The following recipes are a selection of sauces, stuffings, jellies and salads as well as traditional accompaniments to serve with hot and cold dishes.
There are many fruits which may be harvested from the garden or hedgerow and with minimal cost made into fine jellies, sauces or chutney to accompany most types of game.
Although packet stuffings are convenient and quick to make, home-made varieties are far superior and you may ring the changes with alternative ingredients. Stuffings, like a game pie, may be different each time you make one according to what you have available.
There is an endless variety of winter and summer salads which add texture and colour to cold game, either served separately or mixed with finely shredded game meat.
Traditionally, either fried breadcrumbs or game chips are served with roast game.
8tbsp fresh white or brown breadcrumbs
50g (2oz) butter
Heat the butter on a low heat in a frying pan. Add the breadcrumbs and stir continuously until golden brown.
Serve as a decoration to roast birds or on a separate dish.
Although bought crisps or French fries are ideal to serve with game, it is possible to make your own as long as you prepare a few at a time and keep them moving in the hot oil to prevent them from sticking together.
450g (1lb) potatoes
Oil for deep frying
Peel the potatoes and cut into very thin slices. Soak in a large bowl of cold water for 1 hour. Drain and thoroughly dry the chips on a clean tea towel or kitchen paper.
Fry in hot deep oil until golden brown, keeping the chips moving to prevent them from sticking.
Drain well on crumpled kitchen paper and pile on a warm dish. Do not cover the chips or they will lose their crispness.
A frequently neglected fruit of the hedgerow, crab-apples make a delicately flavoured jelly to serve with pheasant, partridge, duck or goose.
2.7kg (61b) crab-apples
1.75 litres (3pt) water
6 cloves
Sugar
Wash the crab-apples and cut into quarters. There is no need to peel or core them. Put into a preserving pan, add the water and cloves. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 11⁄2 hours.
Strain through a jelly bag or clean tea towel, preferably overnight. Do not squeeze the bag or the finished jelly will be cloudy.
Measure the extract and return it to the pan, adding 450g (1lb) sugar for each 600ml (1pt) extract.
Stir while the sugar dissolves and then boil briskly for about 10 minutes or until a ‘jell’ or setting point is reached. Test by putting a very little jelly on a cold plate and allow it to cool. The surface should wrinkle when a finger is pushed across the top of the jelly.
Skim with a slotted spoon and pour into clean warm jars. Cover with wax paper and a lid.
Gather the harvest of the hedgerows to make elderberry jelly, which is rich in flavour and colour, and especially good with grouse, venison and hare.
1.8kg (41b) elderberries
600ml (1pt) water
Sugar
Wash the elderberries, place in a preserving pan and cook in the water until they are soft.
Strain the fruit through a jelly bag or a clean tea towel. Leave until the pulp has finished dripping, preferably overnight. Do not squeeze the bag or the finished jelly will be cloudy.
Measure the extract and return to the pan with 450g (1lb) sugar to each 600ml (1pt) extract.
Stir until the sugar has dissolved, then boil rapidly until a setting point is reached (see crab-apple jelly).
Remove any scum with a slotted spoon and pour into warm clean jars. Cover with wax paper and a lid.
Redcurrant or cranberry jelly may easily be made at home using the previous recipe for the elderberry jelly, substituting redcurrants or cranberries for the elderberries.
Use fresh redcurrants from the garden or ‘pick your own’ from a local soft fruit farm. Fresh cranberries are available in the shops during November and December.
This fragrant yellow pear-shaped fruit makes a fine jelly to serve with hare or goose.
1.3kg (31b) quinces
1.75 litres (3pt) water
Sugar
Cut the quinces into quarters, but do not peel or core them, and place in a preserving pan with the water. Cover the pan and simmer very gently until the fruit is tender. Squash the fruit with a potato masher from time to time to make a soft pulp.
Strain through a jelly bag or clean tea towel and leave overnight. Do not squeeze the bag or the finished jelly will be cloudy.
Measure the extract and return to the pan with 450g (1lb) sugar for each 600ml (1pt) extract.
Stir until the sugar dissolves, then boil rapidly for 10-15 minutes. Test on a cold plate for jelling. As soon as it sets, remove from the heat, skim, pour into warm clean jars and cover immediately.
Although it may be a little sharp, rowan jelly makes a traditional accompaniment to venison and grouse and is also excellent with cold game.
1.3kg (31b) rowanberries
900g (21b) eating apples
1.2 litres (2pt) water
Sugar
Peel, quarter and core the apples and place in a large saucepan with 1.2 litres (2pt) water. Boil for 15-20 minutes or until the fruit is soft. Add the rowanberries and simmer to a pulp. Strain through a jelly bag or clean tea towel and leave overnight. Do not squeeze the bag or the jelly will be cloudy.
Measure the extract and return to the saucepan. Add 450g (1lb) sugar to each 600ml (1pt) extract and boil for about 20 minutes or until a setting point is reached (see crab-apple jelly).
Skim with a slotted spoon and pour into clean warm jars. Cover with wax paper and a lid.
This is very easy to make and may be served with roast pheasant and partridge.
1 small onion stuck with 4 cloves
1 small bay leaf or 1 blade mace
6tbsp fresh white breadcrumbs
300ml (1⁄2pt) milk
Salt and pepper
Knob of butter or 1tbsp top of the milk
Place the onion, bay leaf or mace and milk in a saucepan on a very gentle heat, bring the milk slowly to the boil and then leave to cool.
Remove the onion and bay leaf or mace, add the breadcrumbs and seasoning and return to the heat, stirring until boiling.
Beat in the butter or top of the milk and serve hot.
The perfect accompaniment to smoked trout. To avoid tears when grating the horseradish, use a food processor or blender.
2tbsp grated horseradish
150ml (1⁄4pt) soured cream
1tsp icing sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Blend all the ingredients together and chill for 2 hours before serving.
Serve with hot trout and salmon.
3 egg yolks
1tbsp lemon juice
1tbsp water
Salt and pepper
75g (3oz) hot butter
Place the egg yolks, lemon juice, water, salt and pepper into a blender. Cover and blend for 5 seconds.
Pour the butter in a steady stream through the hole in the lid. Stop blending as soon as all the butter has been added.
Cranberry sauce may be served with any game bird, hare or venison, or added to a casserole.
150ml (1⁄4pt) cold water
225g (8oz) fresh cranberries, washed
100g (4oz) sugar
1tbsp port
Place the water and sugar in a saucepan and heat gently to dissolve the sugar.
Add the cranberries and port and bring to the boil for 2-3 minutes, then simmer gently until the cranberries are reduced to a pulp.
Serve hot or cold.
A spicy sauce to serve with duck or goose.
50g (2oz) prunes
450g (1lb) cooking apples
4tbsp water
1tbsp sugar
1⁄2tsp cinnamon
Cover the prunes with water and leave to soak overnight. Next day, remove the stones and chop the fruit into quarters.
Peel, core and slice the apples. Place in a saucepan with the chopped prunes, cinnamon and water. Simmer gently until the fruit is soft. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved.
Pass the fruit through a sieve or blend to a purée. Serve hot or cold.
Mayonnaise is the classic accompaniment to cold salmon and trout and although only a fraction cheaper to prepare at home, it has a better flavour than many bought varieties.
2 egg yolks
1⁄2tsp French mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
300ml (1⁄2pt) corn oil, olive oil or a mixture of the two
1tbsp lemon juice or white wine vinegar
Put the egg yolks, mustard, salt and pepper into a bowl and beat with a small whisk or wooden spoon. Beat in 2tbsp oil very gradually, a drop at a time. Then stir in 1tsp lemon juice or vinegar.
Gradually beat in the remaining oil and, when thick and creamy, add the rest of the lemon juice or vinegar.
Transfer to a covered container and keep in the warmest part of the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
Should the mayonnaise curdle in the early stages, break a fresh egg yolk into a clean bowl and gradually beat in the curdled mixture a teaspoon at a time.
To 300ml (1⁄2pt) mayonnaise, stir in:
2tbsp finely chopped parsley
1tbsp finely chopped watercress
1tbsp finely chopped chives
Serve with any roast game bird or wildfowl.
Rind and juice of 1 large orange
4tbsp port or red wine
Salt and pepper
1tbsp cranberry or redcurrant jelly
After roasting the birds, remove any excess fat from the pan juices. Add the orange rind and juice, port, salt and pepper and bring to the boil.
Remove the orange rind, stir in the jelly and heat gently.
Serve separately in a gravy-boat.
The following three stuffings are suitable for serving with duck and goose:
225g (8oz) onions
100g (4oz) fresh breadcrumbs
1tbsp chopped fresh sage or 2tsp dried sage
1 small egg, beaten
Salt and black pepper
Put the onions into a small saucepan, cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer until tender. Drain the onions and chop finely.
Combine the onions with the breadcrumbs, sage, salt and pepper, and bind together with the beaten egg.
100g (4oz) dried apricots
100g (4oz) fresh brown breadcrumbs
50g (2oz) chopped walnuts
1tsp finely grated orange rind
Juice of 1 orange
1 egg, beaten
Salt and black pepper
Soak the apricots overnight, then drain and cut into small pieces. Combine the breadcrumbs, walnuts, orange rind and seasoning and bind together with the orange juice and beaten egg.
225g (8oz) pork sausagemeat
2 large cooking apples
100g (4oz) fresh breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper
Peel, core and finely chop the apples. Combine thoroughly with the rest of the ingredients.
Beetroot is known as red beet in the Fens to distinguish it from sugar-beet. Freshly cooked, it combines well with apples and cucumber to make a colourful accompaniment to cold grouse or partridge.
225g (8oz) cooked red beet
225g (8oz) eating apples
225g (8oz) cucumber
4tbsp oil and vinegar dressing
Skin the beetroot and cut into small dice. Peel the cucumber, cut into large slices and then dice. Peel, core and slice the apples.
Mix together with the dressing until the whole salad is a delicate shade of pink.
Excellent with cold game pie or spread on slices of cold game to make a moist filling for rolls or sandwiches.
2.7kg (6lb) cooking apples
900g (2lb) onions
1.2 litres (2pt) malt vinegar
675g (11⁄2lb) soft brown sugar
1 level tbsp salt
1 level tsp pepper
1 level tsp ground ginger
1 level tsp mixed spice
Peel, core and chop the apples. Peel and chop the onions. Place in a large saucepan or preserving pan and add the salt, pepper, ginger, mixed spice and half the vinegar. Simmer until the ingredients are soft. Alternatively, pressure cook for 10 minutes.
Add the sugar and the remaining vinegar and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Continue to simmer until the mixture thickens, stirring occasionally.
Pour the chutney into clean warm jars while still hot. Cover with wax paper and seal with a lid.
Sloes picked after the first frost will have softer skins. Any windfall apples may be used to make this cheese which goes well with any cold game.
1.3kg (31b) windfall apples
900g (21b) sloes
300ml (1⁄2pt) water
Sugar
Wash the apples and cut into quarters. Place in a large saucepan with the sloes and water and simmer until soft.
Press the fruit through a sieve and weigh the purée. Return purée to the pan and add 450g (1lb) sugar for each 450g (1lb) purée. Stir until the sugar dissolves.
Bring to the boil and simmer, stirring occasionally until the cheese is thick. This will take about 1 hour. Pour into clean warm jars and cover.
Watercress and orange salad garnished with black olives is perfect to serve with hot or cold roast duck.
1 large bunch watercress
2 large oranges
50g (2oz) black olives, stoned and sliced
4tbsp olive oil
1tbsp white wine vinegar
1tbsp lemon juice
Salt and pepper
Wash the watercress, shake or spin dry and place in a polythene bag in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Peel the oranges, discarding the skin and pith and slice into rings.
Put the olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice and seasoning into a screw-topped jar and shake until well blended.
Just before serving, arrange the watercress and orange slices in a salad bowl, pour over the dressing and garnish with the sliced olives.
Three winter salads with a crisp crunchy texture to serve with any cold game dish:
100g (4oz) red cabbage
100g (4oz) white cabbage
2 red eating apples
Lemon juice
150ml (1⁄4pt) mayonnaise or natural yoghurt
Salt and pepper
Shred the cabbage finely, discarding any tough outer leaves and the centre core. Place in a salad bowl.
Core the apples, slice thinly and toss in a little lemon juice to preserve the colour. Add to the cabbage.
Season the mayonnaise or yoghurt with a little salt and pepper, and mix thoroughly with the cabbage and apples.
225g (8oz) white cabbage, finely shredded
100g (4oz) grated carrot
1 small green pepper, deseeded, and chopped
50g (2oz) dry roasted peanuts
50g (2oz) raisins
6tbsp oil and vinegar dressing
Thoroughly mix together the shredded cabbage, grated carrot, chopped pepper, nuts and raisins and toss in an oil and vinegar dressing.
450g (1lb) firm red eating apples
1tbsp lemon juice
1tsp castor sugar
2tbsp natural yoghurt
2tbsp mayonnaise
4 stalks celery
50g (2oz) walnuts
Combine the lemon juice, sugar, mayonnaise and yoghurt.
Core and chop the apples and mix with the dressing. Leave for 30 minutes.
Slice the celery and chop the walnuts. Add to the apple mixture and mix thoroughly. Chill before serving
A perfect accompaniment to any game dish, red cabbage needs to be cooked very slowly and is even better prepared in advance and reheated just before serving.
675g (11⁄2lb) red cabbage
225g (8oz) cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced
3tbsp red wine vinegar
3tbsp water
1tbsp soft brown sugar
3 cloves
1⁄2tsp ground cinnamon
1⁄2tsp ground nutmeg
Salt and pepper
1tbsp elderberry jelly
Wash the cabbage and cut into quarters. Remove the hard white stalk and shred the cabbage finely.
Place the cabbage in a large saucepan, add the sliced apples, sugar, vinegar, water, spices, salt and pepper. Cover with a well-fitting lid and cook over a low heat for 3 hours, stirring occasionally. Alternatively, cook in a large casserole in a moderate oven, 160°C (325°F), gas mark 3, for 2 hours.
Just before serving, add the elderberry jelly and toss to glaze the cabbage.
New potatoes are fried golden brown and then baked in the oven until tender.
900g (21b) small new potatoes
50g (2oz) butter
Salt and pepper
Chopped parsley to garnish
Scrape and dry the potatoes, and leave them whole.
Melt the butter in a flameproof casserole. Add the potatoes and cook over a moderate heat until golden brown all over.
Season with salt and pepper, cover the casserole and cook in a moderate oven, 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4, for 25-30 minutes.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving.
Complements any game dish; especially good at Christmas time when you are likely to have some fresh chestnuts and cooked ham in the larder.
450g (1lb) freshly cooked Brussels sprouts
225g (8oz) freshly cooked chestnuts
50g (2oz) chopped ham
25g (1oz) melted butter
2tbsp top of the milk or stock
Black pepper
Mix the cooked sprouts and chestnuts in a casserole.
Pour over the melted butter, top of the milk or stock and sprinkle with black pepper.
Reheat in the centre of a moderate oven, 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4, for 20 minutes.