VEGETABLES

When I think of Filipino food, vegetables don’t immediately come to the forefront of my mind. Certainly, that’s not to say that there isn’t an ample selection of vegetables to accompany any Filipino meal. The Philippines is a veritable wonderland of tropical vegetation, where fruits of the soil are abundant and available to the local population. But let’s face it. In a predominantly rural, developing country, vegetarianism is more a forced condition than one of choice. As such, protein-based foods hold more value in the Filipino diet than vegetables alone; so vegetable dishes, though fundamental in a Filipino meal, are rarely vegetarian. More common are vegetables flavored with some type of seafood, poultry, or meat—appealing to the economy of a single dish—which make a complete meal when eaten with rice.

This chapter features vegetables in varying forms and functions. Pinakbet, a national dish of lightly stewed vegetables flavored with fermented shrimp paste, incorporates beautiful patty pan squash available during Chicago’s short summer. However, a simple substitution of kabocha or butternut squash for patty pans will give you a more traditional version and allow you to enjoy the bounty of fall and winter. Potatoes are one of my favorite vegetables, versatile as both a starch and vegetable. Though potatoes could never replace rice as the primary starch in the Philippines, I would feel remiss as an American not to include some form of potatoes in this collection. That’s where the Coconut-Garlic Mashed Potatoes come in, a rich, aromatic, and fantastic way to dress up an American favorite. Filipino saba, a cooking banana, is frequently used both as a savory and sweet ingredient in our cuisine. Here I’ve featured an easy-to-find substitute, the plantain, in Guinataan, a stew of banana, sweet potatoes, summer squash, and a hint of tropical sweetness added with coconut milk and the unique flavor of jackfruit.

The Adobong Kangkong is one of my favorites served hot or cold. Kangkong, or water spinach, is outstanding not so much for its leaves, which are similar to that of regular spinach, but for its hollow stems that retain a snazzy textural crunch even after sautéing.

If you’ve never tried chayote, Chayote with Mushrooms and Watercress will turn you on to this delicious and versatile squash common in most grocery stores. I’ve paired chayote with a double dose of shiitake mushrooms (fresh and dried) and peppery watercress for an addictive side dish that is a wonderful alternative to zucchini or yellow squash. Because Chinese long beans have always been a vegetable essential in my family, being an easy and prolific grower in the garden, I usually have a greater supply of beans than I have ways of cooking them. I stick to the basics when cooking beans, doing a quick sauté with butter and garlic or spicing it up with the Hoisin-Tamarind Glaze (page 145). I guarantee, this glaze will become a staple in your refrigerator. Dab a little on your sautéed broccoli, asparagus, or carrots; baste it on your grilled meats and chicken; use it as a dipping sauce for pot stickers or egg rolls. It’s that good.

WATER SPINACH ADOBO ADOBONG KANGKONG

Water spinach, or kangkong is pretty easy to pick out in the Asian greens aisle, which can carry nearly as intimidating a selection as the noodle aisle. With long, skinny, arrow-shaped leaves densely shooting up around willowy, hollow stems, kangkong is the giraffe among the horses, so to speak, and more than likely the longest of Asian greens. The tender leaves are very similar in flavor to spinach when cooked, although kangkong’s mouth-feel has a light slickness that I prefer over spinach’s astringency. The hollow stems, on the other hand, are outstanding because of their crisp firm texture that contrasts wonderfully against the wilted leaves. What I love about this dish (besides the kangkong) is that it is just as delicious served hot off the stove as it is served chilled from the refrigerator humbly garnished with sliced tomato, shaved red onion, or cucumber.

Serves 4 as a side dish

1 lb (450 g) kangkong water spinach, leaves and stems

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 green onion (scallion), chopped

½ teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

¾ cup (175 ml) Vegetable or Chicken Stock (see page 15)

1½ teaspoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon coconut or palm vinegar

1 small bay leaf

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the kangkong: Clean the kangkong by rinsing the leaves and stems under cold water and drying them on a kitchen towel. Pick the leaves off the stems and cut the stems into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces. Set the leaves and stems aside in separate bowls.

Sauté the kangkong: Heat the olive oil in a large 12 to 14-inch sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Sauté the garlic, green onion (scallion), and ginger for 30 seconds. Add the kangkong stems and sauté for another 2 minutes. Add the kangkong leaves, vegetable or chicken stock, soy sauce, fish sauce, vinegar, bay leaf, and pepper. Cover and steam for 7 to 9 minutes. Remove the cover and toss to combine. Discard the bay leaf and serve hot.

SWEET POTATOES, PLANTAINS, AND JACKFRUIT IN COCONUT SAUCE GUINATAAN

Traditionally, this dish is more of a dessert soup using savory ingredients such as saba (the native Filipino cooking banana), sweet potato, taro root, and plenty of coconut milk. Without the incomparable flavor of coconut milk, the dish just isn’t the same. But this healthier alternative turns the soup into a vegetable side dish that maintains the original’s flavor, using just a hint of coconut milk. Though saba bananas are difficult to find in the States, plaintains are an excellent substitute. I also love serving this dish during the summer, which allows me to use the freshest corn along with lanka, or jackfruit. Jackfruit is a tropical fruit, popular in Filipino cuisine for its very distinct flavor that complements both savory and sweet dishes. I am often asked for a suitable substitute, but, unfortunately, I haven’t yet found one with similar flavor. Jackfruit comes in a couple of preserved forms—either canned in a light syrup or frozen. Once in awhile, I’ll be lucky enough to find it fresh at the Asian grocer either whole or precut into sections.

Serves 6

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 green onion (scallion), thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 sweet potato, cut into ½-in (1⅓-cm) cubes

1 firm ripe plantain (approximately 10 oz/280 g), cut into ½-in (1⅓-cm) cubes

¼ cup (50 ml) Vegetable or Chicken Stock (see page 15)

¼ cup (50 ml) coconut milk

½ cup (75 g) sliced jackfruit

¼ lb (125 g) zucchini, cut into ½-in (1⅓-cm) cubes

¼ lb (125 g) yellow squash, cut into ½-in (1⅓-cm) cubes

2 ears corn, grilled with kernels cut from the cob

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the green onion (scallion), garlic, and ginger. Cook and stir for 30 seconds. Add the sweet potato, plantain, vegetable or chicken stock, coconut milk, and jackfruit. Cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes until the sweet potatoes become tender.

Add the zucchini, yellow squash, corn, and soy sauce and simmer for another 5 to 7 minutes until the summer squash is tender and the coconut milk has thickened into a rich sauce. Ladle onto a platter and serve hot.

COCONUT CORN PUDDING MAJA BLANCA MAIS

Maja blanca mais is a Filipino dessert or snack, a firm pudding flavored with coconut milk and corn and thickened on the stovetop with cornstarch. It is a delicious combination of flavors that I wanted to bring to the dinner table as an accompaniment to meats instead of rice. This recipe takes the essential ingredients and flavors of a traditional maja blanca mais and, with just a few minor adjustments to proportions, transforms it into a creamy, savory side dish, similar in texture to Italian polenta. It pairs magnificently with hearty stewed dishes such as Humba (page 108), Caldereta (page 108), and meat stir-fries, such as the Corriander-Crusted Beef (page 110) or Bistek (page 112).

Serves 4

1 (13½-oz/400-ml) can coconut milk

1½ cups (375 ml) water

¼ cup (50 g) sugar

¾ cup (125 g) yellow cornmeal

2 tablespoons glutinous rice flour

½ teaspoon salt

Dash of freshly ground black pepper

½ cup (75 g) corn kernels

½ cup (125 g) sour cream

Combine the coconut milk, water, sugar, cornmeal, rice flour, salt, pepper, and corn kernels in a large pot. Bring the mixture to a simmer over low-medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring frequently with a spoon or spatula to prevent the bottom from burning. It will become thick and creamy. Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream until well combined. Serve hot.

STEWED SQUASH, EGGPLANT, AND LONG BEANS PINAKBET

I’ve enjoyed pinakbet, a stewed vegetable medley, in many forms ranging from a saucy, tomato-laden stew to a dry sauté with the barest hint of tomato sofrito. Often a subtle meat or seafood element such as sliced pork, chorizo de Bilbao, or shrimp is added to complement the vegetables without overshadowing their freshness. But what every pinakbet has in common is shrimp paste, called bagoong hipon or bagoong alamang, the popular pungent condiment that when added to a dish lets you know that you’re not in Kansas anymore. I make my own version of bagoong for this recipe by sautéing a paste of tiny dried shrimp and fish sauce together with garlic and tomato to provide just the slightest hint of the sea. The vegetables are the focus of this year-round specialty. Butternut or kabocha squash swaps for pattypan during the cold months.

Serves 4

Shrimp Paste

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 heaping teaspoon dried shrimp

1 clove garlic, peeled

2 teaspoons fish sauce

Pinakbet

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 small tomato, diced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 tablespoons rice wine

½ cup (125 ml) Shrimp or Chicken Stock (see pages 14 and 15)

¼ lb (125 g) Chinese long beans, cut into 2-in (5-cm) pieces

¼ lb (125 g) round Thai eggplant, quartered (substitute any eggplant variety)

¼ lb (125 g) pattypan squash, quartered

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Make the shrimp paste: Use a mortar and pestle to mash together the olive oil, dried shrimp, garlic, and fish sauce until it forms a paste. Set aside. You may also substitute ½ teaspoon jarred bagoong alamang shrimp paste instead of making your own.

Cook the vegetables: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is moderately hot add the onion, ginger, and tomato. Cook and stir for 1 minute until the onion becomes translucent. Add the shrimp paste, tomato paste, rice wine, and the shrimp or chicken stock. Simmer the mixture for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the beans, eggplant, and squash. Season with black pepper. Cover and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a fork. Serve hot.

COCONUT-GARLIC MASHED POTATOES

I could hardly consider myself an American without admitting my addiction to mashed potatoes, the ultimate in American comfort food. However, the Filipina in me often requires that even the most American dishes have elements of Filipino flavor. Coconut milk and garlic don’t make these potatoes lighter or fluffier, healthier, or easier to prepare. Coconut milk and garlic just make them taste better, plain and simple.

Serves 6

2½ lbs (900 g) Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-in (2½-cm) cubes

8 cloves garlic, peeled

1 small bay leaf

5 to 6 cups (1 to 1½ liters) water

1 (12½ oz) can coconut milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place the potatoes, garlic, bay leaf, and water in a large pot. There should be enough water to cover the potatoes. Bring the pot to a boil and cook for 20 to 30 minutes until the potatoes and garlic are very tender when pierced with a fork. Pour the potatoes into a strainer to drain completely. Discard the bay leaf.

Pass the potatoes and garlic through a food mill returning the mixture into the pot. Over medium heat, add the coconut milk, butter, salt, and pepper to the potatoes, folding all the ingredients together so that they are well blended. Cook 3 to 4 minutes until the butter has melted and the potatoes are hot.

CHAYOTE WITH MUSHROOMS AND WATERCRESS

It’s very easy to pass right over chayote in the produce section, where it is often nestled off to the side of its more recognizable squash relatives. Filipinos have the Spaniards to thank for importing this Mexican native onto their soil. Chayote is a low-maintenance, versatile vegetable that is crisp and mild when eaten raw and delicately tender when cooked. Like zucchini or yellow summer squash, chayote has nice texture but it tends to lean toward blandness, which is why I find it best featured in boldly flavored soups, stews, or stir-fries. Here the chayote, shown to the right, is highlighted with mushrooms, both fresh and dried, for a double dose of earthiness and tossed with peppery watercress for a snappy finish.

Serves 4

¼ cup (50 ml) rice wine

¼ cup (50 ml) hot water

3 to 4 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 teaspoon olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 green onion (scallion), chopped

1 chayote, cubed

¼ lb (125 g) fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon fish sauce

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 bunches watercress, rinsed with woody stems removed

1 lime, sliced into wedges

Combine the rice wine and hot water in a bowl. Soak the dried mushrooms in the liquid for 15 minutes until tender. Remove the mushrooms, squeezing excess liquid back into the bowl. Remove the woody stems with scissors or a sharp knife. Slice the mushroom caps thinly and set aside. Reserve the soaking liquid.

Heat the olive oil in a medium sauté pan (2 to 3 quarts/liters) over medium heat. Add the garlic and green onion (scallion) to the pan. Cook and stir for 15 seconds, being careful not to burn the garlic. Add the diced chayote, the mushroom soaking liquid, the reconstituted mushrooms, button mushrooms, soy sauce, fish sauce, and pepper. Cover and cook for 7 to 10 minutes until the chayote is tender. Toss in the watercress and return the cover to the pan, allowing the watercress to steam for 1 minute. Pour the vegetables onto a serving platter and garnish with lime wedges. Serve hot.

STUFFED EGGPLANT WITH CURRY-TOMATO SOFRITO

RELLENONG TALONG

There is a flavor interplay between three components in this dish that makes it outstanding: caramelized onions, chorizo de Bilbao, and curry-tomato sofrito. The curry-tomato confit is an essential condiment in my refrigerator that I often use in place of a basic sofrito to excite my stews, sautés, or stir-fries. Naturally, fresh curry paste tastes better than dried curry powder. If an Indian market or Asian grocer is not close by, try experimenting with your own homemade curry paste, using ingredients that you love. I guarantee that once you’ve found the perfect combination of fresh chiles, lemongrass, ginger, and spices, powdered curry will never find a place in your kitchen again.

Serves 4

2 lbs (900 g) Chinese or Japanese eggplant

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 large eggs, beaten

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 onion, diced

¼ cup (50 ml) rice wine

¼ lb (125 g) chorizo de Bilbao or Chinese sausage, diced

1 cup (250 ml) Curry-Tomato Sofrito (see page 17)

1 green onion (scallion), thinly sliced on a bias

Cook the eggplant: To cook the eggplant in a microwave, follow Step 1; to cook it in a conventional oven, follow Step 2. Step 1. Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise and place on a microwaveable dish. Cook on high for 9 to 12 minutes until the eggplant flesh is very tender in the center when pierced with a skewer. Remove from the microwave and set aside to cool. Step 2. To cook the eggplant in a conventional oven, first pierce the eggplant skin with a knife in several places. Place the whole eggplant on a baking sheet. Cook in a 375°F (190°C) preheated oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour until very tender and ready to collapse. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Prepare the eggplant filling: Use a spoon to gently scrape out the tender flesh into a bowl, being careful not to tear the skin. Reserve the skins. Combine the cooked eggplant, garlic, soy sauce, oyster sauce, pepper, and eggs in a bowl and mix well. Set aside.

Cook the eggplant filling: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Melt the butter in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion caramelizes evenly to a golden brown. Deglaze the pan with the rice wine, scraping off any caramelized onion bits into the pan. Add the chorizo and cook for another minute. Pour the eggplant mixture into the pan and cook, without stirring, over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes until the eggs begin to set. Transfer the skillet from the stove to the oven and bake the eggplant for 25 to 30 minutes until the eggs have fully set. Remove the eggplant from the oven and cool slightly before stuffing the skins.

Stuff the eggplant skins: Spoon the cooked eggplant into the skins. Spread warm curry-tomato sofrito on top and garnish with a sprinkle of green onion (scallion). Serve immediately while hot.

You can prepare this dish a day ahead and reheat the eggplant in a preheated 350°F (175°C) oven.

HOISIN-TAMARIND GLAZED LONG BEANS GUISADONG SITAO

Guisado means “stew” and sitao are Chinese long beans. The intimidating bundles of 1 to 3-foot-long beans may look unapproachable coiled up on the grocer’s stand. But if you’ve purchased and cooked American varieties of green beans, you already know what to do with these beauties. Look for beans that are pencil-thin and approximately 1 to 1½ feet (30 to 46 cm) in length. At this stage they will be at their peak of tenderness. Longer thicker beans are older and tend to become tough with age. Long beans are either pale or dark green in color and should be free of brown spots or discolorations. Although long beans have bumpy textured skin, the pliant beans should never be withered or limp. Cut the beans into 2 to 3-inch pieces and cook them as you would any American variety. The hoisin-tamarind sauce used to flavor these beans is an explosion of sweet and tangy that you won’t soon forget. It also makes a handy glaze for your steamed or stir-fried vegetables. Try it on broccoli, asparagus, cauliflower, or carrots.

Serves 4

Hoisin-Tamarind Glaze: makes 1 cup (250 ml)

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or dried red pepper flakes

½ cup (125 ml) tamarind juice

½ cup (125 ml) hoisin sauce

Glazed Long Beans

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil

1½ lbs (675 g) Chinese long beans, cut into 2-in (5-cm) pieces

2 cloves garlic, chopped

3 tablespoons rice wine

¼ cup (50 ml) Vegetable or Chicken Stock (see page 15)

¼ cup (50 ml) hoisin-tamarind glaze

1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds or

1 green onion (scallion), chopped

Make the hoisin-tamarind glaze: Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Sauté the garlic, ginger, and sambal ulek together for 30 seconds, being careful not to burn the garlic. Remove from the heat. Add the tamarind juice and hoisin sauce. Stir to mix well and cool. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Cook the beans: Heat the oil in a large sauté pan or wok over high heat. When hot but not smoking add the long beans. Cook and stir for 2 to 3 minutes until the beans have started to brown. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the rice wine, chicken stock, and hoisin-tamarind glaze. Cook over medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes until beans are fully cooked and the sauce has thickened into a glaze. Spoon the beans onto a platter and garnish with toasted sesame seeds or chopped green onion (scallion). Serve immediately.

PINEAPPLE AND CASSAVA TARTS

ALMOND LECHE FLAN FILIPINO FRUIT SUNDAE HALO-HALO

TEA CUSTARD EARL GRAY NATILLAS

MERINGUE ROLL WITH CHOCOLATE CREAM CHOCOLATE BRAZO DE MERCEDES

CASHEW TORTE WITH VANILLA MOUSSE SANS RIVAL

COCONUT-PANDAN TAPIOCA BUKO PANDAN SAGO

AMBROSIA SHORTCAKE WITH CASSAVA BISCUIT

BANANA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCONUT EGG ROLLS TURON