PICKLES AND SALADS

Filipinos are vinegar junkies. In fact, vinegar tops the seasoning hierarchy at number three, after salt (soy or fish sauce are salt equivalents) and black pepper as a way of simultaneously flavoring and preserving many cooked and uncooked foods. Since lettuces are not a substantive crop grown on the islands, pickled vegetables and local greens, collectively called achara, are the Filipino answer to salad and are offered on the table as a refreshing condiment to the main dish, transforming plain steamed rice into a substantive meal or adorning heavier viands of meat or fish. This chapter includes a delicious, goes-with-everything achara of jicama, green papaya, and daikon radish flavored with a subtle harmony of five-spice infused vinegar. With just a touch of sweetness, this achara is surprisingly versatile as an exciting and healthy accompaniment to grilled fish, broiled chicken, or even a juicy burger.

Also included is a sweet-tart pickle of green mangoes and jackfruit, a remarkable combination of two super-charged fruits that will knock your socks off. My lettuce-loving sensibility has compelled me to include one “saladesque” dish in this chapter, the Sinkamas Salad with green papaya, jicama, and watercress paired with an almond-pear vinaigrette, admittedly a crossroads combination of Eastern ingredients and Western techniques.

Walking through Cebu’s outdoor food markets in the Philippines is a cook’s dream, a visual bombardment of fresh fruits and vegetables that compel locals and tourists alike to buy, eat, and enjoy nature’s bounty. Staples of mangoes, sweet corn, tomatoes, eggplant, and water spinach invite simple preparation for their flavors to shine. The Cucumber and Tomato Salad is a mid- to late-summer favorite, when my garden spits out juicy tomatoes faster than I can use them. Simple and satisfying, this salad gets meaty with slices of buffalo mozzarella and a sunny citrus-anchovy dressing, making it a meal in itself. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by the Water Spinach Salad that pairs crunchy water spinach stems kangkong with bean sprouts in a spicy sesame dressing for an addictive side dish. With forests of coconut palms covering the islands, fresh ubod (palm hearts) are a common delicacy. Here they are featured with the herbaceous bite of Chinese celery and clean tang of tart Granny Smith apples, a winning combination that makes a compelling alternative to your standard coleslaw.

With over seven thousand islands making up the Philippine archipelago, the seas surrounding the islands are the veins through which the lifeblood of the Philippines flows. It is only natural that seafood plays a primary role in the Filipino diet and is enjoyed with zeal and creativity. Kinilaw or kilaw is the ancient practice of lightly “cooking” only the freshest seafood without heat in an acidic marinade such as tamarind, citrus, or vinegar merely to firm the texture and infuse the flavor. Included in this chapter are two very friendly kilaw recipes—Salmon Kilaw and Scallop Kilaw—full of flavor and balance, which use coconut cream to tame the acidic edge into a smooth vibrant finish. The Salmon Kilaw is paired with a shaved fennel salad for another layer of subtle anise flavor atop the five-spice vinegar used to marinate the fish. In the Scallop Kilaw, sweet pineapple and red bell peppers make an irresistible sweet-sour trio served on toasted bread or crispy rice cakes. Also featured is a fantastic grilled squid salad flavored with Spanish chorizo and olives that your guests won’t soon forget.

PICKLED GREEN MANGOES AND JACKFRUIT

For Filipinos, nothing beats the sweet juicy indulgence of a perfectly ripe mango, except perhaps for the tart bite of a green mango. Green mangoes are prized on the Islands for their sour flavor and firm texture, which makes them a versatile souring ingredient in soups, stir-fries, and pickles. Green mangoes are even gobbled up with nothing more than a dab of salty bagoong shrimp paste to make a snack as popular on the Islands as potato chips are in the States. In this recipe I’ve paired green mangoes with the incomparable flavor of jackfruit for a pickle that is both sour and sweet. This savvy relish, shown opposite, is a delightful partner for grilled poultry or fish and even gives burgers new possibilities.

Serves 6

2 green mangoes, peeled and sliced into ½-in (1⅓-cm) batons

1 (20-oz/570-g) can jackfruit, drained and sliced, reserve syrup for pickling liquid

Pickling Liquid

½ cup (125 ml) palm or coconut vinegar

¾ cup (175 ml) jackfruit syrup, reserved from canned jackfruit

½ cup (125 ml) water

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon black peppercorns

1 bay leaf

1 small sili labuyo (Thai chile), chopped

One ½-in (1 ⅓-cm) slice fresh ginger, peeled

One 2-in (5-cm) piece lemongrass, smashed to release its essence

Fill a 1-quart/liter preserving jar with sliced mangoes and jackfruit.

Combine the ingredients for the pickling liquid in a small saucepan. Simmer for 15 minutes to marry the flavors. Strain the liquid into a bowl and pour into the jar with the man-goes and jackfruit, making sure that the fruit are completely submerged in the pickling liquid. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate. Chill for 24 hours before serving. Keeps in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 weeks.

FIVE-SPICE PICKLED VEGETABLES ACHARA

Achara follows the Filipino pattern of being both a specific dish as well as a cooking technique. It refers to the pickling of any variety of fruits or vegetables in native souring agents, which may include palm vinegar, tamarind, or calamansi, a citrus fruit similar to lime. Here I’ve opted to use a five-spice infused vinegar that will add body and dimension to the tang. I keep a pickle jar of achara in my refrigerator at all times to add instant texture and flavor contrast to grilled fish, meat, or chicken, similar to a relish or salsa. A mandoline or vegetable slicer is just the tool to create long, matchstick strips in a flash.

Serves 6

Achara

1 small carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks

4 small radishes, cut into matchsticks

¼ lb (125 g) green papaya, peeled, deseeded, and cut into matchsticks

¼ lb (125 g) jicama, peeled and cut into matchsticks

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

Vinaigrette: makes 1½ cups (375 ml)

½ cup (125 ml) Five-Spice Vinegar (see page 18)

1 cup (250 ml) water

¼ cup (50 g) sugar

½ teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

Juice of 1 lime

Pinch of dried red pepper flakes

Prepare the vegetables: Combine the carrot, radishes, green papaya, jicama, and red onion in a large bowl. Toss to combine.

Make the vinaigrette: Combine all the ingredients in a small pot over medium heat and simmer for 3 minutes. Stir to ensure that all of the sugar has dissolved. Pour the hot vinaigrette over the shredded vegetables, pressing down the vegetables so that they are submerged in the liquid. Cool to room temperature before serving. Store the achara in an airtight container with pickling liquid in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

MARINATED SCALLOPS WITH PINEAPPLE AND COCONUT CREAM SCALLOP KILAW

Kilaw, or kinilaw, is what Edilberto Alegre and Doreen Fernandez describe in their book Kinilaw as cooking with liquid fire. It is the culinary term for a technique that requires using only the freshest fish, meats, or vegetables and briefly applying a condiment of native vinegar or acid just until the food is barely past raw. Although similar to Mexican seviche in principle, kilaw is an ancient cooking method in the Philippines that predates the Spaniards who brought many Mexican elements to the islands. This kilaw is different in that the coconut cream tames much of the acidic edge. Serve this kilaw plain, accompanied by a salad, or on toast as an appetizer. The Hoisin-Tamarind Glaze (page 145) and a little of the spicy sambal ulek are the perfect sauces to garnish the kilaw for an added layer of zing.

1 lb (450 g) bay scallops (substitute chopped sea scallops)

1½ cups (375 ml) Five-Spice Vinegar (see page 18)

1 lime, zest and juice

1 small red bell pepper, finely diced

1 cup (175 g) finely diced fresh pineapple

1 green onion (scallion), finely chopped

¼ cup (50 ml) Coconut Cream (see page 16)

¼ teaspoon salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

Combine the scallops, five-spice vinegar, and lime zest and juice together in a nonreactive container. Marinate for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Drain and discard all the liquid from the scallops.

Toss the scallops in a bowl with the red bell pepper, pineapple, green onion (scallion), coconut cream, salt, and pepper until well mixed. Chill for 1 hour before serving.

GREEN PAPAYA AND JICAMA SALAD SINKAMAS

Lettuces and salad greens have never been a traditional component of a Filipino meal. But this hybrid salad is reminiscent of the achara pickles that Filipinos prefer as an accompaniment to their main dishes. The clean flavors of jicama sinkamas and green papaya are united with watercress for a combination that is both vibrant and herbaceous. The almond-pear vinaigrette is a European import that reflects my affinity for oil-based salad dressings, a nonexistent condiment in Filipino cuisine. A few drops of pure almond extract and pear juice go a long way to add loads of fresh flavor without a tremendous amount of oil. The vinaigrette is also a versatile dressing, terrific for coleslaw or as a dipping sauce for fresh vegetables.

Serves 6

Almond-Pear Vinaigrette: makes 1v cups (425 ml)

1 pear, peeled and cored

1 (6-oz/180-ml) can pear juice or pear nectar

¼ cup (50 ml) plus 2 teaspoons palm vinegar (substitute rice vinegar)

¼ teaspoon pure almond extract

1 clove garlic, peeled

¼ teaspoon peeled and chopped fresh ginger

¼ cup (50 ml) extra virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Salad

½ lb (225 g) jicama, peeled and cut into matchsticks

½ lb (225 g) green papaya, peeled, deseeded, and cut into matchsticks

1 bunch watercress, rinsed, woody stems removed

½ cup (100 g) toasted almonds 1 pear, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon toasted black sesame seeds

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Prepare the vinaigrette: Place all of the vinaigrette ingredients in a blender. Blend for 1 to 2 minutes until smooth. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Make the salad: Combine the shredded jicama, green papaya, and watercress in a large salad bowl. Pour ½ cup (125 ml) of the almond-pear vinaigrette over the salad. Season with salt and pepper and gently toss. Sprinkle the almonds over the salad. Garnish with pear slices and a sprinkling of black sesame seeds on top.

CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD

Summer could hardly pass in Chicago without leaving in its wake overflowing spoils of tomatoes in every variety and color. Leave it to Mother Nature to provide the bulk of the flavor in this dish by choosing the freshest ripest tomatoes of the season. In the Philippines kesong puti, a soft-ripened cheese made from fermented caribou milk, is the native cheese enjoyed with this dish for its sweet creaminess and tangy finish. Pure buffalo mozzarella mimics the flavor and texture of kesong puti for an excellent stand-in. The anchovy dressing features bagoong balayan, a fermented anchovy sauce found in the condiments section of Asian markets. Canned anchovy fillets can be used in a crunch, although your dressing won’t have the unique flavor print characteristic of Southeast Asia.

Serves 4

Citrus-Anchovy Dressing: makes ¼ cup (50 ml)

¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil

2 tablespoons calamansi juice

1 tablespoon chopped green onion (scallion)

1 clove garlic, peeled

2 teaspoons bagoong balayan (anchovy paste) or 2 fillets canned anchovies

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

½ teaspoon sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Salad

2 tomatoes, cored and sliced

1 English cucumber, sliced

¼ lb (125 g) fresh buffalo mozzarella (substitute kesong puti), sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Prepare the dressing: Combine the olive oil, calamansi juice, green onion (scallion), garlic, anchovy paste, fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), and sugar in a blender. Blend until smooth and season with salt and pepper. Pour the dressing into a small bowl and set aside.

Assemble the salad: Arrange alternating slices of tomato, cucumber, and mozzarella on a large serving platter. Spoon the dressing over the salad. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

GRILLED SQUID WITH CHORIZO AND OLIVES PUSIT SALAD

One food you’re sure to find in ample abundance across the islands from modest food stalls to upscale restaurants is pusit, or squid. Filipino homage to squid includes enjoying it dried, grilled, stewed in adobo, stuffed, even raw in kilaw. This grilled squid salad is an offshoot of a delicious dish my mother used to make of marinated squid tinged with vinegar, garlic, and onions. Bagoong hipon, or shrimp paste, was often on the table but I prefer adding it directly to the vinaigrette. If you’re not comfortable cooking squid, now’s the time to jump right in and see how easy it is. As a general rule, squid remains tender with quick, high-heat cooking (grilling, sautéing, or stir-frying for less than 5 minutes) or long, slow, moderate-heat cooking (stewing or braising for at least 25 minutes). We’re taking the shorter route in this recipe.

Serves 4

Vinaigrette

2 tablespoons coconut or palm vinegar

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon shrimp paste

1 teaspoon fish sauce

Dash of dried red pepper flakes or ground red pepper

¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil

Salad

1 lb (450 g) whole baby squid, cleaned

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 oz (50 g) cured Spanish chorizo, sliced

¼ cup (50 ml) pitted green Spanish olives

1 green onion (scallion), chopped

1 medium tomato, deseeded and diced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

Make the vinaigrette: Combine the vinegar, garlic, ginger, sugar, shrimp paste, fish sauce, and dried red pepper flakes in a blender or food processor. While the machine is running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Set aside.

Marinate the squid: Place the squid, soy sauce, olive oil, and pepper in a bowl. Stir to combine and marinate for 5 minutes. Preheat the grill over a medium-high flame.

Cook the squid and assemble the salad: Grill the squid for 2 to 3 minutes per side until cooked through and place in a serving bowl. Add the chorizo, olives, green onion (scallion), tomato, and fresh coriander leaves (cilantro). Toss with the vinaigrette. Serve warm or chilled.

How to Clean Squid

Let’s assume that you’ve decided to really get your hands dirty with squid and have admirably bypassed the dozens of varieties of precleaned, frozen squid. You’ve sniffed, picked, and prodded through the fishmonger’s squid supply and chosen the best of the bunch. How do you transform the alienlike creatures into a sleek, white, ready-to-cook delicacy? You’ll first want to pull out the “pen,” the transparent, plasticlike shell of the squid attached to the inside body. It is easy to locate if you run your finger along the open edge of the body, just below the head. Next, separate the head from the body, also called the mantle. Hold the body firmly with one hand and the head with the other and pull the two apart. The innards should come trailing out loosely attached to the head. Separate the head from the tentacles by cutting above the eyes. Feel around the center base of the tentacles for the hard bonelike “beak.” Remove and discard that along with the head and innards. Set the tentacles aside. Starting at the wings attached to the base of the squid body, peel off and discard the mantle’s purple skin, revealing opaque white flesh. The tentacles and body are now ready to use.

WATER SPINACH SALAD WITH SESAME DRESSING

Water spinach and bean sprouts combined in salad may seem like an odd couple. But once you get past the slippery kangkong leaves, which don’t play much part in this dish, you get to the kangkong stems, which have the same addictive quality that bean sprouts boast—an irresistible crispness that makes for a snappy toothy salad. The bean sprouts should be firm and fresh when you purchase them and used immediately. Trim the kangkong leaves from the hollow stems and reserve them for Adobong Kangkong (page 138), or as a spinach substitute. This recipe for spicy sesame dressing will leave you with enough leftover to drizzle on grilled vegetables or a green salad.

Makes 4 servings

Sesame Dressing: makes ½ cup (125 ml)

¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon palm or coconut vinegar

2 to 3 calamansi, zest and juice (substitute lime, 1 tablespoon each of zest and juice)

1 teaspoon shrimp paste

2 teaspoons fish sauce

1 teaspoon peeled and chopped fresh ginger

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

½ teaspoon sambal ulek or dried red pepper flakes

Salad

6 cups (1½ liters) water

½ lb (225 g) bean sprouts

¼ lb (125 g) kangkong stems, washed and sliced into pieces

1 green onion (scallion), finely chopped

Salt and ground pepper to taste

2 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts

Make the dressing: Combine the olive oil, sesame oil, vinegar, citrus zest and juice, shrimp paste, fish sauce, ginger, sugar, and sambal ulek in a blender. Blend on high until smooth. Pour the dressing into a small bowl and set aside. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Make the salad: Boil the water in a medium pot over high heat. Add the bean sprouts to pot and blanch for 1 minute. Use a mesh strainer to remove the sprouts from the water into a colander. Plunge the sprouts into a bowl of ice water to immediately stop the cooking. Drain the sprouts well and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large bowl. Return the pot of water to a boil. Add the kangkong stems and cook for 3 to 4 minutes until tender but still crispy. Remove the stems from the pot and shock in ice water as you did with the bean sprouts. Drain well, pat dry with paper towels, and add to the bean sprouts. Add the green onion (scallion) and ¼ cup (50 ml) of the sesame dressing. Toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with crushed peanuts before serving.

PALM HEARTS AND APPLE SALAD WITH CALAMANSI MAYONNAISE

Ubod, or young coconut palm hearts, are a delicacy in Filipino cuisine, particularly enjoyed in fresh lumpia ubod spring rolls or pickled in achara. The potent combination of tart apple, herbaceous celery, and creamy palm hearts forms a refreshing trio that will make this salad a regular addition to your repertoire.

Serves 4

Calamansi Mayonnaise: makes 1 cup (250 ml)

1 large egg yolk

3 tablespoons calamansi juice

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon mustard

1½ teaspoons peeled and finely minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

Dash of freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (250 ml) vegetable oil

Salad

8 oz (225 g) hearts of palm, sliced

1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/8-in (3-mm) matchsticks Two 2-in (5-cm) pieces celery, cut into thin matchsticks

1 shallot, very thinly sliced

¼ cup (25 g) chopped roasted cashews

Dash of sea salt

Make the mayonnaise: Place the egg yolk, calamansi juice, honey, mustard, ginger, salt, and pepper in a food processor and start the machine. As the machine is running, very slowly add the oil in a thin stream through the top feed. If you add the oil too quickly, it will not emulsify with the egg. Check the consistency of the mayonnaise. If it is too thick, add a few drops of water. If it is too thin, continue to add up to ¼ cup (50 ml) more oil until it reaches your desired thickness.

Scoop the mayonnaise into an airtight container and keep in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Make the salad: Combine the palm hearts, apple, celery, shallot, and ½ cup (125 ml) of the mayonnaise in a bowl. Toss to combine and chill for 30 minutes. Sprinkle the salad with the chopped cashews and sea salt before serving.

MARINATED SALMON SALAD WITH FENNEL SALMON KILAW

Kilaw is both a cooking technique as well as a specific dish. Lightly marinating fish in an acid such as lime juice, vinegar, or tamarind is a wonderful method of “cooking” fish so that it retains its freshness and texture. I particularly like using heavily flavored fish such as salmon, mackerel, or sardines for this recipe because their dominant flavors not only couple well with the five-spice vinegar but complement the anise-flavored fennel.

Serves 4

½ lb (225 g) fresh salmon fillet

1¼ cups (300 ml) Five-Spice Vinegar (see page 18)

3 tablespoons Coconut Cream (see page 16)

¼ teaspoon salt

Dash of freshly ground black pepper

1 small fennel bulb, thinly shaved

2 cups (50 g) baby salad greens

2 lime wedges

Sea salt

Marinate the salmon: Place the salmon fillet in a nonreactive dish. Pour 1 cup (250 ml) of the five-spice vinegar over the salmon and cover with plastic wrap. Marinate for 15 minutes in the refrigerator. Turn the fillet over and marinate another 15 minutes. The flesh will turn an opaque pink but the center of the fillet will remain translucent. Remove the fillet from the dish and discard the marinade. Slice the salmon into ¼-inch (6-mm) slices. Set aside.

Make the salad dressing: Combine the remaining ¼ cup (50 ml) five-spice vinegar with the coconut cream, salt, and pepper. Whisk the ingredients together.

Make the fennel salad: In another bowl combine the shaved fennel and salad greens. Pour the coconut dressing over the salad and lightly toss. Arrange the salad on a serving platter. Lay the sliced salmon around the salad. Squeeze the salmon lightly with lime and sprinkle with sea salt just before serving.

BLACK AND WHITE RICE WITH SEAFOOD PAELLA PIRURUTONG A LA FILIPINA

GARLIC FRIED RICE SINANGAG

FRAGRANT RICE WITH GREEN MANGO SINANGAG NGA MAY MANGGA

PANCIT GUISADO

PANCIT PALABOK/PANCIT LUGLUG

PANCIT SOTANGHON WITH BEEF AND BROCCOLI

CUBAN-STYLE RICE ARROZ A LA CUBANA

COCONUT NOODLES WITH MUSHROOMS AND TOFU PANCIT BUTONG

SAFFRON RICE WITH CHINESE SAUSAGE

SPICY RICE WITH CHICKEN AND PEPPERS BRINGHE