Small Cyclades.

4Sleeping

oErmis RoomsPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71693, 6972265240; www.koufonisia.gr/?page_id=1255&lang=en; d €70-80; aW)

These immaculate rooms are in a quiet location, behind a pretty white-and-lilac exterior and a flowering garden. Ask Sofia for a balcony with sea view. At the port end of the beach, take the road uphill to the left of Roussetos Hotel. Ermis Rooms is next to the pale green post office, also run by Sofia.

Anna VillasPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71697; www.annavillas.gr; d incl breakfast €100; aW)

In a quiet location, these fresh, bright studios are charming and run with warmth. All have balconies and kitchenettes. It’s a family-friendly spot, with a lovely reading nook and summertime cafe. Take the first left after the rental bike sign at the eastern end of the beach and climb the hill. On the left immediately after Villa Ostria.

Villa OstriaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71671; www.ostriavilla.gr; r/studio €75/95; aW)

One of several hotels on the high ground east of the beach, colourful Ostria has attractive rooms and studios with some quirky decor made from seashells and driftwood. Rooms have kitchenettes; spacious studios have kitchens. Take the first left after the rental bike sign at the eastern end of the beach and climb the hill.

5Eating & Drinking

GastronautisMEDITERRANEAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71468; mains €5-10; hlunch & dinner May-Sep)

Found on the narrow, whitewashed main street, this is one of a new breed of fashionable eateries. There’s a beachside-chic interior and a well-priced fusion menu. Try tuna tartar, zucchini cake or pork chops in barbecue sauce.

KarnagioTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Loutro; mains from €8; hdinner Jun-Sep)

This tiny taverna at Loutro, where the tables skirt the small harbour, has a magical setting. Karnagio means 'boatyard', and the taverna is owned by the same guy who fixes the boats. Expect good local food and a convivial atmosphere right on the water.

Capetan NikolasSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71690; Loutro; mains €5-18; hdinner May-Oct)

One of the best seafood places around, this cheerful restaurant overlooks the harbour at Loutro. Let the welcoming owners show you what’s been freshly cooked, or help you select a fish for grilling. The lobster salad is famous and the seafood pasta delicious. Locally caught fish, such as red mullet and sea bream, are priced by the kilo.

ScholioBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71837; h7pm-3am; W)

A cosy bar and crêperie, Scholio plays to the crowd with jazz, blues or rock. It’s at the western end of the main street above Loutro. The owners are accomplished photographers and often have exhibitions of their work on show.

8Information

The post office has an ATM; it's up the road to the left of Roussetos Hotel.

For more information, check out www.koufonisia.net and www.naxos.gr.

Prasinos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71438; h7am-11pm in summer) sells ferry tickets and tours on Hora’s main street.

Donousa Δονούσα

Pop 160

Donousa is the wonderfully out-on-a-limb island where you stop bothering about which day it is. In late July and August the island can be swamped by holidaymaking Greeks and sun-seeking northern Europeans, but out of season be prepared to linger – quietly.

Stavros is Donousa’s main settlement and port. It's a cluster of whitewashed buildings around a handsome church, overlooking the ferry quay and a small sandy bay. Little has changed here over the years. There’s an excellent beach, which also serves as a thoroughfare for foot traffic to a clutch of homes, rental rooms and a taverna on the far side of the sands.

For active types, Donousa offers up plenty to do, with good walking trails and attractive beaches.

Boat Services From Donousa

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Amorgos	40min-2¼hr	8	1-2 daily
Astypalea	2hr 20min	14	3 weekly
Iraklia	2hr	7	3 weekly
Koufonisia	1hr	5	3 weekly
Naxos	1hr 10min-3hr 40min	7	1 daily
Paros	2hr 25min	16	3 weekly
Piraeus	9hr 10min	35	3 weekly
Schinousa	1hr 50min	7	3 weekly

1Sights

Kendros, 1.25km southeast of Stavros, best reached by a stepped track, is a sandy and secluded beach with a seasonal taverna and free camping. Livadi, an hour’s hike further east, sees even fewer visitors. A steep 20-minute walk up from Livadi is the excellent taverna I Kori tou Mihali in the village of Mersini. Both Kendros and Livadi are popular with naturists.

At the end of the road on the northeast coast, the tiny village of Kalotaritissa boasts three gorgeous little beaches and a seasonal taverna. Get here by minibus or the boat Margissa in summer – or hike over the hill from Stavros in 90 minutes.

4Sleeping & Eating

Aposperitis RoomsPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 51586; www.aposperitis-rooms.com; d/tr/apt €45/60/65; hmid-May–Sep; aW)

Super-central to the beach and village (right on the town beach!), this guesthouse has a range of simple double rooms, triple studios (with kitchen) and family-sized apartments. Decor is dated, but balconies with sea views compensate.

oMakaresAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 79079; www.makares-donoussa.gr; r & apt €80-140; hMay-Oct; aW)

Loukas is an excellent host at Makares, a polished complex of self-catering studios and apartments at the far end of Stavros bay (across the beach from the port). It’s a short walk to the beach and village hub, the views are fabulous, the decor simple and elegant, and the feeling of seclusion (with all the required luxuries) is first-rate.

Captain George RestaurantGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 51867; mains from €7.50; hlunch & dinner)

A mainstay in Stavros as it's open year-round, this taverna above the port serves up Greek staples with everything from gyros to Greek salads to fish. The outlook is superb and, out of season, locals hang out here, eating and chatting. In high season you might be battling for a table. Nothing flashy, but it's a solid place to eat.

oI Kori tou MihaliTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22851 00006; mains €8-17; hlunch & dinner)

At this welcoming taverna in Mersini village, 6km from Stavros by road, Koula conjures up excellent Greek cuisine with a modern twist: wild goat from the island, pork in honey and yoghurt, and smoky eggplant dip. It’s worth the visit, for the food and the knockout views. Bathers at Livadi Beach hike 20 minutes up to eat here.

oSkantzoxirosCAFE-BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 51880; h9am-late Jun-Sep)

Up the stone steps at the port, this cafe-bar serves the younger crowd year-round. Out of season, it opens at 5pm, has Monday night movies and various locals' nights. In high season, it opens at 9am and is raging until the wee hours. Snacks, coffees, drinks and cocktails in a very convivial setting.

8Information

There’s an ATM next to a small shop on the harbour road (it’s sometimes hidden behind a blue shutter for protection from blown sand), but be sure to bring sufficient cash in high season.

There's good information online at www.donoussa.gr and www.naxos.gr.

Medical Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 51506) Just below the church.

Sigalas Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 51570) is the ticket agency for all ferries, with a main office in Stavros (behind the bakery) and a branch at the Iliovasilema restaurant complex on the far side of the town beach. The main office opens most evenings, plus 40 minutes before ferry arrivals.