Canada, pink-foot
Shooting season:
Inland, 1 September — 31 January
Foreshore, 1 September — 20 February
Wild geese are found on the foreshores of Scottish coasts and The Wash, and on inland lakes, lochs and flat marshy estuaries.
The greylag goose is the ancestor of the domestic goose and is of a uniformly grey-brown colour. It has pink legs and a distinctive orange bill. It is the largest grey goose.
The pink-footed goose is smaller than the greylag and has a chocolate-brown head, plain brown breast, grey back and wings, pink legs and a pink and black bill.
The feral Canada is a very large grey-brown goose. It has a black head and neck with a distinctive white patch behind the eye. The back is dark brown with paler brown flanks and belly, a black bill, tail and legs.
The sale of wild geese is now prohibited by law, so few people have the opportunity to cook and eat these birds unless they have friends or family who are keen wildfowlers. By far the largest goose which may be shot in Britain is that native of North America, the Canada goose, introduced here as an ornamental bird to decorate the lakes of country estates, but now widely spread throughout lowland areas. The Canada provides good sport and is possibly the best flavoured of all the geese.
The smaller grey geese are the greylag, pink-footed and white-fronted. The latter is protected in Scotland. The pink-footed, white-fronted and most greylag geese are migrants, breeding in Iceland and other northerly outposts and arriving in Britain in early October. An increasing number of greylag geese breed here; migrant greylags generally arrive in late October.
(Top) White-fronted and (below) pink-footed geese
It is a popular misconception that because geese live mainly on the foreshore they feed on, and therefore taste of, fish. This is far from the truth for no goose ever hatched has ever eaten a fish! Geese only roost on the estuaries and bays or large expanses of inland water, partly as a source of sand or grit which they need to aid digestion and partly for safety from foxes. They fly onto agricultural land each day from their roost in search of food. Their main diet consists of grass, but early in the season they will feed on grain on stubble fields and, later, pink-feet in particular will seek out mushy potatoes left behind after the crop has been lifted. Even later in the season they will look for winter wheat and feed on the young green shoots, often causing considerable damage to the crop.
The flesh of this muscular bird is dark and close-grained and has very little natural fat.
As a general rule, geese are better if hung for at least two weeks to help to tenderise the meat. This is easy in wintry conditions and better if the geese have not spent too long in the back of a warm car. For geese shot in the early part of the season when the weather may be mild, hanging time may have to be reduced unless you have access to a cold store. As with other game, geese should be hung by the head, out of reach of predators, in a cool, airy place.
Wild geese are difficult to age accurately, the more so as the season progresses. Generally, young birds have a flexible underbill and brightly coloured legs, and they lack the strong, clear-cut markings of the adult bird. Early in the season young geese have a V-shaped notch in the tail feather. After mid-November these guidelines begin to fail, so a good rule of thumb is, if in doubt treat the bird as an old one.
Geese are hard on the fingers to pluck, so it may be worthwhile paying a local butcher to do this. Cut off the head and feet and remove the wings at the first joint. Draw in the usual way and wipe the bird clean. Truss as for pheasant, using a long skewer through the wings and upper body. Fold the neck skin underneath and try to catch this under a length of string looped around the ends of the skewer crossed over at the back and tied to the legs and parson’s nose.
Tail feather of a young goose showing ‘V’ shaped notch
Geese may be frozen and stored for six to nine months, although I have cooked one which had been in the deep freeze for a year and it tasted excellent. Young birds are best roasted with a herb or fruit stuffing and served with a fruit jelly or sauce. The addition of a little liquid such as wine, cider, fruit juice or stock will help to keep the birds moist. It is a good idea to cook a goose breast down, covered with a lid or foil. The bird may be turned and the cover removed towards the end of the cooking time to allow the breast to crisp and brown. Older birds may be braised in a slow oven or made into pâté.
The weight of geese varies more than any other fowl or game bird. The average oven-ready weight of a Canada goose is about 2.7kg (61b) and should serve six to eight people. The weight of grey geese may vary considerably from 1.3kg (31b) for a young bird to as much as 4kg (81b 12oz). The latter may be as old as twenty-five years and is sure to be a ‘fork-bender’! On average, grey geese weigh 1.8kg (41b) oven-ready and will serve four.
The following recipes are suitable for all species of goose. Adjust the cooking times according to the weight of the bird.
Roast goose of the domestic variety was the traditional Christmas dinner in many households before Dickens popularised the turkey. Wild goose, though not as succulent as its farmyard descendant, is equally full of flavour and, served with a savoury stuffing and a fruit jelly, makes a festive meal far better than a modern ‘plastic’ turkey at Christmas, or any time of the year for that matter.
1 young Canada goose (2.7-3.6kg (6-81b)), oven-ready
Sage and onion stuffing
300ml (1⁄2pt) stock
1tbsp flour
Sprigs of sage or parsley to garnish
Quince jelly or apple sauce
Stuff the neck end of the goose with sage and onion, pull the neck skin under the body. Pass a skewer through the wings and upper body. Tie string around the ends of the skewer, catching the neck flap underneath if possible, cross the string over and tie around the legs and parson’s nose. Place the goose breast down in a roasting tin and cover loosely with foil. Roast in a fairly hot oven, 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6, for 11⁄2 hours.
Turn the goose over and baste with the stock. Cover and return to the oven for another 2 hours, basting occasionally. Remove the foil for the final 20 minutes of cooking time to brown and crisp the skin. Place the goose on a carving dish and keep hot.
Thicken the stock with the flour to make the gravy, seasoning if necessary.
Garnish the goose with bunches of herbs and serve with a selection of vegetables, gravy and quince jelly (see Good Companions) or apple sauce.
The flavour of cherries and goose go well together. Add a little kirsch or brandy to the sauce and decorate with cherries and slices of lemon to make a colourful dish for a special occasion.
1 young goose (1.8kg (41b)), oven-ready
1 can stoned red cherries
2tbsp kirsch or brandy
2tsp cornflour
Salt
Lemon slices to garnish
Truss the goose and rub a little salt into the breast. Stand in a roasting tin breast down, cover with a lid or foil and roast for 1 hour in a fairly hot oven, 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6.
Skim off any excess fat from the tin and turn the goose over. Drain the cherries from the can and baste the goose with the syrup. Return to the oven for 1-11⁄4 hours. Remove the lid or foil for the final 20 minutes and baste again.
Place the goose on a carving dish and keep hot.
Blend the cornflour with a little water, add to the cooking juices in the roasting tin and stir over a medium heat until the sauce thickens.
Add the kirsch or brandy and the cherries and heat through gently.
Spoon a little of the sauce over the goose, decorate the breast with lemon slices and place the cherries around the goose. Serve the rest of the sauce separately.
The sharp tang of oranges goes well with all wildfowl and goose is no exception: add a dash of Cointreau or any orange liqueur to give the sauce extra flavour.
1 young goose (1.8kg (41b)), oven-ready
1 onion, chopped
1 apple, cored and quartered
1 orange, quartered
300ml (1⁄2pt) pure orange juice
2 small oranges
1tbsp cornflour
2tbsp Cointreau
Salt and pepper
Mix together the prepared onion, apple and orange and place in the body cavity. Tie the legs and parson’s nose together with string, closing the body cavity as much as possible.
Place the goose breast down in a roasting tin. Cover with a lid or foil and cook in a fairly hot oven, 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6, for 11⁄2 hours. Skim off any excess fat from the tin, turn the goose over and baste with 150ml (1⁄4pt) of the orange juice. Roast uncovered for another 30 minutes.
Using a potato peeler, remove the rind from the oranges, cut into thin strips and blanch in boiling water for 5 minutes. Strain the rind.
Leven Wild Goose with Orange Sauce
Remove the pith from the two oranges and cut the fruit into rings with a serrated knife.
When the goose is cooked, place it on a carving dish and keep hot.
Blend the cornflour with the remaining orange juice and stir into the pan juices. Add the blanched orange rind, salt and pepper to taste and heat through gently until the sauce thickens. Finally, remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Cointreau.
Spoon a little of the sauce over the goose and decorate with the orange rings. Serve the rest of the sauce separately.
This is a good way to deal with a bird of indeterminate age. The goose is first pot-roasted in a little stock, then carved and recooked with red wine and mushrooms.
The second stage of cooking may be completed the next day.
1 wild goose
1 small onion
Thinly pared rind and juice of 1 orange
300ml (1⁄2pt) stock
300ml (1⁄2pt) red wine
100g (4oz) mushrooms, sliced
1tbsp flour
Sprig of thyme
Place the onion and orange rind inside the body cavity. Tie the legs and parson’s nose together with string, closing the body cavity as much as possible.
Place the goose breast down in a flameproof casserole just large enough to take the bird. Add the stock and thyme. Cover and cook in a moderately hot oven, 190°C (375°F), gas mark 5, for 11⁄2 hours.
Remove the goose from the casserole and allow it to cool.
Mix the flour with the orange juice and blend into the stock. Add the wine and bring to the boil, stirring all the time.
Remove the legs and wings, and carve the rest of the goose into small slices. Replace the meat in the casserole. Add the sliced mushrooms and cook at the same temperature for 1 hour.
Serve with jacket potatoes and spiced red cabbage (see Good Companions).
As the breast meat from a roast goose tends to be everyone’s favourite portion, this pâté uses up the less popular meat from the legs and wings as well as the scraps from the carcass. Combine with the liver and minced pork to make a well-flavoured pâté to serve with salads and fresh bread.
225g (8oz) cooked goose meat
225g (8oz) raw minced pork
1 goose liver
1 small onion
1 clove garlic, crushed
1tsp dried sage
1tsp mixed herbs
150ml (1⁄4pt) red wine
Salt and black pepper
Fresh sage to garnish
Chop the goose meat, onion and liver into very small pieces with a sharp knife or in a food processor using the metal blade. Combine with minced pork, garlic, herbs and seasoning and mix thoroughly.
To check the flavour at this stage, cook a little of the mixture in a frying pan, taste and add more herbs and seasoning if necessary.
Spoon the mixture into a well-greased loaf tin or earthenware casserole. Cover with foil, place in a roasting tin and half fill with boiling water. Bake in a moderate oven, 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4, for 11⁄2-2 hours.
Remove the pâté from the water bath, cool and leave weighted overnight.
Turn out onto a serving dish and decorate with sprigs of sage.
A small amount of cold roast goose may be added to a variety of salads to make a light lunch, a supper dish or a starter. Here, avocado pear and oranges are tossed in a light dressing and mixed with finely shredded goose meat.
275-350g (10-12oz) cold goose meat
1 large ripe avocado pear
2 large oranges
2tbsp olive oil
2tbsp lemon juice
Salt and black pepper
Peel the avocado pear, remove the stone and slice thinly. Place in a large serving bowl.
Using a sharp knife, peel off the skin and pith from the oranges. Hold over the serving bowl and cut out the segments of fruit, discarding skin and pips.
Combine the oil and lemon juice and pour over the avocado and oranges, mixing lightly.
Season the goose meat with salt and pepper and combine with the fruit mixture.
Serve with crusty bread or rolls.
Roast wild goose, basted with a spiced sugar glaze and served with a tangy cider and apple sauce.
1 wild goose (1.8kg (41b)), oven-ready
450g (1lb) cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced
300ml (1⁄2pt) dry cider
2tbsp soft brown sugar
1tsp cinnamon
1tsp dry mustard
2tbsp cider (taken from the 300ml (1⁄2pt))
Apple rings
Lemon juice
Oil
Truss the goose and place breast down in a roasting tin or flameproof casserole. Cover with foil or the casserole lid and cook in a fairly hot oven, 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6, for 1 hour. Spoon off any excess fat and turn the goose over.
Place the apples around the goose and pour the cider over the breast, reserving 2tbsp for the glaze. Cover and return to the oven for another 40 minutes.
To prepare the glaze, mix the sugar, mustard and cinnamon and blend together with 2tbsp cider. Remove the cover from the goose and baste thoroughly with the sugar glaze. Cook for a further 20 minutes or until the glaze is crisp. Transfer to a carving dish and keep very hot.
Stir the sauce to break up the apples to a soft purée and heat gently, allowing any excess liquid to boil away.
Dip the apple rings in lemon juice, brush with oil and grill lightly.
Decorate the breast of the goose with the apple rings and serve the sauce separately.