Amorgos ΑΜΟΡΓΟΣ

Pop 1980

Dramatic Amorgos is shaped like a seahorse swimming its way east towards the Dodecanese. As you approach by sea, its long ridge of mountains appears to stretch ever skyward.

Amorgos is just 30km from tip to toe but reaches more than 800m at its highest point. The southeast coast is unrelentingly steep and boasts an extraordinary monastery built into the base of a soaring cliff. The opposite coast is just as spectacular, but softens a little at the narrow inlets where the main port and town of Katapola and the second port of Aegiali lie. The enchanting Hora (also known as Amorgos) lies amid a rocky landscape high above Katapola. All three towns have plenty of appeal as a base.

Amorgos is more about archaeology and activities than beach-going – there’s great walking, diving and a burgeoning rock-climbing scene.

8Getting There & Away

Connections from Naxos are good, with the Small Cyclades Line (www.ferries.gr/smallcycladeslines) operating each day (except Sunday), connecting Naxos with the two Amorgos ports by way of the Small Cyclades.

ABlue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.gr) has three useful routes: two run regularly from Piraeus via Paros, Naxos and the Small Cyclades, ending at either Aegiali or Katapola port. The third route sails weekly from Piraeus to Katapola and eastwards to Patmos, Leros, Kos and Rhodes.

Ferries dock at either Katapola or Aegiali (sometimes both) so it’s important to check both port schedules and to know which port you’re arriving at or departing from.

Purchase your tickets from Nautilos (%Aegiali 22850 73032, Katapola 22850 71201), a ticket agency with offices close to both harbours.

Boat Services From Amorgos

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Astypalea	1½hr	12	4 weekly
Donousa	2½hr	6	1 daily
Folegandros*	2hr 35min	69	5 weekly
Ios	5hr 20min	12	1 weekly
Iraklia	1¾-4½hr	8	1-2 daily
Kos	5hr	8	1 weekly
Koufonisia	40min-3½hr	6	1-2 daily
Koufonisia*	25min	14	1-2 daily
Leros	3hr 10min	2	1 weekly
Milos*	3¾hr	69	5 weekly
Mykonos*	2¼hr	55	3 weekly
Naxos	2-6hr	11	1-3 daily
Naxos*	1hr 20min	24	1-2 daily
Paros	3½-4½hr	19	7 weekly (note: not daily)
Paros*	2hr	29	1 daily
Patmos	2hr	21	1 weekly
Piraeus	8-10hr	35	7 weekly (note: not daily)
Piraeus*	5-6hr	62	1-3 daily
Rhodes	8hr	31	1 weekly
Schinousa	1½-4¼hr	7	1-2 daily
Santorini (Thira)	3¼hr	14	1 weekly
Santorini (Thira)*	1-4hr	50	5 weekly

* High-speed services

8Getting Around

The Amorgos Bus Company (%6936671033; http://amorgosbuscompany.com) has timetables and ticket prices online. Summer buses go regularly from Katapola to Hora (€1.80) and Moni Hozoviotissis and Agia Anna Beach (€1.80), and less often to Aegiali (€2.80, 30 minutes). There are also buses from Aegiali up to Langada (€1.80). Schedules are posted at the main stop in each village.

Without doubt, the easiest way to get around is by rental car. Cars and motorcycles are available for hire from Thomas Rental (%Aegiali 22850 73444, Katapola 22850 71777; www.thomas-rental.gr) or Evi's Cars (%22850 71066; www.eviscars.gr). Expect to pay from €40 per day for a small car in August. There are only two petrol stations: one 1.5km inland from Katapola, the other in Aegiali.

Katapola Κατάπολα

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Katapola sprawls round the curving, yacht-filled shoreline of a picturesque bay in the most verdant part of the island. It's a bustling port town and there is a lot of activity around the ferry quay.

The remains of the ancient city of Minoa lie above the port and can be reached by footpath or a steep, concrete road, although there is no information. Amorgos has also yielded many Cycladic finds: the largest figurine in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens was found in the vicinity of Katapola.

4Sleeping

oPension AmorgosPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71013; www.pension-amorgos.com; d €70; aW)

There’s a good deal of character in this traditional guesthouse, with bright and well-kept rooms right on the waterfront. It has the same owner as Emprostiada in Amorgos’ Hora, and a similarly high quality. Very reasonable, Katapola's tavernas are only a short stumble away. You won't miss the morning ferry staying here – it parks up right outside.

Villa KatapolianiPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71664; www.villakatapoliani.gr; d €80-85, q €120; aW)

Owner Stamatia has a high-quality collection of rooms, studios and apartments, handily located behind the waterfront and ferry quay. The balconies at Villa 1 overlook a garden filled with bougainvillea and the scattered ruins of the ancient temple of Apollo. Or scoot upstairs to the rooftop terrace for sea views. Apartments sleep up to four.

Minoa HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 74055; www.hotelminoa.gr; d/tr €90/100; aW)

Right on the waterfront, this family-run place couldn’t be more convenient for early-morning ferries. Service is friendly, and the sweet, neat rooms have tidy bathrooms and balconies overlooking a tree- and bird-filled garden. The lobby shares space with the family's Sweets by Pothiti cafe and patisserie.

5Eating

Honey & CinnamonBAKERY€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71485; Katapola; h8am-11pm)

Look for the bright red window shutters and follow your nose. This tiny patisserie, a block back from the waterfront, bakes up cakes, pastries and lots of local cookies. Try the ones made with the local liquor, psimeni raki, or simply grab a coffee or a gelato.

oCaptain DimosGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71020; mains €6-16; hlunch & dinner)

The captain, who is seriously into good food, whips up mouthwatering dishes to serve on his convivial harbourside patio. Crowding the tempting menu are dishes like octopus cooked in ouzo with lemongrass and ginger, and pork cooked with beer, apples and prunes. Creative pastas and pizza too. Sit back, enjoy and watch the world go by.

KaramelMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71516; dishes €4-12; hlunch & dinner)

Pass the beach and head to the far side of the harbour from the ferry quay to find some enticing dining options, including this colourful, French-run bistro. Sip wine at the waterfront tables and choose between daily dishes like chicken à la marocaine, carrots caramélisées and juicy octopus, which marry Greek and French flavours in a delicious fashion.

8Information

Boats dock right on the waterfront. The bus station is a few minutes’ walk inland along the water.

N Synodinos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71201; synodinos@nax.forthnet.gr) Sells ferry tickets and has a money exchange on the waterfront.

A bank (with ATM) is mid-waterfront.

Hora (Amorgos) Χώρα (Αμοργός)

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The old capital of Hora sparkles like a snowdrift across its rocky ridge. It’s capped by a 13th-century kastro and guarded by windmills that stand sentinel on the surrounding cliffs. There’s a veneer of sophistication, not least in the handful of fashionable bars and stores that enhance Hora’s appeal without eroding its timelessness. The main activity here is wandering, amply rewarded with beautiful village settings around each corner.

The bus stop is on a small square at the edge of town, where there’s also car parking. There’s an ATM next to a minimarket right at the entrance to Hora; the village also has a post office.

1Sights

Archaeology CollectionMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-1pm & 6-8.30pm Tue-Sun)F

Hora's Archaeology Museum has some interesting pieces excavated on the island, including remnants of the Minoan civilisation which existed on Amorgos more than 4000 years ago.

4Sleeping & Eating

Pension IliasPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71277; www.iliaspension.gr; d/apt €60/100; aW)

Tucked away amid a jumble of traditional houses not far from the bus stop is this friendly family-run place with pleasant, comfortable rooms. The apartments can accommodate four people.

oEmprostiadaGUESTHOUSE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 71814; http://emprostiada.gr; d €100, ste €130-150; hMar-Nov; aW)

There’s charm in abundance at this traditional guesthouse, where private, characterful suites are housed in an old merchant’s home. It’s a postcard scene in a peaceful setting at the back of the village. Choose from spacious doubles, maisonettes and suites. Doubles are a bargain €50 outside the July and August peak. Free port transfers from Katapola or Aegiali.

JazzminCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 74017; breakfast €6-13, snacks €3-6; h9am-late)

Down some stairs from the main pedestrian street, Jazzmin spreads through the cosy rooms of a traditional home. Perch in a window seat or lounge on the roof deck. Breakfast choices are good, as are smoothies, juices and herbal teas. The list of cocktails hints at the impressively stocked bar, and jazz and other smooth tunes provide a chilled-out soundtrack.

TriportoCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73085; breakfast €8, snacks €3-5; h9am-late)

Once the village bakery, this cafe has a strong traditional feel, plumped up with some colourful, hip decor. Come for breakfast to create an omelette from ingredients like olive sauce and hot paprika cream, or snack on salads, sandwiches and sweets. The friendly owner is a virtual encyclopaedia of local knowledge.

Kath OdonGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 74148; mains €5-10; hlunch & dinner)

The setting is idyllic: tables under trees in a lovely little plateia at the top end of the main street, nestled between whitewashed churches. The menu of this unpretentious bistro presents tasty Amorgon produce, including goat, sausage, cheese, and some excellent zucchini balls.

Aegiali Αιγιάλη

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Aegiali is Amorgos’ second port and sees fewer yachts and a bit more of the holidaymaker scene. It's a vibrant village with plenty going on. A sweep of sand lines the inner edge of the bay on which the village stands.

2Activities & Tours

Amorgos Diving CenterDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6932249538, 22850 73611; www.amorgos-diving.com)

Enthusiastic and friendly instruction can be had at this well-run centre right on the beach. Dives (with equipment) start at €50, with night dives, wreck dives and PADI courses available. It also offers a Bubblemaker class for kids, and snorkelling tours (€20).

Special Interest HolidaysWALKING

(www.walkingingreece.com)

Based at Langada, this outfit organises walking holidays (guided or self-guided) with experienced, knowledgeable hosts: Paul and Henrietta Delahunt-Rimmer, an English couple who have written the excellent resource Amorgos: A Visitor’s and Walker’s Guide. See the website for full details.

4Sleeping

Apollon StudiosGUESTHOUSE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73297; www.apollon-amorgos.com; studio d/q €55/85; aW)

With a nautically themed lobby, this guesthouse in the heart of the village has studios with well-equipped kitchens and harbour-view balconies. Rooms aren’t fussy, but they’re comfortable and reasonably priced. This place draws lots of repeat guests and families. Lots of places to eat right out the front door.

Aegiali CampingCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73500; www.aegialicamping.gr; campsite per adult/child/tent €5.50/2/4; hMay–mid-Oct; pW)

Basic facilities a block back from the beach, with tents under the vines. There are showers, toilets and free wi-fi. Rent a tent for €6. On-site taverna and bar, too.

YperiaHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73084; www.yperia.com; d €105-115, f €168, all incl breakfast; hApr-Oct; aWs)

Yperia’s modern rooms have warm, artsy touches, handmade wood and iron furnishings, big bathrooms and excellent sea views. The pool overlooks the ocean, and the hotel is just a block from the beach. Staff are friendly and accommodating.

Aegialis Hotel & SpaHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73393; www.amorgos-aegialis.com; d from €195; aWs)

High on a hill and with magical views over Aegiali Bay and village, this is one of the island’s smartest options. Rooms are good, but it’s the facilities that make this place shine: pool and pool bar, a bliss-out day spa and indoor pool, restaurants – oh, and did we mention the view? Decent off-peak rates; book online.

5Eating

oAmorgisCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73606; meals €3-10; h9am-late; W)

On the steps leading up from the ferry quay, Amorgis is open from morning until late. Sunset drinks here are a fine idea. Family-friendly, it's as pretty as a picture, full of pastel colours and hanging pot plants. The menu offers enticements like fresh juices, cool cocktails, baguettes, salads and tortillas. A lovely place to relax and stare out to sea.

FalafelINTERNATIONAL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6936808038; dishes €4-12)

Up an alley from the waterfront, Falafel is a fresh-faced, laid-back eating and drinking venue with a menu that’s a grab-bag of world cuisines (spring rolls, falafel, summer salads, curries). It’s an easy place to while away some time away from the main street.

To LimaniTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73269; http://tolimani.weebly.com; dishes €5-15; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

This popular restaurant carries its traditional atmosphere comfortably, up from the main street. Using home-grown produce, the cooks whip up hefty portions of great local dishes: try the fish soup, patatao (lamb with potatoes in tomato sauce), or anything with local cheese. And save room for some homemade orange pie.

8Information

Aegialis Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73393; http://amorgos-aegialis.com/services), based at Aegialis Hotel & Spa, can help arrange local tours and experiences (hiking, cultural excursions, cooking classes etc).

DON'T MISS

MONI HOZOVIOTISSIS

Moni HozoviotissisMONASTERY

(Μονή της Χοζοβιώτισσας GOOGLE MAP ; donations appreciated; h8am-1pm & 5-7pm)

This iconic 11th-century monastery is a dazzling white structure seemingly embedded into the cliff-face high above the sea on the precipitous east coast below Hora. It's also high above the car park, with 350 steps to get to it. With any luck, a custodian will be there to explain the significance of the monastery and its icons. The dress code is modest and strict. No shorts, no mini-skirts, no bare shoulders and no women in trousers. No exceptions.

Around Amorgos

1Sights

Agia Anna BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Agia Anna Beach is the nearest beach to Hora, but it's tiny and rocky; the car park is bigger. It's popular for its starring role in the French film Le Grand Bleu, and is known for its dramatic location and photogenic whitewashed chapel. There's a small cantina next to the car park on the clifftop, selling food and drinks.

2Activities

Amorgos is a popular walking destination, and the island has a selection of well-marked numbered walking tracks. Check these routes out online at www.amorgos.gr. Cartography company Terrain (http://terrainmaps.gr) produces an excellent hiking map for Amorgos.

The lovely villages of Langada and Tholaria nestle amid the craggy slopes above Aegiali, each about 3km from the town. The two are linked to each other, and to Aegiali, by a signposted 9km circular path that takes 2½ to three hours to walk.

4Sleeping & Eating

Pagali HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22850 73310; www.pagalihotel-amorgos.com; Langada; d €73-110; aW)

Pagali Hotel is tucked away in Langada village, with superb views. Rooms and studios are comfortable, and the year-round hotel offers alternative agritourism activities like grape or olive harvesting and winemaking, and activities including rock climbing, hiking, yoga and art workshops. The hotel sits in a cute family-run pocket of Langada, next to the excellent Nikos Taverna and Vassalos Bakery.

Ios ΙΟΣ

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Ios’ image has long been linked to holiday sun, sea and sex, with a reputation for nonstop booze-fuelled partying. It’s partly true: there’s no denying that from June to August, the island is the much-loved stomping ground of youth and hedonism. But it’s so much more – if you want it to be – and the partying doesn’t infiltrate every village or beach.

Spend your days exploring the winding footpaths of the traditional hilltop old town or ensconced on a sandy beach. Discover the isolated interior or sandy beaches such as Manganari in the south, and then return to town in time for the party. Or visit in the shoulder season for a quieter pace, when Ios draws families and more mature travellers. It’s pretty easy to escape the crowds: simply rent a car and venture into the countryside of goat farms, honey boxes and dramatic views.

8Getting There & Away

Ios lies conveniently on the Mykonos to Santorini ferry axis and has regular connections with Piraeus. Purchase tickets at Acteon Travel in Ormos, or its smaller branch in Hora.

Boat Services From Ios

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Amorgos	3hr	12	1 weekly
Anafi	2hr 25min	11	2 weekly
Folegandros	1hr 20min	10	4 weekly
Folegandros*	25min	44	2 weekly
Iraklio*	2hr 40min	64	2 daily
Kimolos	2hr 50min	16	3 weekly
Milos	3-4hr	16	2 weekly
Milos*	1¾hr	49	1 daily
Mykonos	4hr	24	1 daily
Mykonos*	1hr 50min-3hr 50min	48	4 daily
Naxos	1-1¾hr	14	1-3 daily
Naxos*	45min	25	1-2 daily
Paros	2hr 20min	16	1-3 daily
Paros*	1-1½hr	28	3 daily
Piraeus	7hr	36	6 weekly
Piraeus*	3hr 40min-5hr	59	2 daily
Rafina	7½hr	35	1 daily
Rafina*	5-6hr	62	2 daily
Santorini (Thira)	1-1½hr	12	6 weekly
Santorini (Thira)*	40-50min	29	4-7 daily
Serifos	4hr 50min	19	1 weekly
Sifnos	4-5½hr	18	3 weekly
Sifnos*	3hr	54	1 daily
Sikinos	25min	5	4 weekly
Syros	5hr 10min	18	1 weekly
Tinos*	3-4½hr	38	2 daily

* High-speed services

8Getting Around

In summer crowded buses (%22860 92015; www.ktel-ios.gr) run between Ormos, Hora and Mylopotas Beach (all fares €1.80) about every 20 minutes. Schedules are posted at the main village bus stops and online. In summer, additional buses run frequently to Koubara, and less frequently to beaches at Agia Theodoti, Psathi and Manganari. For taxis call Ios Taxi Service (%6977760570); it’s €5 from the port to Hora, €5 from Hora to Mylopotas.

Summertime caïques travel from Ormos to Manganari via Mylopotas and cost about €12 per person for a return trip.

Ormos, Hora and Mylopotas Beach all have car, motorcycle and four-wheeler hire. You can book through Acteon Travel.

Hora, Ormos & Mylopotas Χώρα, Ορμος & Μυλοπότας

Ios’ three main centres sit nearly on top of one another on the west coast. The port, Ormos, is lined with tavernas and cafes and stretches out into sandy Gialos Beach, backed by beach bars. Just 2km uphill (or 1.2km up a stone staircase) sits the capital of Hora, a stunning traditional village and nightlife hub. From here, the road winds south to the brown-sugar sand of Mylopotas Beach, with upscale and backpacker-style resorts. You’ll find places to eat, sleep, drink and dance in all three settlements. Grocery stores are also found in each.

Hora’s central square is Plateia Valeta, buried deep in the old town. The road straight ahead from Hora’s bus stop leads 3km to Mylopotas Beach.

1Sights & Activities

Hora is a charming Cycladic village with a labyrinth of narrow lanes and cubist houses. Visit during the day and wander from the main streets into the quiet residential quarters to get a glimpse of village life that carries on behind the tourist hype scene.

SkarkosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(The Snail; GOOGLE MAP ; €4; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun May-Sep)

Crowning a low hill just north of Hora, this Early to Late Bronze Age settlement has restored walled terraces and the low ruins of several Cycladic-style buildings to explore. A small visitor centre and interpretation boards in Greek and English help out. If driving, take the signed turn-off between Ormos and Hora. To walk, follow the traditional stone footpath from the back of Hora, passing goats and farmhouses. The pleasant walk takes around 15 minutes.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91246; Hora; €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Finds from Skarkos are displayed at this thorough, if slightly dry, museum in the town hall next to the bus stop in Hora. There are also exhibits from island excavations in general.

Mylopotas Watersports & New DiveWATER SPORTS, DIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92340; http://mylopotas-watersports.gr; Mylopotas; hMay–mid-Oct)

A thousand ways to fill your day: try a discover scuba-diving session (€55) or more intensive PADI courses from €270. There are also wreck dives and night dives. Join a three-hour boat snorkelling trip for €35, or rent a long list of gear: windsurfing kit, kayaks, sailboats and more. Take a tube ride or do some waterskiing. Sea-taxi services too.

Meltemi Watersports & Dive CentreWATER SPORTS, DIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6980386990; www.meltemiwatersports.com; Mylopotas)

Based at the Far Out Beach Club, with a ready flow of keen customers, Meltemi has a smorgasbord of ways to get wet: try out a diving sampler (€55) or full PADI courses, then check out wreck, cave and night dives. Learn to windsurf, waterski and wakeboard, hire a stand-up paddleboard, join a canoe safari or take a boat excursion.

Yialos WatersportsWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92463, 6974290990; www.yialoswatersports.com; Gialos Beach)

Mylopotas isn’t the only beach full of activity. At Gialos Beach, this company can get you afloat with windsurfing (lessons and gear), stand-up paddleboarding, waterskiing, wakeboarding, banana rides, canoes, snorkelling gear – you name it. There are mountain bikes for the landlubbers, too, or simply sunbeds if you’re worn out from all the activities.

4Sleeping

Ormos is considerably quieter than Hora or Mylopotas. If you're here to party, Hora is the best place to stay. Most accommodation offers free port transfers. Book early for July and August. Outside those months, prices fall by 50% or more.

Ormos

Yialos Ios HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91421; www.yialosioshotel.gr; Ormos; s/d €80/100, studio €130-170, all incl breakfast; hMay-Sep; aWs)

Just a block back from the port, this newly restored, 200-year-old stone building feels like the home you wish you had. Crisp, characterful rooms, wood-beamed ceilings, traditional beds and a flower-filled poolside give it the edge. The owners are attentive, and the breakfast room is just like your Greek grandma’s kitchen. Off-peak rates are excellent (doubles around €50).

Avra PensionPENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91985; www.avrapension.gr; Ormos; r €65; hApr–mid-Oct; aW)

Down a lane behind the yacht marina at the port, Katerina runs this delightful guesthouse with warmth and efficiency, and at bargain prices (outside the short summer peak, rooms fall to €30). Colourful potted plants, a restful terrace, homey common areas and fresh, appealing rooms add up to super value.

Pension IrenePENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91023; www.iosirene.gr; r from €80; hJun-Oct; aWs)

Lots of options here, just back from the yacht marina in Ormos, with double rooms right through to a two-bedroom apartment. Quiet location with a sparkling swimming pool; ask for the top view to get a massive shared terrace. Reception is like a small museum, with some great old photos of Ios.

Hora

oFrancesco’sHOSTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91223; www.francescos.net; Hora; dm/d/tr/q €20/70/105/140; hApr–mid-Oct; aiWs)

Former backpackers are now sending their own 18-year-olds to Francesco’s, which is still going strong. Rooms are spotless, views are dreamy and it’s within stumbling distance of Hora’s nightlife. There’s a global feel and a roll-call of happy-traveller features: terrace bar, pool and cheap breakfast menu. Head towards the main square and turn left down Odos Scholarhiou for 200m. Or ask anyone.

PavezzoGUESTHOUSE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6977046091; www.iospavezzo.com; Hora; d €70-100; pW)

This place is just steps from Hora but away from the night-time noise, on a quiet side road to Kolitsani Beach. The seven rooms are a steal; clean and comfortable, they feature country-style decor and private, sea-view patios. Suites have well-stocked kitchens, and the hosts are welcoming and attentive.

Avanti HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91165; www.avanti-hotelios.com; Hora; d incl breakfast €130-150; hmid-Apr–mid-Oct; aiWs)

These fresh, sparkling rooms are a short stroll out of Hora, but far enough away to offer a little peace. Private balconies and a beautiful pool and outdoor area are the icing on the cake. Rates halve outside the summer peak.

oLiostasiBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92140; www.liostasi.gr; Hora; d/ste incl breakfast from €150/280; hMay-Sep; aiWs)

Step into the lobby of this place and you may never want to leave. A contemporary Greek feel blends chic and comfy in just the right proportions. The on-site spa, restaurant and pool area are top quality, and the rooms are crisp with splashes of colour and gorgeous sea views. Service is impeccable. It's halfway between Ormos and Hora.

Mylopotas

Far Out Beach Club & Beach ResortHOSTEL, CAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91468; www.faroutclub.com; Mylopotas; campsite per person €10, dm €15, d/q €90/180; piWs)

Nearly on top of the beach is this backpacker party haven with poolside bars, restaurants and everything from laundry to tattooing, a sushi bar, yoga and gym. There’s an enormous array of sleeping options, from tents to dorm beds, including en-suite rooms. Far Out even has a hotel and luxury villas nearby.

5Eating

Ormos

La RandaITALIAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92448; www.facebook.com/larandaios; Ormos; mains €7-14; h9am-1am; W)

Right on the port where the ferries dock, this place is fabulous for Italian cuisine. The owner has shipped an authentic oven over from Italy and makes drool-worthy pizzas and pasta dishes in homemade tomato sauce.

AkrogialiTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91096; Ormos; mains from €8; hlunch & dinner)

In the complex across the road from the ferry quay, Akrogiali is a superb, well-priced seafood taverna. The locals eat here, which gives it a tick from the start. Try the salatouri (stingray salad) or the octopus in red wine sauce.

Hora

oKatogiMEZEDHES€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6983440900; www.facebook.com/katogios; Hora; dishes €4-11; hdinner)

Full of life, entering Katogi feels like you've walked into a party in someone’s living room, where bright, homey decor flows into a gorgeous garden and the music selection rocks. More importantly, the food is divine. Try haloumi bites with cherry tomatoes, pork bites in whisky sauce or pasta purses filled with cheese and pear.

Thai SmileTHAI€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91925; Hora; mains €7-12; hdinner)

Ignore the international dishes and go for the authentic Thai flavours, created by the Thai owner-chef. A backstreet spot with plenty of atmosphere, serving plates overflowing with phad thai noodles, Massaman curry and tom yum soup.

The NestGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91778; www.facebook.com/thenestios; Hora; mains €6-18; hlunch & dinner)

The Nest feels authentic, right down to the rembetika music and the tables of older men deep in discussion over rounds of raki. Local garlic sausage, chicken souvlaki, stuffed eggplant and lamb kleftiko are served with bowls of tzatziki, olives and fresh bread. Wine is served by the jug, and the vegies come from the owner’s garden.

Lord ByronMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92125; www.lordbyronios.gr; dishes €7-14; hdinner)

An explosion of colour and quirky decor near the square in Hora, this laid-back, lively restaurant is as pleasing to the stomach as it is to the eye. Enjoy huge portions of creative salads and mains, with dishes like cheese pies with orange and honey mustard dip, or barbecued crab. Service gets five stars.

Mylopotas

Cantina del MarCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91016; http://cantinadelmar.gr; Mylopotas; sandwiches & salads €2-8; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

Come here, at the entrance to Mylopotas, to chill out next to the beach over bumper brunches, sandwiches and wraps. Choose from a long, healthy-sounding list of juices and smoothies (can the hangover juice of lemon, orange and carrot really do the trick?) or wine and cocktails for when you’re feeling well again. The music selection soothes.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Nightlife at the heart of Hora is full-on and radiates from the tiny main square, where it gets so crowded by midnight that you won’t be able to fall down, even if you need to.

There's everything from jazz bars to frantic backpacker bars that dole out cheap shooters, though venues open and close regularly.

oBlue Note ClubCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92271; www.facebook.com/bluenoteofficial; h11.15pm-late May-Oct)

This Hora favourite has been thumping for decades and is still the hottest spot on the island. Catering to a young crowd, if you were under the impression Ios was a party island before you came, Blue Note will reinforce those thoughts. Head straight through the square and turn left at Katogi.

Free Beach BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 28357; http://freebeachbar.gr; h10am-1am May-Sep)

Offering dozens of colourful, super-appealing ways to lounge and recline, this beach bar sits in the middle of Mylopotas Beach and sends a siren call via its beach cabanas and pool, surrounded by hanging beds and cushioned pods. Aside from all-day drinks, snacks are on offer (club sandwich, pizza). Chill out or dig the DJ-fired action.

Fun PubPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92022; www.facebook.com/funpubios; h11am-late Apr-Oct)

If you can’t find your tribe on Hora’s main square, they might be here – at the Irish-owned Fun Pub, on the main road through the town. It does what it says on the label, with fun in various guises: music, dancing, food, live sports, pool tables and plenty of mingling. Pub grub and a Sunday roast.

Foiniki Art CafeBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92247; Hora; 9am-late)

It’s easy to settle into this funky little bar, with its friendly owners, rich colours, stacks of magazines and hand-crafted beer from around Greece. Tucked behind Lord Byron, it’s a great spot for a morning coffee or pre-dinner tipple.

Ios ClubCOCKTAIL BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6985720049; www.iosclub.gr; h7pm-3am Apr-Oct)

A deliciously sophisticated cocktail bar that’s perfect for sunset cocktails and sweeping views on the chic terrace. It’s along the pathway by Sweet Irish Dream, on the right as you head into Hora from Ormos.

3Entertainment

oCine LiostasiCINEMA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 92140; www.liostasi.gr/cine-liostasi)F

Outside at Liostasi Hotel & Suites, halfway between Ormos and Hora, this lovely setting hosts nightly outdoor cinema under the stars. The aim is to become the top outdoor cinema in Greece and, indeed, this spot is hard to beat. Watch classic and modern movies in loungers while sipping signature cocktails with a gorgeous view as background to the screen.

8Information

There’s an ATM right by the kiosks at the ferry quay in Ormos. In Hora, the National Bank of Greece, behind the church, has an ATM.

In Hora there is a seasonal information kiosk at the bus stop, across the road from the big cathedral. Online, check out http://ios.gr for more info.

Acteon Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 91343; www.acteon.gr; h8am-10pm) Purchase ferry tickets at Acteon Travel in Ormos, or its smaller branch in Hora.

Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22863 60000) On the way to Gialos, 250m northwest of the quay.

Dr Yannis Kalathas (%6932420200, 22860 91137; h24hr) Your best contact in case of medical emergency.

Around Ios

Head to Cape Gero Angeli, at the northernmost tip of the island and 12km from Hora, to the believed site of Homer’s Grave. There’s nothing much to see here but the panoramic sea views are fabulous.

En route to Psathi is Paleokastro, the remains of a Byzantine castle perched atop a seaside cliff. Follow the stone pathway from the roadside; it’ll likely just be you and the goats here.

Ios is well known for its beaches. Vying with Mylopotas for first place is Manganari, a long swath of fine white sand on the south coast, reached by bus or by caïque in summer. Agia Theodoti has the bluest of blue water and is favoured by Greek families in summer. Nearby Psathi is quieter.

Santorini (Thira) ΣΑΝΤΟΡΙΝΗ (ΘΗΡΑ)

Pop 15,550

With multicoloured cliffs soaring above a sea-drowned caldera, Santorini looks like a giant slab of layered cake. The main island of Thira will take your breath away with its snow-drift of white Cycladic houses lining the cliff tops and, in places, spilling like icy cornices down the terraced rock. When the sun sets, the reflection on the buildings and the glow of the orange and red in the cliffs can be truly spectacular.

Santorini is no secret and draws crowds for much of the year, yet it wears its tourism crown well. The island’s intrigue reaches deep into the past, with the fascinating Minoan site of Akrotiri and the gorgeous traditional hilltop village of Oia. It also glides effortlessly into the future with accomplished artists, excellent wineries, a unique microbrewery and some of the Cyclades' finest accommodation and dining experiences. The multicoloured beaches are simply the icing on the cake.

History

Minor eruptions have been the norm in Greece’s earthquake-prone history, but Santorini has a definite history of overachieving – eruptions here were genuinely earth-shattering, and so wrenching they changed the shape of the island several times.

Dorians, Venetians and Turks occupied Santorini, but its most influential early inhabitants were Minoans. They came from Crete some time between 2000 BC and 1600 BC, and the settlement at Akrotiri dates from the peak years of their great civilisation.

The island was circular then and was called Strongili (Round One). Thousands of years ago, a colossal volcanic eruption caused the centre of Strongili to sink, leaving a caldera with towering cliffs along the east side – a truly dramatic sight. The latest theory, based on carbon dating of olive-oil samples from Akrotiri, places the event 10 years either side of 1613 BC.

Santorini was recolonised during the 3rd century BC, but for the next 2000 years sporadic volcanic activity created further physical changes that included the formation of the volcanic islands of Palia Kameni and Nea Kameni at the centre of the caldera.

As recently as 1956, a major earthquake devastated Oia and Fira, yet by the 1970s the islanders had embraced tourism as tourists embraced the island, and today Santorini is a destination of truly spectacular global appeal, drawing honeymooners, backpackers, the jet set, cruise-boat passengers, Chinese bridal parties (in part due to the success of Beijing Love Story, filmed partly on Santorini) and everyone else too.

For better or worse, Santorini and Mykonos have become the poster-children for the Greek islands. As well as bigger crowds, that also means considerably higher prices.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Santorini Airport (JTR; GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 28400; www.santoriniairport.com) has flights year-round to/from Athens (from €65, 45 minutes) with Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) and Aegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com). Seasonal European connections are plentiful, including, among others, easyJet from London, Rome, Geneva and Milan.

Give yourself plenty of time when flying back out as tourism infrastructure hasn't kept up with the island's growing popularity and the airport terminal can be mayhem.

Boat

There are plenty of ferries each day to and from Piraeus and many Cyclades islands.

Thira’s main port, Athinios, stands on a cramped shelf of land at the base of sphinx-like cliffs and is a scene of marvellous chaos that always seems to work itself out when ferries arrive. Buses (and taxis) meet all ferries and then cart passengers up the towering cliffs through an ever-rising series of S-bends to Fira. Accommodation providers can usually arrange transfers (to Fira per person is around €10).

Boat Services From Santorini (Thira)

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Amorgos*	1-4¼hr	49	6 weekly
Anafi	1hr 10min-1hr 40min	7	4 weekly
Folegandros	3hr	12	3 weekly
Folegandros*	45-80min	44	1-2 daily
Halki	12½-15½hr	26	2 weekly
Ios	1-2hr	12	1 daily
Ios*	35-45min	29	4-6 daily
Iraklio*	1¾hr	60	2 daily
Karpathos	8½-11½hr	25	2 weekly
Kasos	6¾-9½hr	25	2 weekly
Kimolos	4½hr	16	2 weekly
Kos	4½hr	34	4 weekly
Koufonisia*	1½-3½hr	49	6 weekly
Milos	3½hr	17	2 weekly
Milos*	2hr	52	2 daily
Mykonos*	2-3hr	60	5-6 daily
Naxos	2hr	19	1-2 daily
Naxos*	1½hr	38	4-5 daily
Paros	3-3½hr	20	1-2 daily
Paros*	2-2¼hr	46	3 daily
Piraeus	5½-12hr	36	2-3 daily
Piraeus*	4½-6hr	59	3-4 daily
Rafina*	5¾hr	64	2 daily
Rethymno (Crete)*	2hr 20min	65	2 weekly
Rhodes	8-17¾hr	27	5 weekly
Serifos	6½hr	19	1 weekly
Sifnos	5-7¼hr	18	3 weekly
Sifnos*	3-4hr	54	1-2 daily
Sikinos	2hr	9	3 weekly
Sitia (Crete)	6hr	26	1 weekly
Tinos*	3½-4hr	40	2 daily

* High-speed services

Note: differences in durations are on account of vessel type and/or route.

8Getting Around

To/From The Airport

There are frequent bus connections between Fira’s bus station and the airport, located 5km east of Fira (€1.80, 20 minutes, 7am to 9pm). Most accommodation providers will arrange paid transfers.

Bus

KTEL Santorini Buses (%22860 25404; http://ktel-santorini.gr) has a good website with schedules and prices. Tickets are purchased on the bus.

In summer buses leave Fira regularly for Oia, with more services pre-sunset (€1.80). There are also numerous daily departures for Akrotiri (€1.80), Kamari (€1.80), Perissa and Perivolos Beach (€2.40), and a few to Monolithos (€1.80).

Buses leave Fira for the port of Athinios (€2.30, 30 minutes) a half-dozen times per day, but it’s wise to check times in advance. Buses for Fira meet all ferries, even late at night.

Car & Motorcycle

A car is the best way to explore the island during high season, when buses are intolerably overcrowded and you’ll be lucky to get on one at all. Be very patient and cautious when driving – the narrow roads and heavy traffic, especially in and around Fira, can be a nightmare.

There are representatives of all the major international car-hire outfits, plus dozens of local operators in all tourist areas. A good local hire outfit is Damigos Rent a Car (%22860 22048; www.santorini-carhire.com). You’ll pay from around €50 per day for a car and €25/30 for a scooter/four-wheeler in high season, but it pays to shop around. Note: scooter hire requires you to have a motorbike licence, while four-wheelers require just a car licence. Check this website for details: www.santorini.com/rentals/motorbikes.

Taxi

Fira’s taxi stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23951, 22860 22555) is on Dekigala just around the corner from the bus station. A taxi from the port of Athinios to Fira costs €10 to €15, and a trip from Fira to Oia about €15. Expect to add €2 if the taxi is booked ahead or if you have luggage. A taxi to Kamari is about €15, to Perissa €18 and to Ancient Thira about €25 one-way.

Santorini Transport (%6984637383; www.santorinitransport.com) is a good option for arranging fixed-price transfers to/from the airport or Athinios port.

Fira Φήρα

Pop 2300

Santorini’s main town of Fira is a vibrant, bustling place, its caldera edge layered with hotels, cave apartments, infinity pools and swish restaurants, all backed by a warren of narrow streets full of shops and even more bars and restaurants. A multitude of fellow admirers cannot diminish the impact of Fira’s stupendous landscape; this is one of the few places in the world that actually looks better than the postcards! Views over the multicoloured cliffs are breathtaking, and at night the caldera edge is a frozen cascade of lights.

While Fira's population is only a tad over 2000, it sprawls north and merges into two more villages: Firostefani (about a 15-minute walk from Fira) and Imerovigli (the highest point of the caldera edge, about a half-hour walk from Fira). A path runs through these villages and is lined with glorious hotels, restaurants and endless photo opportunities.

Fira

1Top Sights

1Museum of Prehistoric TheraC5

1Sights

2Archaeological MuseumB1

3Megaro Gyzi Cultural CentreB1

4SantozeumB2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Santorini Cable CarA1

4Sleeping

6Aroma SuitesB5

7Hotel KetiA5

8Kavalari HotelB3

9Pelican HotelC3

10Pension PetrosD3

11Villa RoussaC4

12Villa SoulaD3

5Eating

131500 BCA5

14Assyrtico Wine RestaurantB4

15Cacio e PepeB2

16FanariA2

17KoukoumavlosB4

18To OuzeriB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

19Crystal Cocktail BarB3

20Kira ThiraB3

21Koo ClubB2

22MoMix Bar SantoriniB3

23Tango Champagne & Cocktail BarA3

24Two Brothers BarB3

3Entertainment

25Casablanca Soul BarB3

26The White Door TheatroB2

7Shopping

27AK Art GalleryB4

28Greco Gold SantoriniB4

29Mati Art GalleryB4

30Orion Art GalleryB1

31the White, SantoriniB3

32Theta 8B3

1Sights

oMuseum of Prehistoric TheraMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22217; www.santorini.com/museums; Mitropoleos; adult/child €3/free; h8.30am-3pm Wed-Mon)

Opposite the bus station, this well-presented museum houses extraordinary finds excavated from Akrotiri and is all the more impressive when you realise just how old they are. Most remarkable is the glowing gold ibex figurine, dating from the 17th century BC and in mint condition. Also look for fossilised olive tree leaves from within the caldera, which date back to 60,000 BC.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22217; M Nomikou; adult/child €3/free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Near the cable-car station, this museum houses impressive finds from Akrotiri and Ancient Thira, such as unbelievably detailed clay statuettes from the latter site, including a donkey, pig, ram and birds. Check out the chariot-racing images on some of the pottery. The content is strong, though the museum itself is in need of a little TLC.

SantozeumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 21722; www.santozeum.com; Ypapantis; adult/child €5/3; h10am-6pm May-Oct)

Around the corner from the Archaeological Museum, this modern cultural centre is home to the ‘Wall Paintings of Thera’ exhibition, a collection of life-size reproductions of the finest Akrotiri murals. The short video on the work of conservators is fascinating. There’s no labelling, so be sure to ask for the information sheet for context.

Megaro Gyzi Cultural CentreMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23077; www.megarogyzi.gr; Erythrou Stavrou; adult/child €3/free; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun May-Oct)

Come to this quiet escape in the town’s north to take in fascinating before-and-after photographs of the 1956 earthquake in Fira, along with a collection of maps, engravings, paintings and 15th-century manuscripts.

2Activities

Walks in and around Fira are spectacular, particularly heading north to Firostefani and Imerovigli along the caldera-edge pathway. This is about a 30-minute walk, one-way. If you want to keep walking, you can eventually reach Oia, but be aware that this is no small undertaking, and the trail beyond Imerovigli can be rough. It’s about 9km in all, and a good three to four hours’ walk one-way. It’s best not to undertake it in the heat of the day.

Other options include walking down to (or up from) the small port known as Fira Skala, from where volcanic island cruises leave (and where cruise-ship passengers come ashore). It’s around 600 steps each way. You can make a more leisurely, and aromatic, upward trip by donkey (€5) – although animal-rights groups strongly urge travellers not to, due to the cruelty involved. You can also go by the Santorini Cable Car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://scc.gr/cablecar.htm; one-way €6; h7am-10pm May-Sep; reduced hr Oct-Apr) that hums quickly and smoothly (every 20 minutes 6.30am to 11pm June to August) between Fira and Fira Skala. Less frequent services operate outside the peak season; there is an additional charge to take luggage (€2.50).

From Imerovigli, a sign at Mezzo restaurant leads west to Skaros, a rocky headland with great views and a perfectly situated church. From Imerovigli it’s about 20 minutes one-way.

TTours

Any tour your heart desires can be organised on Santorini – there are dozens of agencies primed and ready to help with winery visits, archaeology tours, traditional villages, sunset-watching and other activities.

Another option is a cruise, and the most popular itinerary takes in the caldera’s volcanic islands of Nea Kameni and Palia Kameni, including a stop at the former’s crater and the latter’s hot springs. Some tours will also call at Thirasia, and/or a port below Oia. Sunset-watching from a boat, drink in hand, is also in demand.

Departures are from Fira Skala, below Fira. Book with one of the agencies around town. Vessels vary, from replica schooners to sleek catamarans and yachts – therefore prices vary wildly.

The starting rate for a basic full-day excursion is around €30. Before booking, ask about the itinerary, inclusions (eg lunch or drinks) and the number of fellow passengers.

4Sleeping

Pension PetrosPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22573; www.hotelpetros-santorini.gr; r from €90; aWs)

Three hundred metres east of the square in Fira, Petros offers decent rooms at good rates, but no caldera views. This is a friendly, family-run operation and makes an affordable option, especially outside high season, when rates are less than half. Cute pool too!

Santorini CampingHOSTEL, CAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22944; www.santorinicamping.gr; Fira; dm/d €25/70, campsite per person €12.50; hMar-Nov; paiWs)

On the eastern outskirts of town, this hostel and campground has some shade and decent facilities. You get what you pay for with the rooms, which are clean but quite basic. There’s a self-service restaurant, minimarket, bar and pool.

Villa RoussaHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23220; www.villaroussa.gr; Dekigala; s/d/tr from €80/100/120; paWs)

This place is all about location. Minutes from the caldera (without the prices to match) and seconds from the bus station (but thankfully out of earshot), it has fresh, immaculate rooms and helpful staff.

Hotel SofiaHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22802; www.sofiahotelsantorini.com; Firostefani; d €110; hMay-Oct; aWs)

Comfortable, with a touch of character, these half-dozen petite rooms at the heart of Firostefani are a great alternative to the bustle of Fira. There’s no caldera view, but it’s literally outside your door. The rates are a near-steal (book early) and the small, lovely pool and verandahs are a bonus. Fira’s centre is about 800m south.

oAroma SuitesBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 24112; www.aromasuites.com; Agiou Mina; d from €240; aiW)

Overlooking the caldera at the quieter southern end of Fira, and more accessible than similar places, this boutique hotel has charming service and six plush, beautiful suites. Built into the side of the caldera, the traditional interiors are made all the more lovely with monochrome decor, local art, books and stereos. Balconies offer a feeling of complete seclusion.

Kavalari HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22455; www.kavalarihotel-santorini.com; r from €180; naW)

One of Fira's top-value hotels, Kavalari is at the heart of the action and offers standard rooms and cave apartments. The central location, views and spotless rooms make this an affordable option when surrounding hotel rates are taken into consideration. An excellent breakfast is included.

Pelican HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23113; www.pelicanhotel.gr; Danezi; s/d/tr €90/110/130; aW)

There’s no caldera view, but you’re just metres from the heart of the action in this long-standing hotel with a homey feel. Two of its best attributes are the restaurant next door and the delightful garden setting.

Hotel KetiHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22324; www.hotelketi.gr; Agiou Mina, Fira; d from €170; aW)

Hotel Keti is one of the smaller ‘sunset view’ hotels in a peaceful caldera niche. Its attractive traditional rooms are carved into the cliffs, half of which have Jacuzzis. Two-night minimum in high season.

Villa SoulaHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23473; www.santorini-villasoula.gr; Fira; r from €100; aWs)

Cheerful and spotless, this hotel is a great deal. Rooms aren’t large but are freshly renovated with small, breezy balconies. Colourful public areas and a small, well-maintained undercover pool give you room to spread out a little. It’s a short walk from the town centre.

oMill HousesBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 27117; www.millhouses.gr; Firostefani; d incl breakfast from €350; aWs)

Built right into the side of the caldera at Firostefani, down a long flight of steps, these superb studios and suites are chic and plush. Lots of white linen and whitewashed walls fill them with light. King-sized beds, Bulgari toiletries and private patios looking out over the Aegean are just a few of the lavish touches.

Anteliz SuitesBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 28842; www.anteliz.gr; r from €285; naWs)

North of Fira on the path that runs to Firostefani, Anteliz offers an amazing pool, sun terrace and oh, those views. Relax in the open-air hot tub and take it all in. The suites feature white-marble floors and a high degree of elegance and style – definitely one of Fira's top places to stay.

SLEEPING ON SANTORINI

There's so much to choose from in Fira and Oia that confusion can set in. Away from these main towns, the biggest concentration of rooms can be found in and around Kamari and Perissa. The latter is a good option if you are on a budget. High-season rates are as follows:

€ less than €100

€€ €100-250

€€€ over €250

Things to know about Santorini accommodation:

AFew of Fira’s sleeping options are cheap. For a caldera view, expect to pay a premium.

AThe sky is the limit here and in Oia: luxury accommodation is everywhere, with all the trimmings (private terrace, plunge pool etc).

AConsider accommodation in Firostefani and Imerovigli if you don’t mind a walk into Fira. There are plenty of quality hotels and restaurants with caldera views here too.

AMany hotels on the caldera rim cannot be reached by vehicle and may involve several flights of steps. Many hotels have porters who can help with luggage.

ASome domatia touts at the port may claim that their rooms are in town, when they’re actually a long way out; ask to see a map showing the exact location.

ASome places may offer free transfer to the port or airport; other places may charge €12 upwards for a transfer.

5Eating

Overpriced, indifferent food geared towards tourists is still an unfortunate feature of summertime Fira; thankfully, there are many excellent exceptions.

In general, there’s a price hike for a caldera view, while cheap eats surround the central square. Book ahead in July and August.

oTheoni's KitchenGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 25680; www.theoniskitchen.com; Dekigala; mains from €7; hnoon-midnight)

Theoni's isn't fancy and you won't be gazing out over the caldera, but this is the best 'momma's kitchen' home-cooked Greek food you'll find, with smiling, friendly owners and good service. Expect decent-sized portions of Greek classics and daily specials that may well have you returning for more. The Greek salad here is exceptional.

Galini CafeCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22095; www.galinicafesantorini.com; mains €6-14; h8am-midnight)

Just as you reach Firostefani, this breezy cafe welcomes you with brightly coloured flowerpots and a hand-crafted school of fish swimming overhead. Chilled out and friendly, with unparalleled caldera views, it’s a great place for breakfast or a light meal and cocktail at sunset. Gorgeous views.

To OuzeriTAVERNA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 21566, 6945849921; http://ouzeri-santorini.com; Fabrika Shopping Centre; mains €7-15; hlunch & dinner)

Central and cheerfully dressed in red gingham, this terrace restaurant has surprisingly reasonable prices. It’s a long-standing favourite with locals and tourist alike, with top traditional dishes like mussels saganaki, baked feta and stuffed calamari.

Cacio e PepeITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 24971; www.cacioepepe.gr; 25 Martiou; mains from €10; hnoon-midnight)

You're up for pizzas, pastas, meats, seafood and all kinds of Italian favourites at this proud place out on 25 Martiou. There's a full-on Italian wine list and they're especially proud of the signature dishes – the ravioli tartufo and the cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) spaghetti.

FanariGREEK€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 25107; www.fanari-restaurant.gr; dishes €7-20)

Tasty traditional Greek dishes and superlative views are on offer at this place overlooking the caldera on the steps down to the Old Port. Along with unique local recipes, seafood and fresh fish, there are local dessert favourites such as Santorini pudding and meletinia, made of skimmed-milk cheese and scented with mastic and vanilla.

Assyrtico Wine RestaurantGREEK€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22463; www.assyrtico-restaurant.com; Fira; mains €15-30; hlunch & dinner)

Settle in on this terrace above busy Ypapanti for polished local flavours accompanied by caldera views. Start with, say, the saganaki wrapped in a pastry crust, and follow with the deconstructed gyros or the white eggplant moussaka. Service is relaxed and friendly; the wine list is big.

o1500 BCSEAFOOD€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 21331; www.1500bc.gr; mains €22-39; hlunch & dinner)

With top views south across the caldera, this elegant patio serves top-quality food. Braised lobster, royal crab legs with green olive oil, and chateaubriand veal fillet are just a few of the mouthwatering choices. Service is impeccable – they'll debone the fish at your table and bring you a shawl if you're chilly.

KoukoumavlosGREEK€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23807; www.koukoumavlos.com; mains €28-34; hdinner Apr–mid-Oct)

This terrace is filled with gleeful diners partaking of award-winning fresh, modern Aegean cuisine (including a worthwhile degustation at €74). Creativity reigns and the menu is poetic, elevating dishes to new heights: ‘slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with potato mousseline flavoured with jasmine, fig and Greek coffee sauce’. Look for the pink building and wooden doorway. Book ahead.

MylosGREEK€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 25640; www.mylossantorini.com; Firostefani; mains €22-26; hlunch & dinner)

Located in a converted windmill on the caldera edge in Firostefani, this uber-glam venue has upscale food that’s ambitious in its techniques and beautifully presented. Try crispy fish ‘covered with sea snow’, or Greek black pork with Romesco sauce. Book ahead.

6Drinking & Nightlife

After midnight, Erythrou Stavrou fires up as the clubbing caldera of Fira, while Marinatou is lined with fabulously chic drinking spots.

Kira ThiraBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22770; Erythrou Stavrou; h9pm-6am Wed-Sun)

The oldest bar in Fira and one of the best. Dark wood and vaulted ceilings give it an intimate, cave-like atmosphere, with smooth cocktails and smoother jazz. With a huge viola hanging on the ceiling, this tiny bar is so popular it often gets swamped, especially when there is live music on offer.

Crystal Cocktail BarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22480; www.loucashotelsantorini.com; h10am-1am)

With views to die for, relax at Crystal with coffee in the morning and cocktails as your day evolves. This is one of those spots that you won't want to leave. Part of Loucas Hotel, Crystal is a top spot for romance, with stupendous sunsets.

Two Brothers BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23061; www.2brothersbarsantorini.com; h10am-6am)

Originally started by brothers Dimitris and Giannis in 1983, this Fira institution is now run by their sons, Jack and Leuteris. Expect a party vibe and when things really wind up, little room to move. Two-for-one cocktails from 4pm to 7pm and 9pm to midnight at this island favourite.

MoMix Bar SantoriniBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6974350179; www.facebook.com/MoMixBarSantorini; Marinatou; h8pm-5am)

It might take a minute to get your head around this, but MoMix is short for Molecular Mixology. This popular party spot offers innovative cocktails (to help your mind travel) and cool interior colours in its cave-like bar. Head outside for stunning caldera views.

Tango Champagne & Cocktail BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6947453999; www.tangosantorini.gr; Marinatou; h8pm-5am)

This is edge-of-the-caldera stuff, with stupendous views, delicious cocktails, a fashionable crowd and brilliant tunes that get louder and funkier as the sun goes down. Come for sunset and stay for hours and hours – or until your wallet is empty.

Koo ClubCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22025; www.kooclub.gr; Erythrou Stavrou; h10pm-5am Jun-Sep)

Hang out with your new best friends on the sofa-strewn, multi-tiered outdoor balconies while sipping cocktails to live DJs.

3Entertainment

The White Door TheatroTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 21770; www.whitedoorsantorini.com; €49; hMay-Oct)

Fira's popular Greek Wedding Show is a hit with visitors, featuring lots of traditional music, dance, fun and audience participation. Small plates (mezedhes) and local wine are included in the ticket, which can be booked online – advisable in the high season. The show is in an atmospheric open-air courtyard surrounded by whitewashed buildings.

Casablanca Soul BarLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6977575191; www.facebook.com/casablancasoul; Ypapantis; h9.30pm-5.30am)

This cocktail and absinthe bar is a Fira, hotspot with live bands, visiting DJs and soul well into the wee hours. Expect tasty cocktails and a relaxed vibe.

7Shopping

Mati Art GalleryARTS & CRAFTS, JEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23814; www.matiartgallery.com; Cathedral Plateau)

The installation pieces outside are sure to catch your attention before you even step inside this gallery. This is the main exhibition space of Yorgos Kypris, an internationally celebrated artist who takes much of his inspiration from Santorini. Take in his larger sculptures (incredible fish) and then consider home items, pendants and jewellery that are hard to resist.

Orion Art GalleryART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 21616; www.artoftheloom.gr; Kamares; h9am-10pm)

This new gallery and shop next to the Megaro Gyzi Cultural Centre at the northern end of town displays gorgeous pieces by some of the island's top artists. Expect everything from fusion glass to modern bronze statues, handmade jewellery and colourful ceramics. Everything can be packed and sent overseas.

AK Art GalleryART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23041; www.ak-galleries.com)

AK, Santorini's first art gallery, was founded in 1980 by local artists, painter Christopher Asimis and his wife, Eleni Kolaiti, who specialises in jewellery and sculptures. The stunningly white gallery, near the Orthodox Cathedral, was formerly a flour mill and features impressive art inspired by the beauty of the island. AK also has galleries in Oia and on the Fira–Pyrgos road.

Greco Gold SantoriniJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22460; http://grecogoldsantorini.gr; h10am-11pm)

Just north of the cathedral, Greco Gold has been around for over four decades, selling the well-known Greek brand Konstantino, handmade Byzantine-style jewellery and contemporary pieces designed and made by Greco Gold itself.

the White, SantoriniFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 36217; www.thewhitesantorini.com)

This small fashion boutique, run by designer Sophia Hatzigeorgiou, draws inspiration from Santorini's unique landscapes, colours and lifestyle. The clothing is hand-sewn in Greece and, as the name suggests, collections feature plenty of options in white. There's a second store out at Kamari Beach.

Theta 8FASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22866 72935; Marinatou; h9am-midnight)

The new kid on the block is a chic boutique in a white-cave shop on the steps down to the Old Port. It offers colourful leather bags handmade in Greece, plus appealing accessories. Owned and operated by three local women, expect friendly smiles and service.

8Information

There are numerous ATMs scattered around town.

Alpha Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Plateia Theotokopoulou) Has an ATM.

National Bank of Greece ( GOOGLE MAP ; Dekigala) South of Plateia Theotokopoulou, on the caldera side of the road. Has an ATM.

Central Clinic of Santorini ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 21728; www.santorinicentralclinic.gr) Health clinic just east of the town centre. Open 24 hours for emergencies.

Information Kiosk ( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri May-Sep) Seasonal information kiosk.

Dakoutros Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22958; www.dakoutrostravel.gr; Fira; h8.30am-10pm) Travel agency on the main street, just before Plateia Theotokopoulou. Ferry and air tickets sold; assistance with excursions, accommodation and transfers.

Police Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22649) In the centre of Fira.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Dekigala)

Oia Οία

Pop 670

Perched on the northern tip of the island, the village of Oia reflects the renaissance of Santorini after the devastating earthquake of 1956. Restoration work has whipped up beauty, and you will struggle to find a more stunning Cyclades village. Built on a steep slope of the caldera, many of its dwellings nestle in niches hewn into the volcanic rock.

Not surprisingly, Oia draws enormous numbers of tourists, and overcrowding is the price it pays for its good looks. Try to visit in the morning or spend the night here; afternoons and evenings often bring busloads from the cruise ships moored in the bay. At sunset the town feels like a magnet for every traveller on the island.

Oia, Santorini - Postcard-perfect Cycladic scenery. | CGE2010/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1Sights & Activities

oAmmoudiPORT

( GOOGLE MAP )

This tiny port of colourful fishing boats lies 300 steps below Oia. It’s a hot haul down and up again but well worth it for the views of the blood-red cliffs, the harbour and back up at Oia. Once you’re down there, have lunch at one of the excellent, if pricey, fish tavernas right on the water’s edge. In summer, boats and tours go from Ammoudi to Thirasia daily; check with travel agencies in Fira for departure times.

Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71156; €3; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Wed-Mon)

This museum is located along a narrow lane that leads off north from Nikolaou Nomikou. It’s housed in a renovated and converted 19th-century mansion and has endearing displays on Santorini’s maritime history. Oia's prosperity was based on its merchant fleet, which serviced the eastern Mediterranean, especially between Alexandria and Russia.

4Sleeping

Oia is known for its glorious luxury villas and suites cascading down the caldera. Book well ahead. If you're on a budget, consider staying elsewhere.

Maria's PlaceHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71221; www.mariasantorini.com; d studio €120; aWs)

Excellent midrange option, inland from town on the road to Finikia and a 10-minute walk to the caldera. Peaceful (no kids under 16), great hosts, lovely pool and very reasonable off-peak rates.

Zoe HousesAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71466; www.zoe-aegeas.gr; studio/apt €190/260; aiW)

Traditional houses built into the caldera’s edge with all the comforts of home. Classy decor, amazing views and unrivalled hospitality mean that this place gets a lot of happily returning guests. Book ahead. Each suite is different; some can sleep up to six.

Chelidonia Traditional VillasAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71287; www.chelidonia.com; Nikolaou Nomikou; studio €215, villa from €245; aW)

Traditional cliffside dwellings that have been in the owner’s family for generations and offer a grand mix of old and new. Modern niceties are offset with traditional wooden furniture, and private patios offer uninterrupted caldera views.

5Eating

Lolita’s GelatoICE CREAM€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71279; www.lolitasgelato.com; cones €3-6)

Near the bus station, Lolita’s sells scoopfuls of homemade heaven, including classics like blueberry or pistachio, plus original flavours like rosewater and red pepper. Take a break while you wait for the bus.

KrinakiTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71993; www.krinaki-santorini.gr; Finikia; mains €12-22; hnoon-late)

All-fresh, all-local ingredients go into top-notch taverna dishes at this homey spot in tiny Finikia, just east of Oia. Local beer and wine, plus a sea (but not caldera) view looking north to Ios.

KarmaGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71404; www.karma.bz; mains €11-17; hdinner)

With fountains, flickering candles, golden-coloured walls and wine-coloured cushions, this courtyard restaurant feels rather royal and august. The food is traditional and hearty, and as Karma is away from the caldera, the prices are considerably more relaxed.

SkalaGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71362; www.facebook.com/skalarestaurantoia; Nikolaou Nomikou; dishes €8-18; hlunch & dinner)

Watch life pass up and down to Armeni Bay from the high ground of Skala’s relaxed terrace. Traditional dishes like souvlaki, baked eggplant and cheese pies fill the crowd-pleasing menu.

1800GREEK€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71485; www.oia-1800.com; Nikolaou Nomikou; mains €13-35)

Housed in a restored sea captain's mansion, the artistically prepared modern Greek cuisine has won this restaurant accolades for years. Sea bass with an aromatic spell of quinoa, artichoke and fennel purée or grilled lamb with sweet-and-sour green apple sauce give you a glimpse at the creative menu. Dine inside or on the caldera-view rooftop.

7Shopping

Iatis WorkshopJEWELLERY, CERAMICS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 72127; www.facebook.com/IatisWorkshop; Nikolaou Nomikou)

With his studio at the back of the gallery, Christos Papageorgiou wows passers-by with his contemporary designs. Stunning silver and gold jewellery is professionally crafted and shimmers next to the artist's striking pottery.

Atlantis BooksBOOKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 72346; www.atlantisbooks.org; Nikolaou Nomikou; h11am-8pm)

This amazing little bookstore is a destination in itself. Follow quotes and words that wind their way down the stairs into a hobbit hole that appears to be held up by row upon row of books. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and musicians and other events are hosted on the rooftop.

8Information

ATMs can be found on Nikolaou Nomikou and also by the bus terminus.

Travel agencies such as NS Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71199; www.nst-santorinitravel.com) are found by the bus area.

DON'T MISS

CINEKAMARI

oCineKamariCINEMA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 33452; www.cinekamari.gr; Kamari; €8; h9.30pm)

After the caldera sunset, this is one of the finest ways to spend a Santorini evening. On the road into Kamari, this tree-surrounded, open-air cinema screens movies in their original language throughout the summer. Pull up a deckchair, request a blanket if you’re feeling chilly, and relax. Drinks and snacks available.

Around Santorini

There's more than just the spectacular caldera and sunset views to keep visitors busy on Santorini. Head out to visit impressive ancient sites, black-sand beaches, wineries (and a brewery) or take a boat tour to an active volcanic island in the caldera.

DISAPPEARING ACT

No one knows what happened to the Minoan people of Akrotiri as no human remains have been found at the site. Some believe that residents fled the city following the earthquake that took place two or three weeks before the volcanic eruption and are buried elsewhere on the island, beneath tonnes of ash. Others speculate that they recognised signs of impending doom and fled by boat towards Crete.

1Sights & Activities

Santorini's best beaches are on the east and south coasts. Sunbeds, beach bars and water sports operators are here to serve.

The long stretch of black sand, pebbles and pumice stones at Perissa, Perivolos and Agios Georgios is backed by bars, tavernas, hotels and shops and remains fairly relaxed.

Red (Kokkini) Beach, near Ancient Akrotiri in the south, has impressive red cliffs. Caïques from Akrotiri Beach can take you there and on to White (Aspri) and Black (Mesa Pigadia) Beaches for about €5 return.

Vlihada, also on the south coast, has a beach backed by weirdly eroded cliffs as well as tavernas; it also has a photogenic fishing harbour.

Kamari is Santorini’s best-developed resort, with a long beach of black sand. The beachfront road is dense with restaurants and bars, and things get extremely busy in high season. Boats connect Kamari with Perissa in summer.

Note: at times, Santorini’s black-sand beaches become so hot that a sunlounge or mat is essential.

oAncient AkrotiriARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 81366; http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2410; adult/child €12/free; h8am-8pm Apr-Oct, 8am-3pm Nov-Mar)

In 1967, excavations uncovered an ancient Minoan city buried deep beneath volcanic ash from the catastrophic eruption of 1613 BC. Housed within a cool, protective structure, wooden walkways allow you to pass through the city. Peek inside three-storey buildings that survived, and see roads, drainage systems and stashes of pottery. The vibe of excitement still courses through the site, with continued excavations and discoveries. Guided tours are available (per person €10) and help to give context.

Ancient ThiraARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 23217; http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2454; adult/child €4/free; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun)

First settled by the Dorians in the 9th century BC, Ancient Thira consists of Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine ruins and is an atmospheric and rewarding site to visit. The ruins include temples, houses with mosaics, an agora (market), a theatre and a gymnasium. Views are splendid. If you’re driving, take the narrow, switchbacked road from Kamari for 3km. From Perissa, a hike up a dusty path takes a bit over an hour to reach the site.

oArt SpaceGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 32774; www.artspace-santorini.com; Exo Gonia; h11am-sunset)F

This unmissable, atmospheric gallery is on the way to Kamari, in Argyros Canava, one of the oldest wineries on the island. The atmospheric old wine caverns are hung with superb artworks, while sculptures transform lost corners and niches. The collection features some of Greece’s finest modern artists. Winemaking is still in the owner’s blood, and part of the complex produces some stellar vintages under the Art Space Wines label. Tastings (€5) enhance the experience.

SAMPLING SANTORINI

Beyond caldera views, infinity pools and black-sand beaches, Santorini is cultivating a reputation for wine and food tourism. It’s a side of the island well worth exploring.

Food

Food-wise, the island is best known in Greece for its white eggplants, capers, cherry tomatoes and fava (yellow split peas, not unlike lentils). Cooked and puréed, the popular fava dish is traditionally eaten warm, as an appetiser (or dip), or accompanying a main course of meat or fish. Santorini was 'tomato island' before the tourism boom, though only one of 13 former tomato processing factories is still in operation.

Tomato Industrial MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 85141; www.tomatomuseum.gr; Vlihada; €5; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Despite the dry-sounding name, this is a unique look inside an old tomato factory in Vlihada. Tomato processing was a major industry on the island, and the video interviews of elderly former factory workers is fascinating. The seaside museum is part of the cool Santorini Arts Factory (www.santoriniartsfactory.gr), which hosts exhibitions, concerts and theatre; check its program online.

SeleneCOOKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22249; www.selene.gr; Pyrgos)

Acclaimed restaurant Selene ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22249; www.selene.gr; Pyrgos; mains restaurant €30-40, bistro €9-16; hrestaurant dinner, bistro lunch & dinner) offers a program of cooking demonstrations, wine-tasting and hands-on cooking courses, with plenty of opportunity for sampling the wares. Courses include a tour of the on-site Cultural Village ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 31101; www.santorinimuseum.com; Pyrgos; €4; h10am-4pm & 6-8pm Mon-Sat), which explores culinary, agricultural and other island traditions. See the website for details.

Wine

Santorini’s lauded wines are its crisp dry whites, and the amber-coloured, unfortified dessert wine known as Vinsanto. Both are made from the indigenous grape variety, Assyrtiko. Most local vineyards host tastings (usually for a small charge), and some offer food, with scenery and local produce combining to great effect.

Santorini Wine AdventureTOURS

(%22860 34123; www.winetoursantorini.com; half-day tours from €100)

Runs wine- and food-focused tours, including Santorini Wine Adventure, Wine & Food Lover Tour and Trails of History & Wine Tour.

Santorini Wine TourTOURS

(%22860 28358; www.santoriniwinetour.com; hhalf-day tour from €100)

Food- and wine-focused tours of Santorini.

SantoWinesWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22596; www.santowines.gr; tours & tastings from €12.50; h9am-9pm)

The best place to start your wine adventure is at Santorini’s cooperative of grape-growers, a large tourist-focused complex on the caldera edge near the port. It has short tours of the production process and lots of tasting options. There are also superb views, a wine bar with food and a shop full of choice vintages as well as gourmet local products.

Domaine SigalasWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 71644; www.sigalas-wine.com; Oia)

A polished, peaceful patch not far from Oia, with wine samples and platters among the vines. On the road between Finikia and the coast, you'll want to join a tour or use rental wheels to get here.

BoutariWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 81011; www.boutari.gr; Megalohori; h10am-7pm)

A relaxed winery on the way south to Akrotiri with 40 great wines to sample in a number of packages. Simple local dishes on offer too. This is one of seven Boutari wineries around Greece.

Wine MuseumWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 31322; www.winemuseum.gr; €9.50; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)

At the Koutsoyannopoulos Winery en route to Kamari, this heavily promoted attraction has a pricey, slightly kitsch museum in a traditional canava (winery). Admission includes tastings of four wines.

Beer

oSantorini Brewery CompanyBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 30268; www.santorinibrewingcompany.gr; h11am-5pm Mon-Sat summer, shorter hr rest of year)

The home of the island’s in-demand Donkey beers (you may have seen the eye-catching logo on your travels) is well worth a stop. Sample the Yellow Donkey (golden ale), Red Donkey (amber ale), the Crazy Donkey (IPA) and the White Donkey (wheat with a touch of orange peel). All are unfiltered, unpasteurised and extremely palatable. Free tastings, plus cool merchandise that makes a fun souvenir.

SANTORINI ON A BUDGET

Santorini doesn't need to blow your budget. If you don't need caldera views from your room and you'd rather have euros in your pocket, consider staying in Perissa on Santorini's southeast coast. It's all here at reasonable prices, and frantic Fira is only a €2.40 bus ride away.

Perissa, with its sizzling black pebbly sand, is arguably Santorini's top beach. Stelios Place is only a couple of minutes' walk back from the sand, with sparkling rooms that are a steal. Stay three nights and Stelios will pick you up and drop you off at the port or airport. Eateries such as Fratzeskos Fish Tavern ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 83488; www.facebook.com/fishtavernfrageskos1; mains from €8; hlunch & dinner) and Apollon Taverna ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 85340; mains from €8; h10am-midnight) line the beach – and don't worry, you won't miss out on nightlife, as The Beach Bar ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebeachbar.gr; h24hr; W) is open 24 hours a day in high season. Santosun Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 81456; h9am-9pm) on Perissa's main drag can meet all your travel requirements with rental cars, ferry tickets and tours.

4Sleeping

Karterados

oKarterados Caveland HostelHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 22122; www.cave-land.com; Karterados; dm/d incl breakfast €25/90; hMar-Oct; paWs)

This fabulous, chilled-out hostel is based in an old winery complex in Karterados about 2km from central Fira (see website for directions). Accommodation is in the big old wine caves, all of them with creative, colourful decor and good facilities. The surrounding garden is relaxing, and there are weekly barbecues, tennis courts, a swimming pool and yoga too.

Kamari

Narkissos HotelHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 34205; www.narkissoshotel.com; Kamari; r incl breakfast €75; hApr-Nov; aW)

A decent budget option at the southern end of Kamari, close to the beach and with well-kept rooms. Outside the summer peak, room prices tumble (€30).

Hippocampus HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 32050; www.hippocampus-hotel.gr; Kamari; d/tr/q €140/160/180; hMay-Oct; aWs)

Just steps from Kamari’s beachfront, this friendly place has a sparkling collection of rooms and studios, with added extras like hand-painted wall murals and a commitment to ecopractices. Good family-sized studios too.

Perissa

oStelios PlaceHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 81860; www.steliosplace.com; Perissa; d/tr/q €88/110/130; aiWs)

This small, family-run hotel has a great position set back from the main drag in Perissa, one block from the beach. Well-equipped rooms sparkle with cleanliness, as does the swimming pool. Breakfast is available. Free airport or port transfers for those staying three nights or longer; note that off-peak rates fall to a bargain €35.

Zorzis HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 81104; www.santorinizorzis.com; Perissa; d incl breakfast from €90; aWs)

Behind a huge bloom of geraniums on Perissa’s main street, Hiroko and Spiros (a Japanese-Greek couple) run an immaculate 10-room hotel. It’s a pastel-coloured sea of calm (no kids), with delightful garden, pool and mountain backdrop.

5Eating

BruscoCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 30944; Pyrgos; mains from €7)

In Pyrgos, Brusco offers coffee, wine and local flavours in a sweet rustic cafe-deli, with plenty of outdoor space. Stop by for the warm welcome, homemade cakes (including baklava) and platters of great Santorini produce (fava, tomatoes, eggplant, capers and more).

oMetaxi MasTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22860 31323; www.santorini-metaximas.gr; Exo Gonia; mains €8-19; hlunch & dinner)

The raki flows at this convivial taverna, a favourite among locals and authenticity-seeking travellers. In the central village of Exo Gonia (on the steep winding road between Pyrgos and Kamari), park by the large church and walk down some steps to reach it. Enjoy sweeping views and a delicious menu of local and Cretan specialities.

WORTH A TRIP

THIRASIA & VOLCANIC ISLETS ΘΗΡΑΣΊΑ & ΗΦΑΙΣΤΕΙΑΚΈΣ ΝΗΣΊΔΕΣ

Relatively untouched in terms of tourism, Thirasia (population 160) was separated from Santorini by an eruption in 236 BC. Clifftop Manolas, the main town, has tavernas and domatia. It’s an attractive place, noticeably more relaxed and reflective than Fira could ever be. Thirasia is a stop on a couple of ferry routes to/from Athinios a few times a week, or take one of the regular boats from Ammoudi, below Oia (€5). Ask at central travel agencies for the schedule.

The unpopulated islets of Palia Kameni and Nea Kameni in the middle of the caldera are still volcanically active and can be visited on various boat excursions from Fira Skala and Athinios. A day’s excursion taking in Nea Kameni, the hot springs on Palia Kameni (more lukewarm than hot), Thirasia and Oia starts at about €30.