The Italian classic chicken cooked under a brick—pollo al mattone—spawned the inspiration for my fifth cookbook, Trattoria. It is simply a recipe for a whole chicken, split down the back and pressed flat, cooked whole, and pressed tight to the skillet, held down by a heavy weight, usually bricks, or mattone. The result is a super-crispy, moist, and tender bird that requires little tending and no more seasoning than salt and pepper. The chicken can be cooked on a gas or charcoal grill with a lid or on top of the stove in a skillet. Whichever way you prepare the bird, it’s easy, quick, and totally rustic and satisfying. Seared Eggplant Caponata, Green Bean and Artichoke Salad with Hazelnut Vinaigrette, or Roasted Heirloom Carrots and Scallions with Cumin-Yogurt Dressing make excellent sides for this chicken.
4 TO 6 SERVINGS
EQUIPMENT: Poultry shears; a gas grill with a lid; a flat, cast-iron grill, skillet, or 2 bricks; an instant-read thermometer (optional); a warmed serving platter.
1 chicken (about 3-1/2 pounds/1.6 kg), free-range, at room temperature
Extra-virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat the grill to its highest heat (650°F/345°C).
2. Place the bird, breast side down, on a flat surface. With the poultry shears, cut the bird lengthwise along the backbone. Open it flat, pressing down with the heel of your hand to flatten the carcass completely. The bird should be as flat as possible to ensure even cooking.
3. Rub the chicken all over with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the bird, breast side down, on the grill. Place the grill, skillet, or bricks on top to weigh down the bird. Close the lid. Grill until the underside is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove the lid and weights. Using tongs so that you do not pierce the bird, turn the chicken over. Replace the weights, close the lid, and grill for 15 minutes more. To test for doneness, pierce the thigh with the tip of a knife to make sure that the juices run clear, or use the instant-read thermometer to check that the internal temperature of the flesh has reached 165°F (75°C).
4. Arrange the chicken at an angle against an inverted shallow bowl set on a cutting board, to allow the juices to flow down into the breast meat, giving a juicier and more flavorful result. Season again with salt and pepper. Tent the chicken lightly with aluminum foil and leave to rest for at least 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes.
5. Carve the chicken and arrange it on the warmed platter. Serve with a vegetable side dish.
NOTE: To cook the chicken in a skillet, use a vessel large enough to hold the chicken flat (about a 12-inch/30 cm skillet), heat about 1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil in the skillet until shimmering, then cook the chicken according to the instructions above.
WINE MATCH: I love to serve chicken with a light and fruity red. Try a Morgon from the Beaujolais region of France.