Emulsified Sauces

Master Recipe

Aïoli Piquant (Spicy Garlic Mayonnaise)

Thick, golden, unctuous aïoli is a theme song I live to sing. We make it regularly in the summertime, using it as a little dip for raw vegetables, slathering it on toasted homemade sourdough bread, teaming it up with grilled, steamed, fried fish, shellfish, even oysters, such as Steamed Shrimp in Saffron Sauce, Crispy Golden Squid, and Oysters with Parmesan-Polenta Crust. Go wild here—it’s a holiday food!

While this is a fairly simple process, it is easy for the emulsion to break if a few basic rules aren’t followed.

Tips

       •   Because mayonnaise and aïoli contain raw eggs, use the freshest possible eggs to avoid any food contamination.

       •   The ingredients must be at room temperature. If the oil has been stored in a cool place, bring it to room temperature by pouring it into a glass and standing it in a bath of warm water. If this step is not followed and the emulsion splits, a few drops of warm water added to the mixture can bring it back together.

       •   In the beginning, the oil must be added in a very, very slow trickle or it will not emulsify with the egg yolk.

       •   If the egg yolk appears on the small side, you may need to double the amount of yolk or reduce the amount of oil in the recipe.

       •   If the emulsion begins to separate after refrigeration, bring it up to room temperature, then beat vigorously until the emulsion comes back together.

       •   If the aïoli is too thick, you can add a little water.

       •   To fix a broken emulsion: Place an additional large egg yolk in a separate bowl, whisk vigorously, and then slowly add the separated aïoli or mayonnaise to the egg yolk, whisking continuously until the mixture comes together.

MAKES 1/2 CUP (125 ML)


       EQUIPMENT: A mortar and pestle, a mini food processor, or a standard food processor fitted with a small bowl.

        1/2 cup (125 ml) mild-flavored extra-virgin olive oil, at room temperature (see Note)

        3 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled, halved, green germ removed if present, and minced

        1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

        1 large egg yolk, free-range and organic, at room temperature (see Note)

IF MIXING BY HAND

1.     Pour boiling water into a large mortar to warm it (see Note); discard the water and dry the mortar. Place the oil in a measuring cup or in a bottle with a pouring spout. Place the garlic and salt in the mortar and mash together evenly with the pestle to form as smooth a paste as possible. (The fresher the garlic, the easier it will be to crush.)

2.     Add the egg yolk. Stir, pressing slowly and evenly with the pestle, always in the same direction, to thoroughly blend the garlic paste and yolk. Continue stirring, gradually adding just a few drops of the oil, mixing until thoroughly incorporated. Do not add too much oil in the beginning or the mixture will not emulsify. As soon as the mixture begins to thicken, add the remaining oil in a slow, steady stream, mixing continuously until thickened. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the flavors to infuse. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

IF USING A FOOD PROCESSOR

1.     In the food processor, combine the garlic, egg yolk, and salt and process until well blended.

2.     With the motor running, very slowly add several tablespoons of the oil, processing until the mixture begins to thicken and scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. With the motor running, slowly add the remaining oil in a slow, steady stream, stopping to scrape down the bowl as necessary. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the flavors to blend. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

VARIATION

CHILE-LIME MAYONNAISE

Add 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice and 1 teaspoon ground Espelette pepper or other ground chile.

NOTE: This will help encourage a stable emulsion, since oil and egg yolk bind together more successfully at room temperature.