Too young geologically to have many great beaches, the Big Island instead has more colorful ones: brand-new black-sand beaches, salt-and-pepper beaches, and even a green-sand beach. If you know where to look, you’ll also find some gorgeous pockets of golden sand off the main roads here and there, plus a few longer stretches, often hidden from view by either acres of lava or high-end resorts. Thankfully, by law all beaches are public, so even the toniest hotel must provide access (including free parking) to its sandy shores. Note: Never leave valuables in your trunk, particularly in remote areas, and always respect the privacy of residents with homes on the beach. For details on shoreline access around the island, see the maps and descriptions at www.hawaiicounty.gov/pl-shoreline-access-big-island. For more information on state beach parks, visit www.hawaiistateparks.org.
You’ll find relevant sites on the “Big Island” map on p. 29.
North Kona
Kahaluu Beach 
The most popular beach on the Kona Coast has reef-protected lagoons and county park facilities that attract more than 400,000 people a year, making it less attractive than in years past. Coconut trees line a narrow salt-and-pepper-sand shore that gently slopes to turquoise pools, home to schools of brilliantly colored tropical. In summer, it’s an ideal spot for children and beginning snorkelers; the water is so shallow you can just stand up if you feel uncomfortable—but please, not on the living coral, which can take years to recover. In winter, there’s a rip current when the high surf rolls in; look for any lifeguard warnings. Kahaluu isn’t the biggest beach on the island, but it’s one of the best equipped, with off-road parking, beach-gear rentals, a covered pavilion, restrooms, barbecue pits, and a food concession. It gets crowded, so come early to stake out a spot. If you have to park on Alii Drive, be sure to poke your head into tiny, blue-roofed St. Peter’s by the Sea, a Catholic chapel next to an old lava rock heiau where surfers once prayed for waves.
Formerly known as Kona Coast State Park, this beach park is known for its brilliant white sand offsetting even more brilliant turquoise water. With several sandy bays and coves well-hidden from the highway, the park has two official entrances. About 4½ miles north of the airport off Highway19 (across from West Hawaii Veterans Cemetery) is the turnoff for Maniniowali Beach, better known as Kua Bay. A thankfully paved road crosses acres of craggy lava, leading to the parking lot and a short, paved walkway to an even shorter, sandy scramble down a few rocks to the beach. It has restrooms and showers, but absolutely no shade or drinking water. Locals flock here to sunbathe, swim, bodyboard, and bodysurf, especially on weekends, so go during the week, and in mornings, when it’s cooler. If you have a 4WD vehicle, you can take the marked turnoff 212 miles north of the airport off Highway 19 and drive 1½ bumpy miles over a rough lava road to the parking area for sandy Mahaiula Beach, reached by another short trail. Sloping more steeply than Kua Bay, this sandy beach has stronger currents than Kua Bay, although if you’re fit you can still swim or snorkel in calm conditions. You can also just laze under the shade—you’re likely to see a snoozing green sea turtle or two. The park is open 9am to 7pm daily.
Kekaha Kai State Park.
Kiholo State Park Reserve 
To give yourself a preview of why to come here, pull over at the marked Scenic Overlook on Highway 19 north of Kekaha Kai State Park, between mile markers 82 and 83. You’ll see a shimmering pale blue lagoon, created by the remains of an ancient fish pond, and the bright cerulean Kiholo Bay, jewels in a crown of black lava. Now take the unmarked lava-gravel road (much smoother than Kekaha Kai’s road to Mahaiula Beach) just south of the overlook and drive carefully to the end, taking the right fork for one of two parking areas, both a short walk from the shore (and both with portable toilets). The “beach” here is black sand, lava pebbles, and coral, but it’s fine for sunbathing or spotting dolphins and seasonal humpback whales. Keep your sturdy-soled shoes on, though, because you’ll want to keep walking north to Keanalele (also called “Queen’s Bath”), a collapsed lava tube found amid kiawe trees with steps leading into its fresh water, great for a cooling dip. Continue on past several mansions to the turquoise waters of the former fishpond, cut off by a lava flow, and the darker bay, clouded by freshwater springs. Green sea turtles love this area—as do scampering wild goats. The park opens at 7am daily year-round, with the access gate off the highway locked promptly at 7pm April to Labor Day (early Sept), and then at 6pm through March 31. Portable toilets are the only facilities.
Kohanaiki Beach
Hidden behind the Kohanaiki golf course development, 2 miles north of the main entrance to Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park off Highway 19, the 1½ miles of shoreline here include anchialine ponds, white-sand beaches, and a reef- and rock-lined bay that’s home to a popular surf break called Pine Trees. Paddlers, snorkelers, and fishermen also flock to the rugged coastline, which officially became a county park in 2013. The new status means improved access and parking, restrooms, showers, water fountain, campsites, and a halau (covered pavilion) for cultural practices; there’s also a well-marked petroglyph. Since you can’t turn left from northbound Hwy. 19, directions are easiest from the airport: Head 2.2 miles south on Hwy. 19 to the Kohanaiki entrance on the right (past mile marker 95); turn right at the first fork and follow nearly 1 mile to the first parking lot for beach access; facilities and more parking are farther south along the one-lane paved road, but you can also explore the shore to the left. It’s open daily from 5:30am to 9pm (no camping Tues–Wed).
Laaloa Beach (White Sands/Magic Sands Beach)
Don’t blink as you cruise Alii Drive, or you’ll miss Laaloa, often called White Sands, Magic Sands, or Disappearing Beach. That’s because the sand at this small pocket beach, about 4½ miles south of Kailua-Kona’s historic center, does occasionally vanish, especially at high tide or during storms. On calm summer days, you can swim here, next to bodyboarders and bodysurfers taking advantage of the gentle shorebreak; you can also snorkel in a little rocky cove just to the south. In winter, though, a dangerous rip develops and waves swell, attracting expert surfers and spectators; stay out of the water then, but enjoy the gawking. The palm-tree-lined county beach park includes restrooms, showers, lifeguard station, and a small parking lot.
Kohanaiki Beach.
Old Kona Airport Park 
Yes, this used to be the airport for the Kona side of the island—hence the copious parking on the former runway, at the end of Kuakini Highway, about a half-mile north of Palani Road in Kailua-Kona. Now it’s a park jointly managed by the county and state, which in 1992 designated its waters a marine life conservation district. It’s easy to get distracted by all the other free amenities: two Olympic-size pools in the Kona Community Aquatic Center ( 808/327-3500), a gym, tennis courts, ball fields. Yet there’s a mile of sandy beach here, fronting tidepools perfect for families with small children, and Pawai Bay, whose reefs draw turtles and rays, and thus snorkelers and divers. The beach area also has covered picnic tables and grills, restrooms, and showers.
South Kona
Hookena Beach Park
A community group known as Friends of Hookena (www.hookena.org) has taken responsibility for upkeep and concessions at this secluded, taupe-colored sandy beach (technically a county park) since 2007. You can rent kayaks and snorkel gear to explore Kauhako Bay’s populous reefs (avoid during high surf), or beach and camping gear to enjoy the view—sometimes including wild spinner dolphins—from the shore. Reservations for gear and campgrounds can be made online; the welcome concession stand at this remote spot even accepts credit cards. Facilities include showers, restrooms, water fountains, picnic tables, pavilions, and parking. From Kailua-Kona, take Highway 11 22 miles south to the Hookena Beach Road exit just past Hookena Elementary School, between mile markers 101 and 102. Follow it downhill 2 miles to the end, and turn left on the one-lane road to the parking area.
The Kohala Coast
Anaehoomalu Bay
The Big Island makes up for its dearth of beaches with a few spectacular ones, like Anaehoomalu, or A-Bay, as many call it. This popular gold-sand beach, fringed by a grove of palms and backed by royal fishponds still full of mullet, is one of Hawaii’s most beautiful. It fronts the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa and is enjoyed by guests and locals alike (it’s busier in summer, but doesn’t ever get truly crowded). The beach slopes gently from shallow to deep water; swimming, snorkeling, diving, kayaking, and windsurfing are all excellent here. At the northern edge of the bay, snorkelers and divers can watch endangered green sea turtles line up and wait their turn to have small fish clean them. Equipment rental and snorkeling, scuba, and windsurfing instruction are available at the north end of the beach. Facilities include restrooms, showers, picnic tables, and plenty of parking; look for access signs off Waikoloa Beach Road. No lifeguards.
Hapuna Beach
Just off Queen Kaahumanu Highway, below the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, lies this crescent of gold sand—a half-mile long and up to 200 feet wide. In summer, when the beach is widest, the ocean calmest, and the crowds biggest, this is a terrific place for swimming, bodysurfing, and snorkeling. But beware of Hapuna in winter, when its thundering waves and strong rip currents should only be plied by local experts. Facilities at Hapuna Beach, part of the Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area, include A-frame cabins (for camping by permit), picnic tables, restrooms, showers, water fountains, lifeguard station, and parking. You can also pick up the coastal Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail (p. 125) here to Spencer or Holoholokai beach parks to the north and south, respectively.
Kaunaoa Beach (Mauna Kea Beach)
Nearly everyone refers to this gold-sand beach at the foot of Mauna Kea Beach Hotel by its hotel nickname, but its real name is Hawaiian for “native dodder,” a lacy, yellow-orange vine that once thrived on the shore. A coconut grove sweeps around this golden crescent, where the water is calm and protected by two black-lava points. The sandy bottom slopes gently into the bay, which often fills with tropical fish, sea turtles, and manta rays, especially at night, when lights shine down from a viewing promontory. Swimming is excellent year-round, except in rare winter storms. Snorkelers prefer the rocky points, where fish thrive in the surge. Facilities include restrooms, showers, and public-access parking (go early). No lifeguards.
Spencer Park (Ohaiula Beach)
Virtually in the shadow of the massive Puukohola Heiau (p. 40) to the north, this is a great place to stop heading to or from the scenic and historic sites in North Kohala. The gently sloping, white-yellow sand beach is actually called Ohaiula, though most just call it “Spencer,” since it’s part of Samuel M. Spencer County Park. Protected by both a long reef and Kawaihae Harbor, the beach has relatively safe swimming year-round. Parking is plentiful, but it may fill up on weekends and holidays. From the intersection of highways 19 and 270, take Highway 270 a half-mile north to a left turn at the sign for the park and Puukohola Heiau, and follow to either of two parking areas at the end of the road. Facilities include picnic tables, restrooms, showers, grassy lawns, and shade trees; lifeguards are on duty weekends and holidays. Campsites at either end of the beach often serve the area’s homeless population. (It’s safe during daylight hours, but I’d avoid walking through the tents section.)
Spencer Beach.
Waialea Bay (Beach 69)
Once a hidden oasis, this light-golden sandy beach in Puako, between the Waikoloa Beach and Mauna Lani resorts, earned its nickname from the number on a former telephone pole off Old Puako Road, which signaled one of the public-access points. Still tucked behind private homes, it’s now a proper beach park, with a paved parking lot and trail to the beach, restrooms, and water fountains—but no lifeguards. The bay is generally calm in summer, good for swimming and snorkeling; waves can get big in winter, when surfers and bodyboarders tend to show up. From Kailua-Kona, take Highway 19 north to a left on Puako Road, then a right on Old Puako Road; the access road to the parking area is on your left, near telephone pole No. 71 (the nickname has not caught up with the times).
Hilo
Leleiwi Beach Park
This string of palm-fringed, black-lava tide pools fed by freshwater springs and rippled by gentle waves is a photographer’s delight—and the perfect place to take a plunge. In winter, big waves can splash these ponds, but the shallow pools are generally free of currents and ideal for families with children, especially in the protected inlets at the center of the park. Leleiwi often attracts endangered sea turtles, making this one of Hawaii’s most popular snorkeling spots. Open 7am to 7pm, the beach park is 4 miles east of town on Kalanianaole Avenue. Facilities include a lifeguard station (staffed weekends, holidays, and summer), picnic tables, pavilions, and parking. A second section of the park, known as Richardson’s Ocean Park, includes showers, restrooms, daily lifeguards, and the marine life exhibits of Richardson Ocean Center. Tip: If the area is crowded, check out the tide pools and/or small sandy coves in the five other beach parks along Kalanianaole Avenue between Banyan Drive and Leleiwi, especially the protected white sand lagoon of Carlsmith Beach Park , just a 2 minutes’ drive west. It has lifeguard service in summer and on weekends and holidays, as does the rocky but kid-friendly Onekahaha Beach Park , at the end of Onekahakaha Road off Kalanianaole Avenue, just under a mile west from Carlsmith.
Leleiwi Beach.
Kolekole Beach Park
Not a place to enter the rough water, this streamside park is nonetheless an unusually picturesque spot for a picnic. The lush greenery around you contrasts with the black rock beach, aquamarine sea, and white sea foam where waves meet Kolekole Stream, several miles below Akaka Falls (p. 47) in Honomu. You may see local kids jumping from a rope swing into the stream, which also has a small waterfall. Facilities include picnic pavilions, grills, restrooms, and parking. It’s open 6am to 11pm. From Hilo, take Highway 19 north 11 miles to a left turn on Old Mamalahoa Highway, and take the first (sharp) right, which descends a quarter-mile down to the park. No lifeguard.
Puna District
Most of the shoreline in this volcanically active area is craggy, with rough waters and dangerous currents, although the oceanfront thermal pond at Ahalanui (p. 66) and the Waiopae Tidepools (p. 65) are certainly worth seeking out. The still-forming black-sand beach near Kalapana, born in the 1990 lava flow that buried Kaimu Beach, is best viewed from the cliff above it; rogue waves may suddenly break much higher down on the beach. Note: Although nudism is common at secluded, unmarked Kehena Beach (p. 64), it is illegal.
Green Sand Beach (Papakolea Beach)
Hawaii’s famous green-sand beach is located at the base of Puu o Mahana, an old cinder cone spilling into the sea. It’s difficult to reach; the open bay is often rough; there are no facilities, fresh water, or shade; and howling winds scour the point. Nevertheless, each year the unusual olive-brown sands—made of crushed olivine, a semiprecious green mineral found in eruptive rocks and meteorites—attract thousands of oglers. From Hwy. 11, between mile markers 69 and 70, take South Point Road about 8 miles south to a left fork for the Green Sand Beach parking lot; be aware much of it is one lane. Driving from there to the top of the cinder cone is no longer permitted by the Department of Hawaiian Homelands, although enterprising locals now offer a round-trip shuttle for $10 to $20 (cash only); you can also do the windy, challenging hike along the remaining 2½ miles across unshaded dirt roads and lava rock (wear closed-toe shoes, sunglasses, and a hat, and bring lots of water). In either case, you’ll still need to clamber carefully down the steep eroded cinder cone to the sand. If the surf’s up, check out the beach from the cliff’s edge; if the water’s calm, you can go closer, but keep an eye on the ocean at all times (there are strong rip currents here).
Punaluu Beach
Green sea turtles love to bask on this remote, black-sand beach, beautifully framed by palm trees and easily photographed from the bluff above. The deep-blue waters can be choppy; swim only in very calm conditions, as there’s no lifeguard present. You’re welcome to admire the turtles, but at a respectful distance; the law against touching or harassing them is enforced here (if not by authorities, then by locals who also like to congregate in the park). Park facilities include camping, restrooms, showers, picnic tables, pavilions, water fountains, a concession stand, and parking. There are two access roads from Highway 11, at 7¾ and 8 miles northeast of Naalehu. The first, Ninole Loop Road, leads past the somewhat overgrown-looking Sea Mountain golf course to a turnoff for a paved parking lot by the bluff. The second access from Highway 11, Punaluu Road, has a turnoff for a smaller, unpaved parking area.
Green Sand Beach.
Watersports
Boat, Raft & Submarine Tours
The relatively calm waters of the Kona and Kohala coasts are home to inquisitive reef fish, frolicking spinner dolphins, tranquil green sea turtles, spiraling manta rays, and spouting whales and their calves in season (Dec–Mar). A wide variety of vessels offer sightseeing and snorkel/dive tours (gear provided). Cocktail and dinner cruises take advantage of the region’s predictably eye-popping sunsets. On the wild Puna side of the island, boat rides may pass lava flowing into the sea or coastal waterfalls. For fishing charters, see p. 112.
Atlantis Submarines 
If you have what it takes (namely, no claustrophobia), head 100 feet below the sea in a 65-foot submarine, with a large porthole for every passenger. During the 45 minutes underwater, the sub glides slowly through an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre coral reef in Kailua Bay, teeming with fish (including, unfortunately, invasive species such as goatfish and taape) and two shipwrecks encrusted in coral. You’ll take a 5-minute boat shuttle from Kailua Pier, across from the ticket office, to the air-conditioned submarine.
75-5669 Alii Dr. (across the street from Kailua Pier), Kailua-Kona. 800/548-6262. www.atlantisadventures.com/kona. Trips leave four times a day 10am–2:30pm (check-in 30 min. earlier). $115 age 13 and older, $48 under 13 (must be at least 3 ft. tall): $10 off online bookings.
Body Glove Cruises 
Body Glove’s Kanoa II, a 65-foot, solar-powered catamaran carrying up to 100 passengers, runs an environmentally friendly, 4½-hour snorkel/dive morning cruise, along with shorter lunch and dinner excursions for those who just want to enjoy the views, as well as seasonal whale-watching trips; all depart from Kailua Pier. In the morning, you’ll be greeted with fresh Kona coffee, fruit, and breakfast pastries before heading north to Pawai Bay, a marine preserve where you can snorkel, scuba dive, swim, or just hang out on the deck. Before chowing down on the deli lunch buffet, take the plunge off the boat’s 20-foot water slide or 15-foot-high diving board. The only thing you need to bring is a towel; all gear is provided, along with “reef safe” sunscreen. And if you don’t see dolphins, you can do a repeat cruise for free (the same is true if you don’t see whales on a whale-watching excursion). Dinner and lunch cruises feature a historian who points out significant sites on the 12 miles from Kailua Pier to Kealakekua Bay, where passengers feast on a buffet spread and enjoy live Hawaiian music by notable entertainer LT Smooth. All cruises are free for children 5 and under, and the boat is wheelchair accessible, including restrooms.
Kailua Pier, Kailua-Kona. www.bodyglovehawaii.com. 800/551-8911 or 808/326-7122. Snorkel cruises (Tues–Sat 8am, Sun 10am) $128 adults, $88 children 6–17; see website for additional scuba charges. Dinner cruise (Tues and Thurs–Sat 4pm) $118 adults, $88 children 6–17, free for children 5 and under. Lunch cruise (Wed 1pm) $98 adults, $78 children 6–17. Whale-watching cruises (Dec–Apr only; Tues and Thurs–Sun 1pm, Mon 2pm) $98 adults, $78 children 6–17.
Captain Dan McSweeney’s Whale Watch Learning Adventures 
Hawaii’s most impressive visitors—45-foot humpback whales—return to the islands’ warm waters, including those on the Big Island’s Kona side, each winter. Capt. Dan McSweeney, who founded the Wild Whale Research Foundation in 1979, has no problem finding them. During the 3-hour whale-watching tours, typically offered January through March, he drops a hydrophone (an underwater microphone) into the water so you can listen to their songs, and sometimes uses an underwater video camera to show you what’s going on. Cruises are aboard the Lady Ann, which has restrooms and a choice of sunny or shaded decks; cold drinks and snacks are provided. Trips depart from Honokohau Harbor, where parking is free and typically easy.
Honokohau Harbor, 74-380 Kealakehe Pkwy. (off Hwy. 19), Kailua-Kona. www.ilovewhales.com. 888/942-5376 or 808/322-0028. Departures 7 and 11am Mon–Tues and Thurs–Fri Jan–March. $110 adults, $99 children 11 and under who also weigh under 90 lb.
Captain Zodiac It’s a wild, 14-mile ride to Kealakekua Bay aboard one of Captain Zodiac’s 16-passenger, 24-foot rigid-hull inflatable rafts, or Zodiacs. There you’ll spend about an hour snorkeling in the bay, perhaps with spinner dolphins, and enjoy snacks and beverages at the site. The small size of the craft mean no restrooms, but it also means you can explore sea caves on this craggy coast. Four-hour snorkel trips take place twice daily, with morning and afternoon departures; the 5-hour midday tour ingeniously arrives at Kealakekua when most other boats have left, with extra time for a second snorkel site, seasonal whale-watching, or other experiences at the captain’s discretion, plus a deli lunch. Be prepared to get wet (that includes your camera). Warning: Pregnant women and those with bad backs should avoid this often-bumpy ride.
In Gentry’s Kona Marina, Honokohau Harbor, 74-425 Kealakehe Pkwy. (off Hwy. 19), Kailua-Kona. www.captainzodiac.com. 808/329-3199. 4-hr. snorkel cruise (Wed–Thurs and Sat–Sun 8am and 12:30pm) $110 adults, $84 children 4–12; 5-hr. snorkel cruise (Mon–Tues and Fri 9:45am) $125 adults, $94 children 4–12. Whale-watching cruises (Jan–Apr only; Tues and Thurs 9am) $84 adults, $59 children 4–12. Online booking discounts ($15 adults, $5–$10 children) available.
Snorkeling the Big Island seas.
Fair Wind Snorkeling & Diving Adven-tures I love Fair Wind, for several reasons, starting with its home in Keauhou Bay, 8 miles south of Kailua Pier and so that much closer to Kealakekua Bay, where its two very different but impressively equipped boats head for snorkel/dive tours:
Fair Wind IIWhen traveling with kids, I book a cruise on the Fair Wind II, a 60-foot catamaran that includes two 15-foot water slides, a high-dive jump, playpens, and child-friendly flotation devices with viewfinders, so even toddlers can peek at Kealakekua’s glorious sea life. Year-round, the Fair Wind II offers a 4½-hour morning snorkel cruise that includes breakfast and barbecue lunch; most of the year it also sails a 3½-hour afternoon snorkel cruise that provides snacks, which in summer becomes a deluxe 4½-hour excursion with barbecue dinner. Swimmers age 8 and up can also try SNUBA—kind of a beginner’s version of scuba—for an optional $69, with an in-water guide.
Hula KaiWhen traveling with teens or adults, I prefer the Hula Kai, the Fair Wind’s 55-foot foil-assist catamaran, open only to ages 7 and up. The boat provides a plusher experience (such as comfy seating with headrests) and, on its 5-hour morning snorkel cruise, a faster, smoother ride to two uncrowded Kona Coast snorkeling sites (usually neither is Kealakekua Bay), based on conditions. Guests have the option to try stand-up paddleboarding, SNUBA (see above), or the propulsive “Sea Rocket” ($25 per half-hour) to cover even more ground underwater. The Hula Kai also offers a fascinating night snorkel/dive with manta rays, a 1½-hour tour that doesn’t have to voyage far from Keauhou Bay to find them. At night these gentle giants (no stingers!) are lured closer to the ocean’s surface by the plankton that also rise there. Like other tour companies, Fair Wind uses dive lights to attract even more plankton; on the off chance you don’t get to see a manta ray, you’re welcome back another evening or an afternoon snorkel tour. It’s fairly balmy at night, but you’ll be tempted to stay in the water with the magnificent rays as long as you can, so wetsuits, warm soup, and hot drinks are provided to ward off chills. One-tank scuba dives are also available on all Hula Kai excursions ($31 without gear; $45 with); the manta night trip also charges $45 per “ride-along” (no snorkeling) passenger.
Note: Many of Fair Wind cruises sell out several days in advance, or as much as 2 to 3 weeks in peak season, so book ahead.
Keauhou Bay Pier, 78-7130 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona. www.fair-wind.com. 800/677-9461 or 808/322-2788. Fair Wind II morning snorkel cruise (daily 9am) $129 adults, $79 children 4–12, $29 children 3 and under. Afternoon snack snorkel cruise (daily 2pm fall–spring) $79 adults, $49 children 4–12, free for children 3 and under. Hula Kai deluxe morning snorkel/dive cruise (daily 9:30am) $149 age 7 and up (younger not permitted). Manta ray snorkel/dive (daily 7:15pm) $109 age 7 and up (younger not permitted). Parking is on opposite side of Keauhou Bay, at end of King Kamehameha III Rd.
Kamanu Charters The Kamanu, a sleek 38-foot sailing catamaran, provides a laidback sail-and-snorkel cruise from Honokohau Harbor to the marine preserve of Pawai Bay. The 3½-hour trip includes a tropical lunch (deli sandwiches, chips, fresh fruit, and drinks), snorkeling gear, and personalized instruction for first-time snorkelers; weather permitting, it sails at 9am and 1:30pm. It can hold up to 24 people but often has fewer, making it even more relaxed. Morning cruises include a swim with spinner dolphins; late-afternoon cruises include sunset cocktails and snorkeling with manta rays. Whale-watching is also offered in season. Kamanu Elua, a 31-foot, rigid-hull inflatable boat with seating, offers similar tours, but heads to Kealakekua Bay for snorkeling. Note: This Zodiac-style boat is not advised for children 7 or younger, pregnant women, or those with back or neck injuries.
Honokohau Harbor, 74-7380 Kealakehe Pkwy. (off Hwy. 19), Kailua-Kona. www.kamanu.com. 800/348-3091 or 808/329-2021. Snorkel cruises 9am daily, $95 adults, $50 children 12 and under; 1:30pm, $85 adults. Dolphin swim and snorkel (times/days vary) $139 all ages. Sunset manta ray snorkel (times/days vary) $95. Whale-watching Dec 15–Apr 15 (times/days vary) $75 adults, $65 children. Check website for online discounts.
Sea Quest With a head start from Keauhou Bay, Sea Quest’s four rigid-hull inflatable rafts offer three varieties of Kealakekua Bay snorkeling cruises and one excursion to swim with spinner dolphins, which may also include a Kealakekua snorkel. The Zodiac-style rafts hold 18 passengers, but Sea Quest takes just 14; rafts on longer tours include shade. Both the 5-hour Expedition South Kona and 4-hour Deluxe Morning Adventure depart in the mornings and include snorkeling among the incredibly diverse marine life of Honaunau Bay, within view of the towering wood tikis and restored cultural sites at Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (p. 36); the Expedition includes a third site and deli lunch. The aptly named 3-hour Captain Cook Express heads straight to Kealakekua; all three tours explore Kona Coast lava tubes and sea caves that larger boats can’t maneuver. Operating under the name Blue Ocean Dolphin Encounters, Sea Quest also offers a 5-hour tour that starts by locating a pod of wild spinner dolphins to swim with, under the tutelage of a certified divemaster, before their late-morning sleep (which is why they’re often spotted closer to shore that time of day). Afterward, it’s off to Kealakekua or another Kona Coast reef for snorkel and lunch.
Keauhou Bay Pier, 78-7128 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona. www.seaquesthawaii.com. 808/329-7238. Morning snorkel tour (daily 8am) $96 adults, $78 children 5–12. Afternoon snorkel tour (daily 12:30pm) $76 adults, $65 children 5–12. South Kona snorkel tour (weekdays 8am year-round; also weekends in summer and holiday periods) $114 adults, $93 children 5–12. Children under 6, pregnant women, and people with bad backs not allowed. Dolphin tours (ages 10 and older) 8am daily, $139. Discounts for booking online. Park in lot at end of King Kamehameha III Rd., across from pier.
If you’re not a swimmer, you don’t have to forgo seeing the multi-hued marine life for which the Kona and Kohala coasts are justly famous. Of the Big Island’s several glass-bottomed boat cruises, Kailua Bay Charters’ tour on the 36-foot Marian, which has comfy benches and shade, is well-suited to families. The trip is just an hour long, with a naturalist on board to explain what you’re seeing. If you tire of staring down, head to the bow to scan for dolphins or humpback whales. Tours leave Kailua Pier at 11:30am Thursday to Tuesday and 12:30pm Wednesday (www.konaglassbottomboat.com; 808/324-1749; $40 adults, $20 children under 12; reservations required). See the underwater sights of Anaehoomalu Bay on Ocean Sports’ 26-foot glass-bottom boat; it too has benches, shade, and a naturalist. Half-hour tours depart from the beach six times daily (www.hawaiioceansports.com; 888/724-5924, ext. 103, or 808/886-6666, ext. 103; $27 adults, $14 children 6 to 12, and free children under 6).
Hilo, the Hamakua Coast & Puna District
Lava Ocean Tours The unpredictability of Pele, at least as evidenced by the on-again, off-again lava flows into the sea from Kilauea, means there may or may not be sunset lava-viewing tours aboard the Lava Kai catamaran (34 ft. long; 24-passenger capacity but limited to 12) or the smaller Kuewa (27 ft.; six passengers). But Capt. Shane Turpin’s Volcano Boat Tour departing from Pohoiki (Isaac Hale Beach Park) near Pahoa still offers a close look unique at volcanic formations (sea arches, hardened lava “waterfalls”) along the coast. It’s not quite as exhilarating as seeing molten rock pour into a hissing ocean, but it’s still adventurous, given the open waters.
Departures from Wailoa Harbor, off Hwy. 11, Hilo, and Pohoiki (Isaac Hale Beach Park), Pahoa. www.seelava.com. 808/966-4200. Volcano boat tours 4:30pm Sun and Wed, $145 adults, $119 children 12 and under.
Body Boarding (Boogie Boarding) & Bodysurfing
As with other watersports, it’s important to stay out of rough surf in winter or during storms that bring big surf. In normal conditions, the best beaches for body boarding and bodysurfing on the Kona side of the island are Hapuna Beach on the Mauna Kea Resort, Laaloa Beach (White Sand/Magic Sands Beach) in Kailua-Kona, and Kua Bay (Maniniowali Beach) in Kekaha Kai State Park, north of the airport. Experienced bodysurfers may want to check out South Kona’s Hookena Beach Park. On the Hilo side, try Leleiwi Beach Park. See “Beaches” (p. 82) for details.
Hotel beach concessions and most surf shops (see “Surfing” on p. 114) rent body boards, but you can also find inexpensive rentals at Snorkel Bob’s, in the parking lot of Huggo’s restaurant, 75-5831 Kahakai St. at Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona (www.snorkelbob.com; 808/329-0770), and on the Kohala Coast in the Shops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., facing the road on the Mauna Lani Resort ( 808/885-9499). Both stores are open 8am to 5pm daily.
Imagine sitting at sea level, eye to eye with a turtle, a dolphin, even a whale—it’s possible in an ocean kayak. After a few minutes of instruction and a little practice in a calm area (like Kamakahonu Cove in front of the Courtyard King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel), you’ll be ready to explore. Beginners can practice their skills in Kailua Bay; intermediate kayakers might try paddling from Honokohau Harbor to Kekaha Kai State Park; while the more advanced can tackle the 5 miles from Keauhou Bay to Kealakekua Bay or the scenic but challenging Hamakua Coast. You can also rent kayaks, including a clear “peekaboo” version that allows you to view sea life, at Hookena Beach Park (p. 88) for $40 to $50 a day.
Kealakekua Bay Guided Tours & RentalsAlthough technically you can rent kayaks for exploring Kealakekua Bay on your own (and even land near the Captain Cook Monument, if you follow the arduous process of snagging one of 10 daily state permits), it’s best to go with a guided tour. Only three kayak companies are allowed to offer guided tours in Kealakekua Bay that land at the Cook monument (Kaawaloa), all launching from Napoopoo Wharf. Tours include equipment, snorkeling gear, snacks or lunch, and drinks and should be booked in advance, due to the tight limit on permits. Note that Napoopoo is a residential area, where parking can be difficult if you’re not on a tour.
Kona Boys (www.konaboys.com; 808/328-1234) was the first outfit to offer kayak rentals in Kona, and is still widely regarded as the best. Its Kealakekua Bay tours, held daily by reservation, meet at the shop at 79-7539 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), Kealakekua, at 7:15am, and finish at 1pm. Tours cost $169 for adults $149 for children. You can also rent gear from Kona Boys’ beach shack at Kamakahonu Bay ( 808/329-2345), the only one of its two sites to offer kayaks by the hour, not just by the day or week. Rentals include kayak, paddles, backrests, cooler, life jackets, dry bag, and a soft rack to carry kayaks on top of your car (including convertibles). Hourly rates are $19 single kayak, $29 double, with daily rates $54 and $74, respectively (weekly $174/$249).
Owned by a Native Hawaiian family, Aloha Kayak (www.alohakayak.com; 877/322-1444 or 808/322-2868) offers two tours of different lengths to Kealakekua Bay and Kaawalao Flats, where the memorial to Captain Cook stands. The 3½-hour tour (add an hour for check-in/check-out) departs at 8am and noon daily and costs $99 for adults and $50 for children 11 and under. The 5-hour tour, which allows more time at Kaawaloa and its cultural sites, departs at 7:15am Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday; it’s $129 for adults and $70 for children (check website for $20-off coupon). Half-day rental rates are $25 for a single and $45 for a double; full-day rates are $35 for a single and $60 for a double, with triple kayaks and discounts for longer periods also available. Aloha Kayak’s original shop is in Honalo, about 8½ miles south of Kailua-Kona, at 79-7248 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), just south of its intersection with Highway 180. In 2015 the family opened a second site, including a shave ice stand and other beach gear rentals, on Napoopoo Road, just below the Kona Pacific Farmers Cooperative mill.
The environmentally conscious Adventures in Paradise (www.bigislandkayak.com; 888/210-5365 or 808/447-0080) has a small office at 82-6020 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11) in Captain Cook, but generally meets clients at Napoopoo for its 3½-hour Kealakekua tours ($90–$100 for ages 5 and up), departing at 7 and 11:30am daily. (Tip: Book the early tour for the least crowded snorkeling.)
Parasailing
Get a bird’s-eye view of Hawaii’s pristine waters with UFO Parasail (www.ufoparasail.net; 800/FLY-4-UFO or 808/325-5836), which offers parasail rides daily between 8am and 5:30pm from Kailua Pier. The cost is $65 for the standard flight of 8 minutes of air time at 800 feet, and $75 for a deluxe 10-minute ride at 1,200 feet. You can go up alone or with a friend (or two); no experience is necessary, but single riders must weigh at least 130 pounds, and groups no more than 450 pounds. The boat may carry up to eight passengers (observers pay just $35), and the total time in the boat, around an hour, varies on the rides they’ve booked. Tip: Save $5 by booking online per ride.
Scuba Diving
The Big Island’s leeward coast offers some of the best diving and snorkeling in the world; the water is calm, warm, and clear. Want to swim with fast-moving game fish? Try Ulua Cave, at the north end of the Kohala Coast, from 25 to 90 feet deep; dolphins, rays, and the occasional Hawaiian monk seal swim by. And don’t forget to book a night dive to see the majestic manta rays, regularly seen in greater numbers here than anywhere else in Hawaii (or most of the world, for that matter). More than 2 dozen dive operators on island offer everything from scuba-certification courses to guided dives to snorkeling cruises.
Founded in 1984, Kohala Divers (www.kohaladivers.com; 808/882-7774) has daily two-tank dives ($139–$149) to spectacular sites off North and South Kohala, including a 30-foot-high lava dome covered in plate and knob coral that attracts huge schools of fish, and several spots off Puako frequented by green sea turtles. Snorkelers (gear included) and ride-alongs pay $85 to join these and other charters aboard the 42-foot dive boat, which books just 15 of its 24-passenger capacity. You can also rent scuba and snorkel gear at its shop in Kawaihae Harbor Shopping Center, 61-3665 Akoni Pule Hwy. (Hwy. 270), about a mile north of its intersection with Highway 19. It’s open daily 8am to 6pm.
“This is not your mother or father’s dive shop,” says owner Simon Key of the Kona Diving Company, in the Old Industrial area, 74-5467 Luhia St. (at Eho St.), Kailua-Kona (www.konadivingcompany.com; 808/331-1858). “This is a dive shop for today’s diver.” What sets Kona Diving Company apart, Simon claims, is its willingness to take its 34-foot catamaran (complete with showers, TV, and restrooms) to unusual dive sites, and “not those sites just 2 minutes from the mouth of the harbor.” Kona Diving also offers introductory dives ($205), two-tank morning dives ($130), and one- and two-tank manta ray night dives from Honokohau Harbor ($120–$140). Snorkelers and ride-alongs pay $80 to $115, gear included, depending on the trip; scuba gear cost $30 a day.
One of Kona’s oldest and most eco-friendly dive shops, Jack’s Diving Locker, in the Coconut Marketplace, 75-5813 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.jacksdivinglocker.com; 800/345-4807 or 808/329-7585), boasts an 8,000-square-foot dive center with solar-heated swimming pool (and underwater viewing windows), classrooms, and full-service rentals and sports-diving and technical-diving facility. It offers the classic two-tank dive for $125 ($65 snorkelers) and a two-tank manta-ray night dive for $155 ($125 snorkelers), on four roomy boats taking 10 to 18 divers (split into groups of six). Another night dive: “Pelagic Magic,” a one-tank descent into dark water that reveals iridescent jellies and evanescent zooplankton ($175), offered Tuesday and Thursday.
If you come to Hawaii and don’t snorkel, you’ll miss half the fun. The clear waters along the dry Kona and Kohala coasts, in particular, are home to spectacular marine life, including spinner dolphins by day and giant manta rays by night. You’ll want to take an evening boat tour (p. 95) or kayak tour (p. 104) to see the latter (and please heed instructions to just watch the mantas and not touch them, which harms their skin). For dolphins and reef denizens, go in the mornings, before afternoon clouds and winds lessen visibility. At all snorkeling sites, please be very careful not to stand on, kick, or touch the live coral, which takes years to grow. Tip: Rent your gear the night before you plan to snorkel, so you won’t be tempted to rush the fitting process.
Gear RentalsIf you’re staying at a Kona or Kohala resort, the hotel concession should have basic gear for hourly rental. If you’re thinking of exploring more than the beach outside your room, an inexpensive place to get basic rental equipment ($9 per week) is Snorkel Bob’s, in the parking lot of Huggo’s restaurant, 75-5831 Kahakai St. at Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona (www.snorkelbob.com; 808/329-0770), and on the Kohala Coast in the Shops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., facing the road on the Mauna Lani Resort ( 808/885-9499). Higher-quality gear costs $35 a week for adults, $22 for children ($44/$32 for prescription masks). Both stores are open 8am to 5pm daily.
You can also rent high-quality gear from Jack’s Diving Locker, Coconut Grove Shopping Center (next to Outback Steak House), 75-5813 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.jacksdivinglocker.com; 800/345-4807 or 808/329-7585), open 8am to 8pm Monday to Saturday, until 6pm Sunday. Snorkel sets cost $9 a day. On the Kohala Coast, visit Kohala Divers (www.kohaladivers.com; 808/882-7774) in the Kawaihae Shopping Center, 61-3665 Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), in Kawaihae, a mile north of the intersection with Highway 19. It’s open 8am to 6pm daily, with snorkel sets starting at $10 a day.
On the island’s east side, Nautilus Dive Center, 382 Kamehameha Ave. at Nawahi Lane (next to the Shell gas station) in Hilo (www.nautilusdivehilo.com; 808/935-6939), has daily snorkel packages for $6.
Top Snorkel SitesIf you’ve never snorkeled in your life, Kahaluu Beach (p. 82) is the best place to start, as long as the crowds don’t throw you off. Just wade in on one of the small, sandy paths through the lava-rock tide pools and you’ll see colorful fish. Even better, swim out to the center of the shallow, well-protected bay to see schools of surgeonfish, Moorish idols, butterflyfish, and even green sea turtles. The friendly and knowledgeable volunteers of the Kahaluu Bay Education Center (KBEC; www.kahaluubay.org; 808/640-1166) are on-site daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm to explain reef etiquette—essentially: “Look, but don’t touch”—and answer questions about its marine life. The KBEC even rents snorkel gear ($14) from Jack’s Diving Locker and boogie boards with viewing windows ($10), if you don’t want to put your face underwater; proceeds benefit conservation at this popular spot, visited annually by some 400,000 snorkelers, swimmers, and surfers.
Kealakekua Bay may offer the island’s best overall snorkeling (coral heads, lava tubes, calm waters, underwater caves and more), but because it’s a marine life conservation district and state historical park (p. 34), access is restricted to preserve its treasures. The best way to snorkel here is via permitted boat tours (p. 95), generally departing from Kailua Pier or Keauhou Bay, or kayak tours (p. 104) with permits to launch from Napoopoo Wharf and land near the Captain Cook Monument. You can paddle a rental kayak, canoe, or stand-up paddleboard from Napoopoo on your own, if the company has acquired a special permit; otherwise, it’s about a 10-mile round-trip paddle from Keauhou. Carrying your snorkel gear down and up the steep 5-mile trail from the highway is possible but not recommended. Watch out for spiny urchins as well as fragile coral when entering the water from lava rocks along the shore.
Much more easily accessible snorkeling, with a terrific display of aquatic diversity, can be found at Honaunau Bay, nicknamed “Two Step” for the easy entry off flat lava rocks into the crystalline waters just before Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (p. 36). Snorkeling is not permitted in the park itself, but you can pay the entrance fee to park your car there and walk to the bay, if the 25 or so spaces on the bayfront road—look for the coastal access sign off Highway 160—are taken.
North of the Kohala resort, the well-protected waters of Ohaiula Beach at Spencer Park (p. 90) are a great site for families to snorkel, with convenient facilities (restrooms, showers, picnic tables), not to mention a lifeguard on weekends and holidays, and a reputation for attracting green sea turtles. (Remember to look but don’t touch or approach turtles.) It can get windy, so mornings are again your best bet here.
Sport Fishing: The Hunt for Granders
Big-game fish, including gigantic blue marlin and other Pacific billfish, tuna, sailfish, swordfish, ono (aka wahoo), and giant trevallies (ulua), roam the waters of the Kona Coast, known as the marlin capital of the world. When anglers catch marlin weighing 1,000 pounds or more, they call them “granders”; there’s even a “wall of fame” in Kailua-Kona’s Waterfront Row shopping mall honoring those who’ve nailed more than 20 tons of fighting fish. Nearby photos show celebrities such as Sylvester Stallone posing with their slightly less impressive catches. The celebrities of the fishing world descend on Kailua-Kona in August for the 5-day Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament (www.hibtfishing.com), founded in 1959. Note that it’s not all carnage out there: Teams that tag and release marlin under 300 pounds get bonus points.
Nearly 100 charter boats with professional captains and crew offer fishing charters out of Keauhou, Kawaihae, Honokohau, and Kailua Bay harbors. If you’re not an expert angler, the best way to arrange a charter is through a booking agency like the Charter Desk at Honokohau Marina (www.charterdesk.com; 888/566-2487 or 808/326-1800), which can sort through the more than 60 different types of vessels and fishing specialties to match you with the right boat. Prices range from $750 to $3,500 or so for a full-day exclusive charter (you and up to five friends have an entire boat to yourselves) or $450 to $600 for a half-day. One or two people may be able to book a “share” on boats that hold four to eight anglers, who take turns fishing—generally for smaller catch, to increase everyone’s chances of hooking something. Shares start at $95 to $150 per person for half-day trips, $250 for a full day.
Wahoo caught in Big Island waters.
Note: Most big-game charter boats carry six passengers max, and the boats supply all equipment, bait, tackle, and lures. No license is required. Many captains now tag and release marlins; other fish caught belong to the boat, not to you—that’s island style. If you want to eat your catch or have your trophy mounted, arrange it with the captain before you go.
Stand-up Paddleboarding (SUP)
Anywhere the water is calm is a fine place to learn stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), which takes much less finesse than traditional surfing but offers a fun alternative to kayaking for exploring the coast. Numerous hotel concessions offer rentals and lessons, as do traditional surf shops.
Kona Boys (www.konaboys.com; 808/328-1234) has the best locale in Kailua-Kona to try your hand at SUP: Kamakahonu Cove, next to Kailua Pier and King Kamehameha’s royal (and sacred) compound. The spring water in the well-protected cove is a little too cool and murky for snorkeling, but just right for getting your bearings. The 90-minute lessons costs $99 in a group setting, $149 private; once you’ve got the hang of it, you can also join one of Kona Boys’ 90-minute tours ($99 group/$149 private) or just pick up a rental ($29 hourly, $74 daily). It also offers lessons and rentals at its Kealakekua location, 79-7539 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), 1¼ miles south of its intersection with Highway 180. Both sites are open daily until 5pm; the Kamakahonu beach shack opens at 8am, Kealakekua at 7:30am.
Another good option in North Kona is at Keauhou Bay, where Ocean Safaris (www.oceansafariskayaks.com; 808/326-4699) offers 2-hour lessons and tours, each $79; rentals are $25 for 2 hours, but paddlers must stay within Keauhou Bay.
On the Kohala Coast, the smooth crescents of Anaehoomalu Bay and Puako Bay are also well-suited to exploring via SUP. Ocean Sports (www.hawaiioceansports.com) rents boards for $30 a half-hour ($50 hourly) from its kiosk on the sand in front of the Waikoloa Beach Marriott; see website for details on its other Kohala locations. Hulakai rents all kinds of beach gear from its outlet in the Shops at Mauna Lani (http://hulakai.com; 808/896-3141). Open 10am–4pm daily, it offers 1-hour SUP lessons ($68) and 90-minute “adventures” ($98), plus rentals for $75 a day, $295 a week.
Surfing
Most surfing off the Big Island is for the experienced only, thanks to rocks, coral reef, and rip currents at many of the reliable breaks. As a general rule, the beaches on the north and west shores of the island get northern swells in winter, while those on the south and east shores get southern swells in summer. You’ll also need to radiate courtesy and expertise in the lineup with local surfers, understandably territorial about their challenging breaks.
In Kailua-Kona, experienced surfers should check out the two breaks in Holualoa Bay, off Alii Drive between downtown Kailua-Kona and Keauhou: Banyans near the northern point and Lyman’s near the southern point, once home to a surfers’ temple. If you don’t have the chops, don’t go in the water; just enjoy the show. Another surfing shrine, its black-lava rock walls still visible today, stands near Kahaluu Beach (p. 82), where the waves are manageable most of the year and there’s also a lifeguard. Less-experienced surfers can also try Pine Trees north of town, at Kohanaiki Beach (p. 86), where it’s best to avoid the busy weekends.
Surf breaks on the east side of the island are also generally best left to skilled surfers. They include Honolii Point, north of Hilo; Richardson’s Point at Leleiwi Beach Park (p. 91); Hilo Bay Front Park; and Pohoiki Bay, home to Isaac Hale Beach Park, near Pahoa.
Private & Group LessonsYou can have a grand time taking a surf lesson, especially with instructors who know where the breaks are best for beginners and who genuinely enjoy being out in the waves with you. The Native Hawaiian–owned Hawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors (www.surflessonshawaii.com; 808/324-0442), which gives lessons at Kahaluu Beach, has an especially good touch with kids and teens. For $110, adults and children as young as 3 can take a 90-minute private lesson (little ones under 55 pounds ride on the same board as their lifeguard/teacher). Lessons for ages 11 and up cost $75 per person for small groups (no more than three students per instructor) and $185 for a group of just two. On days when the waves are tame, HLSI offers the same lessons with stand-up paddleboards. Classes are three times a day, Monday through Saturday.
Board RentalsYou’re never going to rent a board as good as your own, but you’ll enjoy getting to know the local vibe at the appropriately named Pacific Vibrations, 75-5702 Likana Lane, tucked off Alii Drive just north of Mokuaikaua Church ( 808/329-4140), founded in 1978 by the McMichaels, a Native Hawaiian family with deep ties to surfing and the Ironman triathlon. It’s a trip just to visit the densely stocked surf shop in downtown Kailua-Kona. Surfboards rent for $10 to $20 a day, and body boards for just $5. Stand-up paddleboards go for $15 an hour. The staff is happy to help steer you to waves to match your skills.
Founded in Puako in 1997, surfboard shaper Hulakai (http://hulakai.com) also rents surfboards for $40 a day ($150 a week) from two locations: the Shops at Mauna Lani ( 808/896-3141) on the Mauna Lani Resort and in downtown Hilo ( 808/315-7497), at 1717 Kamehameha Ave. (at Banyan Drive), near the intersection of highways 11 and 19. You can also sign up for 2-hour private and semiprivate surfing lessons ($150 and $125 per person, respectively).
Other Outdoor Activities
Biking
Note: In addition to the rental fees mentioned below, expect to put down a deposit on a credit card, or leave your credit card number on file.
When you’re planning to spend a fair amount of time in Kailua-Kona, where parking can be at a premium, consider renting a bicycle for easy riding and sightseeing along flat, often oceanview Alii Drive. A cruiser can also be handy if you’re staying at a Kohala Coast resort and want an easy way to shuttle around shops, beaches, and condos without having to jump in the car. Experienced cyclists may also want to trace part of the Ironman course (112 miles round-trip) along the wide-shouldered “Queen K” and Akoni Pule highways from Kailua-Kona to Hawi, or join in one of the weekly group rides of the Hawaii Cycling Club (www.hawaiicyclingclub.com).
For simple cruisers, head to Hawaiian Pedals, Kona Inn Shopping Village, 75-5744 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.hawaiianpedals.com; 808/329-2294), which has 7-speed hybrid bikes for $25 a day and $91 a week; a 24-speed city bike is $30 a day, $112 a week. Pros and amateurs alike flock to its sister store, Bike Works, Hale Hana Centre, 74-5583 Luhia St., Kailua-Kona (www.bikeworkskona.com; 808/326-2453) for an even bigger selection of bikes, including mountain bikes ($17 a day), triathlon bikes ($28), and even electric bikes ($6), all with discounts for longer bookings. Bike Works also has a shop in Queens’ MarketPlace, Waikoloa Beach Resort (www.bikeworkshawaii.com; 808/886-5000), with road and city bike rentals ($25–$75 daily). Both locations offer weekly group rides open to all.
Note: Reserve well in advance for rentals in the first 2 weeks of October, during the leadup to the Ironman World Championship.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
The national park has miles of paved roads and trails open to cyclists, from easy flat rides to challenging ascents, but you’ll need to watch out for cars and buses on the often winding, narrow roads, and make sure you carry plenty of water and sunscreen. Download a cycling guide on the park’s website (www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/bike.htm) or pick one up at the Kilauea Visitor Center. The closest bike-rental shops are in Hilo, including Mid-Pacific Wheels, 1133 Manono St. (www.midpacificwheelsllc.com; 808/935-6211), which has mountain and road bikes for $25 to $45 a day, including a helmet; bike racks are $10 a day. Opened in 2014, Hawaii Rentals & Adventures (www.hilobikerentals.com; 808/364-0840), at the corner of Kamehameha Avenue and Kalakaua Street, will let you take a spin for an hour for just $5; 24-hour rentals are $25, including helmet and lock.
Or leave the planning to Volcano Bike Tours (www.bikevolcano.com; 888/934-9199 or 808/934-9199), which offers fully supported half- and full-day guided tours ($110–$134) in the national park that include some off-road riding and, on the longer tour, a van trip down to the end of Chain of Craters Road.
Golf
All greens fees below are for visitors; those with Hawaii state ID (kama‘a¯ina) may receive substantial discounts. Rates include carts unless noted.
The Kona Coast
The fabulous Hualalai Golf Course at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai (p. 145) is open only to resort guests—but for committed golfers, this Jack Nicklaus–designed championship course is reason enough to book a room and pay the sky-high greens fee of $275 ($150 for kids 13–18, free for children 12 and under with paying guest).
Big Island Country Club Designed by Perry Dye, this par-72, 18-hole course offers sweeping views of towering Mauna Kea and the bright blue coastline from its perch 2,000 feet above sea level. Although it’s not on the ocean, water features wind around nine of the holes, including the spectacular par-3 No. 17. Waterfalls, tall palms, and other lush greenery add to the tropical feel; look for native birds such as the nene (Hawaiian goose), hawks, stilts, and black-crowned night herons. The wide fairways and gently rolling terrain make it appropriate for players of every level. Facilities include club rentals, driving range, pro shop, lounge, and snack bar.
71-1420 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 190), Kailua-Kona. www.bigislandcountryclub.com. 808/325-5044. Greens fees $95 before noon; $79 after noon. 9 holes after 3pm, $66.
Kona Country Club Although the 18-hole Mountain Course has permanently closed, the Keauhou club’s newly renovated Ocean Course was expected to reopen in summer of 2015, after several delays. The extensive renovations to William Bell’s original links are said to include expanded greens, new cart paths and bunkers, and a new irrigation system. The always-enticing views of pounding waves on lava rock—also visible from the well-stocked pro shop—will no doubt remain the biggest draw. Other facilities include club rentals, driving range, pro shop, locker rooms, and putting and chipping greens.
78–7000 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. www.konagolf.com. 808/322-3431. Greens fees $165 ($145 Keauhou Resort guests) before noon; $112 after noon. 9 holes after 3pm $60.
Makalei Golf Club This par-72, 18-hole upcountry course—some 1,800 to 2,850 feet in elevation—goes up and down through native forests, cinder cones, and lava tubes over its championship length of 7,091 yards. The signature hole is the par-3 No. 15, offering a distant view of Maui and the best chance for a hole-in-one. A local favorite, Makalei is visited by wild peacocks, pheasants, and turkeys. Facilities include a golf shop, driving range, putting greens, club rentals (drop-off and pickup available), and the Peacock Grille restaurant, offering a full bar and a menu of burgers, salads, and snacks such as Spam musubi.
72-3890 Hawaii Belt Rd. (Mamalahoa Hwy./Hwy. 190), Kailua-Kona. www.makalei.com. 808/325-6625. Greens fees $99 before noon; $79 after noon. From the intersection of Palani Rd. and Hwy. 11 in Kailua-Kona, take Palani Rd. (which becomes Hwy. 190) east 7¼ miles, and look for green gates and small white sign on right.
The Kohala Coast
Hapuna Golf Course Since its opening in 1992, this 18-hole championship course has been named the most environmentally sensitive course by “Golf” magazine, as well as “Course of the Future” by the U.S. Golf Association. Designed by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay, the links-style course extends nearly 6,900 yards from the shoreline to 700 feet above sea level, with views of the pastoral Kohala Mountains and the Kohala coastline; look for Maui across the channel from the signature 12th hole. The elevation changes on the course keep it challenging (and windy the higher you go). There are a few elevated tee boxes and only 40 bunkers. Facilities include putting and chipping greens, driving range, practice bunker, lockers, showers, a pro shop, rental clubs, fitness center, and spa.
At the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, Mauna Kea Resort, off Hwy. 19 (near mile marker 69). www.princeresortshawaii.com. 808/880-3000. Greens fees $150 ($125 hotel guests) before 1pm; $80 after 1pm. Second round same day, $45. Ages under 18 $50.
Mauna Kea Golf Course This breathtakingly beautiful, par-72, 7,114-yard championship course, designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., and recently updated by son Rees Jones, is consistently rated one of the top golf courses in the United States. The signature 3rd hole is 175 yards long; the Pacific Ocean and shoreline cliffs stand between the tee and the green, giving every golfer, from beginner to pro, a real challenge. Another par-3 that confounds duffers is the 11th hole, which drops 100 feet from tee to green and plays down to the ocean, into the steady trade winds. When the trades are blowing, 181 yards might as well be 1,000 yards. Book ahead; the course is very popular, especially for early weekend tee times. Facilities include a pro shop and clubhouse with restaurant, named Number 3 for the hole Jones, Sr., once called “the most beautiful in the world.”
At the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Kea Resort, off Hwy. 19 (near mile marker 68). www.princeresortshawaii.com. 808/882-5400. Greens fees $255 ($230 hotel guests) before 11am; $185 11am–1:30pm; $165 after 1:30pm. Back 9 holes or second round same day, $125. Ages under 18 $95.
Manua Kea Golf Course.
Mauna Lani Francis H. I‘i Brown Championship Courses Carefully wrapped around ancient trails, fish ponds, and petroglyphs, the two 18-hole courses here have won “Golf” magazine’s Gold Medal Award every year since the honor’s inception in 1988. The South Course, a 7,029-yard, par-72, has two unforgettable ocean holes: the over-the-water 15th hole and the downhill, 221-yard, par-3 7th, which is bordered by the sea, a salt-and-pepper sand dune, and lush kiawe trees. The North Course may not have the drama of the oceanfront holes, but because it was built on older lava flows, the more extensive indigenous vegetation gives the course a Scottish feel. The hole that’s cursed the most is the 140-yard, par-3 17th: It’s beautiful but plays right into the surrounding lava field. Facilities include two driving ranges, a golf shop (with teaching pros), a restaurant, and putting greens. Mauna Lani also has the island’s only keiki (children’s) course, a 9-hole walking course for juniors, beginners, and families (golfers under 14 must be with an adult).
At the Mauna Lani Resort, Mauna Lani Dr., off Hwy. 19 (20 miles north of Kona Airport). www.maunalani.com. 808/885-6655. Greens fees vary by time and season: $225 ($160–$170 for hotel guests) before 10am; $195 ($145–$155 hotel guests) 10am–noon; $145 ($120–$125 hotel guests) after noon. Keiki course: $25 children, including clubs; $35 adults ($15 clubs).
Waikoloa Beach Resort Courses Two 18-hole courses beckon here. The pristine 18-hole, par-70 Beach Course certainly reflects the motto of designer Robert Trent Jones, Jr.: “Hard par, easy bogey.” Most golfers remember the par-5, 505-yard 12th hole, a sharp dogleg left with bunkers in the corner and an elevated tee surrounded by lava. The Kings’ Course, designed by Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish, is about 500 yards longer. Its links-style tract has a double green at the 3rd and 6th holes, and carefully placed bunkers see a lot of play, courtesy of the ever-present trade winds. Facilities include a golf shop, 15-acre practice range (with complimentary clubs and unlimited balls for just $15), and the affordable, Scottish-themed Kings’ Grille restaurant; call for a free shuttle within the resort.
At the Waikoloa Beach Resort, 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa. www.waikoloabeachgolf.com. 808/886-7888. Greens fees: $145–$180 ($145 for resort guests) before 11:30am; $125 ($120 resort guests) 11:30am–1pm; $115 ($110 resort guests) 1–2pm; $95 after 2pm. 9 holes after 8:30am, $69. Children 6–17, $60. Second round same day, $55.
Waikoloa Village Golf Course This semiprivate 18-hole course, with a par-72 for each of the three sets of tees, is hidden in the town of Waikoloa, next to the Paniolo Greens timeshare resort. Overshadowed by the glamorous resort courses of the Kohala Coast, it’s nevertheless a beautiful course with terrific views and some great golfing. The wind can play havoc with your game here (like most Hawaii golf courses). Robert Trent Jones, Jr., in designing this challenging course, inserted his trademark sand traps, slick greens, and great fairways. The par-5, 490-yard 18th hole is a thriller: It doglegs to the left, and the last 75 yards up to the green are water, water, water. Enjoy the fabulous views of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, and—on a very clear day—Maui’s Haleakala in the distance.
In Waikoloa Village, 68-1793 Melia St., Waikoloa. www.waikoloavillagegolf.com. 808/883-9621. Greens fees $98 ($72 Paniolo Greens guests) before 2pm; $60 after 2pm. Children 7–17 $45 before 2pm; $40 after 2pm. From the airport, turn left on Hwy. 19, head 18 miles to stoplight at Waikoloa Rd. Turn right, drive uphill 6½ miles to left on Paniolo Ave. Take 1st right onto Lua Kula St. and follow ½-mile to Melia St.
Hilo
Hilo Municipal Golf Course This 146-acre course is great for the casual golfer: It’s flat, scenic, and often fun. Just don’t go after a heavy rain (especially in winter); the fairways can get really soggy and play can slow way down. The rain does keep the course green and beautiful, though. Wonderful trees (monkeypods, coconuts, eucalyptus, banyans) dot the grounds, and the views—of Mauna Kea on one side and Hilo Bay on the other—are breathtaking. There are four sets of tees, with a par-71 from all; the back tees give you 6,325 yards of play. It’s the only municipal course on the island, and in the state’s second largest city, so getting a tee time can be a challenge; weekdays are the best bet. Facilities include driving range, pro shop, club rentals, restaurant, and snack bar.
340 Haihai St. (btw. Kinoole and Iwalani sts.), Hilo. www.hawaiicounty.gov/pr-golf. 808/959-7711. Greens fees $34 Mon–Fri, $45 Sat–Sun and holidays; carts $16.
Naniloa Country Club At first glance, this semi-private 9-hole course just off Hilo Bay looks pretty flat and short, but once you get beyond the 1st hole—a wide, straightforward 330-yard par-4—things get challenging. The tree-lined fairways require straight drives, and the huge lake on the 2nd and 5th holes is sure to haunt you. This course is very popular with locals and visitors alike. Facilities include driving range, putting green, pro shop, and club rentals.
120 Banyan Dr. (at the intersection of hwys. 11 and 19), Hilo. 808/935-3000. Greens fees: 9 holes, $10 adults ($9 seniors 62 and over, $5 children under 17); 18 holes, $15 adults ($12 seniors 62 and over, $9 children under 17). Cart $10 ($15 for 18 holes).
Hiking
Trails on the Big Island wind through fields of coastal lava rock, deserts, rainforests, and mountain tundra, sometimes covered with snow. It’s important to wear sturdy shoes, sunscreen, and a hat, and take plenty of water; for longer hikes, particularly in remote areas, it may also be essential to bring food, a flashlight, and a trail map—not one that requires a cellphone signal to access (coverage may be nonexistent). Hunting may be permitted in rural, upcountry, or remote areas, so stay on the trails and wear bright clothing.
The island has 16 trails in the state’s Na Ala Hele Hawaii Trail & Access System (www.hawaiitrails.org; 808/974-4382), highlights of which are included below; see the website for more information. For an even greater number of trails on a variety of public lands, see the detailed descriptions on www.bigislandhikes.com.
Kona & Kohala Coasts
The Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail (www.nps.gov/alka; 808/326-6012, ext. 101) is the designation for an ancient, 175-mile series of paths through coastal lava rock, from Upolu Point in North Kohala along the island’s west coast to Ka Lae (South Point) and east to Puna’s Wahaula Heiau, an extensive temple complex. Some were created as long-distance trails, others for fishing and gathering, while a few were reserved for royal or chiefly use. There’s unofficial access through the four national park sites—Puukohola Heiau, Kaloko-Honokoau, Puuhonua O Honaunau, and Hawaii Volcanoes (see “Attractions & Points of Interest” on p. 26)—but it’s easy, free, and fun to walk a portion of the 15.4-mile stretch between Kawaihae and Anaehoomalu Bay, part of the state’s Na Ala Hele trails system (www.hawaiitrails.org; 808/974-4382). Signs mark only the 8-mile portion of Ala Kahakai between the northern terminus of Ohaiula Beach at Spencer Park (p. 20) through Puako to Holoholokai Beach Park, near the petroglyph field on the Mauna Lani Resort, but it’s fairly easy to follow farther south by hugging the shoreline, past resort hotels and multimillion-dollar homes, anchialine ponds, and jagged lava formations.
For those not satisfied with the view from the Pololu Valley Lookout (p. 42), the steep, 1-mile Pololu Valley Trail will lead you just behind the black-sand beach (beware of high surf and riptides). In addition to a 420-foot elevation change, the trail’s challenges can include slippery mud and tricky footing over ancient cobblestones. As with all windward (that is, rainy) areas, be prepared for pesky mosquitos and/or cool mist.
If you’re willing to venture on Saddle Road (Hwy. 200), which some rental-car companies still forbid, the Puu Huluhulu Trail is an easy, .6-mile hike that gradually loops around both crests of this forested cinder cone, with panoramic views of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa between the trees. There’s a parking lot in front of the hunter check-in station at the junction of the Mauna Loa observatory access road and Saddle Road.
The Hamakua Coast
The 25% grade on the 1-mile “hike” down the road to Waipio Valley (p. 53) is a killer on the knees, and no picnic coming back up, but that’s just the start of the epic, 18-mile round-trip adventure involving the Muliwai Trail, a very strenuous hike to primeval, waterfall-laced Waimanu Valley. This trail is the island’s closest rival to Kauai’s Kalalau Trail, and so is only worth attempting by very physically fit and well-prepared hikers. Once in Waipio Valley, you must follow the beach to Wailoa Stream, ford it, and cross the dunes to the west side of the valley. There the zigzag Muliwai Trail officially begins, carving its way some 1,300 feet up the cliff; the reward at the third switchback is a wonderful view of Hiilawe Falls. Ahead lie 5 miles of 12 smaller, tree-covered gulches to cross before your first view of pristine Waimanu Valley, which has nine campsites (see “Camping” on p. 166) and two outhouses, but no drinking water. The trail is eroded in places and slippery when wet—which is often, due to the 100-plus inches of rain, which can also flood streams. This explains why the vast majority of those who see Waimanu Valley do so via helicopter (p. 76).
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
This magnificent national treasure and Hawaiian cultural icon (p. 68) has more than 150 miles of trails, including many day hikes, most of which are well-maintained and well-marked; a few are paved or have boardwalks, permitting strollers and wheelchairs. Warning: If you have heart or respiratory problems or if you’re pregnant, don’t attempt any hike in the park; the fumes will bother you. Also: Stacked rocks known as ahu mark trails crossing lava; please do not disturb or create your own.
Plan ahead by downloading maps and brochures on the park website (www.nps.gov/havo), which also lists areas closed due to current eruptions. Always check conditions with the rangers at the Kilauea Visitor Center, where you can pick up detailed trail guides. Note: All overnight backcountry hiking and camping requires a free permit, available only the day of or the day before your hike, from the park’s Backcountry Office ( 808/985-6178).
In addition to sights described on the Crater Rim Drive tour (p. 69) and Chain of Craters Road tour (p. 72), here are some of the more accessible highlights for hikers, all demonstrating the power of Pele:
Kilauea Iki TrailThe 4-mile loop trail begins 2 miles from the visitor center on Crater Rim Road, descends through a forest of ferns into still-fuming Kilauea Iki Crater, and then crosses the crater floor past the vent where a 1959 lava blast shot a fountain of fire 1,900 feet into the air for 36 days. Allow 2 hours for this fair-to-moderate hike, and look for white-tailed tropicbirds and Hawaiian hawks above you.
Devastation Trail Up on the rim of Kilauea Iki Crater, you can see what an erupting volcano did to a once-flourishing ohia forest. The scorched earth with its ghostly tree skeletons stands in sharp contrast to the rest of the lush forest. Everyone can take this 1-mile round-trip hike on a paved path across the eerie bed of black cinders. The trailhead is on Crater Rim Road at Puu Puai Overlook.
Kipuka Puaulu (Bird Park) TrailThis easy 1.2-mile round-trip hike lets you see native Hawaiian flora and fauna in a little oasis of living nature in a field of lava, known as a kipuka. For some reason, the once red-hot lava skirted this mini-forest and let it survive. Go early in the morning or in the evening (or, even better, just after a rain) to see native birds like the ‘apapane (a small, bright-red bird with black wings and tail) and the ‘i‘iwi (larger and orange-vermilion colored, with a curved salmon-hued bill). Native trees along the trail include giant ohia, koa, soapberry, kolea, and mamane.
Puu HuluhuluThis moderate 3-mile round-trip to the summit of a cinder cone (which shares its name with the one on Saddle Rd., described above) crosses lava flows from 1973 and 1974, lava tree molds, and kipuka. At the top is a panoramic vista of Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, the coastline, and the often steaming vent of Puu Oo. The trailhead is 8 miles from the visitor center, in the Mauna Ulu parking area on Chain of Craters Road. (Sulfur fumes can be stronger here than on other trails.)
Devastation Trail hiking path.
For avid trekkers, several long, steep, unshaded hikes lead to the beaches and rocky bays on the park’s remote shoreline; they’re all considered overnight backcountry hikes and, thus, require a permit. Only hiking diehards should consider attempting the Mauna Loa Trail, perhaps the most challenging hike in all of Hawaii. Many hikers have had to be rescued over the years due to high-altitude sickness or exposure, after becoming lost in snowy or foggy conditions. From the trailhead at the end of scenic but narrow Mauna Loa Road, about an hour’s drive from the visitor center, it’s a 7.5-mile trek to the Puu Ulaula (“Red Hill”) cabin at 10,035 feet, and then 12 more miles up to the primitive Mauna Loa summit cabin at 13,250 feet, where the climate is subarctic and overnight temperatures are below freezing year-round. In addition to backcountry permits (see above), this 4-day round-trip requires special gear, great physical condition, and careful planning.
A guided day or night hike is a safe but stimulating way for city slickers to explore natural Hawaii. Book one of these excursions before you arrive; trips fill up quickly.
A longtime resident of Hawaii, Dr. Hugh Montgomery of Hawaiian Walkways ★ (www.hawaiianwalkways.com; 800/457-7759 or 808/775-0372), one-time winner of “Tour Operator of the Year” by the Hawaii Ecotourism Association of Hawaii, offers a variety of options, from excursions that skirt the rim of immense valleys to hikes through the volcano clouds. Hikes range from $129 to $190 for adults, and $99 to $130 for kids. Guides also lead hikes with tent camping in Waipio Valley and, via the Muliwai Trail (p. 172), Waimanu Valley, for $350–$525 for 1 night ($800 for 2), all gear and meals provided. Custom hikes are also available.
Naturalist and educator Rob Pacheco of Hawaii Forest & Trail ★★★ (www.hawaii-forest.com; 800/464-1993 or 808/331-8505) offers fully outfitted day trips to some of the island’s most remote, pristine areas, including lands to which his company has exclusive access. His well-trained guides narrate the entire trip, offering extensive ecological, geological, and cultural commentary (and more than a little humor). Tours are limited to 12 to 14 people and are highly personalized to meet the group’s interests and abilities. Options include my personal favorite, the 8-hour Kohala Waterfalls Adventure ★★★ ($169 for adults, $139 for children 12 and under), which you can pair with ziplining (p. 135); exceptionally well-run, all-day birding tours, for ages 8 and older ($179–$189); all-day trips to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park ★★★, some 300 miles round-trip ($179–$189 for adults, $159 for children) and some shorter (6–7 hr.); and stargazing atop Mauna Kea ★★★ ($199; for ages 16 and up only).
Although vast Parker Ranch, the historic center of Hawaiian ranching, no longer offers horseback tours, several other ranches in upcountry Waimea provide opportunities for riding with sweeping views of land and sea. Picturesque Waipio Valley is also another focus of equestrian excursions. Note: Most stables require riders to be at least 8 years old and weigh no more than 230 pounds; confirm before booking.
The 11,000-acre Ponoholo Ranch, whose herd of cattle (varying between 6,000 and 8,000) is second only to Parker Ranch’s, is the scenic home base for Paniolo Adventures (www.panioloadventures.com; 808/889-5354). Most of its five rides are open-range style and include brief stretches of trotting and cantering, although the gorgeous scenery outweighs the equine excitement—all but the 4-hour Wrangler Ride ($175) are suitable for beginners. The tamest option is the 1-hour City Slicker ride ($69), but the 1½-hour Sunset Ride ($89) appears to be the most popular. Boots, light jackets, Australian dusters, chaps, helmets, hats, drinks, and even sunscreen are provided. Look for Paniolo Adventures’ red barn on Kohala Mountain Road (Hwy. 250), just north of mile marker 13.
Horseback riders in the Waipio Valley.
Naalapa Stables (www.naalapastables.com; 808/889-0022) operates rides at Kahua Ranch, which also has an entrance on Kohala Mountain Road, north of mile marker 11. Riding open-range style, you’ll pass ancient Hawaiian ruins, through lush pastures with grazing sheep and cows, and along mountaintops with panoramic coastal views. The horses and various riding areas are suited to everyone from first-timers to experienced equestrians. There are several trips a day: a 2½-hour tour at 9am and 1pm for $94 and a 1½-hour tour at 10am and 1:30pm for $73; check-in is a half-hour earlier.
Naalapa has another stable in Waipio Valley ( 808/775-0419), which offers the more rugged Waipio Valley Horseback Adventure , a 2½-hour ride that starts with a 4WD van ride down to this little-inhabited but widely revered valley (p. 53). The horses are sure-footed in the rocky streams and muddy trails, while the guides, who are well-versed in Hawaiian history, provide running commentary. The cost is $94 for adults, with tours at 9:30am and 12:30pm Monday to Saturday. Don’t forget your camera or bug spray; check in a half-hour earlier at Waipio Valley Artworks, 48-5415 Kukuihaele Road, off Highway 240, about 8 miles northwest of Honokaa.
Waipio Valley Artworks (see above) is also the check-in point for Waipio Ridge Stables (www.waipioridgestables.com; 877/757-1414 or 808/775-1007), which leads riders on a 2½-hour Valley Rim Ride ($85), including views of the beach below and Hiilawe waterfall at the rear of the deep valley. The 5-hour Hidden Waterfalls Ride ($165) includes the sights along the rim ride, and then follows the stream that feeds Hiilawe through the rainforest to a picnic and swim in a bracingly cool waterfall pool, but it’s rather long if you’re not into riding. Note: Fog sometimes obscures views of Waipio Valley from the rim.
Tennis
While some resorts only allow guests to use their tennis facilities, the Kohala Coast has several delightful exceptions. The 11-court Seaside Tennis Club ( 808/882-5420) at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (p. 154) is frequently ranked among the world’s finest, for good reason: Three of the courts ($25 per person) are right on the ocean, and all enjoy beautiful landscaping. The club also boasts luxurious locker rooms, a pro shop with racket and ball machine rentals, daily clinics, round robins, and lessons for ages 4 and up. Those not staying at the hotel just need to make a reservation for a court (open 8am–5pm daily) or lesson.
Just as highly ranked, the Hawaii Tennis Center 808/887-7532) at the Fairmont Orchid Hawaii (p. 150) offers 10 courts (including one stadium court), with evening play available until 9pm by reservation. It has a pro shop, rents rackets and ball machines, and offers lessons. Fees are $30 per court; check in at pro shop first. At Hilton Waikoloa Village (p. 153), Palealea Ocean Sports Tennis (www.hawaiioceansports.com; 808/886-6666, ext. 108) provides five cushioned courts and one stadium court, plus lessons, clinics, and racket and ball machine rentals. Court fees are $20 per hour ($30 per day if available).
You can also play for free at any Hawaii County tennis court; the easiest way to find one nearest you is to visit www.tennisinhawaii.com. For those in Kailua-Kona, the four courts at Old Kona Airport Park (p. 87) offer the best experience.
Ziplining
Ziplining gives Big Island visitors an exhilarating way to view dramatic gulches, thick forests, gushing waterfalls, and other inspiring scenery—without significantly altering the landscape. Typically, the pulley-and-harness systems have redundant safety mechanisms, with lines and gear inspected daily and multiple checks of your equipment during the tour; your biggest worry may be losing your cellphone or anything not in a zipped pocket. Most outfitters also rent GoPro video cameras that attach to your helmets, so you can relive your whizzing rides at home.
Note: For safety reasons, tours have minimum ages (listed below) and/or minimum and maximum weights; read the fine print carefully before booking. Outfitters also go out several times a day, rain or shine, which on the Hilo side is likely to include both on any given day; dress accordingly. Most excursions last 2 to 3 hours, but the exact length of your tour varies based on number of riders, so don’t schedule your day too tightly.
North KohalaThe Australian eucalyptus and native kukui trees on Kohala Zipline’s Canopy Tour (www.kohalazipline.com; 800/464-1993 or 808/331-3620) might not provide the most colorful panoramas, but this nine-line adventure ($169 adults, $139 kids 8–12) emphasizes environmental awareness and cultural history in a compelling way—and the extra-quiet ziplines and multiple suspension bridges are a hoot, too. You’ll fly from platform to platform in a sylvan setting that includes ancient taro terraces believed to have been farmed by Kamehameha before he became king. Tours ($169) depart from the zip station on Highway 270 between Hawi and Kapaau up to 16 times daily; shuttle service is also available from South Kohala and North Kona resorts for the 8:30am and 1pm tours ($209 adults, $179 children 8 to 12, lunch included). For a very special splurge, take the outfitter’s 8-hour Kohala Zip & Dip which combines the Canopy Tour with Hawaii Forest & Trail’s fascinating Kohala Waterfalls Adventure (p. 131), including a waterfall swim and picnic overlooking beautiful Pololu Valley. The Zip & Dip tours ($249, for ages 8 and older) depart from Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Beach Resort and Hawaii Forest & Trail headquarters on Highway 19 in Kailua-Kona, 74-5035 Queen Kaahumanu Hwy. (north of Kealakehe Parkway).
The Hamakua CoastI don’t like the misleading name, but I can’t begrudge the thrills involved on the Akaka Falls Skyline Adventure (www.zipline.com/bigisland; 888/864-6947), which actually zips past the nearly 250-foot-tall Kolekole Falls, downstream from the taller and more famous Akaka Falls (p. 47) in Honomu, about 12 miles north of Hilo. The seven-line course builds in length and speed, while the well-informed guides share insights into local flora and fauna—including banana, taro, and wild pigs—and the area’s history as a sugar plantation. The 2½- to 3-hour tour costs $170 (ages 10 and older), with 10% off for online bookings.
The Umauma Falls Zipline Tour (www.ziplinehawaii.com; 808/930-9477) lives up to its name, where you see the captivating, three-tiered falls (p. 51) along with 13 other smaller cascades as you zip along its two-mile, nine-line course ($189) in Hakalau, about 16 miles north of Hilo. The Zip & Dip option ($239) includes an hour of kayaking and swimming under a waterfall, next to the Hilo side’s only known petroglyph; for a four-line option, contact the company directly. There’s no age limit, but children under 18 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian.