Evia & the Sporades

Why Go?

Evia (Εύβοια) and the four Sporades islands (Οι Σποράδες) remain largely off the beaten island path. Although Evia is Greece’s second-largest island, it seems hidden in plain view, separated from the mainland by the narrow Evripos Channel at Halkida. Away from this workaday hub, the pace slows as the landscape stretches out, dotted by hilltop monasteries, small farms, vineyards, hidden bays and curious goats.

Most visitors will use Evia as a jumping-off point for the gorgeous Sporades (‘scattered ones’). They seem like extensions of the forested Pelion Peninsula and, in fact, they were joined in prehistoric times. Skiathos, easily the most developed, claims the sandiest beaches in the Aegean. Low-key Skopelos kicks back with a postcard-worthy harbour and forest meadows, while remote Alonnisos anchors a national marine park. Southerly Skyros is known for culinary and artistic traditions dating from Byzantine times, when these islands were home to rogues and pirates.

When to Go

AFeb & Mar Carnival season keeps things warm with plenty of merrymaking.

AApr & May Spring is in the air and Easter festivities linger long into the night.

AJun & Sep Perfect temperatures and clear skies – ideal hiking and swimming conditions.

Best Places to Eat

A Dina’s Amfilirion Restaurant

A Taverna-Ouzerie Kabourelia

A To Perivoli Restaurant

A Hayiati

A Stefanos Taverna

Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Nefeli

A Atrium Hotel

A Pension Sotos

A Liadromia Hotel

A Perigiali Hotel & Studios

Evia & the Sporades Highlights

1 Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum Delving into the artistic traditions and unique architecture of Skyros.

2 Bouzouki music Hearing live music after midnight, above the kastro (castle) overlooking Skopelos Town.

3 Dimosari Gorge Hiking this lush spot in south Evia, then cooling off in the sea near trail's end.

4 Alonnisos Watching for dolphins and cliff-dwelling falcons while sailing around Greece’s only national marine park.

5 Skopelos Finding crimson poppies and majestic butterflies while hiking the inland meadows.

6 Skyros Nuzzling up with one of the gentle and rare Skyrian horses.

7 Loutra Edipsou Swimming year-round in this thermal-fed bay on Evia.

8 Moni Evangelistrias Sampling the monks' wine on Skiathos, where Greek independence was first declared in 1807.

Evia ΕΥΒΟΙΑ

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Evia, Greece’s second-largest island after Crete, is mostly off the tourist map, with many visitors using it to nip off to smaller and more obviously enticing islands. Take some time here, though, and you'll find it offers glorious mountain roads, challenging treks, major archaeological finds and many uncrowded beaches. A north–south mountainous spine divides the island’s eastern cliffs from the gentler and resort-friendly west coast.

Ferries link the island to the mainland, along with two bridges at humdrum Halkida. One of these bridges is a sliding drawbridge (the original span dates from 410 BC) over the narrow Evripos Channel, which reverses direction about seven times daily, an event whose full explanation has eluded observers since Aristotle, and was dreaded by ancient mariners.

8Getting There & Away

There are regular buses between Halkida and Athens (€8, 1¼ hours, half-hourly), Ioannina (€45, seven hours, one to two daily) and Thessaloniki (€45, 6¼ hours, one to two daily).

There is also a regular train service between Halkida and Athens (€6.50, 1½ hours, 11 daily) and an express service between Halkida and Thessaloniki (€46, 5½ hours, six daily).

Five ports on Evia serve the mainland; one serves the island of Skyros; and another serves Skopelos and Skiathos.

Boat Services from Evia

Destination	Port	Cost	Duration	Frequency
Agia Marina	Nea Styra	€4	45min	6-9 daily
Alonnisos	Paralia Kymis	€26	3½hr	3 weekly
Arkitsa	Loutra Edipsou	€4	40min	8-14 daily
Glyfa	Agiokambos	€3	20min	5-7 daily
Rafina	Marmari	€9	1hr	3-4 daily
Skala Oropou	Eretria	€2.50	25min	half-hourly
Skopelos (Glossa)	Mantoudi	€19	1½hr	3 weekly
Skyros	Paralia Kymis	€12	1¾hr	1-2 daily

Central Evia

Central Evia is forested, lush and graced with beaches on both coasts, though the more remote eastern beaches facing the Aegean Sea have finer sand and even clearer waters.

Beyond the mainland bridge entry to Evia at busy Halkida, the road veers south, following the coastline to Eretria, a bustling local resort and archaeological site that's of moderate interest.

Further on, a string of hamlets and fishing villages dot the route until the junction at Lepoura, where the road forks north towards Kymi, and south towards Karystos. A rough dirt road winds west from Kymi to a rock-enclosed arc of beach at Paralia Hiliadou.

Halkida Χαλκίδα

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Mentioned in 'Iliad', once powerful Halkida (aka Halkis or Chalkis) spawned several colonies around the Mediterranean. The name derives from the bronze that was manufactured here in antiquity (‘halkos’ means bronze in Greek). Today there's little to detain tourists, but it’s a lively commercial centre, and the gateway to Evia. As evening approaches, the waterfront promenade by the old bridge comes to life.

1Sights

To glimpse Halkida’s diverse religious history, head up Kotsou towards the kastro (castle) to find a striking 15th-century mosque and 19th-century synagogue, adjacent to Plateia Tzami. About 150m south is the Byzantine church of Agia Paraskevi, and a Venetian aqueduct.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22210 15131; Leoforos Venizelou 13; €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Houses 7th-century-BC artefacts from both Halkida and nearby Eretria, including a headless torso of Apollo. Other remarkable finds from this former powerhouse city include a Hellenistic-era beak-mouthed jug and two golden wreaths.

Kokkino SpitiARCHITECTURE

(Red House; GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Tziarntini & Dimitrou Karaoli; €2; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun)

Halkida's 19th-century grandeur just about endures at waterfront Kokkino Spiti. Carved into the rock, it became headquarters for the occupying Germans in WWII.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel PaliriaBUSINESS HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22210 28001; www.paliria-hotel.gr; Eleftheriou Venizelou 2; s/d incl breakfast €60/80; paiW)

The waterfront Paliria bears more than a passing resemblance to a modern seven-storey cruise ship, and occupies a prime spot near the old bridge, with spacious and plain carpeted rooms. It's not a thriller, but it is quiet and comfortable.

Pantheon 1900TAPAS€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Voudouri; €3-7; h9am-1am)

Nestled in a handsome waterfront neoclassical building, this smart tapas bar features Greek wines, tasty small plates and snappy service.

8Information

Several ATMs cluster at the waterfront near the corner of Venizelou and Voudouri.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Karamourtzouni & Kriezotou; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

From Halkida, buses serve Athens (€6.50, 1¼ hours, half-hourly), Ioannina (€39, seven hours, four to six daily) and Thessaloniki (€40, 6¼ hours, eight to 10 daily). Regular trains also connect Halkida with Athens, and an express service runs to Thessaloniki.

From Halkida KTEL bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22210 20400; cnr Styron & Arethousis), 3km east of the old bridge (taxi fare €4), buses also connect to the following destinations on Evia:

Destination	Cost	Duration	Frequency
Eretria	€2.20	25min	hourly
Karystos	€14.20	3hr	3 daily
Kymi Town & Paralia Kymis	€9.20	2hr	3 daily
Limni	€8	2hr	3 daily
Loutra Edipsou	€14.20	3½hr	2 daily
Mantoudi	€8.20	2hr	3 daily
Steni	€3.70	50min	3 daily

Eretria Ερέτρια

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Eretria, about 20km southeast from Halkida, is the first place of interest on Evia for travellers coming from the mainland. It has a small fishing harbour, substantial archaeological remains, and a touristy boardwalk of lively tavernas, open-air cafes and beach bars.

1Sights

Ancient Eretria was a major maritime power with an eminent school of philosophy. The city was destroyed in AD 87 by the Roman commander Sylla. West of the ancient acropolis are the remains of a theatre with a subterranean passage used by actors to reach the stage, as well the remnants of baths, a gymnasium, a house with mosaics and a hilltop temple to Athena. Visit the Archaeological Museum for a map to tour these scant but fascinating sights.

Archaeological Museum of EretriaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22290 62206; www.gtp.gr/archaeologicalmuseumoferetria; Archaiou Theatrou & Isidos; €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

The signature piece at the museum is a terracotta depiction of the mythical Medusa, whose tresses were turned into live serpents by the goddess Athena as revenge for Medusa's dalliance with Poseidon.

4Sleeping & Eating

Milos CampingCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22290 60420; www.camping-in-evia.gr; campsites per adult/tent €6/4)

This well-managed and shaded campground, 1km northwest of Eretria, has a small restaurant, bar and 200m-long pebble beach.

Diamanto RoomsPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22290 62214, 6946836529; www.diamantorooms.gr; Varvaki 2; s/d €35/45; paiW)

Ten sparkling but old-fashioned rooms with balconies, cheerful service, a common kitchen and a plant-wreathed entrance way. Ask for a room with a sea view.

Villa Belmar ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6971588424; www.villabelmar.gr; s/d/f incl breakfast from €45/65/90; paiW)

Southwest of the port, these stylish apartments with a private waterfront deck are managed by welcoming sisters Lina and Renia.

PrimaveraTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22290 64051; mains €6-12)

A stand-out along the scenic but touristy seafront strip of restaurants, serving decent pizza, seafood, mousakas (baked layers of eggplant or zucchini, minced meat and potatoes topped with cheese sauce) and the like. Round it off with a slab of watermelon.

8Getting There & Away

Ferries travel daily between Eretria and Skala Oropou (€2, 25 minutes, half-hourly). Purchase tickets from the dock kiosks. There are regular buses to and from Halkida (€2.20, 25 minutes, hourly), which decant passengers in the centre of town.

Steni Στενή

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From Halkida, it’s 31km to the picturesque mountain village of Steni, with its gurgling springs, and shady plane and chestnut trees. Steni is also the starting point for hikers tackling Mt Dirfys.

A twisting road continues from Steni to Paralia Hiliadou on the north coast, where a grove of maple and chestnut trees borders a fine pebble-and-sand beach, along with a few domatia (rooms in private homes) and tavernas.

2Activities

Steni is the starting point for hiking up Mt Dirfys (1743m), Evia’s highest mountain. The Dirfys Refuge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22210 85760, 22210 25230, mobile 6974057517; www.eoschalkidas.gr; per person €12), at 1120m, can be reached along a 9km dirt road. From there, it’s a steep 7km to the summit. Experienced hikers should allow about six hours from Steni to the summit. For refuge lodging information (and key), as well as current hiking conditions, contact Minas Patsourakis (%22210 85760, mobile 6974057517; www.facebook.com/groups/eoschalkidas) and the EOS-affiliated Halkida Alpine Club ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22210 25230, 22210 25279; www.eoschalkidas.gr; Angeli Gouviou 22; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat). See the Anavasi Topo 25 map, Mt Dirfys 5.11 1:25,000.

4Sleeping

Hotel DirfysHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6972319451, 22280 51270; dirfis@otenet.gr; s/d incl breakfast €40/50; pW)

This is the most appealing of Steni’s three hotels. All rooms have balcony views of the surrounding forest, sparkling bathrooms, and the hotel taverna draws in locals come evening.

O NeromylosTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Agia Kyriaki; mains €5-10; hlunch & dinner)

The Watermill shares the lush landscape of Agia Kyriaki, signposted 3km southeast of Steni. Kitchen favourites include roasted mushrooms and homemade sausages.

Kymi & Paralia Kymis Κύμη & Παραλία Κύμης

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The workaday town of Kymi perks up at dusk when the town square comes to life. Kymi is a prosperous agricultural centre surrounded by vineyards and fruit orchards. The port of Paralia Kymis, 4km downhill, is the departure point for ferries to Skyros, Alonnisos and, in summer, Skopelos.

1Sights

Folklore MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22220 22011; Kymi; €2; h10.30am-1.30pm & 6-8pm Jul & Aug, 10.30am-2pm Wed, Sat & Sun rest of year)

The Folklore Museum, 30m downhill from the main square of Kymi, includes a display honouring Kymi-born Dr George Papanikolaou, inventor of the Pap smear test and pioneer in the early diagnosis of cancer. There are also exhibits on traditional homes and clothing.

4Sleeping & Eating

In Paralia Kymis, a string of tavernas lines the waterfront. Just 3km south in tiny Platana, there are a couple of excellent choices.

Corali HotelHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %69794 45548; www.coralihotel.gr; Paralia Kymis; r from €40; aW)

Much the best stop if you're waiting for a ferry, Corali is located just 500m from the port. The stylish modern building contains 21 plain, but comfortable, rooms. Farm fresh eggs and homemade pastries and jam feature on the breakfast menu.

KoutelosTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22220 71272; Platana; mains €7-11; hlunch & dinner)

This century-old taverna is known for well-priced standards such as fish soup, taramasalata (a thick pink or white purée of fish roe, potato, oil and lemon juice), and crunchy gavros (a marinated small fish). Splurge on a half kilo of fresh lobster with salad and wine (about €40 for two), and look out at the sea view.

7Shopping

Figs of KymiFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22220 31722; Platana; h9am-9pm Sep-Nov)F

Platana, 3km south of Paralia Kymis, is home to Figs of Kymi, a lively agricultural co-op supporting local fig farmers and sustainable production. Preservative-free fresh and dried figs and jams are on sale. Also open by appointment outside usual hours.

Northern Evia

From Halkida a road threads north into the mountainous interior of northern Evia, reaching the beautiful village of Prokopi, whose inhabitants are descended from refugees who came from Prokopion in Turkey’s Cappadocia region in 1923. They established the substantial pilgrimage church of St John the Russian, named for the saint who remains central to the town’s identity and livelihood to this day, and is celebrated with a festival on 27 May.

At Strofylia, the road heads southwest to picturesque Limni, which clusters around a bay, then north to the little thermal resort of Loutra Edipsou.

Loutra Edipsou Λουτρά Αιδηψού

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The sedate spa resort of Loutra Edipsou is the most visited spot in northern Evia. Its therapeutic sulphur waters have been celebrated since antiquity, and continue to draw a stream of medical tourists. Famous skinny-dippers have included Aristotle, Strabo, Plutarch, Plinius and Sylla.

Today, the town has Greece’s most up-to-date hydrotherapy and physiotherapy centres, and several hotels have their own modern facilities. The town beach (Paralia Loutron) heats up year-round thanks to the thermal waters that spill into the bay.

2Activities

EOT Hydrotherapy-Physiotherapy CentreSPA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22260 23501; 25 Martiou St 37; h7am-1pm & 5-7pm Jun-Oct)

The more affordable of the resort’s two big spas, the welcoming and attractive EOT Hydrotherapy-Physiotherapy Centre is speckled with palm trees and has a large outdoor pool that mixes mineral and sea water. Hydromassage bath treatments start at a very reasonable €8.

Thermae Sylla Hotel & SpaSPA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22260 60100; www.thermaesylla.gr; Posidonos 2; h9am-8pm)

This ultra-posh spa styles itself a 'thermal palace', with a late-Roman ambience befitting its name. It offers assorted health and beauty treatments, from thermal mud baths to seaweed body wraps, and an outdoor pool with curving edges makes a dramatic centrepiece.

4Sleeping

oHotel KentrikonHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22260 22302; www.kentrikonhotel.com; 25 Martiou 14; s/d/tr incl breakfast €40/50/60; aiWs)

Managed by Greek-Irish Konstantinos and Una, the Kentrikon is equal parts kitsch and old-world charm, with modern rooms and balcony views. A free thermal pool awaits, along with a professional massage therapist.

Hotel IriniHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22260 22634; www.hotelirini.gr; Byzantinon Aftokratoron 1; s/d from €25/35; aiW)

The cheerful and affordable Irini, tucked into a side street opposite the port, offers clean, snug rooms, most with sea views. It also has spa treatments and a hammam (Turkish baths), from €25.

Thermae Sylla Hotel & SpaHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22260 60100; www.thermaesylla.gr; Posidonos 2; s/d/ste incl breakfast from €110/170/260; paiWs)

This posh, in-your-mud-masked-face seaside resort offers elegant luxury accommodation as well as countless beauty treatments. Day visitors can sample the outdoor thermal pool (€35).

5Eating

Deux AmisBAKERY€

( GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Octovriou & Miaouli 1; items from €1.50)

This friendly, expansive bakery/cafe on the waterfront is a good bet for tasty and filling tyropita (cheese pie), bougatsa (creamy semolina pudding wrapped in a pastry envelope and baked), and all kinds of cakes and ice cream.

oDina’s Amfilirion RestaurantGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Octovriou 26; mains €8-12; hlunch & dinner)

Daily specials, no menu, await at this simple eatery 20m north of the ferry dock. A tasty grilled cod with oven potatoes, tomato-cucumber salad and wine runs to €12 per person. Look for the small wooden sign with green letters.

Ouzerie Ta KohiliaGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22260 23478; 28 Octovriou 20; mains €4-7; hlunch & dinner)

Look for the blue chairs outside to find the best mezedhes (appetisers) on the waterfront, next to the Avra Hotel.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Regular ferries run between Loutra Edipsou and mainland Arkitsa (€3.70, 40 minutes), and also between nearby Agiokambos and mainland Glyfa (€2.30, 20 minutes). Purchase tickets at the dock kiosks.

Bus

From the KTEL bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22260 22250; Thermopotamou), 200m from the port, buses run to Halkida (€14.20, 3½ hours, twice daily), Athens (€14.20, three hours, three to four daily) via Arkitsa, and Thessaloniki (€24, four hours, daily) via Glyfa.

Limni Λίμνη

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Picturesque Limni's maze of whitewashed houses and narrow lanes spill onto a cosy harbour speckled with cafes and tavernas.

1Sights

Convent of GalatakiCONVENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22270 31489; h9am-noon & 5-8pm)

The 16th-century Convent of Galataki lies 9km southeast of Limni, following a narrow road that hugs a picturesque shoreline (with plenty of stops for a swim) and then climbs steeply uphill. It is home to a coterie of six gently welcoming nuns and a fine fresco, Entry of the Righteous into Paradise, in its katholikon (principal church).

Museum of History & Folk ArtMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22270 31335; www.gtp.gr/historicalandfolkloremuseumoflimni; Anagnosti Goviou 7; €2; h9am-1pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun)

The town’s quaint folk museum, 50m from the waterfront, houses handsome village costumes and domestic items.

zFestivals & Events

Skyllias Swimming MarathonSPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; https://sites.google.com/site/skylliaslimni; hJul)

Limni's midsummer Elimnia Festival kicks off with the 14.5km Skyllias swimming marathon between mainland Theologos and Limni. It was named for the long-distance swimmer who, in 480 BC, warned the Greeks of the approaching Persian fleet.

4Sleeping & Eating

Rovies CampingCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22270 71120; campsites per adult/tent €7/6.50; pW)

Attractive, well-managed Rovies borders a pebble beach and a grove of olive and pine trees, 12km northwest of Limni. A restaurant and mini-market are open all day. There are 150 pitches, of which an increasing number are used by dive enthusiasts.

Home GraegosAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22270 31117; www.graegos.com; apt from €65; paW)

Graegos has four simple, but decent, apartments with modern kitchenettes and sweeping verandah sea views at the centre of the waterfront. The front two apartments have big balconies and sea views.

O PlatanosTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains €5-9; hlunch & dinner)

Tucked inside Limni's inner lanes, near the village museum, this popular local standby does excellent grills and hearty salads and serves great local wines.

Southern Evia

East of Eretria, the road branches south at Lepoura as the north's rich vegetation gives way to sparse and rugged mountains. A turn-off leads to Lake Dhistos, a shallow lake bed favoured by migrating egrets: water levels have been diminished by local agriculture. You’ll pass high-tech windmills and catch views of both coasts as the island narrows before reaching Karystos, the only really enticing resort here, where friendly locals enjoy life at a pace that makes you forget how close you are to Athens.

WORTH A TRIP

WHISTLING VILLAGE OF ANTIA

East of Karystos, the 'whistling village' of Antia is famous for its linguistically talented villagers who speak in whistles. One of a small global group of whistling languages, this one was devised during Byzantine times to warn of danger and invasion from pirates, with each tone corresponding to a letter of the alphabet. Until the early 1980s the language was still widely used, but today it’s mostly the old-timers who still put their lips together and blow. The good news involves a resurgence of interest in the whistling among the kids of Antia. Stay tuned.

Karystos Κάρυστος

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Set on wide Karystos Bay below Mt Ohi (1398m), and flanked by two sandy beaches, this low-key coastal resort is the starting point for treks to Mt Ohi and Dimosari Gorge. Karystos' lively Plateia Amalias faces the harbour, which glitters come evening with lights and bobbing boats.

1Sights

Archaeological Museum of KarystosMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22240 29218, 22240 25661; €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Karystos, mentioned in Homer’s 'Iliad', was a powerful city-state during the Peloponnesian Wars. The displays at the museum range from tiny Neolithic clay lamps to temple carvings and votive objects to an exhibit on the 6th-century-BC drakospita (dragon houses) of Mt Ohi and Styra. The museum sits opposite the castle.

BourtziCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP )F

Karystos' striking 14th-century Venetian castle is a remnant of the town's former fortifications. The low, bulky tower sits on the waterfront.

zFestivals & Events

Wine & Cultural FestivalCULTURAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22240 22246; hAug & Sep)

Karystos hosts a lively summer wine and cultural festival during the last week of August and the first week of September, which includes theatre performances, traditional dancing to the tune of local musicians, and exhibits by local artists. The summer merrymaking features local wines, free for the tasting.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHotel KarystionHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22240 22391; www.karystion.gr; Kriezotou 3; s/d incl breakfast from €40/50; paW)

The handsome Karystion sits above the beach just beyond the Bourtzi castle, and features modern, well-appointed rooms, a filling breakfast with homemade yoghurt and a helpful multilingual staff. A stairway leads to a sandy beach, great for swimming.

oCavo d’OroTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains €5-8; hlunch & dinner)S

Join the locals in this cheery alleyway restaurant off the main square for well-prepared Greek mainstays such as octopus in red wine sauce and country salads featuring local produce and olive oil. The genial owner, Kyriakos, is a regular at the summer wine festival, bouzouki in hand.

6Drinking & Nightlife

AerikoBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22240 22365; h8am-1am; W)

Aeriko is the pick of the harbour beach bars with a gorgeous sandy setting, live music on summer weekends, sun beds, decent drinks and an all-ages clientele.

8Information

Alpha Bank and Piraeus Bank ATMs are on the main square.

South Evia Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22240 26200; www.eviatravel.gr; Plateia Amalias; h10am-10pm)

8Getting There & Away

Boat

There is a regular ferry service from Marmari (10km west of Karystos) to Rafina (€8.50, one hour), and from Nea Styra (35km north of Karystos) to Agia Marina (€3.80, 45 minutes).

Purchase tickets from either the dock kiosk or South Evia Tours.

Bus

From the Karystos KTEL bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22240 26303) opposite Agios Nikolaos church, buses run to Halkida (€14.20, three hours), Athens (€19, three hours) and Marmari (€1.80, 20 minutes). A taxi to Marmari costs €18.

Around Karystos

The ruins of Castello Rosso (Red Castle), a 13th-century Frankish fortress, are a short walk from Myli, a well-watered village 4km inland from Karystos. The aqueduct behind the castle once carried water from the mountain springs to the Bourtzi in Karystos. A 3km walk from Myli brings you to a 2nd-century-AD Roman quarry (Kylindroi, meaning 'cylinder') strewn with massive marble columns, abandoned during the time of Caesar.

With your own transport you can explore the pristine Cavo d'Oro villages nestling in the southern foothills of Mt Ohi. Highlights include Platanistos, Potami and the walled ruins of an ancient settlement at Helleniko.

1Sights & Activities

In addition to Dimosari Gorge and Mt Ohi, worthy day hikes above Karystos include ambles through the natural springs of Agios Dimitrios Gorge, where a branch trail ascends to scenic Boublia Peak (1127m). From tiny Thymi, a narrow dirt track reaches beautiful Archampoli Beach, about an hour's walk.

South Evia Tours can help organise hiking excursions to Mt Ohi's and Styra's drakospita (dragon houses), as well as bicycle and kayak rentals, and cruises around the Petali Islands (€38). Owner Nikos and staff also arrange transport for hikes to the summit of Mt Ohi and back, and four-hour guided walks through Dimosari Gorge (€25).

Mt OhiMOUNTAIN

( GOOGLE MAP )

From Myli, it’s a four-hour hike up Mt Ohi (1398m) for magnificent Aegean views. It’s possible to stay overnight at a refuge at 1000m, then hike up to catch sunrise. The summit (Profitis Ilias peak) is home to the ancient and mysterious drakospita (dragon houses), Stonehenge-like dwellings or temples dating from the 7th century BC, hewn from rocks weighing several tonnes and joined without mortar.

The dragon houses' commanding position near marble quarries suggest that they were guard posts; another theory holds that they honoured mythological deities that roamed Mt Ohi, in particular the goddess Hera. Another dragon house near the road to Styra (30km north of Karystos) is equally fascinating.

oDimosari GorgeHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

A beautiful and well-maintained 10km trail that can be covered in four hours (including time for a swim). It begins in Petrokanalo village at 950m, descending through Lenosei village to the sea. Much of this stunning trek follows a cobbled path, splashing through shady creeks, ponds, giant ferns and forest before ending at the sand-and-pebble beach of Kallianos.