PASTRY CREAM: CREMA PASTICCERA
ITALIAN SPONGE CAKE: PAN DI SPAGNA
LEMON JAM: MARMELLATA DI LIMONI
QUICK CANDIED ORANGE PEEL: SCORZETTE DI ARANCE CANDITE,
METODO VELOCE
CHERRY JAM: MARMELLATA DI CILIEGIE
PEACH ALMOND MARMALADE:
MARMELLATA DI PESCHE ALL’AMARETTO
MAKES 6 CUPS (1½ QUARTS/1.4 LITERS)
Creamy custard seasoned with aromatic vanilla, this is an absolute basic, used to make hundreds of classic Italian desserts, including torta della nonna and zuppa inglese.
It’s also served plain, accompanied by fresh fruit, slices of pandoro or panettone, or cookies. This is a simple and very forgiving recipe.
nun te piglià collera
ca ’o zucchero va caro.
DON’T GET UPSET THAT SUGAR
IS EXPENSIVE. (NEAPOLITAN
EXPRESSION MEANING IT ISN’T
WORTH THE WORRY.)
Egg yolks 
8 large
Sugar ½ cup (3½ ounces/100 grams)
All-purpose flour ½ cup (2 ounces/55 grams)
Milk 3 cups (24 fluid ounces/720 milliliters)
Heavy cream 1 cup (8 fluid ounces/240 milliliters)
Pure vanilla extract 1 tablespoon
In a bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and beat with an electric mixer or whisk until creamy and light yellow. Mix in the flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until smooth.
Put the milk, cream, and vanilla in a saucepan and heat over low heat until bubbles begin to appear around the edge of the pan. Do not boil. Gradually beat in the egg yolk mixture, making sure to beat until there are no lumps. Return to low heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the pastry cream thickens, about 3 minutes. Do not overcook. The mixture should be thick, but not stiff. It will solidify as it cools.
Immediately remove from the heat and pour into a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, with the wrap touching the surface of the pastry cream so it doesn’t form a skin. Refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours.
UN ALTRO MODO
Crema pasticcera al caffè: Add 1½ tablespoons instant espresso powder.
Crema pasticcera al cioccolato: Add 3 ounces/85 grams grated dark chocolate and 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder.
Crema pasticcera al limone: Omit the vanilla and add the grated zest and juice of 1 lemon.
MAKES ENOUGH DOUGH FOR 1 DOUBLE-CRUST PIE,
OR 2 SINGLE-CRUST PIES
This is the mainstay Italian crust. Similar to short-crust pastry, it’s a very forgiving dough, virtually impossible to mess up. Even if it breaks apart a little as you’re putting it into the pie pan, all you have to do is press it together with your fingers. Roll it out on a sheet of lightly floured parchment paper, as the dough is very sticky.
a tavola ed a tavolino
si conosce la gente.
AT THE TABLE YOU REALLY
GET TO KNOW SOMEONE.
All-purpose flour 17/8 cups (8½ ounces/240 grams)
Sugar ¾ cup (5¼ ounces/150 grams)
Butter 8 tablespoons (4 ounces/115 grams), softened, cut into pieces
Eggs 2 large
Egg yolks 2 large
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Salt ¼ teaspoon
Liqueur, such as Maraschino or Sassolino 2 tablespoons, optional
In a large bowl or on a work surface, mix together the flour, sugar, and butter pieces with a wooden spoon until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Form a well in the center and add the eggs, egg yolks, lemon zest, salt, and liqueur (if using). Gradually stir in the flour mixture, until thoroughly combined. Shape the dough into a ball, wrap in a sheet of plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before rolling out.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR TWO 9-INCH/23-CENTIMETER ROUND THIN CAKE
LAYERS, OR ONE 9-INCH/23-CENTIMETER ROUND THICK CAKE LAYER
Pan di spagna, “bread of Spain,” is a key ingredient in hundreds of classic Italian desserts like zuccoto and Sicilian cassata. Pan di spagna’s light and airy texture absorbs fillings amazingly well, so it stacks wonderfully, allowing you to create tall, moist layer cakes.
non tutte le ciambelle
riescono col buco.
NOT EVERY DONUT HAS A
HOLE. (NOT EVERYTHING TURNS
OUT AS PLANNED.)
Butter and flour for the pan
Eggs 4 large
Sugar 1 cup (8 ounces/225 grams) plus 2 tablespoons
Egg yolks 8 large
00 flour 1 7/8 cups (7 ounces/200 grams)
Potato starch or cornstarch ¼ cup (1 ounce/30 grams)
Pure vanilla extract 2 teaspoons
Grated zest of ½ lemon
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Lightly butter and flour one or two 9- or 10-inch (23- to 25-centimeter) springform cake pans.
Combine the whole eggs and sugar in a stand mixer and beat on high speed for 15 minutes, until the mixture quadruples in volume.
Add the egg yolks and beat on high speed for 5 minutes. The mixture should be thick enough to write with. Sift the flour and potato starch gradually into the egg-sugar mixture, incorporating a little at a time, mixing each inclusion of flour delicately with a spatula, scooping from the bottom up, so you do not deflate the eggs. Mix in the vanilla and lemon zest until just blended, then divide the batter between the prepared pans.
Bake for about 30 minutes, until light golden and a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Do not overbake. It will dry and set as it cools.
Turn out onto a wire rack and let cool to room temperature.
MAKES 1 POUND (455 GRAMS)
This straightforward recipe is perfect for making torta riccolina (page 153) and is also great with savory sauces.
buon vino, tavola lunga.
GOOD WINE KEEPS
US AT THE DINNER LONGER.
Semolina or all-purpose flour 1¾ cups (10 ounces/280 grams)
Eggs 3 large
Egg yolk 1 large
Mound the flour in a large bowl. Make a deep well in the center of the mound and add the eggs and egg yolk. Beat the eggs with a fork, then gradually incorporate a little flour at a time. Knead the dough for about 10 minutes, until it feels silky. Working in sections, roll it out with a rolling pin or pass it through a pasta machine, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Cut the pasta into thin strips and toss lightly with semolina flour to keep it from sticking.
MAKES AS MUCH AS YOU LIKE
I got this recipe from an adorable grandma in Basilicata, Franca Artuso, whose pantry of home-canned foods was better stocked than most supermarkets. She kept pulling out one jar after another—home-cured olives, peaches in brandy, sun-dried tomato paste, and dozens of different jams. If it fell off a tree, she made jam out of it. This is one of my favorites. I especially like that you use the entire lemon, so nothing is wasted. It’s good on bread, with cheeses, or as pie filling.
Small seedless lemons
Sugar
Pierce the lemons all over with a fork. Put the lemons in a large bowl of water for 3 days, replacing the water twice each day.
Cut the lemons, skin and pulp, into very tiny pieces either with a knife by hand or, preferably, in a food processor. Weigh the resulting lemon mass and measure out that weight in sugar. Combine the lemons and sugar in a saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until thickened, about 40 minutes, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon. Put into sterilized jars or keep refrigerated.
MAKES 1½ CUPS (12 FLUID OUNCES/360 MILLILITERS)
To make candied orange peel you usually have to carefully cut off the skin and remove the white pith, but in this Italian method you actually leave it on and even some of the orange itself. This cuts prep time way down, makes for a softer candied peel, and actually adds to the flavor.
In Italy, candied orange peels are often served after dessert as a little nibble to keep you lingering at the table. They are terrific plain or dipped in dark chocolate. Chop and add them to cookie or cake recipes or even to rice pudding, custard, sorbet, or gelato.
chini toccada sumeli
si lingidi su idu.
WHO TOUCHES HONEY WILL
SURELY LICK HIS FINGER.
Navel oranges 6 large
Sugar 2¼ cups (15¾ ounces/450 grams), plus more for drying
Cut the oranges into quarters, then slice each quarter into slices about 1/3 inch (8 millimeters) thick. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then add the orange slices. Bring the water back to a boil, then drain. Repeat once more to remove any of the orange peels’ remaining bitterness.
Combine the orange slices and sugar with 4 cups (1 quart/ 960 milliliters) water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to very low and simmer until all the water evaporates, about 2 hours. Let cool in the pan, then spread the orange slices on a baking sheet or wire rack, sprinkle with a little sugar, and air dry for 24 hours. The peels can be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container for several months.
MAKES 1¼ CUPS (12 FLUID OUNCES/360 MILLILITERS)
In Italy, fresh cherries are often served in a large bowl of water and ice. This recipe, made without pectin or a fuss, captures their summer flavor. Sweet and simple.
Pitted cherries 1 pound/455 grams
Sugar 1¼ cups (8¾ ounces/250 grams)
Grated zest of ½ lemon
Combine the cherries and sugar in a saucepan, cover with plastic wrap, and let macerate at room temperature overnight or for 12 hours. Put the pan over low heat and simmer for about 45 minutes, until thickened. Let cool to room temperature, then either leave it chunky or puree the mixture in a mini food processor. Stir in the lemon zest. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Stays fresh for 6 weeks or more.
MAKES 3 CUPS (24 FLUID OUNCES/720 MILLILITERS)
Dark, densely flavorful, and aromatic, this classic Italian grape preserve is made without sugar and you don’t even need to add pectin, as the apple provides enough naturally.
chi mangia l’uva
per capodanno maneggia i
quattrini tutto l’anno.
WHO EVER EATS GRAPES ON NEW YEAR
WILL HAVE GOOD LUCK ALL YEAR.
Black grapes 4 pounds (1.8 kilograms), stemmed and seeded
Apple 1 cored, peeled, and diced
Combine the grapes and apple in a large saucepan and cook over very low heat for 4 to 5 hours, stirring occasionally. Or you can put them in the oven at 200°F (95°C) for 6 to 8 hours, until very, very thick. Let cool to room temperature, put in a clean jar, and refrigerate. Stays fresh for 6 weeks or more.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS (24 FLUID OUNCES/720 MILLILITERS)
Yellow peaches 1 pound/455 grams
White peaches 1 pound/455 grams
Sugar 2 cups (14 ounces/400 grams)
Almond liqueur, such as Amaretto 5 tablespoons (2½ fluid ounces/75 milliliters)
5 whole blanched almonds, lightly toasted and finely crushed
Peaches with a double hint of almond.
Pit and coarsely chop the peaches, leaving the skins on. Combine them in a bowl with the sugar and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or overnight.
Put the resulting juice in a wide saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the liquid reduces by half, then add the fruit pieces. Simmer the fruit over very low heat for about 1½ hours, until the mixture thickens. (Don’t worry if it seems too liquidy; it will condense as it cools. If you’d like to test the jam, put a tiny plate in the freezer for 1 hour. Place a few drops of the jam onto the icy cold plate and tilt the plate. If the jam runs down slowly, it’s ready.)
When thick, add the liqueur and almonds and continue to simmer for another 5 minutes so the alcohol evaporates. Pour into sterilized Mason jars, or if you’re refrigerating the jam, into clean containers.