SPUMONE WITH HOMEMADE HAZELNUT BRITTLE:
SPUMONE AL CROCCANTE
FRUIT AND SPICE SPUMONE: SPUMONE AL PANEFORTE
LEMON GRANITA JUST LIKE IN Italy:
GRANITA AL LIMONE COME QUELLA DEL BAR
ALMOND GRANITA: GRANITA ALLE MANDORLE
HAZELNUT CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO:
SEMIFREDDO DI GIANDUIA
SERVES 6
REGION: Throughout Italy
In the United States, spumone has come to mean ice cream in three layers—strawberry, vanilla, and pistachio—for the colors of the Italian flag. Not in Italy. There, spumone is the general name for a category of semifrozen whipped-cream desserts.
Once I tasted this embarrassingly simple-to-make four-ingredient treat, taught to me by Sarah Scaparone, an Italian journalist, I gave away my ice cream maker. In fact, it is because of this recipe that there are no gelato recipes in this book. Why bother with a special freezing contraption when you can enjoy a creamy frozen delight without one? Plus, just like with ice cream, you can vary it in thousands of ways, and—unlike many semifreddo recipes—it contains no raw eggs. Try it once, and I guarantee this will become one of your favorite go-to desserts.
senza bacco e cerere,
si raffredda venere.
WITHOUT FOOD AND WINE,
LOVE COOLS.
Sugar ¾ cup (5¼ ounces/150 grams)
Finely crushed hazelnuts 1/3 cup (2 ounces/55 grams)
Egg yolks 4 large
Heavy cream 1½ cups (12 fluid ounces/360 milliliters)
Put ¼ cup (1¾ ounces/50 grams) of the sugar in a small saucepan and heat over medium heat until the sugar begins to melt and turn light golden. Remove from the heat and stir in the nuts. Working quickly, before the mixture hardens, spread the candied nuts onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let cool to room temperature, then break into tiny bits. Set aside.
Bring a pot of water to a low boil over medium heat. Combine the egg yolks and the remaining ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams) sugar in a metal or glass heat-resistant bowl and whisk until creamy and light yellow. Then set the bowl over the boiling water, without letting the bottom touch the water, and continue to whisk until the mixture is thick. Remove the bowl from the pot and stir in three quarters of the candied hazelnut bits. This is the spumone mixture.
In a large bowl, whip the cream until firm peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the cold spumone.
Line a small (4-by-8-inch/20-by-11-centimeter) loaf pan with plastic wrap. Spoon the spumone into the pan and place in the freezer for about 4 hours, until firm. Turn out onto a serving plate, remove the plastic wrap, and garnish with the remaining candied hazelnut bits. Slice and serve.
UN ALTRO MODO
Almond or Pistachio Brittle Spumone: Substitute almonds or pistachios for the hazelnuts.
Candy Jar Spumone: Instead of making brittle, substitute store-bought candy, such as chopped Baci, caramels, gianduiotti, or torrone. Spumone is the perfect place for anything in your candy jar!
Chestnut Chocolate Spumone: Add 1½ ounces (45 grams) finely chopped milk or dark chocolate and ⅔ cup (3¼ ounces/90 grams) minced roasted or candied chestnuts when you fold in the whipped cream.
Cookie Crunch: Fold 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters) chopped cookies in with the whipped cream.
Fruit Crunch: Fold in 1 cup (about 5¼ ounces/150 grams) finely diced fruit in with the whipped cream. Bananas work especially well with the hazelnut.
SERVES 6
REGION: Throughout Italy
Panforte, a spicy mix of fruit and nuts, is one of my favorite Italian treats. Available here online or in gourmet shops, I always have it on hand. I not only like to serve small wedges for dessert, but also use it as an ingredient. It gives me a chance to add tasty Italian nuts and fruit to cake batter, pudding, fresh fruit salad, and this delicious, simple frozen delight.
a variar vivande
accresce l’appetito.
VARIED FOODS
INCREASE APPETITE.
Sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Egg yolks 4 large
Panforte, preferably Corsini brand (see sources) 6 ounces/170 grams, chopped
Heavy cream 1½ cups (12 fluid ounces/360 milliliters)
Bring a pot of water to a low boil over medium heat. Combine the sugar and egg yolks in a metal or glass heat-resistant bowl and whisk until creamy and light yellow. Set the bowl over the boiling water, without letting the bottom touch the water, and continue to whisk until all the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is thick. Remove the bowl from the pot and let cool to room temperature. Stir in about three quarters of the panforte. This is the spumone mixture.
In a large bowl, whip the cream until firm peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the spumone. Line a small (4-by-8-inch/10-by-20-centimeter) loaf pan with plastic wrap. Spoon the spumone into the pan and place in the freezer for about 4 hours, until firm. Turn out onto a serving plate, remove the plastic wrap, and garnish with the remaining panforte. Slice and serve.
Panforte, “strong bread,” a Tuscan specialty especially from Siena, is made with candied and dried fruits, almonds, and honey. It’s coated with a thin, white, edible wafer and topped with confectioners’ sugar. It’s especially popular during the Christmas holidays. There are various versions of panforte, including panforte nero, which is covered in chocolate. A similar Christmas sweet is pampepato, “pepper bread,” a specialty of Umbria. The white edible wafer that coats both sides of panforte is also used to make other sweets and is sold in Italian grocery stores. Curiously, it is also sold in pharmacies. The wafers are packaged as round disks, of various sizes, meant to wrap around medicines to make them easier to swallow.
SERVES 4
REGION: Throughout Italy
With this basic recipe, you can create countless variations substituting virtually any fruit for the strawberries. Try raspberries, cherries, ripe peaches, or bananas.
il mattino ha
l’oro in bocca.
IN THE MORNING THERE’S GOLD
IN YOUR MOUTH. (A NEW DAY HOLDS
ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES.)
Heavy cream 1¼ cups (10 fluid ounces/300 milliliters)
Fresh strawberries 9 ounces/255 grams, plus more for garnish
Juice of 1 lemon
Confectioners’ sugar 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (4 ounces/115 grams)
Line a small (4-by-8-inch/10-by-20-centimeter) loaf pan or other container with plastic wrap so it hangs over the edges a few inches on all sides.
In a large bowl, whip the cream until firm peaks form. Set aside.
In a mini food processor or blender, combine the strawberries and lemon juice and puree until almost completely smooth. Stir in the sugar and fold the mixture into the whipped cream.
Spoon into the prepared pan, cover with the overhanging plastic wrap, and put in the freezer for at least 4 hours, until firm.
Pick up the edges of the plastic wrap and remove the molded spumone. Place on a serving plate, slice, garnish with fresh strawberries, and serve.
SERVES 8
REGION: Throughout Italy
Light as a cloud, not too sweet, and quick to make, this dessert is elegant enough for fancy dinner parties but simple enough for a midweek treat. The basic recipe can be varied in hundreds of ways; this version is like homemade lemon ice cream, but with no need for an ice cream maker.
il diavolo fa la
pentole ma non i coperchi.
THE DEVIL MAKES THE POT BUT NOT
THE COVER. (IT’S EASY TO DO WRONG,
BUT NOT SO EASY TO HIDE IT.)
Eggs 5 large, separated
Sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Juice of 2 lemons
Unflavored gelatin 1 envelope (¼ ounce/ 7 grams)
Heavy cream 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Line a small (4-by-8-inch/10-by-20-centimeter) loaf pan or 4-cup (32 fluid ounces/960 milliliters) mold with plastic wrap.
Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Put the egg yolks and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until frothy. Remove the saucepan from the heat and put the bowl over the hot water. Whisk until the mixture is light yellow and creamy. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, and gelatin and whisk until combined.
In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold the whites into the lemon mixture.
In another large bowl, whip the cream until firm peaks form, then fold it into the lemon mixture. Spoon into the prepared mold and freeze for about 2 hours, until set. Turn out onto a serving platter, remove the plastic wrap, and serve immediately.
UN ALTRO MODO
Raspberry Lemon Semifreddo: Fold in a handful of fresh or frozen raspberries with the whipped cream.
Chocolate Lemon Semifreddo: Fold in some grated dark chocolate with the whipped cream.
Spiked Lemon Almond Semifreddo: Fold in a few tablespoons of limoncello, some chopped almonds, and 6 to 8 crushed amaretti (crisp almond cookies) with the whipped cream.
SERVES 6
REGION: Sicily
I rushed down to the kitchen as soon as I woke up. In the freezer, just as promised, was a picture-perfect bowl of lemon granita like you’d get in a bar in Italy. Amazing considering that I hadn’t had to scrape, stir, or do a thing. It was like magic. The granita was smooth, without ice crystals, and I didn’t need an ice cream maker. Unbelievable.
Through trial and error and sheer persistence, Ornella Mirelli, one of my favorite Italian food bloggers, had discovered that a little honey, a whirl with an electric mixer, and a freezer set at medium is all it takes for ideal lemon granita.
hai scoperto
l’acqua calda!
YOU’VE DISCOVERED HOT WATER!
(YOU’VE REINVENTED THE WHEEL!)
Sugar 1½ cups (10½ ounces/300 grams)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Honey 1 heaping tablespoon
Bring 1½ cups (12 fluid ounces/360 milliliters) water, the sugar, and lemon zest to a boil, then lower the heat and cook at a low boil for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice and honey. Using an electric mixer or immersion blender, beat the mixture for 1 minute.
Pour the mixture into a freezer-safe glass or plastic container and freeze overnight or for at least 12 hours.
The granita stays soft for up to 1 week in the freezer, but to keep it longer, store the container in a resealable plastic bag.
During the hot summers, many Sicilians enjoy a cool breakfast brioche sandwich filled with granita or gelato and topped with a dollop of whipped cream. These special brioche rolls, called brioche con il tuppo, have a little rounded tip on top, and also go by the colorful nickname brioscia a minna, brioche with a breast.
SERVES 8
REGION: Calabria
Real licorice—I don’t mean the sweet red gummy stuff—is very popular in Italy, not only as a candy but also as a flavoring for both savory and sweet foods. I especially love licorice in granita because its strong flavor is toned down a notch by the icy coldness. Plus you can control the sweetness to suit your tastes. Small, hard Italian licorice candies quickly melt in boiling water to create this chic treat.
meglio spendere
soldi dal macellaio che
dal farmacista.
BETTER TO SPEND MONEY AT THE
BUTCHER INSTEAD OF THE PHARMACIST.
Unsweetened hard licorice candies, such as Amarelli ¾ ounce/20 grams
Raw or turbinado sugar ⅔ cup (4½ ounces/130 grams)
Bring 4 cups/960 milliliters water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the licorice candies and sugar and simmer until the sugar and licorice are dissolved, about 4 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, then pour into a metal or freezer-safe glass container. Freeze for about 4 hours, breaking up the ice crystals with a fork or whisk every 30 to 40 minutes. Scrape with a fork or spoon and serve in wineglasses or dessert cups.
SERVES 4
REGION: Sicily
Making granita couldn’t be simpler. Put the mixture in the freezer, break up the ice crystals every hour or so until they stay crystallized, and enjoy.
Granita is a Sicilian invention. In the past, during the warm months, noble and wealthy families of Sicily kept case neviere—snow houses—to store the snow gathered from the top of Mount Etna. Each section of Sicily has its own particular specialty granita. Coffee granita is typical of Messina, where it’s often served with a generous dollop of whipped cream.
il caffè è buono
con tre s: seduti,
scottante e scroccato.
COFFEE IS BEST WITH THREE S’S:
SEATED, SCALDING, SCROUNGED.
Sugar 1/3 cup (2¼ ounces/65 grams)
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
Freshly brewed hot espresso or strong coffee 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Whipped cream and confectioners’ sugar, optional
In a small saucepan, bring ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters) water to a boil, then stir in the granulated sugar and vanilla bean. Bring back to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the coffee. Let cool to room temperature.
Taste, and add more granulated sugar or coffee, if you like. Remove the vanilla bean and pour into a metal or freezer-safe glass container and freeze for 3 to 4 hours, breaking up the ice crystals and stirring with a fork or whisk every 30 to 40 minutes.
If parts have become solid, scrape the granita with a fork or grapefruit spoon. Serve topped with whipped cream and confectioners’ sugar, if you like.
UN ALTRO MODO
Caffè Latte Granita: Substitute ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters) whole milk for the water, but bring just to a low, not full boil.
Espresso Corretto Granita: When you stir in the espresso, add ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces/60 milliliters) grappa or sambuca or ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters) amaretto or other sweet liqueur.
SERVES 4
REGION: Sicily
Rich but not heavy, and wonderfully creamy, this is a simple two-ingredient summer treat that is ideal for vegetarians (and vegans, if you use sugar instead of honey) or anyone who is lactose intolerant.
settembre amico,
apre mandorlo e fico.
NICE WEATHER IN SEPTEMBER
BRINGS GOOD ALMONDS AND FIGS.
Almond paste (see Note) 7 ounces/200 grams, diced
Honey or sugar
Mix the almond paste to taste with 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters) water in a blender and process until the almond paste is completely incorporated. Taste and add honey or sugar, if you like.
Pour into a shallow metal or freezer-safe glass container and freeze for about 3 hours, breaking the ice crystals with a fork every 30 to 40 minutes.
To serve, scrape the mixture with a fork until it resembles a slushy, and serve immediately.
NOTE: If you can’t get quality almond paste, use freshly made almond milk, either homemade or from a health food store. If you use almond milk, there’s no need to add water.
UN ALTRO MODO
Almond Coffee Granita: Serve the granita topped with a sprinkle of instant coffee or espresso powder.
Pistachio Granita: Substitute pistachios for the almond paste. Using a mortar and pestle, grind the same weight of pistachios until a paste forms, then follow the directions above.
Sorbetlike Almond Granita: Many Sicilian gelato shops add stiffly beaten egg whites to almond granita to make it creamier and more sorbetlike. To make it: After the granita has been in the freezer for 3 hours, beat 2 large egg whites until stiff peaks form, fold the whites into the granita, and freeze for another 40 minutes. Scrape with a fork and serve.
SERVES 6
REGION: Piedmont
This is a sophisticated yet simple granita made with Asti Spumante, a sparkling white dessert wine, that adds a lovely grape aroma and taste. Plus, the little bit of alcohol helps keep the mixture from freezing as hard as the usual granita, so it’s easier to serve. You can substitute just about any fruit for the strawberries. Try peaches, cantaloupe, raspberries, or even a combination—all are delicious with Asti.
pane coi buchi,
formaggio compatto,
e vino che salti in faccia.
BREAD WITH HOLES, COMPACT
CHEESE, AND WINE THAT JUMPS
TO YOUR FACE (SAID WHEN EATING
CRUSTY BREAD, AGED CHEESE AND
SPARKLING WINE).
Sugar ¾ cup (5 ¼ ounces/150 grams)
Fresh strawberries 1 quart/960 milliliters
Asti Spumante 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters)
Put the sugar, strawberries, and 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters) of the wine in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth, about 30 seconds. Pour in the remaining wine and pulse once or twice to combine.
Pour into a shallow freezer-safe glass container and freeze for about 4 hours, breaking up the ice crystals with a fork every 30 to 40 minutes. Scrape with a fork or grapefruit spoon and serve in wineglasses or dessert cups.
SERVES 8
REGION: Throughout Italy
Creamy white, studded with bits of chewy torrone, this icy cold treat is served topped with warm melted chocolate. As lovely as it is luscious, it comes together quickly without any special equipment.
le buone parole
non rompono i denti.
SAYING SOMETHING KIND
WON’T BREAK YOUR TEETH.
Eggs 3 large, separated
Sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
Heavy cream 3 cups plus 2 tablespoons (25 fluid ounces/750 milliliters)
Torrone (Italian nougat) 12 ounces/340 grams, cut into small cubes
Dark chocolate 2 ounces/55 grams
Line a small (4-by-8-inch/10-by-20-centimeter) loaf pan or 4-cup (32 fluid ounces/960 milliliters) mold with plastic wrap.
In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks and sugar together until light yellow and fluffy.
In a separate large bowl, whip all but 2 tablespoons of the cream until firm peaks form, then fold the whipped cream into the egg yolk mixture.
In another large bowl, with clean and dry beaters, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then fold the whites, along with the torrone, into the egg yolk mixture. Spoon the mixture into the prepared pan and freeze for about 4 hours, until firm.
Just before serving, put the chocolate and remaining 2 tablespoons cream in a small bowl and melt the chocolate, either in a microwave oven or over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Unmold the semifreddo onto a serving plate and remove the plastic wrap. Serve it immediately, sliced and topped with the chocolate.
Throughout Italy there are many variations of torrone, a nougat candy made of nuts, honey, and egg whites. Each region’s version highlights its local ingredients, such as pistachio nuts, chocolate, liqueurs, or candied fruits. Torrone can be hard or soft, large or small, and even comes in small bite-sized pieces called torroncini. There are also chocolate-covered varieties.
Since at least the early Renaissance, torrone has been one of the traditional sweets served at Christmas and for special occasions, particularly weddings. The menu for the wedding banquet for Bianca Maria Visconti and Francesco Sforza, celebrated in Cremona in 1441, lists a sweet made of almonds, honey, and egg whites sculpted to look like the town’s municipal tower, called Torrione. According to tradition, the name torrone comes from that tower.
SERVES 6
REGION: Piedmont, and popular throughout Italy
Here in the States we’re big on combining peanut butter and chocolate, but in Italy one of the most popular pairings is hazelnut and chocolate, a creamy blend called gianduia. It’s worth a quick Internet search to find this amazingly aromatic and velvety smooth chocolate. It’s great eaten plain, or in any recipes calling for chocolate, especially this one.
luglio dal
gran caldo, bevi ben e
batti saldo.
JULY IS HOT, SO DRINK A LOT.
Egg whites 2 large
Sugar 2 tablespoons
Heavy cream ½ cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters)
Gianduia chocolate 6 ounces/170 grams, melted
Line a small (4-by-8-inch/10-by-20-centimeter) loaf pan or 6 individual freezer-safe cups with plastic wrap.
In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then beat in 1 tablespoon of the sugar.
In another medium bowl, whip the cream until firm peaks form, then whip in the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Fold the egg whites into the whipped cream until combined, then gently fold in the melted chocolate until just combined. Do not overmix. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan or cups and freeze for about 3 hours, until very firm.
To serve, unmold onto a large serving platter or individual plates, remove the plastic wrap, and top with either shaved or melted gianduia chocolate.
SERVES 8
REGION: Campania and popular throughout Italy
“Close your eyes. Taste. It’s like eating creamy ice cream while strolling through a field of rosemary, yes?” asks Giovanni Marzano, chef at the Grand Hotel Vesuvio, as I try a spoonful of this aromatic creamy bliss.
“Yes!”
rompere il ghiaccio.
TO BREAK THE ICE.
Sugar ¾ cup (5¼ ounces/150 grams)
Fresh rosemary sprigs 2 large
Unflavored gelatin 1 envelope (¼ ounce/ 7 grams)
Egg yolks 4 large
Honey 2 tablespoons
Heavy cream 2 cups (16 fluid ounces/480 milliliters)
Line a small (4-by-8-inch/10-by-20-centimeter) loaf pan or 4-cup (32 fluid ounces/960 milliliters) mold or 8 individual ½-cup (4 fluid ounces/120 milliliters) ramekins or molds with enough plastic wrap to extend over the sides.
Put ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams) of the sugar and 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters) water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the rosemary, lower the heat to medium, and cook for 15 minutes, until light green and fragrant. Remove from the heat, remove and discard the rosemary, sprinkle in the gelatin, and stir to combine. Let cool to room temperature.
In a medium heat-proof bowl set over a pot of gently boiling water, with an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks, the remaining ¼ cup (1¾ ounces/50 grams) sugar, and the honey until light and creamy, at least 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whip the cream until firm peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream and rosemary syrup into the egg yolk mixture until just combined. Pour into the prepared pan and cover with plastic wrap. Freeze until firm, about 4 hours if using one mold or 1 hour if using individual molds. Unmold onto a large serving platter or individual plates, remove the plastic wrap, and serve immediately.