RICE AND NOODLE DISHES

For centuries throughout the Philippines one crop has remained the most consequential in sustaining life, providing millions of Filipinos their most common and basic food—rice. It is the main food eaten at least three times a day with accompanying dishes such as fish, meats, soups, and vegetables playing supporting roles as condiments. With rice so intricately woven into the fabric of Filipino life, how do the dietary necessities of a predominantly rural developing country like the Philippines translate on American soil where a low-carb, high-protein, meat-focused regimen is becoming the dietary standard?

The answer lies on the table. Necessity once dictated that rice held its dominant position at the center of the table around which small offerings of meat, fish, soups, or vegetables were placed as “seasonings.” For many Filipinos, beef, pork, and poultry are not necessarily everyday fare but special occasion indulgences reserved for holidays, fiestas, and patron saint celebrations. However, because America’s land is that of immeasurable bounty providing a seemingly endless variety of accessible, affordable, and convenient protein sources that perhaps are unavailable in the homeland, necessity can quietly (and I’m sure happily) take a backseat to tradition. Steamed white rice is certainly still served at every Filipino meal, even if Filipino fare is not being served. But for many Filipino-Americans, the Occidental dinner template of protein, vegetable, and starch applies. Rice has a permanently reserved spot on the table, but as an accompaniment to the entrée instead of as the main course.

There are literally thousands of varieties of rice. Filipinos are partial to long-grain indica rice as their everyday rice, it being the variety predominantly grown in the fields of the Philippines. These would include traditional varieties such as milagrosa and wagwag, as well as high-yielding modern varieties called IR–64 and IR–36. Thai Jasmine rice, another popular variety, is a long-grain rice that has a floral aroma and cooks to a soft chewy texture that, unlike many long-grain varieties, retains a slight stickiness that Asians love in their rice. Medium-grain calrose rice is also an excellent table rice in that it cooks plump, fluffy, and sticky. Pilafs don’t usually find a place on the Filipino table and instant rice is rarely a welcomed guest in a Filipino house.

Everyday rice is simple—steamed or boiled without coloring or flavoring. Since plain rice accompanies most meals, you’ll find a recipe for it in the “Basics” chapter. Some subtle flavor variations on steamed rice are included in this chapter and certainly worth trying, especially since it requires the addition of only one, or perhaps two ingredients. Garlicky Sinangag, heady, aromatic, and addictive as popcorn, is often combined with other foods to make a complete meal. Fried rice is best made with day-old rice (long-grain Jasmine or Milagrosa rice works marvelously) that has lost its freshly cooked stickiness. I have also included a couple of recipes using short-grain, sweet (also called glutinous) rice that we call malagkit. Malagkit has a sticky texture similar to Italian risotto that makes delectable steamed desserts, although it is equally versatile in the savory rice dishes flavored with meats and seafood that I’ve featured here.

Noodles are another Filipino staple, although they are not burdened with the responsibility that rice carries in completing a meal. Generally termed pancit, noodles came into the Philippines as they did in the rest of the world, by way of the Chinese. Panciterias usually refer to Chinese restaurants that not only serve a variety of pancit but Chinese specialties as well. Pancit dishes are easily distinguished by the type of noodle used, a distinction made by attaching the noodle variety after the word pancit as demonstrated in the recipe titles. And what a variety of noodles there are! Noodle choices may include miki, mami, bihon, luglug, sotanghon, Canton, and more. A helpful noodle guide is listed in “The Grocery Store” so that you can confidently navigate through the sea of choices. The cooking technique behind pancit is roughly the same in each recipe, so do try several recipes. Certain noodles and flavorings make significant differences in the dish, making each pancit entirely unique.


BLACK AND WHITE RICE WITH SEAFOOD PAELLA PIRURUTONG A LA FILIPINA

This dish is hardly a traditional paella, by any Spanish standard. In fact, any self-respecting Spanish cook would no doubt frown at the elements that stray from the motherland favorite: black rice (pirurutong), precooked white rice, fish sauce, coconut milk, no saffron! This arroz doesn’t strive to be paella in any respect other than in the cooking method, which so differs from the plain steamed rice characteristic of the Islands. Imbued with Filipino flavors and piled high with succulent seafood, this paella-style dish is irrefutably delicious and rewarding. Using day-old cooked rice may seem like a shortcut to the traditional paella-method of sautéing raw rice in oil and cooking it slowly in broth with meats or seafood. However, as with many foreign dishes introduced by the Spaniards, Filipinos have tweaked traditional recipes to suit their resources and palates. The texture of fully cooked steamed rice is preferable to the European al dente standard. Because this recipe calls for day-old cooked rice, this paella is actually quick enough to make during the week for an impressive and satisfying one-pan meal.

Serves 6

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 to 8 large sea scallops (approximately ¼ lb/125 g)

½ lb (225 g) shrimp, peeled and deveined

¼ lb (125 g) squid, cleaned (see page 68), and sliced into rings

1 yellow onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 cup (200 g) cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

¼ lb (125 g) chorizo de Bilbao, sliced

4 cups (725 g) cooked day-old long-grain rice (see Steamed Rice recipe, page 21)

1 cup (200 g) cooked black rice (use Thai black sticky rice or Chinese forbidden black rice; follow cooking directions on package)

1 cup (125 g) frozen or fresh peas

2 cups (500 ml) Shrimp or Fish Stock (see page 14)

½ cup (125 ml) coconut milk

2 tablespoons fish sauce

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 lb (450 g) black mussels, cleaned

Heat the oil in a 12 to14-inch (30 to 35-cm) paella pan or sauté pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot add the scallops to the pan. Sear each side for 2 to 3 minutes, until well browned. Remove from the pan to a plate. Add the shrimp to the pan; cook and stir for 3 to 4 minutes until opaque orange and nearly cooked through. Remove to the same plate as the scallops and set aside. Add the squid to the pan and cook for 2 to 3 minutes until opaque. Set aside on the same plate with the scallops and shrimp.

Stir the onion, garlic, and tomatoes into the pan. Cook for 1 minute until the onion is translucent. Add the chorizo de Bilbao to the pan; cook and stir for 2 minutes. Add the cooked white rice, cooked black rice, peas, shrimp stock, coconut milk, fish sauce, and pepper to the pan. Stir together. Return the scallops, shrimp, and squid to the pan. Arrange the mussels over the rice and loosely cover the pan with a fitted cover or aluminum foil, allowing the steam to escape. Simmer 5 to 6 minutes until the mussels open and the rice absorbs much of the liquid. The rice will appear wet but will continue to absorb liquid as it cools. Serve immediately.


GARLIC FRIED RICE SINANGAG

Not to be confused with sinigang, or sour soup (page 48), sinangag (shown opposite) is a simple yet satisfying garlic fried rice. Often served as a breakfast staple, sinangag makes good use of day-old rice that is past its prime having lost its fresh-cooked stickiness. When marinated meat (tapa) is paired with sinangag and a sunny-side up egg (itlog), the trio is a classic breakfast combination that has morphed into tapsilog in Filipino vernacular. Longsilog replaces tapa with longaniza (sausage). Tocilog uses tocino (sweetened pork) and bangsilog, bangus (milkfish). Then there are the American flavors of baconsilog and cornedbeefsilog, inevitable additions to the Filipino-American breakfast. This sinangag recipe embraces the basic flavors of garlic and rice without distraction from common additions of soy sauce, fish sauce, ginger, scallions, or shallots. Using long-grain rice is an important factor in achieving a fried rice that is perfectly fluffy and separated. Medium and short-grain rice tends to be moist, even after a day or two, which leads to sticky clumps of fried rice.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 small cloves garlic, chopped

4 cups (725 ml) cooked day-old long-grain rice (see Steamed Rice recipe, page 21)

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a 10 to 12-inch (25 to 30-cm) nonstick skillet or wok over medium-low heat. Add the garlic, cooking and stirring until lightly toasted to a golden brown. Add the rice and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until each grain is heated through and lightly fried. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle the rice onto a platter and serve hot.

Variation: Salmon and Garlic Fried Rice. Leftover salmon makes a terrific addition to the classic garlic fried rice. If you’re using canned salmon, completely drain any canning liquid before using. After toasting the garlic in the oil, add 1½ cups (175 g) cooked flaked salmon to the skillet and sauté for 1 minute. Add the rice and cook until warmed through and lightly fried. Season with salt and pepper.


FRAGRANT RICE WITH GREEN MANGO SINANGAG NGA MAY MANGGA

The Filipino palate is not shy when it comes to strong flavors, and often rice is the perfect neutral backdrop with which to enjoy more assertive native ingredients. Pungent shrimp paste and tart green mango, for example, are duly revered in their respective roles as seasonings for other dishes but also enjoyed paired together as a common snack. Add fried rice and toasted garlic to the mix and plain sinangag gets a dramatic makeover. Fresh chives are my herb of choice, providing just a hint of flavor. But feel free to go for the gusto with more fragrant herbs such as fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), mint, oregano, or basil. (See photograph, page 21.)

Serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 green onions (scallions), finely chopped

1 cup (175 g) peeled green mango, cut into ½-in (1-cm) cubes

1 teaspoon shrimp paste

4 cups (725 g) cooked day-old long-grain rice (see Steamed Rice recipe, page 21)

¼ cup (10 g) chopped chives

Heat the olive oil and sesame oil together in a 10-inch (25-cm) sauté pan over medium-high heat.

Add the garlic, green onions (scallions), and green mango; cook and stir for 2 minutes until the garlic is lightly toasted. Add the shrimp paste and cook another 30 seconds. Add the rice and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes until heated through and well mixed with the seasonings. Stir in the chives and spoon onto a serving platter.


PANCIT GUISADO

The Chinese are largely responsible for the wide range of Filipino noodle dishes that are collectively termed pancit. A national staple offered in the most modest food stall to the refined dine-in establishment, pancit dishes are almost as essential as rice. Often distinguished by the type of noodle used, pancit bihon (rice stick noodles), pancit miki (thin, round egg noodles), pancit sotanghon (mung bean thread noodles), or pancit mami (flat, wide egg noodles) are among the many dishes that Filipinos have imbued with their own style and flavor. Guisado means “stewed”—a sort of catchall term for pancits that don’t fit into any of the classic categories. It’s an apt name for this pancit recipe since we’re using a combination of mung bean thread noodles and fresh, egg noodles that resemble homemade angel hair pasta but without the semolina. Dried Canton noodles are a fine backup although the flavor and texture of the noodles will differ slightly. Don’t be alarmed by the number of ingredients in this and other pancit recipes, which may seem a little daunting, especially with all of the slicing, dicing, and shredding inevitably required. Once you’ve gathered and prepared your ingredients, the actual cooking time is very short.

Serves 6

3 to 4 dried shiitake mushrooms

½ cup (125 ml) rice wine

½ cup (125 ml) hot water

2 oz (50 g) dried mung bean thread noodles, approximately 2 bundles

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, chopped

½ teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

¼ lb (125 g) Chinese sausage or chorizo de Bilbao, diced

¼ lb (125 g) chicken breast, diced

3 teaspoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

2 cups (500 ml) Chicken Stock (see page 15)

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 oz (225 g) fresh thin, round egg noodles

1 carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks

1 stalk celery, thinly sliced

2 cups (175 g) finely shredded Napa cabbage

1 green onion (scallion), sliced

Place dried shiitake mushrooms in a bowl with rice wine and hot water. Soak mushrooms 15 to 20 minutes until softened. Remove mushrooms from bowl, reserving the soaking liquid. Remove and discard woody stems and slice mushroom caps thinly. Set aside.

Soak mung bean thread noodles in warm water for 5 minutes until softened. Drain water and set noodles aside.

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sauté onion, garlic, and ginger for 1 minute, making sure that the garlic does not burn. Add sausage and chicken. Continue sautéing another 4 to 5 minutes, until chicken turns opaque. Add soy, oyster sauce, chicken stock, reconstituted mushrooms, mushroom soaking liquid, and black pepper. Reduce heat to a low simmer for 5 minutes until chicken is cooked through. Add the egg noodles and bean thread noodles, making sure that they are completely submerged in the cooking liquid. Simmer 5 to 7 minutes until noodles are tender. Add carrots, celery, and Napa cabbage. Toss all ingredients together so that they are well combined. Garnish with sliced green onion (scallion).


PANCIT PALABOK/PANCIT LUGLUG

Palabok is distinguished from other pancit by the orange-tinged sauce and the impressive array of garnishes used to season and adorn the noodles. Toasted garlic, pork crackling, smoked fish flakes (tinapa), and hard-boiled eggs are among the signature toppings that lend high-impact flavor and texture to this dish. The eye-catching, rust-colored sauce is a tantalizing shrimp sauce made from annatto-infused shrimp juice. Bihon noodles (also called rice stick noodles) are the canvas underlying the colorful palabok sauce. Made from either cornstarch or a blend of cornstarch and rice flour, bihon are round angel hair noodles that have something of a slippery texture, which splendidly offsets the meaty trimmings.

Admittedly, in this recipe the ingredients list is unique and the procedural steps are more than a few. But you’ll save valuable time in assembling the dish by purchasing a good quality shrimp or fish stock for your sauce and having your garnishes prepared in advance.

Pancit Luglug is palabok’s fraternal twin, sharing the same sauce and garnishes. The difference lies in the noodle. Luglug also uses a cornstarch noodle but one that is thicker than bihon.

Serves 4

Sauce

1 lb (450 g) shell-on shrimp

1 tablespoon annatto seeds

2½ cups (625 ml) shrimp juice or Shrimp Stock (see page 14)

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon fish sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 oz (225 g) dried bihon, cornstarch stick noodles

¼ cup (10 g) chopped fresh corriander leaves (cilantro)

Topping

1 lb (450 g) cooked peeled shrimp, from palabok sauce

¼ lb (125 g) diced chicharon, pork crackling

¼ cup (50 g) flaked tinapa, smoked fish

1 tablespoon Toasted Garlic (see page 17)

2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced into rounds

4 to 5 calamansi, halved (substitute 1 lime, sliced into wedges)

Make the shrimp juice: Place the shrimp in a single layer on a baking sheet and broil for 10 to 12 minutes, turning the shrimp over halfway through cooking. Cool the shrimp to the touch and peel. Reserve the cooked shrimp for the topping. Place the shells in a food processor with the annatto seeds and 2 cups (500 ml) water; process until finely mashed. Pour the shell mixture into a fine strainer and press to extract the shrimp juice. Discard the shells and seeds. If you are using premade shrimp stock instead of shrimp shells, soak the annatto seeds in 2 cups (500 ml) shrimp broth for 30 minutes to infuse the color and flavor. Strain and reserve the broth, discarding the seeds.

Make the sauce: Pour 2 cups shrimp juice into a large sauté pan (3 to 4 quart/liter) and simmer over low heat. Mix together the remaining ½ cup (125 ml) juice (or stock) in a cup with the flour, soy sauce, fish sauce, and pepper, stirring until smooth. Add the flour mixture to the pan and stir to combine. Simmer for 5 minutes until thickened. Set aside but keep warm.

Prepare the noodles: For Pancit Palabok, use bihon noodles; for Pancit Luglug, use luglug noodles. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles to the pot, swirling them so that they do not stick together. After 2 to 3 minutes, taste a noodle for doneness; it should be tender but not mushy. Drain the noodles and place in a serving dish. Pour the sauce over the noodles and sprinkle with the chopped cilantro; toss well to combine.

Prepare the tinapa: Simply panfry the tinapa whole in a scant tablespoon of oil until cooked through or place the fish under the broiler for 7 to 8 minutes per side. You can also cook the fish by poaching it in water to remove a little of the salt and smokiness that some might find overpowering. Flake the fillets from the bones for use on your pancit.

Garnish the pancit: Arrange the shrimp over the noodles. Sprinkle the pork crackling, flaked tinapa, and toasted garlic evenly over the noodles. Lay the slices of egg around the edges of the serving dish. Serve with halved calamansi or wedges of lime.

A Note on Substitutions

The garnishes used in this recipe are only a few of the traditional toppings suggested for pancit palabok. If you have trouble finding tinapa or fresh chicharon, don’t feel like your pancit will be in any way compromised. Simply omit the ingredients you don’t have and use comparable substitutes. Cooked sliced pork, sautéed Chinese sausage, or prepackaged pork sung (cooked, dried, shredded pork) are fine replacements for chicharon, and dried bonito flakes or dried shrimp and a sprinkle of smoked paprika are excellent substitutes for tinapa. Sliced green onions (scallions), roasted peanuts, fried tofu, and kinchay (Chinese celery) are also fair game when decorating your pancit palabok.


PANCIT SOTANGHON WITH BEEF AND BROCCOLI

Of the dozens of noodles on the market, bean thread noodles, or sotanghon, are one of my favorites. They’re incredibly versatile, appearing in soups, stuffed in a spring roll, stewed in a pancit with meats or vegetables, quickly stir-fried, even deep-fried as a crispy garnish. Made from the starch of mung beans, these quick-cooking cellophane noodles (also called bean thread vermicelli) can be cooked directly in your pot of broth, an important feature when fast meals are as much a priority as healthy delicious ones. To speed their cooking time even more, and to make them easier to handle, I soften the noodles in a bowl of hot water for five minutes. The rest of your ingredients should be nearly cooked by the time you add your noodles since, once softened, they need only a couple of minutes to reach full doneness.

Serves 4

7 oz (200 g), approximately

4 bundles, dried mung bean thread noodles

4 cups (1 liter) hot tap water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

¾ lb (350 g) beef sirloin, thinly sliced

¼ cup (50 ml) rice wine

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sambal ulek or dried red pepper flakes

2 cups (500 ml) Beef Stock (see page 14)

½ lb (225 g) broccoli florets

1 green onion (scallion), chopped

Place the bean thread noodles in a large bowl and cover with hot water for 5 minutes until the noodles are soft. Drain the water and set the noodles aside. Often the noodle bundles are tied with a barely noticeable piece of white string. Be sure to remove that string before soaking the noodles.

Heat the olive oil in a large (3 to 4-quart/liter) skillet or wok over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the onion, garlic, and ginger. Stir-fry for 30 seconds being careful not to burn the garlic. Add the beef to the pan and stir-fry for another 2 minutes.

Deglaze the pan with the rice wine. Season with the fish sauce, soy sauce, sambal ulek, and beef stock. Bring the broth to a simmer. Add the broccoli and cover. Simmer for 5 minutes until the broccoli is almost tender. Remove the cover and add the noodles to the pan so that they are completely submerged in the broth. Cook the noodles for another 3 to 4 minutes, mixing them well into the broth. Remove from the heat and garnish with the chopped green onion (scallion).


CUBAN-STYLE RICE ARROZ A LA CUBANA

Depending on whom you ask, the daily restaurant ritual of serving a family-style meal to the staff may be considered either an occupational benefit or bane. I’ve always considered the staff meal an essential component of operations, offering the staff nourishment and respite before the nonstop hustle of dinner service. But it often poses challenges for the line cooks who are faced with what to make in the least amount of time using inexpensive ingredients. Hmm, sound familiar? It’s America’s nightly dinner dilemma.This addictive rice dish was an easy answer—quick, cheap, and a convenient way to use rice, meat, and vegetable leftovers. Ground beef or pork makes a fresh picadillo but I’ve made this arroz using leftover shredded pork with mouthwatering results. Sweet plantains and fried eggs are the signature toppers that make it undeniably satisfying.

Serves 4

6 tablespoons oil

1 large ripe plantain (approximately 10 oz/280 g), peeled and sliced into ½-in (1-cm)-thick rounds

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 small tomato, diced

1 lb (450 g) ground beef or pork

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ cup (50 g) chopped green olives

1½ teaspoons soy sauce

½ cup (125 ml) Chicken Stock (see page 15)

1 potato, cut into ½-in (1-cm) cubes

8 oz (225 g) frozen or fresh peas

3 cups (550 g) cooked long-grain white rice (see page 21)

4 eggs, cooked over easy

Heat 5 tablespoons of the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Fry the plantain in the hot oil or 3 to 4 minutes per side until the plantain becomes golden brown. Dry on paper towels. Set aside.

Add the remaining tablespoon oil to the skillet and sauté the onion, garlic, and tomato for 2 minutes until tomato becomes tender. Add the ground meat and cook for 7 to 9 minutes to render off the fat. Pour off the excess fat into a bowl and discard.

Add the cinnamon, oregano, olives, soy sauce, and chicken stock. Reduce the heat to a low simmer. Add the potato and peas. Cook for 8 to10 minutes until the meat is fully cooked and the potato is tender. Stir in rice and cook until warmed through. Spoon the rice mixture on a plate and serve with plantain rounds and over-easy eggs.


COCONUT NOODLES WITH MUSHROOMS AND TOFU PANCIT BUTONG

With faux noodles fashioned from tender slices of young coconut meat, pancit butong may seem like a contrived restaurant concoction instead of a native Filipino specialty. It is, in fact, a traditional pancit that just so happens to deviate from the standard template. Starch-based noodles and meats are replaced by coconut noodles and tofu for a vegetarian pancit that is characteristically Filipino and deliciously unique. Thinly shaved buko, or young coconut meat, is the secret to the “noodle.” You’ll find buko canned in tender chunks that are easily cut into matchsticks or shaved with a peeler for paper-thin slices. For easy convenience, buko also comes pre-cut in frozen blocks. A roasted mushroom medley of your favorite wild mushrooms is the vegetable paradigm for robust flavor and soulful satisfaction. Toasted garlic (page 17) sprinkled atop the dish is guaranteed to lend its alluring aroma and unapologetic flavor.

Serves 4

Roasted Mushrooms

½ lb (225 g) assorted mushrooms (oyster, shiitake, chanterelle, or enoki)

3 tablespoons melted butter

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Pancit

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 oz (125 g) extra-firm tofu, diced into ½-in (1 -cm) cubes

1 green onion (scallion), sliced

1 red Thai chile, chopped

¼ cup (50 ml) rice wine

¼ cup (50 ml) Vegetable Stock (see page 15)

2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce

3 cups (675 ml) young coconut meat cut into matchsticks

1 teaspoon chopped oregano

3 calamansi, halved

Roast the mushrooms: Position the oven rack within 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) of the broiler. Arrange the mushrooms on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Pour the melted butter over the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Broil the mushrooms for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to evenly roast the mushrooms. They should be tender and nicely browned. Remove the mushrooms from the oven and set aside.

Make the pancit: Heat the olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the diced tofu and brown on all sides. Add the green onion (scallion) and chile and cook for 30 seconds. Deglaze the pan with the rice wine. Add the vegetable stock, mushroom soy sauce, coconut meat, and roasted mushrooms. Cover and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes until heated through. Remove the cover and stir in the oregano. Spoon the pancit into bowls and garnish with the calamansi.


SAFFRON RICE WITH CHINESE SAUSAGE

The flavors of two continents converge in this simple yet satisfying dish with Spanish saffron and Chinese sausage (shown opposite). As the superstar of the spice world, saffron earns its reputation by imparting its honey gold color and alluring flavor with just a few precious strands. Paired with Chinese lop chong, with its compelling mixture of smoke, spice, and sweetness, the collaboration of ingredients is truly rewarding.

Serves 4

1 teaspoon olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 shallot, chopped

4 oz (125 g) Chinese sausage, sliced

3 to 4 saffron strands

2 cups (500 ml) Chicken Stock (see page 15)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Dash of freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (200 g) uncooked jasmine rice or any long-grain rice

Heat the olive oil in a medium pot (2 to 3 quarts/liters) over medium heat. Add the garlic, shallot, and Chinese sausage. Cook and stir for 1 minute, being careful not to burn the garlic. Add the saffron, chicken broth, soy sauce, and pepper. Simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the rice and stir to combine. Cover the pot and reduce the heat to the lowest setting. Steam the rice for 20 to 25 minutes until tender.


SPICY RICE WITH CHICKEN AND PEPPERS BRINGHE

Bringhe is the classic combination of chicken and rice made special by a persuasive seasoning paste that infuses each grain of rice with the vivid flavors of ginger, yellow curry, and chiles. Glutinous rice, or malagkit, teams up with coconut milk for a smooth creamy dish that is reminiscent of Italian risotto but with all the flavors of Southeast Asia. If you’ve never worked with glutinous rice, any mystery it holds is easily overcome. It is cooked in a 1½-to-1 liquid-to-rice ratio and when cooked is delicately sticky. Although it’s not necessary, I suggest soaking the grains in water for at least one hour to promote faster, even cooking.

Serves 4

Seasoning Paste

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 teaspoon peeled and chopped fresh ginger

1 green onion (scallion), chopped

1 small green or red Thai chile (sili labuyo), stem removed

1 teaspoon yellow curry powder

1 teaspoon shrimp paste (bagoong alamang)

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

2 tablespoons olive oil

Rice

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 lb (450 g) skinless chicken breast, cut into ½-in (13-mm) cubes

2 cups (400 g) uncooked glutinous rice (malagkit), soaked in 4 cups (1 liter) water for 1 hour and drained

2 cups (500 ml) Chicken Stock (see page 15)

1 cup (250 ml) coconut milk

1 large banana leaf, rinsed and cut to fit your skillet or sauté pan

1 red bell pepper, deseeded and cut into 1-in (2½-cm) cubes

Make the seasoning paste: Combine the garlic, ginger, green onion (scallion), chile, curry powder, shrimp paste, fish sauce, sugar, and olive oil in a blender or food processor. Blend until well mashed into a paste. Set aside.

Make the rice: Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large (3 to 4-quart/liter) skillet or sauté pan. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the seasoning paste. Cook and stir for 1 minute. Add the chicken and cook for 5 minutes. Add the rice, chicken broth, and coconut milk. Stir to blend well. Lower the heat and set the banana leaf on top of the rice. Place a cover over the skillet and simmer the rice for 15 minutes. Remove the cover and banana leaf and add the bell pepper to the rice. Return the banana leaf and cover and simmer for another 10 to 15 minutes until the rice is tender and the chicken is cooked through. Serve immediately.


CHICKEN POTPIE PASTEL NGA MANOK

CHICKEN IN PEANUT SAUCE PIPIÁN

FRIED CHICKEN PRITONG MANOK

CHICKEN STEW WITH ROASTED PEPPERS AND POTATOES APRITADA NGA MANOK

BRAISED TURKEY WITH STUFFING PAKSIW NGA PABO

DUCK ADOBO WITH PINEAPPLE AND DATES ADOBONG PATO A LA MONJA

CITRUS-GINGER CHICKEN INASAL MANOK

STUFFED QUAIL RELLENONG PUGO