Oysters with Parmesan-Polenta Crust

I never realized fried oysters were such a uniquely American dish until I served these one day to French friends in Provence. They are oyster mavens and eat them regularly, raw on the half shell. This crunchy cooked version was a revelation to them. The next Christmas, I gave our friends a little deep-fat fryer as a gift, so they can now savor their own fried oysters whenever they like. I love the crunch of the polenta, the richness of the Parmesan, and the touch of spice from the ground red peppers. Serve this with lemon wedges for a touch of acidity, and, if you like, a spicy aïoli or vibrant lime mayonnaise.

6 SERVINGS


       EQUIPMENT: A 3-quart (3 l) heavy-duty saucepan, cast-iron pot, or electric deep-fat fryer fitted with a basket; a deep-fry thermometer or wooden chopstick (optional); a wire skimmer; a tray lined with paper towels.

        4 large eggs, free-range and organic

        1/2 cup (70 g) instant polenta

        1/2 cup (50 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

        1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

        1/2 teaspoon ground Espelette pepper or other mild ground chile pepper

        1 quart (1 l) vegetable oil, such as sunflower oil

        12 freshly shucked oysters

        Fresh lemon wedges, for garnish

        Aïoli Piquant or Lime Mayonnaise, for serving

1.     Place the eggs in a shallow bowl and whisk to blend. In a second shallow bowl, combine the polenta, cheese, salt, and pepper.

2.     Pour the oil into the saucepan or deep-fat fryer to a depth of at least 2 inches (5 cm). If using a deep-fry thermometer to take the temperature of the oil, attach it to the side of the saucepan. Heat the oil over medium heat to 375°F (190°C), or until a wooden chopstick inserted into the oil begins to fizz with bubbles. Do not be tempted to use too high a heat to bring the oil to temperature, as it will be harder to control and keep stable once you arrive at your goal temperature.

3.     When the oil has come to temperature, coat the oysters: Dredge the oysters first in the eggs, allowing any excess to drip back into the bowl, then in the polenta mixture, shaking off any excess. Arrange on a platter. (The oysters should be fried within just a few moments of coating them.)

4.     Fry the oysters in batches, about three at a time, until the breading is crisp, firm, and deep golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with the wire skimmer and transfer to the paper towels to drain. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and aïoli or lime mayonnaise.

WINE MATCH: Sample these briny oysters with a Picpoul de Pinet, a favorite white from the Picpoul grape grown not far from the Mediterranean. The wine loves to partner with seafood, matching the iodine-rich flavors.